[000:00:00;00] desiring the meaning of clothing and fashion strong move on the dress painting by the famous greek artist christian and sulu in this mural there is magic silhouettes of women, like fish in a net trapped, and the designer freed them from the stadium, as a symbol impresses greek models magical solemn feeling to walk through such an arena , especially for me greek women, because this is my home. maria grazia chiuri amazed by

the impressive plans of the speech they are shocked by the implementation of the work they have been doing for many months. and finally, the swan dress is a symbol of the collective work of a fashion house striving for perfection constant search simon collection manager knows it what is it like to work with maria how is it like? it's very difficult, but she's not just a cool chef at times. does she treat us like

a teacher or a mother? the studio staff noisily rejoice, of course , no flashy colors, only gold and silver, the sky of athens is like a dress embroidered

with sequins, and the stars of dior, the rival of the celestial stars, maria grazia curie, bows from the whole team. stephen jones relaxed jean pleased with the model

in the dress of the swans bypasses the greek stadium the masters were amazed it was amazing. i am very pleased that we saw her excellent work. returned well done as it's great. i'm glad

to see you. what dress would you take for yourself with a turban and a bow? the most theatrical yes, i want to see it again. it was luxurious. in these dresses you need to go on a trip to the best beaches on the islands of cruises. the day after the show, the team of the 51st year are the ones that inspired this

collection. i don't know yet, it takes time. this is understandable, in front of the famous caryatids in the most emblematic place in the world, people don't have that's why i work in fashion. i try to express in fashion what i love. hello this is tatyana gevorkyan and the podcast is not embroidered. and today we have a special guest

, a designer who very rarely gives interviews. and she is a real visionary and a little storyteller. alena akhmadulina alena hello. hi tan, when i go somewhere in dresses of your brand, even people who are very far from fashion, they immediately say. oh, this is alena akhmadullina. yes, the main part of your brand's dna is fairy tales. yes, yes, that's right. this it's good that they immediately determine. it is the task of any brand to be recognizable without a logo. and tell me you have this idea with fairy tales with russian style. it immediately appeared, because your first collections, in my opinion, were inspired by helmets. well actually i lost a lot of time looking for my dna that was 20 years ago. i graduated from the university of design technology, where i made avant-garde collections and then started

hmm making commercial. the main avant-garde is the garzon condo brand. i think everyone knows juni watanaba,

then her younger counterpart from japan, of course, the belgians. well, the belgians admired everyone. most of all i liked daris vanoton from the belgian six, then i also liked tyri muller. well, he worked completely in the opposite style, for example, from rake to akuba. that is, if the cuba rail is such avant-gardism, then the mugler is such a pure glamor erected by some kind of art. well, i liked it, both. many designers already at that time borrowed elements of the russian style for their collections, how do you assess these attempts to integrate styles rus, e in the collection of foreign designers. well, in fact, they do it quite clean and understandable. i also remember the chanel collection, which was created specifically for moscow, and i even had such an amazing hot coat with the image of the kremlin and the salon is quite thin. and i worked with this topic and cleanly. well, it is clear that we are talking about big brands and big

designers who, if they turn to the topic, then do it. this is enough, purely deeply professional and impressively you are carried away not only by russian fairy tales, because you have there was a collection dedicated to alice in wonderland. yes, you had a disney nutcracker and what about? yes, at some point, well, since the history of the brand has been going on for more than 20 years, and at some point we considered the main world fairy tales and made a collection for each of them, but then we tried to go all the same into the russian style, because when we present our collection in a foreign showroom, here in new york, we had a showroom in paris, then first of all, when guests come, showrooms. is it bayer or the press always show. this is a russian designer. this is a japanese designer. this is a german designer. that is, first of all, the origin is always in the foreground. only later. the same surname of the designer, that is, this is belonging to the country, it is of key importance and it became clear that

it is wrong to be inspired by other people's fairy tales , you need to be inspired by your own, and we have already begun to speak only on the territory of russian fairy tales. and when you launched with your brand, then at that time only two names were known from russian couturiers: vyacheslav zaitsev and valentin yudashkin uh-huh and you were somehow inspired by their collections. or, on the contrary, maybe you tried to do something different from the usual russian style from the usual, or rather russian fashion. i remember a valentin yudashkin when he started doing his first shows. it was a live broadcast on channel one, that is, you know such an event across the country, and i was a student, and our teachers came to the next composition lesson. irina safronova analyzed the whole lesson, and she showed valentin yudashkin discussed there the proportion of principals.

in the combination of colors there is the difficulty of working with texture and, of course, we are students, but we listened and studied, because it was our first such russian couturier of the new time of the nineties with the transition of the two thousandths, of course, not that you were inspired by this. hmm, it was so very important stage in history. he very subtly and correctly reflected what was happening in our country and what we felt and violence, and therefore this could not but influence. e for those who then studied and for all designers everyone should were to listen, of course, to this opinion, and then, by the way, you are fast enough. for a young novice designer, you went to paris with your collection, this, in my opinion, when when was your first trip with a collection in paris in 2005, yes. that's probably what you know better. i, i, i resurrected all the dates of the fly-clatter, yes, the collection you had the first show in paris, in my opinion. yes, we recently had some kind of corporate party before the new year. and there was just a quiz question. and

i also participated among all and unfortunately, i couldn't answer. in what collection we went to paris, but our employees were able to, well, then, a fly-sokotuha, yes. but tell me, do you remember, uh, in your first impressions, because then, well, for a russian designer to go to show a collection in paris. it was very cool. it was very prestigious, and i remember that we are here in russia reading about it in the news. well, they were kind of proud. it wasn’t even difficult, because we ended up in the mc2 showroom in paris and at some point they said. well you can you already mature in order to do our shows, we came to the fashion chamber, and so everything was very simple, we came, drank coffee and discussed what we would need. it was good to enter this ward and be on the official schedule. we take you, please, then there were halls in the carousel de louvre, that is, fashion week organized a certain number of halls of different sizes. these were ready-made venues, that is, it was not necessary

to organize the show on your own, you could come to a ready-made solution, and we invited the famous trifas. me, of course, i was struck by the quality of the work of the team and the organization in moscow then to do so. they didn’t know how, and hmm, it was amazing how they released models on the podium, there was a separate assistant director who took each model by the shoulders and before leaving, you said amazing, come on and everyone found something to say, before going to the podium. well, that was certainly very inspiring. and i didn’t believe that guests would come, where would they come from, we don’t know anyone in paris. but the hall was full. well, the agency worked, everyone came watched with interest. generally so very warmly welcomed and a lot. who came, whom we did not expect to see, and at what our show even had a whole winter coat with such a rather warm welcome, warm relations and then there was

the press, there were a lot of publications, things remained in the showroom. they were taken to the shooting by magazines and at the end of the season. well, maybe there were about thirty publications, that is, hmm, everything worked , it was quite interesting and it didn’t seem like a completely difficult task that was unattainable. so please tell me interesting when cultural codes are integrated strangely into fashion collections. there is always a risk of slipping into some kind of deep history with russian fashion and russian style. this is very often seen when someone tries to integrate the russian style. and it turns out just so designed for games with some kind of kokoshnik fur with russian patterns , it often looks vulgar, how to withstand this line, when you use national cultural codes. well, probably just work for the fash industry, because if you are a fashion brand, and you work in this segment. well me every designer.

he is simply not able to make another souvenir product. still, other people are doing this, because there are certain laws of somehow creating a collection, of course, you take into account what is happening in the industry. in terms of trends and therefore, well, to make a souvenir history well , it seems to me impossible for a professional designer, because he has to go through everything that happens in the world and bring his dna and make, of course, uh, very modern for the sibling collection, but who will wear it? eh, a souvenir to yourself, but then how can a brand stay within the framework of commerce, using the brightness of its pronouncedness of its dna and at the same time remain everything in fashion trends, but there are certain rules for building a collection, only 30% of the collection can be created anew, where the designer gropes for new ideas and checks them on how commercial they are 70%

of the collection is already a long-established things in these seventy, there are basic things collection peel. uh, this whole 70% part is based on sales analytics from previous seasons. now, if we are talking about commerce, if we are talking about creating a show, then there 100%, er, there must be some normative ideas, well, they are also based already, but on previous achievements and recognition. and what else would you advise today, to novice designers who want to create their own collections, but now in russia is a unique time and a large number of new brands should appear. so now is the time to act. and of course take into account. these are the general global trends about versatility, and environmental friendliness, and some kind of brand kindness, but take into account the fact that how people work in a team. sometimes

even more important than the product itself. here is comfort, uh, and working conditions, that is, you need to generally understand what is happening in the world and, uh, in this sense, it acts in accordance with trends. well, as for hmm dna, it is very important for a novice designer to formulate right from the very beginning what is the dna of a brand? now, if we remove the logo from this jacket, it is necessary for a person to be able to determine, what brand is this without seeing what is written on it. this is very important. here i myself once did such an exercise 15 years ago and i can advise it to everyone . they gave me armani jeans and said, changing something in them so that they become yours. i cut these jeans, and, so to speak , architecturally pushed them apart in space. well, it was an avant-garde idea, but they immediately became mine in order for the designer to understand what his dna is, he should do such exercises

and then test whose jeans and any person should tell him, this is such and such a brand, this is really what you do, and what other successful components of the show can be in addition to the collection itself, in order to make a successful show, about which all journalists will write, there are many components here. firstly. yes, the choice of venue, of course, inviting guests is very important who sits. uh, in the front row it is very important who came and there are three, like guests - these are silveris, these are buyers, and these are journalists. and here are the energies of these people who are in the front row, and she must coincide. here with the energy of showing those, ide. which the designer wants to convey this season and it works. that's right in the place. you had a very beautiful show last year in charge. yes, thank you, and it was just very beautiful. there is some other platform where you would like to show your collection in

moscow to the world. come on, let's limit ourselves to what. if it's about our side, then we probably haven't been to red square yet. hmm well, maybe my dream is to appear. hmm in the faceted chamber. it's there somewhere it's quite difficult to organize because there are a lot of official events and they say that the show can be canceled 3 days before the event, so it's hard to risk it hmm, but organizing your show in the world. well, i'd probably like to go back to paris. although i don't know when that will happen, there are many venues in paris. let it be in the park this magical place. i am 30 years old. how much can i control? i want to protect you silver wolf on sunday

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the atmosphere over mixing and mixing can only be done by fans, so it constantly blows at the station, heating a set of fresh vegetables and fruits up to 5 kg very carefully with a heater. these are always joyful events for the crew , while the doctors are developing special programs. for us, do it enough difficult. this is not a bastard, tatyana gevorkyan is with you and one of the most famous russian designers is visiting me. alena akhmadulina, i recently saw in your stories a small children's dress with your symbols. and i'm

wondering if this is due to the fact that you now have a new status - you became a mother a year ago. yes, i congratulate you on this. as far as i understand, you don’t talk much about this. well, yes, somehow it was not really my daughter's dress for her birthday. i'm wondering how the birth of a daughter affected you somehow i wanted to make a children's collection. well , of course, i would like to, and we created a collection, and it was quite successful in sales specifically for very young children up to 12 months. and we really enjoyed doing it. well, while we dream of our children's line. i hope the time will come. well, you know, it's so interesting, your collections were always not only fabulous, they were also adored by children , it seemed to me. that your collection a year ago was just on the charger in the park, she was already more adult. uh-huh, that is what you have inside some baby movement. so i think, maybe, yes, the birth of a child, maybe

now you will have a division, that is, a children's collection, and an adult collection will be different. well, it's clear why the children liked it. we are inspired by fairy tales, and all children love fairy tales, well, about adulthood, when it is a personalized brand and designer. of course, she always translates herself in her ideas and in her clothes, so it is clear that growing up cannot but affect what i do. maybe it has something to do with the fact that i i have grown older and see things differently. and maybe even the bridge or somehow changes and this affects the collection. does this mean that you will, let's say , gradually move into some slightly different style, move away from fairy tales, move into some other story, we will not move away from fairy tales. it will stay forever. well , of course, the internal ones will run out. no, then we will go around the second circle or we had attempts to write our own fairy tales, but , of course, the transformation is underway, because time changes, and fashion always reflects what

is happening in the world and it is clear that our style will not change. that is, we work hmm in the style of artisans and stickers, that is, we are inspired by art things, artists, books, films, that is, this is an art style. and we are inspired by fairy tales inside this style, but things themselves, of course, will change, because here, for example, the next 5 years, and the main style will be retro meter, that is, it is any retro mixed, but in some new way, and in one block. if to speak about retro, which era is closer to you at the moment you really like in the eighties they began to be interpreted in a new way for the new generation. that is, if for us it is a meter, it is retro, then for the new generation it is generally a new style. at the moment in the eighties but the seventies, of course, the unique forties can be inspired by them endlessly. in addition to the inspiration of the eighties, today's

fashion requires what emotions, given the time, given the situation in the world, everything. and what is happening now in fashion should bring joy and reassure, because a series of events occurred that required uh hmm from all participants in the process, how to support people, but in what is happening. and when we are frightened of something, we, uh, begin to turn to the past, when we had some joyful events somewhere, so during the pandemic, for example, there was a very strong interest in old things in england, for example, and there on 600% increase in sales of puddings and and in the world in general, uh, sales of vinyl records have increased, because people calmed themselves down in this way, respectively. clothes why it turns retro in the next 5 years, because she wants to soothe and bring joy in the past. people find their joy and solace also clothing should be

very utilitarian people will no longer want to make emotional purchases. for the sake of one outlet, they want to buy things for many years, such rather universal , good-quality, well-made things that can be worn again for 5-7 years and again and again turn to them in the wardrobe. but tell me, please, after all, and fashion in your opinion today. uh, considering everything digital possibilities. it has no boundaries in my opinion. that is, you can borrow some cultural codes of other countries, what we talked about, or you can make your own shows while physically in another country online and you are now at some point, uh, an asset. i started to occupy this digital niche by creating, uh, a digital collection. yes, this is actually such a unique moment in the history of the new age. that's all, we remember how much we

talked about the fact that all ideas have already been invented and the time for stylists has come. here's the latest time. we discussed this here, and two arms, two legs. eh, the man is not going anywhere. and around this body, we cannot create an infinite number of ideas, there are certain limitations, therefore new technologies are fabrics. anyway, we revolve around the same thing, but the appearance of just the meta universes, and the appearance of this life that does not exist in the metal universes. it opens up completely unique opportunities, because there, and a person can be whoever he wants. he can become an animal warrior. he can fly he can shoot e he may have abilities that he does not have in real life and the same thing happens with the suit. mm, thanks to the opening possibilities of the suit, he also gets a new life. that is, it turns out that you can again create quite complex crazy new ideas

that no one needed before. here in these meta-settlements, and, of course, now a whole galaxy of new designers will appear and, uh , there will definitely be new discoveries in clothes, but already in digital clothes, and since in a certain number of years 40% of the money will start to be spent in the meter of universes. we, uh, as a commercial brand are also looking in this direction and have already started producing 3d clothes and plan to develop this direction. and tell me a little, how it works, because it's not very clear to me. and i think that for many of our viewers, this also sounds unusual for them, because i understand what it means to go to a concert for me in this universe, being in another country with vr glasses. uh-huh or look bye with uh, or with a simulated design of your own. housing what is digital clothing? like how it looks on this one showing uh? hmm, apparently, in clothes with your avatar? yes, but this avatar must be

wearing something avatar must be. eh, hair done up. he must live somewhere. uh, this avatar he meets with his friends, and friends go to the exhibition together and spend time and this avatar also needs to create a wardrobe. that is, if my avatar, for example, wants to go to a concert in a dress from alena akhmadulina. i can go to your virtual boutique and choose a dress to buy. yes, the opening of virtual boutiques is already beginning. yes, even here, just you sitting at home, and you need to negotiate with someone. but you don't want to do makeup and hair and dress today. you just turn on the avatars that you sit in front of the screen the avatar completely repeats your speech and your actions. that is, you can straighten your hair cough avatar he will repeat, but he will only look perfect the way you ask him to dress and make up. and you yourself can sit with such a beam in sweatpants and negotiate. it still requires some

preparation and skill, because i i saw people who are not very well versed in technology, uh, who wanted to use, apparently, some other avatar or change the background during their zoom conferences and as a result came out , let's say the management came out to subordinates in the form of a pig or a bunny, understandable that mistakes are unavoidable. this is a new story. your target audience, then there, yes, this is the universe is the universe. it hasn't formed yet. but it still formed a younger audience. well i think yes, of course it is generation zeta because even here discussing with people with generation x this is the universe, but they don't even understand. what it is. they are not going to, not to live there, not to spend their money there and go to concerts there, but they are simply absolutely not ready for this. on our site , too, when they buy a digital dress, then we get angry letters. give me back my money

that i bought. i thought i was buying a real dress, seriously. well, there will have to be a lot, of course, explaining to spend time trying to convey to people what it is, but you how, by the way, when these first dresses appeared, and i look at the social networks of our fashion icons appeared in these dresses, and i increase it like that. i think this is a real dress or fake. at first i thought that these were real dresses, but then i realized that they were still avatars. i understand that it costs much less than a living couture creation. well, yes, initially 3d clothes arose in order to help people who lead social networks not to buy a wardrobe every day in order to create new interesting content, but to use 3d images. hmm, with this task, by the way, and it turns out you need to withdraw. just in a bathing suit or in some kind of clothing that does not protrude to the side send your photo

to buy a dress for there are five dashes 8. by the way , on channel one, a special newscast in the studio of ekaterina andreeva on friday, in the evening on social networks on behalf of evgeny prigogine became active spread information that the russian armed forces allegedly struck at the rear units of the chvkner. in addition, there were calls to deal with the leadership of the ministry of defense followed a video, allegedly the consequences of this strike, it is obvious that this was the first sign of the absence of other video evidence . the statement on behalf of prigogine was distributed in the format of voice audio messages . they are all the same , it follows that they were recorded at the same time and published in a delayed mode , and finally, the third sign of a fake since the publication of the video with the consequences, allegedly

no more than 15 minutes had elapsed before the appearance of the first clip of the statement. with all modern technology. it is hardly possible, in such a short time, to collect all the reports from the field. he will analyze the consequences and record messages. the ministry of defense denied all information about the strike on the location of the wagner pmc, which comes from yevgeny prigozhin, and here is the statement posted on the official telegram channel of our military department. all messages and video frames distributed on social networks on behalf of yevgeny prigozhin about the alleged application by the ministry of the defense of the russian federation, a strike on the rear camps of the pmc wagner is not true and is an informational provocation, the armed forces of the russian federation continue to carry out combat missions on the line of contact with the armed forces of ukraine in the area of ​​​​a special military operation. the defense reported yevgeny prigozhin's provocations to disorganize the situation, which took advantage of the kiev regime in the bakhmut tactical direction for offensive operations

, concentrated unit 35-36. brigades. marine corps servicemen of the southern group of forces defeat the enemy with air and artillery strikes. a statement in this situation around yevgeny prigogine's message about strikes on the location of the chevak wagner was made and the text of the national anti-terrorist committee was published on the website. the statement spread on behalf of yevgeny prigozhin has no basis in connection with these statements, the fsb of russia initiated a criminal case on the fact of calling for an armed rebellion. we demand to stop illegal actions. as explained to the federal security service, a criminal case on the fact that yevgeny prigozhin called for an armed rebellion was initiated due to the seriousness of the situation and the threat of escalation of confrontation in russia, the statement of yevgeny prigogine’s actions was noted by the fsb , in fact, are calls for a civil conflict in the country. this is a backstab to our military, who are fighting against the professional

fascist ukrainian forces, the fsb also regards everything that happens as an informational provocation and calls on fighters pmcs not to make irreparable mistakes to stop any forceful actions against the russian people not to carry out the criminal treacherous orders of prigogine to take measures to detain him. more details about the initiated criminal case against the head of the wagner pmc were reported in the prosecutor general's office. here is the statement posted on the department's official website. on june 23, 2023, the investigation department of the fsb of russia legally and reasonably initiated a criminal case against yevgeny viktorovich prigogine under article 279 of the criminal code of the russian federation. federation on the fact of organizing an armed rebellion, its actions will be given a proper legal assessment. this crime is punishable by imprisonment for a term of 12 to 20 years. vladimir putin was informed about all the events around yevgeny prigogine, he told reporters about this, the press secretary of the russian

leader dmitry peskov, he also noted that the necessary measures were being taken. so once again about what happened in the evening on behalf of yevgeny prigozhin, information was circulated that the russian armed forces allegedly struck at the rear camps, the head of the ministry of defense denied these reports and called everything that happened informational provocations, the federal security service opened a criminal case. in fact, the call for an armed rebellion by yevgeny prigogine in the fsb called on the pmc fighters not to make irreparable mistakes and not to follow treacherous orders. prigozhinny to take measures to detain him was informed about everything that had happened. vladimir putin on this for now , all the new information in the next editions of the news on channel one. we are following

development and our designers this dress. quoted in the photo and will look like the person is wearing this dress. that is, these are your designers, that is, buying it pays. you can't yet. technology doesn't allow it. yes , to integrate it on your own on horseback. well , now many programs are being written and created, but there is not a single understandable one that is easy to use. well, more time must pass. and who else is there designers who use this technology ? digital clothing is already in russia, and there are many designers. i saw heard i do not remember the names. to unfortunately, and how much it is generally in demand in the world. now. i think that ukraine is not in demand either. and what about sales? what is the big microscopic volume of sales? well, you will definitely develop this direction, but you still depend on the emergence of some new technologies that will make all these outfits more accessible and more

functional. well, it depends on a lot. the entire market must begin to react in order for us to enter into it too. that is , to be such innovators to go the most the first is very difficult and expensive. as far as we currently have access to these metasites. yes, it is free, a huge number of them, you and i suddenly really really want to go virtually, dress up and use all the possibilities of the meta universe to dive there, go to a concert, go to a bar to chat with other people. and we, uh, have that opportunity. now, of course, we have to register in some kind of universe to suffer there with development. how to use all this and apparently, then you can go to exhibition or concert or just to drink coffee. and what do you think, how much it will generally be if these technologies are introduced, how much it will, uh, affect some of our communication abilities. maybe we will then forget how to communicate

in the real world. they say that there is such a huge amount of information that uh, if before we wanted to know the news, now we are moving away more, and the zeta generation they don’t even want to communicate in person anymore, because it’s comfortable for them to be able to pull out of the sockets are conditionally a computer and disconnect from all this, than to meet personal and e and depend on some circumstances, a living person, of course, will not be blocked, but you have to sit with him and now talk. well, yes, one button, yes. but what if there is no digital and if we move away from this topic, what other trends are waiting for us in the near future? well, first of all, uh, the invention of new colors, that is, it became possible to print colors like on a computer screen, that is, one with very high brightness, then smart fabrics appeared that can

regulate body temperature. and even to read certain problems and diseases, transmitting information to the doctor in time . well, some certain diseases that are available. well, like clockwork. we can now measure the amount of oxygen in the blood as well and read the tissue for dinner. yes, you have written that the temperature of this person is 39. well, something like this, yes, then fabrics that will quickly decompose and self-destruct fabrics that will, uh, change color or fabrics that do not require washing, they are self-cleaning, that is, a lot of things are invented and, as a rule, many trends begin with fabrics, and the designer is already picking up these technologies. i heard that technologies for fabrics that change their color have already been actively introduced. e depending on

the presence or absence of sunlight. there are some. yes already, yes, and you are planning to use something similar in your collections, very risky. history, as soon as it becomes available, until all new technologies are very expensive. for example, we wanted use, and in our second line in dream fabrics, a dyed with fruit and vegetable peels, but these fabrics are four times more expensive than the rest. that is, it will have a very drastic effect on the cost. the product and our client is not yet ready to buy a dress four times more expensive, because it is dyed with potato peels. from the trends , brands and stores with all-white clothes will still appear. that is, these are brands that will completely refuse decoration. yes , chemical effects on fabrics, and white is not a dye. not by itself, but white dyes. but dairy baked milk is the natural color of the fabric. and what do you like most, what is closer to you from these new technologies

that will appear in the near future, what are you looking at? now, well, i certainly like that we recycle garbage into fabrics that can be worn. eh, there are already a lot of these fabrics on the market, and we use them ourselves, that is, by buying these fabrics and creating clothes from them. i understand that i am useful. i support ocean cleanup as well and my clients buy these clothes will feel like they're apart. feeling beautiful things is beneficial. and who is producing these fabrics now? these are some factories. yes, many companies. this is this trend. stop sustainability. he's already practically. and each fabric manufacturer has it, but so far there are a lot of rails. and here is a small rail with stop by the way, we also used a new technology - these are heaters built into the jacket. but, unfortunately, our customers for some reason did not really appreciate this idea. we ourselves were surprised, because