tv Our World BBC News November 1, 2020 9:30pm-10:01pm GMT
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but is calling on the government to use the time to ramp up ‘test and trace‘. with just two days to go until election day, the us presidential candidates are making a "final weekend" dash around key swing states. a major search and rescue effort is now into its third day in the turkish coastal town of izmir, following a major earthquake that hit the agean on friday, killing at least 60 people. typhoon goni, has made landfall in the philippines with sustained winds of more than 140 miles an hour. the most powerful storm this year has caused the evacuation of over 200,000 people. now on bbc news, our world asks has coronavirus changed the way we buy clothes forever, and what about those who are being left behind?
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bangladesh is one of the world's most incredible economic success stories. at the heart of the country's economic boom is the garment industry. the first factory opened in the 1970s and now it is a $30 billion industry. barton, arcadia groups, tesco, river island... almost everybody has visited in my showroom. there are almost 5,000 garment factories in bangladesh, employing mostly women. but could the coronavirus erase decades of progress in a matter of months? you see all this is justjeans. and those made for the... uk high street. theyjust keep here like that. how many days i can keep the jeans like that? where i have the space?!
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the southern port city of chittagong. most of the clothing in these factories is made for fast fashion brands in america and europe. it's all about huge volumes and quick turnaround times. mostafiz uddin is the owner of denim expert. this is pepejeans london. he employs 2,000 workers, making jeans for big international brands. when he built the factory 11 years ago, mostafiz focused on creating a safe working environment.
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he wanted to put bangladesh on the map as a sustainable place to do business. in the past, safety issues were rampant in garment factories. building regulations were disregarded in construction. long working hours in cramped and hazardous factories were common. these unsafe working practices were brought to the world's attention in 2013. the eight—storey rana plaza complex collapsed in the capital dhaka. 1,131; people were killed.
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did you go to rana plaza when it happened? immediately — itwas11.00, 11.30, something like that. i just took my shuttle and i ran away and i went to the rana plaza area and i see the things that are going on, ifeel so much helpless that i had really not things to do, no things to offer. from there, i decided, "0k, that is the time i really start to how can i do good for people?" "how can i change people's perceptions? "how can another rana plaza not happen? " you really can see what i'm doing the last 20 years. if you check through my e—mails the last 20 years, you will see every single day i work up through night 3am. he lives with his wife and son in chittagong. i was thinking after...many days.
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he has dozens of clients from all around the world. many come to visit him in his factory showroom. like this from marshall, the us ambassador, from the danish ambassador. clients who buyjeans from him include famous fashion brands. and who's visited your lab? almost every high street retailer you can think of visited over here like, at the moment boohoo, barton, topshop and then arcadia groups, tesco, river island... almost everybody have been visited in my showroom and they all had been written their comments over here, and they are all very happy. but things have changed dramatically since the coronavirus pandemic hit.
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on 9th of march, the first three cases of coronavirus were announced in dhaka. man on tannoy speaks own language 0n the 26th of march, the government ordered all factories to lock down. millions of workers were sent home, with no idea when they would return to work. hosna and her husband both lost their jobs in garment factories.
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they live on the outskirts of dhaka in the tongi slum. they share one room with their baby, shareen, and aktar‘s mother. his mother also lost herjob in the garment industry when the factories closed. social distancing here is a challenge. 0ne stove is shared amongst 20 families. there are six toilets and one communal washing area.
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the minimum wage for a garment worker in bangladesh is £74 a month. hosna and her family all worked overtime and earned nearly £275 a month between them. one month into the lockdown, hosna was called back into work. but on the 3rd ofjune, she was laid off and given just 5,000 taka, around £45, in compensation.
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in chittagong, 17 days into the pandemic, mostafiz had to close his factory. he was receiving e—mails from buyers cancelling their orders. many of the jeans had already been made and were ready to be dispatched. some had already been shipped. but some customers were saying they were no longer responsible for the payment of their order or were putting payment off indefinitely. when the pandemic hit, around $3 billion of orders were cancelled in bangladesh's garment industry.
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you see all this is justjeans. and those were all made for the high street. theyjust keep here like that. how many days i can keep the jeans like that? where i have this space?! you can see by yourself there is no space. everywhere, everywhere you can see. there is no space and it is not safe for the working condition. mostafiz pays for all materials to make the jeans upfront. he borrows money from the bank for the denim and his workers‘ wages. he generally receives payment on delivery of the goods, not in advance. you can see all of these fabrics are from pakistan, china, india, turkey. and all these fabrics we bought from our manufacturing
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partners, oursuppliers, and they trusted us, they have produced these fabrics when we say to them to do it just like we trusted to our buyers and all these people, the same thing, our high street suppliers also trusted us and then we produce and then we ship. now, if you just look into all these fabrics, these are all $1, these are all here around $5—6 million of fabrics in this warehouse, and all of the fabric, we borrowed the money from the bank and we purchase this because we trusted our clients and told them we would finish them. but they simply cancelled them. as i say, they don't want them. one of the companies that cancelled a large order was uk high street retailer peacocks. in total, they cancelled a contract for 113,600 pairs of jeans, worth over £162,000.
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in an e—mail to mostafiz, the company said it was cancelling payments for all stock already made and stock that had already shipped to its warehouse. 15,100 pairs had already been made and were ready to ship. another 111,500 jeans had had the material bought for them. we tried to contact them to ask why they haven't paid for their orders, but have received no reply. its parent company, edinburgh woollen mill, has recently filed for administration, putting up to 211,000 jobs at risk in the uk. we work in trust and faith in everybody in this industry works like that. what we were supposed be producing in march,
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we had not ordered in february, we ordered that in december and the vessel ships from different parts of the world, china, turkey all of these places. so when the pandemic starts and everything shuts down, even that time it starts to come and then it starts to pile up. mostafiz is paying $2,000 a day to keep fabrics he has already ordered, but can't store at his factory at the port. containers after containers come in because we ordered the fabrics two or three months before. i am not understanding what to do, the responsibility of 2,000 people. priority is feeding the families, feeding the workers, not to clear the goods for the port. it is not the buyer who did that commit millions of dollars of goods stuck on the port, but how can i save my worker? how can i keep them alive?
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mostafiz received some support from the government in the form of low interest loans to help cover salaries. it was not enough to cover all his costs. he took drastic action to keep paying his workers. i sold my property, all the property. even the house where you are sitting now, that house was sold. this one, this is my only house. last month... ..she sold all her jewelries and gold. and keep on paying to the people. so, we are poor, actually.
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how he overcomes this. he did not sleep. after 3—4 days, he asked me, i felt a pain in my chest. at times things were very difficult. this street, this is where i used to see to everybody. i would stand here and thought about just jump from here. suicide. that's what i used to think. i mean, people will think i am a coward.
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mostafiz‘s factory reopened after one month. six months on, some buyers have now agreed to pay for orders they'd cancelled. many are still insisting on a discounted rate. mostafiz has taken on deep debts. i am suffering, i am a part of the suffering, but it is not that i am the only person suffering. we are suffering, the group of manufacturers are suffering because it is not happen only in bangladesh. the situation, what has happened with me, maybe i am one person or i am one single country, but it is the same in all the production countries. if you go to india, pakistan or other countries, they also have the same situation as an industry and as a community, we should make some kind of safety net
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where our workers are safe and they should not have suffered the way how they suffered... during the pandemic times. for decades the fast fashion industry has relied on cheap labour from countries like bangladesh. and for the millions of people like hosna, work in garment factories has provided a better standard of living. imports of clothing to america were down 49% from april tojune and in the eu, they were down by 45%.
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become drier, less windy, but we will import a cooler air mass so it will import a cooler air mass so it will feel cooler by day and night and also the chance of a dense mist and also the chance of a dense mist and fog patches developing from the mid week with a few isobars on the chart, so windy, and the worst —— when a friend clearing on and enhancing the showers further north and west. as it clears from the south—east, skies will brighten and there will be sunshine and showers for most of us in the afternoon with some merging to produce longer spells in the north and west. the winds are still quite a feature for england and wales, a0 or 50 mph, and something a little less windy for scotla nd something a little less windy for scotland and northern ireland and after a mild start, temperatures will drop to 11 or 1a degrees in single figures further north. into tuesday we still have a run of westerly winds, not as strong and we have the feature that will run across southern britain through the course of tuesday that will bring outbreaks of rain to southern counties, eventually clearing from
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east anglia and the south—east late on tuesday and then elsewhere, bright, sunny spells and showers and most of these feeding into northern and western areas and a keen north—westerly wind. these are the mean wind speed, so you can see not as strong as what we have had over the weekend and we will have on monday but much cooler, fresher day with temperatures between eight and 10 degrees in the south. as we move tuesday to wednesday, the area of high pressure dominate and the isobars will widen, so we are importing much cooler air from the north—west right across the uk, so it does mean the wednesday morning it's going to be a cold start, frosty start for many with some mist and fog in places but we should have clear skies overhead, so despite the cold start it should be sunny for most areas. we could see more of a breeze and bits and pieces of clown developing across the north and west of scotla nd developing across the north and west of scotland through the day but most places dry and the winds are even lighter, these are the mean speed
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you can see in single digits, a bit breezy for the western isles and into the north—west corner of scotland. temperatures then between nine and 11, may be 12 degrees in the warmest part, so a chilly day after the chilly start. as we head into thursday another area of high pressure sits right on top of us so very light winds and it means we could have issue with stubborn areas of mist and fog with some areas and staying grey where the fog lifts into low cloud. after a cold and frosty star, most places dry with sunshine but there will be increasing wind and cloud for the north—west of scotland and he probably a little less cold, 12 or 13 degrees, single figures for most. the area of high pressure moves to the near continent ending the week and this low pressure drifts up from iberia which is likely to bring warm southerly winds but also the chance of showers or even longer spells of rain. so we end the week on a chilly and bright note, as the area of high pressure d rifts and bright note, as the area of high pressure drifts away and allows the area of low pressure to move on from the south, so temperatures begin to
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rise we start to see more in the way oui’ rise we start to see more in the way our cloud with a chance of some rain. so the next weekend and even beyond,it rain. so the next weekend and even beyond, it looks like it will turn milder than what we are expecting through this week with patchy rain for some of us. goodbye for now.
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