stay with us on bbc news. we'll have more headlines for you after this programme. india. birthplace of illustrious ancient civilisations and a fast emerging global power. more than 70 years after

independence, india is a diverse country. travelling through one of the driest places on earth, it is quite incredible, the scent. it's just crystals. hard crystals, white salt. these are areas really for the adventurous traveller. this is not india on tap. i'm on a quest to find out how history, religion and politics have shaped india and also meet the people in this intriguing and sometimes overwhelming country. it's going to be an amazing journey. the thousands of

years, india has found its riches and influence to international trade. at the heart of this enterprise is the sea. and the state of gujarat with 1000 miles of coastline serves as a shipping port to africa and beyond. this is as far west as you can get in india and its these influences from over that have helped make gujarat the place it is today. the region is known for its beaches and these beaches are a domestic tourist attraction. that this ancient port town's economy is still anchored in a much older maritime tradition.

this is genuinely incredible. i'm in heaven. here i am with ships made of constructed wood. these smaller more agile vessels are still in huge demand. so here we are close up to this incredible hulk. this one is under construction and we can actually go inside. i'm going to go inside and see how they actually make these things. apparently, each of these down sticks take two and a half years to make. for many of the workers, shipbuilding is a family tradition.

this ancient craft is attracting unexpected new admirers.

this region was home to one of the earliest civilisations and can be traced back to prehistoric times. it's old royal capital is this city. its glory days, well, they are kind of over. it was badly hit by the 2001 earthquake. it's a kind of melancholy about this area because this was once the real opulent centre of a rich trading empire and the hub was here. horns beep what is still flourishing is this market, a50 years old, and the trading conditions continue here. ., ., ~ ., here. -- tradition. what you sail here? —

here. -- tradition. what you sail here? fabric, _ here. -- tradition. what you sail here? fabric, people . here. -- tradition. what you i sail here? fabric, people come from all cultural backgrounds in the marketplace. as you can see, all different communities and ethnic groups come here. but its natural harmony was disrupted over 75 years ago when the british left. the country was divided on religious grounds with muslims partitioned to the north and others to the south. we visit the border of pakistan. we encounter some herdsman. they've been living here for 4-500 _ they've been living here for a—500 years. and they have now come _ a—500 years. and they have now come to— a—500 years. and they have now come to this part which is now part— come to this part which is now part of— come to this part which is now part of pakistan.— part of pakistan. ever since the split — part of pakistan. ever since the split there's _ part of pakistan. ever since the split there's been - part of pakistan. ever since l the split there's been tension between the two governments but for these herdsman, religious

differences and natural borders mean little. it’s differences and natural borders mean little-— mean little. it's really not that important. _ mean little. it's really not that important. people i mean little. it's really not| that important. people are religious of course, but they are living _ religious of course, but they are living in harmony even though— are living in harmony even though it's two different groups. though it's two different urou s. ~ ., though it's two different u-rous. ~ ., , groups. when two countries were created from _ groups. when two countries were created from one, _ groups. when two countries were created from one, indelible - created from one, indelible scars were left on the psyche of the subcontinent. independence has not yet brought— independence has not yet brought them _ independence has not yet brought them peace, - independence has not yet brought them peace, the| independence has not yet - brought them peace, the horror and warning _ brought them peace, the horror and warning ln— brought them peace, the horror and warning-— brought them peace, the horror and warning. in dramatic scenes more than _ and warning. in dramatic scenes more than a _ and warning. in dramatic scenes more than a million _ and warning. in dramatic scenes more than a million died - and warning. in dramatic scenes more than a million died in - more than a million died in religious rioting and even more were displaced. now the border itself has become a tourist attraction. itself has become a tourist attraction-— attraction. that way is pakistan. _ attraction. that way is pakistan. yes, - attraction. that way is pakistan. yes, aboutl attraction. that way is l pakistan. yes, about 70 kilometres north, that's where

the border with injuries. and then— the border with injuries. and then this _ the border with injuries. and then this is of geographical value _ then this is of geographical value. at then this is of geographical value. �* . , :: :: then this is of geographical value. ~ . , :: :: , value. at nearly 500 metres above sea — value. at nearly 500 metres above sea level, _ value. at nearly 500 metres above sea level, the - value. at nearly 500 metres above sea level, the highest point, this hill, allows us a dramatic view of this geological phenomenon on, the desert which continues into pakistan. i wanted to get up close to this natural wonder. it's quite incredible, the sand. it'sjust it's quite incredible, the sand. it's just crystals, it's quite incredible, the sand. it'sjust crystals, hard crystals, white salt. you can probably taste it. really unusual to see something like this. the further out i walked, the less lovely it became. it's actually quite incredible. it's more like snow or sludge than white sand, or white crystal,

when it gets wet around here. i'm getting really deep into it. today, this shimmering wilderness is a healthy source of income for the region. thanks mainly to a three month long festival throughout the winter. it is amazing. what was a vast, barren landscape has been transformed into this colourful complex where by night, there is live music and during the day plenty of other activities and what we would call these glamorous camping quarters. i guess this is like a cross between a weekend festival and a holiday resort. it's basically a honeypot for the booming middle classes of india

in what has been one of the fastest—growing economies the world. the revival of interest in this culture boosted by the festival has been a a lifeline for one group of individuals, folk musicians. it’s for one group of individuals, folk musicians.— for one group of individuals, folk musicians. it's very very rich over _ folk musicians. it's very very rich over here. _ folk musicians. it's very very rich over here. we _ folk musicians. it's very very rich over here. we used - folk musicians. it's very very rich over here. we used to l rich over here. we used to perform _ rich over here. we used to perform with kettles, and then they— perform with kettles, and then they would come home and they would _ they would come home and they would get together and perform special— would get together and perform special songs. gne would get together and perform special sensa— would get together and perform special songs. one person plays two fleets _ special songs. one person plays two fleets at — special songs. one person plays two fleets at the _ special songs. one person plays two fleets at the same - special songs. one person plays two fleets at the same time? i two fleets at the same time? yes, yes. —— salutes. what he will— yes, yes. —— salutes. what he will do — yes, yes. —— salutes. what he will do is _ yes, yes. —— salutes. what he will do is sit _ yes, yes. —— salutes. what he will do is sit below, start playing _ will do is sit below, start playing this and once they reach _ playing this and once they reach these musical notes, the

kettle — reach these musical notes, the kettle will start. increases, so this _ kettle will start. increases, so this is _ kettle will start. increases, so this is the beauty of it. almost— so this is the beauty of it. almost like meditation? yes. thin . s almost like meditation? yes. things are — almost like meditation? yes. things are changing - almost like meditation? yes. things are changing definitely, tourism, — things are changing definitely, tourism, so many music festivals _ tourism, so many music festivals are there so they are invited — festivals are there so they are invited in _ festivals are there so they are invited in various parts of india _ invited in various parts of india and _ invited in various parts of india and of course they are very— india and of course they are very well— india and of course they are very well paid.— india and of course they are very well paid. and not only do i aet a very well paid. and not only do i get a demonstration - very well paid. and not only do i get a demonstration but i very well paid. and not only do i get a demonstration but also | i get a demonstration but also the privilege of playing along. and once again, i'm made aware that this culture is about a sense of community and not about religious segregation. from the bottom of my heart, i'm telling you in spiritual in

music— i'm telling you in spiritual in music form, hindus and muslims, they sit— music form, hindus and muslims, they sit together and partake in music _ the next part of myjourney, i'm heading to the south—east of gujarat. nothing sums this country are better than the indian railway network. this is what unifies this country. i remember as a small child being on an indian train and been totally overwhelmed by it but i love it. this feels imminent.

this train looks pretty damn old to me but, wow, look at that. it's a network that theories millions of passengers daily across tens of thousands of track to nearly 7000 stations. it's one of the world's biggest employers. there is one defining legacy of british rule, it's the vast, sprawling, creaking indian railway network. it's still the lifeblood of the country today. vibrant singing i'm telling you this, you would

not get this on a commuter train in a cold morning in london. this is part of this city. do you know everyone on this carriage?— this carriage? yes. from the trainjourney? _ this carriage? yes. from the trainjourney? yes. - this carriage? yes. from the train journey? yes. you i this carriage? yes. from the | trainjourney? yes. you have train “ourney? yes. you have trainjourney? yes. you have train friends? _ trainjourney? yes. you have train friends? a _ trainjourney? yes. you have train friends? a community? j train friends? a community? very good. is it lucky to have a seat on the train? lucky. yes, very lucky. she's very lucky. like you. like me? yes. like year. like you.

so, here we are, and ancient fortified city, crowded and noisy as i expected. let's go and explore. just a few minutes from the station, along a dusty busy road stands this jaw—dropping and little—known architectural wonder. built in the late 19th century this is an elaborate mausoleum blending indian islamic gothic and european architecture. the intricate carvings took over a decade to complete and the whole structure reflects the opulence and influences at the time. back in the day, under the british raj, there were hundreds of princely states run by maharajas, powerful and

wealthy men. there was one such character here, a man who made a decision that still has ramifications for relations between india and pakistan even today. these men led lavish lifestyle in stark contrast to ordinary indians. this man, was no different. we ordinary indians. this man, was no different.— no different. we celebrate the marriaue no different. we celebrate the marriage with _ no different. we celebrate the marriage with all _ no different. we celebrate the marriage with all the - no different. we celebrate the marriage with all the pomp i no different. we celebrate the | marriage with all the pomp and splendour— marriage with all the pomp and splendour of— marriage with all the pomp and splendour of the _ marriage with all the pomp and splendour of the princely - splendour of the princely weddind _ splendour of the princely wedding-— splendour of the princely weddin. , ., wedding. this man was ten in 1946 and recalls _ wedding. this man was ten in 1946 and recalls the - wedding. this man was ten in | 1946 and recalls the splendour 19a6 and recalls the splendour of the ceremony. 1946 and recalls the splendour of the ceremony.— of the ceremony. escorted by the royal— of the ceremony. escorted by the royal guard, _ of the ceremony. escorted by the royal guard, the - of the ceremony. escorted by i the royal guard, the bridegroom drives— the royal guard, the bridegroom drives and — the royal guard, the bridegroom drives and state. _ the royal guard, the bridegroom drives and state. here _ the royal guard, the bridegroom drives and state. here comes- drives and state. here comes the costly— drives and state. here comes the costly profusion - drives and state. here comes the costly profusion of- drives and state. here comes. the costly profusion of wedding

gifts _ the costly profusion of wedding iifts_ ~ , . ., , the costly profusion of wedding iifts_ ~ ,.., , ., the costly profusion of wedding gifts. musicians, all of that, and he recalls _ gifts. musicians, all of that, and he recalls getting i gifts. musicians, all of that, and he recalls getting his i and he recalls getting his first taste of this other world. the first time i saw bread, butter, sandwich, that was not known to us here. i said, you eat this? this is bread. they were small, these pastries. i still remember, there was one huntley and palmer biscuit. the important thing is the photographs, the photograph of him. his thing is the photographs, the photograph of him.— photograph of him. his most legendary — photograph of him. his most legendary indulgent - photograph of him. his most legendary indulgent was i photograph of him. his most legendary indulgent was his | legendary indulgent was his love of animals. his legendary indulgent was his love of animals.— legendary indulgent was his love of animals. his main hobby was dogs- _ love of animals. his main hobby was dogs- he —

love of animals. his main hobby was dogs. he was _ love of animals. his main hobby was dogs. he was mad - love of animals. his main hobby was dogs. he was mad about i was dogs. he was mad about dogs. breeds from all over the world. he would celebrate dogs, have parties for dogs. but with the advent of independence, the power and influence of the royal rulers was coming to an end. come partition, he wanted to make things part of pakistan. even though it hundreds of kilometres from the border. infuriated, the new indian government rallied its troops. the new start coming that the army is coming. huge gangs,

drugs and jeeps and guns and everything. the state was besieged on three sides, also. an economic blockade was ordered cutting off food supplies to the region. eventually, he fled to pakistan. yet, to this day, his great grandson still lays claim to that city and the episode lingers as a reminder of the last days of the raj in india. and 65 kilometres down the road, his legacy as an animal lover extraordinaire continues. with the most regal of creatures... lines may have

iconic status here, they are a royal symbol and in hindu mythology but in the last century they were threatened with instincts and —— extinction. i'm going to the final abode of the asiatic lion. the raj tracked the forest to provide stable security of the lines and banned hunting. they are smaller and paler than their african relatives. and these are their modern day protectors, india's first female forest rangers, the lion queens. now they are part of a team that perform more animal rescues than any other wildlife park in the world.

0n on average, the unarmed rangers cover 25 kilometres a day and have to tackle venomous snakes, leopards and poachers, as well as lions. if they did get agitated, how would you be able to tell from the animal? how would you know if you're safe being this close to them? and it did get dangerous early on in her career here.

applications for women for these posts have rocketed in these posts have rocketed in the rangers are role models and trailblazers in the region today. 0h, trailblazers in the region today. oh, look at that mouth! the good news is from once being in danger numbers have climbed to over 500. the much more welcome problem is whether the sanctuary is big enough for the sanctuary is big enough for the growing population. so, the first part of my travels across india come to a close. but next week, i head to the north—east of the country. i'm on the banks of the mighty river brahmaputra and about to go

to a very spiritual place. the amount of people crammed on here as well, it's going to be an experience. a region that prides itself on tradition and creativity and the passionate desire to protect this unique part of the world for future generations. hello. thanks forjoining me. we'll have a look at the weather now for the next 10 days or so. and i'm sure many of us would agree thatjuly has been very unsettled and indeed very wet in many parts of the country. and if we have a look at the computer models for the next ten days, they are indicating further unsettled weather with a strong jet stream sweeping

across the atlantic, pointing right at us. and further low pressures are expected to swing our way. and here is the more recent satellite picture with low pressure just to the north—west of the british isles, another one here. and there are further weather systems developing just off the coast of canada. and here is thatjet stream over the next few days. so it's sweeping right across the atlantic. and broadly speaking, this is a schematic here. it does separate that colder air from the northern climes, from the warmer air across the south. and it's this temperature gradient, the difference that drives this jet stream. and of course, the jet stream sweeps in weather systems, develops these low pressures. and this is the rainfall pattern, notjust across the uk but indeed europe. you can see how dry and sunny the weather is across the south, whereas here in central and northern parts of europe, we have the rain. now, some of that rainfall here will be from thunderstorms. but across our neck of the woods, it will be from weather systems sweeping our way. and we've had plenty of those. look at the rainfall

until about the 27th ofjuly in northern ireland, we've had 18a% of the average. in england, about 163. but from one region to another, that actually varies greatly. in the north—west of the country it's been even wetter than that. let's have a look at the forecast then for the weekend. so sunny spells and scattered showers. so here's that area of low pressure sweeping across the uk. that also means fairly blustery conditions. this is a picture around lunchtime. so let's start with the morning. not particularly cold temperatures will be around 12 to 15 degrees celsius and already in the morning, some of us will be waking up to a scattering of showers, but also plenty of sunshine around as well. here's the low center, brisk winds on the southern flank of this area of low pressure, quite gusty around some of these western coasts. i think the heaviest of the showers will form across northern ireland, parts of scotland and northern england. so if you live in the south and the south—east, i think that's where the best of the weather will be. but for the cricket,

it does look as though there's a chance of showers pretty much every day. and of course, it's scheduled until monday. let's have a look at the forecast now for saturday. so here's thatjet stream once again and another area of low pressure waiting in the wings and this time, i think extensive clouds sweeping into western and south western parts of the country early on sunday morning. rain and drizzle murky around the coasts, but not everywhere. in fact, across scotland there'll be some sunshine. in aberdeen not looking bad for the borders and also the north—east of england. and here, temperatures not far off 20 celsius. that's sunday, here's the outlook for the week ahead. for next week, that is temperatures typically around the low twenties across the south of the country, the high teens in the north. and from the weather icons, you gather that the weather is going to be quite changeable with frequent showers.

and as we head into early august, yes, briefly, high pressure will pay us a visit. that does mean sunny, warmer weather. but then very quickly, low pressure will once again sweep in to bring us yet more unsettled weather.

live from washington, this is bbc news. moscow's diplomatic dance: as the russia—africa summit wraps up, visiting leaders urge president putin to rejoin the grain export deal. the head of the wagner mercenaries seems to be back at work, a month after leading a failed mutiny in russia. and fighting on ukraine's frontline intensifies,

as a russian missile strike injures five in dnipro. i'm helena humphrey. good to have you with us. russia's ambitions for its place on the world stage have been on full display this week: president putin has been hosting the russia—africa summit, seeking to extend his influence on the continent. 17 african leaders attended the events in st peterburg. that's sharply down from the a3 who attended in 2019. and while there has been discussions about the war in ukraine, and how to end it, the key talking point has been about grain. some african leaders are worried their population will have less access to food, after russia backed out of a crucial export deal just over a week ago. meanwhile, russia is working to strengthen ties to north korea. defence minister sergey shoigu

met kimjong—un in pyongyang.