hello everyone, tatyana gevarkyan and the nekomshits are with you. today we are talking about the relationship between cinema and fashion, recalling the most iconic images of film stars from soviet films. costume designer natalya konevskaya is with me in the studio. soviet cinema is a treasure trove of cult films.

so, you know, with the already beginning glance of a costume designer i scanned every time i admired, was amazed, since childhood, so i had such an incredible opportunity to observe them, who did you like most in your everyday image, so let's say, well, anastasia vertinskaya has always been absolutely incredible, anastasia vertinskaya, they called her the soviet audre hebborn, elegant, sophisticated aristocratic appearance. she conveyed beautiful images not only on the screen, but in everyday life. i was amazed then that she wore flat shoes, which we all love so much now, with long skirts, men's boots, always some interesting headdresses, hats, caps, berets, and there was another amazing moment, she already wore one earring long, oh so yes, she was an absolute trainer, she overtook the fashion, wore these... huge jackets with wide

shoulders, a long coat to the floor, something that became fashionable in moscow, it seems to me, by the end of the nineties, only if not in the two thousandth? when i was going to shoot today, i talked on the phone with my mother, she asked me what the shoot would be about, i said: we will discuss soviet films, my dad worked in the field of cinema, and we lived in other countries, he represented russian cinema there soviet delegations came very often with movie actors, and my mother says to me, well, you remember lyudmila.

there are, as it were, two images, there is an everyday image, there is an image of a star, very often they get tired of popularity, of recognition, on the contrary, they want to hide. allamidova, she was different in that i didn’t recognize her every time, also being a little girl, when she entered the elevator, i thought who the neighbor was, and this is allamido, that is, she knew how to somehow hide her stardom, with this, if you look at her photographs, look at some chronicles from festivals, of course she is... incredibly stylish, stellar, with amazing posture, but one of the film stars’ ability to transform themselves in life is to look like ordinary women so that they don’t get recognized when they don’t want to. well, by the way, today, yes, today all famous actresses, they try to hide either behind dark glasses, or dress modestly enough in everyday life so that no one recognizes them, then it was the same, of course i didn’t know and didn’t see everyone, but what i saw, it seems to me that it was the same. it's one thing to go in the morning

somewhere to a rehearsal in the theater, without makeup, also wearing dark glasses, hiding behind some kind of headdress, and it’s another thing to go to the premiere somewhere in the evening, where they should recognize you about your image and everyone should talk. let's talk a little about film images, from your childhood, whose images do you remember most, for example, lyudmila gurchenko, what are the most memorable images for you? of course, everyone probably wants to talk about the carnival night, but my favorite movie with it is just like this the calmest one, probably, is the film 5 evenings, there is a very interesting transformation with her, she is at the beginning, as far as i remember, in some robe appears in these curlers, with some kind of scarf on her head, so completely nondescript , by the end of the film by some very simple means, she simply looks 20 years younger, lyudmila gurchenko was a real and...

it was she who popularized the famous christian dior new look silhouette among soviet fashionistas. after the release of the film station for two, women began buying piles of magazines with patterns. sew a dress and curl your hair like the heroine of the picture, but what do you think, these outfits of a carnival night, they were still inspired by the costume designers from the house of dior, definitely, i don’t remember, i think it was 1956, yes, that is , almost 10 years have passed since the moment when christian dior proposed this wasteful nude with a huge amount of fabric that was spent on a dress after the military, and changed the entire feminine look. silhouette and even somehow returned to women the corsets they had so laboriously and with such it was a pleasure to take pictures of yourself at the beginning of the century, suddenly here it is again in the tens, everyone is being pulled into a corset, this is a wasp waist, it also came to the soviet union a little later, but this is such an understandable desire of women after the military

to look beautiful, feminine, well, this is a very popular silhouette today, me i blow off specks of dust and even a couple of times i take it somewhere put it on. well, in general, somehow the christiana deor brand itself does not promote these silhouettes ; they practically do not change from season to season, the length changes, the texture of the fabric changes, but this look is always present in their collections. now everyone very often looks at soviet cinema and... the era of the seventies and eighties, and they say that modern collections of famous world brands are very reminiscent of an office romance or a photo of lyudmila gurchenko in a suit, it’s just a missoni suit, where they found outfits in at that time for cinema, were these some

well-known brands or was it made to order, how did it all happen? well, there weren’t really any well-known brands back then, then naturally it was all sewn together, it was all costume designers who collected fabrics and found patterns. in fact, these are practically the first fashionable costumes, because if you watch movies of the twenties, thirties, even forties, here is lyubov orlova, for example, she is considered the first soviet diva, yes, but try to remember some of her images. lyubov orlova, diva, cinema of the thirties-fifties, golden curls with cold waves, emphasis on the lips and graceful high eyebrows. she created her image together with her husband and director grigory alexandrov, inspired by actress marlene dittrich and the dream factory. fur coats, shiny evening dresses, and of course, elegant hats. but lyubov orlova is often compared to marlene dittrich in her image. in terms of image, yes, light curls, these thin

eyebrows, red lips. the clothes in the movies at that time were practically dirty, because, uh, well somehow, ideology was probably more important, it was more important... to show that the heroine, a real soviet woman, she thinks about the public, and not about some kind of personal thing, and in general all the remnants of the bourgeois style, all this was more likely among the negative heroin than the positive ones. natasha, if we talk about actresses, about film directors, how sexuality was broadcast in cinema back then in soviet times, and how they were today, sexy and fashionable and somehow so stylish.

there are some films, probably too, here is the first image of a positive heroine, but when this fashionable, incredibly stylish, this is still the same lyudmila gurchenko in the film carnival night, with these new look dresses, like this, not at all soviet, but at the same time she is an incredibly positive, truly soviet heroine, whom everyone wants to appreciate, 5 minutes, 5 minutes, your hours.

then there was another move to show fashionable, stylish, sexy characters, but these are historical films, oddly enough, censorship checks what is being filmed, fairy tales are being filmed, films are being made about the future and about the past, that’s in everything in everything there are a lot of sexy heroines in this spectrum, it’s natural milady, margarita terikhova, in general one of the sexiest, by the way, film director, here’s another name, and if you look at the way she’s dressed, there’s nothing there... nothing from the era of louis the thirteenth, and a lot of it comes from the fashion of the seventies, from some kind of fashion that

could not be shown, i think, in soviet cinema, she is straight up a hippie, because even such a boho style, she has badfort, tight trousers tucked in, this is a shock of flowing blonde hair , fashionable arrows, well, that is, everything is there, yes, they directly made her a modern, sexy, very cool girl, another one, by the way, one... being a diva and such a role model for many , she never played modern heroines at all, if you list it like that, she started almost from childhood , oysters and sails, amphibian man, war and peace, ianna karenina, she is everywhere, either a heroine from the past or generally non-russians like aphelia, all her heroines, they are all somehow shakespearean, so historical... but at the same time there is film nameless star, where she appears again in white, in this dress of fashionable

slackers, some furs, well, everything that a soviet woman cannot wear, those same curly blond hairs, that is, it seems like a historical heroine, but the fashion seems to be modern, it’s not dainty , today, together with costume designer natalya konevskaya , we are sorting out the wardrobes of movie characters with...

because there are no fashion brands, shortages, few stores, and the only thing you can look up to is these films that are shown all over the country, in all cinemas, and of course, all women then try to repeat the styles of these outfits. here are some other iconic things you can remember from movies that have become commonplace in modern life, such as a haircut...

you will notice that these are things from the early seventies. the images of natalia selezneva in the film ivan

vasilyevich changes his profession created a real sensation among soviet fashionistas, and not surprisingly, selezneva’s outfits in this film were designed by fashion designer vyacheslav zaitsev. now, if we talk about how fashion is related to cinema, then there weren’t many moteliers, but vyacheslav zaitsev worked on this film, and here you can also see that these are silhouettes from... famous designers of that time collaborated with cinema, there was a fashion house in which these models were generally developed, here is vyacheslav zaitsev, i think this is the most famous name, of course, there were many fashion designers, many designers, but somehow fashion and cinema at that time were separated, and costume designers

came either from the theater, or there were production designers and costume designers, in the same carnival nights, so interesting.

put on yourself, do you remember this story 2 years ago, when brad pitt came out dressed as lyudmila prokofievna, no, this is on the red carpet, i know that this is always compared to all sorts of prada appearances and brown suits, but i think that if put them side by side, it will be just heaven and earth. natasha, how would you dress a business lady today if they were filming a remake of an office romance, probably in thinner jeans?

carry mass market items, that is , they must be expensive brands, have you encountered this in your work? no, i think it is rather the work of stylists, not costume designers, because in the movies, well, you can’t dress everyone in couture clothes, because well , to begin with, the heroines are different, if this girl always plays the wives of oligarchs, then it’s possible, but then she very much limits the possibilities of roles, but that’s exactly what i heard...

for example, i was terribly worried about how i would run into such superstars, and i haven’t met actresses who are lighter and more open to experimentation for a very long time, and that’s all this generation of soviet cinema stars, they, maybe because they are not spoiled, maybe because they already have such a huge life experience, they never look at labels, they never look at what, oh, i won’t wear this, this is some kind of fabric, they ... they immediately try on clothes as if they were the image of a character, that is, they understand that it is not them, but they were given the opportunity to reincarnate, look, we have a lot of famous ones.

i don't know, audrey hebron and jvanshi, if there wasn't that little black dress because of breakfast at tiffany's, there would be audrey hebron, audrey hebron, well, she would be a wonderful, talented actress, but she would be such a super diva, which everyone still quotes this image with black glasses, with a mantuk and a long dress, this is the totality, it seems to me that this is some kind of luck, but what other images are often used, and marilyn monroe?

but it could be presented in different ways, it works very well with it. natalie portman, you can say that she is a diva, on the red carpet, yes, in life, look at the photographs of the paparazzi - this is an ordinary woman with children. in ordinary clothes, that is, from few foreign actresses today can really be called a diva, because thanks to social networks we often see their everyday life, not only foreign ones,

all of us too, any beautiful actress who knows how to show herself and become a diva on the red carpet, she is still in everyday life , still appears on her social networks in jeans and t-shirts, but this is not that it does not make her a diva, this is not good, not bad, it’s just that life has become so more open. roles in the theater, with roles in films, they don’t have time for these interesting everyday images, it’s more like some kind of blogger story, and a modeling story, and in general

, nowadays it’s already very commercial, because all the interesting images that we see were invented, i don’t know, by the hadit sisters or whoever else the kardashian family , is this still all done in order to sell what the soviets wore? actress and how is this reflected in modern cinema? we discuss the images of soviet film stars with costume designer natalya konevskaya. it seems that before these were the actresses who were called divas, they played very different roles, lyudmila gurchenko, vertinskaya, and well , almost all of our actresses, they had very different roles, they could be some kind of provocative beauties and village women. and today modern actresses, they more often become hostages of one image in cinema, why do we have so many actresses today, a wide

range is not used, do you want me to now start criticizing the industry in which i work, no, of course, there are images change, no, i think that we have changed a lot elena yakovleva for the image of shpaklyak, in general we had such a wonderful joke, i don’t know if it was allowed or not. very by the way, one of the very quoted images is all these heroines, there is such a famous photograph where the four of them are sitting at the beginning, and in almost

every film about the eighties. there is some story with some kind of prostitutes or some bar for foreigners, they are sitting there somewhere in the background, in general, i very often pick up this photo, very often look at it in order to create some similar images, it seems to me that many, at least my generation , all the schoolgirls had similar photos from their prom, because all these hairstyles, fishnet tights are also that... today for some are you inspired by modern films from vintage images? and i think so, especially because all my films are mixed and i’m doing a historical project, then some kind of modern project, when you look at these historical costumes and images from films, then suddenly you rethink, you think, this is the same thing, this is the same thing we wear now,

and so... where it came from, that is, it is all the time such an endless process of understanding the origins of who was inspired by what, and new images are born from this . well, fashion is really very cyclical, the same office romance very much resonates with modern collections, for example miu-miu, but at the same time it is supplemented with some bright, provocative details, for example, on top it ’s mymra’s suit, below it’s these panties embroidered with rhinestones, yes that's great absolutely. i wonder how this will go to the people with rhinestones, i’m waiting for it, by the way, what do you think of this trend? i, for example, really like it, i ’m waiting for when, when it will be really possible, but there was also a story before, for example, my mother, when i was studying at the institute, she says that she was the only one, one of the first to have jeans, uh-huh, yes, then it was considered not very decent for a girl to wear jeans, it was just so daring, in general, well, since i ’m now making a film about the olympics, it

seems to me that this one... world, a huge number of people came to soviet russia soviet and there was such a penetration of a new culture of everything fashionable, how it influenced soviet fashion, it had a very strong influence, i see this from all the references and from photographs, that there was a direct transition, but in general there was a transition from the style of the seventies into the style of the eighties, and these are completely

different silhouettes.

i’m wearing this too, these are tracksuits with bomber jackets, leggings, short shorts, sneakers, sneakers, we’ve never worn sneakers before, we had natalya varley an ambassador of such a sporty style, yes, yes, but she was still kind of on a hike at that moment, of course, this and this was also such a breakthrough for that time and it seems to me a special kind of sexuality, this plaid shirt, tight trousers, yes these sneakers, anyway, here she is in a skirt and a blouse, but i wonder what kind of one she has there? well, definitely not sneakers, but what kind of shoes could there be? shoes with heels, small heels or pumps without heels, this is the maximum that they allowed themselves with skirts, sneakers - this was absolutely purely sports shoes for sports. and what other trends came to us with the eighties? trousers with a high waist, behind pinches, that is, the flares go away and bananas gradually appear, wide shoulders,

after... these narrow shirts that are tapered, behind the pinches at the back, just like that , straight silhouette, but in general - this is a style that came to us from the eighties, it’s difficult to find vintage things in general now, on the one hand, every year it becomes more and more difficult, well , not even more difficult, but let’s say, more expensive, because that when i started these clothes of the eighties, they were not valued at all and you could trade all these things for 100 to 200 rubles at any loshin market, now these men’s suits from the bolshevik factory are considered fashionable unisex style they are sold by bloggers and they simply cost zero more. tell me, what else is now really very expensive on the resale market, well, besides, say, bags of famous brands, yeah, vintage jewelry, probably yes, and you know, oddly enough, i was faced with the fact that all the soviet

symbols, real soviet things are very expensive, t-shirts with an olympic bear, tracksuits, these are the olympic jerseys, real wool ones with the inscription ussr, original, not altered. modern copies, exactly from that time, it’s very expensive, watch all sorts of films, especially tv series about some schoolchildren about young people, until the end of the eighties everyone walked around with these bags with the inscription olympics with an olympic bear, the film is relatives, by the way, right there it’s just that every image somehow quotes the olympic symbolism, that is, this is symbolism that has become somehow very iconic for the decade. but today it turns out that in the cinema we have seen almost everything, that there are no forbidden themes or stylistics, as today this

sexuality of an actress is broadcast, but this is clearly not through revealing clothes, only through charisma, just getting into the casting, because i’m sure that no one can predict a story like stone, who crosses her legs in a white dress and then quotes this one for 20 years the image as the sexiest, as the most daring, although it would seem, and of the modern russian actresses, who would you name, as the sexy ones now, such a dangerous one is coming, you know, maybe you didn’t remember someone, here’s someone... then you named someone, it’s clear that you are all of them now, of course, i can remember with pleasure the entire caste of kept women, i believe that... uh, it’s like this magic happened there, when everything coincided, the images, the actress, and the casting script coincided, and of course, there is a lot sex in every image, but dasha moroz, she

’s generally a very good dramatic actress, but it was after the kept women that i got the feeling that for many directors she became a hostage to this sexy role, well, i think that this is her decision, we will see her again in different roles, who else? i really love all the images of marina zudina, but this is precisely due to charisma, but due to charisma, because putting all the same things on some other actress, without her appearance, without her posture, and nothing will work. thank you great, natasha, it was very interesting, thank you, i wish you as much interesting, vibrant work from different eras as possible and , of course, success in your difficult work of finding the right, necessary things, i realized that this is really very... a very difficult task, it’s true, you don’t know what to watch, the classics of soviet cinema will be a win-win option, and of course, all the episodes are not bastard and the podcast lab, which you can find on the first website.

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