as of july of last year, when erin fine had it as last the last void, so a really big day in europe, obviously. of next i'll look at the real cost of cheap clothing. what the business, a fast fashion means for our planet. i'm david levitz. thanks for watching the can you see what old car tires have to do with the production? here's a hands on the real media. watch now on youtube is fast fashion, a lucrative business. one of the hottest fashioned retailers, she ensure hope so, and is now remember to be planning a stock market debut in london where they're hoping to raise $64000000000.00

smartphone apps and game assign to shopping experience or driving purchasing for many of these companies. but what happens to these close ones, they're no longer trendy. many unwanted items are set to broad. one big importer is truly in this episode, we look at the business of new and old close. even though use governments for many global brands can end up here projections for the sector or trending up. chinese founded sheehan has been growing in popularity with millennials, engine z, and for 2 years, the company boomed during pandemic locked downs and grew to over $30000000000.00 in revenue in 2023. but other cheap retailers have been around for decades. we're talking about companies like zora each of them and pry mark just to name a few. the value of the sector is worth billions and is expected to grow to a $185000000000.00 by 2027. critics say fast fashion dominates the retail sector on to include uh, sold in trend 7,

lucas. so this is this one. this is as because it jim and julia for is a member of unload fremont. a french group looking to reduce the environmental impact of the textile and fashion sector. she points out that you don't want the cost is going down. people are buying many, many more piece to clothing every year. a french person in that range by 50 pcs year. this is twice as much as in the eighty's. uh, the eighty's compared to now is really just the beginning of widespread pre trade deals and globalization. so fast slash it is a big influence on the market. but what is it? so that session is a nice 15 feeds a huge quantity of clothes being produced and been consumed and very low prices. low cost is primarily enabled by globalization industries over time have develop

specialized work forces include countries and source materials from where they can get the lowest possible price. all of this is enabled by a complex web of production and trade. for example, let's look at cellulose. that's made into viscous fabrics. from now we have an issue, teams friends here that are making the schools. and the last for the, for barbara piano is the director of the fashion observatory of the diego portales university. in santiago, chile, they are selling these fellows from b suppose to china. okay. that are producing the scores. most of the and textiles are produces in china taylor rate, or it maybe making close it in india and then goes to the man they q 2 markets that are the united states where you're looking around the world. some of the top exporters of clothing by value share are china followed by the e u, and then bengal dash china seems obvious, but the, you, well,

the block is also the top importer of textiles. lots of these exported textiles are actually made elsewhere and re exported. and luxury goods pump up the you numbers a back to bangladesh which has an international reputation as a clothing maker. producing close in the south, asian country is cheap, but working conditions can be terrible. with the average salary for a government worker in that country being just about a $100.00 per month, minimizing cost by moving around the world to get the best price is all take advantage of free trade agreements. this helps keep prices low and creates like we discussed earlier. big volumes that mean we produce a lot and we sell a lot with very steve margins. and so we have to sell like a lot of close tiers everyone we reached out to for the story about age and m prime, arkansas are i have responded by pointing to their existing sustainability concepts,

team who doesn't acknowledge any responsibility for sustainability. they say they're only a platform and don't produce goods. we had hoped to find a time to visit a store or packaging facility to film. none of the companies were able to find a time before a deadline in germany. some never answered our emails. online shopping allows companies not only to show customers, seemingly endless options, but also to incentivize shoppers online to buy more using all sorts of methods intend that you can push people to buy stuff, they don't need even how that. within, within the physical shop, you can switch them by novelty, but you cannot put a big i want to level 2 because you are limited by the to face. in internet, you can, you can propose millions of little teeth. this is, this is what she is doing, she and adds at least 2000 new items every day, according to an investigation by rest of the world. we talked about she and, and there rumored initial public offering earlier. since the latest reports that

she and wants to go public and london started percolating, reuters reports that she and has increased prices on average on many items, which could be used, revenue and profits, and make them more attract to investors. according to global data, the us germany and the u. k, or she is biggest markets, but across the world, the company has really game aside, online shopping. their clothing has gained even further exposure on platforms like tech talk, where halls are a popular form of content, according to global data estimates. but what happens to this clothing after it's no longer trendy when the shirts dresses or shoes are recycled or donated? some could some day end up here in this closing graveyard until these wants for staying out of common desert. we'll return to this site later. but 1st, let's talk about what happens to clothing after you try to donate it. whether it's a charity shop or recycling, been at retailer the next life for your old shirts or jeans is murky with and them

close the loop campaign being accused of quote greenwashing in recent years, but recycle textiles are rare. research shows actually across the whole industry, less than one percent of the materials that i used to make clothes are currently recycled back into clothing after these jewels. one is the fashion lead at the ellen macarthur foundation. a group that promotes circular economies, will return to some of her solutions later. but she points out that choices during the construction process can make clothing harder to recycle. currently, when textiles are recycled, it's common to turn them into cleaning materials and recycle threads and fibers can even be made into things like tow bags. so what happens, the other overwhelming majority of closing? well, that brings us here to a key gay and the northern part of july. this country is the number one in border of used clothing and south america, and the port of the key, gay is a popular destination. since 1975, the stunning sea side is also home to the key,

ga, do free zone zone free for short. se moment like you over what inside your the so for you has been in operation for over 40 years, which is the free trades and that's a part of the state policy to inject resources and improve the economy in this sector in the north and applegate and that does allow the entry of a series of products from all countries already free of taxes. and among other items was used. clothing are 50 level by so now labeled by country of origin, or brand or type clothes are bought and sold here by the bail which could weigh 25 kilos. first and 2nd categories are the best quality. clothing in porters and ex porters are all over a t k. the local name for the use clothing that comes in is even robot americana or american clothing. some clothing will be exported to other countries and sometimes even sold locally. close to a key gate is the town of auto plus v. c o. here,

clothing that isn't sent abroad or elsewhere until a is sold. this market and ultimately the seo is called located idea. it's home to small time vendors, the buy packages of clothing from a key, gay then sell items individually. merchants told our reporter that a package of 4 category used clothing can cost about 30 to 40 year olds and the so free prices here are cheaper than in stores which makes the economical for bargain hunters and people on a budget and the company. oh no, the other day i bought a pink jacket that in stores would be 40 year olds. it was 5 years or like 10 years at the most expensive. but the difference was a lot of you know, on my way out, but i couldn't see him. and even small time sellers hunt for specific brand names in order to re sell online. but ultimately there are items that can't be sold and that's when they end up here in this clothing graveyard. these abandoned clothes are on the edge of the town of also has the seo,

the sand dunes that you can see here under them like clothes that were simply buried or the remains of burnt merchandise. this own means that what we can see now is only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the advantage and close for comparison. this is what the graveyard looks like. just a few years ago. edgar ortega is the head of the environmental directorate and altered his bcm implement. it's a very old problem. they brought clothes from the 0 free here, which obviously doesn't have any type of permit or environmental qualification. ecker says poor quality clothing items with no resale value are the reason for the stumps was small time merchants left holding the bag for clothes. they can't sell the company, they buy items and the free trade zone is closing, not as waste and wants to close. don't have a value in any of the markets within the community. they end up in charge of finding a way to eliminate it. even municipal officials say hundreds of cameras have been

installed in the last few years and the dumping overall has the increased. but even during our filming authorities caught 2 vehicles of allegedly dumping and issued citations, but tracking down individuals one track at a time, one stopped the flood of use clothing. so what will stepping back, what can be done to stop the avalanche clothing, which is, as we know, a club, a problem? let's look 1st to europe to france. you remember we talked about how much best fashion is sold here. a new law has been approved by the national assembly, but it's still waiting to go to the senate. some of the major impacts of the law would be putting in place an eco point system to evaluate companies. those that perform poorly will face find a 5 year olds per item. the government will also ban publicity for substitution companies. implement the the emission level differential if and we freed copied at the open level. that could change everything is it takes the industry for

opponents of the law, say france is trying to lead in the u on the topic over consumption. other groups are hoping to unify the businesses themselves of the tassel. the problem, the ellen mcarthur foundation, has worked with some of the top brands from around the world like framework to try to create minimum standards for clothes. goals include making materials less longer and easier to recycle, for example, eliminating rivets from genes. technically, there is no question over whether or not they would be needed and still deliver the same as the fonts for the genes. it's a design trace to happen. and they in to say, with the recycling part of jewels mission is to make it clear that companies can make money while reducing their impact on the environment. that's why she's pushing against unnecessary waste. the result of this is really that the fashion industry is missing out on hundreds of billions of dollars of valuable materials. or let's

take a look at this project at the diego portales university. in chile, the students and professors there are looking to transform discard and textiles and to a new products that can be used in construction. my believe these are why not to be team. it's a center of their, of, of was flying to take styles in south america. but the big question remains, can this huge problem with fast fashion that so many clothes are ending up, trashed? be solved by businesses and consumers or ultimately will such a huge problem require regulation or port enter mentioned to solve it. a lawsuit is exactly what's happening in chalet now file 2 years ago and she lives environmental court to try to stop the dumping and then clean up the ones for staying on a comma desert. and when you're going to buy, the land owner has to make sure that his land, his property, does not threaten to endanger other people fully in silver. radia is a lawyer,

but she filed a lawsuit as a citizen. she grew up in this region and has family and both a k and also her speech to you. she says the government is ultimately responsible for taking care of the way and you'll be able to go away. and that's what i'm claiming. you're a negligent owner, that's what i mean. you're a negligent owner because clothes are deposited on your property. clothes are burnt, so they will see that robot to do my robot. but the tulane environmental court has not yet come to a final conclusion on this case. so how lucrative is fast fashion and what are the dark sides? well, fast fashion practices provides the retail sector and companies like she and are betting big on online shopping. we know we're millions of tons of close and up. the question is, will companies really make their products more sustainable and is sustained ability profitable? or will it take court cases and new laws to solve the problem? until those come into force business will continue and so well the dumping and yes,

it is lucrative. the every day we use our planets, results is from the with bruce to the water the we need to spill life. so how can we save got those resources for tomorrow and leave will today, i am curriculums in nigeria and you are watching eco africa. and i am sandra co homes that we know the right to in uganda. we both need.