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the gates, this is how they are, everything is straight, like it turned out that the chief, who is also the commissar, also fought with the shuravi, literally with the soviets. we are not just in the border zone now. and we are actually at zero, now , dear mr. commissioner, he is showing us, showing us the pakistani territory, which is just one step away here, you see what the relationship between the russians and the afghans is, and between those people who fought with each other 40 years ago, it’s amazing , this, this is even difficult to comprehend. we were taken to a place where it is unlikely that any foreign delegation would be taken, just out of friendship, here is pakistan, here is afghanistan, here are the cars, here is the checkpoint, in theory the object is secret, no,

please look, take pictures, you are friends, this is expensive, this is expensive, very expensive, commissar the border checkpoint told us that the crossing.

when islamabad decided to tighten the transition, there was a shootout. major of the pakistani army, ali javad zhanghi, a well-known personality on both sides of the border, was killed. he stood up for the rights of refugees; the terminal on the pakistani side is now named after him. however, there is also a name familiar to both sides. turkham. 5 km from... torkhama is a refugee camp, fully prepared to receive people. this plate was made in afghanistan. it is used to heat water in any object, in a pot, in a saucepan, you can even cook food on it. solar energy is accumulated, falls

to the bottom here and heats up the water within a few minutes, made in afghanistan, imagine, an influx of refugees is expected by the fall. russia to

americans by aircraft of the ministry of defense literally from the first days after the withdrawal of kabul, tens of tons of cargo were delivered. the taliban delivered everything to its destination. to the afghan refugee camp. who return to the country, sunflower oil from the krasnodar region, well, this is great, this is friendship, real friendship. refugees will travel along this road, the main transport artery running through the entire country. this is the same situation when, as they say, i take off my hat, or more precisely, to the efficiency and business acumen of the chinese comrades. this is the road that leads from... pakistan to afghanistan to the capital, to kabul and beyond, it is being restored partly by chinese companies, they give jobs to these people, 115 people work here, each of them in their own village will tell you how great the chinese are, speak

russian, hello, normal, good, khalipa you want, you want. this worker can ask for bread and water in russian, and since language is the basis of communication, since in the beginning there was the word, then even such knowledge of russian, but this is no longer... a bad thing that inspires hope while there is still time to take advantage of it. close your eyes and never determine what kind of city it is: tehran, cairo, baghdad or islamaba. in kabul too. the sounds of car horns do not stop during the day. they all honk for no reason, just out of habit.

everyone who was not entitled to a weapon was taken away, the bandits were caught, the most inveterate

were shot or hanged, the rest were sent to jail. someone else is hiding in the slums of the dirty market, but they will get to them too. we were here 3 years ago, there were problems with security, now we arrived in the city calmly, and i understand that this is thanks to including you. you are doing a great job, how are things going? thank you for your kind words, we were really able to restore order in kabul, the traffic on the road is bad, we’ll sort it out, the main thing is that there are much fewer explosions, the americans were kicked out, we will finish off isis and allah knows, afghanistan will live well, thank you, good luck to you, thank you, any firearm requires a permit, these guys have it, they are the city security service, they noticed us a long time ago, they recognized us. that the russians started a conversation, so what do you think, which of these guys is jealous of the other?

which? well, of course, the one on my right, he has a real car in his hands without fail, and i don’t even know what it is, but he’s polished or something, polished, no, no? polished, polished, it doesn’t come like this, it’s so polished, it’s from 1967, it’s still working, this is kalashnikov, this is not american rubbish, this is good, which one is better?

the situation, of course, has changed, and these houses are also no exception, they are gradually falling into disrepair, no one is investing in major repairs, or even cosmetic ones. kopeks.

they married afghans and lived here, there were quite a lot of them in the microdistrict, these were not only women from russia, but also from ukraine, that is, from all over the soviet union. some of these women remained here after the departure of our troops and the change of power. according to my information, during these battles and confusion, about ten women went missing. there were good times for afghans until 1973. not only were they allowed not to wear a veil, but they were also given the opportunity to receive higher education and vote in parliamentary elections. afghanistan then maintained very good relations with the soviet union. the koran does not say that allah is against communism, so why should we fight it, that’s what the king said.

almost every year he came to moscow, and from here to leningrad, petigorsk, the pantheon, in the center of the colonnade there is a black coffin, although it is not real, right under the grave of zakershah for tourists there is a real necropolis, in this underground gallery they were going to keep all members of the royal family , it is illuminated by natural light, the sun's rays break through the ceiling, they say that if

make a full circle around the gallery, then any dreams will come true, here really... italy, switzerland and the united states. of course, they will not return to kabul in their previous capacity. from the dynasties, only the graves of memories remain here. in afghanistan they are not sure, for sure, but historians say that they know for sure that the grave you just saw belongs to zakirshah’s great-great-grandfather, sultan muhammad khan. considering that it was

built in 1861, it has survived quite well. my friend and i study in kabul in a madrasah, our parents sent us, when downstairs, then kabul is not as beautiful as our kandahar, it is too big and noisy, but we don’t have such a view from this mountain at home, there are generally mountains all around, the city itself is at an altitude of 200 m, this is a real capital, it looks like a big one now.

kabul hopes to get a visa and wants to go to his brother in rostov. this will be very interesting for me, i heard so many good things about russia from my brother that now i want to see everything myself, and i also want to find myself a wife, you have very beautiful women, definitely the best in the world. closer to sunset there are cars on the streets of kabulul there are fewer and fewer traders, traders are leaving the central squares, given that they live far outside the city, they have to get up at 5 am tomorrow to come to the city again, offer their goods the same as those of thousands. in the evening, when the work is already completed, the goods are sold and the change falls into the wallet of literally every afghan man.

after another victory in the locker room, the team no longer sings the old anthem, but an ancient afghan song. the meaning of the words is clear, we fought and won honestly, and there are also words there, happiness rarely comes to the poor. at all, it would seem that recently, driving along this road was considered absolute madness. until the date of their coming to power 3 years ago, the taliban controlled every village here. government forces and coalition troops traveled from kabul to kandahar only by

air; all attempts to somehow subjugate this part of afghanistan ended in failure; it was especially hot in the province neighboring kabul. the province of wardak has always been a powerful center of resistance to foreign armies, including the soviet one. from kabulul to kandahar in 10 hours. main - safe. all the horrors of this route ended as soon as

the taliban who attacked the road began to guard it. the fence is one of the largest american military bases in afghanistan, stretching for many kilometers. the territory is comparable to a small city. it's on the square in front of the checkpoint. this soviet fighter, perhaps out of respect, the americans did not demolish the monument, the taliban also left it, because it still looks powerfully beautiful, nothing has essentially changed, new guests just moved in, these are taliban warriors, which control almost all of afghanistan and are the only power here.

a meter to another and several streets across, everything is from the base, do not try to translate the name of this market from dari or from post, there are no such words, it’s called a bush bazaar, goods from george bush. high-quality, new uniforms were sold a long time ago; only second-hand items that no one needed were left. engine from a black hoke helicopter, original cost: 700 thousand dollars. you can buy it at the afghan bazaar for 80 bucks, but if you don’t haggle, rotary engines, aircraft turbines, i

walk here and think, was it worth it? to drag all this here for crazy billions of dollars, so that later it ends up on the market and is sold for pennies. the central mosque of kandahar is perhaps one of the most important places of worship in all of afghanistan. unlike kabul, no one here skips friday prayers; now all men and women are in mosques. and the city is absolutely empty, as it should be in a mosque, and even in such a huge beautiful one as this, the decoration inside is quite modest, people come here not as if to a museum, not to look at beauty, but to turn to god. well, friday prayer is over and everyone is now heading home. day, as

usual, everything is prepared, everyone gathers, communicates, discusses plans for the next week, although in afghanistan it is not easy to do this yet, god forbid some of them will live to see tomorrow. by the way, people of other faiths were still not allowed into this mosque; there are well-known facts when the arrogant british shamelessly lied that they were muslims, but we honestly admitted that the orthodox were from russia.

russia is a very good country, it is our border neighbor, our good neighbor. there is little time and i had to refuse numerous invitations to visit for tea. i would never have believed it if they had told me that i would be absolutely free to walk the streets of kandahar. kandahar has only recently become so friendly for foreigners. our guide to afghanistan, a veteran of the afghan war, oleg ivanovich gontsov, others remember, those who served here 35 years 40 ago, they don’t recognize anything at all, the city has changed altogether, has changed, these internal sensations, well, let's say, somewhere here in the chest, there is such a feeling, there is, there is, of course, there is, because those who surround us here now, i will say that... well, this young people,

they have never seen us, but those who are old, they are, they remember us and remember us well, and they weren’t very friends, well, let’s say, they respected us, but they weren’t going to be friends, but as warriors, uh, standing here they were very tough confrontation, the islamic emirate of afghanistan won this freedom, including so that our the guests felt relaxed here, we are very happy to have guests. anyone who comes with good intentions should not come here with weapons, it is useless. during the presence of our troops in afghanistan, this place in kandahar was perhaps one of the most unsafe. it was called the black square, although there is literally nothing of the black color here, but there were frequent attacks on columns, on individual military personnel, using firearms, mortars

and even knives. the good one says, he says that even with such a barrel it works perfectly, like this, guys, people come up from the street, having heard an unfamiliar speech, having learned that they are russians, many ask to take a photo together, with my camera, on my phone.