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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  May 12, 2013 1:00am-2:01am PDT

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the defense may offer its own witnesses and ask the jury to stay jodi's life. stay tuned for the latest developments. i'm randi kaye. thanks for watching. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com [ speaking foreign language ] ♪ ♪ i took a walk ♪ through this beautiful world ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪
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♪ in a beautiful world ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ it takes a special breed to live in a province like quebec. it gets cold in winter, and winters are long. it takes a special kind of person for whom frozen rivers,
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icy, wind-whipped streets, deep, seemingly endless forests are the norm. i will confess my partisanship up front. i love montreal. it is my favorite place in canada. the people who live there are tough, crazy bastards, and i admire them for it. toronto, vancouver, i love you, but not like montreal. why? i shall explain. all will be revealed. in the meantime, check this guy out. what's the post office's motto? neither rain nor sleet nor driving snow nor plague of locusts prevent the mail carrier from delivering my junk mail? here in montreal, the simple task of delivers the mail in winter comes with its own set of hurdles. icy hurdles. i've got to ask, do you have special equipment for this?
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>> we have slip-on boots. we do have our boots in the rain -- sorry, when it gets icy, with spikes on them. and then give us also slip-on spikes for when it's icy. >> any sort of city ordinance that you have to shovel or -- they're not penalized financially? >> no, nothing like that. >> any injuries in the line of duty? >> i've had several tumbles, one incident i was off for two months. i thought i broke my ankle. >> what's the most perilous aspect of the job? would it be dogs or icy stairs? >> in this area there's a lot of dogs, but i would say icy stairs. >> it's one thing to have to work outside in this wintry mess, but it takes a strange and wonderful kind of mutant to actually find it pleasurable
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like, well, these two gentlemen. >> do you like the cold? i mean, by you, i mean, the quebecois. >> it's -- the frigid cold keeps the riffraff out of the city, for sure. >> fred morin, dave mcmillen, restauranteur, chefs another the legendary joe beef, bon vivant, historians of the great white north, princes of hospitality. and what do they like to do for fun when the rivers turn to ice three feet thick, when testicles shrink and most of us scurry for warmth and shelter? if they were like so many other canadians, they would go ice fishing on the st. laurence river. >> because we are confined perhaps to spend so much time indoors, a lot of the families love to do, you know, activities together, like go to the cottage, go ice fishing, you know, it gets you out of the house. it's very much a family thing.
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>> like many of their ilk, they seek one of the temporary towns, of sled-born cabins, drill a hole in the ice and wait. but these are not normal men. is quebec better than the rest of canada? >> obviously. >> come on. you didn't have to think about that long. >> no. >> wait a minute. are strippers paid hourly here? is that right? it's not a -- >> it's considered an art -- a performance art. >> you consider it a performance art. how does that work? >> you pay per song, per song. >> and then you can get a dance in the back, when is a private dance. that's $10 a song, $5 a song in public. that's why i go to certain strip bars because they're song are super long. and i'm cheap. i go for the king shrimp and lap dance. >> after a suspiciously stunned-looking fish emerges from the deep, it is ignored
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because fred and dave do things differently. no crudely fried fish and breadcrumbs for these large men. look at that. instead, a hearty lunch of french classics, accompanied by many fine wines and liqueurs, as befitting gentlemen of discerns taste who have exhausted themselves in the wild. so this is how you live? >> well, more often than not, yes. >> we always have to travel well and eat properly. we're drinking a natural white wine, white burgundy. these are glacier bay oysters, as well as a couple boujelois in there as well. >> the funnest part isn't the cutlery. it's just the spoon is absolutely gorgeous. fred has a wonderful collection of tableware. without getting snobby or elitist, eating off vintage tableware is one of the great
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joys of life. >> this is the interesting paradox of you guys. on one hand, you aspire to run a democratic establishment, yet you are hopeless romantics when it comes to the art of living, right? what the -- sustenance is required. >> holy [ muted ] look at this. like, say a consomme of oxtail to begin, followed perhaps by a chilled lobster on a la parisian >> the art of fine dining is disappears. >> i work super hard at being an excellent dining companion. >> when seeking excellence in a dining companion, what qualities does one look for? >> i turn my phone off. i never put my elbows on the table. >> really? >> come prepared with stories. don't drink too much, don't become sloppy. come prepared with anecdotes? >> absolutely. >> no elbows on the table?
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>> no, it's not proper. >> i'm a total failure as a dining companion. what is that? >> what's that, you ask? an iconic of gastronomy? >> look at that sauce. the devilishly difficult dish, a boneless wild hare in a sauce of its own blood, garnished with thick slabs of foie gras, seared directly on the top of the cabin's wood stove. damn, look at that. >> we're in a wooden shack, over three feet of ice, 100 feet of water. >> you are hopeless romantics, gentlemen. oh, look at that. oh! the seared fois is atop a potato puree. of course. >> nice.
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>> that's wonderful. >> yes, yes, it is. really, is there a billionaire or a desk anywhere on earth who at this precise moment is eating better than us? >> no. no. >> look at that. [ speaking foreign language ] >> cheese. there must be cheese. in this case, a voluptuously reeking epoisses, who some may call overripe, but not us. this is awesome. what do we have here? >> a few cuban. >> wait a minute, you guys have a much more relaxed attitude toward the importation of cuban cigars. chartreuse, of course, and a dessert as rare as it gets, a dinosaur long believed extinct. >> this is gateau marjolaine. >> who does this? >> it's one of the painful nostalgic things.
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>> layers of almond and hazelnut meringue, chocolate buttercream. my god, look at that. damn, that's good. for these guys, this is normal. this is lunch. >> some days it's like french playhouse in my house. >> yeah, what do you do? >> we get dressed at the house? >> yeah. the kids too. >> he's a dandy. >> a sunday dandy. last time i did, i did the primrose and linzer torte, and salad a la orange. and a huge cheese cart with about 15 kinds of cheese. >> how many people are in your family? >> him and his wife, two young boys. >> how old are the kids? >> they're 2 and 4. >> you your wife and a 2-year-old and 4-year-old. >> they don't make it to the end, usually. i have to prematurely open -- >> they don't like pernod? >> i'm thinking, you know, i
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have to do that. my daughter would totally be into it. it's the most powerful thing on the planet. love holds us in the beginning. comforts us as we grow old. love is the reason you care. for all the things in your life... that make life worth living. ♪ ♪ sweet love of mine has oats that can help lower cholesterol? and it tastes good? sure does! wow. it's the honey, it makes it taste so... well, would you look at the time... what's the rush? be happy. be healthy.
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once every few decades, maybe every century, a nation will produce a hero. an escoffiere, a muhammad ali, a dalai lama, joey ramon. somebody who changes everything about their chosen field, who changes the whole landscape. life after them is never the same.
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martin picard is such a man. a hybrid of outdoorsman, innovator, he is one of the most influential chefs in north america. he is also a proud quebecois, and perhaps he more than anyone else has defined for a new generation of americans and canadians what that means. he's an unlikely ambassador for his country and province. maybe not so unlikely. look at him. out for a day trapping beaver with local trapper carl. >> no? >> so the bait is wood? >> yeah, they just eat the bark. >> they eat the bark? >> yeah, yeah, yeah. >> i understand in pioneer days, beaver was the financial engine of canada? empires were built on it. every hat practically in the
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world was made of a beaver pelt. >> that's why today it's the icon of canada. >> to a lesser extent, the tradition continues today. carl continues to trap, usually called on by provincial officials to trap beaver, and clear away dams of what could be become an overly destructive population. >> hello, my little friend. >> this is a young one. those are the ones we want to eat. >> what would you compare the meat to? is there anything like it? >> that's the thing, there's nothing like it. you know, when you eat beaver, you understand that it's beaver. >> martin, along with an encyclopedic knowledge of fine wines and an inexplicable attachment to the music of celine dion, is a believer of honoring tradition. if you trap beavers, you should if at all possible, cook them and eat them, not just strip
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them of their pelts. as incredible as it might seem, you can cook beaver really, really well. beaver tail, on the other hand is not actually beaver at all, rather a quick spoonbread type of thing that in our case goes somewhat awry during an inadvertent inferno. ♪ >> the sauce almost looks like chocolate. it's so rich looking. >> i love it. some people don't put too much blood, but i like when it's very thick. >> wow. it's absolutely delicious. >> yeah, it is. i wasn't joking. >> it tastes like chicken. no, it doesn't take like chicken at all. >> this is your first time? >> yeah. >> wow. that's something. i think you almost eat everything. >> yeah, at this point, you know, animals see me and like oh
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-- >> no, no. >> not that guy. there's a joke around here somewhere, but to tell you the truth, the stuff is just too good. it's like ten below zero in this freaking town. that generally does not spell a good time for me. a good time for me is more like a palm tree, a beach, a swimming pool, with only cold thing is my beer. but no. these hearty culinaryians of the north like to frolic in the snow and ice. more accurately they like to obey their imperative to face dental and max yal facial injury, skating around slapping a disk, trying to drive it in each area olympics direct. i believe they call this sport hockey. this is not in my blood.
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do you skate? >> yeah, we grew up on rinks like this. >> everyone in quebec, pretty much obligatory? >> yeah. there's no reason to live here if there's no hockey. >> hockey rinks pop you will all over the city to risk teeth, groin and limb. right behind fred and dave's restaurant, joe beef, a pick-up game of chef, cooks and hospitality professionals is under way. some of these guys put a chair out there are long in the tooth to be out there swinging sticks at each other and skating on the ice. this is normal behavior this people do this for fun? >> yeah. yeah. this is absolutely quebecois, and this one is landlords being indoctrinated hello, young man. >> you want to play? are you good at hockey? are you going to be a goalie or player? >> a player. >> am i going to get a mouth
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full of puck, by the way? being catered with fred and dave's usual restraint. >> come eat. >> hot cocoa in styrofoam cups? no, try a titanic dish containing flintstone size hunks of pork belly, bacon, homemade boudin blanc, plus links. oh, yeah, this is a truly heroic chacutrie. >> look at the beautiful link here. >> this is the single best argument for sharing a border with germany. and, of course, the finest wines known to humanity. >> german wine, silvanor in
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pirate bottles. >> sweet. what am i drinking here? >> canadians riesling from prince albert county here, amazing wine. >> there's an allegory here somewhere. i'm reaching for it. something about fred and dave's reckless abandon, coupled with precision and technique, a hockey metaphor, perhaps. the hell with it -- ooh, look, sausages! [ lane ] do you ever feel like you're growing old waiting for your wrinkle cream to work? clinically proven neutrogena® rapid wrinkle repair. it targets fine lines and wrinkles
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it's just common sense. ok, well, remember last week when you hit vinny in the head with a shovel? [chuckling] i do not recall that. of course not. well, it was too graphic for the kids, so i'm going to have to block you. you know, i got to make this up to you. this is vinny's watch.
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montreal to quebec city by rail. 160 miles of wintry vistas whip past the windows evocative for some of another time >> the canadian caviar, sturgeon canadian caviar. >> i'm not sure about dave mcmillen, but in fred morin's perfect world, we would all travel by rail. it would still be the golden age of rail travel. so tell me about the great canadian rail system. >> it's purely emotional. >> really? >> nothing rational about it. >> fred is what one might call conservatively an aficionado. >> this about as bad as it gets.
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operating manual -- for this model. so you have other operating manuals? >> yes. >> books, printed ephemera, fred retains an enduring love for the great iron horses in a place he calls home. but it's something more than just nostalgia. it's also an appreciation for a dying art. >> it's like the old cruise ships. you transport your comfort, you know? >> for those halcyon days of cross-country rails, lavish dining cars, luxurious sleeping compartments, a bar car with liveried attendants. >> look at the menus, how people used to eat on the trains. that's inspiration to how we cook in the restaurant. >> with the sweetbreads and fresh peas. >> very nice pictures in the
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dining by train book, with the guy holding the turkey and cutting the turkey. you order a drink, it comes from a bottle made out of glass, into a glass made out of the glass, which is cool in our day and age. >> it goes back to service, doesn't it? thank you. >> we are presented with a perfectly serviceable omelette. there may no longer be a smoking lounge, but this does not mean a traveler has to suffer. do you always travel with a truffle schafer? people are going to be expecting wait, where is my fist-sized truffle? >> can i get the truffle option, please? >> oh, of course. don't forget the foie. quebec city, one of the oldest european settlements in north america. samuel des champlain, known as the father of new france, sailed
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up the st. lawrence and founded the site. when the fighting started with you know who, quebec city was the french strond stronghole until the bitter end, when the french fell at the plains of abraham. ♪ the french may have lost that one, but some things french have stayed firm, unbowed, resiliently unchanged by trends or history. the continental is the kind of place about which i am unreservedly sentimental. >> classic, un-ironic cuisine a la parisian, dishes you haven't
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seen like forever. a hipster-free zone of oceanliner classics, such as caesar salad, tossed fresh tableside. beef tartare, prepared tableside as one must. shrimp cocktail not deconstructed, a way jesus wants you to eat them. all served by a dedicated professional. in culinary school, we were taught this, real customers as your final class. we had to do all of that, which inevitably would fly off the fork and land in somebody's soup. i was so bad at it. i would run into trouble and i would be like, i'll be right back, behind the scene. at least once a day one of the students would set themselves or the customers on fire. the sterno would spill, and there would be this line from the thing down up their leg. no, that doesn't happen here.
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like i said, professional. >> like a big fireball. >> good. >> the kind who know how to properly prepare these dishes. >> sweet. >> like a goosebump moment. >> yeah. >> for dave, another classic, filet de boeuf. a sauce made of cognac and cream. and for fred, scampi newberg. when is the last time you saw the word "newberg" on a menu? awesome, absolutely awesome. but for me, that most noble of dishes, dover sole. this appears to be one of the few servers alive that knows how to take it off the bone, sauce it, and properly serve it. >> thank you very much. >> bon appetit. >> merci. i love this place.
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so happy. very comfortable. there's continuity in this world. across town -- ♪ another thing entirely. the younger, wilder l'affaire est ketchup, which i'm reliably informed means everything is cool in local idiom. at this point in my life, i just don't know anymore. are these young cooks, servers, dedicated entrepreneurs, are they hipsters? or am i a cranky old -- who thinks anybody below the age of 30 is a hipster? i don't know, but i admire them. >> how much did it cost you when you opened? >> not much. >> look at this tiny electric four-burner stove. at no point in my career could i have worked with one of these
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without murdering everyone in the vicinity before hanging myself from the nearest beam. >> how how long did it take to adapt? >> three months. at the beginning, i was lucky i didn't have a lot of customers. it was like, oh, man! i was freaking out. >> and yet these kids today, look at them go, serving a wildly ambitious and quite substantial ever-changing menu out of this suzy homemaker oven. tonight, razor clams and a cream of haddock roe. very cool. thank you. i love razor clams. and coquilles st. jacques, and truffled sweetbreads, and some goose heart for good measure. >> another goose heart.
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excellent. >> hearts in general. >> ooh, also the grilled tomato bread. that's saltcod for you anglos. i'm all swollen up, and ready to burst in a livery omnidirectional mist. hotel motel time for me. ♪ hi i'm terry, and i have diabetic nerve pain. it's hard to describe because you have a numbness but yet you have the pain like thousands of needles sticking in your foot. it was progressively getting worse, and at that point, i knew i had to do something. once i started taking the lyrica, the pain started subsiding. [ male announcer ] it's known that diabetes damages nerves.
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how canadian is quebec? are they truly one entity or two? this is a question that has been wrestled with for some time. quebec is certainly part of canada, but in many ways both culturally, spiritually and linguistically, it's very much another thing entirely. there's a lot of history, much of it contentious. go back far enough and you get a clearer picture of why. the french arrived on the shores of quebec city in the early 16th century but succumbed to the military might of great britain in the mid 18th. thus began a gradual but steady persecution of all things french. the quebecois have struggled mightily to hang onto their
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french heritage and language, the issue of seceding entirely that persists even to some extent today. journalist patrick meets me at this restaurant to understand what many feel is at stake. so i was going to talk about the whole history of french quebecois, but you have to get to the pressing matter of the day -- pasta-gate. >> what do you want to know? >> for those not up on current quebec politics, pasta-gate refers to an incident where local authorities notified an italian restaurant that they were in violation of french laws, because they used the word "pasta" which is italian. >> this is -- >> okay. stop apologizing, okay? >> don't get me wrong. my last name is bourdain. i lean hard. i'm normally sympathetic to the language laws.
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>> you don't think it's preposterous? >> i don't think think it is -- but i hear we have a situation -- >> it's stupid, i agree with you completely that this province 40 years ago was in some respects an english city, so we needed to have language laws for signage and stuff. >> signage, for instance, must by law be principally in french. french first in all things. >> but ever bureaucracy produces by-products of stupidity and that was it. and it will not stand. >> the anglo-canadians treated the french like second-class crap for much of history. i get it. i would want my own thing and when i got it, i would want to make sure there's no backsliding. >> when the first sovereignist party to be elected in 1976, it didn't come out of a vacuum. it came from a couple decades of awakening and struggle. >> 50 years from now, will people still be speaking french in montreal?
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>> yes. >> no doubt about it. >> no doubt about it. >> french first is something most would agree with. how far and how rigorously you want to go with that? well -- >> do you think there was ever any possibility or real majority or plurality of quebecois that would have voted in separate nation status? >> in english, you guys say timing is everything. >> right. >> and timing was never better in the period 1990, '91, '92. in '95 this country came inches from being broken up. >> do you think it will ever happen in the history of the world? >> i don't know, but i know one thing, anybody who says separatism is dead in this country and this province is a fool. >> no matter how you feel about quebec as either separate from or as essential part of greater canada, any reasonable person loves this place. correct me if i'm wrong,
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wilenski is famous for -- >> it was a survival thing. it was because they were poor. that's what they could make. >> wilensky's, an old-school corner institution around since 1932, serving up pressed beef baloney, and salami specials, along with egg creams and milkshakes. so the special, and an appropriate beverage. very happy. here's how it goes. there are rules. the special is always served with mustard. it is never cut in two. don't ask why, just because. that's the way it's always been done. a little respect for tradition, please. i'm happy now. you know? some things are beloved institutions for a reason.
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this is delicious. thank you. ♪ [ female announcer ] love. it's the most powerful thing on the planet. love holds us in the beginning. comforts us as we grow old. love is the reason you care. for all the things in your life... that make life worth living. ♪ ♪ sweet love of mine to get our adt security system. and one really big reason -- the house next door. our neighbor's house was broken into. luckily, her family wasn't there,
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the tradition of the cabane a sucre au pied de cochon or sugar shack is as old as quebec,
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for 70% of the world's supply comes from here. deeply embedded in the maple syrup outdoor lumberjack lifestyle is the cabin in the woods, where maple sap is collected and boiled down to syrup. over time, many of these cabins became informal eating houses, dining halls for workers and a few guests where a lucky few could sit at communal tables and enjoy the bounty of the trees and forests around them. martin picard has taken this tradition to somehow both its logical conclusion and insane extreme, creating his own cabane a sucre, serving food stemming directly from the humble yet hearty roots. it makes perfect sense in one way, 130 acres produce about 32,000 gallons of maple sap, which run thus these tubes to here where they're cooked down
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to about 800 gallons of syrup, which is more or less what they use here. nothing leaves the property. and it makes sense, while you're here to raise hogs, and cattle on the property. maybe keep a cabin or two around for any friends who get too loaded to sleep it off. but this? this? is there really any reason for this? what are you doing here? why do you have to make life so hard? if money were your primary motivation -- >> no. >> -- this doesn't seem like the fastest road to untold wealth. >> my friend's father had a sugar shack. everybody did. you can go back three generations, they had a sugar shack.
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i'm very proud of quebec. i'm very proud of canada, you know? >> you celebrate canadian history, canadian traditions, canadian ingredients in a way that no one else has. are you some kind of patriot? is that what's going on here? is it national quebecois fervor? >> very much a patriot. >> i say it's one of the most important restaurants for me. >> it's an artist installation in a way, if you look at it. >> the meal begins -- begins with a tower of maple desserts. good lord. sponge maple toffee, maple doughnuts, beaver tails, maple cotton candy. but wait, there's more. almond croissants, whip-it biscuits in nougat. there we go. i think that's a first for me. i've never seen that done. >> no? >> not with a hammer. let the madness begin. next, a whole lobe of foie gras with baked beans on a pancake cooked in duck fat, of course,
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cottage cheese and eggs cooked in maple syrup. wow, that's awesome. there's a healthy salad, sauteed duck hearts, gizzards and pig's ear, topped with a heaping pile of pork rines. >> good lord. and a calf brain and maple bacon omelette. and these. >> how is this made? >> with love. >> spanko-encrusted duck drumsticks. and maple leafs barbecue sauce. good lord. wow. >> this is a classic quebec dish, it's a meat pie. >> a whole lot of cheese, foie gras, calf brain, sweetbreads, bacon and arugula. but with martin, that's not sufficient. >> usually there's a little truffle. >> yes, black truffles. >> more truffle. >> not too much truffle. >> my blood is getting thicker as i look at that.
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>> now the main course, a home grown smoked right out front local ham with pineapple and green beans. and chicken but with martin, a chicken is never just chicken. >> that's stuffed with foie gras and lobster. we pump lobster bisque into the chicken. >> good lord. there is a light at the end of the tunnel. someone should be singing the national anthem now, really. and practicically prehistoric old-school canadian classic, maple syrup is heated, then poured on snow, becoming a kind of taffy. but the preferred delivery mechanism does present some issues. >> no, no, no.
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take a big one. you have to suck it. don't swallow it. you have to go like that. slowly, slowly. that's how it's good. that's it. >> can i do that in a manly way? you just have to look away, in a distracted way. >> the best way is to look up. >> finally, there's maple leafs meringue cake. any suggestion? >> eat the ice cream like that. >> that's the thing. i think there's too much focusing on the food. like, wow, this is very intellectual and blah, blah, blah.
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i've done too much all that stuff. i don't want to do that. i don't want to play games anymore. >> food is feces in waiting. >> this is cnn. and do you know your... blood type? a or b positive?? have you eaten today? i had some lebanese food for lunch. i love the lebanese. i... i'm not sure. enough of the formalities... lets get started shall we? jimmy how happy are folks who save hundreds of dollars switching to geico? happier than dracula volunteering at a blood drive.
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if there's one thing you always need on a cold snowy night, it's yet another hearty meal. i meet back up with fred and dave at liverpool house, the sister restaurant to joe beef. >> i think we always compensate a little bit with overabundance of food because of our insecurity of not being like good cooks. >> you know what, it's a combination of low self-esteem and generosity that explains the amount of food perhaps. >> first course. look at that. unbelievable.
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look at the aspect work. >> this is smoked veal and potatoes inside. salmon pastrami. >> wait a minute, this is super classic. >> and this, egg and aspic, soft and poached egg in clear gelatin and set broth classically garnished with white ham, tarragon leaves and black truffles. oh, my gosh. i was pretty sure i'd live the rest of my life without ever seeing this again. delicious. but tonight after a full week of franco-canadian full-on assaults on our livers and our lights, fred and dave's thought would be both delicious and merciful to take advantage of the somewhat lighter and familiar fare from their friend from pakistan, amazing authentic pakistani food. what do we have here? >> butter chicken crab, a little eggplant braised with pomegranate, a little mushrooms,
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fingerlings with fennel. >> yes. he did say donkey meat. something wrong with that? the dishes continue, a sesame seed and green pepper curry, hangar steak, all beef scotched egg, a horse meat with tartare and authentic goat. wow. >> are you full? >> food for 12. >> we did good work here. >> in the end, perhaps a nod to the anglo tradition, there will be stilt. it's a genius meal. these princes of gastronomy never a suboptimal moment, nothing short of excellence accepted. beyond excellent. too much excellent, yes, possibly.
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over the top? yeah, definitely. it all comes around in the end, the circle of life. we begin at the beginning. the heart and soul of every right thinking quebecois apparently. ice, a stick and a puck. fred and dave and martin picard are joined by the original god of montreal gastronomy, the great chef to watch their beloved canadiens lay waste to the carolina hurricanes. all the while eating, of course, and drinking as it turns out the finest wines known to humanity. and here we go.
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whoa. welcome to a special edition of 360, "vanished." we've all watched the incredible discovery of three missing women in cleveland, and the investigation into exactly what happened to them continues. as you know, kidnapping and rape charges have been filed against 52-year-old ariel castro. authorities say dna tests confirm he is the father of amanda berry's 6-year-old daughter, who police believe was born in captivity. the prosecutor says that castro ran a torture chamber. those were his words. and private prison. investigators have removed more than 200 items from his home as they are trying to piece together how he allegedly held the women captive for so long. the three women, amanda berry, gina dejesus, and michelle knight, continue to recover. their return in cleveland after so many years has given hope to thousands of o

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