layer further further into the jail or if you join a sunset the tension has to start. again you into tension or you incarcerate this is a dialogue everyone has a voice something that states that supply kalashnikov rifle being accountable i want to give people the reason for joining the global conversation on how to 0. hello i'm adrian for the good in this episode we're revisiting bangladesh where a few years ago a garment factory collapsed and killed over 1000 people working inside the magnitude of the accident laid bare the lack of safety standards for the country's

garment workers and the apparent indifference of the multinational corporations that profited from them. it wasn't the 1st accident to happen in that industry and sadly it's unlikely to be the last but the issues raised by this film worth airing again here it is then award winning investigation from al-jazeera as faultline series made in bangladesh. operate the last 5 for last week and pass those savings on door customers to everyday low prices lock. stock. photo revenue i believe every year 400000000000 dollars having low prices drives traffic to our stores getting put in allows us to lower expenses lower prices and. please welcome tom. all around the globe wal-mart is taking the lead in making

a difference to contain the american dream has become a global concept i think it's our country's best export. 2012 was a good year for wal-mart. but it was a bad year for bangladesh. it experienced the deadliest factory fire in its history and walmart shorts were among the clothes found in the charred remains but the company escaped accountability. and for many western retailers whose clothes are made in bangladesh it's business as usual. anybody out there know how many zeros are half a trillion dollars the numbers are there along. with

the fire that has rained fashion's factory last november started on the ground floor and quickly spread. at least 112 people died hundreds of others were injured many workers were trapped inside because the doors were locked and the building had no fire exits. the remains of the fire are still everywhere here this is where workers jumped out of the burning building onto the roof of the storm and tory there's boards in all the windows who are going to kick out of the exhaust fans and jump onto this building. rukia begins daughter he now died in the fire. last of in the build up a little more notable the bulk of the. you haven't received any compensation for your daughter. i mean it was already

begun with. many of the women who escaped the fire still live in the shadow of the factory. mukhtar bondo is one of them. she says she was sewing the wal-mart shorts when the fire broke out. that brought in money lots of it well added to. their kind of the. kind of pull up on it they were then. going on my list said minister. so how did you escape for the electrician and i love i have this in. but it will up until a ship full of animals that i never can you describe what you were working on. these are the hands you're working. when word got out that we were visiting

other survivors came to share their stories so you took the hemming along the zipper and the belt about you none of the women received any compensation from wal-mart so you hanged and packed it up and they all vowed to never work at a garment factory again do you know who these pair of shorts were for were not delivered. 5 months after the fire yet another disaster in bangladesh captured the world's attention. rana plaza an 8 story building housing several garment factories collapsed more than a 1000 people died. even though the scale of the collapse eclipsed the fire the fundamental questions raised by ties remain were the same. how could tragedies like this happen and who ultimately should be held. responsible.

before we arrived in bangladesh we deceived internal documents related to the wal-mart short order. the paper trail gives us an inside look into the complicated way that wal-mart produces its clothing. wal-mart is a pioneer and also the most ruthless practitioner of a sourcing model that has now come to dominate the apparel industry it's a system that can shield the company from blame when disaster strikes the mark supply chain is defined by 2 critical features the tremendous pressure wal-mart puts on its suppliers and its contract factories overseas to slash production costs which wal-mart knows those factories will do by ignoring the rights and safety of workers and then secondly the utilization of multiple layers of agents and contractors so that wal-mart can distance itself from responsibility for the

inevitable consequences of those sourcing practices. simcoe is a mid-sized garment factory in a neighborhood crowded with them. at its height it had 1500 workers. today there are 600. simcoe is where the shorts were supposed to have been made. wal-mart placed the order with a new york based supplier called success apparel. success apparel then filled it with simple with help from a local buying agent called true colors said this is from success apparel does not contract you can see this is. going to do targeted cars and which is like 337 of the pieces more were just mention that this is the wal-mart borders but if you think you never try to number them. it is the food growing. faded glory is wal-mart's main engine. house clothing line and it was that brand of

shorts that was found in the ashes of the dream factory fire. simcoe says it couldn't handle the order after dozens of workers who left town during the muslim holiday of eve didn't return on time so already we were overbooked we were over our capacity and suddenly we don't have the workers to fill fruitful field orders on time kevin taxing the c.e.o. of success he visited us and he was like going through our facilities all the production you know use of 4 letter words etc and then he was like and we told him like you know we're having like trouble meeting the deadline you know we need some extensions we need some help he was very upset he said not a single day extension they're going to give us 5 years our country you know so the wal-mart supplier has direct supplier to wal-mart came here and told you yes yes.

sub contracting means paying another factory to take on some of the work. simcoe was already stretched and dealing with the short then it was hit with yet another massive order and then we got this other document from public clothing company and that's another wal-mart supplier. and they've sent a purchase order for almost $300000.00 shorts another set of shorts. august 17th 3 days later you. can make around 300000 garments a month. put together the 2 wal-mart orders will more than double its capacity. for years the logic was you place the order and some other factory will fulfill it somehow the factual fulfill it what is that code for that's called for it yes you do so contracting it you give it to other lines other production lines to fulfill daughter did wal-mart know about your product. in capacity here yes wal-mart of 3rd

party audits so the auditors come in they count your machines for you they know exactly how many garments you can produce on average on the line given what happened in tos reams some of asked why simcoe didn't simply refuse the 2nd wal-mart order factories in place like bang with that are gauged in cutthroat competition with competitors in bangladesh and around the world so it's practically impossible to turn down a major order from wal-mart because that is the factories lively. so to meet 1 march deadline simcoe subcontracted a small part of the success apparel order to a manufacturer called to buff to buy then sent the shorts to its dream factory a few weeks later the factory caught fire. oh my god. when really. when really you know i could remark on that happening. i don't know. and my

god given me you know there's a look over in the back room. caught fire you got smell you know is what i've reviewed the directory so i didn't send someone to get a lot of things out. success apparel accuse simcoe of subcontracting the order without their knowledge and wal-mart blamed their supplier success but simcoe insists that success knew about dream and that wal-mart also would have known because its own database retailing requires suppliers to identify where orders are being filled retailing is supposed to have a record of every factory authorized to produce wal-mart goods every factory engage in the production of wal-mart goods in may 1 mark named over $240.00 factories it would no longer work with it saying it had a 0 tolerance policy for an authorized subcontractor simcoe was one of them. if there was no shorts one person than business would have. as usual. it's like

everybody knows what's going on it's an open secret but getting caught on camera is or. i think in the act then you have to disown everything and say i didn't know anything about their duties the practice of the wal-mart to hide you know the more direct contact so you have this was the vendor and every fact you seen by all of the shots up contractors everybody facing a scandal wal-mart refused to accept the shorts or to pay the bill even after some of the order had already been shipped and this is are entirely abandoned for out $1200000.00 simcoe says it's nearly bankrupt so all of the shorts were made in these production lines and i really feel bad when i don't see our workers in these production lines you know and all these machines are now empty after that

has rained fire wal-mart announced at a drop success apparel as a supplier. we tried to speak to successes representative in bangladesh but we found the company had closed down its office here. who. we also tried to interview the company's c.e.o. gilla goodman in new york but she refused to speak with us. kevin taxon who was success as president at the time of the fire also refused to speak to us on camera he now heads up another supplier called america group one of its clients is wal-mart if wal-mart are really so upset about what success apparel did one assumes they would not be keen to continue to do business with a leading executive from success apparel. on the phone kevin told us that neither success nords agent in bangladesh true colors knew about the subcontractor. but

we managed to track down true colors last remaining employee in taka. if there's any sub contracting would you be aware of that yeah and then what do you do with that information do you pass it off. to an importer can you read this email from me and tell me where it's from ok then it's saying hey come the shocking meals the. last of any. one to 6 and what's the subject line of. cotton is industry speak for subcontractor. that email was sent by a manager true colors shortly after the fire so despite successes denials their own agent may have been aware of the sub contract. where on the trail investigating how walmart supply chain works here in bangladesh. does the company

know when its orders are being subcontracted is the way they source their clothing the system itself flawed the garment industry is notoriously secretive. so we needed an insider. we're on our way to meet an auditor who was hired by wal-mart to assess standards of some of its factories it's very rare for auditors to speak on the record and he doesn't want to speak to us on camera so we recorded the conversation secretly. in bangladesh government regulation of garment factories is lax and international companies are not legally required to ensure working conditions are safe. some companies hire auditors to inspect the factories if you're going to. also. be. there. that. you are not only there if you do.

nothing there. what do you think about their system. what why is it better what's the danger you're. going to have. to. do. with that you want to get it. from what you're saying it sounds like wal-mart supply chain saw out of control that there could be more doesn't want. to come. back that. doesn't know where it's goods are being produced it's because they choose not to know this is a company whose success is built 1st and foremost on the extraordinary level of

control they exert over production in their global supply chain. wal-mart refused to give us any information about its supply chain but a spokesperson told us wal-mart relies on its suppliers to implement the company's standards. there's a reason bangladesh is so popular with companies especially those that produce inexpensive clothes that need to be made quickly. the rock bottom cheapest place in the world to make apparel it's cheap because it has the lowest minimum wage for apparel workers of any country in the world at $0.18 an hour. that's about $38.00 a month. but it goes both ways. garments are just as important to bangladesh accounting for 80 percent of its exports and giving jobs to 4000000 people mostly poor women. that gives the industry enormous leverage inside

the country for what the buddha retailers unbias come here to look for cheaper subclass so that here it is a buyer's market everybody should anybody take. a share of that so these are. for money that we have 5 to 6 years but there are. many and. with these lives. all this money. it's not just the multinationals. in bangladesh everyone wants a shot at making it in the garment industry and headed to a small factory and just finishing of garments they're supposed to be finishing garments for wal-mart and posing as a buyer to get in there. for those who can't open large factories there's always business in sub contracting. even

if it means putting the finishing touches on. garments before they're shipped out. do you make anything that ends up in wal-mart. you made products that go to wal-mart. unless that is that one of the if there is a little there it was. for you an authorized wal-mart sub contractor for that porsche but let me live with them and i want to get to the good. so is this very common that a lot of factory subcontract for big labels like wal-mart without authorization to go through the very. issue but if you have a. little bit a little above the minute. i mean if. you're 14. so you started working when you were 13 years old. so what's the average age of your worthless. but all the while that this was. a

little bit. sad we just spoke to a girl who said she is 14. wal-mart told us they don't tolerate child labor and their supply chain and they're investigating whether this finishing center did any work on wal-mart products. once we found one finishing house it wasn't hard to find others. what do you make it. how many buttons do you put on every day. how old are they. how long have you been working here you go. into these training how old are. you going to school i don't know how much money it was out of a. little. $2500.00 taka is just $32.00

a month we're putting the last of that and into. naval plants because we're told that this is that. this will this is whatever. you are coming only general. says old navy. old navy is owned by gap inc one of the largest clothing companies in the world. this is where a lot of america's clothes come from and it's a reality many companies don't want us to see this is one of very many sub contracting factories at the bottom of the supply chain and bond with this seems completely unregulated completely on authorized there's no fire extinguisher no fire exit it's just a shack in someone's backyard. this morning we went to a finishing house and they had about 20 workers there more than half of them were under 14 there were girls as young as 12 making clothes for gap who really in

a finishing section body one 0 my gosh. oh my gosh. i mean for me. just so i just come believe so this is the time that gap should be stepped forward to make this. oh my gosh so see there how critical is the supply chain ease how critical these. gap declined to give us an on camera interview they did give us a statement though saying the products we found were quote either counterfeit or improperly acquired but through the bar codes on the tags we found at the finishing house we were able to match the garments to ones at old navy stores in the u.s. . the gap added that it quote strictly prohibits any vendor from

employing underage workers. there is a fairy tale that major brands and retailers like ap and wal-mart tell to the public in this fairy tale gap and wal-mart are companies that are socially responsible and deeply committed to protecting the rights of workers and making every effort to inspect their factories and ensure that everything is on the up and that fairytale has very little to do with the reality of the supply chain for wal-mart for gap and worker rights issues are not a moral issue they're an issue of reputational risk and wal-mart and gap understand that their image in the eyes of the public has a very large impact on the degree to which they can get people to come to their stores and buy their goods and so to the extent that they can be convinced that their image will be damaged if they don't do the right thing for workers then they will make change. after a workers' rights activist who is still haunted by what she saw that day. is

a feeling that when you were in the inside the building you can feel that how these workers forced to remove this window bar there just from bar 2 and then jumped my feeling was like nothing can be worse than these not think can be worse than these like seeing these people burned to ashes and their family crying. in front of you and they cannot find in the can and identify these bodies with them is their beloved or not. nobody think about this these human faeces who are making clothes for them and dying in these factories if. nobody talking about their compensation nobody talking about their wages that think getting. even i would say even they don't even consider dentists human. but they are really human they have needs they have a voice they wanted to speak out they have like to have a simple things. 'd

to hit. the search a lot positive in terms of safety and security the bodies set up by the international buyers as well as with the local banker those garments manufacturer association is to ensure the safety and security of the workers for us now the accord and alliance have set up certain benchmarks standard which is now followed the bank of those governments manufacture the export of association is following up with those benchmarks that set up their own body which is probably the ready made garments

sustainability council which will ensure the same benchmark and their interpreter themselves in the garment sector set up a over $1000000000.00 fund to ensure the safety and security for the workers. played. on al-jazeera. and the tension with the us. protests over a plane downing iran's hanum entry election will be held on february 21st partition of syria explores the fate of india's religious minorities on the prime minister modi's hindu move us voters get their fast chance to weigh in on the 2020 alexion al-jazeera will have comprehensive coverage a new series looks at how female scientists across the globe are opening doors for other women to pursue careers in science and up to 5 years of civil war can bitter rivals agree a peace deal to revive africa's youngest nation. february on al-jazeera.

investigating the use and abuse of power across the globe on al-jazeera. or. this is al jazeera. hello i'm sam is a damn this is the news hour live from coming up in the next 60 minutes 5 turkish soldiers and a civilian are killed in shelling by syrian forces backed by russia in the last rebel held. hongkong shuts down most of its border crossings with mainland china hours after medical workers went on strike. first humanitarian flight in 3 years leaves with a health system on the brink of collapse. not just

a lump of clay centuries old tradition finally gets recognition in mexico. and in sport a 50 year wait is over for the kansas city chiefs. to . achieve speeding the san francisco $49.00 ers to win the super bowl. but begin with one of the most serious escalations between turkish and syrian government forces in recent years the syrian military has killed 5 turkish soldiers and the civilian and now turkey has hit back and chris says its forces killed dozens of syrian soldiers and the province of syria's main ally russia is contradicting those claims.