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tv   PODKAST  1TV  July 2, 2023 4:40am-5:16am MSK

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the name is vyacheslav zaitsev and valentin yudashkin uh-huh and you were somehow inspired by their collections, or, on the contrary, maybe you tried to do something different from the usual russian style from the usual, or rather russian fashion. i remember a valentin yudashkin when he started doing his first shows. it was a live broadcast on channel one, that is, you know, such an event across the country, and i was a student, and our teachers came to the next composition lesson. irina safronova analyzed the whole lesson. in the meantime, she is with valentin yudashkin discussed there the proportion of the main dress combination of colors. there is a complexity of working with invoices. and, of course, we are students, but we listened and learned, because it was our first such russian couturier of the new era of the nineties with the transition of the 2000s, of course, and not that it was inspired. hmm , it was so very important, but stages. he very
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subtly and correctly reflected what was happening in our country and what we felt and violence, and therefore this could not but influence. e for those who then studied and for all designers everyone should have listened, of course, to this opinion, and then , by the way, you are fast enough. for a young novice designer , you went to paris with your collection , in my opinion, when was your first trip with a collection to paris in 2005, yes. that's probably you know better i'm everything i 've resurrected all the dates of the fly-clatter, yes , the collection you had the first show in paris in my opinion. yes, we recently had some kind of corporate party before the new year. and there was just a quiz question. and i also participated among all and unfortunately, i did not was able to respond to such a collection. we went to paris, but our employees were able to, well, then, fly-sokotuha, yes. but tell me, do you remember, uh, in your first impressions, because then, well, for a russian designer
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to go to show a collection in paris. it was very cool. it was very prestigious, and i remember that we here in russia, reading about it in the news, were directly proud somehow , it wasn’t even difficult, because we ended up in the mc2 showroom in paris and at some point they said . well, you may already be ripe for in order to do our shows, we came to the fashion chamber, and so everything was very simple. we came, we drank coffee and discussed what we would need. it was good to enter this ward and be on the official schedule. we take you, please, then there were halls in the carousel de louvre, that is, fashion week organized a certain number of halls of different sizes. these were ready-made venues, that is, it was not necessary to organize the show on your own, you could come to a ready-made solution, and we invited the famous trifas. me, of course, i was struck by the quality of the work of the team and the organization in moscow then to do so. they didn't
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even know how. hmm, and i was struck by how the models were released on the podium. there was a separate assistant director who took each model by the shoulders and before leaving you said amazing, come on and each he found something to say before going to the podium. well, that was certainly very inspiring. and i didn’t believe that guests would come, where would they come from, we don’t know anyone in paris. but the hall was full. well, the agency worked, everyone came and looked with interest. it's very warm met a lot. who came , who we did not expect to see, and at what our show even was, the whole zimenkis was so warm enough, the reception, warm relations, and then there was the press, there were many publications, things remained in the showroom. they were taken to the shooting by magazines and at the end of the season. well, maybe there were about thirty publications, that is, hmm, everything worked , it was quite interesting and it didn’t seem like a completely difficult task that was unattainable. but please tell me, i'm
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wondering when cultural codes are integrated strangely into fashion collections. always is the risk of slipping into some kind of deep history with russian fashion and russian style. this is very often seen when someone tries to integrate the russian style. and it turns out just so calculated, simulated with some kind of kokoshnik fur with russian patterns , it often looks vulgar like that's all the same , to withstand here. scold when you use national cultural codes. well, probably just work in the fash industry, because if you are a fashion brand, and you work in this segment. well me every designer. he i’m just not able to make another souvenir product. it’s still other people who do it, because there are certain laws of somehow creating a collection, of course, you take into account what is happening in the fashion industry. in terms of trends and therefore, well, to make
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a souvenir history well, it seems to me impossible for a professional designer, because he must pass through himself everything that happens in the world and bring his own dna and make, of course, uh, very modern for a sibel collection. well , who will wear, uh, a souvenir on himself, a that's how then the brand can still stay within the framework of commerce, using the brightness of its vividness of its dna and at the same time remaining. fashion trends, but there are certain rules for building a collection, only 30% of the collection can be created anew, where the designer finds new ideas and checks them for how commercial they are 70% of the collection is already things are the crust of the lecture. uh, this whole 70% part is based on sales analytics from previous seasons. here, if we are talking about commerce, if we are talking
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about creating a show, then there must be 100%, uh , some normative ideas, but also based already, but on previous achievements and recognition. and what else would you advise today, to novice designers who want to create their own collections. well, now in russia is a unique time and a large number of new brands should appear. that is, now is the time when you need to act and, of course, take into account, and all general global trends about universality, and environmental friendliness, e , some kindness of the brand, but take into account the fact that the way people work in a team. sometimes even more important than the product itself. here is comfort, uh, and working conditions, that is, you need to generally understand what is happening in the world and, uh, in this sense, it acts in accordance with trends. but as for hmm dna, it
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is very important for a novice designer to formulate right from the very beginning what is the dna of brands? now, if we remove the logo from this jacket, it is necessary that a person can determine what kind of brand it is without seeing what is written on it. this is very important. this is what i did myself 15 years ago. an exercise and i can advise it to everyone did not give armani jeans and said, changing something in them so that they become yours. i cut these jeans, and, so to speak , architecturally pushed them apart in space. well, it was an avant-garde idea, but they immediately became mine in order for the designer to understand, what is his dna, he should do such exercises and then test, whose jeans they are and any person should tell him, this is such and such a brand, this is really what you do, and what other successful components shows can be in addition to the collection itself, in order to make a successful show, about which all
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journalists will write, there are many components here. firstly. yes, the choice of venue, of course, inviting guests is very important, who is sitting in the front row is very important who came and there are three, like guests - these are silvers, these are buyers, and these are journalists. and here are the energies of these people who are in the first row, and it must coincide. here with energy, while with those ide. which the designer wants to convey this season and it works. that's right together. at your place very beautiful was the show last year in charge. yes, thank you, and it was just very beautiful. there is some other platform where you would like to show your collection in moscow to the world in the world. come on, let's limit ourselves to what. if it's about our side, then we probably haven't been to red square yet. hmm well, maybe my dream is to appear in the faceted chamber. it’s quite difficult to organize somewhere there, because there are a large number
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of official events and they say that the show can be canceled 3 days before the event, so hmm it's hard to take a chance like that, but organizing your own show in the world. well, i'd probably like to go back to paris. although i don’t know when this will happen, we will cut a lot of sites. let it be in the park or religion. this is a magical place. it’s not a bad idea, tatyana gevorkyan is with you and one of the most famous russian designers alena akhmadulina is visiting me, i recently saw a small children’s dress with your symbols in your stories. and i'm wondering if this is due to the fact that you now have a new status - you became a mother a year ago. yes, i'm with you congratulations thank you for this. i take it you don't say much. well, yes, somehow it was not really my daughter's dress for her birthday. so i'm wondering how the birth of your daughter somehow influenced you
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. you wanted to make a children's collection. well , of course, i would like to, and we created collections. she was quite successful in sales specifically for very young children up to , uh, 12 months. and we really enjoyed doing it. well, while we dream of our children's line. i hope it comes temporarily. well, you know, it's so interesting, you always have collections. everyone was not only. they were fabulously loved by children. it seemed to me that your collection a year ago was just on charge in the park, it was already more adult. uh-huh. so you have this inside, what statement of the child? so i think, maybe, yes, the birth of a child , maybe now you will have a division, that is , a children's collection, and an adult collection will be different. well, it's clear why the children liked it. we are inspired by fairy tales, and all children love fairy tales, well , about adulthood, when it is a name brand and designer. of course, she always translates herself in her ideas and in her clothes, so it is clear that
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growing up cannot but affect what i do. perhaps this is somehow connected with the fact that i have become older and look at many things differently. and maybe even the bridge or somehow changes and this affects the collection. does this mean that you will, let's say , gradually move into some slightly different style, move away from fairy tales, move into some other story teleling from fairy tales, we will not walk. it will stay forever. but, well, of course, domestic will end. no, then we will go around the second circle or we had attempts to write our own fairy tales, but, of course, the transformation is underway, because the time is changing, and fashion always reflects what is happening in the world and it is clear that our style will not change. that is, we work in the style of the artisan expire. that is, we are inspired by art things, artists , books, films, that is, this is art style. and we are inspired by fairy tales inside this style, but things themselves, of course, will
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change, because, for example, the nearest 5 years, and the main style will be a retro meter, that is, it is any retro mixed, but in some new way, and in one bow. if we talk about retro, which era do you like very much at the moment ? it's retro something for the new generation. it's a whole new style. at the moment in the eighties but the seventies, of course, the unique forties can be inspired by them endlessly. here, in addition to the inspiration of the eighties, today's fashion is what emotions requires, given the time, given the situation in the world everything. and what is happening now in fashion should bring joy and reassure, because a series of events took place that demanded e hmm from all participants in the process. how to support people, uh what's going on.
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and when we are frightened of something, we, uh, begin to turn to the past, when we had some joyful events somewhere, so during the pandemic, for example, a very strong interest in old things grew in england, for example. e. there, sales of puddings have grown by 600% and in the world in general, er, have grown sales of vinyl records, because people in this way the family calmed down, respectively. clothes why she turns retro in the next 5 years, because she wants to soothe and bring joy in the past. people find their joy and solace also clothing should be very utilitarian people will no longer want to make emotional purchases. for the sake of one way out , they want to buy things for many years, such rather universal, good -quality, well-made things that can be worn again for 5-7 years and again and again refer to them in the wardrobe. but tell me, please, after all, and fashion in your opinion
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today. uh, given all the digital possibilities. it has no boundaries in my opinion. that is, you can borrow some cultural codes of other countries, what we talked about, or you can make your own shows while physically in another country online and you are now at some point, uh, an asset. i started to occupy this digital niche by creating, uh, a digital collection. yes, this is actually such a unique moment in the history of the new age. all right, we remember how much we they said that all the ideas had already been invented and the time for stylists had come. here is the last time. we discussed this here, and two arms, two legs. eh, the man is not going anywhere. and around this body, we can not create an infinite number of ideas, if there are certain restrictions, therefore, fabrics are new technologies. yes, but still we
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revolve around the same thing, but the appearance of just the meta universes, and the appearance of this life that does not exist in the metal universes. it opens up completely unique opportunities, because there, as well a person can be whoever he wants. he can become an animal warrior. he can fly, uh, he can shoot, uh, he can have all sorts of powers that he doesn't have in real life and the same goes for the suit. mm, thanks to the opening possibilities of the suit, he also gets a new life. that is, it turns out that you can again create quite complex crazy new ideas that no one needed before. here in these meta-settlements, and, of course, now there will be a whole galaxy of new designers and, uh, there will definitely be new discoveries in clothing, but already in digital clothing, and since in a certain number of years 40% of the money will be spent in a meter of universes. we, as
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a commercial brand, are also looking in this direction and have already begun to produce 3d clothes and are planning to develop this direction. and tell me a little, how it works, because it's not very clear to me. and i think that for many of our viewers, this also sounds unusual for the time being, because i understand what it means to go to a concert for me, this is the universe, being on the other side vr glasses. uh-huh or look bye with uh, or with a simulated design of your own. home what is digital clothing? how does it look like on this show? uh, hmm, apparently, in clothes with his own avatar? yes, but this avatar must be wearing something avatar must be. eh, hair done up. he must live somewhere. uh, this avatar he meets with his friends, and friends go to the exhibition together and spend time and this avatar also needs to create a wardrobe. that is, if my avatar, for example, wants to go to a concert in a dress from
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alena akhmadulina. i can go to your virtual boutique and choose your own dress to buy. yes, the opening of virtual boutiques is already beginning. yes, even here, you're just sitting at home, and you need to negotiate with someone. but you don't want to do makeup and hair and dress today. you just turn on the avatars that you sit in front of the screen the avatar completely repeats your speech and your actions. that is, you can straighten your hair cough avatar he will repeat, but he will only look perfect the way you ask him to dress and make up. a you yourself can sit with such a beam in sweatpants and negotiate. it takes some preparation and skill though, because i've seen people who aren't very tech-savvy, uh, who wanted to use, apparently, some other avatar or change the background during their zoom conferences, and as a result came out , for example, the management came out to subordinates in the form of a pig or a bunny, it is clear that
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mistakes cannot be avoided here. this is new history. your target audience, then there, yes, it is the universe has not yet formed. but it was still formed by some younger audience. well, i think, yes, of course, that this is generation zeta because even here discussing with people with generation x this is the universe, but they don't even understand. what it is. they are not going to, not to live there, not to spend their money there and sit there for concerts, they are simply not ready for this at all. on our site , too, when they buy a digital dress, then we get angry letters. give me back my money that i bought. i thought i was buying real dress, seriously. yes, well, there will have to be a lot, of course, to explain to spend time trying to convey to people what it is, but how are you, by the way, when these first dresses appeared, and i look at the social networks of our fashion icons appeared in these dresses, and i am increasing it. i think this is a real dress
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or fake. at first i thought that these were real dresses, but then i realized that they were still avatars. i understand that it costs much less than a living couture creation. well, yes, initially 3d clothes arose in order to help people, which lead to social networks not to buy a wardrobe every day in order to create new interesting content, but to use 3d images. with this task, by the way, and it turns out you need to withdraw. just in a swimsuit or in some kind of clothing that does not protrude to the side send your photo to buy a dress. for there five dashes 8.000 rubles. and our designers will mount this dress in the photo and it will look like a person is wearing this dress. well, that is, these are your designers, that is, buying it pays. you can not bye. uh, technology doesn't allow. yes , to integrate it on your own on horseback. well , now many programs are being written and created, but there is not a single understandable one that is easy to use.
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well, more time must pass. and who else is the designer using this technology. there are already a lot of digital clothes in russia and designers. i saw heard i do not remember the names unfortunately, and how much it is generally in demand in the world. now. i think that they are still extremely unclaimed. and what about sales? what is the big microscopic volume of sales? well you will develop this direction is mandatory, but you still depend on the emergence of some new technologies that will make these outfits more accessible and more functional. well, it depends on a lot. the whole market must begin to react in order for us to enter into it too, that is , it is very difficult and expensive to be the first to be so guilty. as far as we currently have access to these metasites. yes, it is free of them a huge number of us all of a sudden really. that's really virtual want to go uh, dress up and take advantage of every opportunity.
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it's the universe to dive in there, go to a concert, go to a bar, hang out with other people. and we have e, there is such an opportunity. now, of course, we have to register in some kind of meta-universe to suffer, there with development. how to use all this and apparently, then you can go to an exhibition or a concert or just drink coffee. and what do you think, how much it will generally be if these technologies are introduced, how much it will, uh, affect some of our communication abilities. may be we in general then we will forget how to communicate in the real world. they say that there is such a huge amount of information that, uh, if we wanted to know the news before. now we are moving further. and generation zeta they don’t even want to communicate in person anymore, because it’s comfortable for them to be able to conditionally unplug a computer and disconnect from it all, than to meet in person and depend
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on some circumstances, of course, you won’t block a living person, with him you have to sit and talk. well, yes. one button, how can it not be leading, huh? a what if there is no digital and if we move away from this topic, what other trends are waiting for us in the near future? well, firstly, there is an invention of new colors, that is, it became possible to print colors like on a computer screen, that is, one with a very high brightness, then smart fabrics appeared that can regulate body temperature. and even to read certain problems and diseases, transmitting information to the doctor in time . well, some certain diseases that are available. well, like clockwork. now we can measure the amount of oxygen in the blood, and also read the tissue for dinner. yes, you have written that the temperature
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is 39 people. well, something like this, yes, then the tissues that will quickly decompose are the most destroyed. in fabrics that will change color or fabrics that do not require washing, they are self-cleaning, that is, a lot of things are invented and, as a rule, many trends start with fabrics, and designers are already picking up these technologies. well, i heard that technologies for fabrics that change their color have already been actively introduced. e in depending on the presence or absence of sunlight. there are some. yes already, yes, and you are planning to use something like this in your collections, very risky stories, as soon as it becomes available, while all new technologies are very expensive. for example, we wanted to use, a in our second line, b dreamsy fabrics, a dyed with fruit and vegetable peels, but these fabrics are four times more expensive than the rest. that is
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, it will have a very sharp impact on the cost of the product and our client is not ready to buy yet. the dress is four times more expensive because it is dyed with a card. i will still have brands and stores with all- white clothes purges from trends. that is, these are brands that will completely abandon decoration, yes , chemical effects on fabrics, and white is nothing more than a dye. by itself, no, but snow white dye. but dairy baked milk is the natural color of the fabric. and what do you like most, what is closer to you from these new technologies that will appear in the near future, what are you looking at? now, well, i certainly like it, that we recycle garbage into fabrics that can be worn. eh, there are already a lot of these fabrics on the market, and we use them ourselves, that is, by buying these fabrics and creating clothes from them. i understand that i am useful. i support ocean cleanup as well and my clients buy these clothes will
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feel like they are benefiting in addition to getting a beautiful thing. and who produces these fabrics now. these are some factories. yes, there are many companies. it's this one. decided those stability, he's practically already, and every fabric manufacturer there is, but there are still a lot of rylov and here is a small rail with stop by the way, we also used a new technology - these are heaters built into the jacket. but, unfortunately, our customers for some reason did not really appreciate this idea. we ourselves were surprised, because we have, uh, the northern northern city and the jacket is warm, of course, it can be very useful, but for some reason it’s not popular with us, people didn’t want to decide there to carry some kind of battery somewhere in the outlet inserting a jacket was not appreciated. well it seems to me that it’s a matter of time, because about cars , too, they used to say about cars that why charge a car through an outlet. these sockets. you have to look somewhere now
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for sockets all over the city charging for electric cars, so i think it's a matter of time, time is needed. yes, it might be worth it. it’s to start using it for someone and show that it’s convenient, but the battery is probably heavy, well, like an additional charger for a phone, well, how many there are 200, i don’t know 100 g. maybe, oh, i would probably be your first user with great pleasure. i even bought batteries for myself this winter to charge the phone, which is still heating up, that is , to warm my hands you charge your phones. he's still heating up. they can warm their hands, great. i also use japanese patches. here to hold out on the street long enough. i just wrap them clothes and everything. i'm in a thermos. yes, these patches are also for shoes. the same liners that heat up and still have
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are now being released. uh, such heated socks and gloves fall off, i have not heard of such. yes, now that's still the epoch which is called. fashion is when people buy things quickly enough to get rid of them. we love to clear our wardrobe of some unnecessary things and buy new ones, but at the same time there is still a certain vintage and we know that a lot of dresses that were made made decades ago until now. people buy them, wear them and they are in demand and look great today, what is needed for your clothes to go down in history decades later, maybe there was some kind of exhibition from the costumes of the early 2000s with characteristic things. well, i think, firstly, it should be some kind of extreme innovative idea, for example, as a reason. yeah well, inventing something new, then, yeah, well, like the black square in its time or what? and
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christians dior with their dresses happiness then yes, they have gone down in history now you will not surprise anyone with such a dress. well, at the right time at the right time. they were and in the right place at the shows it's very beautiful. it still looks. yes? secondly, i think that this dress carries some additional meaning. a and. thirdly, i think, just unique very beautiful dresses belonging to some of the best collections of designers can. well, here are those that delight the eye through time, amaze with interesting ideas in working with texture or design or color or a dress dedicated to some a specific task. for example, we created a dress, and dedicated to maya plisetskaya and maria marina aleksandrova starred in it, and we embodied the white and black swan in one dress. the dress was created from thousands of hand-painted feathers. here
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it was dedicated to my plisetskaya and created in a unique way. we created it for 2 months , painted each peru separately processed each feather was drawn by the artist. that is, it is impressive, it is interesting to consider. and as for the fast fashion era, it's over no more people want and sweep out the entire selection. they want to buy. things that they will wear for years, so the quality of the thing comes to the fore, and the design goes a little, the second thing should be utilitarian suitable for different situations. well, for example, here is a large black men's jacket, which must be of very high quality, and without design elements so that it is always relevant after 3 years and after 5 years. it can be completed to put on a dress or put on with jeans or with the same trousers. here is a utility item. there is also a new time in the sense that we are very careful about what we throw away, that is
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, many brands are now offering to take back their used items. and it also starts. uh, the irisale market is developing very actively. now we will see the emergence of a large number of sites that will sell already worn clothes and there will also be more companies that will give clothes for rent. this is all very big, but a new trend. and for some reason it seemed to me that at some point we had a lot of companies that rent clothes, especially beautiful couture dresses that not everyone can afford to buy for the sake of one single outlet. and then a very convenient concept was rented. e, returned it back, but for some reason, e did not become popular, many companies closed in the evening. why because the pandemic happened? there was simply nowhere to go and , apparently, the company could not stand this waiting period. and, secondly, yes, this is such a very powerful trend. but people still have to get used to
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react. and this transition process will take some time alyona thank you very much for taking the time to come to us. we will closely follow your creativity and the integration of all fashionable and modern technologies in your collection. but i say goodbye to you friends and i want to remind you that the paws podcast is not bast, the sheets also strive to become part of the cultural. heritage, come see us on the website of channel one see you soon. dear friends on the air podcast lab and creative industry on the first channel in studios elena hyper and roman pockets and today our guest is igor ugolnikov, people's artist of russia hello hello, opening any search engine now
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, igor ugolnikov is typing there 10 pages where he disappeared and i say ugolnikov, uh, those who watched both at the corner of the show are asking a question , evening broadcasts on channel one, absolutely amazing, and then at some point igor ugolnikov, as the presenter, disappeared where the needlemen disappeared, we have here, right? igor ugolnikov did not disappear anywhere and leads the triangles studio vine film shoots uh, military patriotic and not only patriotic movies and triangles absolutely do not need to be on the air every day anyway, it was my life and plenty, but triangles. e now is not at all who he was before, although the name, patronymic, surname remained the same, but now i'm interested in something else
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in life, so you are right on the screen. tell me to meet in a wrong way, you can often, but the title of people's artist of russia, which was awarded to me on may 12, of course, for me it’s very responsible, because it is a title. now they just don't give it. and now, and it will oblige me to correspond to this title and each of my new work and in my aspirations i. must correspond to the title people's artist of russia a. i'm busy. now, for example, with the huge work of creating a film about the people's militia for me, this is still a personal topic, working on the picture podolsk cadets. with the help of my fellow friends, i managed to find the place of death of my grandfather, who died in the militia on october 7, 1941 and responsibility. now before this topic. i have now personal and on all. and my additional work, which also became
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extremely interesting for me, is the creation of an exposition. e museums and not only in museums and expositions museums on the victory in moscow exposition on november 7th on red square is still the current exposition, which i am engaged in and therefore do not desire any time. i just don't have anything else to do. at what point did the hero's journey happen dramaturgically? how did this bridge come from that igor to today? well actually this one the bridge was laid much earlier at school, when i staged small performances , primarily on a military theme, and even after i entered gitis in the eighties and also tried to make some kind of eda stories there, and even i tried to make heat on the performance also on this topic, a military theme. i always had and was present in me, as a kind of dream, as a necessity, but to do it, but
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as you rightly say, i have been engaged in entertainment television this life. yes, and the time was then epic old soviet television was leaving, a new epic time was being born, a new epic television. and we really liked it from the screen, and the tv to amuse people. and by the way, it seemed to me. that people then needed it very much. it was from the ebony program. it was from the program, then i will deepen this one with the good evening program. in general, i consider the ninety -seventh year, when the good evening program was running daily, one of the happiest years of my life, because every day i met with the audience and met with open hands. spoke into the camera. how do i it seemed an important thing and did it openly lightly and kindly, by the way, i don’t see, for example, the current presenters who would use this wonderful on

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