smarter about that now than when i first came to k-town in the middle of the night to discover a strange and fabulous and delicious slice of america i had never known was there, but i'm trying to figure it out. this is a good place to both experience fantasy and reality. ♪ beer, explosives and food? you can't beat that. ♪ they stand here in the street,

random strangers bring you delicious foods. it's a great country. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain ♪ on my shoulder ♪ i felt something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ colombia, ordinarily and for all too many years, when this

country makes the news or appears in a film or television drama, it's not for its looks, which are, i should say right up front, spectacular. it's not for its people who who, from everyone i've ever met, anyway, warm, proud, generous and fun. or for its food, which is truly great. i don't know what this is, but it's good. food in this country is excellent. ♪ i'm no stranger to this place. generally speaking, it's a particularly vibrant mix of spanish, european, afro-caribbean, and indigenous people. these are deep waters, my friend. friends. no news story or episode of "miami vice" has ever come close to navigating. it is and always has been a fiercely, fiercely proud country, and its people yearn to see international coverage of something other than cocaine and

violence, but that isn't a legacy that's easy to ignore. its decades of civil unrest have left vast swaths of colombia relatively unknown, even to its own citizens. to reach a place previously considered a no-go area, i'll fly out of an airport in villavicencio outside of bogata. on first inspection, this is an airplane boneyard, where unwanted props from romancing the stone corrode artfully. but in reality, this sleepy hangar is an important gateway to the more impenetrable parts of the country. the remote settlements in the amazon basin are cut off from the country, with neither rail nor roads connecting them. there are only two ways in, either boat for several days

downriver, or aboard a jungle bus, which is what locals call the world war ii era dc-3. i've flown worse. i've been brought here by pablo mora, a teacher at medellin university, and a student of this classic. you've taken this flight before? >> yes, every chance i have. i come here and fly one. it's a romantic thing. >> he sees the work that these hulking great airships and their pilots do as daredevil humanitarian missions for the more remote colombians. do they have an in-flight movie? >> no, nor first class either. >> what? >> no, no. >> the planes travel with their own mechanic to cobble together anything that might go wrong and stuff can go wrong. the risk is we'll be able to

land but not take off again. so this guy is our return ticket out of the jungle. ♪ our captain is joaquin san clemente, something of a legend in these parts, and his copilot is costanza reyes. >> it's mystical. they develop this sensibility with the plane. there's no intel in sight here, no software. they have gps, but that's about it. it's beautiful, you know, they have to sense everything. they know when the sound of the plane is not right. it's just man and machine. >> the weather is the big unknown around here. it's changeable enough to ground planes in remote places if they hang around for too long.

we have to make one stop on the way to pick up more cargo. vital cargo, by the way. the land we're passing over is beautiful and lush. but the life of those below has been anything but. >> colombia seems to be trapped in a vicious circle. >> they use the territory as a haven for kidnapping -- >> until recently most of the news coming out of this part of colombia was not good. it was a front line in the war on drugs, for lack of a better term, and colombia's long

struggle with the farc, a marxist guerrilla force financed by drug trafficking, kidnapping and covert assistance from venezuela. 50 years of very dirty war. the stakes not about drugs per se, but about the ability of ordinary colombians to live without fear. we land in the jungle outpost of miraflores in the southern province in the amazonian forest reserve. the heavy presence of army and special police is a result of its strategic location and recent history as a one-time center of coca production. farmers would grow the stuff, making leaves into paste. traffickers would come and buy it. the farc had this area under its sphere of influence for years. nine years ago, the government moved to expel the farc, the traffickers and any

paramilitaries, with apparently much success. overnight, however, its population shrank by 85%. what remains struggles to survive. the people here you're telling me they were born here? >> most of the people came from elsewhere. >> at the beginning of the 1950s and '60s they were -- they were escaping from the political violence between the two parties in colombia. >> so if you were having problems in the city or wherever you were from, you came out here? >> yeah. >> so what did you do for a living out here? >> cattle and some agriculture, and after that the drug trade began and everything with the coca plantations. >> this climate is good for it? >> yeah, very good.

since 1999, there were no police or army force here, so it was just occupied by the farc. and then by the farmers who tried to -- but that's when the real violence began. >> so really the problems in this country preexisted the drug trade? >> what we say here is the drug trade just made everything more. there's no judge here. there's few institutions here. >> right. >> basically you know the state is here just because the army is here. so i think you're going to meet the major. >> anthony, this is the major. >> julio cesar gonzalez is the current mayor,s which has seen much better and much worse days. how many people live in this town? >> there's around 1,500 to 2,000 in the community. they were the central authority here.

>> you're running -- plantains and not much else? not even particularly well, not particularly happy with the government, somebody comes along and offers you a nice machine gun and a cool scarf, especially if you're 15, 16 years old. >> yeah. >> that's a pretty attractive option. >> of course it is. >> even if they say you probably will be dead by the time you're 25. >> it is, and they offer you a salary. >> what is the future of this town? [ speaking foreign language ] >> they're providing free education, and there's a lot of potential in biodiversity and ecotourism as well. >> what a lot of people say is without the customer, there's no cocaine trade, there's no violence, right? so is the united states and europe stopped buying cocaine? >> it's so impossible, i can't think about it, about the situation where the demand is not going to be there. >> but demand in the states is down 40%.

>> as long as there's a market, there will be people ready to do it. >> the united states spends billions of dollars a year paying for guns and uniforms, training, et cetera. where should they be spending it? >> i would say the health is very important, but more important is to end the war on drugs. it just doesn't work. >> here's my problem. if crack didn't exist, i would have no -- i would absolutely agree with you, but as a former coke addict and former crackhead, you know, that is a problem. >> the thing is people think if you think that drugs should be legalized, you're saying they're good. no, they're not saying that, we're just getting rid of one problem. >> you're freeing up a lot of money you could divert? >> yes, we have two ferocious. >> i agree. >> we have drug addiction and drug trafficking. we can get rid of one, we're

not going to get rid of the other. we have to deal with it forever. >> it's a beautiful country, the people here are -- from what i've been is nice, even the bad guys are charming. >> that is true. >> the food is delicious. the problem is the united states will never legalize drugs. it will never happen. it's a complicated issue. >> yeah, yeah. >> so the good people of this town could thank us for bringing their fresh supply of coca. cerveza, coca. it was really our pleasure. but don't worry, he'll find someone else. ♪ who's that lady? ♪ who's that lady? ♪ sexy lady ♪ who's that lady? [ female announcer ] used mops can grow bacteria. swiffer wetjet starts with a clean pad every time, and its antibacterial cleaner kills bacteria mops can spread around. swiffer gives cleaning a whole new meaning. ♪ lovely lady

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♪ bogata, the country's capital and an almost two-mile-high city with new lofty food ambitions, where previously a restaurant scene didn't really exist. now young restauranteurs such as tomas rueda are beginning to make a name for themselves in colombia. >> this is one of the biggest markets in bogata. i love this place. it's very beautiful. the colors. my mom comes here to buy flowers, my grandma also. >> did i mention that this city is over 8,000 feet up? hence the altitude sickness i'm feeling. not good. tomas comes here a few times a week for an early breakfast, which i'm hoping will make me feel better.

paloquemao market has been in existence in one way or another since the 1940s. this place is huge. >> you want some juice? >> yeah. what do you have? >> orange juice with some carrot. >> probably the healthiest thing i've had in a while. >> good for the high altitude. no? this is better? >> i'm feeling better every hour. >> first hour is killing me. >> but you have a better face. >> i didn't think i was going to make it out of the airport. >> most of the mornings, early in the mornings, 5:00 to 6:00 in the morning, i climb the mountain. >> why? >> fresh air. >> okay. >> you have to come with me. >> hell, no. ain't happening.

>> you want to take some arepa. this is made with corn. [ speaking foreign language ] it's fantastic, i love it. >> tucked away in a back corner of the fish market is a place that serves breakfast for the market's workers and shoppers. we're talking beef short ribs simmered in an oily broth with potatoes, salt and scallions. tomas swears by this stuff, a traditional breakfast soup from the andean region. >> okay. gracias. >> would you like chile? >> i do. [ speaking foreign language ] >> now we're talking. >> this is perfect.

when you have a good party last night. >> i was just going to say, this is hangover food. >> perfect. >> i know hangover food well, and this is good. there's good meat in there. >> yeah. >> good broth. >> yes. >> the stock is good. what's this dish called? >> beef stock. >> rib broth. >> yes, with potatoes, of course. everything with potatoes. [ speaking foreign language ] >> very good spanish. >> i speak a little mexican. ♪ >> bogata.

back in the '90s, a very dangerous and violent place to be. today, not so much. today in my repeated experiences here, kind of awesome. the candelaria is a recently renovated old city where i meet up with hector abad, one of the most distinguished, supremely talented writers here. his recent work is about his father, who was killed for his outspoken attempts to change things for the better. so, first of all, where are we? >> puerta falsa. this is a place where many bogatans come to eat something in the middle of the morning. or in the middle of the afternoon. >> the tamales are made with chicken and pork belly combined with vegetables, rice and masa, wrapped in a banana leaf, and slow cooked for hours. this place has been serving

chocolate completo for the politicians in this nearby plaza for a couple of hundred years. >> here are the tamales. >> beautiful. it is a thing of beauty, isn't it? >> let's see if it tastes like my mother's. >> a high standard. >> i suppose it is. >> i was just in milaflores yesterday. what economy there was was entirely drug-based economy. now that the drugs are gone, there is no economy. it's a ghost town. it's a military and people sitting there staring at the space waiting for the beer to arrive. tell me something hopeful. >> i think we are becoming more and more conscious that this past decade of violence has been absolutely useless, and that we have to change many, many, many things. >> um-hmm.

>> and so -- i think -- it's not as good as my mother's. i'm sorry. >> well, it never is. if you removed cocaine from the equation, removed the drug trade as a financial engine, you would still have serious division over ideology here. is that improving? >> things are changing in a good direction, but very slowly, i think. you know, ten years ago in medellin they killed 7,500 people every year. three years ago this number came to 700 people killed in medellin in the year. so the situation has changed. >> right. >> i have only questions, i have no answers. so sorry. if i were the president, i really i -- i don't know what -- >> you wouldn't know what to do? >> no, i wouldn't. >> to suggest that a nation should expand its social

services, do its best to lift people out of poverty, to provide medical care for everyone, as you well know, that may be in the minds of many as saving the country. are those as potentially deadly and dangerous ideas as they used to be? >> well, 25 years ago my father was killed just because he was asking for these basic things like clean water, a glass of milk, and an arepa for every child. that's -- we still don't have that, and we need that. now we in colombia, maybe we are trying. i think there are some people here even in the government who are working for that. [ female announcer ] a classic meatloaf recipe from stouffer's starts with ground beef, onions and peppers baked in a ketchup glaze with savory gravy and mashed russet potatoes. what makes stouffer's meatloaf best of all?

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we didn't have u-verse back in my day.

you couldn't just... guys... there you are. you know you couldn't just pause a show in one room, then... where was i... you couldn't pause a show in one room then start playing it in another. and...i'm talking to myself... [ male announcer ] call to get u-verse tv for just $19 a month for 2 years with qualifying bundles. rethink possible. ♪ bogata is the largest city in colombia, and the economic heart of the country. about a fifth of the population lives here. many of them very well, but some not so well. it's a city with a marked north/south divide.

chef tomas rueda and the restaurant sit side by side, in the macarena areas. where the city center meets the north. if the lunch at tabula is defined by high fundamentals, than high concept theories. if there's a theme here, the ingredients this good, meticulously prepared, are the essence of great eating. such a beautiful space. so how's the restaurant business in bogota? >> a very good business. a lot of people with money, they don't know how to cook. >> nobody cooks at home. maybe their cook does. they eat out a lot? >> yeah, a new part of our culture. everybody wants to go to restaurants. >> so ten years ago, 15 years ago, what? traditional casual food? >> yeah.

>> a few fine dining, you know, white tablecloths, serving french, continental or italian? but this is new. >> it's a new business, a new world. there's two great bodies of food, the mixture of the culture, black people, indians people, white people. that mixture is beautiful. the other one is all of this region of the mountains, the valleys, the rain forests, the sea, we are like a big farm, a beautiful farm to send all these products to the world. i believe more in a beautiful carrot than a great recipe, yeah? >> right. >> this is crab salad. >> right. >> this one is from -- >> then sheets of pasta are filled with ladna cheese and finished with a chorizo sauce.

so you used to be in a band? you used to be a musician? >> yeah. i'm still. >> what happened? how did you go from music to restaurants? >> rock and roll doesn't make me money. >> this is good. >> really good. >> business is good. generally speaking, the only worse idea that i think i'll try to make a living making music is i think i'll make a living by opening a restaurant. let's see why that's so popular? good stuff. >> thank you, tony. >> tomas' take ones on osso bucco using beef shank cooked in a wood-fired oven. >> whoa, it's huge. oh, yeah. >> you don't need a knife, only a spoon. >> you're right.

>> do you cure this first in salt? >> no. >> dry it salt it? >> no. >> just fresh? >> yes. >> delicious. >> you would never get this off your menu. you'll have to keep it on your menu forever, right? >> forever. the best part. >> mama didn't raise no fool. ♪ >> santiago de cali is a city in the southwest of colombia known for its proximity to the pacific coast and semitropical temperatures, but i'm not really here for the climate. i'm here for tejo.

♪ it involves alcohol and explosives. colombian mario gallino and bandmates are to be my guide for this traditional and very colombian sport. how do you play this game? i guess that's how it's done. what do you call this object? >> el tejo. >> hence the name. >> exactly. >> i should be good at this. i've been throwing pots into the dish sink from across the room for years. >> you win more points in the middle if you don't hit anything. >> oh.

but that doesn't sound like any fun. >> everyone has a different style. you have to do one and another, and swing. >> i don't think that style is going to work for me. it turns out we all pretty much suck at this. >> not enough beer. that's my problem. time to bring in some outside muscle. >> we're going to mix in now the experts. [ speaking foreign language ] >> who am i with this i'm over here with these guys. whoa! [ speaking foreign language ] >> holy crap, two in a row? no, one of those guys had to be on my team, right?

>> the guy in the white striped shirt. his name is el pollo viejo, which is -- >> the old chicken. >> i need a poultry name. he's calling himself the old chicken. i should be the enormous cock! the chicken dude is killing it. every time. ♪ >> that's what i'm talking about. but i wanted something to blow up. it's hungry work. but the kitchen here is up to challenge, making a colombian

picata, a huge selection of fried pork, pork rib, steak, casava, potatoes, and deep-fried plantain. >> i smell food. oh, thank you. oh, that's good. a beer, explosives and food? can't beat that. yes. yes! the kyocera torque lets you hear and be heard

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allegra-d d-congests, d-pressurizes so you can breathe. a fast, non-drowsy antihistamine plus a powerful decongestant. allegra-d. d-fense against allergy congestion. if bogata is colombia's financial heart, cali is the shaking hips. people here like their music. my tejo buddies mario and will are the founders of a collective called on the tropica. their idea was to reinterpret the tropical music heritage of colombia.

what often sounds like salsa in style, is actually colombia. ♪ if there's one type of music that can be classified as distinctly colombian, this is it. ♪ cumbia draws on the african, european mix of the country, so they created a long way from the pop music that's a staple here. they brought together musicians who had been famous in the '50s and '60s, and matched them up with younger counterparts. with the impressive amount of fried meat we go for dinner at one of the band's favorite spots. >> the recording we made for three weeks in medellin, had

40 musicians and musicians from, i think the youngest was 25 maybe and the oldest was maybe 82. >> old school and new school mix? >> the idea so we can meet not only doing music, but also exchanging lots of information about how music was made, how music was recorded, what was the spirit of the music. >> so that's the idea, get back to the roots. >> first up, the cali version of seviche. cooked shrimp slathered in mayonnaise, ketchup and worcestershire sauce. it's a staple used in everything from tamales to stews. cooked rice, and guancha, not a clam -- >> like a rock mollusk pretty much.

>> it's delicious. wow. >> so this is like palau, very pacific pago rojo, red snapper. steamed shrimp, and nice green tomatoes. you find it on the corners everywhere. >> like plantain. you definitely have to come to some pacifico experience, either cali or go straight to the coast. you have to have a caribbean experience. a mountain experience, and the other would be to go to amazon, like the jungle. >> i'm planning a vacation. should i come to colombia? come to cali?

>> most definitely. you will find great music, great partying, great food, beautiful views, beautiful nature around. >> yeah, yeah, look, the country is beautiful, we know this. but most americans, they're afraid to come. is colombia any more dangerous for a tourist than rio or puerto rico? >> south central? >> i mean, my impression is no. when you go to rio, you don't wear a big watch or an expensive suit, you don't behave like an idiot, and life is going to be good. >> maybe i've been lucky, but i've never been mugged or kidnapped or robbed. most people will tell you we had an amazing time. we heard some great music, met

some beautiful girls or guys. we drank some great drinks. we hung out, went to the beach and we want to come back, you know? >> there's a of hearty here people feel very deeply. it's the most welcoming country in latin america. >> salud, salud, salud. if there was a pill to help protect your eye health as you age... would you take it? well, there is.

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♪ i leave the subtropics for more extreme climates. we're northeast of cali on colombia's caribbean sea, riohacha. la guajira borders the venezuela in the east, home to the native seminomadic people known as the wayuu. they have never taken a side with the government, the farc or the paramilitaries. they remain independent politically and live pretty much by their own code. i'm meeting juan pablo majorca, a chef from bogota who comes

this this spot for a regular basis. this is a very different part of colombia. >> it's rugged terrain, there's desert, not that much water. so that's part of why the spanish weren't able to colonize here. >> you've been coming here for some time. >> i became interested, because i began dealing with fresh fish, lobster and shrimp for me to take back to bogota. >> is it good? >> it's very good. >> goats are important to the wayuu, they're used for food, bartering, even dowry payments. rancho owners come to the old market in riohacha to sell, slaughter and cook goat in the mornings. today we're having frichi. >> it's a traditional fish.

it contists of the the heart, the intestines, and the offal. >> of the goat. >> it's fresh. they slaughter back here. this is where the women cook it. this is fresh and traditional. >> this is breakfast? >> this is breakfast for them. >> about it a little bit of everything in there. >> yes. we have hearts, a bit of meat, of ribs. it's interesting. this one is for breakfast and it's almost done. you have to eat this fresh. >> fresh, this is delicious. not fresh, this would not be so good? >> no. >> this is where i say something that takes us seamlessly from a discussion about fresh fish to me hauling my aging carcass on

an atv, sugar bear style. tribal members of the wayuu have dual citizenship and can cross the border into venezuela to live or trade there whenever they need to. luckily for us, it means that cheap gas is easy to come by in these parts. there are no stations as such. you just keep an eye out for the cans. >> this gasoline is from venezuela. it's extremely cheap. it's like 50 cents a gallon. the government subsidizes a lot of it. they're able to buy venezuelan gasoline and sell legally venezuelan gasoline in colombia. >> having taken on as much gas as can be mouth-siphoned in one sitting, we're off again. let me set the scene. it's hot out here, desert hot.

we plan to ride three hours along the coast to our lunch spot, and i ate salty goat innards for breakfast, and i refuse to wear a helmet or sunblock. we avoid wild donkeys and goats, and get lost more than a few times. so a little heatstroke leads to a lot of horsing around. we decide to open these puppies up. [ female announcer ] a classic meatloaf recipe from stouffer's starts with ground beef, onions and peppers baked in a ketchup glaze with savory gravy and mashed russet potatoes. what makes stouffer's meatloaf best of all? that moment you enjoy it at home. stouffer's. made with care, for you or your family. but kate -- still looks like...kate. nice'n easy with colorblend technology gives expert highlights and lowlights. for color that's true to you. i don't know how she does it. with nice'n easy, all they see is you.

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a momentary concussion is seldom a good thing. waking up in colombia on a beach almost always is. ♪ having abandoned the epic ride, we're back where we started in the guijira at the blue sea restaurant. how come you're all clean? >> i changed. >> you brought a change of clothes? >> yeah. i'm hurting now. i'm feeling every minute, every hour, every month and year of my age. >> so you're ready for --

>> yes. i trust it will make me feel all better. >> it's a good end. >> can't ask for better scenery. it's beautiful here. >> a beer. >> i need the anesthetic qualities of the local fire water. that's probably a really good idea. >> that's going to be a good start for tonight. >> a good start. i'm done. oh, man. that dog has the right idea. see, i'd be very happy if that was me right now. just like laying down in the sand with my chin out like that. man, it's so beautiful here. who comes here? >> basically tourists from colombia and backpackers that are making their way up to the north. >> we saw one tourist all day, and it's nice, really it's completely off the grid. >> this used to be a fisherman village. >> there are definitely worst places to eat seafood than beachside in a fishing village and the strength of this area

depends on the amount of fish available. >> it's a fish chowder made with shrimp, clams, right, a small kind of clam, a lobster, fish. >> yeah. >> and conch. >> i need a bath. very clear sky for the caribbean. >> oh, yeah. oh, man. >> always accompanied by lemon and coconut rice and plantain and some hot sauce in there. ♪ >> some good food, a few shots, the sounds of waves in the background, a nice sunset, these are things in my experience that will set most things right. thank you to guajira. >> and colombia. >> salud. cheers.

>> we had good fun. >> we had good fun. >> cheers. >> i always find colombia encouraging. they face problems more extreme and seemingly more intractable than many of us can imagine, and yet every time i come here it gets better. don't get me wrong. problems, serious problems, remain, which is particularly heartbreaking in a country so beautiful, so generous, so proud, so eager to love and be loved back. i come back to my own country from colombia and i think if they can fix that, if they can make things better, then surely there's nothing we can't do.

for now, however, i'll settle for fixing my headache. that hurt. the following is a cnn special report. >> it was a shocking trial revealing details of stabbing, stalking, and secrets. now five years after jodi arias killed her boyfriend, after months of riveting testimony, her freedom is in the jury's hands and maybe her life. tonight, you be the jury. watch the testimony and weigh the evidence yourself. we want to warn you, it is graphic, both the images and the language, and may be too explicit for younger viewers. reporting for us tonight, "ac 360's" randi kaye. >> a sordid story of sex, lies -- >> i'm not guilty. >> and audiotapes.