for now, however, i'll settle for fixing my headache. that hurt. ♪ ♪ i took a walk ♪ through this beautiful world

♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ in a beautiful world ♪ i felt the rain getting cold er ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ it takes a special breed to live in a province like quebec. it gets cold in winter, and winters are long form. it takes a special kind of

person for whom frozen rivers, icy wind-whipped streets, deep seemingly endless forests are the norm. i will confess my partisanship up front. i love montreal. it is my favorite place in canada. the people who live there are tough, crazy bastards, and i admire them for it. toronto, vancouver, i love you, but not like montreal. why? i shall explain. all will be revealed. in the meantime, check this guy out. what's the post office's motto? neither rain nor sleet nor driving senator nor plague of lock u.s.s prevent the mail carrier from delivers my junk mail? >> here in montreal, the simple task of delivers the mail in winter comes with its own set of hurdles. icy hurdles. >> i got to ask, do you have special equipment for this?

we've got to slip on boots? >> we do have our boots in the rain -- sorry, when it gets icy, with spikes on them. and then give us also slip-on spikes for when it's icy. >> any sort of city ordinance that you have to shovel or -- they're not penalized financially? >> no, nothing like that. >> any injuries in the line of duty? >> i've had several tumbles, one incident i was off for two months. i thought i broke my ankle. >> what's the most perilous aspect? dogs or icy stairs? >> in this area there's a lot of dogs, but i would say icy stairs. >> it's one thing to have to work outside in this wintry mist, but it takes a strange and wonderful kind of mutant to actually find it pleasurable like, well, these two gentlemen.

>> do you like the cold in i mean, by you, i mean the quebecois. >> it's -- the frigid cold keeps the riffraff out of the city, for sure. >> fred morin, dave mcmillen, restaurant tour, chef at joe beef, bon vivant, historians of the great white north, princes of hospitality. and what do they like to do for fun when the rivers turn to ice three feet thick, when testicles shrink and most of us scurry for warm and shelter, if you're like most canadians, you go ice fishing. >> because we are confined perhaps to spend so much time indoors, a lot of the families love to do, you know, activities together, like go to the cottage, goes ice fishing, you know, it gets you out of the house. it's very much a family thing. >> like many of their ilk, they

seek one of the temporary towns, drill a hole in the ice, and wait. but these are not normal men. >> is quebec better than the rest of canada? >> obviously. >> c'mon. >> you didn't have to think about that long. >> no. >> wait a minute. are strippers paid hourly here? is that right? it's not a -- >> it's considered an art -- a performance art. >> you consider it a performance art. how does that work? >> you pay for a song, per song. >> and then you can get a dance in the back, when is a private dance. that's $10 a song, $5 a song in public. that's why i go to strip -- because the songs are super-long. >> you know, i go for the king shrimp and lap dance. >> after a suspiciously stunned-looking fish emerges

from the deep, previously -- it is ignored, but fred and dave do things differently. no crudely fried fish and bread crumbs for these large men. look at that. instead, a hearty lunch of french classics, 'companied by many fine wines and liqueurs, as befitting gentlemen of discerns taste who have exhausted themselves in the wild. >> so this is how you live? >> well, more often than not, yes. >> we always have to travel well and eat properly. a natural white wine, white burgundy? >> these are glacier bay oysters. >> as well as a couple boujelois in there as well. >> the funnest part isn't the cutlery.

it's just the spoon is absolutely gorgeous. fred has a wonderful collection of tableware. without getting snobby or elitist, eaten off vintage tableware is one of the great joys of life. >> -- you aspire to run a democratic establishment, yes you are hopeless romantics when it comes to the art of living, right? what the -- sustenance is required. >> holy [ muted ] look at this. >> say a consomme of oxtail, followed perhaps by a chilled lobster a la parisian. >> the art of fine dining is disappears. >> i work super hard as being an excellent dining companion. >> when seeking excellence in a dining companion, what qualities does one look for? >> i turn my phone off. i never put my elbows on the table. >> really? >> come prepared with stories. don't drink too much, don't

become sloppy. come prepared with anecdotes? >> absolutely. >> no elbows on the table? >> no, it's not proper. >> i'm a total failure as a dining companion. what is that? >> what's that, you ask? an iconic of gastronomy? >> look at that sauce. >> the difficult, a boneless wild hare, garnished with thick slaps of foie gras, seared directly on the cabin's wood stove. >> damn, look at that. >> we're in a wooden shack, over three feet of ice, 100 feet of water. >> you are hopeless romantics, gentlemen. oh, look at that. oh! the seared fois is atop a potato puree. >> of course. >> nice.

>> that's wonderful. >> yes, yes, it is. really, is there a billionaire or a desk anywhere on earth who at this precise moment is eating better than us? >> no. no. >> look at that. [ speaking foreign language ] >> cheese. there must be cheese. in this case, a voluptuously reeking epoisses, who some may call overripe, but not us. this is awesome. what do we have here? >> a few cuban. >> wait a minute, you guys have a much more relaxed attitude toward the importation of cuban cigars. chartreuse, of course, and a desert as rare as it gets, a dinosaur long believed extinct. >> this is gateau marjolaine. >> who does this? >> it's one of the painful nostalgic things. >> layers of almond and hazelnut meringue, chocolate buttercream. my god, look at that.

damn, that's good. for these guys, this is normal. this is lunch. >> it's like french playhouse. >> yeah, what do you do? >> we get dressed at the house? >> yeah. the kids too. >> he's a dandy. >> a sunday dandy. last time i did, i did the primrose and linzer torte, and salad a la orange. and -- with a creme fraiche, and a cheese kurd about 15 kinds of cheese. >> how many people are in your family? >> him and his wife, two young boys. >> how old are the kids? >> they're 2 and 4. >> you your wife and a 2-year-old and 4-year-old. >> they don't make it to the end, usually. i have to prema --

>> they don't like pernod? >> i'm thinking, you know, i have to do that. my daughter would totally be into it. we are gathered here today to celebrate the union of tim and laura. it's amazing how appreciative people are when you tell them they could save a lot of money on their car insurance

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once every few decades, maybe every century, a nation will produce a hero.

an escoffiere, a muhammad ali, a dalai lama, a joey marrone, somebody who changes everything about their chosen field, who changes the whole landscape. life after them is never the same. martin pick -- picard is one of those men. ren base, innovator, he is one of the most influential chefs in north america. he is also a proud quebecois, and perhaps he more than everyone else has defined for a new generation what that means. he's an unlikely ambassador for his country and province. maybe not so unlikely. look at him. trapping beaver with local trapper carl. >> no?

>> so the bait is wood? >> yeah, just the bark. >> they eat the bark? >> yeah, yeah, yeah. >> i understand in pioneer days, beaver was the financial engine of canada? empires were built on it. every hat practically in the world was made of a beaver pelt. >> that's why today it's the icon of canada. >> to a lesser extent, the tradition continue das. carl continue toss trap, usually called on by prostenchal officials to trap beaver, and clear away dams of what could be become an overly destructive population. >> hello, my little friend. >> this is a young one. those are the ones we want to eat. >> what would you compare the meat to? is there anything like it. >> that's the thing, there's nothing like it. you know, when you eat beaver, you understand that it's beaver.

>> martin, along with an encyclopedic knowledge of fine wine and an attachment to music of saline deon, is a believer of honoring tradition. if you trap beavers, you should if at all possible, cook them and eat them, not just strip them of their pelts. as incredible as it might seem, you can cook beaver really, really well. beaver tail, on the other hand is not actually beaver at all, rather a quick spoonbread type of thing, which in our kays goes somewhat awry during an inadvertent inferno. ♪ >> the sauce almost looks like chocolate. >> i love it. some people don't put too much blood, but i like when it's very thick. >> wow. it's absolutely delicious. >> yeah, it is.

i wasn't joking. >> it tastes like chicken. no, it doesn't take like chicken at all. >> this is your first time? >> yeah. >> wow. that's something. i think you almost eat everything. >> yeah, at this point, you know, animals see me and like oh -- >> no, no. >> not that guy. there's a joke around here somewhere, but to tell you the truth, the stuff is just too good. it's like 10 below zero in this freakin' town. that generally does not spell a good time for me. a good time for me is more like a palm tree, a beach, a swimming pool, with only cold thing is my beer. but no. these hearty culinaryians of the

north like to frolic in the snow and ice. more accurately they like to obey their imperative to face dental and max i don't facial injury, skating around slapping a disk, trying to drive it in each area olympics direct. i believe they call this sport hockey. this is not in my blood. do you skate? >> yeah, we grew up on rinks like this. >> everyone in quebec, pretty much obligatory? >> yeah. >> hockey rinks pop you will all over the city to risk teeth, groin and limb. right behind fred and dave's restaurant joe beef, a pickup game of chef, cooks and hospitality professionals is under way. some of these guys are kind of long in the tooth to be out there swinging sticks at each other and skating on the ice. this is normal behavior this people do this for fun? >> yeah.

yeah. this is absolutely quebecois, and this one is landlords being indoctrinated hello, young man. >> you want to play? are you good at hockey? are you going to be a goalie or player? >> a player. >> am i going to get a mouth full of puck, by the way? being catered with fred and dave's usual restraint. >> come eat. >> hot cocoa in styrofoam cups? no, try a flintstone hunks of pork belly, bacon, homemade boudin blanc, plus links. oh, yeah, this is a truly heroic chacutrie. >> look at the beautiful link here.

>> this is the single best argument for sharing a border with germany. and, of course, the finest wines known to humanity. >> german wine, sivlaner in pirate bottles. >> sweet. what am i drinking here? >> canadians riesling from prince albert county here, amazing wine. >> there's an allegory here somewhere. i'm reaching for it. something about fred and dave's reckless abandon, coupled with precision and technique, a hockey metaphor, perhaps. the hell with it -- ooh, look, sausages!

montreal to quebec city by rail. 160 miles of wintry vistas s. whip past 9 windowing evocative for some of another time. >> the canadian caviar, sturgeon canadian caviar. >> i'm not sure about dave mcmillen, but in fred morin's perfect world, we would all travel by rail. it would still by the golden age of rail travel. so tell me about the great canadian rail system. >> it's purely emotional. >> really?

>> nothing rational about it. >> conservatively an aficionado. >> nerdism, how -- >> this about as bad as it gets. >> you have other operating manuals? >> yes. >> books, printed ephemera, fred remains an enduring love for the great iron horses. but it's something more than just nostalgia. it's also an precious for a dies art. >> it's like the old cruise ships. you transport your comfort, you know? >> for those halcyon days of cross-country rails, lavish dining cars, luxurious sleeping compartments, a bar car with liveried attendants. >> look at the menus, how people used to eat on the trains. >> with the sweetbreads and fresh peas.

>> very nice pictures in the dining by train book, with the guy holding the turkey and cutting the turkey. you order a drink, it comes from a bottle made out of glass, into a glass made out of the glass, which is cool in our day and age. >> it goes back to service, doesn't it? thank you. >> we are presented with a perfectly serviceable omelette. there may no longer be a smoking lounge, but this does not mean a traveler has to suffer. do you always travel with a truffle. >> i have ton a in-action photograph. people are going to be expecting wait, where is my fist-sized truffle? >> can i get the truffle option, please? >> oh, of course. don't forget the fois. foie. quebec city, one of the oldest european settlements in

north america. samuel des champlain, known as the father of new france, sailed up the st. lawrence and founded the site. when the fighting started with you know who, quebec city was the french stronghold under the bitter end, when the french fell at the plains of abraham. ♪ the french may have lost that one, but some things french have stayed firm, unbowed, resiliently unchanged by trends or history. the continental is the kind of place which i am unreservedly sent mental. >> i hear here with my grandparents here. >> classic, un-ironic cuisine a la parisian, a hips terr-free

zone of classics, such as -- caesar salad, tossed fresh to orlando tableside. beef tartare, prepared tableside as one must. shrimp cocktail not deconstructed, a way jesus wants you to eat them. all served by a dedicated professional culinary school we were taught this, real customers as your final class. we had to do all of that, which inevitably would fly off the fork. i was so bad at it. i would run into trouble and i would be like, i'll be right back, behind the scene. at least once a day one of the students would set themselves or the customers on fire. the sterno would spill, and

there would be this line from the thing down up their leg. no, that doesn't happen here. like i said, professional. >> like a big fireball. >> good. >> the kind who know how to properly prepare these dishes. >> sweet. >> like a goosebump moment. >> yeah. >> for dave, another classic, filet de boeuf. a a classic sauce. and for fred, scampi newberg. when is the last time you saw the word "newberg" on a menu? >> awesome, absolutely awesome. >> for me, that most nobel of dishes, dover sole. this appears to be one of the few servers alive that nose how to take it off the bone, sauce it, and properly serve it. >> thank you very much. >> bon apetit. >> merci.

i love this place. so happy. very comfortable. there's continuity in this world. across town -- ♪ another thing entirely. the younger, wilder l'affaire est ketchup, which i'm reliably informed means everything is cool in local idiom. >> at this point in my life, i just don't know anymore. are these young cooks, servers, dedicated entrepreneurs, are these hips terres? or am i a cranky old -- who anybody believes below 30 is a hipster? i don't know, but i admire them. >> how much did it cost you when you opened?

>> not much. >> look at this tiny electric four-burner stove. at no point in my career could i have worked with one of these without murdering everyone in the vicinity before hanging myself from the nearest beam. >> how how long did it take to adapt? >> three months. at the beginning, i was lucky i didn't have a lot of customers. it was like, oh, man! i was freaking out. >> and yet these kids today, look at them go, serving a wildly ambitious and quite substantial ever-changing menu out of this -- this suzy homemaker often. tonight razor claims, and a cream of haddock roe. very cool. thank you. i love razor clams. and coquilles st. jacques, and truffled sweetbreads, and some goose heart for good measure. >> another goose heart. excellent. >> hearts in general.

>> ooh, also the grilled tomato bread. that's saltcod for you anglos. i'm all swollen up, and ready to burst in a livery omnidirectional mist. hotel motel time for me. ♪ ordinary rubs don't always work on my arthritis.

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it penetrates deep to block pain signals for hours of relief. capzasin-hp. take the pain out of arthritis. ♪ how canadian is quebec? are they truly one entity or two this this is a question that has been wrestled with for some time. quebec is certainly part of canada, but in many ways both culturally spiritually and linguistically, it's very much another thing entirely. there's a lot of history, much of it contentious. go back far enough and you get a clearer picture of why. the french arrived on the shores of quebec city in the early 16th century suck coupled to the military might of great britain in the mid 18th. thus began a gradual but steady

persecution of all things french. the quebecois have struggled mightily, the issue of seceding entirely that persists to some extent today. journalist patrick meets me at m sur masson, to understand what many feel is at stake. so i was going to talk about the whole history of french quebecois, but you have to get to the pressing matter of the day -- pasta-gate. >> what do you want to know? >> for those not up on current quebec politics, pasta-gate refers to an incident where local authorities notified an italian restaurant that they were in violation of french laws, because they used the word "pasta" which is italian. >> this is -- >> okay. stop apologizing, okay? >> don't get me wrong. my last name is i lean hard.

i'm normally sympathetic to the language laws. >> you don't think it's preposterous? >> i don't think think it is -- >> it's stupid, i agree with you completely this province 40 years ago was in some respects an english city, so we needed language laws for signage and stuff. >> signage, for instance, must by law be principally in french. french first in all things. >> but ever bureaucracy produces stupidity, and it will not assistant. >> they treated them like second-class crap for much of history. i get it. i would want my own thing and when i got it, i would want to make sure there's no back sliding. >> when the first sovereignist party to be elected in 1976, it didn't come out of a vacuum. it came from a couple decades of awakening and struggle.

>> will people city speaking french in montreal? >> yes. >> no doubt about it. >> no doubt about it. >> french first is something most would agree with. how far and how rigorously you want to go with that? well -- >> do you think there was ever any possibility or real majority or plurality of quebecois that would have voted in separate nation status? >> in english, you guys say timing is everything. timing was never better in the period 1990, '91, '92. in '95 this country came inches one being broken up. >> do you think it will ever happen? >> i don't know, but i know one thing, everyone who says separatism is dead in this country and this province is a fool. >> no matter how you feel about quebec as either separate from or as an essentially part of

greater canada, any reasonable person loves this place. >> correct me if i'm wrong, we wilensky's is famous -- >> it was a survival thing. it was because they were poor. that's what they could make. >> wilensky's, an old-school corner institution around since 1932, serving up best beef baloney, and salami specials, along with egg creams and milkshakes. so the special, and an appropriate beverage. very happy. >> here's how it goes. there are rules. the special is always served with mustard. it is never cut in two. don't ask why, just because. that's the way it's always been done. a little respect for tradition, please.

>> i'm happy now. you know? some things are beloved institutions for a reason. this is delicious. thank you. [ jake ] you never know where summer will take you. but the sun's always a little brighter with leinenkugel's summer shandy. it's crisp, refreshing beer, brewed with the natural flavor of lemonade that's inspired by a classic german style and perfect for summers out here, here and especially here. our family's been brewing in chippewa falls for six generations. we craft lots of great beers but this one says summer. i'm jake and we're the leinenkugels. grab a summer shandy and join us out here.

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♪ the tradition of the cabane

a sucre au pied de cochon or sugar shack is as old as quebec, for 70% of the world's supply comes from here. deeply embedded in the maple syrup outdoor lumberjack lifestyle is the cabin in the woods, where maple sap is collected and boiled down to syrup. over time, many of these cabins became informal eating houses, dining has for workers and a few guests, where a lucky few could sit at communal tables and enjoy the bounty of the trees and forests around them. martin picard has taken this tradition to somehow both its logical conclusion and insane extreme, creating his own cabane a sucre au pied de cochon, serving food stemming directly from the humble yet hearty roots. it makes perfect sense in one way, 130 acres produce about

32,000 gallons of maple sap, which run thus these tubes to here where they're cooked down to about 800 gallons of syrup, which is more or less what they use here. nothing leaves the proper. and it makes sense, while you're here to raise hogs, and cattle on the property. maybe keep a cabin or two around for any friends who get too loaded to sleep it off. but this? this? there valely any reason for this? what are you doing here? why do you have to make life so hard? if money were your primary motivation -- >> no. >> -- this doesn't seem like the fasters road to untold wealth. >> my friend's father had a sugar shack. everybody did. you can go back three generations, they had a sugar shack. i'm very proud of quebec. i'm very proud of canada, you know?

>> you celebrate canadians history, canadians traditions, canadians ingredients in a way that no one else has. are you some kind of patriot? is that what's going on here? is it national quebecois fervor? >> i say it's one of the most important restaurants for me. >> it's an artist installation in a way, if you look at it. >> the meal begins -- begins with a tower of maple desserts. good lord. sponge maple toffee, maple doughnuts, beaver tails, maple cots top candy, but wait, almond croissants, whip-it bisques, in nougat. there we go. i think that's a first for me. i've never seen that done. >> no? >> not with a hammer. let the madness begin.

next, a whole lobe of foie gras with baked beans on a pancake cooked in duck fast, of course, cottage cheese and eggs cooked in maple syrup. wow, that's awesome. there's a healthy salad, sauteed duck hearts, giffords, and pig's ear, topped with a heaping pile of pork rinses. >> good lord. and a calf brain and maple bacon omelette. and these. >> how is this made? >> with love. >> spanko-encrusted duck drumsticks. >> good lord. wow. >> this is a classic quebec dish, called -- a meat pie. >> a lord cheese, calf brain, sweetbreads, bacon and arugula, but with martin, that's not sufficient. >> usually there's a little

truffle. >> yes, black truffles. >> more truffle. >> not too much truffle. >> my blood is getting thicker as i look at that. >> now the main course, a home this is their is there really any reason for this? what are you doing here? why do you have to make life so hard? if money were your primary motivation. >> no.

>> mmm. >> no, no, no, no. take a big one, and you have to suck it. don't swallow it, you know. look, you have to go like that, slowly, slowly, no? >> slowly, slowly. that's how it's good. that's it. trying to do that in a manly way? don't look down at it. look away in a distracted way. >> the best way is to look up. >> finally there's maple meringue cake and maple ice cream with chocolate shards. any suggestion how to attack this? >> we did it once. i wonder what the chef suggests for the ice cream cone. chef suggests you eat it like

this. >> i think there's too much toffee thing on the food. like while this is very intellectual and blah, blah, blah, i've done too much all i don't want to do that. i don't want to play games anymore. >> because food is feces in waiting. >> this is cnn. girl vo: i'm pretty conservative. very logical thinker. (laughs) i'm telling you right now, the girl back at home would absolutely not have taken a zip line in the jungle. (screams) i'm really glad that girl stayed at home. vo: expedia helps 30 million travelers a month find what they're looking for.

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♪ this is one thing you always need on a cold snowy night. it's yet another hearty meal. i meet back up with fred and dave at liverpool house, the sister restaurant to joe beef. >> i think we always compensate a little bit with overabundance of food because of our insecurity of not being like good cooks. >> you know what, it's a combination of low self-esteem and generosity that explains the amount of food perhaps. >> first course. look at that. unbelievable. look at the work.

>> this is smoked veal and potatoes inside. salmon pastrami. >> wait a minute, this is super classic. >> and this, egg and asnic, soft and poached egg in clear gelatin and set broth classically garnished with white ham, tarragon leaves and black truffles. >> oh, my gosh. thought i'd live the rest of my life without ever seeing this begin. delicious. but tonight after a full week of franco-canadian full on assaults on our livers and our lights, fred and dave's sauce would be both delicious and merciful to take advantage of the somewhat lighter and familiar fare from their friend from pakistan, amazing authentic pakistani food. what do we have here? >> butter chicken crab, a little eggplant grazed with pomegranate, a little mushrooms, fingerlings with fennel. >> yes.

he did say donkey meat. the dishes continue, a sesame seed and all beef scotched egg, horse meat tartar and this authentic goat dish. wow. >> are you full? >> food for 12. >> we did good work here. >> in the end, perhaps a nod to the angelo tradition there will be stilt. it's a genius meal. these princess of gastronomy never a suboptimal moment, nothing short of excellence accepted. beyond excellent. too much excellent, yes,

possibly. over the top? yeah, definitely. it all comes around in the end, the circle of life. we begin at the beginning. the heart and soul of every right thinking quebecois apparently. >> fred and dave and martin are joined by the original god of gastronomy, the original chef to watch their beloved canadiens lay waste to the carolina hurricanes. all the while eating, of course, and drinking as it turns out the finest wine known to humanity. and here we go. whoa.

it was a shocking trial, revealing details of stabbing, stalking and secrets. now five years after jodi arias killed her boyfriend, after months of riveting testimony, her freedom is in the jury's hands, and maybe her life. tonight, you be the jury. watch the testimony and weigh the evidence yourself. we want to warn you, it is graphic, both the images and the language, and may be too explicit for younger viewers. reporting for us tonight, "ac 360's" randi kaye. >> reporter: a sorted story of sex, lies -- >> i'm not guil.