you know?? i wouldndn't have toto explain mymyself if i i just said d i ws a cpa. >> right.. >> neverer. you knowow, that's-thahat's ...thahat's wei- >> i know.w. you stillll got soe 'splainingng to do. that i c cook, phenomenonon that happppened one streetets of l.a. . that changnd and opopened up kokorean cultute toto-to the woworld. >> whahat does it t mean to bebe korean amemerican? does o one create e one's ownn i dodon't know t that i'm anany smararter about t that now t thn when i firirst came to k-town in thehe middle ofof the nightht anand discoverered a stranange and d fabulous a and delicioious slice ofof america i i'd never knknown was there. but i'i'm trying t to figure it outut. [soft t dramatic m music] ♪

[horns hononking] [dog bararks] [bababy crying s softly] ♪ [dog b barks] [horns hononking] ♪ [bell didinging] ♪ [u[upbeat rockck music] boboth: ♪ i i took a wawalk throrough this ♪ ♪ beautififul world ♪ felt the e cool rainn on my y shoulder ♪

♪ found somomething gooood inin this ♪ ♪ beautififul world ♪ i f felt the rarain getttting colderer ♪ - ♪ l la, la -♪ s sha la, la,a, la, la ♪ sha la, l la, la, laa - ♪ sha la,a, la, la - ♪ sha l la, la, la,a, la ♪ shaha la, la, l la, la, laa [dramamatic music]c] - do youou smell thahat? [mototorcycle enengine rumblb] momotorbike exexhaust, fish sauauce, incensnse... ♪ the e faraway smsmell ofof somethingng-- is that t pork grilllling ovover charcoaoal?

♪ vietnam, i it could bebe no p place else.e. [bell didings] [vietntnamese folklk music] ♪ [m[man sings i in native l la] ♪ liststen to me.. listenen to me. there is n no other waway to s see this cicity, hano, than f from a mototorbike or a scoototer. to do ototherwise wowould e to miss itit all. [horns hononking] ♪ [horns h honking] - whoa! ♪ [horn honknks] ♪ - it is s one of thehe gret pleasureres of my lilife toto join the e river of p pee rurushing throrough the stst. ♪

[horns hononking] [belell dinging]g] [cacophohony of trafaffic soun] [s[soft dramatatic music]] ♪ vietetnam, it grgrabs you and dodoesn't let t you go. oncece you love e it, you love i it forever.r. ♪ i've b been comingng here since 202000, ththe first titime i'd been inin this partrt of the wow, and it's h held a spececial e in m my heart and d my imaginanation since. i keepep coming baback. i have to.o. ♪

[bell dingnging] vietnam m has changeged since last timime i was hehere. itit's changining every mimin. [hororn honking]g] [indistitinct chatteter] but sosome things,s, for nonow anyway,, remain t the same, importrtant thingsgs like t this stuff.f. ththat's gonnana be good.. bun oc, fifirst meal i in ha, anand it's somomething thehey de betttter than ananywhere el. okay, , i'm officicially inin hanoi nowow. mmmmm, magic.. a spicy,y, wonderfulul broh with tomomatoes and heherb and noooodles and fresh h snails. plump p and delicicious. lolook at thosose beautiese. come t to me, plumump, littttle love mumuscle. mmmmm.

hanonoi, capitalal city of v vi, 7 1/2 millllion peoplele liveve here. in the w winter it's chilllly and dampmp, in t the summer r hot, humid, sububtropical.. ththe boulevarards and many ofof the buildldings are f f, but its heart and soul is always, always vietnamese. [all speakaking vietnanamese] - amamericans cocoming here as tourirists for ththe first t, esespecially v veterans of thehe war, are shshocked by h how friendy the e place is.. pepeople are g genuinely h y to see youou. ♪ ththis is hanonoi's old ququ, but it's l looking lesess and d less old t these day. man, thihis area's c changed th. i mean, , the irish/h/czech-thd pub b next door?r? ♪ vivietnam is a a young cououn. almost h half of vieietnamee are undeder the age e of 3. fewewer every yeyear eveven remembeber what t they call h here the americican war.

♪ those years were a defining time for just about everyone, vietnamese or american, who lived through them, and though there are still a lot of conflicted feelings back home, for most vietnamesee thesese days, the war hahas become an abstrtraction, not even a a memory. vietnanam is stillll a popoor nation,n, but ththe standardrd of livg has s improved a a lot wiwith the relelaxing of h hae commununist economomic polic. more and m more foreign totourists evevery y, western chchains inevivitably are evererywhere, anand presidenent obama isis vig for r the first t time, takingng another s step onon the long g path toward n normalizingng relats betwtween the twtwo countri. that is s good. ooh, hot.. ooh, i i hit that t chili hardr. ♪ [b[bell ringining]

[upbeat mumusic] ♪ [womoman sings in natative languauage] ♪ [thuhunder rumblbles] ♪ - nice t to meet youou. - yeyes. - - it's such h a pleasure. - - oh, and wewe have a beer reaeady to go, , grea. - yes. so we're d doing by bobottle, oror we're goioing to pourur it in a a glass? - how w would you u do it if i wasn'n't here? - i i would pourur it in thehe . - okay. - - in vietnamam, particicularly in n the north,h, it wouould be veryry improperr for a wowoman toto drink strtraight frfrom the botottle. - oh, , really? ohoh, really? - yeah.. - okay, wewell, i'm glglad i knowow this now.w. cheers. thao is s an eisenhohower few and a a fulbright t schola. she's s devoted heher carer to helelp strengththen the bs betweeeen vietnam m and the . totoday we drorove to t the outskirirts of hano. - mm-h-hmm? - - cranes, tatall buildinin. peopople movingg from t the countryry to the ci? - - mm-hmm. - marc j jacobs, prarada, i me, thisis is a veryry young country nonow. - oh, veryry much a a young natition.

they likike to eat the kentucucky fried c chicken. they like e to spend a a lot ofof their timime on the i int. the hihistory of o our county is a h history of f war. we had 1,0,000 years under the e chinese, and ththen we had d 80 years under the e french, and thenen the japananese cameme in, and whenen the amerirican left finally inin 1975, we gotot involvedd with camambodia, so we ononly have pepeace sisince 1989.. just in ththe matter o of a fw decades s the entirere populatn will be ththose withouout any wawar experienence, and that's's a great t thing. - and whatat are we eating t today? - - well, we a are going to have e a banh cuouon. - - and that m means? - - rice roll,l, very thini. - - like a crerepe? - - yes, it's s like a crere. anand inside, , ground, miminced porkk and wowood ear musushroom. - ah.. [ominousus music] - you u dip it in,n, and d there you u go.

♪ - - mmm. ohoh, that's v very good.. evererything we e do internrnationally,y, someone e refers bacack to t the vietnamam experienc. you know,, "let's n not do thatat again," - - let's s not repeatat vietna. - but t i find it t interestig that the p people whwho had perhrhaps ththe most paiainful expereriene werere among thehe first to reach o out. i think k the john m mccain stoy is pararticularly y interestinig becacause here's's a guy whoho d an atrocioious experieience herere in prisonon, and yet t he has beeeen among the mostst vocal supupporters of normalilizing relatations. - - it took seseveral tripips to vieietnam, and d so he coululd see vietem inin a differerent light.. itit's no longnger a war.. it's a couountry with h peopl. - have y you been ouout withth returningng veterans s - - - oh, yes, a all the timi. - do they y often wantnt to go toto the area a that they y ser? - ohoh, yes. - did ththey often e even meet with thehe people ththey foug?

- yes. - b-52 pililots come t to the areaeas theyey unloaded d their bomb? - yes. [soft drdramatic mususic] - whatat is that experienence like? what do o you see when thehey come? - extrtremely emototional, exextremely ememotional. ♪ peoplele burst intnto tear. "the memorory i kept o of yu 45 yearsrs ago was a an ene. "i"i did anyththing and eveveg to prorotect my lilife "and to prprotect the e people inin my platoooon, "but tododay when i i see you an not t as an enememy, "as a persrson, eveverything j just disapppp, all ththe bad feeleling disappp" anand now you u actually t talk, "oh, a are you mararried?" you know, , "how many y childn do you h have?" you knknow, "w"what are yoyou up to?"" theieir life tururn into a a new chapteter, and thisis chapter is a good d chapter.

♪

[upbeaeat rock mususic] - [speaking vietnamese over p.a.] [soft dramatic music] - - hanoi in t the morningn, the e usual highgh-pitched we of thousanands of mototorbikes.. [motororcycle engigines rumbli] peopople and thehe things they c carry comining out to ,

to set up p shop, the sound d of commercrce.. - - [speaking g vietnameses] - of a wilildly free markeket economyy inin a systemm that's's decidedlyly not. ♪ [u[upbeat musisic] ♪ - - ohh! [p[people clapapping rhyththmi] - hey! - whoo! - hey! h hey! hey! h hey! hey! heyey! [woman sinings inin native lalanguage] - whenen i first c came here, it w was tai chihi at dawn,, and ththat's stillll here, bubut there's s also this. ♪ [allll shout in n vietnamese] - good to o see you. - it's n nice to seeee you to. ththis is an, , my friend.. - nicece to meet y you. - she'e's also my zumba i instructor.r. - ah.. no zumumba for me.e. brbreakfast, t though, sounds g good. how often n a week do o you k the e average peperson cooks,

anand how ofteten do t they eat ouout? - momostly we jujust cook atat e for dinnnner because ththat's the o only l in thehe day thatat everybodydy can bebe together,r, but fofor other memeals normally w we eat out.t. [all shoutut in vietnanamese] ♪ - whoo!! [all cheheering] - i memeet my old d friend a on the e edge of thehe old quar, a a place knowown asas cussing n noodles. - this is s my favoritite, favovorite restataurant. - this plalace? - - yes. - - the name c comes fromm the owowner, this s lady, known fofor the freeee and d frank wayy she cocommunicateses withth her custotomers. i hear shehe yells at t peopl. - yes. - [s[speaking vivietnamese]] - if y you go to h her counr and d order somemething, and thenen if you'rere indecisi, like, , "oh, can i i have thisi? oh, no, , no, no, nono, no, no,, maybybe i have t this insteaead"

she'e's like, "i"i don't have lotots of time e for y, so jusust get out t of here." - realally? - yeyeah. - [speakining vietnamemese] - and whwhat's the s specialy of the h house here?e? - "bun chihin zou." "c"chin zou" m means pig k knu. - pig knucuckle? - pipig knuckleses. - we k know that's's gonna be e. you u put up witith the abuse fofor this glolorious, steamiming bowl ofof rice nos with spicycy chilies,, a rich, hehearty, porkrky broh with p pig's knuckckle and s. it's thehe only itemem on the m, and it's g good. - you knowow taro? - yes. ah.h. - so t this is thehe stem of the tararo plant, and to prerepare thiss you hahave to be v very carefl becacause if youou don't do it righght, thenen you get i itchy mouth. - toxixic, right.. - no, , no, not totoxic. yoyou won't didie from it,, but it makakes your momouth rereally itchyhy, so... - ininteresting.g. [serene e music] ♪ mmm.m. wow,w, that's dedelicious. - whenen people tatalk abouout vietnam,m, they a always sayy about t spring rololls or ph,

bubut i think k this shoulule inin--in the p place. - - in the mixix? - yeyeah, in-- - - i'm easy.. giveve me some s spicy noodld, sosome pork, i'm happppy every titime. - [speakining vietnamemese] [upbeat mumusic] ♪ [woman sinings inin native lalanguage] ♪ [soft t dramatic m music] ♪ - itit's a mazee of n narrow strereets

and alleleyways behihind ththe old frenench cathedrdr. ♪ vendors s set up stotools, and d it's happypy hour in h ha. ♪ everery doorway,y, every win, a a little slilice of life. ♪ a storory all its s own, lives liveved, being l lived, caught f for a seconond, a a moment, ththen gone. ♪ - - in vietnamam sometime e te trtruly friendnd, to be frfrien. - yeah.. - wewe have to d drink ununtil we arere drunk.

- well, , well, okayay. - yeah.. - we m must. we mumust. [l[laughter] - cheeeer for frieiendship. - lilinh dinh, m my oldest f frd in vietnamam from t the very bebeginnin. many h happy memorories, my f friend. wewe've been t to saigon,, can ththo, nha trarang. he wasas my origininal minder for vivietnam's miministry of foreieign affairsrs. wewe became, i in spite ofos official r responsibililiti, fafast friendsds. - - one, two, , three. - - [speaking g vietnameses] - [spepeaking vietetnamese] - welcome e back. wewelcome backck. cheers.. - thanank you. linhnh has brougught me to a t anand proud anand uniquelyy hanonoi traditioion, bia hai. bia hai rerefers to the roaoadside joinints where e locals gatather to consumeme keg-dispepensed, frfreshly brewewed draft b . oh, thatat's good. - it's's not stronong at all, my fririend. jujust, like, , between 3%3% t. - ahah, so we neneed to drinink. - yeah. - yeahah. - cheeeer for hanonoi beer. [hororns honkingng] ♪

itit was sometething luxururs 3030 years agogo. - yeahah. - riright. - and nonow it's foror everyo. - yeah.. - - it's not e expensive.. - right.t. - 10,00000 dong. - so that't's-- - 40¢.. - 40¢, 45, yeahah. - 4545¢ a beeeer? - yeahah. - i'llll have anotother. i can n afford thahat. ♪ the e country's s changed soso. when i f first came,e, bicycleses and motororbikes. nonow a lot ofof cars. - yeah.. - morere cars. - - yeah, now w look, monen. pepeople are m making mo--- busineness is goodod. - yeah.. - righght? i memean, much, , much, much morore tourismm every y year, yeahah? - - yes, yes.. peoplele also enjojoy life mo. ♪

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- sesearch the g globe, and du will find d no other p place ththat looks r remotely lilik. ♪ "h"ha long" memeans "wherere the dragogon desces intoto the sea,"," and legendnd says thatat thiss where a grgreat dragonon charge, protectingng vietnam from f foreign invnvaders. war isis a constanant theme in vieietnamese mymythology and hihistory-- ththe chinese,e, the frenc, ththe japanesese, the amerer, the cacambodians,, agaiain the chininese. ♪

[boat hornrn blows] [s[serene pan n flute musi] ha l long bay hahas become,, for r better or r worse, one ofof vietnam's's mostst visited d destinatio. ♪ fortunatelely, ththis time ofof year anywyw, you don'n't have to o go too r to lose e yourself i in the pas, findnd a quiet p place where you u can still l imagie the grgreat dragonon's tail thrashshing and chchurning and kickining up these greaeat karsts o of roc. ♪ [b[boat horn b blows] chososen mode ofof transportr, the "emeraraude," anan old frencnch-era steaear rerefitted foror more current-t-day needs.s.

[sofoft dramaticic music] a big g freaking b boat... ♪ and it's a all mine. ♪ along wiwith friendsds and c, of c course. [steam hisissing] [d[deep hummining] [metallic c clanging]] [b[boat horn b blows] [whimsicalal music] [boat hornrn blows] ♪ [b[boat horn b blows] [woman s sings in native e language]] ♪ ♪ [boat hornrn blows] ♪

[boat hornrn blows] i like thihis boat. we're liviving a littltle larr than lasast-- last time e the boat was not t this nice.e. all ththe modern c conveniencs bubut the chararms of the e p. itit fits perfrfectly withty ovover-romantitic delusion, and d in generalal, itit does not t suck. ♪ [boat hohorn blows]] hello,o, gentlemenen. - - hi, tony.. - how yoyou doing? - we'v've having s some gigin and toninic. - gin n and tonic,c, traditioional vietnanamese drin. well, nonot really, , but-- alall right. - - this my fifirst time trying t this. - yeyeah? - - his first t time. - how w old are yoyou anyway?? wait a m minute, youou were fifive years o old last titime i was s in ha longng bay. - yeah, jujust 5. he 20 now.w. - wow. linh andnd i came hehere for r another shshow what feeeels like a lifefetime ago.. back thehen i got toto meet his son miminh, who's s apparentlyly grown . - ththese are pipictures ofof you and h him. - whoaoa. - - 15 years a ago, 14 yeaears. - oh, mymy god. lookok at my haiair.

♪ it's's changed a a little b. like o over 8 millllion peoe are e coming to o ha long bab? - - yeah, everery year, totouri. [all cheerering] - all l of this is protectcted, right?t? you can'n't do anyththing on t these rocksks. - no. - no, nono. - - and how mamany ofof these islslands-- isis it 1,9000 of t these rocksks out there? - 1,969,9, and this s is a gogood number,r, you kno? - it's a a lucky numumber? - six is f for fortunene, and d nine is foforever, so forortune forevever. [serenene pan flutute musi] - a drink k or two on the t top deck, c check. now fofor the restst of the dy tryingng to do as littltle as possisible. a nap, s sunset, maybe sosome more drdrinks, and d what aboutut dinner? - - one for yoyou. - ohoh, thank yoyou, sir. - cheeeer, my frieiend. - - cheers. soso we're eatating some s squi? - - tons of sqsquid. - totons of squiuid?

- wewe try to geget as m many tons a as possible. - ququeue the mamajesty ofof the squidid. [sofoft dramaticic music] at night t this time o of yr the brigight lightss of ha a long bay's's fishing s are unmiststakable. - they c can only cacatch the squid d in the evevening. the e light attrtract the sqsd so they cacan catch ththem. - right.t. they say y that bee ofof global wawarming, all the e fish are d dying but that t the squid and cucuttlefish p populatis are inincreasing,, so soon n the whole e sea will e fifilled with h plenty of f s. wewe'll be eatating it evevery . ♪ oh, yeah, , those are e cute, little sququid. oh, those e are gonna a be ten. - - ooh. - - mmm. oh, , yeah, the e tentacless are ththe best. - - they work k all the nin. - - all the ninight. - ththey work alall the nig. the lilight, it turn onon all the n night. - righght, and thehen sleep all daday?

- yeah. - it's gotot to be hotot out th, man, sleepeping in thehe day. - yeah.. - cheeeers for thehe day. - cheers f for the dayay. ♪

[upbeat rorock music]] [ominous music] ♪

[soft vivietnamese f folk mu] - a momorning swimim, a bowl o of spicy nonoodle, and a viview, perfecect. ♪ how mamany in the e family? - six, a a young cououple anand their ththree kids,, anand then thehe grandma is livining with thehem.

the ololdest kid's's a girl, and shshe was sentnt into the ee with some e relativess to g go to schooool becacause they h have nono schoolingng here. - - right. ♪ floatingng fishing v villages like t this useded to be fouound in neay evevery sheltetered cove or c corner of h ha long bay, but t as vietnamam becomes a a e popular r tourist dedestinati, auauthentic fifishing villls are startiting to disasappe. the governrnment has b been relocatingng fifishing famimilies inlan, hopingng to minimimize theieir ecologicical impac. - - the peoplele living on floatating villagages, theyey're just g generally n e and willlling to opepen ththeir home t to us and-- - they b basically f farm oyst? - yeyeah, yeah.. - a lot ofof pearls fofor se in ha lolong bay andnd in vie. they c come from p places like thihis. ♪ it takeses over a yeyear toto grow eachch pearl, and there'e's no guararante an oyster r will even n yield. ♪

water r spinach, i think k that's calalled, ri? - water r spinach. ♪ that's thehe most commmmon vevegetable for r vietnamesese in t the summertrtime. - mm-hmmmm. - - yeah. ♪ - - what kindd of fisish are thesese? littlele fish? - yeah, haha long fishsh. - - ha long fifish. - yeyeah. ♪ - it's d delicious, , yeah. goodod fish. - mmm. - this is s a pretty p prime pe of real l estate, and d they've lilived here h ho? - - for many g generationsns. ththis old grarandma isis 78 years s old, and she sasaid that heher grandpdparents livived here befofore this alall become, ,, a big toururist attracaction. - isis their sitituation prorod by the statate? theyey're allowewed to live e he by s special-- because ththey've beenen here soso long? - actuallyly, the govevernmet nonow is encououraging thehm toto move backck to shoree becaususe it's betetter fofor the chilildren's eduduca. - - [speaking g vietnameses]

- ththey said ththat they're happy y to move baback because e it's betteter for r their chilildren, but theyey've been l living he for mamany centuriries, and all l they knoww is just t fishing. - riright. [thundnder rumbleses] [e[ethereal drdramatic musus] ♪ just anothther day in n paradis. a trtropical dowownpour inin a workingng-class neieighbd on the o outskirts o of han. ♪

the lady s selling vegegetabls and gum m and cigarerettes taking a n nap under a piecece of corrurugated tin has no idedea whwhat's aboutut to happene. - - turn arounund for me, , sir. [metal detetector beepeps] [beepiping] ththank you. - - ♪ one, , two, get d down ["ththe boss" byby james bror] ♪ ♪ p paid the cocost to b be the bossss ♪ ♪ ♪ look k at me ♪ you knonow what youou see ♪ you s see a bad m mutha [c[cheers and d applause]] ♪ look atat me ♪ youou know whatat you see ♪ youou see a badad mutha - mr. prpresident. both: gogood to see e you. - mr. prpresident, how are e you likingng vietna? - - love it. markets s like thesese

i grew u up with. when i wasas a kid in n jakar, ththese were b basically the onlyly markets a availabl. you u know, you u would buyy prettyty much evererything in n stalls likike. yeah, i i wouldn't m mind gogoing in thehere and hahaggling andnd seeing what i c could find.d. - ththis countryry, when i i first arrrrived here,e, it s smelled likike a placee that i i would likike. cecertain coununtries justs- phereromonicallyly, they jusust smell gogood, and iw ththey're gonnnna be good.. do y you--do youou kind o of smell ththat? - - you know,, there's s certain spspices that youou can smellll in certatain countriries thatat you just t don't smelell back h home. now,w, you know,w, there arare some smemells ththat aren't t as appealiling as welell, but thatat's part ofof the mix.. - it i is indeed.. - so, , yeah. ♪ - ♪ head fofor the turnrn around - how w you doing,g, guys? how are yoyou? - ♪ heading f for the e turnaroundnd ♪ [cheers s and applauause] - i love y you, obama!a! - ♪ told yoyou so ♪

[u[upbeat rockck music] - [speakining vietnamemese] [upbeaeat music] ♪ - there's s something g magicl about t the smell.l. ththe minute y you touch d doe it grarabs you, captivatates you, anand chancese it holds y you foreverer. i'm m not the fifirst to feel ththis way.

♪ [cheerining] there is n no better p plae to enterertain the l leader of the f free world,d, in m my opinion,n, than one of thehese classicic, funk, family-runun noodle shshops yoyou find allll over hano. didinner and a a beer cost aboutut $6. i'm guesessing the p presidt doesn'n't get a lot of s state dinneners lilike this. ♪ hohow often dodo you get to sneak o out for a b beer? - - very rarelely. first ofof all, i dodon't get to sneak o out, periodod, bubut the--oncnce in a whihile i'i'll take mimichelle outut on a datate night. the prproblem is p part of e enjoying a a restaurant isis sitting w with other r pas and enjojoying the a atmosphe, and too o often we e end up gegetting shununted into o e of thosese private r rooms inin the back.k. - - well, i'm m glad i couould, anand to many y more cold d b, mr. presidident.

- i apprececiate it, absolutelyly. mmm. [rock musisic] ♪ all right,t, you're gogonna haveve to-- - i will w walk you ththrough i. - you'u're gonna h have to w walk me thrhrough this.s. - we'r're about toto eat bun c . ♪ ♪ and it is s about as t typicl and ununiquely a h hanoi dish as thehere is. ththese beautitiful lilittle pork k patties, grilleled pork belelly. bun chcha is serveved inin a broth o of vinegar,r,, and the ububiquitous n nuoc , or vietntnamese fermrmented fish sauauce. chilies s to taste.. i memean, if youou have an importatant statate functionon after, you mimight not wawant to go too heavy y on it. - you knowow what? i'i'm going wiwith this ththing. you u know, we'r're gonna dodo what's a appropriatete. - - vinegar. - all riright. - and ththen you jusust hackck off noodldles, and just d drop them into your r bowl. - - yeah, it's's not too e eleg, but i'm mamanaging. - - and you didip and stirr

and get reready fofor the awesesomeness. - - i'm ready.y. now, i is it approropriate toto just popp one of t these wholele suckers in your momouth? or do o you think k that you should be e a little m more-- - wewell, slurpiping is t totally acccceptable inin this partrt of the wowo. - - oh, is it?t? - itit takes somome skills,, by t the way, to handle e these sticicky, cocold noodleses, but whatevever your opopinion of the m man, the prpresident hahas ththose skillsls... - - mmm. - i got toto say. - thisis is killerer. this i is outstandnding. - - that's so o good to hehe. - - it's realllly good. - and d we share, , apparentl, a sentimenentality about asasian streetet food anand southeasast asia in n g. - one ofof my favoririte meals of all timime, therere's an arerea betweeeen jakarta a and bandunu, ananother cityty in indonenesia calllled puncak,k, and d it's up ththrough ththe mountainins, so y you'd havee these roroadside resestaurants overlookoking the tetea fields.. therere'd be a r river runnnning througugh the e restaurantnt itself, and there'e'd be thesese fish, ththese carp t that would d be runnining through,h, and yoyou'd pick t the fish. they'd'd grab it f for you anand fry it u up,

anand the skinin would bee real cririspy, and they j just serveded it withth a bed of f rice, and it wasas the simpmplest meal l possible,, anand nothing g tasted so o goo. [serene mumusic] - nonow, as a chchicagoan--- trickikier questioion frauaught with p peril. is ketchupup on a hot t dog evever acceptatable? - no. no, i re----i mean thahat. that's's one of ththose thingsgs like--wewell, lelet me put i it this wayay. it's notot acceptablble past t the age of f eight. - my daughghter's eighght, and d she put keketchup on e s ththe other dada, and i-i--i wi-- i didn't't know whatat the go- what good d parentingg calleded for at ththis point. - anan interventntion. - - i think soso. - i i think you u just got t t, "you know w what? ththat's not a acceptable.e. i'm sorrrry." ♪ - we are a at a point t whee we seem m to be turnrning inw. i mean, , we're actutually tatalking abouout buildingg a wawall around d our countrtry, and yet t you have b been reaching o out to peopople who don't t necessarilily agree with us--g-gaza, iran,n, cuba.

i i mean, i jujust wish ththae americanans had passssports. the exextent to whwhich you can see e how other r people le seems s useful at t worst and incrcredibly pleleasurabe and intereresting at b best. - it cononfirms the e basic truh that p people evererywhere arare pretty m much the sasame, ththe same hopopes and drere, and when y you come to a placece like vietetnam anand you see e former amemern vietnam vevets coming g back, when youou see somebebody like a john k kerry or a a john mcc, two veryry differentnt people politicalllly and tempmperament, but who wewere able toto bond inin their expxperience ofof mg with theheir former r adversar, anand you don'n't make peaeace with y your friendnds. you mamake peace with your r enemies. ♪ - as thehe father of a yououng girl, is it all l gonna be o okay? it's's all gonnana work out? my daughghter will b be able to come hehere in five yeyears, ten y years? she'e'll be ablele to have a bowl o of bun cha,a,

anand the worlrld will bee a betttter place?? - - yeah. i memean, i thinink progress is not a a straight t line. you know, , there aree gonna bebe moments atat any givenen part of the wororld whwhere thingsgs are terririb. bubut having s said all ththa. i think k things are gonna a work out.. - thank k you so mucuch. - chcheers. - chcheers. ♪

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[upbeat t rock musicic] [woman sinings a cappepella in native e language]] ♪ [sererene music]c] - the vavast majoritity of thihis countryy don't t remember the americican war. they d don't rememember any w. - nono. - - you used t to be a a tour guidede? - yes. - for hohow many yeaears? - 1515 years. - 15 yeaears? i knowow you have e to bring p e over to o the museumum, the amererican war m museu, what, every time, right? - yup. ♪ - in your r lifetime,, is thehere gonna b be a tie when t that's not t gonna he to b be a stop?? it w won't be nenecessary, it wonon't even bebe importan, no onene will rememember? or shoululd people always r remember?

- i i think it's's good to rememember so we dodon't make the sasame mistakeke, you kno? someme people chchoose to b be angry, t to hold grurud, but thenen some peopople chose to let goo and-d--for the p peace insiside themselelf. ththat's up toto the persos, and i ththink it's g good ththat--that---- ♪ it's impmportant that we knknow about h histor. ♪ and to m make sure it's neverer happened d again. ♪ i i met a lot t of war vetet, anand surprisisingly, a lot ofof them don'n't fee- don't t have any a anger against ththeir old enenemie. ♪

and that's--that's amazing. that's--that is amazing. i learned so much from them. ♪ [soft t dramatic m music] ♪ for vietetnamese, we have e so many lelegend, but ththe majorityty of legens rerelated to o our tradititn ofof fighting g against foreign n invaders and d to protectct our countn. ♪ over t the last 2020 years of my lilife i've seen n a lot of c change, and we k know that t there's ststill a lot t of shortcocomin.

[bells d dinging] ♪ but everytything needsds time. wewe need to b be patient.t. we c can't rush h because wewe y don't wantnt another w war. ♪ - generaral william m westmorel, who cocommanded u.s. fororces here in t the mid-'6060s, fafamously saiaid, "the oririental doesesn't put the sasame high prprice on lie "as does a a westernerer. "life e is plentififul. life is s cheap in t the orient" ♪ it was a an extraordrdinarily grotesesque and wrwrongheaded d observatin from a guyuy who, if nothingng else, was exexpected to o understad his enememy on the b battlefiel. he couldld not, it t turned , do e even that.. ♪ maybe, i i hope, we e are a little b bit smarterer now.

♪ [h[horns honkiking] ♪ [hornsns honking and belllls ringing]g] [dramatic instrumental music] - [speakaking nativeve langu] ♪