[000:00:00;00] i want you to take my words seriously, i am very serious, hello, trutsky, like a legend, is immortal, but not you, i have money, i can get you new documents, take you to a place where no one will ever find you, then and we can take natalya with us, why does everyone separate me and the legend from trotsky, there is no one without the other. no, when i’m with you, i’ll first of all betray myself, and not some fairy-tale character, but you yourself said that betrayal is prejudice, no, i didn’t say that, i said that in that world, o which i always dreamed of, there will be no place

for betrayal, but we live in this world, right? there ahead, the heels of the whites are already sparkling, right along the shore there is a barn, which is 100 years longer, well, my eagles are stretched out and past the barn , let’s run, comrades, so i say, we are running past this barn, and there, comrade fedutov, continue, well, that’s what i’m saying: we’re running through, so , and there, and there are four enemy machine-gun crews, so comrade shakitsky, that ’s what he was called for by the military council, the whites left the viduts, they had to mow them like grass,

may i notice? the enemy machine gunners refused to carry out the combat mission, did not shoot, and came to you, with their hands raised , just like that, expressing their intention to switch sides, but they came to you, not to fidutal, they came to me, a former tsarist officer, a military specialist, in whose devotion... you all doubted, inspects the barn, does everything that your fidats were obliged to do , your dashing stupidity, arrogance, coldness, could cost your life, so oops, here the devils give, but like the enemy’s guns, kokoshekh

markin, yes, but how can we celebrate a victory like that without markin, but hold on, oh, leva, leva, oh , my golden, curly-haired little head, what a plan you came up with, and kill the guns, i men, when i saw him for the first time, comrades, who did not live to see this time. oh, head, oh, head, oh, where are you going,

urgent, moscow, lenin, i intend to develop. attack the garrison at drunken bor , having previously eliminated the coastal artillery with a sabotage group, lines of unreliability, my code is old, if the dispatch is intercepted, then for markin it will be certain death, send. what do you need, why did you come, why are you with me, brother, i didn’t have anything with natalya, and it couldn’t have happened, and what does natalya have to do with it, i never stooped to jealousy,

then why, why? we met at the moment of my humiliation, the most powerful thing in life, which needs to be protected, protected, which can be. initially pat on the shoulder, and i was the chairman of the revolutionary military council, a sacred deity, a demon, whom everyone was afraid of, except you, but who cares, i was your friend, you did makes me humane, and this only loses.

be healthy, brother. one of my friends in kamchatka was climbing a volcano, got lost, suddenly noticed someone ’s dark silhouette behind a rock, he waved, it was death, no, no, it was a black climber, the group went in his direction and came out to... lord, now i won’t sleep, i’ll think about the old dead climber who is wandering

around the eight-thousanders here. there are only 14 mountains in the world above 8,000 m. 10 of them are located in the himalayas, four in the karakarum massif in pakistan and k-2. climbing an eight-thousander is always a challenge to rarefied air, fatigue, and one’s own courage. every step here is difficult, every extra gram of equipment is too much to bear. heaviness, as you approach the top, it becomes more and more difficult to breathe, the concentration of oxygen in the air drops so much that the body begins to die, it is not adapted to existence in such conditions, inevitable

death occurs in a matter of days, only a few hundred people in the world are able to climb summit without the use of additional oxygen, but even they... there is no guarantee to return alive. russian athletes of the freeride project in the death zone are doing oxygen-free ascents while filming a film and alpine skiing in order to go down the most dangerous slope. the main team members are vitaly lazo and anton ugovkin. this time their goal is broad peak. although there is a more ambitious task. we had a break year, the twentieth year, well, a lot happened, an eight-thousander, just here

, in the karakum mountain system, there are several of them, there are four eight-thousanders, so there is a plan after the brawl peak to go to another one, at with the right tactics when planning an ascent to broad peak, you can obtain the necessary acclimatization for a quick, successful and safe ascent to k-2. this is to put it mildly, well, no, there is no fear, no horror, yes, but there is a gigantic uncertainty , whether we will succeed or not, well, i highly doubt that anyone will give you an affirmative answer, but everything is okay with me, it will work out, very powerful , beautiful mountain. for now we just watch and lick our lips. k2 is still more difficult to climb. more than eighty climbers died in its assault, almost every fourth. we gathered for it after

the broadpeak, when our body is completely ready for it. and even at home, making plans, we understood that everything could change. but they couldn’t even imagine what would actually happen . in order to at least slightly reduce the risks of climbing an eight-thousander, proper adaptation to the highlands is necessary, acclimatization, preparing your body, climbers gradually gain altitude. having ascended to the first high-altitude camp, they spend the night there, after which they descend. the next stage is the second high-altitude camp descent down. then the third - a week's rest at the base camp and an assault on the summit. if you go up the mountain without acclimatization, there can be very

disastrous consequences, even fatal. therefore, the body must be prepared, prepared very carefully, the very start of acclimatization is important, take your time, gradually gain altitude, rest on time, and in general, we usually go to the mountains together with anton, we are no longer just colleagues or friends, for me he is like part of the family , i can even trust him with my life, on the last expedition... to nanga parbat we were joined by an experienced italian climber, snow leopard cala cementi, and he was able to seamlessly join our small team. we became real friends and wanted to invite him this time too, but he had other plans. therefore, we announced an international competition for a place on the team. the applicant had to be a good skier, have high-altitude mountaineering experience, be able to work on camera, and, of course, be pleasant to talk to. thomas lohn from

norway won the competition, hello vitali, hello anton, my name is thomas lohn, and i'm from norway, a couple weeks ago i returned from antarctica, completed the program, your past expeditions are very impressive, ski descent from 800 m, alpine-style ascent, this greatly attracts me, we only communicated on the internet, but i immediately liked him, such a positive experience, for me, the main thing in mountaineering and especially on the eight-thousander, which i read about. and after completing the seven summits program, i decided to return this year. i hope i can reach the summit together with vitaly and anton, without the use of additional oxygen, and then ski down from the top. thomas

is a strong guy, very positive, cheerful, in some ways he even resembles a kala, in general, over there behind the pilot, do you see the tracks? yes, when we reach the two stone towers, we turn left, okay, this is the longest part of the path, okay. it takes longer to walk along the rocks than we think, you see, there’s a small gorge there, yes, it’s quite gentle, we should traverse towards the glacier and go skiing there, i hope , oh well, i’m sure it’s possible, we

still have... there were no acute situations, so exactly the same, where, but so far the prerequisites are very good, of course, our age difference is very large, and well, sometimes he behaves like a youth, but despite this, it seems to me that we understand each other, we do the same thing, of course , he is good enough to be a son for me and anton, i wish my eldar had gone to the mountains when my son was, but it turned out that i took away his love for nature, but at some point he called me and said: “dad, i want to go to elbrus with you,” in the end we went to elbros from the north, but the weather was bad and we we only climbed to 4700, after which he said: dad, thank you very much, i really

liked it. well, i'm ready, almost,

ready, one shot, sorry, friend, 4:20. hello, hello, anyone in touch, welcome, as usual, kamchatka, well , that’s it, we’ve settled in a tent, now we’ll do this... this is how we eat and drink on a gas burner , prepare tea, so carefully, eat

freeze-dried food, here altitude 6,200, you’re not eating anything, i’m sitting alone eating, that’s all, have you eaten? yes, a little, and then i threw up. and what happened. some kind of groundhog day, food, cylinders with gas, go downstairs, rest, 2 days

of rest, again again, masochism. but we like it, pleasant and useless, and the question is that yes, when we return, we feel a little different. we just made the first descent of the season from 7,000 m. and the first for you, the very first. also, this was the first night at tomos without oxygen. did you sleep without oxygen? yes, yes,

but actually i didn't sleep. let's call it a dream, a fire, just a boom. this is thomas from norway, israfil, israfil, nice to meet you, where are you from? international camp, yes, very international. i'm from kamchatka, do you know kamchatka? yes, yes, we have a gift, this is a russian gift for you, the best

canned fish, sardines, the best product on the planet, i hope you koreans will appreciate it, thank you, thank you, i thank you, the pull that the mountains have in their strength, it is so powerful, that age is certainly not a hindrance here, and physical indicators, especially since a korean expedition is now working on this mountain, the leader of which does not have fingers in his hands, this is for him, but for you dangerous if you do not follow these rules, you can get into a difficult situation, this is what our young and adult climbers, as well as mountaineers, must remember.

with a disability, you only need to go to the mountains prepared, of course, in the mountains you are faced with a situation, i injured my hands, let this serve as a lesson for others, now what seems simple to other people is difficult for me, but doing mountaineering, i don’t experience difficulties, when i walk down the slope, there is a feeling that someone is filling me with strength. it's all in my dreams and thoughts, i can't do it explain, i always feel comfortable , compared to ordinary people, our project, we descend from a height of 800 m on skis without oxygen, i saw three people yesterday, yes, yes, that’s us. what's your plan? come in?

on november 7, they woke us up at 6:00 in the morning, lined us up, and the commander announced that you would participate in the parade. the parade was actually a harbinger of the coming attacks on the germans, who drove them away from moscow. 1941 parade on red square. tomorrow on the first day, they calmly said, we’ll smash them anyway, the season premiere, well, here’s the mayor, so far so, how they say, i’ll gain experience from ivan petrovich, unless of course he doesn’t mind, actually i’m against it, kovalev is a knowledgeable, experienced employee, i’m ready to work under him, i’m working with you, only he arranged a circle of radio jealousy for me, he says, i’m with kovalev winked, this is how we have a new murder,

we are slowly going crazy, have you found something? no, but where, i won’t bother you, he’ll drag us all down with him, maybe he was once a brilliant cherkasov, but now, well, he’s just a stubborn old man, but can i spend the night with you, don’t trust, don’t trust anyone, brains , the last thing, first anton, what is this anton, yeah, what is this, i don’t understand, salo, rusian amo, zalo, salo, zalo, salo, salo, zalo, in camp two we have a tent for three, it’s very low

, so we have to lie like this, in the camp there are three double tents for three, usually i sleep on the right, vitaly is on the left next to all the gadgets, and anton is in the middle , jack, with his feet towards us, with three people in the tent a lot of condensation is generated, the tent is set up like this that for some reason, thomas, you take up too much space, move away. it’s fun, as i say, of course, we had a language barrier, after some time i even learned a few russian words, it became a little easier, which means today we have for lunch, from thomasaf, esstuf, now we’ll open liver caviar menta, wow

, you definitely won’t, i will, for sure, i definitely will, that’s how we fry the snow , fry, fry, steam, then his sick pakistani, as they say, he was very tense yesterday, when leaving here at 7.000 all night and day lies and does not rise, apparently it will need to be evacuated down, it looks like pulmonary or cerebral edema, pulmonary edema is cerebral edema, provoked by oxygen deprivation, you need an injection of methosone, thomas, let me carry my backpack here, bring anton’s backpack and

first aid kit, a red bag, dexsometosone, right? a hormone that slows down pathological changes caused by mountain sickness. gore with one person about the high-altitude porter mustafa, who had to be brought down. vitali gave him oxygen and deximethosone, they took part in the rescue, but there is a completely shocking moment. when they decided who was with him goes down, who goes to the top, i got in touch with one person at the top, the answer was to get here, we spent all our money, we are not ready to help, down, no talking, down, down, don, vitaly

here, i i’m listening, vitaly, the guy feels better, he, he’ll come down from farman. will descend with oxygen. that's it, end of connection. it was a nice hunt, today the descent was

absolutely super, tell anthony, i really didn’t expect this. and 2 hours of excellent skating in such conditions is fantastic, these are my beauties, very cool survivors, and anton liked them, plague, it’s just that for dinner there should be roast lamb, for the second, for the first borscht, and dry white gras, here’s a little after, perhaps enough for... yeah, all this together with kari. i looked at my descent line, it was absolutely excellent, but pure bliss, i wanted more, i just couldn’t wait to get back on the slope. isaac, do we have hot water in our tent? sasaak

ali, i am from baltistan, i am 43 years old. i work on the balttor glacier in the north, in winter i relax at home with my family, i have four sons, one daughter, my job is to cook food at the base camp, this year, but now there are only four, one assistant, one waiter. one prepares water and washes dishes, a kitchen tent, a dining tent, an office tent, here are the dishes, the dining table, they, they will go to the top and are going to ski down it,

we watched, it looks very interesting. local people call these mountains karakaram, in the mustak region there is a river that flows towards china, this route was part of the great silk road. many people, british, chinese, including russians, there was even an embassy in the gilgid region, our raja gave the russian ambassador a sword, and the russian ambassador gave it to pakistan, we use this samovar for tea, most of the people of baltistan, more than

80%, depend on the tourism economy. there was no expedition in 2020, it was difficult for people, one day one of my employees came to me and asked for a loan of 10 thousand rupees, saying: “aakbar, for me” the expedition is an opportunity to earn money and feed their families. our people work as support with independent climbers, with groups; sometimes participants in commercial expeditions do not know how to secure crampons, but come to climb on k2, in these high mountains, it’s sad, coming to such a place, it’s worth it. this is completely different from a picnic on the beach or some easy trip.

people hope that high-altitude guides and porters will help them in everything, and it happens that after making the climb and returning home, they tell everyone how they conquered the peak, without mentioning that this was done thanks to local people, so i climbed k2 . or broad peak or another mountain, people pay money to them, they do services, people climb mountains, it’s great, it’s in general, it’s great, every expedition is accompanied by locals, cargo delivery is not always possible with pack animals, so some of the things are carried by porters, porters, these are simple guys from the villages, the only thing a porter does for service is processing the route, it’s all in a complex. in the end, it makes climbing a certain city, the same everest, well, a rather simple event, on this mountain where we are working now, well

, at least half of the clients, we will call them clients, these are people who paid money to be taken together on this mountain, before it was basically impossible , in fact, but you have to think a lot with your head, first of all not... your legs, not your arms, but your head, you ’ve been in such harsh conditions for a long time, and you have to have certain skills and, most importantly, accumulated experience, shows that the best day for the ascent is sunday, july 17, it will be clear, there will be some clouds , the wind speed in the morning will be 15 km/h, then 5:10, i think this is the best day for the assault, and i i think we act like this, camp two, sleep, camp

3, sleep, camp 4, summit, in a few days before climbing, i don’t like such events, but i still decided to go, and when the meeting had already begun, mr. kim also came to us. for mr. kim, broad peak will be the last, the fourteenth eight-thousandth peak, we hung up a lot of slots, but i’m not sure that mr. kim knew about this, he thought that high-altitude porters did it, we ’ll argue a little intensely. i think serious preparation is necessary, since this is not just

a walk, we, but also mountaineering techniques, i have accumulated a lot of information about the mountains, i think as important as it is not to make mistakes during lifting, the main thing is not to harm your body. like i did, many people cause physical harm to themselves because they know little about mountains, about climbing techniques, are you ready? i think so, try to climb before 18:00, come down, maybe, maybe we'll make it, we'll see, thank you, thank you, see you after the climb,

bye, bye! what do you say, how do you feel? i'm freezing, i'm freezing, where? it’s cold everywhere, we decided to rest, but it looks like we need to start moving again, and you know why, why, because here... on you have ski boots and no down suit, great plan, hi mr. kim, good morning, how are you, good, good luck, everything

is fine, what happened to them? usually they left the connection, but didn’t understand. it must have been 20, 24 hours already. very tired, people there have no food, which means no energy, this is not good, the koreans are at the top, hurray, i was waiting, everything is safe here,

no, they say. everything has to be safe, i can’t stay on top for long, it will be easy, i have to, i have to survive.

7,700 photos. yes, thomas is a little tired here. ok, thomas, let's go, thomas, let's go, move, move. thomas, do you know the difference between mountaineering and regular sports? no, you never give up. on the eighteenth, around 23:00, the three of us, me, anton and

thomas, go out to storm broad peak, take filming equipment with us , we took a drone, skis, the weather is good, the forecast is very good for the mountain, i had some kind of premonition, very bad, i even told anton that i had some kind of premonition of death, that i didn’t like it, i didn’t want to go. i won’t say, we ourselves were in no hurry, it was hard for ourselves, and some of us had to wait, plus we were still a little more immersed than everyone

else with skis. it’s terrible, it’s difficult to hang the ropes there, there are five different ropes that have accumulated over the previous years of climbing, some ropes look normal, i fastened the jumar there, started to climb, and after 2 months i saw that the rope was coming off. that we are on top. the so-called death zone,

unfortunately, is clear to the top, so close that you can touch it. but we have to go down, we only had 2 hours left until the top, but think about everything soberly pros and cons, it was obvious that we would have very high risks of descent, so what were the guys there, there was mr. kim, and so, well, they decided to continue climbing, i reached the saddle, strapped on my skis and went to camp 3,

of course , we were exhausted and went to rest. i remember how i looked at the saddle and saw a chain of people, thought, said that we have a problem, quickly talked about how people were stuck at the top, very high, on the mountain, next to the saddle, someone said that a russian girl fell into crack on rope. you know, everyone is very tired , but we need to find a leader, try to find

people who are less tired, use oxygen, go up again, try to find the girl who fell apart, so that other people can come down too. end of communication, you must find out where mr. kim is, when the porter comes , talk to him, ask the other porters who are going down, second, when he comes down, tell him to meet the guys so that they go down to camp 3, they took oxygen, woke me up, because some screams behind the tent, i didn’t understand how long, in general, i thought it was deep night, as it turned out later, it wasn’t tomos’ name , they said rush and girl fell down, that is, a russian girl fell, we need

to organize a rescue operation, for the drums, i need to learn from larisa how to manage to press any button and still make everyone happy. sing the star, season premiere, tomorrow on the first. old barrel cognac is a product of stellar group. you look at the patador, changes all social rules, he knows no prejudices, wearing a carnival costume, everyone can feel themselves in a role that is impossible for them in everyday life, this is the time for the fulfillment of hidden desires, the carnival for me is therapy,

my psychoanalyst’s name is carnival, there are no social differences in the carnival, life is so complicated, we have no reasons for the holidays. but suddenly the carnival comes, people start dancing sambol, it’s so wonderful, living the carnival in rio, matador, fever in rio, on friday at the first, when you go to the sambodroma, it ’s crazy, it seems like the blood is boiling in your veins all the time turns over, yes. thomas, in general, i don’t know how long the rescue operation will last,

we need spare jackets. we take water, a first aid kit, yes, we need medicine, adrenaline, and give us a jacket, okay, what kind of jacket do you want, yours, i only have the blue one, okay, give me the blue one, we were trying to find out who fell, where he fell, with by whom it fell. what condition the person is in, what kind of help is needed, and so on and so on and so on. don, don, tell me how many people were injured, nastya lost her temper, while she is the only one injured, we are not we know if she was injured and what condition she is in, we only know that she fell below the saddle on a steep rocky area, it is tight and no one else can use this rope to rappel, that's all

we know so far, no other information about her no condition, she doesn’t answer, somewhere they walked from tent to tent in the desire to get oxygen and other things in order to go up to potentially help remove nastya from the ropes, i knew that these guys would help up there, vitaly went around all the tents, it turned out that there were no three in camp no one who would like to take part in these rescue operations, the guys will be alone on the mountain, their strength is clearly not enough, we are moving up, welcome, okay, okay, most people here are impressed by your actions, thank you

very much, this is very dangerous, night, it’s already two o’clock in the morning, the base camp is on our ears, it’s clear that... on the mainland too, not everyone is having fun, the mask, the cylinder, the one we’re shaking now, we’re carrying, i’m injured, we fried them here, with anton.

it would be completely sour, this is a real drug here at altitude, also somewhere high 7-300 was 7,250 and information began to arrive that nastya was moving in our direction, accompanying, everything was fine with her. hey, that's it, she's a beauty, so

whole, okay, again? we are following you, where? so, anton, i found it, so, you can go on your own, yes, no, okay, normal, everything , scary, right, but this one, it’s right, that’s right, but he can also go on his own, yes, he, i just fell, and i just fell, yeah, so, now, wait, then , because here he was already lying, damn it, this is not childish jokes, in fact, the base, the base, hovered, reception, the base is listening to the reception, man, but there was no adequate answer to the questions, the speech was slurred. the voice disappeared, i began to move down from the nastya, at this time i heard

vital’s cry that he was taking out the cylinders and going upstairs from the scam, and this is the latest information that we received already, probably at 4:00 in the morning, at five , about the fact that - a korean climber, a climber without fingers, without a single finger on his hands, also in the evening, on july 18, fell somewhere, so tell me what else is going on up there. after you already and i’m thinking, well

, let’s do it, it’s neat and clear be careful, let's be careful tourists, damn it, let's get down accordingly, i went from nastya down to the dressing camp, i went as quickly as possible towards the fourth camp and further in search of mr. kim, it’s unusual for me to see myself in a mask, but tv, i’ve already been on my feet for the second day, and when the bell rang to save the work, anton and i went out and, well... having saved ... the russian climber, it turned out that it turns out that the korean climber was in a more deplorable state, and we were not yet technically ready for carry out rescue work at this height

, because they were going to another event, rescue from anastasia. well, when you go up to camp 4, there should be koreans there, they should share with you everything they have for rescue operations. okay, we’ll organize a rescue from the crack, i’m going to mr. kim, that’s it, the end of the connection, they need you upstairs, you’re a great man, so, is the weather getting stronger? any climber in russia who studies and advances through the rank grid receives a mountain rescue token. during all these procedures, a person is taught to provide assistance

to another person on a vertical relief, well , approach the person, provide some help there, then. the ascent or descent of the victim, in this case, vitali knew where he was already going, he went to the fourth camp, collected a bunch of zhumars there, even found a block video, in principle there were no questions about the equipment, and then we look at the groove, this kind of busha is being cooked, yesterday there was an emergency descent here, one person fell here, they say he was cutting himself. well, not to death, well, in general, a very good find, now we’re taking this crush with us natalie helped porter hussein, this a high-altitude rapist who walked all the way with mr. kim and

, as far as i know, one of the other porters who also came there at that time, from the fourth camp. after the ascent we descended, it was between six and seven o’clock, there was a russian girl , she also came from the top, she fell to the chinese side on a rope, i looked down, she was hanging there and said, help, help me, i... asked her: how are you, okay? she said: no, no, it’s not good, i’m dying, please help, i then called one guy, they threw a rope to the girl and they began to pull her out, the three of us were saving her,

and then i saw mr. kim descending along the same rope. i tell him, this is not the way, why did you go there, and he replies, everyone has left. i was alone, according to ital hussein, he couldn’t do anything, because before that he had just pulled out the russian nastya, they saved nastya first, and then, as i understand it, they just waved to him, mr. kim goodbye, or maybe they didn’t wave , we just thought so. and a man was thrown there, about 14 or 15 people

walked down past, i cried, please please help us, help us, but they said that they couldn’t, that they were tired, that they had a headache, they said and left, of course, everyone there was tired, everything is clear. someone was just barely moving there, that’s not what we’re talking about, what we’re talking about is just take this damn inrich, type a message, the height is such and such, mr. kim fell, you need help, a device with detection and transmission functions location, reception and transmission of sms messages. and this could have been done back at 20:00 pm, at 80 pm when he

got there, and not at 5:00 am the next day, there were radio stations, some of them went down, some didn’t, well, 15 people, almost everyone had an energy source. he stood on a snowy ledge completely alone, i don’t know what he was thinking about in those moments, especially when everyone abandoned him, he stood there for hours, hours, hours, it ’s incredibly sad, most likely he was scared to death, and we, too, at the base the camp was also scared, the rock was huge, steep, difficult to pull. it’s very difficult, i asked, mr. kim, what should i do, i can’t handle it,

then mr. kim said: go down to the fourth camp, it’s settled, i was able to tell, that mr. kim was in big trouble, and then we went upstairs again, we. we found oxygen, anton will rise and meet you at camp four. it was decided that i would collect all the oxygen i could find in the camp and move up to them with it. i really don't like this situation. i don’t want to be here in camp three alone. it's warm and sunny here now, but it will get dark in a couple of hours. i don’t have a flashlight, because i gave mine

to anton, communication, gadgets, they promise a very strong wind for tomorrow, i think i ’ll boil the water now and leave an oxygen cylinder, i'll prepare a tent and first aid kit. they will have hot drinks, and i still have 3-4 hours of daylight to go down to base camp, i will be in no danger. good luck guys, i'm off. reception, reception, i hear you clearly, speak. say, okay, that’s it, they found kim, my healthy one is standing on the shelf

, waiting for him to be pulled out, for all the signs of normal life, as i understand the reception, i accepted, finally we found mr. kim. but the weather is good here in the chinese side, this is a chinese country, you know, the weather is good. and it’s not so good on the pakistani side, have a drink, i’ll help you, carefully, like

this, come on, the cornices here are so hefty , well, leave me a little, if it’s good, i’ll drink a little too, ah, ah, when vitaly came out communication and radioed, i see him, he waves to me, the entire headquarters tent exploded with cries of joy, people hugged, because they didn’t think that he

could be saved, but we had no idea. what will happen next, and there is a chinese slope, about 70° steep, very steep, snow and ice, it’s just a miracle there’s some kind of a shelf about two meters, literally very small, on which he, miraculously... got caught, stood there waiting for help, he had already stood there for about 14 hours at that time, adjusted his glasses, put on gloves and he asked to put on another special iron device, this is the first time i have seen this, but this is due to its features, and a special plate

was attached to the wrist, very tightly, i asked to fix it directly, tightly, tightly, and he very deftly, quickly grabbed the jumar, and the cam device that allows the rope to move and catches him once rope, well, mr. akim has been prepared, he has a noose here, well , prepare the jumar like that, it will help a little, i’m on the jumar now. i’m going upstairs, we’ll use a pulley to get him out of here, from this beauty, look, well, over there we need to drag him into this crevice, the pulley is a rope rescue system, which i’ve done many times and i can assemble it with

my eyes closed. guys, are you two? stand here and pull, just not this side, this way, okay, pull at my command, get ready, well, here’s a pulley, almost on 800,

mr. kim, start! give me this rope, give me this one, okay, pull, okay, pull, no, no, no, this one, i told you, pull, yes, yes, yes, yes, okay, that's good, well this is how the system works, e. agent devi, mayor gru, he, on the instructions of beria , obtained the secrets of the atomic bomb, was betrayed,

miraculously escaped, escaping with his family to the soviet union. his son became a famous writer, but disappeared from the radar of journalists, an international man of mystery. for sasha sokolov’s eightieth birthday, today on the first day, i was just returning home and thinking, i was thinking about life, don’t say anything, but life is wiser than all of us who are living and wise, hello, you love me, and since you love me, you must listen to me, you will obey, right? temperamental people live in this house, look, oh, shadow theater, well, at least he thought about his father, and you’re thinking about him, the person needs to be intimidated or moved to pity, yeah, this night will end in

the police, i feel it, good evening, son, and how, dad, blood, i said, what’s the matter, nena, great joy, listen, brother, where have you been, on you? i can’t look, i just want to cry, you won’t be with me stand on ceremony about this, you don’t need me, you rubbish, get out, well, in general, i’m glad that i came to you, but i don’t want to be your brother anymore, you are wonderful people, what, eldest son, next sunday on the first . okay, i understand you, the anchor is on the rock, now

the most important thing is that you and the guys go back down, welcome, i’ll try to look, but there are no options. no options, okay, okay, we're working to make sure you have all the support possible, come down, the main thing, the main thing is safety, okay, that's it, it's over connection, okay, i understand. sorry, mr. kim, mr. kim lost his temper, mr. kim, mr. kim lost his temper, have we lost mr. kim? yes, i'm

very sorry. simply incredible. but that’s it, we need something to drink, bring you water, no, tea, hot

, now let’s go here, hot, tea, or water, water, come on, okay, i’ve been in trouble for a while now. i think i’m ready for it, on the one hand, uh, i really wanted

to live, guests. i understood that i want kyn, yesterday, yesterday i realized that i don’t want to die, i want to live.

this is the scene of a rescue operation, are you ready? what he said, he said that he was glad and that he was very grateful to you, this was the last peak, he does not understand what happened. but you came to save me, and he says thank you very much, it is very important to make a safe point for the anchor, i am 100% sure that the place was chosen correctly, it was a snow platform, very strong, on a rock on

the pakistani side, here is a police station, a belay station i made two interlocked loops on the stones on the ridge, secured both ends of the rope to it and threw it in the direction of mr. kim with a large loop, i went down to him, passed the rope through his carabiner on the belay station, blocked it, one end of the rope is fixed to the belay station, we must pull the second, raising the gimo, one movable block is the kimo's carabiner through which the rope passes, i wound up the pulling end in the roller attached to the belay station, a carabiner, which in turn was located on the jumar, with the help of which we drag the pulling end of the rope, near the roller another jumar was attached to the rope, this is blocking

the reverse motion of the rope, in principle according to there were no questions about the equipment, the question was about the rope, we used a korean rope for lifting, who doesn’t know, this is a twisted rope made of fishing line, very light, but very fragile, it is more than enough for organizing the railing and moving along the railing for one, two, three, but working with a non-policy policy is extreme and not recommended, but there was no other way out or options. we started pulling one, two, three, those, one, two, three shadows, and somewhere, maybe 7 meters, well, 7-10 meters, everything was going well. we

pulled, felt the rope, yes, it was under load, everything went fine, at the exit, at the exit from the crevasse, i attached an ice ax so that the rope would not rub against the snow, yes, yes, yes, so that the snow would not rub, then we pulled, and i felt the load on... the power end was weakened , there is slack in the rope, it is not tensioned, the power end has slack, this means a problem, that is, a problem below, there at the victim, the command stop. we begin to slowly insert the rope down to

its normal state. the plan was to tighten it up a little, then i will go down the rope and see what happened. if necessary there i'll fix it, i'll go upstairs again, we'll start choosing it. i went down, somewhere about 5 m, i saw mr. kim, i shout to him: mr. kim, kim, but he doesn’t react at all, i see he’s there somehow, well, he’s squirming, somehow... -something is kicking there, i shout to him that... “stop, stop , don’t do anything,” well, in english, at that moment, he just turns to me, and there is a strong strong tug of my rope, but he and i are on the same page, i saw him

fly down, his legs were tangled ropes, he had a lifting device, the rope was blocked, it couldn’t slide through his carabiner, so he decided to somehow get out there himself and maybe decided to use old ropes, because there were a whole bunch of old ropes hanging there, how are they from ultraviolet radiation, i don’t know , like threads breaking, after 14 hours at 8000, a person can lose touch with reality and does not always accept the right ones. took every opportunity to get to the top, perhaps he decided to use these ropes and fasten your jumar onto these ropes, lift your fist, remove your jumar, due to this the slack came out and there was a dynamic blow,

a break occurred. i was very scared. i was scared because, well, this , i think, is quite normal and natural, because the rope on which i myself am was loaded, this destruction, it could happen above me, and the two of us could fly away, i sincerely want to thank you for saving me. this peak was the last, really the last, i made a mistake, but despite this they helped me, for which i very grateful. there was not

a single climber in this camp with so many regalia. and here the villainous fate chose just such a person. the coolest, the most worthy, the most strong-willed, he climbed all these 14 eight -thousanders without fingers, he lost his fingers on makinla in 99, and after that he began to walk on an eight-thousander, this is exactly the kind of person who ended up next to the kind of person whom we went to save, this saved man, and the team that saved this man, all those people who were nearby when they saved this man when they rescued the person...' they passed by and saw who was there, i decided to continue the climb, because a lot of effort was spent, and i didn’t see any great danger for myself during the descent from the top along the way

while climbing, a snow cornice collapsed beneath me, and i spent about four, probably 6 hours , i don’t remember exactly, in the chinese country, i was fastened to a railing rope, and literally a few minutes before i got out i saw that not well, literally there two or three meters from me mr. kim is located, my walkie-talkie was discharged, and due to extreme fatigue , due to stress, and i completely forgot this information, that in addition to the walkie-talkie i had, there was such a device as satellite communication, i did not use it to call myself help, to report that something happened to me, also i did not naturally report that something happened to mr. kim, but... physically i had absolutely no opportunity to help in saving mr. kim, if a person is enriched with such wonderful data as morality, humanity, and he

tend to lose them, for a reason, but for the reason of fear for your own life and putting your life as a priority, not a single mountain, not a single... a car is not worth sacrificing someone, that's all, i don't understand in general, how can people then... live with this, when they refuse to lend a helping hand, because they paid money, and the summit is more important to them than human life, this is some kind of nonsense, this is not a climber at all, the culture of being there is changing. .. previously , people who went to eight-thousand-meter peaks had trained all their lives in lower mountains. you

worked hard to become self-sufficient. you knew that if something went wrong in the mountains , the only one who could help you was yourself and your partners. everyone who went to the top had the strength and experience to be independent, but if something happened, they were ready to buckle down for you. this is what ideal... rescue work should look like, people like vitali, anton, hussein, they walked along the entire eight-thousander, descended to 7,000 m, turned around and went up again, just a superhuman effort, unfortunately, in in the mountains this happens less and less, after what happened, i just want to be away from people, there is a reliable friend with whom i go, on whom i can rely.

and that’s enough, but from our window, k-2, today we can see the mountain range, the karokara mountain range, this is our camp 3, which time we are already here, the third, third, we have the fifth exit, so two things, well, yes, well, why- then, oh, what am i like, yeah, this is not the easiest way out, thomas left us these flags. nepalese prayer prayers, not only the flags

thomas left us, but yes, the tent too, tent, down jacket, well, friends, we are getting ready for the assault force to leave, on the broad peak , we have to go out, what time do we leave at 19, that is, we go until midnight, then all night, and then