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tv   Leaders with Lacqua  Bloomberg  September 3, 2023 10:30am-11:00am EDT

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when you show generosity of spirit to someone. and you want people to be saved and to have a better life, then you don't stop. the idea that we have saved five million people's lives, it's overwhelming. it's everything.
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>> it has all been driven by a consistent vision and purpose. francine: it started 56 years ago with a tie. today, ralph lauren is one of the world's most iconic fashion brands, valued at more than $8 billion with 500 stores around the globe. at the helm, a chief executive who came into the job seven years ago with no fashion experience but a determination to return the brand to luxury, attracting younger, high value customers. >> when i started the job, i often got the question, is ralph lauren still relevant? it is a painful question to listen to, honestly. but we had to some extent lost touch with that younger generation. francine: today, i speak to the ceo of ralph lauren about the
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company founder and his plans to take the company back to its roots. francine: thank you for joining us on bloomberg. patrice: very happy to be here. francine: do you have the most fun job in the world? patrice: it is pretty fun. probably the thing that attracted me to this opportunity is the opportunity to work with ralph, right? this man is a visionary, incredible entrepreneur who has had amazing success around the world, and the opportunity to work with him, to partner with him, is really special, and i cherish it every day. francine: and you have to get along. he is such a figure -- he has his name on the door. how much of it is his vision? patrice: it all starts with his vision. what is exciting is when you see where the store started, the tie, you see what it has become. i talk about our purpose is to inspire the dream with a better life of authenticity and time
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less style. and that has been the driving force for the company. now we are around the world, well beyond ties. we have hospitality, restaurants, coffee shops, the women's business, the home business, but all still driven by a very consistent vision ambition, and this is a business very much about trends, and ralph says i hate fashion because fashion comes and goes. we talk a lot about style timelessness. that is consistent. francine: what was it like the first time you met him? patrice: there was a moment that was incredibly special. i got a chance to see him at his ranch in telluride. right after i got the job. that's probably the most iconic moment for me. you can also give you perspective on that first engagement. we are outside on his ranch and it is chilly. we are looking ahead at this beautiful mountain view.
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it was important to be clear and have a consistent ambition. and we landed we are in the dreams business. ralph lauren, you are in the apparel business. you are a fashion company. would disagree with that. he francine: is he easy to work with? patrice: he is wonderful to work with. there is always this vision that the creative leader in a fashion company can be challenging, and there have always been stories around that, but ralph is an incredible partner. he is both an amazing visionary and a great business man. that has been a key part of his success. we have been super clear on our respective roles, and although nothing is written on a piece of paper, we are clear who is responsible for what and where we come together, and i could not be happier with the partnership. francine: there was also a moment where you had to change the company, get away from the department stores. that lowered the ambition for the company. how hard was that?
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patrice: from a financial standpoint, it is challenging, but if you go back to the roots of this company, this company was founded as a luxury company . and the first tie that ralph launched was 2.5 times the price of a christiano george tie. they were an incredible luxury company. we had to pull back our presence in the u.s. because the brand was overextended. we reduced about two thirds of our wholesale stores. as i look now, we are two or three years into the exercise, we are in a much stronger place. our brand perception is much stronger. our value perception is much stronger. francine: the elevation journey, ultraluxury was not necessarily a given. right now when you look at luxury companies, it is clear if you are in the ultraluxury space, you can increase prices, you have a lot more markets around the world instead of moderate luxury. what made you see that back then?
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patrice: i think it is back to what the company stood for. you see this bifurcation where consumers see the value. others are just focused on selling product and not engaging than consumers in the same way. much more promotional. we felt like we go back to our roots, that is where we wanted to take the company. francine: how do you create those moments where people associate you with wimbledon or some of the shows they watch on tv that elevates luxury? patrice: it is a very holistic exercise, so not just one thing. francine: is there one thing you think works better than others? is it flagship stores with coffee shops that have a distinct lifestyle that you think people are drawn to more than online? patrice: for us, the way we think about it is 30 key cities around the world. we don't really look at markets. we look at key cities. in each key city, we want to have a balanced ecosystem.
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start with a flagship store that's going to project the image. our approach in china, for example, is very much driven by the city focus, establish a strong flagship, and build the ecosystem around it. i don't know that i can point to just one interaction. i think the transformation in our marketing and storytelling has also been quite effective, particularly creating a younger consumer. that was one of our priorities when i started. francine: which is one of the hardest. patrice: the hardest. they are fickle. francine: and they change. patrice: when i started, i often got the question, is ralph lauren still relevant? which is a painful question to listen to, honestly, but we had to some extent lost touch with the younger generation. the company is 56 years old and we expect to be here another 56 years from now. it was critical to rejuvenate that younger base and we pivoted our marketing to be where that
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younger consumer is. gaming. the type of sports activation that resonates with them. styling the product differently. what is very interesting is our white polo shirt, one of our icons, you have 80-year-old man wearing it, 40-year-old women wearing it, 16-year-old kids wearing it. same product but we style it differently. francine: is your secret sauce that you are the right lifestyle brand for the right moment? people don't go to haute couture events anymore or they have a more relaxed approach when they come to the office. patrice: hopefully, more than this moment because we want to be here another 50 years. but i do think what ralph and the teams have been able to be able to create over time is that lifestyle proposition. we are not outerwear experts or sneaker experts. we offer lifestyle and this range of product. as we have seen people still working from home, partly going back to the office, going back to social events, we have the
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ability to serve you with a more feature driven proposition. francine: are we going to the office in hoodies now? has work from home changed us? patrice: maybe it depends which industry you are in. at ralph lauren, i have not seen many people in hoodies. ralph does come in every so often in a double rl hoodie, but he does make it look elegant.
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francine: ralph lauren has raised the average price of his product by around 18% since 2018 as it aims to elevate its brand and become a lifestyle company, something the chief executive is passionate about. i continue the conversation with patrice louvet. when you look at pricing, you have also been able to really elevate the brand by increasing prices. is there a limit to how much you can increase prices before it hurts demand? patrice: it is up close to 80% since we started on this journey. short answer is i don't think there is a limit as long as we do a good job of elevating the product, the storytelling, the environment, making sure the customer sees the value, and they have so far. our value perceptions are at the highest since we have been tracking, but the onus is on us to provide this consistent elevation, that the consumer sees it, and it supports this continued growth in retail. francine: talk to me about china.
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it has huge potential but is still quite a small market for you. patrice: huge short, midterm, and long-term market for us. it is about 6% of the company today. it is double what it was four years ago, but still quite small when you look at the penetration of the chinese business for some of the best players in the luxury industry that are putting 30%, 40%. i'm excited about the opportunities. what is really energizing for us in china is how the brand is connecting with the younger consumer and more elevated consumer. oddly enough, i think as a result of the elevation work the teams have done, our most elevated products we sell best in china. we have the best gender balance. as i believe you know, most of our business historically has been more men. in china, it is a balance, more good men and women. it is a relatively young consumer, late 20's and early
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30's. it is a good example for us for the rest of the world. we are being very deliberate in our approach with the rest of china. we could grow faster but we want to do it in a quality way. we are building a quality brand so that serves us well five years from now, 10 years from now. i'm excited about more generally asia than china. francine: are you worried that you dilute the brand? patrice: yes, i think the notion of desirability is critical for this industry. there is an element of exclusivity that is important to support it. that's why we pulled back in the u.s. where we felt like we were over distributed. to some extent, ubiquity can be a challenge in the luxury space. not to some extent, it is a challenge in the luxury space. you want to stay unique and special. that's why we are building in markets like china or india, which are promising for the future, being very deliberate planting the right foundations so we can build from there with the right image perception. francine: the world is changing. we talked about ai, sustainability, and the need for fashion companies to do more. how much time do you spend thinking about sustainability?
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patrice: a lot, and i will tell you why. i will go back to our conversation on purpose earlier. inspire a better life. timelessness and sustainability go together. you cannot expect to be timeless if you run out of resources. sustainability is not a reaction to external pressure. it is core to who we are and what we stand for, and to a very strong extent, it is about future-proofing our business. you need to focus on sustainability to recruit the younger consumer. they want to work for companies that care about this planet, that do more than generate revenue and profit. you need sustainability to attract consumers. more and more, the younger consumer cares deeply about what you are doing differently. are you making a difference? investors, particularly in europe more and more, place value on if you are being sustainable. many of our partners have
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expectations on sustainability. francine: what does that look for in a luxury lifestyle company? patrice: for us, it is multidimensional. right now, we are putting a lot of emphasis on circularity. i think if we are able to shift the business model in fashion from linear to circular that's , probably one of the biggest changes we can make that has the biggest impact. obviously, that's a total ecosystem, but to give you some example, it is innovating how we design. we just launched the first cradle to cradle certified cash -- cashmere sweater. it is innovating in materials. there is a company in italy that helps us with recycling cashmere. it is leveraging in scale. in sustainability, we cannot go it alone. francine: do you sell differently to the chinese than to the american consumers in terms of lifestyle, or is it still a similar lifestyle? patrice: i think the fundamentals of our lifestyle or in the different movies we
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showcase and different stories we tell are pretty consistent. 's if anything, just in the way consumers dress and engage with fashion brands. this is a generalization, but on average, the chinese consumer just like the japanese consumer, tends to be more elevated and sophisticated in the types of styles they put together, so that informs part of our value and our product. francine: more innovative? it is not necessarily more edgy. more luxurious? patrice: it is more luxurious. it is actually more elevated and more luxurious. francine: there seems to be a trend, and you may be one of the first ones, to get chief executives from parts of the industry that were not luxury and fashion that were actually consumer products. is there a parallel? do consumer products chief executives do better than luxury? patrice: that is a big statement. i'm not going to answer that question directly. the trend started in beauty, actually. beauty is where you started to
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see the professional coming first, and now we are seeing that in the fashion world. i think at the end of the day, success in this industry is getting the balance right between magic and logic. the fashion industry, creative leaders have the magic. there's an opportunity to bring a higher level of logic without diluting the magic, and i think what people from consumer goods industry bring are creative focus on the consumer, understanding the consumer. where you get success is designer vision, customer needs come together, and that's where things get exposed. great understanding of consumer, more data, more experience, leveraging data in decision-making. there's an element of intuition that needs to be protected, but that can be supplemented by data. francine: what's the ideal algorithm? patrice: it is confidential, i cannot tell you. francine: you would have to kill
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me. patrice: no, i would not do that, but we look at a number of metrics, consumer profile, competitive environment, the type of product being sold in the area, and the last thing i would point to is operational discipline. these are complex businesses . we developed a lot of sku's every year. complex supply chains. i think what you learn in the consumer goods industry is how to run pretty rigorous and disciplined supply chains and just general operations, and a a lot of these companies are 5, 10, 15, $20 billion. the level of complexity requires great expertise. francine: how do you choose celebrity influencers? you said we used to rely on magazines. everything is changing. are consumers more influenced by influencers and celebrities?
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patrice: yes. francine: is it more controlled compared to 10 years ago? patrice: it was less spokes people. and now, you have a much broader palette. what is critical to us is authenticity. the concept of i'm going to write you a big check today and you are going to talk about us . and tomorrow, you show up on a competitive brand because you got another big check, we are not interested in that. not interested in that. we ♪ ♪ the biggest ideas inspire new ones. 30 years ago, state street created an etf
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francine: more than half of ralph lauren's customers are women. yet they represent less than a third of sales. it is an area the chief executive sees as an opportunity as he bets on growth in women's merchandise. i continued the conversation with patrice louvet. what is next for ralph lauren? are you going to focus on sleepwear? are there other parts you think you can grow a lot more? patrice: what is amazing about what ralph has created is we can enter a lot of spaces with automatic credibility. we are one of the hottest restaurants in new york. we are looking for an
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opportunity to open one here in london, but that is not a core priority for us. it is part of our ecosystem. next spaces for us are winning with women. as i mentioned earlier, our business historically has been driven by men. today, 56% of our customers are actually women on our website and stores. they represent less than 30% of our business, so that is a massive opportunity for us. i think as we get to understand her better, develop the right products for her, present the products in a way that resonates for her, which may not be the same way as for men, that is a big opportunity for us, and that is an area that is part of completing this, and we are looking at the home. if you reflect on ralph's approach to the space, he creates these environments and this world, you can really picture how it translates into home, so that is an area of growth for us. longer term, i'm excited about the perspectives. francine: the metaverse. are you excited about the
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metaverse? i was. but now, we talk about ai, so everyone forgot about the metaverse. patrice: that is where the younger population is, where they want to engage with brands like us. we want to play a leadership role. i'm excited about what we are doing. we have a partnership with fortnite. francine: how does that work? patrice: you can play on fortnite, you can dress your player in the ralph lauren skin. there are some cool boots we have developed you can dress your player with. we have actually done a physical version as well. francine: was that quite a gamble? patrice: yes. francine: it is brave, so it paid off. it could have backfired. patrice: true. here's where i go back to the roots of the company. ralph started with a tie. we could be here 56 years later being the market global leader of ties.
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part of the dna of this company is trying things, innovating, expanding, experimenting, so we stay true to that. i always talk about the fact that the only failure is a failure of learning. even if we try and involved as , long as we capture the learnings and apply them elsewhere, it was a success. francine: what are you like as leader? a risk-taker? patrice: if you ask people throughout my career how they would describe me, they say -- i think they would say servant leader. i really believe my job is to set the team up for success and create the conditions for people to leverage their full potential. if i do that, i will be fine. i think people will say listener. there's a great quote from a greek philosopher that's like, we have two ears and one mouth. there's a reason for that. people say i am a learner.
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i emphasize learning. ralph is an incredible inspiration because where he is in life he is constantly learning. i use that as inspiration. i am a measured risk taker, i would say. i am not a swing for the fence risk taker, but i believe in innovating and trying new things. and you feel the energy inside the company today. i love that spirit of trying things, and again, learning. francine: what is a good day in the louvet world? how do you measure success? patrice: a good day for me is time in the stores. francine: what do you do? do you change things around? patrice: i try to hold myself back from doing that. it is tempting, but i try to avoid doing that. i just listen to the stories of our teams tell me, both in terms of how they are engaging customers, what we can do better in terms of the brand and product and also how they are building culture within their stores. francine: and you are committed to the u.k.? patrice: very committed to the
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u.k. second-biggest market for the company. historic market for us and great inspiration for ralph. this market is very important for us. francine: worst day in the office? patrice: i have not had a lot. when the numbers are not coming in the way you would like them to, that's unpleasant, but that is life in the business world. when we are not able to get the balance right between the magic and the logic and the groups are not communicating well, that obviously can be frustrating. the fashion industry, one of the lovely things about it is it is very emotional. one of the challenging things about it is it is very emotional. it is managing people's emotions. francine: were you surprised that even in this cost-of-living crisis luxury does so well? patrice: i think people need to dream. when the environment is more challenging, people still need to dream. they need someone who is going to give them hope and bring optimism, and i think that is what the best luxury companies do well. francine: where will you be in five years? patrice: we are on an incredible
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journey in terms of growth and geographically. expansion we will be stronger in asia. we will establish good presence in india. we will be better distributed across europe. we will be more present in the w of the u.s. because that is a big, white space for us. i think you will see our women's i think you will see our women's business be more successful andg
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when you show generosity of spirit to someone. and you want people to be saved and to have a better life, then you don't stop. the idea that we have saved five million people's lives, it's overwhelming. it's everything. jennifer: welcome to "bloomberg new economy gateway africa: building a resilient,
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