voice-over: this is bbc news. we'll have the headlines for you at the top of the hour, which is straight after this programme. this is mongolia, a land of deserts, mountains and the step. it is home to around 1 million nomads. for centuries they have survived off the land, shepherding livestock and

moving their cams from season to season. it is an unforgiving environment. today many are struggling and i want to experience for myself what it is like. i left the house nearly 2a hours ago. my body clock is very confused. my name is lucy hedges. higher travel a lock and work on the move, a digital nomad and i love it. but i have left my laptop to find to find out more about the traditional nomads finding out about a lifestyle that has been passed down for generations, beginning with those living in the capital. i will let rip at a throat singing lesson, to a unique tainted suburb. this is unlike anything i have ever

seen before and crunch my way through some market bartering. his face says it all. join me on my epic adventure from the city to the step. —— steppe. where are you from? from london and this is my first time in mongolia. very exciting. fix, mongolia. very exciting. beautiful country, young city, young people. beautiful country, young city, young morale-— beautiful country, young city, young people. that is what i am feelinu young people. that is what i am feeling so _ young people. that is what i am feeling so far. _ young people. that is what i am feeling so far. the _ young people. that is what i am feeling so far. the city - young people. that is what i am feeling so far. the city is - feeling so far. the city is home to 1.6 million people, almost half of mongolia's entire population. i thought

the traffic in london was bad. there is a lot of traffic. i heard a really fun fight. anyone with a car can moonlight as a taxi driver. is that right. as a taxi driver. is that ri . ht. , as a taxi driver. is that| right._ anyone as a taxi driver. is that - right._ anyone can right. it is true. anyone can flan right. it is true. anyone can fla: a right. it is true. anyone can flag a car — right. it is true. anyone can flag a car down _ right. it is true. anyone can flag a car down and - right. it is true. anyone can flag a car down and if - right. it is true. anyone can flag a car down and if a - right. it is true. anyone can i flag a car down and if a driver wants to take them, they can jump wants to take them, they can jump in. wants to take them, they can “um in. , ~ ., ., jump in. yes. with average earnings — jump in. yes. with average earnings of _ jump in. yes. with average earnings of around - jump in. yes. with average earnings of around $540 i jump in. yes. with average earnings of around $540 a | jump in. yes. with average - earnings of around $540 a month lots of people here have a side hustle. . , ., ., lots of people here have a side hustle. . , . ., lots of people here have a side hustle. . , ., ., ., hustle. that is a great way to make extra _ hustle. that is a great way to make extra money. - hustle. that is a great way to make extra money. are - hustle. that is a great way to make extra money. are you | hustle. that is a great way to i make extra money. are you not worried about picking up questionable characters? i could be a murderer. in the tower has grown enormously in a short space of time. since 1990 its population has trebled. across the city centre construction continues on shiny new high—rises driven by a decades long mining boom. to get a better look, i'm heading to one of the city's best

viewpoints. this has been quite the climb. i was secretly hoping there would be a chairlift. unfortunately, nothing. as far as views go, this one is not bad. 2024 marks a special anniversary for you be, a full century since it changed forever. come on. you can do it. it is easy. to find out more i have arranged to meet a local expert. great to meet a local expert. great to meet you. you look out of breath, nice to meet you nonetheless. he moved here in 2018. paint me a picture. what with this place looked like 100 years ago because i imagine very different.— years ago because i imagine very different. yes, massively different _ very different. yes, massively different. it _ very different. yes, massively different. it would _ very different. yes, massively different. it would have - very different. yes, massively different. it would have been|

very different. yes, massively| different. it would have been a tented city, streets, horses, count in some places are nowhere near as big. what changed 100 years ago? in short, the soviets. angola was the first country outside of russia to turn communist. and 100 years ago in 1924, the soviets gave this city its name which means red hero. this soviets gave this city its name which means red hero.- which means red hero. this is the square. — which means red hero. this is the square, the _ which means red hero. this is the square, the heart - which means red hero. this is the square, the heart of - which means red hero. this is the square, the heart of the l the square, the heart of the city, a good place to meet. you can still see _ city, a good place to meet. you can still see a _ city, a good place to meet. you can still see a lot _ city, a good place to meet. you can still see a lot of— can still see a lot of soviet influence.— can still see a lot of soviet influence. , , " :: , influence. yes. the pre-19 20s was when _ influence. yes. the pre-19 20s was when a — influence. yes. the pre-19 20s was when a few _ influence. yes. the pre-19 20s was when a few buildings - influence. yes. the pre-19 20s was when a few buildings and i was when a few buildings and permanent structures here and the soviets have built these in and then the factories around the outside and that really did draw a lot of people in, not just nomads. you needed to get the country started in its own way. it the country started in its own wa . , ., , the country started in its own wa . , . , ., ., way. it must have been a real culture shock _ way. it must have been a real culture shock for _ way. it must have been a real culture shock for some - way. it must have been a real culture shock for some of -

way. it must have been a real culture shock for some of the | culture shock for some of the people moving into the city. it was. the soviets cracked on nomadic life by confiscating herders' livestock. now that mongolia is a democracy many communist statues have been replaced by tributes to the national hero, genghis khan. but he wants to show me one spectacular example that has survived. it spectacular example that has survived. , ., ., , survived. it is one of my favourite _ survived. it is one of my favourite places - survived. it is one of my favourite places in - survived. it is one of my favourite places in us i survived. it is one of my i favourite places in us still. i favourite places in ub still. i really like it. this is pretty special. with a view as well behind. , , ., ., behind. this is the memorial monument _ behind. this is the memorial monument constructed i behind. this is the memorial- monument constructed originally in 1956 and it was to commemorate the soviet soldiers and allied soldiers that lost their lives during the second world war. the main tower is 27

metres tall and then eventually, the mosaic was added to this, which shows kind of the mongolian soviet friendship. over here is my favourite section and you can see the mongolians clearly in the traditional dress, and especially in the way she is great in, the true traditional mongolian way of offering the bowl of milk with the traditional mongolian scarf underneath it. i traditional mongolian scarf underneath it.— traditional mongolian scarf underneath it. i love anything that is able _ underneath it. i love anything that is able to _ underneath it. i love anything that is able to tell— underneath it. i love anything that is able to tell a _ underneath it. i love anything that is able to tell a story i that is able to tell a story and give you a sense that history and this really does that perfectly with the help of rich of course. walking around, it is a mix of the old and the new. all soviet buildings and new. all soviet buildings and new skyscrapers but even in this bustling metropolis there

are places where you can step backin are places where you can step back in time and experience mongolia's nomadic past. i have come to the theatre. this is throat singing. he is sounding two notes at the same time, low, guttural drone and the higher pitched melody over the top. a round of applause. first of all, thank you for that amazing, incredible performance. tell me a bit about yourself and how you got started.

he isa he is a member of a rock group, updating this ancient art for a new audience. it takes years to master but we have all start somewhere. ok, i am ready for my throat singing lesson and i apologise in advance for what is about to come out of my mouth.

0k. ok. just here, not here. ah, ah. ah. ah, ah. ah! how was that? yes, good. now i've not how was that? yes, good. now i've got my _ how was that? yes, good. now i've got my growl. _ how was that? yes, good. now i've got my growl, time - how was that? yes, good. now i've got my growl, time to i how was that? yes, good. now i've got my growl, time to try a tune. ah!

ican i can see you doing that in small, medium and... that is about as much as my lungs can do. but outside of the museum, mongolian tradition continues

to transform this city. hundreds of thousands of nomads have moved here in search of better opportunities and an easier way of life. and most of them end up in ub's sprawling outskirts. i can just see lots of colourful rooftops and what looks like a lot of character, and it goes on for miles and miles. this is the ger district, a vast patchwork of small buildings and traditional tents. it's estimated to be home to 900,000 people, more than half of ub's population. hi, daria. hi, lucy. how are you? i'm good, i'm good. i'm meeting daria, who runs a local non—profit called gerhub. so ger is both felt and a wooden form of dwelling that's perfect for a nomadic lifestyle to pack up and go. yes. but we used, we carried on that form of dwelling into our urban areas. and so you'll not see these

kind of settlements anywhere else in the world. but despite the tranquillity, living here isn't easy. every day is a bit of a struggle for the ger area residents. you're connected to the electrical grid, and that's about it. so people have to, you know, fetch their household water. they have to burn coal to heat or cook. you don't have plumbing either, so a lot of challenges also emerge from that. the residents' use of coal—burning stoves has contributed to another problem... some of the world's worst air pollution. but despite all that, daria is upbeat about these communities. there's a lot of misconception that ger area residents want to go live in an apartment building, but for some former nomads, it feels so constricted living and being surrounded by four walls, so we wanted to offer that perspective for tourists. daria's non—profit began

running community tours in 2022. davga and herfather, sambuu, have lived on this plot of land for the past 30 years. ok, so what's the correct etiquette before i enter? so, when you're entering in, make sure you step in with your right foot first. 0k. and be careful not to bump your head on the door frame because if you do so, you're going to be bringing in bad luck to the ger. 0k. and i've got very high hair, so i've got to be very careful. yes. 0k. inside, i'm offered a traditional mongolian welcome of fermented horse milk... thank you. ..and some sweets. it is, yes. and it is not disappointing me at all so far. both father and daughter make a living, in part,

by selling traditional mongolian arts and crafts. davga's ger is decorated with her paper cuttings, while sambuu creates games and souvenirs. wow! he grew up on the steppe. as for davga, she offers tourists the chance to try their own paper cuttings. we're making a hole.

ok, let's compare the two now. i mean, you can't even tell which one's mine and which one's davga's, right? the money raised from these tours is then reinvested into cleaner energy initiatives... ..and other community projects. so, we're at the ger innovation hub, and this is a community space located in the heart of this neighbourhood. and tonight we're hosting a game night. and i hear words on the street is that it's going to turn into a dance party soon. oh, right! sounds like my kind of vibe.

so, as you can see here, we've got some people playing cards. i'm not sure what's going on here. i'd like to think it's a drinking game. saim banoo. hi! so, we mainly use this space for all sorts of different events, whether it be, like, hands—on workshops or it be seminars and talks orjust, you know, having fun and partying like tonight. how would you sum up the nomad experience in ulaanbaatar in 2024? i would say it's all about perseverance and adaptability. it's such a harsh environment, and the climate is ever—changing, but mongolians, they have that drive within themselves to continue going, to continue changing things, to improve their living conditions. that was brilliant. i love the fact that everyone's just come together

all in the name of fun. it's a beautiful evening. if this is what being a 21st century nomad is all about, then, mate, sign me up. but here in the city, i know i'm not getting the full nomadic experience. the real challenge will be trying to survive in the steppe. first, though, i'll need some supplies. so, i've enlisted the help of my translator, uchka. so, uchka, i'm ready to get my shop on. so talk me through where we are. so, we are outside of the outdoor market, yeah, and then you can find everything in here. everything? yes. with hundreds of stalls, the narantuul market is the size of nine football pitches. well, i've got my list. maybe i'll see you back here in about... half an hour? let's say an hour. 0k. yeah. good. all right? yeah. i'm ready. let's go.

go. i have three items on my list. a traditional mongolian outfit called a deel, riding boots, and gifts for the family i'm staying with. and i'm sticking to a budget of 400,000 tugrik, which is about £90. i'm looking for boots for horses, riding. she said, "this way." horse? horse. yes! 350,000. that's pretty much nearly all my budget. i'm faced with a choice — stay and haggle... . .01’ run away. the haggling thing for me, just it's the awkwardness when they're like, "no, no," and i'm like, "please, lower." and in the end ijust give

in and say, "do you know what? i'll pay the full price." i'vejust got to toughen up, really. speaks mongolian 200. 200? that's half my budget. that's not good. yes, bring out the phone. i'm going in. i'm going in for some haggling. yes? 0h! i went in for 130,000, and we've got a result. thank you very much. thank you very much. next up is the deel. not this one, blue. this matches my hair. i don't want that. this one. i like this one. yes! right. let's negotiate a price

before i try this on. 280,000. that's pretty spendy. his face says it all. i've taken 100,000 off. 0k, 0k. 200,000. how do i look? yeah? we have 180,000. it's a deal for the deel. now all that's left is the gifts... some of these things are beautiful. ..but with uchka waiting at the gates, the clock is ticking. uchka was not kidding. you can pick up traditional dress and a chainsaw here.

ooh, we've got candy, which i think will make a nice present for the kids. who doesn't love pick �*n' mix? i need two kilos, about two kilos' worth of sweets. yeah. what about these ones? yeah, these. these, yeah, some berry sweets. 0k. these ones look pretty good, too. 27,000. thank you so much. ok, i've survived. i've got everything that i need. now ijust need to work out how the hell i get out of here. uchka, i need a hug. how was it? i think i got into the flow quite nicely. i stayed within my budget. nonverbal haggling is my cup of tea. i could do that all day, so i'm good to go. ready for the steppe. yeah. next time... this is amazing. ..i spend 48 hours living on the mongolian steppe... ..experiencing for myself...

..the wonders... ..and hardships of this extraordinary way of life. thunderclap we are really racing against time now. hello. the weather conditions continue to deteriorate across many parts of the uk, but especially out towards the west as storm darragh begins to batter the uk and ireland. the red warning of wind from the met office has been issued for parts of wales and also parts of southwestern england, and is valid from 3am on saturday to 11am on saturday. that's when the peak of the winds will occur —

danger to life, travel disruption, power cuts, and ferocious conditions out to sea — winds could be gusting to around 90 miles an hour. now, rest of the day, a much wider amber warning will also be in force across many western parts of the uk, with winds up to about 80 miles an hour, also bringing damage and disruption and nasty conditions around coastal areas as well. on top of that, heavy rain is expected across southern parts of wales. throughout this period here, the amber warning is in force and we could see as much as 90mm of rain. so let's have a look at the weather map, then. here's that circular storm with the pressure lines, storm darragh, as it barrels across the uk. in the centre of the storm, it's calm, so there will be a period of calm, for example, across northern england and eastern england before the winds start picking up as we head towards lunchtime. now, the peak of the winds will start to ease out towards the west, but they will be picking up across central and eastern

parts of the country, so 50,60 mile an hour gusts are certainly possible, bringing disruption and also the potential for damage — again, some trees down, perhaps damage to buildings as well. and then we have to wait until early sunday before the winds really start to die down. so storm daragh will move into the near continent, still a big pressure gradient here, you can see these isobars are tightly packed, so gale force winds will be certainly around coasts with some rain showers. but out towards the west, the sun should come out, the winds will ease and it'll actually be, relatively speaking, a pleasant end to sunday — temperatures will be around single figures on sunday. and then eventually sunday into monday, a high pressure topples over the uk, nasty conditions in the mediterranean, but we've got that high pressure, and that means some sunshine and much calmer weather. do take care wherever you are.

live from london, this is bbc news. three million people in wales and the south—west of england are urged to stay at home as storm darragh hits. south korean president yoon suk yeol apologises for declaring martial law, as he faces a potential impeachment vote. rebel forces in syria say they have reached the outskirts of the city of homs. islamist fighters have already captured the cities of aleppo and hama after launching their surprise offensive last week. and five years after it was devastated by fire, notre dame cathedral reopens — with world leaders, celebrities and royalty meeting to celebrate. hello. welcome to the programme.

three million people in coastal areas of wales and southwest