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tv   PODKAST  1TV  October 8, 2023 3:55am-4:31am MSK

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[000:00:00;00] in the orbital there were only girls, necessarily mongrels, and the training was very strict, that is, the same centrifuge, and then the dogs were necessarily trained, because it was not clear how they would behave in flight conditions, they were trained to eat in conditions - shaking, in conditions of loud sounds, this is real preparation , real, absolutely, real, giving, tell us about your new job, after 7.5 years at the museum of cosmonautics, i was... offered to study not only history but modernity, but let’s say, just completely , that's it, that's what is happening now and what will be interesting in the future, and i moved from the museum of cosmonautics to a private russian space company , russian, mind you, this is very important, because now, i am absolutely convinced of this, cosmonautics as a whole is experiencing some kind of
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renaissance and some kind of revival , and private cosmonautics in russia is now gaining momentum... and it seems to me that right now it will rush to the forefront of everything in general, we continue the conversation with daria wonderful about private cosmonautics in russia, we have three big directions, these are development ultra-light and lightweight launch vehicles, this is the creation of satellites, satellite constellations, and this is the analysis of space data, the three large areas in which we work, everywhere already have their own... everywhere already have their successes, our main slogan is probably the thought that we want to convey that this is space for the earth, we are not talking about the fact that we need to quickly fly to other planets, populate mars or the moon there, no, we are talking about the fact that there are still enough different problems on earth that need to be solved, and cosmonautics in this very can help us earthlings a lot, when i talk about the popularization of private astronautics, i always say that we
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are not us... and people who do not have a direct relationship with space rarely think about how often they actually come into contact with space , use the services of space, absolutely, use the services of space, if those who are watching us now opened their phone this morning, looked at the weather forecast, or used a navigator, or used some kind of maps, just the internet, just the internet, in this moment a person interacts with space, i’m talking about the simplest levels now, and if we’re talking about different... spheres, starting from agriculture, agro-industry, and ending with the oil industry, all these spheres very actively use the data that we receive from satellites , so we , in fact, are very dependent on space in many ways and not just dependent, but space improves, daily improves our life on earth, that is, you invented your own rocket, which you will launch yourself, uh, which which will have a useful payload in the form of
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satellites. which will provide information that you will disseminate on earth. that’s right, all these three areas, they are interconnected, but now, since we are a young company, we are literally 3 years old, only 3 years old, on the one hand a lot, on the other hand, of course, for astronautics there is not much for space, we are still quite , young, and they are all interconnected, but at the same time we are developing them in parallel, that’s what, yes, we are talking now about the direction of ultra-light missiles, we have there have already been several launches , we carried out our... second launch from the test site from which sergei pavlovich korolev launched his first missiles, and this is kapustir, and this was also a very significant event for us. and now we are preparing to launch another rocket, conquer space yourself, this will be another test flight and it will be further, further faster and higher, yes, in our plans everything is exactly like that, and we will do everything that depends on us in order to for this to succeed. who will
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use your services? what satellites will you, well, they will order for you, are there people, companies, organizations that are interested in this, yes, we are already working with several companies that are interested in our services, let me remind you that we ourselves also deal with satellites, and if we talk about that, what satellites specifically, then these are two main large directions, this is remote sensing of the earth, and this is communication, well, communication is geostationary, yes, this is geostationary, this should already be a large rocket, yes. with multiple stages, with multiple stages, we have in one of these rockets is being developed, and just with several stages for launching it to the upper ones, well, now we are talking about geostationary, about geostationary orbit, that is, our russian private space company is developing, there are investors, there are people interested in the project itself, well and of course there will be a huge number of those who will use your resources, absolutely everything is so, and moreover, i
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will say that our investors are all russian, and all these missiles are assembled from 95% russian components, exactly if we say about the missile sector, these are russian components, that you assemble the rocket yourself in your own enterprise, yes. and as for satellites, there the percentage of russian components is lower, but we are also working on this, so as for the rocket there, i say, plus or minus it is 95%, and where do you assemble these rockets, here there are special areas where we do this, most importantly, i wish your company to develop, to prove that there are private companies in russia, specifically space companies, because here we are a little behind ours foreign colleagues, i mean... this one is american, so uh, i hope that we too will be proud of your company, like you, who are involved in space. thank you very much, because honestly, this is what we lack, we lack support and faith.
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we are often very faced with the fact that even the common man in the street has the feeling that private astronautics in russia is impossible for some reason, and when a cosmonaut says that everything should work out, it is of course very pleasant, therefore, what does roscosmo say? you cooperate with him, naturally, we interact with roscosmos, roscosmos supports all initiatives - private owners at one level or another, it is clear that oh, we are about to get into such a complex topic, it is clear that we do not yet have, in our country there are many interaction tools , between private companies and the regulator of their legislative framework, and this too, although a lot has changed a few years ago and it has become easier for private traders, it has become easier for private traders to breathe, it has become easier for private traders to work, therefore, we interact with roscosmos, we understand perfectly well that these are our regulators, without roscosmos we are nowhere. now, there are, of course, some other issues that need to be resolved , because we quite often talk about how good it would be if roscosmos gave private space companies the opportunity
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to use their test base, sometimes private sector owners do not have this very much enough, because private owners must build something of their own or look for some other options. here, but yes, i have a very positive attitude towards this. and let’s hope that over time , i’m sure that everything will work out for you, dari, let’s imagine what you think a person will do in 50 years in space, i’m absolutely convinced that, of course, there will be more manned space flights , it is clear that there will be a huge number of satellites in orbit, and at some point we will come to the point that this will need to be regulated somehow, i think that people on earth will become even more sensitive to astronautics and will understand what cosmonautics is still gives them and this will be some kind of bilateral interaction between people who live on earth and space technologies, and perhaps we will gradually begin to become
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some kind of space species, great, my guest was daria chudnaya, deputy general director of a private russian space company, journalist , i'm anton shkaplerov, this is a space stories podcast. hello everyone, this is nelykomshyty, tatyana gevorkyan is with you. autumn is the time when everyone returns from vacation to the office from vacation to school, so it's time to talk about offie and about the trend for school uniforms. and my guest today is a costume designer. you now have a very relevant topic related to school uniforms , this is the premiere of your film, i’m taking a step, i immediately ask
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kanny, how does the work on creating movie images take place, well, first of all, this is, of course , mental work, intuitive in some way... world, well, in an ideal world, i don’t mean in a material one, that is, you need to find a commonality between your idea of ​​the hero, the hero, as the actor represents him, as the screenwriter and director represents him, and how only now it all comes together at the bottom, the image is found, everyone is happy, then the tenth thing is to find your own clothes, it happens, don’t let’s go straight from the very beginning, then the costume designer receives an offer to work on... a film set in happens at school, that is, accordingly, it’s basically a school uniform, yeah, and preppe style, yeah, and something connected with the school, yes, with the uniform, with the uniform, yes, with the school uniform, and, as far as i understand, that the school
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uniform is now somewhere there, somewhere it is not, somewhere she is free, and this is such a rather, in general, complex style, you know, uh , first of all, naturally, a conversation with the director, after i read the script, how she sees it, in this case she director olga akatieva, and accordingly, i will talk about her in the feminine gender, and olga told me that she wants the main characters to be seen by the demon. forms, because they must show their individuality, but there will be, for example, a representative of the lyceum, just the heroine of milana works at the lyceum, teachers, they must be in such an ideal, pressed, elite school uniform, i started studying modern subcultures, because teenagers without subcultures clearly cannot exist, and one of the heroines, polina, her name is played by vasilisa, an actress, she is just such a bright representative, ready
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, well, everything is mixed there, a goth and ema, in general, she is different from others, in black color, makeup, a blue strand in her hair, and so on, and i also have to clarify that the action takes place not in a moscow school, but in a provincial one, so it was very important, no to make the kids too fashionable, too trendy, because a provincial school should look, not with the same touch as the moscow lyceum, my kids are already lyceum students, they are dressed to the nines, they have emblems, they have very beautiful jackets, well, that is, a strict school uniform, strict hairstyles, everything has to be perfect, that is, such an ivy league, and you were probably inspired by this, yes, including, of course, pripistyle is generally very close to me for an artist and a person, it’s very close to me very interesting, i like this whole thing the aesthetics of boarding schools, i like it when people are dressed neatly and neatly, but
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it seems to me that this is harry potter. everyone is also inspired, naturally, this release of these films also influenced the new popularity of the preppy style, although probably since the forties it has not left the radar, except perhaps in the era of the nineties, when grunge was still at its peak , and so this style, well, even in grunge there were elements, these checkered shirts, and some lights, there was still something, even ties, even in grunge there were elements. yeah, it’s just like that, it’s more informal, more drawn out, that is, they played on, maybe, the preppy style, but in their own on-screen manner, and milana, you play a lyceum teacher, yes, but the original story is that my heroine katerina , she, not entirely honestly, deserves a position as a teacher in one of the main schools in moscow, she goes there, and of course, this is also from a pskov girl who studied at this institute, she
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becomes such a serious young lady, a careerist, and also she is very beautiful, formal suits, i really like my image in this film, because they chose wonderful suits for me, they are all strict, but very bright, and one of my suits is blue, so bright blue, then burgundy, they seem to be the same, but absolutely different and there and went well together... with these guys who are lyceum students, and of course, the final stage is a competition, there turns out to be a literary competition where these guys are gathered, and my class is moscow and the lyceum, they are all strict, they are all in beautiful suits, they have red ties, this is just my weakness for me, i adore all these uniforms , and there is a ninth b, yes, they also have white shirts, but there is a ninth b, which are from another city, directly, there they have and
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they have also white shirts, ties, well, in some places they are not very neat, well, the ties are tied, in others they have jeans, but in my opinion, they have their own clothes, that is, their own, their own clothes, but as if with white ones, even someone wasn’t there, in my opinion, that is, you had to use prepistil here and there, but at the same time show social disunity, yes, and just the main character, seryozha novosad, who played sasha, he also wasn’t in a suit, like i was there all dressed up, but he was more in that style. he was in such a stretched sweater, because it was necessary to show that the person was completely unprepared for the competition, he was detained there because, in general, the plot and plot were very twisted, that is, when we were filming this movie, it felt like we were filming a tv series the number of locations, the number of situations, the number of flashbacks, because there are often references to the past, in my opinion we had three, at least three... times in the past in which we also prepared, well, this is the recent past, yes, that
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is, there was no need to change the style very much, you know, since we are the main character, an orphan, and we are a little like this, we made childhood like this, nostalgically, perhaps , if you look at it this way strictly, maybe it seems more distant than in reality in terms of the plot, in terms of the plot, it’s probably correct to say, here, but it was necessary to show that, too... the protagonist’s level is not very high, that this is not some prestigious moscow courtyard, that’s why the time span is really small, but there is a difference in style. and what do you generally remember in terms of style from the films that were in the style of prepe, harry potter and have already been mentioned, there was also gossip girl, yes, i can’t help but mention wednesday, it seems to me that this is such an incomparable work of costume designers, in general this gothic aesthetic, mixed with preppy, is very
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close to me, gothic preppy is like that, yes, yes, yes, it seems to me that there is also such a splash, now, if you go to shops, mass markets, yes, that is, these black... white dresses with white collars, it just seems to me that this is the influence of wendsday, on this, yes, but it is also beautiful, of course, this is it’s beautiful, and now yes, and even this is good, that it affects the kids who start buying these school uniforms, well, someone is lucky who has a black school uniform in the schools there, because for me it was an absolute disaster when in our gymnasium there, out of black uniforms, one year we were told that everything black school uniforms are not allowed. we now have a blue one at school, for me it was a disaster, i always loved the school uniform , probably everything was perfectly ironed, everything was perfect, there were always some beautiful knee socks, there were skirts, i thought that this uniform was always wonderful sitting, and well, i also had a gymnasium
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, i had a gymnasium, where everyone sat like this, and all these , well, beautiful ironed white blouses there, this one, i always liked it very much, and i adored august, when you go to some stores and buy this school one uniform, plus you also combine a vest or jacket or this skirt, but for some reason some kind of blue uniform was absolutely unacceptable for me, i don’t know, it’s not that i like blue, but black is some kind of it’s a professional color for me; to this day, theater universities also stick to black. well, your black one was total black, or what? no, black and white, and black and white , of course, black and white, then there was blue, which was blue and white, respectively , yes, blue and white, yes, and then generally the next year, for some reason you see here, there was some a fruitful year, that they constantly changed colors, the next year was generally gray, well, in general it’s so impractical, it’s like i bought myself
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a wardrobe, but one, what if next year you need to change everything, yes, just after the black, gray, blue there was a year , and there was a revolt from the parents, who said, are you completely stunned, or what? by the way, it’s interesting, who makes the decision in schools about what the school uniform will be, who would have known, i remember that they even brought us booklets to take to our parents, and our parents chose this one school uniforms, that is, they even make booklets, that is, they made booklets, but of course, there are costume designers for school uniforms, this was our gymnasium, it seems to me that these were some kind of orders, well, that is, you could buy something directly at school or did you have to choose somewhere yourself to come up with these looks? i remember that we were even given some kind of school uniform of this particular color, but you could buy this color,
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that’s how it was, and that is you were given some references and you could either buy at school or somewhere to improvise, then i say after this scattering and we were simply told that there would have to be a school uniform, blue, gray, black, it doesn’t matter, that’s when i stopped liking everything, well, because everything is so different went, i don’t know how, but i really loved always consistent styles, plus adding something, some elements, for example, a wonderful collar, i had a lot of these at school, i bought these and i i wore different ones, emphasized my image, could wear some kind of classic skirt, ordinary. white shirt, constantly changing collars, always getting great pleasure from it, some kind of shoes, what kind of shoes go with this style and are there any acceptable standards for what you can wear, of course, but it was always shoes or ballerina shoes, there are sandals maybe in heels?
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no, heels are not allowed, heels are not allowed, right? no , if it’s a heel, then it’s a mini, like such a square, such a small flat heel, but we weren’t allowed to wear bows, we weren’t allowed sneakers, although that was sometimes stylish, now i can say that i have a younger sister, and to this day she studies in the same gymnasium and to my great regret, the uniform is no longer a uniform, because recently we went shopping with her, she says: oh, i i want to buy a knitted vest like this, you know, now the fashion has gone to big ones, they are even bigger, so massive , long knitted. and that is, not these little ones, which are for no, no, just these knitted vests, with such a neckline, she, well, we are measuring directly with her, i say, sofia, let’s take... a smaller size, she tells me: no, now it’s so fashionable, that is, she puts on this big vest, which almost reaches her knee, and that’s
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how they can go to school, that is oversized has even reached school uniforms, and apparently even jackets, there are these big voluminous shoulders, something that is now kind of stylishly fashionable, if it doesn’t go out of the color category of well, schools, for example, seasoned white, black, blue , gray, then... quite. the break is over and we return to fashion lessons. we have costume designer anna khrustaleva and actress milana bru in our studio today. anna, did you take into account all these modern trends in school uniforms when you were working on the film? i’ll tell you once again about our work with director olga akatyeva, we initially agree that when we make a movie, any kind, we already have six projects, we... try to adhere to the principle of timeless aesthetics, that is, of course, i take into account , i look and look at how
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schoolchildren dress now, but we slightly we smooth it out, that is, heroes who, by their nature, should follow the trend, of course, they stand out, they look the part, but still it’s not exaggerated there are large jackets, a huge vest, which milana is talking about now, that is, we slightly smooth it out, so that after 20 years old, who will watch, i hope, our movie, he wasn’t surprised, no, it didn’t look somehow ridiculous for him, that is, so that the aesthetics were so harmonious, as i understand it, milana’s hero is such a girl, that’s another thing what character traits are you tried to reflect it in her costumes, and in what ways did you achieve this? well, firstly , there had to be a transformation, that is , first we see milana and don’t... suspect anything, we see an idyllic picture of the main character and his girlfriend, but
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then gradually some features of such a careerist steel lady appear, accordingly, there are a minimum of prints , accordingly, straight lines and it was very important to show such a character, charismatic, because the girl achieves her goal, everything seems to go according to her plan until at some point, and therefore these bright colors... they are so rich, charismatic, that is, if you want to show a career woman in a movie, then you use bright colors, no, i always do it differently, i, that is, this is -firstly, you need to look at, naturally, the appearance of the actress, that is, i see that they will suit milan , that is, they will suit another person, the colors are somehow more delicate and this will also show his strength, and then naturally, you need to look at i don’t know , on... in what room this is all happening, that is a huge number of different factors are taken into account, but naturally, if
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a person is so straightforward, strict and so on, these are more straight lines than soft, smooth, fluffy textures, there and so on, that is, this division is obvious, i think, in the work on images in the prep style, where did you get the things, can you buy everything in stores, or did you have to sew to order, or maybe you found something at blash markets? you know, assistants look for things everywhere, that is, i don’t really care where exactly they find them, i it is necessary that at the fitting there is a certain number of different things, which are references tzze, sketches, and how do you draw up a reference, you have a photo, and photographs, something has to be drawn in photoshop, if i can’t find such a picture that accurately conveys, then well, now artificial intelligence can create any images you use. i haven’t tried it yet, i’m somehow afraid to step into this direction, but although i, of course, by the way, i know that your colleagues are already creating
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movie posters using artificial intelligence, that is, they give them all these movie references, they draw posters for them, and they say that it turns out quite interesting, it turns out very interesting, but still the style is recognizable, that is, it is clear from the picture that it was created by artificial intelligence, or such imperfection , it is also supplemented there, that is, you can give a task to you... they will make pictures, and you can supplement it there or use it, they are even a little bit like such a source of inspiration, it turns out that in general this topic, it seems to me, is endless, very interesting , behind it some part of the future is 100% in collaboration with artificial intelligence, but i hope that our profession will not be completely eradicated, and we will still be useful in cinema, but this is actually our present, because now stores are opening where you can try one on, that is, you send a photo of these looks that you can buy in stores, you
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try them on virtually, i didn't know that, wow. already exists, even in russia there are already stores where you can experiment with everything, or see, how it fits on you - this or that, it’s not, it’s not an exact calculation, how it fits, well, it’s approximate, but you can still imagine, you don’t have to waste time, but see which one, yes, yes, you can, you can speed up the process of selecting clothes, it’s interesting, yes, that it appeared, first on the internet, there are these fitting rooms, virtual, but i didn’t know about the stores either, it’s somewhere in japan in russia, there’s one in russia, yes, yes. but when creating these images, you agree directly with the characters on who wants to look like, i had to work with milana, with actors, you mean, and as a rule, we already discuss this at fittings, and uh, with milana, in general with most of the participants, with
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most of the characters, we somehow got along almost immediately, but some of the actors? there are such cases, in my career, thank god, well, less and less often, i think how experience matters, like more and more developments of some kind, with whom you can come with a ready-made image, who is better to call in advance, discuss over the phone, but there is an idea, for example, that i can’t bring a mass market to the actress ravshana kurkova, yes they need some higher brands, simply because a person of such status , an actress of such status, and she only wears... luxury brands, i can’t say that only luxury ones, she also understands that she, let’s say, she she plays with us, studying for school, schools, she works very deeply and subtly on the images, she understands that a teacher at school cannot wear a suite, but show that she is married to a very wealthy man, which is later revealed in the film, it was also important, that is, we selected jewelry for her that matched everything
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lines, textures, colors - these were taken from luxury... dy, but still in terms of content, that is, there were there, there was a moscow market too, just somehow diluted. milana, does this image help you get used to the role through clothes? yes, of course, but in general, i already said today that for me, as an actress, there is no such thing that i won’t act in this, i don’t like it, because i’m an actress, and i have to... my work, that is, there are no roles that you would refuse, this is in my opinion, as it were, that everyone must do their job, and well, well, the makeup girls, they must do their job, make their images on me, like on clay, and the costume girls, costume designers must see me in this image,
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the director must give me tasks that i have to perform, and i, in turn, have to combine all this, because this is my profession, to justify why this, this, this, this, this is in one person, also the text, this, the script, her her way of thinking, her way of moving, her way of life, her way of behavior, why she is so dresses, why she wears makeup like that, i have to justify this as an actress, and i believe that every image can be justified, every task can be completed, if you think about working on it, then... this is what my heroine is for me can’t walk in this, well then, answer the question why he can , that is, i think that it still needs to go deeper and do as they tell you, because it seems to me that there is professionalism in this, and when it’s me i won’t, it doesn’t suit me, it’s me, a person knows better what suits you and what doesn’t suit you
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character, because he is here just for this, so i’m specifically talking about the artist and about the natural one who sees this image, because you see the image of yourself as in a mirror, like who will like me or not , and the director , let’s say, he sees the picture as a whole, just like an artist, he sees how they will all fit together, so in this sense, i think that you can’t talk only to yourself, you have to trust people who already see like this, and i look just like this. repetition is the mother of learning, i advise you not only to watch it, but also to rewatch it. costume designer anna khrustaleva and actress milana bru are with me in the studio today. if we talk about this popular prepi style in general, who is it suitable for? can only schoolchildren and students wear it using some references directly in their educational life, or can they wear it, this is
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a popular style, now it is being actively promoted from everywhere. no, it seems to me that this is for this period of time, this is one of the main movements of our style, kind of strict, but free, and i very often see... adults in this style, i’ll tell you more, i really like it, i really like it when it seems to be very official and strict, but there is such a lightness... this is freedom, and this is very stylish, in my opinion, especially since now this is such another milestone of return, and it really can be freer and even be combined with grunge moments, that is, an older person can wear a jacket and an igalstock, but on a naked body, for example, by the way, these are the elements about styles can be used in office clothes, because they have something in common, these are quite similar styles, but still different, what elements can be borrowed for work in the office, because probably there is a short adhesive skirt, not always, not in
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every it’s appropriate to come to the office, it will be strange, well, the same jackets, vests , shirts, it seems to me, even perhaps these long shorts, which are classic, yes, classic, if you take the classics, some consistent color. also possibly beige, brown, something like that, some boots, and even a white shirt, also very strong, plus an accessory, well, something like - ties, but not so strict, but tied, i think this is very interesting now, with some, well, additional bag, color scheme can be completely transferred to the office, yes, of course, although of course , offices are also different, different degrees of dress code, but it seems to me that now more and more - the world is moving, on the one hand, towards freedom and expression of oneself, on the other hand , this is the desire to still return to the official proepistyl, yes,
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you said the word office cor, yes, now it’s like that again, and the tendency to return there, for some reason, maybe with popularity, due to the popularity of the eighties, they are coming back to us again, and these jackets with voluminous shoulders, then there are women, just different silhouettes, that is, now there was an oversized silhouette , i don’t know where we will move next in oversize or whether it will all decrease in volume, well, it will reach some peak, as always with any trend, there is some peak , when there is nowhere else to go, then it will naturally decline, and then, in parallel, a trend of femininity, sophistication, fashionability of some kind of ballet looks develops, ballet shoes have returned to fashion, for example, how many years have we not worn them, thinking that it’s somehow... such a sudden flash, that is, everything...
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after all, people wanted to get rid of everything black, voluminous, so massive, strict, and to play with it a little, well, by the way, this style was introduced quite artificially, it was still within the framework of the promo of the barbie movie, yes, but why - everyone picked it up, that is, like any trend, it can be picked up. maybe it could pass so fleetingly, so it turns out, you got lucky, because the prepe style is very popular now, all the brands on the eve of the start of the school year released capsule collections in the prepe style, yeah, it turns out that your release just coincided, yes , you performed just like barbie, the stars aligned, let’s hope that the audience will like it all, we have several... someone seems to be outside of this style, but there are heroes who, you can just say, are practically like students
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of some closed institution, english, but of course, naturally, we lowered the temperature, given that this is happening in pskokovye, by the way, i wanted to say everything, i just can’t insert it, that two costume designers worked on the film, the fact is that i was nine months pregnant , couldn’t... on set, so there is another costume designer, nika belyaeva, you remember her, we worked together several times, this is my good friend, she was more responsible for fashion trends, because she lives in new york, she works at fashion weeks, she as if i was aware of all the trends at the very beginning of their origin in the very place of their origin, so to speak, and i was more responsible for being close to reality, for the fact that we understand that this is happening in pskov, and this is happening in moscow, and it’s like we have such a creative tandem, i hope you have such a serious approach, i’m very interested in looking at the costumes, yes, yes, but somehow milan later affected your future

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