thanks for joining us. ♪ ♪ i took a walk ♪ through this beautiful world ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪

♪ something good ♪ in a beautiful world ♪ i felt the rain getting cold er ♪ ♪ it takes a special breed to live in a province like quebec. it gets cold in winter, and winters are long form. it takes a special kind of

person for whom frozen rivers, icy wind-whipped streets, deep seemingly endless forests are the norm. i will confess my partisanship up front. i love montreal. it is my favorite place in canada. the people who live there are tough, crazy bastards, and i admire them for it. toronto, vancouver, i love you, but not like montreal. why? i shall explain. all will be revealed. in the meantime, check this guy out. what's the post office's motto? neither rain nor sleet nor driving snow nor plague of lock u.s.s prevent the mail carrier from delivering my jung mail? >> here in montreal, the simple task of delivers the mail in winter comes with its own set of hurdles. icy hurdles. >> i got to ask, do you have special equipment for this?

>> we've got slip-on boots. we do have our boots in the rain -- sorry, when it gets icy, with spikes on them. and then give us also slip-on spikes for when it's icy. >> any sort of city ordinance that you have to shovel or -- they're not penalized financially? >> no, nothing like that. >> any injuries in the line of duty? >> i've had several tumbles, one incident i was off for two months. i thought i broke my ankle. >> what's the most perilous aspect of the job? would it be dogs or icy stairs? >> in this area there's a lot of dogs, but i would say icy stairs. >> it's one thing to have to work outside in this wintry mess, but it takes a strange and wonderful kind of mutant to actually find it pleasurable like, well, these two gentlemen. >> do you like the cold?

i mean, by you, i mean the quebecois. >> it cleans the streets of ebola. >> the cold? >> yeah, the frigid cold keeps the riffraff out of the city, for sure. >> fred morin, dave mcmillen, restauranteur, chefs at the legendary joe beef, bon vivant, historians of their beloved great white north, princes of hospitality. and what do they like to do for fun when the rivers turn to ice three feet thick, when testicles shrink and most of us scurry for warmth and shelter? if they were like so many other canadians, they would go ice fishing on the st. lawrence river. >> because we are confined perhaps to spend so much time indoors, a lot of the families love to do, you know, activities together, like go to the cottage, goes ice fishing, you know, it gets you out of the house. it's very much a family thing.

>> like many of their ilk, they seek one of the temporary towns, of sled-borne cabins, drill a hole in the ice, and wait. but these are not normal men. >> is quebec better than the rest of canada? >> obviously. >> it's not that, but yeah, sure. common, you didn't have to thing about it that long. >> no. >> wait a minute. are strippers paid hourly here? is that right? it's not a -- >> it's considered an art -- a performance art. >> you consider it a performance art. how does that work? >> you pay for a song, per song. >> and then you can get a dance in the back, which is a private dance. that's $10 a song, $5 a song in public. that's why i go to strip -- because the songs are super-long. i'm a bit cheap. i go for the cheap drinks and the lap dance. >> after a suspiciously stunned-looking fish emerges

from the deep, previously -- it is ignored, but fred and dave do things differently. no crudely fried fish and bread crumbs for these large men. living 19th century men. >> oh, whoa. holy -- look at that. instead, a hearty lunch of french classics, accompanied by many fine wines and liqueurs, as befitting gentlemen of discerning taste who have exhausted themselves in the wild. >> so this is how you live? >> well, more often than not, yes. >> we always have to travel well and eat properly. we're drinking a natural white wine, white burgundy? >> these are glacier bay oysters. >> as well as a couple boujelois in there as well. >> they're delicious. those are my prized possession. >> the funnest part isn't the isn't it just the cutlery? it's just the spoon is absolutely gorgeous. fred has a wonderful collection of tableware. without getting snobby or

elitist, the eating off of vintage tableware is one of the great joys of life. >> this is the interesting paradox of you guys. on the one hand, you aspire to run a democratic establishment, yes yet you are hopeless romantics -- >> painful nostalgics. >> -- when it comes to the art of living, right? what the -- sustenance is required. >> holy [ muted ] look at this. >> say a consomme of oxtail, followed perhaps by a chilled lobster a la parisian. >> the art of fine dining is disappearing, much to our chagrin. >> i work super hard as being an excellent dining companion. >> when seeking excellence in a dining companion, what qualities does one look for? >> i turn my phone off. i never put my elbows on the table. >> really? >> of course. >> come prepared with stories. don't drink too much, don't become sloppy. >> come prepared with anecdotes? >> absolutely.

>> no elbows on the table? >> no, it's not proper. >> i'm a total failure as a dining companion. what is that? >> what's that, you ask? an iconic of gastronomy? >> look at that sauce. holy crap. >> the devilishly difficult dish, a boneless wild hare, garnished with thick slaps of foie gras, seared directly on the cabin's wood stove. >> damn, look at that. >> we're in a wooden shack, over three feet of ice, 100 feet of water. >> you are hopeless romantics, gentlemen. oh, jesus, look at that. oh! the seared fois is atop a potato puree. of course.

>> this is cornois from ray nard vineyard. >> nice. >> that's wonderful. >> yes, yes, it is. really, is there a billionaire or a desk anywhere on earth who at this precise moment is eating better than us? >> no. no. >> look at that. [ speaking foreign language ] >> cheese. there must be cheese. in this case, a voluptuously reeking epoisses, who some may call overripe, but not us. this is awesome. what do we have here? >> a few cuban. >> wait a minute, you guys have a much more relaxed attitude toward the importation of cuban cigars. chartreuse, of course, and a dessert as rare as it gets, a dinosaur long believed extinct. >> this is gateau marjolaine. >> who does this? >> it's one of the painful nostalgic things.

>> layers of almond and hazelnut meringue, chocolate buttercream. my god, look at that. damn, that's good. for these guys, this is normal. this is lunch. >> sundaying are like playhouse in my house. >> it's like french playhouse. >> yeah, what do you do? >> we get dressed at the house? >> yeah. the kids too. >> he's a dandy. >> a sunday dandy. last time i did, i did the primrose and linzer torte, and creme caramel, and salad a la orange. and -- with a creme fraiche, and a cheese kurd about 15 kinds of cheese. >> right. and how many people are in your family at this meeting? >> him and his wife, two young boys. >> how old are the kids? >> they're 2 and 4. >> you your wife and a 2-year-old and 4-year-old. >> they don't make it to the end, usually. i have to prematurely open the --

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once every few decades, maybe every century, a nation will produce a hero. an escoffiere, a muhammad ali, a dalai lama, a joey marrone, somebody who changes everything about their chosen field, who changes the whole landscape. life after them is never the same.

martin picard is such a man. a heretofore unencountered hybrid of rut outdoorsman, veteran chef with many years of fine dining experience, renegade, innovator, he is one of the most influential chefs in north america. he is also a proud quebecois, and perhaps he more than everyone else has defined for a new generation of americans and canadians what that means. he's an unlikely ambassador for his country and province. but maybe not so unlikely. i mean, look at him. out trapping beaver with local trapper carl. >> no? >> so the bait is wood? >> yeah, just the bark. >> they eat the bark? >> yeah, yeah, yeah. >> i understand in pioneer days, beaver was the financial engine of canada? empires were built on it. every hat practically in the

world was made of a beaver pelt. >> that's why today it's the icon of canada. >> to a lesser extent, the tradition continues today. carl continues to trap, usually called on by provincial officials to trap beaver, and clear away dams of what could be become an overly destructive population. >> hello, my little friend. >> this is a young one. those are the ones we want to eat. >> what would you compare the meat to? is there anything like it? >> that's the thing, there's nothing like it. you know, when you eat beaver, you understand that it's beaver. >> martin, along with an encyclopedic knowledge of fine wines and an incomplicationable attachment to the music of see lien dionne, is a believer of

honoring tradition. if you trap beavers, you should if at all possible, cook them and eat them, not just strip them of their pelts. as incredible as it might seem, you can cook beaver really, really well. beaver tail, on the other hand is not actually beaver at all, rather a quick spoonbread type of thing, that in our case, goes somewhat awry during an inadvertent inferno. [ laughter ] ♪ >> the sauce almost looks like chocolate. it's so rich-looking. >> i love it. some people don't put too much blood, but i like when it's very thick. >> wow. it's absolutely delicious. >> yeah, it is. i wasn't joking. >> it tastes like chicken. no, it doesn't take like chicken at all. >> this is your first time? >> yeah. >> wow. that's something. i think you almost eat everything. >> yeah, at this point, you know, animals see me and like

oh -- >> no, no. >> not that guy. there's a joke around here somewhere, but to tell you the truth, the stuff is just too good. it's like 10 below zero in this freakin' town. that generally does not spell a good time for me. a good time for me is more like a palm tree, a beach, a swimming pool, with only cold thing is my beer. but no. these hearty cull narrons of the north like to frolic in the snow and ice. more accurately they like to obey their quebecois imperative to face dental and max joe

facial injury, skating around slapping a disk, trying to drive it in each other's direction. i believe they call this sport hockey. this is not in my blood. do you skate? >> yeah, we grew up on rinks like this. >> everyone in quebec, pretty much obligatory? >> yeah. >> hockey rinks pop up all over the city to risk teeth, groin and limb. right behind fred and dave's restaurant joe beef, a pickup game of chefs, cooks, and hospitality professionals is under way. some of these guys are kind of long in the tooth to be out there swinging sticks at each other and skating on the ice. this is normal behavior? people do this for fun? >> yeah. yeah. this is absolutely quebecois, growing up playing hockey, canadian national sport. >> and this one is already being indoctrinated. hello, young man. >> you want to play?

are you good at hockey? are you going to be a goalie or player? >> a player. >> am i going to get a mouth full of puck, by the way? being catered with fred and dave's usual restraint. >> come eat. >> hot cocoa in styrofoam cups? >> no, try a titanic cha routery, containing flintstone hunks of pork belly, bacon, homemade boudin blanc, plus links. kielbasa, smoked chops. oh, yeah, this is a truly heroic shar cruelty. >> look at the beautiful link here. >> awesome. this dish is the single-best argument for sharing a border with germany. and, of course, the finest wines known to humanity.

german wine, silvaner in pirate bottles. >> sweet. what am i drinking here? >> canadians riesling from prince albert county here, five hours from here, >> there's an allegory here somewhere. i'm reaching for it. something about fred and dave's reckless abandon, coupled with precision and technique, a hockey metaphor, perhaps. the hell with it -- ooh, look, sausages! the capital one cash rewards card gives you 1% cash back on all purchases, plus a 50% annual bonus. and everyone but her... no. no! no. ...likes 50% more cash. but i don't give up easy... do you want 50% more cash? yes! yes?! ♪ [ male announcer ] the capital one cash rewards card gives you 1% cash back on every purchase, plus a 50% annual bonus on the cash you earn. it's the card for people who like more cash. ♪ what's in your wallet? why?

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montreal to quebec city by rail. 160 miles of wintry vistas whip past the windows, evocative for some of another time. >> the canadian caviar, sturgeon canadian caviar. >> i'm not sure about dave mcmillen, but in fred morin's perfect world, we would all travel by rail.

it would still be the golden age of rail travel. so tell me about the great canadian rail system. >> it's purely emotional. >> really? >> nothing rational about it. >> fred is what one might call conservatively an aficionado. >> how extreme is your nerdism? this is about as bad as it gets. >> you have other operating manuals? >> yes. >> books, printed ephemera, fred retains an enduring love for the great iron horses. that still take passengers across the frozen land he calls home, but it's something more than just nostalgia. it's also an appreciation for a dying art. >> it's like the old cruise ships. you transport your comfort, you know? >> for those halcyon days of cross-country rails, lavish dining cars, luxurious sleeping compartments, a bar car with liveried attendants.

>> look at the menus of how people used to eat on the trains, it's inspiration for how we cook in the restaurant. >> with the sweetbreads and fresh peas. >> very nice pictures in the dining by train book, with the guy holding the turkey and cutting the turkey. you order a drink, it comes from a bottle made out of glass, into a glass made out of glass, which is cool in our day and age. >> it goes back to service, doesn't it? thank you. >> we are presented with a perfectly serviceable omelette. there may no longer be a smoking lounge with brass spit tonights, but this does not mean a traveler has to suffer. do you always travel with a truffle shaffer? >> only during truffle season. >> as a gentleman must. you have to get an in-action photograph. people are going to be expecting wait, where is my fist-sized truffle? >> can i get the truffle option, please? >> oh, of course.

don't forget the foie. quebec city, one of the oldest european settlements in north america. samuel des champlain, known as the father of new france, sailed up the st. lawrence and founded the site in 1608. when the fighting started with you know who, quebec city was the french stronghold until the bitter end, when the french fell at the plains of abraham. ♪ the french may have lost that one, but some things french have stayed firm, unbowed, resiliently unchanged by trends or history. the continental is the kind of place which i am unreservedly sent mental.

>> i remember eating here with my grandparents here. >> classic, un-ironic cuisine a la sienne, meaning dishes you haven't seen since like forever, a hipster-free zone of classics, such as -- caesar salad, tossed fresh to order tableside, and beef tartare, prepared tableside as one must. shrimp cocktail not deconstructed, a shrimp cocktail, the way jesus wants you to eat them, all served by a dedicated professional. in culinary school we were taught this, real customers as your final class. we had to do all of that, which inevitably would fly off the fork and land in somebody's soup. i was so bad at it. i would start with the orange, run into trouble, i'll be right back, behind the skein i'm

stripping the thing with my teeth. at least once a day one of the students would set themselves or the customers on fire. the sterno would spill, and there would be this line from the thing down up their leg. no, that doesn't happen here. like i said, professional. >> this is going to go like a big fireball? >> good. >> the kind who know how to properly prepare these dishes. >> sweet. >> like a goosebump moment. >> yeah. >> for dave, another classic, filet de boeuf. a sauce made of conknack, cream and glaze. and for fred, scampi newberg. when is the last time you saw the word "newberg" on a menu? >> awesome, absolutely awesome. >> for me, that most noble of dishes, dover sole.

this appears to be one of the few remaining servers alive who knows how to take it off the bone, sauce it, and properly serve it. >> thank you very much. >> a pleasure. bon apetit. >> merci. man, i love this place. so happy. very comforting. there's continuity in this world. across town -- ♪ another thing entirely. the younger, wilder l'affaire est ketchup, which i'm reliably informed means everything is cool in local idiom. >> at this point in my life, i just don't know anymore. are these young cooks, servers, dedicated entrepreneurs, are they hipsters? or am i a cranky old -- who

thinking that anybody belows 30 is a hipster? i don't know, but i admire them. >> how much did it cost you when you opened? >> not much. >> look at this tiny electric four-burner stove. at no point in my career could i have worked with one of these without murdering everyone in the vicinity before hanging myself from the nearest beam. >> how long did it take you to adapt? >> i would say like three months. at the beginning, i was lucky i didn't have a lot of customers. it was like, oh, man! i was freaking out. >> and yet these kids today, look at them go, serving a wildly ambitious and quite substantial ever-changing menu out of this -- this suzy homemaker oven. tonight razor claims, and a cream of haddock roe. very cool. thank you. i love razor clams. and coquilles st. jacques, and

you'll notice that nobody in quebec seems to skimp on the portions. a terrine of foie gras, and truffled sweetbreads, and some goose heart for good measure. >> another goose heart. excellent. >> hearts in general. >> ooh, also the grilled tomato bread. that's saltcod for you anglos. i'm all swollen up, and ready to burst in a livery omnidirectional mist. hotel/motel time for me. the capital one cash rewards card

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try capzasin-hp. it penetrates deep to block pain signals for hours of relief. capzasin-hp. take the pain out of arthritis. how canadian is quebec? are they truly one entity or two? this is a question that has been wrestled with for some time. quebec is certainly part of canada, but in many ways both culturally spiritually and linguistically, it's very much another thing entirely. there's a lot of history, much of it contentious. go back far enough and you get a clearer picture of why. the french arrived on the shores

of quebec city in the early 16th century, but succumbed to the military might of great britain in the mid 18th. thus began a gradual but steady persecution of all things french. the quebecois have struggled mightily to hang on to their french heritage and language. the issue of seceding entirely, a notion that persists to some extent even today. journalist patrick meets me at m sur masson, to understand what many feel is at stake. so i was going to talk about the whole history of french quebecoi siismt, but i have to get to the pressing matter of the day -- pasta-gate. >> what do you want to know? >> for those not up on current quebec politics, pasta-gate refers to an incident where local authorities notified an italian restaurant that they were in violation of french laws, because they used the word

"pasta" which is italian. >> this is -- >> okay. stop apologizing, okay? >> don't get me wrong. my last name is bore deign. french. i lean hard. i'm normally sympathetic to the language laws. >> you don't think it's preposterous? >> i don't think think it is -- but here we have a situation -- >> it's stupid, i agree with you completely this province 40 years ago was in some respects an english city, so we needed to have language laws for signage and stuff. >> signage, for instance, must by law be principally in french. french first in all things. >> but ever bureaucracy produces by temperature products of stupidity, and it will not stand. >> the anglo-canadians treated quebecois like second-class crap for much of history. i get it. i would want my own thing and when i got it, i would want to make sure there's no back

sliding. >> when the first sovereignist party to be elected in 1976, it didn't come out of a vacuum. it came from a couple decades of awakening and struggle. >> 50 years from now, will people still be speaking french in montreal? >> yes. >> no doubt about it. >> no doubt about it. >> french first is something most would agree with. how far and how rigorously you want to go with that? well -- >> do you think there was ever any possibility or real majority or plurality of quebecois that would have voted in separate nation status? >> in english, you guys say timing is everything. timing was never better in the period 1990, '91, '92. because, in '95 this country came inches one being broken up. >> do you think it will ever happen? in the history of the world? >> i don't know, but i know one thing, everyone who says separatism is dead in this country and this province is a fool.

>> no matter how you feel about quebec as either separate from or as an essential part of greater canada, any reasonable person loves this place. >> correct me if i'm wrong, we wilensky's is famous -- for the sandwich, the special? >> right. >> in what tradition does this fall? >> basically eastern europe. it was a survival thing. it was because they were poor. that's what they could make. >> wilensky's, an old-school corner institution around since 1932, serving up pressed-beef baloney sandwiching, and salami specials, along with egg creams and milkshakes. so the special, and an appropriate beverage, egg cream. very happy. >> here's how it goes. there are rules.

the special is always served with mustard. it is never cut in two. don't ask why, just because. that's the way it's always been done. a little respect for tradition, please. >> i'm happy now. you know? some things are beloved institutions for a reason. this is delicious. thank you. alec, for this mission i upgraded your smart phone. ♪ right. but the most important feature of all is... the capital one purchase eraser. i can redeem the double miles i earned with my venture card to erase recent travel purchases. and with a few clicks, this mission never happened. uh, what's this button do? [ electricity zaps ] ♪ you requested backup? yes. yes i did. what's in your wallet? as part of a heart healthy diet. that's true.

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the tradition of the cabane a sucre au pied de cochon or sugar shack is as old as quebec, and maple syrup, for 70% of the world's supply comes from here. deeply embedded in the maple syrup outdoor lumberjack lifestyle is the cabin in the woods, where maple sap is collected and boiled down to syrup. over time, many of these cabins became informal eating houses, dining halls for workers and a few guests, where a lucky few could sit at communal tables and enjoy the bounty of the trees and forests around them. martin picard has taken this tradition to somehow what is both its logical conclusion and insane extreme, creating his own cabane a sucre, only open during maple

season and serving food stemming directly from the humble yet hearty roots. it makes perfect sense in one way. i mean, 130 acres produce about 32,000 gallons of maple sap, which run through these tubes to here where they're cooked down to about 800 gallons of syrup, which is more or less what they use here. nothing leaves the property. and it makes sense, while you're here to raise hogs, and cattle on the property. maybe keep a cabin or two around for any friends who get too loaded to sleep it off. but this? this? is there really any reason for this? what are you doing here? why do you have to make life so hard? if money were your primary motivation -- >> no. >> -- this doesn't seem like the fastest road to untold wealth. >> my friend's father had a sugar shack.

everybody had one. you can go back three generations, they had a sugar shack. i'm very proud of quebec. i'm very proud of canada, you know? >> you celebrate canadian history, canadian traditions, canadian ingredients in a way that no one else has. are you some kind of patriot? is that what's going on here? is it national quebecois fervor? >> i say it's one of the most important restaurants for me. in north america, if not the world. >> it's an artist installation in a way, if you look at it. >> the meal begins -- begins with a tower of maple desserts. good lord. sponge maple toffee, maple doughnuts, beaver tails, maple cotton candy, but wait, there's more. almond croissants, whip-it bisques, in

nougat. there we go. i think that's a first for me. i've never seen that done. >> no? >> not with a hammer. let the madness begin. next, a whole lobe of foie gras with baked beans on a pancake cooked in duck fast, of course, cottage cheese and eggs cooked in maple syrup. wow, that's awesome. there's a healthy salad, sauteed duck hearts, gills ards, and pig's ear, topped with a heaping pile of pork runs. >> good lord. and a calf brain and maple bacon omelette. and these. >> how is this made? >> with love. >> spanko-encrusted duck drumsticks. and maple barbecue sauce. >> good lord. wow. >> this is a classic quebec dish, called -- a meat pie. >> attitudier due chac, a whole

lot of cheese, calf brain, sweetbreads, bacon and arugula, but with martin, that's not sufficient. >> usually there's a little truffle. >> yes, black truffles. >> more truffle. >> it's going to be too much truffle. >> my blood is getting thicker as i look at that. >> now the main course, a home grown smoked right out front local ham, with pineapple and green beans almandine. and with chicken, but with martin, chicken is never just chicken. >> stuffed if foie gras and lobster. we pump lobster bisk into the chicken. >> good god. there is a light at the end of the tunnel. >> oh. >> someone should be singing the national anthem now, really. >> in practically prehistoric old-schooled canadian classic,

maple syrup is heated, then poured on snow, making a kind of taffy, but it does present some issues. >> no, no, no. >> what? >> take a big one, and you have to suck it. don't swallow it, you know? >> look, you have to go like that, slowly, slowly. just slowly, slowly. that's how it's good. that's it. >> can i do that in a manly way? you just sort of look away in a distracted way. i'm not really -- >> the best way is to look up. >> finally maple meringue cake and maple ice cream with chocolate shards. any suggestion on how to attack

it. >> we did it once. i went the chef suggests a cone action the chef suggests you eat it like that. there's the thing. i think there's too much focusing on the food, wow, these very intellectual and wow. i've done too much of all those -- you know? i don't want to do that. i don't want to play games any more. because food is feces in waiting, you know? [ laughter ] this is cnn. all business purchases.

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-free is good. -free is very good. [ male announcer ] now get 50% off brake pads and shoes at meineke. if there's one thing you always need on a cold snowy night, it's yet another hearty meal. i meet back up with dave and the sister restaurant to joe beef. >> i think we overcompensate because of our insecurity of not being like good cooks. >> you know what? it's a coop binges of low self-esteem and generosity that explains the amount of food, perhaps. >> first course -- >> gravlax of char. >> salman gundi. >> look at that.

unbelievable. look at the aspic work. >> this is salmon pastrami. >> wait a minute, this is super classic. >> and this oueff engelee. classically garnished with white ham, tarragon leaves, black truffles. >> oh, my god, i was pretty sure i would live the rest of my life without ever seeing this again. delicious. but tonight after a full week of franco-canadian full-on assaults on our livers and delights, they thought it would be to take advantage of the insanely delicious fare by their brilliant chef omar, who's from pakistan. amazing, authentic pakistani food. >> what do we have here? >> butter chicken crack, tikka,

a little mushrooms, rabbit korma, fingerling with fenugreek and fennel. this is donkey hanarri. >> the dishes continue, a pakistani gumbo with okra and coriander, a says my seed and green pepper curry. hangar steak, scotch egg, and an authentic goat biryani. wow, biryani is awesome. >> are you full? >> yeah. pretty close. >> we did good work here. in the end and perhaps as a nod to the anglotradition, however, there will be stilten. this is a genius meal. these princes of gas tron me, never a suboptimal moment, nothing short of excellent accepted.

beyond excellent, too much excellent, yes, possibly. over the top? yeah, definitely. it all comes around in the end. the circle of life. we begin at the beginning, the heart and soul of every right-thinking quebecois, apparently -- ice, a stick, and a puck. fred and dave and martin picard are joined by the original god of montreal gastronomy, the great chef norman la pris to watch the canadiens lay waste to the north carolina hurricanes, all the while eating, of course, and drinking, as it turns out, the finest wines known to humanity. >> and here we go. oh!

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