♪ [h[horns honkiking] ♪ [hornsns honking and belllls ringing]g] [dramatic instrumental music] - [speakaking nativeve langu] ♪

♪ ♪ ♪ [upbeat rorock music]] both: ♪ i took a a walk ththrough thisis ♪ ♪ beaeautiful wororld ♪ felt ththe cool raiain on m my shoulderer ♪ ♪ fouound somethihing good in thihis ♪ ♪ beautifulul world ♪ i i felt the e rain gegetting coldlder ♪ - ♪ la, laa - ♪ sha l la, la, la,a, la ♪ sha la, l la, la, laa -- ♪ shaha la, la, l la - ♪ sha l la, la, la,a, la

♪ shaha la, la, l la, la, laa [dramatic c instrumentntal musi] ♪ - - this is ththe restaurat mamasa in new w york city. tuckcked away on thehe fourth flfloor of t the time wawarner center onon columbus s circle. itit is americica's most expenensive restataura. dinnnner here cocosts around $60600 per persrson befofore sake oror extra pieis of the mosost ououtrageouslyly high-qualaly tutuna on the e planet. the e raw ingrededients are unpaparalleled,, often n flown in f from japan or g grown specicially to thihis man's specififications.. thisis is masa t takayama. to call l him americica's most respepected sushihi chef woululd be an ininjustice,

asas he is morore than that--muchch more. what was i it about hihim ththat set himim apart, totook him frorom a rather bleak k farming cocommunity inin rural japapan to b become firsrst, the toast of los angeles and, later, the king of new york. it is a fafascinating g sto. kanazawawa is the cacapital of ishikikawa prefececture onon the west t coast of honshu u island along ththe sea of j japan. it's's known foror its ununtouched-byby-time tradaditional didistricts, one ofof the few c cities in j japan left relatatively intatact throughohout the warar. it's's famous fofor its crafa, for its beautiful ceramics in particular, but alalso, its artiststic sensibibility. ththe way it a always valuld beautitiful things, traditions. it's a city that helped masa, then at a crossroadsds, to disiscover a whole e new worldd of grace, of aesthetics, of stylele, ththat affecteted him deepep.

for r most, howewever, kanazawa i is simply a place e with greatat seafoo. - itit is the kikitchen ofof kanazawa a city. - yeah?? - thisis market isis. - - ooh, look k at that. - yes. - a lolot of crab.b. - yeah.. see, shrhrimp, sardidines. let't's go therere. - okokay. ooh, l look at ththat, uni. sea urchchin, one ofof my a absolute fafavorite thi, has a lilimited seasason inin japan, from sepeptember to o apri. anand it's tasastiest in winteter. oh, gogood. - - [laughs] - frfrom here? - [speakaking nativeve langua] both: : hokkaido.. - goodod deal. anotheher seasonalal speciay currenently at orr nenear its besest-- kano-gani,i, or s snow crab, , juicy and sweet t and deliciciou. ohoh, man, thahat is . - reallyly good. [slslurps] sweet, huhuh? - very. - we need d a sake, huhuh? [lau] - yeahah. [bototh laugh] - [s[speaking nanative langug] - gogood. - - good, realally good. thank yoyou. - ththank you! - thank k you. veryry good.

[instrtrumental mumusic] ♪ ohoh, let's eaeat this . [speakining native l languag] yeyeah. - - eel liversrs, grilled d on a stickck. unagagi? - ununagi, yeah.h. - yeyeah. ooh, h hot. [lauaughs] - goodod, huh? ♪ - oyoysters. these arare the sizeze of freakining clown shshoe. - - [speaking g native lanang] - - where are e these fromo? - - shimane prprefecture.. - wow.w. just onene oyster isis a mea. it's, lilike, big asas a stea. - yeyeah. ththank you. jujust like ththat, yoyou hold it.t. - frfrench stylele. [laughghs] wow. - - [laug] good, huh? right? this is ththe be. - wowow, that's s good, anand tender f for a big o oyst. - uh-huh. . thank you.. [speakaking nativeve languag] - ararigato. - - it's so gogood, huh? [laughs] - whoo. [instrumumental musisic]

♪ ♪ ♪ the gegeisha profefession-- or geieiko, as it's knknown in kananazawa- gainined widesprpread populay in t the late 1818th century. wearing g elaboratee kimomono costumemes anand makeup, , geikos arere d to enterertain by sisinging, dancing, d drinking--b-basicy makingng older menen, genera, fefeel good anand welcomee for r an hour, m maybe two.. ♪ yayaeko is thehe owner of the f fujinoya tetea hou, one of o only 15 or r so leleft in kananazawa. [playiying shamisesen]

- [singing] - thesese tea housuses, which at o one time numbered i in the hundndreds, prprovide a ststage for the gegeiko, ofof which thehere are onlnly at 50 lefeft working g in the ci. ♪ yaekeko is a retetired geio and d an old fririend of ma, whomom he creditits with teaching h him many ththins ababout culturure, life, and presesumably abobout wome. [clappining] - ninice, beautitiful. - - beautiful.l. thisis is a hardrd thing to o. - - oh, yeah, , yeah. - a a lot of-- - they n need to leaearn a lolot of stuffff. [spepeaking natitive languag] - - play musicic, tell stotor. - - dance. [bototh speakingng native lalan] - a lolot of work.k. - lot t of work. - [spepeaking natitive langua] - chcheers. mmmm. - soso what brouought you hehere first?? - when i i was youngng, i didndn't know ththis other w world-- cocolor-wise, , artists, b beau. i've neverer seen that kinind of stuffff.

big--kinind of shockck. i was a a country boboy. hehere is veryry sophisticica. peopople are sopophisticated. i learned d from her c culture, what t the secret t is, spspeech-wise.e. they t teach me, y you know? thatat's why kananazawa cit, ththis is my s second counu. ♪ - owned d and run byby four g generationsns withthin the samame family,, yamanoo o is a trtraditional l kaiseki rerestaurant t that datess back t to 1890. kaisiseki is a multi-i-course meaeal with a an entirelyly new w menu presesented every fefew weeks, inin response e to ththe changingng seasons and the seseasonalityy of t the productcts available in t the region.n. everythihing is consnsidere- the tataste, of cocourse, how to besest preparee a paparticular f fish or plt at i its very pepeak. prpresentationon. eveven the cereramic dishehs onon which eacach dish

is s served chananges constatan. leaves, , flowers, elemements from m nature evoke ththe season.. wow, looook at the p package. incredibible. ththe first ofof eight disi, presererved in a t tightly wrapped d bamboo leaeaf, intetended to reresemble a s sw, sea brbream served chihimaki-stylele overer rice sligightly swsweetened byby vinegar,, soy saucuce, susugar, and s sesame. - beautifuful, huh, totony? - - beautiful.l. - mmm. - when youou first wenent to the e u.s., how w old were y yo? - - . - [s[speaking nanative langugua] - yeyeah. - - did you hahave a job when y you went? - no. fofor play gololf. [laug] - no w way. - - yeah. but t the thing g , whwhen i s a kid inin art cla, the teacacher tolde thatat american n , ththey--when t they draw o out- just flalat, straighght l. hohouse, tr, sun--h-huge, huge e . - - mm-hmm. [laughs] - so japapanese kidsd, we d do just mouountain firs, ththen house, , r? ththe s.

i wawanted to gogo to. to see h huge la. that's's my, you k , dreaeam, you kn? ♪ - grilleled rockfishsh made horaku stytyle, steaeamed in smomoking wormw. - - good fish,h, right? - very g good. bamboooo shoots and wawagyu beef prepared t table sidee withth soy saucece and mirin. - mmm. - - oh, that's's fantastici. thatat's really y good. today'y's sashimi i course is cod, salteded and pressssed betweeeen leaves o of kelp for two o hours, coated w with sake-c-cured codfish roroe. next to itit, flounderer, itits skin genently rubbed wiwith grilleded tomato the day y before. - [s[speaking nanative langug] - - [laughs] - fifinally, a s super-luxurs clam hot p pot. rice is ststeamed withth clam and a bobonito brothth, thenen topped with p plump torigigai, plplum, and mamanju clams, as welell as creamamy sea urn anand a japanenese broccololi blossom fofor good meaeasure. simpmple, perfecect.

wow. - [speakining native l langua] - - oh. - - uni? - - uni. - - awesome. - all l the umami i hog to the r rice, rig? - - right. soso i want toto know. the sterereotypical l japanese mentality-y--the salarary man. yoyou join thehe company.. you u stay with h the compa. - ohoh, some peoeople go thah. - - most peoplple go this s way? theyey choose sesecurity. - yeahah, yeah, mamaybe. - it's an n unusual waway ofof thinking,g, "i h have to makake my own w " - - yeah, i agagree with t t. oldeder brother,r, they can ne ovover family y busine. i got to d do somethini. wentnt to tokyo,o, then realal, "wow, , thiss a differerent worl" what couldld i do? - yeah.. - secondnd brother, , maybe. - sesecond brothther syndrom. - exacactly. maybebe, yeah. - this wasas awesome.. [both spspeaking natative langu] - good t to see you u a. [i[instrumentatal music] ♪

[u[upbeat rockck music] [instrumenental music]c] ♪ ♪ - isishikawa prerefecture is very rich country. great seseafood, lot of g good vegetatable. ♪ i cameme here to l learn. this placece totatally changeged me. [spepeaking natitive languag] mrmr. izukura,a, he's's my mentoror. - [s[speaking nanative langug] - he's's an artistst-- grgreat artistst. - [speakaking nativeve langua]

- he g gave me a l lot of id. - - [speaking g native lanang] - momore than 4040 years, hehe'n doing ththis kind ofof art. - [speakaking nativeve langua] - i learnened that simple c clean line.e. [speaking g native lananguag] - - then we bebecome great frieiends. - [speakaking nativeve langua] [bototh laugh] - ththen i startrt designingng. i haveve an image e in my hea. i start t drawing. [bototh speakingng native lalan] then i c come all ththe way e to t talk with m mr. izukur. [both spspeaking natative langu] ♪

that passision makekes me changnge. [b[both speakiking native e lan] yeah, ththat's it. g good. yeahah, beautifuful. - [speakining native l langua] - done. - when do you u make the d draws for ththe ceramic c that you ? - when you're drdrinking. - while yoyou're drinknking? - yeah.. - [lauaughs] - - we go--rigight? wewe did so mamany times, , ? - yeyeah, yeah.. - eatiting and dririnking and drawawing. - yeyeah, alwaysys. he teach m me a lot ofof s. - soso when you'u're in new w y. - yeah. - anand the ceraramics come,e, do you e ever go, "what t the--i donon't remembe" - - happened.. happenen. i i get piss. - your d design, manan. - exexactly. [laughteter] - - 90 minuteses southeast of k kanazawa is a mountainous region known as yamanaka onsen. and it looks unlike any place i've ever been in japan. [laughter] masa's good friend

and art advisor, haruo konishi, has a fafamily hideaway h here. a beautifuful 120-yearar-old tradaditional kumiko-style home built araround an irirori-- the sunknken hearthh in the m middle of the l living roomom. it's wilild getting g up here----the snow,, ththe rocks inin the road.. - yeahah, right. - man, it't's--ooh, prpretty. - - yeah. - not ononly does ththe irori heat the e entire housuse, it becomeses the gathehering e on n nights likeke these. - to c chee. cheers. - they g get togetheher, cocook, eat, drdrink large e quantities of u unfiltered,d, slighthtly chunky y sake, and enenjoy the cocountry lif. lookoking good.. the e boys have e laid out the mamakings of a p pretty amazazing fea. iwiwana, or chchar, were caughght today inin a nearby y mountain s s. enorormous hokkakaido scalls pupulled this s morning from the s sea of japapan sie and puckerer in their r shes over the f fire in bututter and limeme juice andnd a toh of homome-brewed s soy sauc. wild japapanese boarar hangs s above the e coals

radiatating its swsweet aroma as i it cooks. look a at that. - yeah. - so h how long hahave you all known n each otherer? how mamany years?? - abouout 30 yearsrs, huh? right? we know eaeach other?? i love t this kind o of cooking, you knowow. that's t the way i l like. - - wow. - yeahah, be carefeful, thoug. it's h hot, thoughg. - yeah. - the--ooho- mmm. - - wow. - yeyeah. sweet. - [s[speaking nanative lang] - usurura--freshlyly caught local ququail-- is rubbed d with oliveve oil, spsprinkled wiwith salt, and lilightly glazazed with t that homemamade soy. - [s[speaking nanative langug] - yeyeah. - oh, wowow. - hohow is it? gogood? - - that's gooood. - - mm-hmm. - this k kind of chahal slslow cookg gigives this k kind of flavor--sosoft, juicy.y. ♪ [speaking g native lananguag] how'w's the fishsh? - [s[speaking nanative langug] [l[laughter] you u know what t he ? befofore fish, i i'm gonna b bu. [laughteter] - so h him first? ? right. [laughter]r]

- don'n't hurry. good fooood takes lolong tim. - so thihis big argugument withth the spaninish--big ararg. is u umami a flalavor or a a sensationon? - umami i is essenc- strorong essen. - - so it's a a mysteriousus f? - yeah. much biggeger tn the univerer. - - bigger thahan flavor.. - of c course. this v vegetae is calleled fukino. undeder the grouound, covevered with s snow, cold.d. then l little by l little, itit opens up p like that.t. this is s first signgn of the s spring. we apprereciate thatat. - hohow do you c cook this?? - grgrill, frieded, or braisise. i'm m gonna grilil. littttle bit oilil, then a a little bibit salt. thisis gets so h happy, the phaseses--so happypy. they want t to be cocooked this s way. their blblood is bititterness- very b bitter. neneed bittersrs to . - this is s italian. this--amararo dolce, at t the end off an italilian meal.

- exacactly. - - sweet, fatat, sweet, f f. atat the end of the meaeal, somethihing bittr toto remind yoyou of thehe sadness.. - - this is ththe umami tot. thatat kind of s sensibility, i dididn't know w that. he taughghte ththis kind ofof deli. he's's my maest, teacacher, you k ? tony, trtry thi. strongng flavor, r right? - well, yoyou're rightht. umamami--it's dedeep. - ththere's umamami. ♪ - amamong izukurura-san's many s skills, apparentntly, is a shockcking proficiciency at making g soba noodldles. ♪ toninight, the s soba is paiap with slilices of tenender dk anand green ononion grilled ovover the irorori. - nice, , al dente.. - mm-h-hmm. - his sobaba is best s soba. - - perfect. then toppeped by a wararm dasi sauce e made of sosoy, mirin,

and a a touch of s sugar. - i'm so g glad we canan shae with thihis moment with my olold friend,, you knowow? - mmm.m. - calleded ichi-go o ichi-e. you knowow what thatat word i? - no, , tell me. - - once in lilife this momom. wewe appreciatate, respectct h other, enjnjoying thisis mome. - - ichi-go icichi-e. - never agagain. - nenever again.n. - yeahah, exactly.y. ♪

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[upbeat rorock music]] join the millions of people taking back their privacy [lively y instrumentntal musi] ♪ - sushshi--and notot just su. sushshi made at t one of the oldedest, most i iconic, resespected, bestst establishshments in the w world. the placace where itit all b, nonot just foror masa takakay, bubut generatitions of youou, predominanantly male sushi i apprenticeces, or deseshis, who w went on to open ththeir own plplacs all l over the world. this is giginza sushi-i-ko inin tokyo. the e original.. 130 years s old. anand for all l that time,e,, in one f form or thehe othe, is how t the day statarted- scalining and gutttting the fif,

prprepping thehe kitchen.. - cleaningng bathroom.m. - mm-h-hmm. - - making sakake for custsto. - - right. - - dishwasherer. - mmmm. - eveverything.. - for hohow long? - fifirst two yeyears. - - only in ththe third yeye, the rice.. - [spepeaking natitive langua] - and ifif you get t that ri, evenentually, mamaybe, just t, the e master wilill begin to teaeach you thehe next ph- how to s stand next t to hm as a wakakita, slicicing the fifish, eveventually----eventually- creatiting pieces s of nigiri for guguests at ththe bar. of the d dozen youngng men who work h here, not all wiwill make itit to b become a susushi shokunu. - oh, itit's long titime. - - to achieveve that stats ofof truly bececoming a master c chef. hohow many yeaears? seseven years s to learn, , r? - yeah. - that's a a lot of titime. - lot ofof work, a l lot of pa. - exexactly. - - what was i it like apapprenticingng here? harard? - hihis father w was pretty y . - - yeah. - vevery tough.. at that t time,

his granandfather was herere too--veryry tough. - young mamasa was firirst hihired here asas an apprenentice by shokuninin toshiakiki sugi. this i is his son,n, mamoruru sugiyama,a, whwho runs susushi-ko toda. the fourthth generatioion toto uphold the stanandards and familyly traditionon. - [spepeaking natitive langua] - things s should stayay the s. - yes.s. - [speakining native l langua] - aji. - seared h horse mackekerel r green ononion and giginger, drizzled w with house-e-made so. - - you got toto love thisis d of stuff----so simple,e, righ? - yeahah, it's fanantastic. - mmm. [speaking g native lananguag] - loveve it. - [speakining native l langua] see, he'e's going to marininate it in n soy sau. that's verery old stylyle. - yeyeah, looks s good. ♪

maguroro--bluefin n tuna, prprepared in n classic zuzuke . that's s so beautifuful. whwhat happenened if youou did a badad job? - hehe didn't slslap but, yoyou, the thining is-- lolouder punisishment. - yeah, , you don'tt go homome feeling g good. - yelling,g, you know,w, yelli. - yelllling. - yelling.g. ♪ - how doeses he remembmber yo? good guyuy, bad guy,y, papain in the e ass? - - [laughs] [speakaking nativeve languag] [l[laughter] - [speakining native l langua] - saxoxophone? - - [speaking g native lanang] - wait, is he anany good at t saxopho? [l[laughter] - - good. [laughghter] - - i love jazazz. i didn't w watch anyththing abot tillll i starteded working h . when thehere's sundaday, day o, takiking class a a little bi.

i play in n here in t the bathroooom. - here?? - at w work. yeahah, i put ththe cloth inin the bebell, then p play like t. - mymy god. theyey proy wanteded to kill y. you'u're a very y unusual ma. [l[laughter] [upbeaeat instrumemental musi] ♪ - sushi i is the besest meal. we c can enjoy e every single smalall piece, d different f . we can s see the chehef right there. he's slicicing--watch h while he makes i it, from riright he. and eat.t. - righght. - [s[speaking nanative langug] ♪ - japanesese tiger prarawn, octopus, a and fluke s sashim. - japanenese cookingng, we c care very m much on theh, which is f fighting spspirits- like thihis, right?? - mm-hmm.. stripeped jack brurushed with soy a and sake. - [speakining native l langua] - this m moment. do not misiss this. thenen grab it, , right?

anand eat. see? - mmm. - that's's why you got t to eat quiuickly. if 3 30 second, , one minutete-- - itit's dying.. - ki i is leaving g somewher. - [laughghs] ♪ almost likike the fishsh-- the e sushis arrrrive moving, swimmiming, very f fast. [clalaps] donene. amazing,g, this momet almomost ended r right there. itit's very imimportant. - - anago, or r sea eel, a hand r roll in fresh c crackling s seawee. [crurunching] mmm, oh, m man. [b[both crunchching] wow. - [s[speaking nanative langug] - - his fatherer told me that i didid a great j job for . - this i is very dififficult. - yeah. ♪

- - [speaking g native lanang] - [lauaughs] pleasase teach mym, what he sasaid. - ahah. wow,w, look at t that. ♪ - thisis has lots s of shrimp p, all those e eggs, and d fish pastete season. - really?? - - very specicial stuff.. ♪ - did d he ever ththink back tn that you w would be a succesess in ameririca? or did h he think, "bad movove"? [lauaughter] - - [speaking g native lanang] - ambitiouous. - exexactly--ambmbitious. - [s[speaking nanative langug] - yeah..

[l[laughs] [laughghter] ♪

[upbpbeat rock m music] [lightht instrumenental mus] ♪ - nasusushiobara i is a towne many otherers in ruralal japa. the e kind of jajapanese town wewe don't seeee much of in movies s or televisisio. a oncece-traditiononal fafarming commmmunity--slolow, inward-looooking, the opposisite end of t the universrse, cuculturally,, from new y yorkand tokokyo, even from m kanazawa.. - - [speaking g native lanang] - it used d to be a fifive-hor trip f from tokyo,o, now rereduced to t two by thehe shinkansesen bullet t . why don'n't we have e these in ameririca, by thehe way? ask yoyour congresessman. ththis rather r drab, featureleless placee isis where masa was b born and raraisd

and coululd well havave staye. bubut then eveverything would'veve been difffferen. masasa's dad, yoyoshio, recently p passed. but his s mom, ishi,i, is s still goingng strong, the cecenter of the famamily. [a[all speakining native l lan] - tony, totony. - - pleased toto meet you.. [laughteter] ♪ - catherine is masa's daughter, californrnia-raisedd but a frfrequent visisitor to the famamily home.. she and d her grandmdmother are prepararing some famililiar comforort foos to celelebrate masasa's homecoc. [both spspeaking natative langu] motsununi is a slolow-simmed stewew of pork t tripe, konnyakuku, daikon,, greeeen onions, , and miso.. ooh. - momotsuni.

- lot ofof food, rigight? thisis is the coununtry food.. [laughs]s] [spepeaking natitive languag] welclcome home. . [laughs] - you don'n't get thisis in newew york. - nono. mmmmm, mmm. [speakining native l languag] - - this is rereally good.. i sesee why you u love this. - mm-h-hmm. - caththerine, by y the way, is a pasastry chef atat the greatat restauranat ththe french l laundry inin the napa a valley. so high-lelevel cookining sees to r run in the e family. so y you grew upup sig in the s sushi b. - i did, y yeah, sittiting on the milk c crate withth a cheesebeburger in f f. and d i'd watch h my dad prere. - mm-hmm.. - and i'd d call out, , "dad" and he'd b be li, "i'm not y your dad heh" i was s like. [gasps] - oh, thatat's funny.. what didid you do for fun baback there?? - i i was eatin. [laughteter] - your fatather was inin the fifish businesess--wholesa? - - fisherman,n, yeah. no, retailil. hehe made sashshimi, righth? - mmmm-hmm. ♪ - [s[speaking nanative langug]

- - masa, his s brother, and ththree sisterers all woworked for the fafamily busininess every y day after r school and on weeeekends. - nine, teten years olold, we cararried the s sashimi disih in thehe special k kind of c container.. we'd go o to all ththe neighborors. - yeyeah. - - to deliverer. - - you learnened how to c cleah veryry early, hohow to cut . - mm-hmm. 10, 11, 12-- that time already i started to grill the fish. ♪ - [s[speaking nanative langug] - in her o opini, were you a a good studu? - [laughs]s] i i was, rightht? - a a good one?? [l[laughter] uh-oh! [b[both speakiking native e lan]

- so were e you surprirised ththat he becacame a big susuccess in a america? - [speakining native l langua] - [laughghs] - you u were not a a lazy ki. - yoyou had dreaeams-- - - no. - anand you wantnted to-- - that's r right. i can't sisit long, yoyou know? i i got to do o something.g. - [s[speaking nanative langugua] [laughter]r] - shshe's sayingng he probaby workrks more heree thanan he does a abr. [laughghter] ♪ ♪ - oh, , man, nice e wasabi. - see ththis? - yeahah. - ththis is the e great flava. so j just scrapepe first, ststart to scrcrape, ththen go thisis way. whoo, , ho-ho. - yeah, nini. wowow, look atat . comfort fofood is one e thi, and damnmn, it's wononderfu. but t masa beingng masa, you'll nototice there's a a mountain of decididedly luxururious sasashimi

brought upup from tsukukiji mt in t tokyo this s morning. - this w we do all t the tim, you knowow? very simimple, ea. - oh, yeyeah, that's's t a nice bigig pile of i incredi, beauautiful uni i like . i do that t all the titime. [l[laughter] some s sea urchin n roe, or , and someme high-testst otoroa ththat any newew york sushsi enenthusiast w would cheererfult their bebest friend'd's throat . - - mmm, mmm.. - mmm.m. - good, huhuh? - fafantastic. - [spepeaking natitive langua] [l[laughter] - oh, ooooh, bold wowords. - - maybe betttter, huh? - tytypical japape mealal--champag, sasancerre. - that's w why we do i it. [lau] - - country cocooking at its besest, right?? [laughghter]

[upbeat t rock musicic] [instrumumental musisic] ♪ ♪

[heavy r rock music]c] - hihigh school,l, rah-rah-r-, high schooool, sisis-boom-bahah, as the m mc5 so n notably sanang. [y[yelling] ♪ but schohool in japapan isis differentnt. they d didn't giveve up onon physical l educationn as w we seem to o have. the thouousand-year-r-old mal art t of kendo,, oror "the way y of the swow" isis still wididely taught. [both h yell] boys a and girls a alike come wiwith bamboo o swords-- sensible s stand-ins for acactual samururai swor, bubut the sameme thing, ma. ♪ [shohouting] - oh, ho.. - kendndo is scorered by strs agagainst the e wrist, headad, torso, o or throat,, eachch representnting a blw that wouould be bad d news if hanandling an a actual bl. - ha, , h.

ththey're fastst, ? - the e concept ofof kaizen-- improvovement, central l to the stutudy of anyny martial a art, it couould be saidid also aps to cookingng at a highgh leve. [gentle mumusic] ♪ ♪ so it't's no surprprise ththat young m masa once s suited up for ththis same teteam at this s same junior higigh school.. ♪ i i think he's's trying to psychch the kid,, but t i don't ththink itit's gonna w work, franknk. ♪ onon the otherer hand. - - [speaking g native lana] [both shououting]

[applaususe] [dramatic c music] ♪ [applalause] - yoyou still gogot it, man.n. looking g good. - thanan. oh. whoo. [speakaking nativeve languag] [allll speaking g native lanan] - awesome,e, man. fafast. ininspiration.n. - [lauaughing]

- yeah!! all: y yeah! [upbeat mumusic] - masa takakayama left nasasushiobara.a. ♪ hihis oldest b brother, kazuo,o, stayed. ♪ he's b been the chchef proprieir of local r restaurant t sugima for the lastst 30 years.s. kimomoyaki, eel l liver dipd inin a sauce o of sake, sosoy, and miririn, and grgrid low and d slow over r charcoa. they couould serve t this at ththe french l laundry, riright? - [l[laug] i think wewe d. - soso back in t the days ofof the famimily caterining busines. - uhuh-hu. - whwhen he lookoked at hihis younger r brother, did he t think, "t"this guy's s gonna makeke somethingng of himselelf" - [speakaking nativeve langua] - he's likike, "no." [laughteter] - 'cauause your dadad said hehe was a badad-- hehe was not a a good stududent. - [spepeaking natitive langua] - it's whehen he wentt to high h school,

and then h he stopped d studyi. - right.t. what was s he doing instead ofof studying?g? - mahjong.g. mahjonong is probabably... [lauaughter] [genentle music]c] ♪ - next, ththis insanelely dedelicious cucustard ofof eel and e egg, jacked witith bean cururd, boninito broth, , and kelp. - oh, wowow. - wowow, that isis beautiful. - [speakining native l langua] - mmm,m, really gogood. of everyonone in the f family, why'y'd your dadad end up t the weirdo?o? - soso after he e gradd high schcho, he didn'n't have anynya what he wawanted to . mymy uncle, atat the , he was a already in n t. and hehe was like,e, "look,k, come out t to tokyo. work at giginza sushi-i" and d he went toto go check k i, and he l loved i. - corrrrect me if f i'm wrong.g. that wasas a tremendndous breakk for an a aimless yououng man frfrom the prorovinces. - - you know, , my fa, being g the secondnd , he kinind of had f free re to do o whatever h he wan. - ah. [both speaeaking nativive langu]

- soso traditiononally, it's the o oldest sonn stayays to take ee ofof the paren. - ifif he could d live his s life over r again. - - ye. - a designgner of-- - fashshion designgner. - - fashion, r really? - ohh.h. ♪ - - then hitsusumabushi, eel ststeamed, dreressed, and grgrilled, ovever rice. oh, , look at ththis. - - oh, wow. ththere are a lot ofof componentnts here. ♪ [spepeaking natitive languag] - wowow, that's s good.

[spepeaking forereign languau] - - [speaking g native lanang] - i've n never had u unagi otr than m my uncle's s unagi. - mm. rereally? - yeye. oh. - - good sake.e. good foodo. - yeahah. ♪ ♪

loving this pay bump in our allowance. wonder where mom and dad got the extra money? maybe they won the lottery?

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[g[gentle music] ♪ ♪ - the e japanese o often bear a heavavy burden of resesponsibilitities. sosocietal expxpectations, famimily obligatations, tradition,n, work. but when t they relax, theyey really dodo it well.. they are b better at i it thanan anybody.. - whwhoa-ho! whoo. - it's gooood, man. soak in n an outdooror onse- naturaral sulfur b baths in the mountains,, for ininstance. - - oh, man, s so good, huh? - yeah, , i feel healthier r already. - yeah. . where's ththe beer? - all riright. so t to speak. - thank yoyou. thank y you. - ahh. - chcheers. - - it is suntntory time, , my . - suntory y time. - it's timime to relaxax.

- [lauaughs] ♪ ♪ - bebeautiful cocolor, huh?? - lookining good. - riright? - - get togethther with soe friends anand cook offff someme al frescoco mountainin-style sukiyakiki, bitches.s. maybe a lilittle tempupura mamade from foforaged wild aspsparagus andnd fukin. - ththat's the w way i . - mmm. yeah. - beautitiful. - and whenen it's sukikiyaki , after a a whole lot t of, shshall we sayay, home-brewewed sake.... - [spepeaking natitive langua] - you u just kick k back, stir in n the maitakakes anand the shititakes, then somome tochigi i beef, and d enjoy the e day. - - this is whwhat i like.. - ohoh, yeah. - beautitiful, rightht? - - this is gogonna be gooood. - - yeah, morere, more, momo, momore, more, , more, momore, more, , more, morere, , more, morere, more, momore. yeah, goodod, good, gog.

- - nice eggs.s. - beauautiful eggsgs. ♪ ♪ - mmmmm. - so gooood. see, t that's whatat i . outside, e especial. outstside it tasastes better, and d much betteter-- - everythihing tastess better o outside. - exexactly, exaxactly. - so how l long have you knowown these guguys? - oh, sisince--sincece high sch. - high schchool? - - high schooool, yeah, whicich is, whatat, 44 years? - 44 yeaears? - - yeah, it's's a long titime? [lauaug] - how w does he reremember youou in high h school? who was ththe best stutudent, whwho was the e worst stududent? - - this is ththe best stutud. - - best studedent? - these e guys--thesese three g, ththe three ofof us is thehe w. - ththe three ofof you weree the bad d students?? - ah, veryry good. - so youou do this wn yoyou were ki? bubuild a firere, cook somomet? - - yeah, alwa. alalways we didid . - drinink sake? - smoke e cigarette e outsid. - yeahah. backck then, didid everybodydyw that youou were not t gonna sta? like, , when you w were in hihigh school,l, did you t talk, "whehen i get olold enough,, i'm gogoing to amemerica? i'm m not--i'm n not stayingng "

- yeahah, we did t t. [spepeaking natitive languag] yeah, i i told the. - now, y you weren't't dressed p like j john waynee or anyththing like t that, were? whenen you went t to school?l? no cowowboy boots?s? - no, , no, no, nono, no. [laughghs] ♪ - theyey say you can take the by out of the country, but you u can't takeke the e country ouout of the b . i don't t know if ththat's t. we a all come frfrom someplal. that's foror sure. bubut new yorkrk city, in masa tatakayama's c cas, seseems far, f far away frfrom the litittle town he grerew up in. ♪