direction swinging to a northerly, driving a cooler air down from the north. so if you are caught in those showers with the blustery wind, it will feel disappointingly cool in comparison to recent days. nine degrees the high. to the still in situ state, we could start with early morning frost around. fewer showers on tuesday, most widespread across northern scotland, northern ireland are one or two running down through the irish sea looks even with a little more sunshine and lighter winds, temperatures are set to struggle. hello, this is bbc news. the headlines... the crucial climate change conference has got under way in glasgow. the cop26 summit is widely seen as the last chance to save the planet from irreversible damage caused by climate change. earlier, the leaders of the world's richest nations

were meeting in rome, where the climate challenge was spelled out clearly. if we don't act now, the paris agreement will be looked at in the future not as the moment humanity opened its eyes to the problem, but the moment we flinched and turned away. us presidentjoe biden said the 620 countries had made �*tangible�* progress on climate, the pandemic and the economy and that the world was ready for american leadership on global issues. a train has derailed on the line between salisbury and grateley in wiltshire. other train services in the area have been halted. the british government says it's "up to france" to solve the post—brexit fishing row with the uk — by stepping back from threats over access to its ports.

three people have died and another is in a critical condition, after a group of paddleboarders got into difficulty on a welsh river in pembrokeshire. let's just remind you of the breaking news tonight. we have had reports of a collision, that has taken place between two trains. we understand one has derailed, let me give you the location. it is happening at grateley to the east of the city and close to andover, that is in the salisbury area. as you can see there on your screen, that is a tweet from wiltshire police. we are awaiting further information but i willjust read that to you...

0k, ok, now in bbc news, it is the travel show. coming up on this week's programme, we're talking shop in paris as one of the city's most famous department stores celebrates its belated 150th birthday. it is big, really big! the underground railroad that had no stations and no trains but helped thousands of enslaved african—americans escape to freedom in canada. i love that term — freedom seekers — because if they had not sought freedom, who knows where we would have been to this day? and i head out to the hebrides to get the first of a glimpse of a galaxy over 20 million light years away. i thought that was a galaxy because it looks like the opening credits of a sci—fi movie. that is so cool.

hello and welcome to the travel show, coming to you this week from a lockdown—free london, where the city's world—famous shops are slowly opening up again. over in paris, it is pretty much the same story, especially for one iconic department store that is celebrating not only opening its doors again, but also 150 years of being in business. we sent emeline nsingi nkosi over to do a little bit of windowshopping. lovely! paris is a second home to me. last time i was here,

the streets were empty and shops were boarded up. today, it feels great to see things returning back to normal, even though some restrictions are still in place. but i'm notjust here to drink coffee — i'm here to shop, and where better place to do it than here? new york has its macy's, london has harrods. paris has la samaritaine. a new and improved version of this iconic department store opened in june last year after a long 16—year closure. so, here it is. la samaritaine. each of the three sections representing a different moment in time, and, actually, it started as a small stall just over there. now look at it!

despite its humble beginnings, la samaritaine soon became one of the most well—known department stores in paris. it was a place to see and be seen. the shop where you could supposedly find everything. founded in 1870, the art nouveau building came first, the 19th century was a time of big change in paris and la samaritaine symbolised that change. but its ornate features soon became outdated. a few decades later, an art deco building was constructed next door in an effort to lure in the next generation of shoppers. and it worked. with the help of its quirky advertising, the store flourished. at its peak, it employed over 3000 parisians.

but as times and tastes changed, the shop's popularity dwindled. safety concerns and high maintenance costs meant that in 2005, la samaritaine had to close its doors. many thought that was it for the store until luxury fashion brand lvmh stepped in with the help of 750 million euros. for parisians, it isn'tjust a building or a department store. when we reopen this building, all of the parisian people came to visit, notjust for the store but for the architecture. the building was completely gutted.

some original features were discovered when stripping back the layers used to cover the art nouveau interior before it went out of fashion. specialist craftspeople were tracked down from across france for the job. the result is breathtaking. wow. it's big. really big. this is great to see. i mean, it is heaving with people and you... you can just see that they aren't obviously here just to shop and eat, because they are walking around taking pictures of the structure. yes. how hard was it to redo? from this level, you can see every detail of the art nouveau period and architecture.

you can see the stairs, the historic detail with the handrail. it is refurbished exactly the same design and the same kind of detail by the artissns. and you can see also this from the 1960s. you didn't see this fresco because it was covered by the white painting. but it has been far from a smooth ride. a brand—new building on rue de rivoli struggled to get planning permission for years, with locals saying that the modern facade didn't fit in with the local architecture. right here, you can really get a sense of where the older building that i know and love meets this new,

more modern development. personally, i have a real soft spot for the old one. we were very careful to keep the dna that was really given by the founders. first, they were real innovators and they were innovators in terms of, for example, architecture, because now you have the art nouveau and art deco, right now it seems traditional, but at that time it was really revolutionary for them. and we did the same thing, a little bit, with the rivoli facade. we asked the architect to do this very contemporary facade. that, you know, we prolonged the tradition of innovation from ourfounders. the store has reinvented itself with shopping brands, food stores, and even a luxury hotel. it is something to see. before, it wasjust part of our life, but we don't see it.

you know? we didn't take the time to admire. now, we stop and we look, and we talk. i really like these cherries. this definitely reminds me of being a child. but, with the rise of online shopping fuelled by the pandemic, is there still a place for the department store? 16 years have passed. we have to build some return for the next 30 years, so, i mean, we adapted to the changing habits, the changing clients that became much more sophisticated, demanding, expecting, you know, an experience, to really offer something different that you cannot find online. the decoration aspect is really important, and then also all the experience that you have. you have a lot of light, you know, it's really nice walking around. and a lot of surprises captured in the store. do many different things

you cannot do online. this hat is absolutely gorgeous — look at that colour! ah, 0k, doesn't fit, which is a shame because i have always wanted to be a hat lady. ah! 0k! a velvet beret. as they say, when in paris... super—cute, but the price? yeah, sadly not for today. stay right there, looking beautiful. la samaritaine has been in business for over 150 years, and it has come a long way since then. and while you might not be able to buy everything here any more,

visiting is an experience in itself, and it sure feels good to be back. stay with us. still to come on the travel show... ..we are off to america to meet the people from chicago who are learning more about the part their city played in the fight against slavery. we were just talking about how it connects to our heritage, being black women, and how empowering and invigorating it is to know part of your history. and i head up to the hebrides for a spot of stargazing, scottish style. so those are the stars! that is way more than you can see with the naked eye. we're off to the us now, where the story of how the american civil war ended slavery in the country's southern states is well known. but what is not so well—known is the story of the underground railroad.

it was a secret network, which, before the civil war, helped to smuggle escaped slaves out of america and onto freedom. a new tour is helping many local people from chicago reconnect with that history, and we have been to meet some of them. the underground railroad had no stations, no trains, and no tunnels. it got its name because it operated amidst the highest secrecy. 0nce escaping slaves jumped on—board the railroad, they simply vanished until they were either recaptured or reached their final destination — freedom. an undercover network of conductors, or guides, operated along the route of the railroad, which stretched from slave—owning states in america's deep south all the way north to the canadian border. now, something called

the african—american heritage water trail has been created to help preserve and share the history of this little—known but important section of the underground railroad. it starts with days like this — paddling along this trail, telling the stories. folks who have shown courage and fortitude. we are from the south side of chicago and i got an email to come out and take part in this canoeing trip. i wanted to bring my daughters. there are 29 stops along thejourney, covering more than 180 years of african—american history. you have freedom seekers travelling from south further north and this being a point of salvation in terms of, like, being able to stop somewhere and then be guided further up north in a safe space. it's estimated that tens

of thousands of escaping enslaved african—americans used the underground railroad to push north and finally cross the border into what was then known as british north america, or modern—day canada, and freedom. the indiana avenue bridge was built by george dawson and his sons who were abolitionists back in the 1830s. along with the bridge came a new ferry, which became an integral part of the escape network. along the trail, you will also find several locations like thanh farm, which was owned by a dutch farming couple that provided safe places to stay, offering escaping slaves food and shelter for the night before they continued theirjourney north. there were black and white abolitionists working together to assist freedom seekers and some of those folks stopped at the farm.

this site is a stop on the journey. when we finally did the very deep map and archaeological research that the actual site of the farm is on the property of what is now called chicago's finest marina which is the oldest black—owned mariner in the chicago region. we are part of chicago but we're also part of a deep, rich history that has not been told yet. the property was actually used during the underground railroad to hide freedom seekers who were coming from all over, trying to escape slavery down south, and just to look off into the water and wonder what their travels were to get this far and this close, it's a mixed emotional thing because it is an honour, but also, you are like the keeper of the records.

piece by piece, researchers have been slowly uncovering many of the until—now unknown people and places that played such an important role in the story of the underground railroad. it is a tale of bravery, endeavour and, above all, hope for freedom and a better life. me and my paddle buddy were talking about how it connects to our heritage, being black women, and how empowering and invigorating it is to know part of your history. our ancestors, the people who came before us, the freedom seekers, i feel honoured for a momentjust to be where they walked and kind of experience a little bit of what they may have experienced. i love that term — freedom seekers — because had they sought not freedom, who knows where we would have been to this day?

well, if you're a regular viewer of the travel show, you will remember that earlier this year, we took a trip across the length and breadth of the british isles in our all—electric travel show van. but when we visited the outer hebrides, the group of islands off scotland's wonderful west coast, we made an extra stop in stornoway, where i met the organisers of the annual hebridean dark sky festival, which ended this month. stornoway is the main town on the outer hebrides. around 6000 people live here, roughly a quarter of the island's entire population. and despite the weather, they have given me a warm welcome. hello! hey, guys.

i have arrived at the town's arts centre, where they are just about to wrap up their latest exhibit. andrew, so, what are we seeing here on this screen? this is a series of films called 0ur night skies, which were made all over the world during lockdown. wicked! it was commissioned by an artist collectice called lumen, and they're doing their first scottish exhibition as a part of our festival. andrew is one of the main organisers of the hebridean dark skies festival — which has been running since 2019, with events combining art and astronomy. i think one of the interesting things that artists and astronomers have in common is the sense of wonder, you know? about the universe and the scale of the universe. and would you say that you could only really hold a festival like this here in the hebrides? i think so, yeah, because on the one

hand, you've got stornoway — a fairly sizeable town with an arts centre, but on the other side, the rest of the island is mostly villages and so there's almost no light pollution and so that's where you really get to see the incredible skies above. one of the best stargazing spots on the island can be found an hour down the road at gallan head. it was an raf base during the cold war and now, it's where the festival takes people to observe and photograph the night sky. this is andy. we've got andrew and andy — you have done this on purpose. yes, just to confuse you. what is it about seeing galaxies and seeing stars? well, galaxies in particular are so far away and you are looking back in time.

one of our nearest galaxies, the andromeda, is 2.5 million light years away. it is like a moment in time, isn't it, and they say it's good for seeing the planets? it's amazing. we have some of the darkest skies in the whole country. around the world, there are more than 100 official dark sky locations. designed to protect remote spots like this one against light pollution. gallan head has not been officially recognised by the dark sky 0rganisation, but as the last rays of sunlight fade away, i am given one of the best views of the night sky that i have ever seen. all right, so show me how to take these pictures, then, andy. that's the one. andy's set up a camera to take 30 second—long exposures. that is to allow enough time to allow the light from those

distant stars to reach the camera's sensors. so those are the stars? that's way more than you can see with the naked eye! are there any galaxies and stuff like that, can you see them yet, or is this camera not good enough? this camera would not be good enough, no, but a telescope would be. 0k! so is there a camera on the bottom of this? very clever! light, please. thank you. here. yes. there you are. so that is a galaxy? that is a galaxy. i mean, i thought that was a galaxy because it looks like the opening credits of a sci—fi movie. i mean, i know that sounds really weird! but that is so cool! that is called messier 101, or the pinwheel galaxy, which is about 21 million light years away. quite far away.

it is really beautiful, and you know what? guys, this is the first time i've seen a galaxy in real life. 0h, great. this is my first, thank you for this. this is, yes, it's so cool! look at that! and the hebridean dark skies festival starts up again in february next year. now, that was a really special experience. seeing all of those galaxies millions of light years away blew my mind. truly amazing. now, i hope you enjoyed that because that's your lot for this week. join us next week, when... ..christa will be in iceland,

joining the annual traditional round—up of thousands of wild horses before the winter sets in. these guys are not just any old horses. these are viking horses. no time to check them. and we start an epic journey to siberia in a car that has, frankly, seen better days. i hope you canjoin us for that and don't forget, in the meantime, you can find more of our travel show adventures on the bbc iplayer. but for now, from me, ade adepitan, in an autumnal london, it's goodbye.

good evening. it was a wild, wet and windy sunday morning for many of us, wasn't it? but the rain cleared its way steadily northwards. it has been lingering throughout the afternoon in the far north of scotland, a trail of showers following on behind. as we say goodbye to october, though, what is in store for the beginning of november? well, we will start off with some sunshine and blustery showers, but then it is going to turn quieter by the middle part of the week, noticeably cooler for all of us and we could see some overnight frost, something that we have not had so far this season. so today's low moves away, we can track the isobars all the way back to the north, so a northerly wind takes over, before high pressure then builds in and quietens things down through the middle part of the week. but it's that northerly wind that will be the real key to the story, noticeably cooler, driving in the blue tones right across the country. temperatures perhaps just below par for the time of year. so, monday will be a case of sunny spells and scattered showers, most

frequent out to the north and west. there will be some breaks, some sunshine coming through, but those temperatures dipping down a little. 9—11; degrees as a high. as we move out of monday into tuesday, the isobars will open up, the winds will fall a little lighter, we could have some frost and fog first thing on tuesday morning. but once that lifts away, there will be some sunshine around. most of the showers on tuesday on the exposed north coast of scotland, northern ireland and some running down through the irish sea as well. but even in the sunshine, it's not going to be very warm with it. a top temperature of between 9 or 12 celsius. moving out of tuesday into wednesday, similar story, still plenty of showers along the coast, but further inland, it will be largely fine and dry. again, the potentialfor a frosty start first thing in the morning, but again that northerly wind just making it feel rather cool, really, and a bit of a shock to the system, particularly if you're caught in those showers.

top temperatures between seven and 11 degrees as a maximum. high pressure builds in, then, as we move out of wednesday into thursday — that is going to quieten the weather story down. that'll kill off some of the showers as well. so thursday and friday looks likely to be drier and brighter, but not necessarily warmer. that is it. take care.

lighter winds, temperatures are set to struggle. this is bbc news with the latest headlines for viewers in the uk and around the world. we're live in glasgow where the cop26 summit — the crucial climate change conference — is getting under way. if we don't act now, the paris agreement will be looked at in the future not as the moment humanity opened its eyes to the problem but the moment we flinched and turned away. us presidentjoe biden said the g20 countries had made tangible progress on climate,

the pandemic and the economy and that the world was ready for american