of what the business, a fast fashion means for the planets for mourners. you can always visit our website at t, w dot com and david levitz from me, i am the whole news team here in berlin. thanks for watching. the vine humming does not get drunk. why do gravitational waves squeeze out bodies? how much do we need to put a pond cream for help find the offices get smaller on dw science, outtake talk channel is fast fashion, a lucrative business. one of the hottest fashioned retailers, she ensure hope so, and is now remember to be planning a stock market debut in london where they're hoping to raise $64000000000.00,

smartphone apps and game of buying the shopping experience or driving purchasing for many of these companies but what happens to these close ones, they're no longer trendy. many unwanted items are set to broad. one big importer is truly in this episode, we look at the business of new and old close. even though use governments for many global brands can end up here. predictions for the sector are trending up. chinese founded sheehan has been growing in popularity with millennials, engine fee, and for 2 years, the company boomed during penn demmet to walk downs and grew to over $30000000000.00 in revenue in 2023. but other chief retailers have been around for decades. we're talking about companies like zora each of them and pry mark just to name a few. the value of the sector is worth billions and is expected to grow to a $185000000000.00 by 2027. critics say fast fashion dominates the retail sector. i own 10 clothes uh, sold in trends. 7

o lucas. so this is, this mother is as become a gemini julia for is a member of unload freemont, a french group looking to reduce the environmental impact of the textile and fashion sector. she points out that even while the cost is going down, people are buying many, many more piece of clothing every year. a french person in that rage, by 50 pcs a year. this is twice as much as in the eighty's. uh, the eighty's compared to now is really just the beginning of widespread free trade deals and globalization. so fast slash it is a big influence on the market. but what is it? so that session is a nice 15 feeds a huge quantity of clothes being produced. and then consumed and very low price is low cost is primarily enabled by globalization industries over time have develop

specialized work forces into countries and source materials from where they can get the lowest possible price. all of this is enabled by a complex web of production and trade. for example, let's look at cellulose that's made into this goes fabrics. from now we have an issue team to screen here that are making b school. so the last 4, b for cyber a piano is the director of the fashion observatory of the diego portales university . in santiago, chile, they are selling these fellows from b suppose to china. ok, that are producing base costs. most of the and fixed styles are produced in china pain rate, or maybe making close it in india and then goes to the man they q 2 markets that are the united states where you're looking around the world. some of the top exporters of clothing by value share are china followed by the you and then then go dash china seems obvious, but the, you, well,

the block is also the top importer of textiles. lots of these exported textiles are actually made elsewhere and re exported. and luxury goods pump up the you numbers a back to bangladesh which has an international reputation as a clothing maker. producing close in the south, asian country is cheap, but working conditions can be terrible. with the average salary for a government worker in that country being just about a $100.00 per month, minimizing cost by moving around the world to get the best price is all taking advantage of free trade agreements. this helps keep prices low and creates like we discussed earlier. big volumes that mean we produce a lot and we sell a lot with very soon margins. and so we have to sell like a lot of clothes. here's everyone we reached out to for the story of age and m prime, arkansas are i have responded by pointing to their existing sustainability concepts,

team who doesn't acknowledge any responsibility for sustainability. they say they're only a platform and don't produce goods. we had hope to find a time to visit a store or packaging facility to film. none of the companies were able to find a time before a deadline in germany. some never answered our emails. online shopping allows companies not only to show customers, seemingly endless options, but also to incentivize shoppers online to buy more using all sorts of methods intend that you can push people to buy stuff, they don't need even how that. within, within the physical shop, you can push them by novelty, but you cannot, would be able to level 2 because you are limited by the 2 faced internet. you can, you can propose millions of little teeth. this is, this is what she is doing. she and adds at least 2000 new items every day, according to an investigation by rest of the world. we talked about she and, and there rumored initial public offering earlier since the latest reports that she

and wants to go public and london started percolating. reuters reports that she and has increased prices on average on many items, which could be used revenue and profits, and make them more attractive to investors. according to global data, the us germany and the u. k. or she ends biggest markets. but across the world, the company has really gain beside online shopping. their clothing has gained even further exposure on platforms like tech talk, where halls are a popular form of content according to the global data estimate. but what happens to this clothing after it's no longer trendy when the shirts dresses or shoes are recycled or donated some could sunday end up here in this closing graveyard until these once pristine out of common desert will return to this site later. but 1st, let's talk about what happens to clothing after you try to donate it. whether it's a charity shop or recycling been out of retailer. the next life for your old shirts or jeans is marcie. with adams, close the loop campaign being accused of quote,

green washing and recent years, but recycle textiles are rare. research shows actually across the whole industry, less than one percent of the materials that i used to make clothes are currently recycled back into clothing after these jewels. one is the fashion lead at the ellen mcarthur foundation. a group that promotes circular economies will return to some of her solutions later, but she points out that choices during the construction process can make clothing harder to recycle. currently, when textiles are recycled, it's common to turn them into cleaning materials and recycle threads and fibers can even be made into things like tow bags. so what happens, the other overwhelming majority of closing? well, that brings us here to a key gay, and the northern part of july. this country is the number one importer of use, clothing and south america, and the port of i t k is a popular destination since 1975. the stunning sea side is also home to the kiki i

do free zone zone free for short. se moment i do have an important that i know this for you has been in operation for over 40 years, which is the free trades and that's a part of the state policy to inject resources and improve the economy in this sector in the north. and that does allow the entry of a series of products from all countries already free of taxes and among other items that was used clothing or 50 metal bias, it will not be labeled by country of origin or brand or type clothes are bought and sold here by the bail which could weigh 25 kilos. first and 2nd categories are the best quality. clothing in porters and ex porters are all over a t k. the local name for the use clothing that comes in is even robot. americana or american clothing. some clothing will be exported to other countries and sometimes even sold locally. close to a key gate is the town of auto plus vcm. here,

clothing that isn't sent abroad or elsewhere until a is sold this market and ultimately, the seo is called locate that idea. it's home to small time vendors that buy packages of clothing from a key, gay then sell items individually. merchants told our reporter that a package of 4 category used clothing can cost about 30 to 40 year olds and the so free prices here are cheaper than in stores which makes the economical for bargain hunters and people on a budget and the company. oh no, the other day i bought a pink jacket that in stores would be 40 year olds. it was 5 years or like 10 years at the most expensive. but the difference was a lot of you know, on my way out. but i said as to and even small time sellers hunt for specific brand names in order to re sell online. but ultimately there are items that can't be sold, and that's when they end up here in this clothing graveyard. these abandoned clothes are on the edge of the town of altar has b, c o,

the sand dunes that you can see here, under them like clothes that were simply buried or the remains of burnt merchandise . this own means that what we can see now is only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the advantage and close for comparison. this is what the graveyard looks like just a few years ago. edgar ortega is the head of the environmental directorate and also his bcm implement. it's a very old problem. they brought clothes from his own free here, which obviously doesn't have any type of permit or environmental qualification. acura says poor quality clothing items with no resale value are the reason for the stumps was small time merchants left holding the bag for clothes. they can't sell the company, they buy items and the free trade zone is closing, not as waste and wants to close. don't have a value in any of the markets within the community. they end up in charge of finding a way to eliminate it. even then municipal officials say hundreds of cameras have

been installed in the last few years and that dumping overall has the increase. but even during our filming authorities caught 2 vehicles with allegedly dumping and issued citations, but tracking down individuals one track at a time, one stop the flood of use clothing. so what will stepping back, what can be done to stop the avalanche clothing, which is, as we know, a global problem. let's look 1st to europe, france, you remember we talked about how much bass fashion is sold here. a new law has been approved by the national assembly, but it's still waiting to go through the senate. some of the major impacts of the law would be putting in place an eco point system to evaluate companies. those that perform poorly will face fines applied bureaus per item. the government will also ban publicity for soft gosh. and companies implement the the emission of the french note if and we copied you up and 11. that's questions. everything is

a tech star industry for opponents of the law say france is trying to lead in the u on the topic of over consumption. other groups are hoping to unify the businesses themselves of the tassel. the problem, the ellen mcarthur foundation, has worked with some of the top brands from around the world like framework to try to create minimum standards for clothes. goals include making materials less longer and easier to recycle, for example, eliminating rivets from genes. technically, there is no question over whether or not they would be needed and still deliver the same as the fonts for the genes. it's a design trace to happen. and they in to say, with the recycling part of jewels mission is to make it clear that companies can make money while reducing their impact on the environment. that's why she's pushing against unnecessary waste. the result of this is really that the fashion industry is missing out on hundreds of billions of dollars of valuable materials. or let's

take a look at this project at the diego portales university. in chile, the students and professors there are looking to transform discarded textiles and to a new product that can be used in construction. my believe these are why not to be team. it's a center of their, of, of was fine to take styles in south america. but the big question remains, can this huge problem with vast fashion that so many clothes are ending up trashed? be solved by businesses and consumers or ultimately will such a huge problem require regulation or port enter mentioned to solve it. a lawsuit is exactly what's happening in chalet now file 2 years ago and she lives environmental court to try to stop the dumping and then clean up the ones for staying on a comma desert. and when you're in, the land owner has to make sure that his land, his property, does not threaten to endanger other people. pauline silva et radia is a lawyer,

but she filed a lawsuit as a citizen. she grew up in this region and has family and both a k and all to speak to you. she says the government is ultimately responsible for taking care of the way and you look at the value and that's what i'm claiming, you're a negligent owner. that's what i mean. you're a negligent owner because clothes are deposited on your property. clothes are burnt, so they will see that robot stick to my robot. but the tulane environmental court has not yet come to a final conclusion on this case. so how lucrative is fashion and what are the dark sides? well, fast fashion practices provides the retail sector and companies like she and are betting big on online shopping. we know we're millions of tons of close and up. the question is, will companies really make their products more sustainable and is sustainability profitable? or will it take court cases and new laws to solve the problem? until those come into force business will continue and so well the dumping and yes,

it is lucrative. the whether it's baskets themselves to don, for goals and india, sometimes sports are more than just the game. the saudi arabia has points to reach carpet neutrality by 2016. so why is it still investing in oil and windmill supplies of the fossil fuel run out the .