of course, i don’t really care who is in power, the main thing for me is that there is work in the market, in general, when you walk through this market, you will be offered not only to warm your hands, that is, not only warmth, you will be offered free bread, free tea, when they see a foreigner, smile and behave very friendly, literally everyone, except these, are representatives of the sharia court, the personification of power on the street alone.

our guide in afghanistan oleg ivanovich gontsov fought for 7 years as part of the legendary fifty-kopeck unit of the 350th parachute regiment. the fighters of this formation, among others, completed the most difficult task during the war. they ensured the safe, loss-free exit of the last columns of soviet troops from afghanistan. oleg ivanovich knows this country like the back of his hand, which is why he did not immediately agree to take us to the dirty kabul market, this is the most dangerous place in kabul , there are practically no foreigners here, there are a lot of those who are punished here, and their own, as it were , let's say, the authorities, their watchers, their own, this is all, that is, here even crime is hiding, so pay attention to the top. there live those who

are probably wanted by all these, let's say, authorities, it is very difficult to find someone here if they don’t want it, in any case, it is easy to find here everything that is prohibited by law. my grandfather and father did this, and now muhammad zakiy continues the steel dynasty; people come to him from all over kabulul to buy or sharpen a knife. i can make any knife, any one from the best steel, sharpen and polish it, and it will last a lifetime serve. a habit from donbass, well, just in case, the so-called argument should always be with you, can you sharpen it for me? cool, perfect sharpening. ugh, wow. i can

shave for 9 dollars for such a luxurious thing. 9 dollars is 900 rubles, but you understand, yes, what kind of steel is here, it weighs one and a half kilograms, 900 rubles. i'll take it, i'll take this wonderful knife and i'll take your beautiful sharpener, provided that you tell me what your name is?

i don’t really understand this, but i see that there are absolutely rare specimens, it’s clear who will buy them, only their own, so they don’t go on the foreign market, but in general you can buy absolutely everything here, knives, at the same time perfectly sharpen them, and even weapons, but no one will show you this, everything is between their own, afghanistan.

there is no open sale of weapons, but they can be repaired completely legally. arun is the only private master in the whole city. different people. i don’t have it, i can’t, i don’t have permission, i can only repair it, with undisguised pleasure we are leaving the dirty market, nothing happened, but strange sensations danger was constantly pursuing us while we

were there, and the huge half-empty square seemed to us all like a saving island, well, look how far i’ll walk now, well , probably right now... 10 m, 15, 20, and so on for another 500 m forward , these are all exchange offices, you can buy absolutely any currency, yens, rubles, dollars, francs, swiss francs, whatever, this has always been the case for decades, in this sense nothing changes, the ruble exchange rate, by the way, is very good.

we understand, the pigeon seller let us down dirty market, didn’t show up at the appointed time , maybe he changed his mind or was afraid to lead us to a mountain village, where most likely a not-so-cordial meeting would have awaited us, and there were probably never any pigeons there. in

kabul we met another person. the sound inside is just some kind of magic, it really relieves any stress. afghans are very passionate. do you think that a flock of birds worth the cost of an expensive car now flies solely for the pleasure of the owner, of course

not. the birds flew out on a mission, free hunting. eat? yeah, that’s where the excitement lies. catch a stranger, he joins the pack, then lure him to catch him, he will live for another week in a cage, he will be part of the pack, the stranger’s owner will come, he will pay for him, there is something in this, good, yes, great. kabul from a bird's eye view, and even in such beautiful weather, it is a huge, very beautiful city. all contrasts begin there, below, and there are even more of them outside the afghan capital. we spent 18 hours on the road,

the pakistani border. today , islamobat blocks it from time to time. transit vital. that's why cheap goods, no sentimentality, business. it’s a simple day, at the checkpoint it’s like death for many, irritation hangs in the air. not a good day to interview people on the street. it's lunch time, but prayer is more important. this man washes his feet before prayer right in the hall. confusing? no, of course, we’re already used to it. the food was delicious and of high quality. and the one who performed the public ablution, the owner of this establishment, proudly

showed us his income for the week, considering that afghani is a little more expensive than the ruble, then there is a considerable sum on the table, that’s what a busy place means. we’ve actually already eaten, but i can’t help but say a few kind words to the owner of this establishment, a wonderful person who keeps everything here, more or less afghan-style, clean. the freshest products, meat is bought right opposite, it ’s boiling in the cauldrons over there, i really don’t understand why they don’t remove the foam, but, probably, in order to make it even more satisfying, we were sitting there at this table, it’s already almost cleared , the restaurant omitted because it was lunchtime time is up, people get back to work, work, work. we came to this tent city by accident, passing by.

the weather is very nasty, light, sharp rain, cold, dank, but on the other hand, it completely corresponds to the living conditions of these people. nomads live here, the baloch, a small tribe of ten million people living in pakistan, iran, and aman. in afghanistan. about 300 patchwork tents, about 60 families, live here for a season, so far it ’s comfortable. this is the weather they consider good. not cold and not hot. when it gets to +50 here, they will remove their camp and move hundreds of kilometers from here, closer to the pakistani border. the camp is protected from the wind by a low rocky hill.

a huge village where you can hide and no one will find you. but the baloch did not fight with us. in 1979, they received generous assistance from moscow, and from that moment they provided support to our troops. in the southern provinces of afghanistan, the shuravi, literally soviet, relied on these tribes. there are known facts when nomads were not allowed to enter their lands mujahideen, fought with them. proud wayward people.

they only have tents, which they move with the advancement of heat across the country in neighboring pakistan, the border is more or less open for them, because on the other side.

these lambs were born just a couple of months ago, everything is being prepared for the upcoming holiday, and even these people living in hellish, difficult conditions will celebrate the holiday, afghans never lose heart, as long as you are alive, there is a chance. there is something that the baluchis will never sell for any money, in moscow these dogs are bred in kennels and they say that they are purebred, but here he is, a real alabai, growing up as a camp guard, yes, harshly,

of course, but such a dog should know, such a dog should know who is boss in the house. hides, hides, feels protection in me, but all i had to do was stroke it, you’re my good one, there is a special relationship with animals, nomads eat meat several times a year, on special occasions, it’s too expensive, goat rams are raised only for sale, they keep the braids only for the sake of milk, where they get food, we we already know, where do they get it?

one of the men is now leading us into this tent, where there is, so you might think, a mosque, well, it’s more like a painting tent, look, they’ve washed all the prices, the rugs are neatly lying, prayer five times a day, i can’t even imagine what these are about people can ask god.

the nomads are deserted, the long journey is at least a month, but this is a way to free yourself from fasting during the month of ramadan, a traveler can eat and drink, a reward awaits ahead, the opportunity to choose the best place to stop and pasture, most likely they are already on the territory of pakistan will choose a new parking lot. and a new place to stay, and these 150 km of the kabul-jallalabat highway are still... it starts at an altitude of 1790 m and literally does not

fall into the valley until the 575 mark, nearby, overtaking cars, the kabul river rushes with the roar of a waterfall. we are driving along the most dangerous mountain road in afghanistan and one of the most dangerous on the planet, but today only nature can kill here, and 40 years ago.

which served for more than a hundred years, was blown up by the americans, next to the ruins, they quickly threw a new one for their equipment, and this is how they treated everything, without respect, for which, as a result, they paid, the bridge over the red river will not forgive them either, there is absolutely everything here, this red river is another confirmation of this, it originates in the foothills, where the copper deposit is located and to extract this...

to pakistan and back, now there are some problems from islamabad, they are difficult to issue visas, and visas are very expensive, so only those who really have money can get through, the situation is gradually changing, 2 years ago it was completely impossible to make the border closed, now it is becoming easier and easier and easier, okay? you see, the pakistani border is not locked, there are now people behind these bars who are going in that direction. many people in wheelchairs are going for treatment, if i take five steps, i will find myself on the territory of pakistan, these guys, you can

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