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tv   PODKAST  1TV  August 10, 2024 5:30am-6:01am MSK

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what a pure powder, i think i 've already stopped feeling, yes, drink some water, come on, i 've lost my sense of smell, c12 is the aldehyde that gives coconut, minerality to perfume, oh, here it is, coffee about coffee we probably need to tell, yes, by the way, yes, very often in stores they offer to smell coffee, because it seems to refresh the receptors, and i noticed that it doesn't work, here kirill confirmed my words, yes, it doesn't work. since this is another smell that also strongly, maybe even more strongly, burdens your nose, here it works only if you have smelled very few aromas and you just need to switch from the aroma that was previous, you smell coffee, because it is a familiar aroma, you switch and you can smell another, but if you smell a lot of aromas, this will not work, it is best to drink water, by the way, you can ask for water in stores, i think they will pour you some, or go with a bottle, well, by the way, it is not bad, i tell you, the cleanliness is just that... now an air freshener,
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because in many air fresheners there is a lot a lot of aldehyde, they are cheap, but in perfume compositions they are an integral part, here are any beautiful, expensive components, if you mix them and do not add something that will invigorate them, like bubbles in champagne, then they will not sound so beautiful, by the way, about champagne there is perfumery in which this champagne aroma is added, this is an accord yes, that is, with champagne nothing. it does not work or alcoholic notes in perfumery, what is it? often natural materials, and i really like this man-made, if gin ones like that notes, yes, i'll let you listen to the aroma now, here are the notes of majeveli, and how does an accord differ from an absolute, an accord is a combination of several elements, several ingredients, that is, to make a rose accord, you don't have to use rose oil at all , it's naturally not used in the mass market . rose oxides, citranillols, geraniols and
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so on, radinols, which can be mixed and get the aroma of a rose or geranium, under the guise of bulgarian rose, oil is often sold, namely geranium oil, well, by the way, this is not majevelic, but here are majestic berries, but there is a lot of everything, this perfume is called rashan soul, here is cognac, cognac is such a chocolate smoky, yes, that's nice, we talked about alcohol in fact in perfumery there are no restrictions, people often ask what can be mixed there, do these notes go together, do they go together, at least it will be how much can there be, how many notes can there be in one perfume, here yes, you need to separate the concept of a note and a component, the same note can be several components, usually in perfumes, well in medium ones in perfumes there are 30 - 50 components, a component is something like this, maybe. there are a lot of notes,
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different noses hear them differently, for example, you and i will listen to musk galaxolite or some other musk, you will hear apple notes there, i will hear banana notes, someone will hear soap, and as i understand it, they open up differently on the skin of each person, yes , differently, and on men and women they open up the same, well, it’s just different for different people, in fact, i don’t think it depends much on gender, it rather depends on the skin type, that is, on a man after all more masculinely opens up. let's return to our perfume laboratory. today we are deciphering the secret language of aromas , perfumers kirill khaikin and polina kazakova are helping me with this. and does perfumery have some seasonality, that, for example, in winter it is appropriate to use some aromas. now we have spring-summer, everyone is trying to choose some light spring aromas. is there such a thing or did we come up with seasonality. people, just and
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marketers, who and they are still associated with something summer or winter or springish, for example, the smell of vanilla, why popular in winter because we want to warm up, comfort, we want such warm hugs, for example, the smell of vanilla , such warm spices, leather, yes, a burning fire, it warms, if we want it to be the wind in our hair, a daisy dress, then these are some bright and fresh aromas. purity, explosive citrus, and what would you recommend for spring-summer 2024, for example, i brought a perfume called colon indilibile, it is a green perfume, purity, white shirt, i love to wear it very much in spring, in spring and summer, when you want to cool down, there are herbs, well, that is, it is so light, persistent enough, yes, it is not a role, greenery, but for someone it can smell, indeed we discussed here, maybe. smell like a white shirt, well
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, such an aroma of purity, yes, yes, yes, i can also show, recommend this perfume. it is called narcissus grove, it is actually a similar profile, because i wanted narcissus grove, what is there besides narcissus, and freesia, there is pepper, there is greenery, a lot of greenery, that there is grass, there is purity, there are these yellow flowers, a daffodil bouquet, i tried to make it less complicated, because you like these light and floral ones, well, this is for spring, that is, the first aroma. we listened about cognac, it is already heavier for winter, let me also give you a smell of the aroma, it is called cherryza, that is, cherry and leather, cherry and leather, it is quite aquatic, transparent, elegant, well , it emphasizes such a playful character due to
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the cherry, and the leather is rather not leather like a bag or a glove, it is more like human warm skin, very pleasant, and i remember that tomford has cherry, which i didn't like in... your cherry is just a real cherry, you've surpassed it, yes, tomfort, you've been surpassed, great, and why don't we, by the way, make a fragrance today that will correspond to the trends of spring, summer of the twenty-fourth year, in general, the trends now in perfumery can probably be divided into four or five main directions, perfumery really lightens its sound, if a few years ago everyone had niche perfumery associated with a dark liquid in a fl... these languid trails, with which it is impossible to be near, now niche perfumery makes much more transparent and understandable aromas from the point of view of use, comfortable, so let's think about what spring is associated with flowers, with greenery, i thought about how
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singing birds smell, how singing birds smell now, it seems to me that they have the aroma of some kind of rose. well, i don't know, maybe i was deceived, i was just in yerevan and bought some little ones on the street, they smelled incredible flowers, they said that these are snowdrops, pinkish-pinkish, maybe this is some kind of variety somewhere hybrid most likely forest ones don't smell, because i put them in small ones, they are small in glasses, my whole room is just like that i remember in childhood we had different forests, that is, you don't have snowdrops? no, there are no snowdrops, this accord also doesn't get anything from them, and there is also an aroma - melted snow, melted snow, the earth that appears from under the snow, this is wet also with greenery, it is called hyosmine, it is secreted bacteria in the soil after the rain, that's exactly what it smells like in the spring, this earthy camphor
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aroma, yes, there's probably also the aroma of fresh buds, and there's also the aroma of currant buds, by the way, this is such a marker for the russian consumer, it's very familiar to us, just sewn into our dna currant, yes, by the way, do you want to listen, i have this component, you can, you know, it's very risky, because there are some brands whose currant aroma sounds like cat urine, yes, and if they use it, it's most likely a natural component, and there are base cases base, a wonderful french base, which is already more perfumery, i 'll listen to you now, depending on how to play it up , you can also add honey to it, it will also smell like korshachiy deeds, yes, this green one is already without cats, and what's good about this base is that you can give it both the character of berries and
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green leaves? listen to this, this is called pa, this smells just like - any pink flowers, and what can we add so that it is not like this... a pronounced floral one, but so that there is something in it like this let's add some niche news, yes , let's add some cedar, texas cedar will convey the smell of this land, it's probably very beautiful, mm, it can emphasize the flowers, listen to it, it's not very - oh, yes, it's pleasant, it's even a little vanilla, and it's tobacco vanilla. it's like vanilla, oh, i like it, it also has a pleasant smoke, and let's add citrus to give life to the aroma, so, but we mix all these, yes, what we have, well, let me add some more
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functional ones, for example, i'll add musks, and what does functional mean, well, there is, for example, a body aroma, which is impossible to make without musks, it will simply be an incomplete perfume, not full-bodied. you know that musks - some people do not hear, when i was studying, it seemed to us that our teachers were making fun of us, they say: this is musk, smell it, they give us a blotter, they do not smell at all. and in order for the brain to create a new neural connection and we begin to recognize musks, you need to smell them 10-20 or 30 times, then the brain understands, you need a new create a neural connection, listen, are you sensitive to musk? by the way, i was recently at a wine tasting, i noticed that when you smell, let's say , a certain type of wine, when you taste it, you feel completely different notes. for example, you smell and feel the aroma of pineapple, and then you taste and feel vanilla, well, in different ways, here
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you have the same thing, by the way, you taste it, i taste it, as a researcher i taste everything, no, in fact, the same components, they can be used in flavoristics, this is the field that deals with planting flavors in food, that is, mango, for example, the same thing, it can be made in perfumery and here are vodka for cottage cheese in aranatizator, this can be done with one theme. by the way, i have mimosa and we can use it in our fragrance for spring, absolutely mimosa looks like this, and we will make it not very sweet, but something like this, it is basically green, listen, it smells like violet, yeah, but it needs a little bit, it seems to me, but this, by the way, is not that mimosa, we have mimosa... the fact that we give these flowers, this is generally acacia, this is not a meme, and here it looks absolutely exactly like a meme, it is also yellow, but
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this is not, these are not these cats, while polina is interfering, kirill, and tell me, are there any fragrances that never go out of fashion, in fact, there are so few types of new fragrances that here is how it laid down all some kind of archetype of fragrance, as for example at the end of the 19th century. so it is now used, for example, here are glasses, fragrances, we all know them as peasant perfumes, well, such a smell locker rooms, the smell of a razor, this guy, he invested at the end of the century, fougeres, here are chypres, they also originated around this period, a little later in the 20th century, this is not the soviet chypre, these are usually heavy aromas with patchouli, with rose. and these aromas are now evolving, of course, those mistakes that were once popular with us
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there in the 20th century, they are no longer relevant, well, for example, there is poison dior, this is a chypre, yes, now they have evolved and, for example, here is miss dior too, this is a modern chypre, fruity chypre, but the chypre has changed, but essentially the structure has remained, do we want to add pepper to ours - a spring scent, oh, i really love pepper, black, let's have pink, probably, yes, well, let's have pink, since it's spring, let's have it, it's a pity, i'm not writing down the formula, suddenly some brilliant scent will turn out, well , never mind, you and i remember what ingredients were here, we can forget about the proportions, this is tatyana gevarkyan and not bastard, together with me in the studio are young perfumers, kirill khaikin and polina kazakova, we analyze the scents by notes, learn about the main ones trends of this season, and how - to apply perfume correctly correctly, in fact, well
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usually on the usual this application, this is the neck, this is where the pulse, the pulse zones, as it is believed, it's all bullshit, where we want in fact, well where there are open areas that will smell, if the wrist is also possible, they are just a question of what else exactly the wrists, they can be warm and the perfume can be less persistent, and therefore you can apply it here on the back. hands, yeah, and here it will already be cold, the aroma will be more persistent, and it will be more convenient to show it to the interlocutor, that is, not like this, it is given as a gift, like this, yeah, they put it on the hair, on the hair too, yes, like on clothes, on the hair, the aroma is more persistent , that's it, but it may be less intense, and how to choose the right aroma, i always advise, of course, not to buy it right away, never buy it right away, because if you really like it now, it is not a fact that in 2 days you will take it.
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for example, i think that it is not the most appropriate gift to give perfume to someone, because it is very individual, well, if, for example, you know that a person uses the same perfume for everything, yes, and so yes, of course. we can think about what else to add there, we need to wash the receptors, so far it is very floral, very floral, yes i
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would like something like that, some brutality, you want to add, we will add vitiver java and you can add more. cedar yes it is important to say that the work of a perfumer is not these 50 components, but 700, i have 700-800, this is a big such step organ is called, and you should ideally know these components, guess them, take any you want, you know it, okay, if i, for example, want to achieve some uniqueness of aroma, is it enough for me to buy like you have these bottles for my home depending on my mood to mix on my skin yes it is quite possible, that is, i can like these. it is necessary to understand that these will not be perfumes anymore, since perfumes are a product that has certain functional properties, if you apply nerali oil on your hand, it is not a fact that it will smell there in at least an hour, that is, by the way, as perfume i once bought specifically aromatic oils already mixed, they had
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some such unique aromas that were not like anything else, they lasted very lightly , there was a trail, i really liked it. to the light florality we also added leather notes, amber and a little tobacco, very light, but they already give character, a very interesting aroma turned out, cool, yes, i think that here is the aroma - the trends of the twenty-fourth year , we are ready, kirill, and i suggest, by the way, since that's the case, mix - perfume, which we will call not a fool, i suggest adding some audacity there. of course, absolutely a fragrance that will mix the future and the past, well, like fashion, yes - this is a fragrance that depicts freesia, it's called ethylino, despite the fact that it is a classic floral, but there is something in it, such a slightly rubbery aspect, and we will add a lot of it, we will have perfume, there will be perfume about
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purity, i do this without scales, of course, we don't work like that, but we pour by eye, then yes... let's add bergamot here too, absolutely right, bergamot, well, everyone is familiar with it, tea with bergamot, everyone drank it, by the way, there is often no bergamot itself, it is synthetic , that is the work of the flavorist, then, let's add this, since we are talking about purity, i have already shown it, in fact, it is dupecal, it is the aroma of lily of the valley, in fact, such a lily of the valley is very fresh, rainy and spring, oh, interesting, it has such a sparkle, floral tenderness, therefore, and we will have a few flowers now, let's some audacity, hot, burning rubber or something we'll add, we can, we can do something like that, because fashion is still about a challenge, we can add ash, that's great, it will be evernil, and this will be oak
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moss, since fashion is cyclical, let it be reborn like a phoenix all the time, oak moss, by the way, was very often. that's exactly in such old perfumes, it's also salty, it's woody, so interesting, and we do unisex , yes, yes, we do unisex, of course, there is another component that is called and floral animalistic, that is, he will now give us severity to our natural flowers, these are cats again, these are not cats here, this is more like cow dung, this is indole, it smells like lily of the valley, fermented green tea, so rough , so rough, paints, we also add a little bit, so that we add feces and a painted fence, we will polish it all with aldehydes, flowers, yes, without embellishment, i would really like to add - a note of mimosa, oh, what is this, this is actually not only mimosa, it is also marzipan, powderatropine, and heletropin, yes, yes, good
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component, here it is like a little bit culinary, it is... this perfume smells like it, nogu, by the way, we also have it in the spring aroma, so we have beta, yes pauline, have you studied the art of perfumery, and are there any differences by... regions you mean are there preferences depending on of course there are preferences, but let's divide the market into two huge categories: this is the european
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market and the arab market, and what the arabs use in their perfumery is sometimes impossible to listen to in our latitudes, in their forty-degree heat, having applied the aroma to yourself, which will strangle us here, there it sounds pure, beautiful, wide, that is, of course, everything depends on... this is the place where either the norwegian style is used, yes, such a scandinavian style, such restrained, cold, cool aromas, in russia, probably, there are some markers that we all know, here we have an apple on the table, and there is a component that reminds us of a baked apple or a cup of coffee with a pie, like an apple with cinnamon, an apple with cinnamon is cool , great, yes, it sounds, that is, perfumery is naturally different, this is for us another ingredient. ready, well i didn't add a little something specially, so that later i could trace the effect, oh pleasant, and we'll add aldehyde, which we talked about at the beginning, now we'll trace how the sound changes, since i'm always for
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aldehyde, but i like the aroma separately so much that i realized that my option is to buy myself some, and by the way there are mono-perfumes that play up one single note, for example, take vitiver around it just those perfume components that decorate it were, but they still don't sound so noble, it's already mixed, yes, it's already with aldehyde, it became more sonorous, more floral, not so bright, yes, i like it now, really, this is the aroma, of clean clothes, yeah, and it just opens up and changes, now, yes, it's important, yeah, that's how aromas are not created, it takes many, many attempts, i had more than 120 of them in one aroma, yeah, that's why.
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ready-made compositions, well, not intended for layering, this is called when perfumes are mixed, yeah, otherwise you would you spoil the work of the perfumer, because one perfumer made one composition, he had one idea, and the other another, well, we mix two ideas and it will be a cacophony, yes, let's apply or, for example, they recommend mixing a molecule with others, well, by the way, this is possible, because it is very simple, it just can do nothing, just everything, oh, i really like it, yes, wise, just like that, well... they turned out to be just different and cool , we made them different on purpose, although in fact we have practically the same set of components, it turned out yes, because the spring issue is about we wanted to make spring, but from the same
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set of components you can make completely different ones, i think that even from ten different components you can make two completely different perfumes, yeah, it's all about balance, thank you very much, thank you, i wish you further creative success, to create as many interesting, unusual and unique fragrances as possible. thank you, well, friends, it's real spring in our studio, the perfumes are sorted out by notes, and i have two new exclusive fragrances very close by, if you want to know more about fashion, watch our releases on the website of the first, with you was tatyana gevorkyan and not lymshity. hello, dear viewers, as always you are watching the podcast triggers, with you is its host, psychologist, tatyana krasnovskaya,
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psychologist psychotherapist sergey nasebyan, our guest nicole, hello, good evening, tell us, please, what did you come to us with? you know, i have such a problem, probably, i have it since adolescence, since 12 years old. in adolescence , i developed a disease called anorexia, later i was diagnosed with this by doctors, nervous anorexia, and the disease sometimes appears, sometimes disappears, that is, it does not depend on any events happening in my life, that is, suddenly it is gone, suddenly it resumes again, it does not have any periodicity so that it could be tracked, and i learned to cope with it as best i could , learned to live, but here is my question, why did such an image form in my head, which i try to approach all the time, that
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is, this is a certain weight. a certain appearance, in another image, when i gain weight, or when i try, yes, if you can call it that, to live like ordinary people, with more or less acceptable nutrition, why don’t i like this image, why is the way i look so important that it affects my whole life, that is, and in my normal weight i don’t want to be a normal person, to exist, to act, to achieve something, only being in such a small, yeah, person, to whom i strive, i do something, i have more strength, more energy, more aspirations, desires, yeah, in general, help, if possible, and how do you achieve such a small weight? it's physical exercise, and this dietary restriction is quite strict, have you always
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been into sports? you did sports, yes, and to what extent are dietary restrictions, depending on what stage you're at, and if you eat normally, well, as far as i understand it, yes, normally, and i eat once or twice a day, well usually it's some kind of salads, some kind of, i don't know, there's meat, vegetables, everything is steamed, of course, nothing harmful, nothing fatty, ah, but when this... this next peak happens, i leave once every 3 days, once in 5 days, it happens that once every 10 days, you don’t want to eat or you just don’t eat, i don’t eat on purpose, that is, you feel hungry, but you try not to eat, yeah, on these days, how do you feel, you know, somewhere after three, well after the third day i don’t feel hungry anymore and i just don’t even think about whether there was food today or not, drink
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coffee, but it’s desirable that it be with some kind of plant milk, maybe one energy drink per day, and then with ice, something like that, that’s where all my food ends, and how old are you, 37, 37, you married, no, you have been in a relationship, you are in a relationship now, and i have been in many relationships, at the moment i have a very good friend who supports me, well, a friend, a friend, yeah, who surrounds you anyway? my mother, but we live separately, here is my friend, comrade, okay, let's do it this way, the last time there was, well, if this is called an attack of anorexia, then now it is going on, it is going on now, how long ago, since july of this year, that is, since july of this year you have been in an anorexic crisis, right?
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yeah, you're 37 now, how much do you weigh now, what's your height, how can i understand? my height is 1.75 m, at the moment i maintain a weight of 50 kg, 50, have you had weight fluctuations, how significant, when did it start, in june, in july my weight was around seventy, yeah, seventy, yes, i have a lot of muscle mass due to. it's even hard to say that i weigh 70, but at the same time, well, that is, i look 60, due to the muscles i weigh more, now i try to maintain 50, there are deviations, but i try to negotiate, and what is the lowest what was your weight? the lowest weight for all periods was 43 kg, yeah, and if you are in such good shape in general you feel pretty good
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at... right, well at seventy i don't like myself very much, well, what weight, when are you happy with yourself, it seems to me, right now, so what do i like you too, and where is the problem? and the problem is that people close to me are very worried about me, they are afraid that i can go further, although i know, like, well, a line that cannot be crossed, that's if. imagine that they sitting there in the back now, like in such programs with viewers, who is sitting there and worrying about you, my mother, and well, your closest relatives, perhaps, well, who is that, aunt, uncle, who is that aunt, uncle, my nephews, yeah, there they are all gathered there in the back and worrying about you, yeah, yeah, okay, let's applaud them, let them worry, your friend is worrying about you,

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