tv PODKAST 1TV September 9, 2024 2:35am-3:20am MSK
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and we still wear it, it's not so much the pearls that are important for her, pearls, like pearls separately, she got them just after the english, she began to wear them in a new way, again, yes, with woolen svyatoi, yes , just like that, she also stylized it in her own way, and in general, of course, what she first began to do, she began to mix jewelry with costume jewelry with t-shirts, yes, that was her main revolution, yes, that precious. means nothing, chanel said, pearls were incredibly expensive, that's until the second half xix century, then it also appears artificial, and this is already, but it didn’t seem to interest her at all, despite the fact that it is known that the duke of westminster gave her some fabulous jewelry, well, of course, but she also somehow easily mixed them, and she also had one passion - perfumery, in the twenty -first year she launched her own perfume line. also, by the way, a russian trace, this is our
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main pride, i would say, if you consider that the chanel fragrance number five is still the main iconic fragrance of the twentieth century, and this the only fragrance that lives more than 100 years, tell its story, please, grand duke dmitry pavlovich introduced chanel to ernest beaux, this is a great perfumer who worked for the rale company, rale was an outstanding russian perfume company, in general before the revolution. in russia there were very good perfume manufacturers, rale, bracard, rale were generally suppliers to his imperial court and russian and many european, they won many shows, that is , outstanding perfumers worked there were created outstanding fragrances, he was born in the russian empire, you can read in wikipedia that in moscow no, not in moscow, i personally saw the document where he fills in the passport data.
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with his own hand he starts writing deposits, starts writing moscow, crosses it out and writes warsaw, but warsaw at the time of his birth is also part of the russian empire, in this sense he is russian, his brother was also a perfumer, eduard, he also worked for the rale company, that is, this is a family of perfumers, outstanding people, incredible culture, just yes, these are real french by blood.
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person, but she understands who she is dealing with, of course, she could not miss an outstanding perfumer, when she wants a perfume line, it would be, of course, she orders him a fragrance, but she orders not just a fragrance, yes, she wants a special fragrance, something different, ernest beau uses those same synthetic aldehydes there, which were unstable, but what is the point of this...
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she chooses number five, he asks her a question, what shall we call this fragrance? she says, number five, an abstract name, then when she chooses a bottle, it is an absolutely simple bottle, laconic, just a black square by malevich, you could say, in general, of course, chanel is an analogue of this abstract art, abstractionism, but in fashion, in perfumery, in all this, of course, then they said a lot more about the fact that the source of inspiration... this bottle was a
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vodka bottle, well, there was so much there, but it no longer has any special meaning, it was also revolutionary, women's perfumes, they spilled into bizarre. century - this is the time of women, firstly, have no rights at all by and large, in order to get something in this life, especially if a woman is from very poor strata of the population,
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it is only with the help of men, there is a magazine, for example, even it was published in russia, the art of dressing, 1912, whose very first text. begins with the words, why you need to be able to dress well, because nine out of ten women can get what they want only through men, art pleases a man, the most important for a woman. chanel - this is a genius of networking, so she understood that she needed to do this, she did it through establishing connections. in general, there is a quote that is attributed to her, the world is divided into men and women, the former. it was necessary to conquer everyone, i was not going to become everyone's lover, but i wanted to be liked, and i knew how to do this until old age, these are not so much romantic stories, although they are also, as a strategy in life, conquests to the question of revolutionary, chanel remained true to herself in
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the sense that she is a girl from the poorest layers of the population, as we see it, cultural codes in clothing? aristocracies and cultural codes of clothing, the poor, they are absolutely different. chanel said, luxury should be comfortable. comfort has never been a concept of aristocratic fashion clothing. corset, yes, crenalins. all this, this is not about comfort at all, all these devices were related only to aristocrats at the dawn, yes, of their appearance, since the renaissance. because they carried themselves, they did not have to work, what does chanel do? chanel everything removes, she is not the first to remove the corset, of course, this is the work of paul poard, but in her clothes the corset is not provided at all, convenience, here is peasant clothing, it should be comfortable,
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functional, allow movement, work and so on, this is all she transfers to fashion, and makes it the lot of aristocratic clothing, this is an absolute revolution, and this is of course. chanel marked this great transition, now clothes will be for the person, and not the person, for the clothes on the one hand, yes, and we feel comfortable in these clothes,
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comfortable, like this luxurious poverty, they called clothes from chanel, the famous little black dress, but also... before she invented it, there were black dresses, what is the innovation here, i saw in life, i want to say that if now, here it was brought here, you would say that this is an absolutely ideal thing that can be worn today, here in 100 years, it can be worn in the form in which it was made in twenty-sixth year, it is a completely modern, ideal thing, ideal proportions, ideal comfort, were at dress designers, of course. there were - servants, black dresses, this dress, which were often found just in the middle of the aristocratic, and chanel in this sense, of course, again, it is a rebellion and a revolution, to make this dress like this, it was in the magazine
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vok, when it was published, they called it ford by chanel, ford black, a popular car, it cost compared to all the others, very inexpensive, versatility. plus, of course, the girls changed clothes five times a day, morning dress, then, that means, they go out, business dress, evening dress, tea dress and here chanel. offers a dress, like in a peasant, practically, somewhere in the environment, which you can wear many times, but arranging it differently. chanel changes the concepts of clothing, but as if she brings this functionality, convenience , this is on the one hand the lower classes of the working population, on the other hand the men's wardrobe, men's clothing, because men's clothing is functional throughout the 19th century, unlike women's, yes, everything is convenient there, therefore this approach to the men's theme.
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that all talented designers who create their own brand, they make an extension of themselves, and the brighter they show it, the more convincing it is for everyone around them. today we are discussing the legacy of perhaps one of the most famous couturiers of the 20th century, coco chanel. with me in the studio are fashion journalist olga mikhailovskaya and fashion historian elena eliseeva. but even when chanel had a huge success in europe, she had a failure in hollywood, when she was paid some
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fantastic money for participating in hollywood projects, and some kind of complete disaster happened there, her clothes turned out to be not, probably , not glamorous enough, so to speak, yes, not enough for hollywood, for cinema, for film in general, apparently too simple, you know, in terms of fabrics, in terms of everything, there needed to be texture, probably, it turns out that it didn’t work out with cinema, everything was great with the theater, well, with dyagenev,
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but also not so much, the blue express, which by the way was also not very well received, precisely from the point of view of costumes, although they were of course absolutely revolutionary, that’s true, but she didn’t do anything special on stage either, the costumes were like this, that's the absolute realism of the stage, also a revolution for some, that is, these are her costumes. everyday life, she transferred them to the stage, yes, they were specially created, yes, well, she didn't create them specially for she created them specially, but she was accused of the fact that they are no different from non-stage ones, yes, that they are exactly the same as sports ones, like bathing suits and so on, well, i understand that they were quite close friends with dzyagelev, so they were such friends that he practically died for her in her arms, she kept it, she was friends with them, apparently very much with everything.
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they bury it, since then her birthday has been overshadowed by this circumstance, if we sum it up, what does chanel's legacy include, the little black dress, yes, tweed jackets, pearls that are not worn as they should be, shoulder bags, two-tone shoes, two-tone shoes, these with black, beige with black socks, so that the foot seems smaller. super-fashionable ballet flats today, yes, in 2024, yes, yes, of course,
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of course, and in general she categorically rejected high heels, plus she also loved boots, that's what i really like, after all, for that time it was so unconventional, not for decent women, yes there were boots, yes, she loved boots, little boots, she said that especially when she got old, that they hid her slightly swollen ankle, although she was always thinner until the end of her days, yes i think... that even cardigans, generally knitted ones, and the lights themselves, what women wear, that's all, of course, this is all her legacy in fact, well, in general, the combination of black and white, yes, probably, these white collars, of course, of course, she started wearing pajamas, of course, trousers in the women's wardrobe, and she didn't have trousers in her collections until the end, yes, but she wore all those famous photos, just there with boris kokhnu with lifar on the beach, she's in pajamas, she's really in men's pajamas, she looks great, she looks
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amazing, just amazing, striped shirts , yes, striped shirts, of course, striped shirts, matrous - that's all, of course that's... that's what she started with, then such capes inspired by military uniforms, created, she was very stylish, why is everything that we've just listed incredibly fashionable today, in general there are designers who are inspired by the past, for example christian dior was like that, and for example, chanel is a designer who looks to the future, and in general this theme of battle, when she returned in the fifties, in the fifty-fourth. what she decided to do, now she will show, what is the most fashionable thing here, because the main confrontation of the fifties is chanel dior, and chanel terribly criticized dior precisely for his retrospectiveness, now trend watchers call it de-archiving, well, historicisms in collections and so on, this is fashionable today too, but chanel is really such a real
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modernist, she responded to the demand of society, society wanted to move. a woman wanted to work, wanted to not depend on men, she showed that beautiful can be different, sexy can be different, you can be any form and even the absence of any form, flat as a board, she said about herself, but if you want to be with this man, your charm does not depend on anything, the form is secondary, the content is primary, this laconic form of her clothes, she is absolutely. about this, among other things, that today, what dream does the house of chanel sell, from the position of marketing, this is no longer rebellion, then it was rebellion and innovation and some revolutionary ideas, everyone wanted to be ultra-fashionable, this idea of independence from men, but today we are all this we've already lived through it, a century has already passed, the thing
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fashion festival in moscow in 1967, and the house of chanel came here with a show, commentator, well now the house of chanel comes out on the catwalk, it's clear that this is a classic, this is clothing for people 30 plus, 1967, it's expensive, it's respectable, and really, in 1967 there are already models jumping on the catwalk, well literally, yes, that is, how they present the collection, and as for...
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after all, by and large, there probably isn’t a single woman in the world who, regardless of style, taste, social status, financial situation, every woman has some kind of thing, either it’s chanel, or it’s a chanel replica, or it’s something that completely copies chanel’s style, well , first of all, of course, there’s the magic of the name in any case, but... because there’s such a story behind it, and then lagerfield did, of course, well, from a marketing point of view, he did, well, how did he do all these so-called chanel codes, well...
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he modernized it all, it's impossible to preserve the dna of a great, brilliant designer, i 'm convinced of this, as laurent's son, well, who can continue the work of laurent's son? chanel, again, lagerfeld, this is a man who did a great job as an unarchiver, that is, he took the archive and made a variation on...
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spirit of rebellion, this is an analogue of what we see in the morzhel's smudge, yes, when this tattered, ragged, absolutely simple comes into fashion, yes or when prada, when something like that, some retro, some there... sweaters from grandma's chest intellectual fashion, when they tear up the traditional, familiar template, against the background of some crazy glamour, now please, nylon backpacks for the same money, that's about it, that same rich, luxurious poverty, well, in general, let's consider that today we made some kind of visionary prediction and let's see whether it will come true in the future or not. coco chanel said, fashion passes. style remains, we will not argue, but we will definitely discuss it. look for more about cult figures in the history of fashion in other issues of not bald. already on the site of the first.
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hello, this is the podcast easy money and i am its host mikhail khanov. we figure out how to properly distribute, enter, and even better increase the family budget, helps us figure this out, financial consultant alexey rodin. hello, alexey. hello, mikhail. i deliberately did not use the word create, because i i understand that the budget, it is always there , regardless of whether we want it, whether we manage it, increase it, control it, the budget is always there. what is a family budget? a budget is a plan for spending money. where both income and expenses are taken into account, that is, this is what relates to money, to our receipts, to our expenses, this is the budget, everything, any expenses in general, yes, of course, this
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concerns families, here we went to drink coffee on the weekend, this is on the way we stopped while walking in the park, this is in the budget, this is the budget, of course, an expense, it can be included in the budget, right, here in your experience, that it is not, let's say, a controlled family budget, and really little, if the family devotes time to managing it, it affects family relationships, of course, in order to achieve something there... in financial terms , you need to manage finances, and we cannot manage what we do not control, so we need to start, of course, with the budget, and regarding the family, by the way, you may have heard, in second place according to the results of the federal center for comprehensive medical research, research, in second place the reason for divorces is financial problems, and financial, in russia, yes, and financial problems arise because we do not necessarily, we have little money, we, we can simply manage them incorrectly, in
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fact. money problems are not only for those who have a small mind, of course, the rich cry and even more, it's just that the rich have more expenses, they need to be monitored in the same way as those who have small, small incomes, a personal budget differs from a family budget in some way , principles, for example, a certain young man or woman lived, did not grieve for themselves, having watched the right programs, having looked our podcast, among other things, decided to introduce a personal budget, they managed it perfectly, filled in tables, now we will talk about this topic about this, here a family happened, and a young man was found or there a girl in the case of a guy, then there were also children, so are the rules for introducing a personal budget different from a family one, not at all, the question is that here some additional goals will already appear, well, there is the education
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of a child, to give him an education, there is a pension, by the way, pensions, the creation of a pension, there are goals for one individual person, there some other family goals, taking into account the goals, we just build a budget, because we need money to achieve these goals, that's it, but globally everything is the same, we take into account expenses, we understand how much we spend, we plan these expenses for the future and distribute our income according to these plans, there is one small nuance here, do not forget, friends, when you plan the budget for the next year, it is necessary to increase expenses by the amount of inflation, it happens that people forget to do this, and then oh, and how is it, here in february i started spending more than before, well of course, because of inflation, after all , the horizon for introducing a family budget, let's talk about a family budget, it's a year, five, three, how much, well, the budget is made up for a year in advance, you mentioned children's education, it's a long-term goal, look, look, here, what is a budget, a budget is
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planning income and expenses. when we add goals, it's more like we're moving towards a financial strategy, it's just that a budget is a component of a financial strategy, great, great explanation, thank you for that they gave it to me because i was already going to talk about targeting, about long-term targeting, today we are going to analyze the budget and really, let's start with a call, because of course many of our audience have already tried to keep a budget, started doing it, someone even successfully keeps it, but everyone wants... then why am i doing this incentives and so on, today we are simply figuring out a tool called a family budget, you know how it is, as a rule, in investments there is such a joke: how to start investing, start like the same the most, how to correctly enter a budget, that is, in this case, paraphrasing, we can say that in order to correctly enter a budget, you need to start recording all expenses, all income, if you did not initially create a gradation
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by categories there ... these initial ones, they are definitely not good, not bad, they are as they are, and then you customize them for yourself. let's analyze this question, what mistakes, you, as an experienced financial consultant, encounter in your practice among those who are just starting out or even already constantly leading, what are the classic there are typical and atypical mistakes when managing a budget. the most important mistake is not understanding why you are doing this, you need
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to answer this question for yourself, why? and this could be setting goals, that is , setting goals in order to understand that i am moving towards it and i need to control the money, this could be some kind of psychological motivation, that is, you need to understand why, when we have an answer. to this question, we understand, our brain understands that we are doing the right thing, and accordingly, we take into account the money, we have everything works out, and this is the most important mistake not post what answers basically here on this first here this mistake, when there is no goal, how to stimulate yourself to behave, there is i recommend, there is a wonderful exercise in general, you need to describe yourself at 100 years old, better birthday at... 100 years old, here you are 100 years old, you describe where you live, what you do, who congratulated you, what you drive, how many children, grandchildren, great-grandchildren you have, what education they received, what they do, that is, as fully as possible, i am like this
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i do the exercise about once every 3 years, here it is important to describe yourself then you will understand what is for you, what you need in general, you will understand what your goals are, like when you look at this description, and just rewrite them you will see, here i am striving. for this, for example, i need, i need money to buy some house there, which i described, i need such and such an income, so that, to get this income there passive in the future, you need to create capital, well, these are already mathematical calculations, there are many calculators on the internet where you can calculate what capital is needed for a certain passive income, so you set goals, that's it, you see what is important to you, you know, it often happens that we set goals that are not specifically important to us, we focus on advertising, on... social networks, on some million-follower bloggers who drive good cars, we need to find what is important to us, let's take a more realistic age, let's take 70 years, because in our period you find everything in a fairly cheerful state of mind, while
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time is really a distant goal, to have time to save up for everything. let's take our dear audience, let's take 70 years, describe your day at 70 years old, yes, because you are still cheerful and happy, the blood in your veins is still boiling , believe me, and you want a lot, and there is an opportunity to enjoy what you have already achieved and even set goals for the future of what you have not yet achieved, how to distinguish - superficial, that is, other people's motivations, other people's goals from your own desires, well, here you just need to think about them, ask yourself question: do i really need this, and what will i get when i achieve this goal, the next question: do i need what i have achieved?
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today, yes, you are sad there, or it started to rain, you think, well, that's it, here comes the rain, or your heel broke, or you dislocated your finger, so you for yourself classify this emotion every time, from what it is about... yes, yes, yes, from your wife, from your children, as funny as it sounds, i assure you, you learn a lot about yourself, you even think, well, what can i and should i strive to get feedback, say my wife, when she is not working, sits at home, there is either my mother-in-law or my mother,
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who is there in general, we consider them dinosaurs, yes, try it, that's what we are talking about, about the fact that we need to talk and negotiate, tell me, dear, from your point of view, in what i am inadequate, i assure you, yes, here... i also encounter this, they roll out such a number of questions. so, mistakes in budgeting, point number one is the lack of goals and motivation. we figured it out. then, secondly, we are talking about planning a budget for the future, here the mistake is not to take inflation into account, great, you wrote it down briefly and clearly, always take inflation into account, but here the period is a year, yes, i think, there we take, well yes, at the beginning, when we make up the next year's budget we write out, then increase expenses by the amount of inflation, the average inflation in rubles is 8%, average annual, well, you can take it into account there, well, and even 10, so that it is enough, as they say. well, or is it better to stick to eight here, that's the question eight
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or 10, i don't mean from the point of view of whether to make a reserve here or not? everyone has a personal concept such as personal inflation, few people consider it, if one, for example, shops there in a store near home, and another in some premium grocery store, everyone's baskets are different, of course, of course, of course, here it is necessary, here you can count your inflation and take it into account, everyone should figure this out for themselves, great advice. yes, the next thing is to find a way of budgeting, accounting, spending expenses, income, the one that suits you. what a mistake, that is, you chose the wrong, not your, not your own way, for example, for example, you can write down every, literally every expense, and from this your head will explode in 3 weeks and you don’t want to do anything else, but there are people for whom this suits, here are those for whom it doesn’t suit, large... divide there by four or five funds to record their expenses for
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these large funds. if we are talking about developing further, yes, because in principle, well, if we do not go into details, then there is nothing complicated to start keeping a budget. yes, let's take a few small steps specifically to a financial strategy to... a financial plan, that is, let's say we have mastered the budget, budgeting, we have started to record it in a way that is convenient for us, yes , right step by step, by mistakes, we have motivated ourselves, why we did this, yes there, let's say, at the end of the month, if everything is good, we start buying ourselves some kind of goodie or fulfilling some kind of wish for all family members, yes, we can say that guys, if we are on budget, then we are 10% there, everyone chooses some kind of little treat for themselves and we implement it. a savvy person, indeed, needs
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to give our brain proof that we are doing the right thing, so we definitely need some kind of goodie for ourselves, by the way, you know, here's a goodie, when everything is good, and what do you think, what is the best thing to do so that when you go over budget, when you are clearly guilty of doing something wrong, tell me, when i ask this question, they immediately start to come up with stories like, for example, take some amount and put it aside, that is , this... money that would go to a wish, put it aside somewhere, and either take it somewhere to invest, or give it somewhere to charity, all these options, they don’t work, why, because if we simply put this aside sum, then our brain will say, well, yes, okay, we'll spend it tomorrow, if it's for investments, well done, you invested for a goal, if it's for charity, you did a great job , you helped the kitties, the kitties, so, an effective method, tested many times, but... you need to burn this sum that was set aside on the wish list, it
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sounds terrible, i've heard a lot of objections that i'm saying some wrong things there, but look, once again, alexey, let's say we didn't fit into the budget for a month, we were somehow guilty of something, that is, we did something is wrong, emotional purchases, yes, emotional purchases, we have no money left on the wish list or what, we, we have, we are out of budget. from the budget, we agreed with you that we have some kind of item on the wish list, where we thank ourselves at the end of the month for doing everything right, and we spent it, no, not it, we just did something wrong, incorrectly, some kind of emotional purchase, that is, we would not have led an attentive listener, and where did we get the money for a non-national purchase, from somewhere there is, well, they are, well, we have them, they are set aside at the very beginning of the month, we have to get rid of this money so that the brain understands that we have lost them
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irretrievably, but the best way to burn, physically, physically burn, that is, we take cash, cash that was supposed to be, what is called an incentive to love yourself, we gather all the wives, children, grandmothers and you are very right, it is better to do it like this officially, in my experience i had, well, once probably se, when people burned once, three times, sometimes two.
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an excellent method, and i believe that everyone should do it once in order to record it, because there are no people who are born with such iron financial discipline, there is not a single person, in general, i teach my children from childhood to work with money, each of me has a brokerage account, even three-year-old dani has one, and i sit down with each one, every month and do something, show, because yes, and it doesn’t matter, he doesn’t understand anything now, but he... to make it so that for a child a competent communication with money was as natural
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a process as brushing your teeth. what to do if you, let's say, started keeping a budget, yes, here, let's go from simple. complex you understand that you are catastrophically short of money to implement some elementary and ordinary plans, so what to do at this moment? let's assume that you have already optimized everything, optimized all expenses, and there is not enough, grow, grow, we cannot forever reduce our expenses, optimize expenses, but we can grow infinitely in income, no one us... limits, no one is to blame for the life we have, we make it ourselves, that's why, yes, of course, there are people who have a different opinion, but they will not grow, they will always sit in one place, that is, if you have a head, two arms, two legs, you breathe on your own, walk, eat food, there are no restrictions for
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you to grow in income, yes, well, and here, by the way, about mistakes, we are talking about it in the process, loans at... a very important point and i would like to stop, there are good loans, there are bad ones, a good one loans are the loans that are justified, can be justified, in my understanding, this is a mortgage at a low rate, again here you need to consider a mortgage at a low rate, yes, this can be a very good story, well, a loan that allows you to earn there a loan for a business, if the business pays off the loan and makes a profit, well, i have a very beautiful example, there is, well, in my life there was a laptop, which is going on sale this quarter, i don’t have any spare money, it was an expensive car, i mean laptop, and i know that i need it for work, it will bring me money, and that i will receive money at the beginning of the year, and this is what was said there about september, october, and this is a purchase, if you make it with credit money, firstly, now the grace period on cards
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allows you to insert such terms into the interest-free period, and this is credit money, you know, yes, there is a risk that you will not receive that income, loans are constant, and god forbid more loans to pay off loans, it's the same as taking pills to extinguish the effects other pills that you took before, you felt even worse, yes, well, really, that is, you can treat loans, what does this mean, something is wrong with the king.
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