as an analogue of a gene, but already about culture, about education, about information, indeed, this is a very good analogy of the country of dukins, how in principle can we explain the course of evolutionary changes, i will explain, let's imagine a joke, let's say i just made it up and tell it to my friends, if the joke is funny, roughly speaking, viable, what will they do, will they retell it further, maybe they will add something from themselves, the joke will become funnier, that is, a mutation will occur that will affect the increase in viability, here are already several forms of this joke told in different ways, simultaneously present, and the funniest one displaces all the others in people's minds, this is what we now see happening on the internet very quickly with the same memes, they appear, evolve, strengthen the most

viable, and this is exactly the same as the information recorded inside our dna changed. all possible forms appear by random selection, but only the most adapted to the specific conditions of what is happening now will receive the ability to change and reproduce further, to obtain new forms, and the rest will, unfortunately, be discarded. that is, it turns out that when you are watching us now, listening to us, dear viewers and listeners, and click on the repost

. in fact, i feel regularly, if we try to track some of our actions, deeds, desires, then in any case we run into their material, some kind of genetic or physiological basis, why do i want this way and not otherwise, why do i want to sleep now, to work now, we can do all this, well, in essence, digging deep, finding the reason, finding those little gears that lead to this, it's really... not only

my hobby to sit and look for such things in myself, well, probably even the main reason why i took up biology in the first place. thank you very much, egor, thank you very much to our viewers , listeners, may the force of biology be with you. you can find all the episodes of the schrödinger's cat podcast on the website of the first channel 1tv.ru. hello everyone, this is tatyana gevarkyan and the podcast ne lymshita, together with fashion journalist olga mikhailovskaya and fashion historian elena eliseeva, we are looking into the biography of coco chanel , looking for the russian trace in her career, and also finding out what her innovation was and what chanel became without coco. hello, hello, let's talk right away about the myths

that exist around the name of coco chanel, because, frankly speaking, studying her biography, it is very difficult to figure out where the truth is and where the fiction is, if you start right from childhood, then what myths exist and what of them are true, what of them is fiction, she is from a very poor family, very, yes, really very poor thing, lived in an orphanage for some time, yes in a monastery, yeah, because their father left them with their mother, there was another sister, then she was born, he basically everyone...

impressions of childhood, you can see all this in what chanel did, this story about how our clothes tell our story, including its tragic parts, this is absolutely about this. chanel really is from a very simple family, her grandfather was a peasant, yes, these are french peasants, they collected chestnuts and lived on this, you know, there is an image, there is a photograph of such devices. which were used to collect chestnuts, but so as not to slip, and such spikes in the ground, such cats, in fact, this theme of digging into the ground so as to take what is yours, this is what is very typical for chanel, on the one hand, she is from a very

simple, poor family, her father was really a merchant, it's just that then they moved, like, here's a grandfather was such a peasant, her father moved to the city and such... itinerant merchants, her mother was also generally a very poor woman, but on the one hand, this of course, what chanel was embarrassed about, on the other hand, this is what struck her in a way that probably few people in this life have, because this survival code, it was very powerful in her, so maybe this is just one of the details of the secret of her success, because many are surprised that really... a girl from a very, very poor family, without an education, yes, as far as i understand, who was engaged in the lowest paid professions that had nothing to do with fashion, then she started something sew, and she couldn’t draw, but

she knew how to sew, she knew how to sew in the monastery and they were taught to sew, well, she knew how to sew some very simple things, yes, i think some aprons, something like that, well, that is, some special... she didn’t have any talents, but she did have some artistic talent, not in the sense that she knew how to draw, in the sense that she turned all this experience of hers, these monastery robes, you know, black, into the main hit of the 20th century, nature created her as a woman of a completely new type, and i i think that this was the impetus, even externally, she was a completely new type, a type of the 20th century, thin, flat, tall, without... breasts, without hips, yes , like that, she kind of dressed herself, yes, and the fact that she began to take off her boyfriends, shirts, coats, raincoats, put them on herself, as a result she created everything that we wear now, she really made a revolution, it turns out that she understood that

she was a girl who did not meet the beauty standards of that time, so she decided that and why do some exist standards, why should they be in beauty, why should they be in fashion, why? there are some ideas, stereotypes about what women's clothing should be like, what men's clothing should be like, maybe that's why she decided to break all the stereotypes, that was her talent, that was her genius, after all, i think, another topic surrounded by different myths and stories, this is of course chanel and men, a lot is said about the fact that she actively used them in her career, and she is credited with: such a quality that she never she never parted with men on bad terms, she always, even parting with each of them, she somehow held them and said that we remain friends, later she could always somehow realize these connections, she was a poor girl, yes, in a monastery, she sewed

an apron, yes, yes, and then the monastery ended there for 18 years, yes she was in the city of moulins, somewhere she worked as a seamstress, something else, she even helped. in vichy she carried this healing water, and there she tried to make a career as a singer, well, in some small one, there she sang met this etin balsan, this is her first big major romance, she asked him for money, as i understand it, for some business of her own, for a hat workshop and so on, he considered it all nonsense, she was already involved in hats then, well , she tried, she started, as a result she had a romance, the main love of her whole life, this is it...

she always said that this was the main love of her life, and then she somehow got off to a good start, yes, first in paris, in the apartment of boy capel, he allowed her to open hat workshop. in his apartment, first in his apartment, apparently, when the hats began to evict them from the apartment, probably then he decided that it was time to rent a studio, the ladies of the demi-monde, of course, were the first to wear these hats, but they were influential, sufficient, yes, they were very influential from the point of view of fashion, yes, of course, that's how chanel gradually became famous in these circles, first the demi-monde, and then more, plus ... keppil gave her advice, because in the thirteenth year she opened her boutique in

davile, accordingly, is the cote d'azur, in the fourteenth year the war begins and all the aristocrats, the entire rich part of the french public, move to the sea, away from the war , and thus the chanel boutique finds itself in the center of attention of this public, it blossoms , plus of course her approach to clothing, clothing to... which is suitable for relaxation, for the beach, yes, she is relaxed, she does not commit to anything, this also contributed, in fact, to the fact that her business blossomed, when the war began, she wanted to close this boutique, and it did not suit her he said, don't close it under any circumstances, everything is the other way around, and they really did flow there, just like bioritz, there were two places, daville and bioritz, where rich aristocratic families flocked from the war away from paris. that's where the russian trail in her career started, because that's where she met russian aristocrats, she was,

in fact, the sister of grand duke dmitry pavlovich, she was a cousin of nicholas ii, he had an affair with her, and he introduced her to his sister maria palovna, she created this embroidery workshop kitmir, which initially worked exclusively for chanel, and then some kind of discord arose between them, because she wanted to work for someone else. everyone without a penny of money, everyone needed work, so there was a huge number, of course, of russian models, beautiful. this is tatyana

gevorkyan and the podcast are no slouch. today we are talking about one of the most famous women of the 20th century, coco chanel. and what else in the style of chanel directly connected her with russia at that time? her collections after we had, when the revolution happened, a wave of emigration, there were... a picture of a fur hat, very funny , very beautiful. the first wave of russian

emigration had a very strong influence on fashion in principle, russia was in fashion in general. but these famous pearls, where did they come from, that we still wear them, there they are important not so much pearls, pearls as pearls separately, they appeared just after the english, she began to wear them in a new way, again, yes, with sweaters, woolen ones, yes, she simply stylized them too in her own way, yes. in general, of course, what she first began to do, she began to mix jewelry with costume jewelry, that this was such a major revolution for her, yes, that jewelry means nothing, she said, pearls are incredibly expensive, until the second half of the 19th century, then it also appears artificial, and this is already, but it didn’t seem to interest her at all, despite the fact that it is known that the duke gave her some fabulous jewelry, well, understandable, but she also somehow easily

mixed them up, and she also had one passion, this perfumery, in the twenty-first year she launched her own perfume line, where, by the way, there is also a russian trace, this is our main pride, i would say, if you consider that the chanel number five fragrance is still the main iconic fragrance of the 20th century, and this is the only fragrance that has lived for more than 100 years. tell us its history, please, grand duke dmitry pavlovich. introduced chanel to ernest beaux, a great perfumer who worked for the company role, role was an outstanding russian perfume company, in general.

chanel is a person, but she understands who she is with deal, of course, she couldn't miss an outstanding perfumer, when she wants a perfume line, it would be a niche, of course, she orders a fragrance from him, but she orders not just a fragrance, yes, she wants a special fragrance, something different, ernest bo

uses those same synthetic aldehydes there, which were unstable, but what is the point of this... the dissimilarity of the fragrances, the fragrances before were natural-like, what we would say, yes, there is silvery lily of the valley, fragrant serenity, that is, some kind of rose, some kind of something, she doesn't want, she considers it vulgar, when daromat, you see, before her this did not exist, and he creates this abstract approach again, provides her, how many 20 options, two by 10 what.

1912, whose very first text begins with the words, why you need to be able to dress well, because nine out of ten women can get what they want only through men, art pleases a man, the most important thing for a woman. chanel is a genius of networking, so she understood. that she needed to do this, she did it through establishing connections, in general there is a quote, which is attributed to her, the world was divided into men and women. first, it was necessary to conquer everyone, i was not going to become everyone's mistress, but i wanted to please, and i knew how to do it until old age, these are not

so much romantic stories, although they too, as a strategy in life, conquests to the question of revolutionary, chanel remained true to herself in the sense that she is a girl from the poorest strata of the population, as we see it, cultural codes in clothes ... because they carried themselves, they did not have to work, what does chanel do? chanel is everything removes, she is not the first to remove the corset, of course, this is the work of paul poard, but in her clothes

the corset is not provided at all, convenience, here is peasant clothing, it should be comfortable, functional, allow movement, work and so on, this is all she transfers to fashion and makes it the lot of aristocratic clothing, this is an absolute revolution. this of course coincided with the spirit of the times, this is what olga was talking about, that a woman becomes active, a woman becomes a flapper, yes, a short haircut, a skirt, a cigarette, dancing, a woman drives a car, flies on a plane, she travels, she becomes free, and chanel conveyed all of this in her clothes, absolutely , you can see it all in her clothes, plus, of course, all of this coincides with constructivism, abstractionism,

and before she invented it, there were black dresses, what is innovative here, i saw it in life, i want to say that if now it were brought here, you would say that this is an absolutely ideal thing that can be worn today, in 100 years, it can be worn in the form in which it was made in the twenty-sixth year, it is a completely modern ideal thing, ideal proportions, ideal comfort, designers had black dresses. and servants had black dresses, this dress, which was often found in the middle ages, and chanel in this sense,

of course, again, it is a rebellion and a revolution, to make this dress like this, it was in the magazine wok, when it was published, they called it ford by chanel, ford, black, a popular car, it cost very little compared to all the others, a station wagon.

guy today our main direction is anti-aircraft systems, pantsir is a whole family of machines, readiness number one, the newest anti-aircraft missile and artillery air defense system, pantsir mm, it covers ships in the near zone, a combat landing vehicle, its main feature is that it can be dropped from the air to take some kind of forward position, all the charm, all ... god of war, tamers of fire. on wednesday, on the first. today we are discussing the legacy of perhaps one of the most famous couturiers of the 20th century, coco chanel. together with with me in the studio fashion journalist olga mikhailovskaya and fashion historian elena eliseeva.

but even how. when chanel had a huge success in europe, she had a failure in hollywood, when she was paid some fantastic money for participating in hollywood projects, and some kind of complete disaster happened there, her clothes turned out to be, probably, not glamorous enough, so to speak, yes, not enough for hollywood, for cinema, for film in general, apparently too simple. you see, in terms of fabrics, in everything, it is necessary there there was texture, probably, yes, there wasn't enough texture, yes, texture and in general some forms are more like that, this contract had another side, he wanted, this sim goldwyn, he wanted not only for her to dress them in the movies, but to dress these stars of american life, yes, because he thought they were tasteless, i think he thought quite rightly, of course they didn't want all this, they wanted their

hollywood glamour, in principle. but she was accused of the fact that they were no different from non-stage ones, yes, that they that's exactly how similar the sports ones are, the bathing ones and so on, that's how i understand it, that she and dyagenev were quite close friends, they were so close that he practically

died for her.

with black socks to make the foot seem smaller, these super fashionable ballet flats today, yes in 2024, yes, yes, of course, of course, and in general she categorically rejected high heels, plus she also really loved boots, that's what i really like, it was still so non-standard for that time, not for decent women, yes they were putting together, yes, she really loved boots, little boots, she said that especially when she became old, that they hid her. a little swollen ankle, although she was always thinner until the end of her days, yes, i think that even cardigans, generally knitted ones, and the lights themselves, what women wear, all this, of course, all this is her heritage in fact, but in general the combination of black and white, yes, probably, well yes, all these white collars, of course, of course, pajamas she also began to wear pajamas, of course, trousers in the women's wardrobe, yes, and in her collections of trousers so it was not particularly until the end

it was impossible, but on vacation...

answered the request of society, society wanted to move, the woman wanted to work, wanted not to depend on men, she showed that beautiful can be different, sexy can be different, you can be of any shape and even the absence of any shape, flat as a board, she spoke about herself, but if you want to be with this man, your charm does not depend on anything, the shape is secondary, primary.

here is an innovator already in the sixties in fact there is an interview with her, how she criticizes senlaran kuresh short mini skirts she loved, by the way, she thought that he was the only one, but he also named in the survey a designer whom you kind of idolize, he says mademoiselle chanel, he is her heir by blood, what he does she influenced him very much, by the way. yes, in the sixties she was no longer an innovator, she criticized them mercilessly, she believed that a mini skirt is an absolute ugliness, because all female joints are ugly, elbows, knees should be covered,

moreover, she considered the dimple on that side behind the knee to be unattractive, so her skirts, if we look at the cut, yes, there will be a slightly longer story in the back. right there is a video, the international fashion festival in moscow in 1967, and the house of chanel came here with a show, the commentator, well now the house of chanel comes out on the catwalk, it is clear that this is a classic, this is clothing for people 30 plus, 1967, it is expensive, it is respectable, and indeed, in 1967 there are already models jumping around. on the catwalk, well literally, yes, that is, how they present collections, and chanel is elegance itself, she is already at that moment, classic, she is already at that moment such an icon, which turns out to be the fruit of stability. karl

lgerfeld said that if chanel saw what he does for the fashion house, she would be horrified, she would be horrified, yes, well, and not only she, well, it is clear that the latest collections of ... many fashion critics cause indignation, but still, by and large , there is probably not a single woman in the world who, completely regardless of style, from taste, from social status, from financial situation, all the same, every woman has some thing, either it's chanel, or it's a chanel replica, or it's something that completely copies the chanel style. well, first of all, of course, there is the magic of the name in any case, yes, because there is such a story behind it , and then lagerfield did, of course, well , from the point of view of marketing, he did, well, how did he do all these so-called chanel codes,

that's what i really don't like, these buttons there, i don't know, these gold ones edgings, tweeds, he exaggerated all of this and turned it into such iconic things, actually, which everyone... wants, first of all, they recognize, he preserved dna, but yes, well, how, how could he preserve dna, it seems to me that he did not preserve dna at all, he completely destroyed it, but he chose these , these from this dna . archivist, that is, he took the archive and made

a variation on the theme: lagerfeld is a german, yes, this is a great philosophical culture, musical culture, mathematicians, yes, he has a head like the house of soviets, he is an encyclopedist, well, he works on the principle, worked, yes , now, on the principle, variations on a theme, you know, like mozart, mozart was given a variation, given a theme, and he created 50 variations on this theme. lagerfeld worked in his own way, he is also a genius, and what do you think, what is the future of this fashion house, what is needed in order to keep it afloat, i don’t know, maybe i’m wrong, maybe these are romantic ideas, but it seems to me that now it should, it should, well, i really want it, probably it should a person will appear who will do, he will revive this spirit of chanel, that chanel herself, not what happened later...

a pioneer and all that, he

moves to another fashion house, and we see him, we do not see the codes of this house, that is, well, as at the level of gold buttons, yes, but at the level of this spirit, no, but the spirit, this spirit of rebellion, this is an analogue of what we see in margiela's masonry, yes, when this tattered, ragged, absolutely simple comes into fashion, yes or when prada, when also... something like that, some kind of retro, some kind of sweaters from grandma's chest, intellectual fashion, when they break the template, traditional, familiar, against the background of some crazy glamour, now, please, nylon backpacks for the same money, that's about it, that same rich, luxurious poverty, well, in general, let's assume that today we made some kind of visionary prediction and we'll see if it comes true in the future or not. coco chanel said, fashion passes, style remains.

we won't argue, but we will definitely discuss it. more about cult figures in the history of fashion, look for something not so simple in other issues. already on the website of the first one. hello, on air is the program sunday time, in the studio ekaterina berezovskaya, we will tell about the main events of the day of the outgoing week, were going to allow kiev. more precisely to hit themselves with long-range missiles deep into

russia, this will mean that nato countries, the usa, european countries are fighting with russia, everyone heard the answer, bearing in mind the changes in the very essence of this conflict, we will make appropriate decisions, for clarity, the largest exercises in 30 years our fleet, ships from china are also participating. kursk region 10 villages have been liberated in 2 days, we are currently passing by a forest clearing from which we smoked out the fleeing enemy. successes of our defenders in the special operation zone, well, it looks like our film crew is the first to get to this very place, this is the closest point to the front line, exclusive report from war correspondents of the first channel, meeting in st. petersburg, representatives of prix, today about

the desire to join in one form or another in the activities of our association, has already stated from above. and not only the bridge, the eu economy is going downhill. we cannot ignore the fact that the situation has changed. and why was the head of the german foreign ministry surprised by the fast payment system? premiere on channel one.

a multi-part film. a choir about a young talent and a team that reflects the whole country like a mirror. times are changing, but the film choir is about our life. this is our life. each of us individually is certainly interesting, but one in the field is not a warrior. we will tell you how the film was shot. last week, st. petersburg became a city from which the main political news came. at the same time, meetings of high-ranking representatives took place there.

conflict, vladimir putin also spoke about it during his working trip to the northern capital. the west is going to allow the kiev regime to use the weapons it is pumping into ukraine for strikes deep into russian territory. of course, he is being disingenuous, he is going to allow himself, since the ukrainian military, without the direct participation of nato specialists, cannot handle such complex systems. ivan will continue the topic kanavalov. in a protracted armed... conflict, it is risky to raise the stakes in the hope of dramatically changing the situation in your favor both on the battlefield and in the diplomatic space, the insecure side is usually inclined to do so. against the backdrop of the successful offensive of russian troops in the kursk region on the central donbass front, washington and

london decided to allow kiev to fire long-range atacom missiles from tom shadow deep into russian territory, but as... in the united states, in general, snuff satellites - this is the first. the second and very important, perhaps key, is that flight assignments for these missile systems can, in fact, only be entered by nato servicemen. ukrainian

servicemen cannot do this, and