♪ i've always wanted to get as far away as possible from the place where i was born. far both geographically and spiritually, to leave it behind.

♪ ♪ i took a wall ♪ through this beautiful world ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ perhaps something good ♪ in this beautiful world ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ tangier, it's morocco. but from 1923 through 1956, it

was loosely governed by the major powers, an international zone. for years, it seemed, everything was permitted, nothing was forbidd forbidden. at the northern tip of africa, a short ferry hop from spain, tangier was a magnet for writers, spies, and artists. if you were a bad boy of your time, you liked drugs, the kind of sex that was frowned upon at home and an affordable lifestyle set against an exotic background, tangier was for you. matisse, genest, william burroughs, many have come this way, staying a while or hanging around, but no one stayed longer or became more associated with tangier than the novelist and composer paul bowles.

in works like "the sheltering sky" he created a romantic vision that persists today, a dream that's become almost inseparable in the minds of many from reality. i'm here to find that dream city. the place burroughs referred to as "enter zone." "interzone." tangier like i said was a city of ex-pats -- people with pasts, people who simply didn't like where they were and crave somewhere and something else. the grand socco is the gateway to the medina where you could find the cass into, which means

fortress, by the way. the port is to the east, and right in the middle of it all, the petit socco, called the last spot, the meeting place, the switchboard of tangier. reasons for settling in tangier diverge, but everyone sooner or later, since the beginning of memory comes to cafe tingis. jonathan dawson came to this city 20 years ago as a journalist and never left. he lives a live not too distant from burroughs' fantasy. taking tea every day at 4:00 served by his manservant. he may not have a gazelle, but a pet rooster will do. he pax the rounds every day, seeing the old faces, ending up sooner or later here.

>> this is the petit socco? >> yes. it existed in venetian times, roamen times, in the portuguese times, the english were here for 22 years, then the international city until 1956, now here. very historic square. very historic. >> as a writer, i've noticed everyone who comes here to do the article does the same article. >> so damn boring. they're all the beat generation and there are lots of other stories, but everyone likes the beats, bill burroughs, tennessee williams, they were all here, but that's a small part of moroccan history. that's a 15-year page. there was a life before that and a life after that. you're here. >> yeah. it was inevitable. let's pretend those guys never came. what is this place? >> the reality is, you can read the story and live it. people do come here and try to live it, about you they don't

stay very long. they smoke a little dope, go to a cheap hotel and go home with bedbugs. >> and a great story. >> and a great story. >> the attitude here is different than other parts of morocco. they have a higher tolerance of tradition of bad or outrageous behavior. >> they have a high tolerance of mad people, you know? but moroccans essentially are very tolerant people. they quite like madness as well. they celebrate that a well. >> how moroccan is tangier. >> it's a moroccan city with a european outlook. you can see spain and gibraltar, but it's a very moroccan city. i'm 62 years old. i didn't know international days which finished in 1956, but at that time i think europeans may have outnumbered moroccans in the center of this city. not the case now, there's very few europeans actually living here full time. >> the notion of living a life

apart, of being somewhere else, there are those who like that feeling. i like that feeling. then there are those who may live apart, may live somewhere else, but they're not entirely comfortable. it's the difference annoys them or is a burden. >> it did, and it frustrates them. some people have to leave home to find their home. i'm one of those people. whereas i didn't feel at home in the country i was born in at all. but here i feel okay. i feel very, very happy here. >> there is indeed something special about this place. burroughs described it as a maze of sunless twisting streets filled with blind alleys. its smell was particularly notable to him, including a mix of hashish, seared meat, and sewage.

tangier before anything else is essentially a port city, with all the things that traditionally come with port cities. it's situated at the choke point between the atlantic ocean and the mediterranean sea. the moroccan coast is a rich fishing ground, and a lot of people make their living from the sea. on shore they use a method call senhal fishing, where weighted nets basically drag fish across the bottom of the sea. some of that fish, the good stuff, anyway, ends up here. the saveur de poisson, or restaurant populare or popeye's. the place has a lot of names, but locals and ex-pats alike saying this has the best tagine in town. the chef and owner sources a lot of his stuff and produce from

the greens in the mountains. the back room is dedicated to sorting and drying various herbs which he blends into a secret mix that he claims has all sorts of healthful and bonner-inspiring benefits. if every dish i told would make me strong, i would have a permanent pup tent going on down there, so i take all of that with a grain of salt. his son delivers the food. it all starts with fresh olives, and warm, very good bread. and you get this stuff. everybody gets it. a pulpy purree of figures, raisins, straw berries and full of mohammed's potent herbs and spices. >> all night, it cooks. >> yeah yeah, i get it it's

supposed to make me more manly. you know what? i'm eating. let's talk about that, sunshine. ta good. ine is an original stew, that can include meat, vegetables or ship. tonight, baby shark, calamari and monkfish, smoked in the classic clay top. it's supposed to force the condensation back into the dish to make it moist and tender. it's delicious, with the green and aromatics, i have no idea what they are. i've never had anything like that. the tangier version of farm to table. what is that? thank you. and a whole turbo, brushed with olive oil, salt and pepper and some coriander, then grilled perfectly over the coals. cuddled up next to the fish,

tiny shark kabobs. cute. wow, spectacular. all of this for 20 bucks? good value. i thought we did a pretty good josh on mr. fish. that will teach you. >> units he's freaking me out. it's like that guy with, you know, you're tripping, and does this to you? for dessert, strawberries, pine nuts and honey. like the whole meal, it's eccentric and delicious. thank you. >> you're welcome. >> i haven't had so much fruits and nuts since altaban. i told, mick, this is a bad crowd. back of the shop, but he's like,

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in tangier, i lived in one room in the native quarter. i have not taken a bath in a year nor changed my clothes or removed them, except to stick a needle every hour in the fibrous gray wood of flesh in terminal addiction. i never cleaned or dusted the room. empty ampoule boxes and garbage

piled up to the ceiling. life and water long since turned off for nonpayment. i did absolutely nothing. i could look at the end of my shoes for eight hours. i was only roused to action when the hourglass of junk ran out. the words of william seward burroughs, one of my heroes. he came to tangier in 1983, shortly after shooting his wife to death in a drunken accident in mexico city. he was a heroin addict, a homosexual and a inspiration to those who became known as the beat. there was nothing beatnik about him. he was a somewhat stuffy, well-dressed st. louis son of a good family gone wrong. he was also to my mind the greatest writer of the whole damn bunch. on the road, you can have it.

his classic "naked lunch" was written here. a nonlinear, dark, dry humored searly critical and satirical and profane masterpiece. burrows was apparently he for much of the process, on heroin, or locally valuable opiate. and the daily staple in many of these parts. hashish. haish is the concentrated thc resin of the cab abyss plant as well as the leaves and flowers that have been compressed into sheet or brick-like form. keif is the part of the plant containing only the strongest concentration of psychoactive ingredients. majune is a confection made from keef, fruits, nuts, chocolate and honey. i was, of course, fascinated by

this product since reading about it, and inquired of some local contacts, who shall necessarily go unnamed. how is it made? this is what i wanted to know. they were kind enough to demonstrate. it's first chopped into fine granules and slowly added to butter and chocolate over a low heat to toast it and release the psychotropic goodies win. wild the binder is loly cooking, it's blended with cashews, almond, walnuts and dried fruit. this will be the framework to suspend the thc-laden goodness in the next step. the cannabis-laced butter chocolate is added along with plenty of honey to bind together all of the ingredients. then mix.

last, you roll the entirety of the mixture into a ball and either refrigerate or dig right in. of course, network standards and practices prohibit me from even tasting this delicious and reportedly mind-eightering treat. i'm guessing, anyway. so until i see chris, john and wolf doing bong arrives in "the situation room," i will abide by these rules, because that's the kind of guy i am. there's one particular cafe in the heart of the cass into that's drawn in foreign dignitaries, rock stars, aris crass and artists since it opened its doors in 1943. cafe baba. sweet mint tea in a thick slow-moving haze of smoke. it smells like my dorm room

1972. good evening, hello. this is george bajalia, and i should say i have no direct knowledge of either george or zaneb smoking any illyle substances or do i have any recollection of me doing anything untoward in their presence. that would be, like, wrong, dude. others in the room, however, well, don't give me that innocent look, you young punks. i know somebody in here is smoking reefer. how stoned are people here? >> we can ask, just ask. >> you're not getting totally ripped here? >> no. it's a functional part of daily life. for a long time, the rest of the country and the government didn't really like tangier a whole lot. it was seedy. there were foreigners that

here and -- >> it makes money. >> he sees it as a future economic economy. is many good or bad? >> for moroccans, it's work, but of course ex-pats want to keep tangier like they know it before. >> i mean, this cafe is very similar to the way it was, but there's a tv right there. >> flat screen. >> that's why people come here. they come to watch soccer games. >> you can well imagine the american guy who's lived in tangier for 30 years, he comes in, there's a flat screen tv on the wall, he's like -- what? you've ruined the authenticity and the integrity, but the moroccan guy at the next table is like, wait a minute, asshole, you have a flat screen at home. i want one too. what is wrong with that? >> there are people here that probably have never heard of -- if you follow that, ms. no progression, no progress, no

change. >> the think about cafe baba, just sitting here, taking in the atmosphere, you begin to appreciate the place. >> there's something different happening here. >> contact high, whoa, i'm hungry. wait until the spanish tortilla dude across the street opens for business. sfoo this is abdullah. he specializes in one thing, making an omelette. it's like a spanish tortilla. the potatoes are boiled, diced, meat with beaten eggs and cooked in a -- yeah, the eggs, i am me, we are you, and where is my omelette? because i am hungry. >> one, two, three? >> abdelileh is waiting for you when you come stumbling out of

cafe baba. coincidence or not? you be the judge. >> ketchup and mayonnaise. everything. >> sure, why not. conned meant options i would be hard pressed to turn down at this precise moment anyway. >> dude, that's awesome. i'll have 12 more. hmm, it says here that cheerios helps lower cholesterol as part of a heart healthy diet. that's true. ...but you still have to go to the gym. ♪ the one and only, cheerios ♪ the one and only, cheerios

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[growl] we used to live with a bear. we'd always have to go everywhere with it. get in the front. we drive. it was so embarrasing that we just wanted to say, well, go away. shoo bear. but we can't really tell bears what to do. moooooommmmmm!!! then one day, it was just gone. mom! [announcer] you are how you sleep. tempur-pedic. ok, well, remember last week when you hit vinny in the head with a shovel? [chuckling] i do not recall that. of course not. well, it was too graphic for the kids, so i'm going to have to block you. you know, i got to make this up to you.

this is vinny's watch.

paul bowles lived here for 50 years, and sherry nutting was part of his inner circle. she was his friend, record keeper of sorts, and photographer. you arrived when? >> i came in the '70s, but went down to marrakesh. in '86, i wrote a letter and said i had to meet him and take his picture. he wrote back and said, come and visit. well, i never left. >> a lot of people came here to live that dream, that life. has the reality come to resemble

his perception? >> the tangier i say is paul bowles. i still feel it. you can still find the magic. >> the market or souk is one of the best. the vendors are still pretty impressive. wander the markets long enough and you're sure to stumble across the unexpected. whose? sure. how about a lance et? here nothing goes to waste. char broiled to crispy burnt per specs it's served on a crunchy lunch brea. the grant socco's indoor market officers a variety of smoked, cured and fresh meat. smells good in here. the stuff looks good. i've heard this cheese is amazing. >> it's good. >> could i have one? >> a berber favorite, fresh goat

cheese wrapped in palm leaves. >> yeah, they're beautiful, aren't they? >> it's good. [ speaking foreign language ] >> a little cheese, a little flatbread, the perfect moroccan breakfast to go. we're aheaded to the jabal foothills, about 80 kilometers of tangier, to a place called jajouka. it's the home of the people of the al sharif tribe, which loosely translated means the saintly people. jajouka is also home to one of the morocco's better-known musicians, bashir attar. jazz a rock and roll musicians have travels the world to meet him. he's a lineage of master musicians, all from this mountain village.

♪ famously dubbed as a 4,000 years old rock band, bashir, his son and these musicians maintain one of the oldest still living musical traditions on earth. ♪ we're invited for dinner. it's family style, of course, beginning with braywine, like a kefta pocket, seasoned with beef, baked until golden, then crisped in oil. i'm good for now -- well, one more. uh-oh here we go. the main event, tagine of chicken. >> welcome, tony. >> thank you.

just gorgeous. first, chopped onions, garlic, parsley and tomb rick are blended with olive oil. the bird is generously coated an stuffed after simmering in a touch of water and oil, the chicken is fried until crispy, served with roasted almonds, paprika and ginger. nice. >> he smells the food. >> like anywherer in the arab world, eating with your hands, also the right one, is proper dining etiquette. >> this is spin gnash. >> it's wild spinach. it grows in the mountains? >> yeah. >> vocalized chopped mountain spinach. garr in, cilantro, hot and black peppers finished with lemon and

olive oil. that's delicious. >> the greatest taste for food in the world, man. >> i love good food. this is good. >> yeah. >> after dinner some fruit, some mint tea, and let the music begin. for centuries, the master musician of jajouka have been the musical choice of the royal families of morocco, excused by the country's rulers from manual labor to devote themselves to musical training. ♪

the powerful style of sufi transmusic has inspired most music seekers, including most notably perhaps paul bowles, who wrote and recorded them, and spread the word. brian jones was here and recorded "the pipes of pan at jajouka" with these musicians. the word spread, and the master musicians have ended up being featured by albums. for years, if you were a rock god, you had to come here, dig the crazy percussion, strings and pipes that took you to another place. it's intricate, hypnotic, beautiful. if you're in the right frame of

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the ancient world residing next to and around the new one. you can walk around inside the movie in your head, play the bogie character you never were, all against an all too willing, all too genuine backdrop. ordinary just about the last thing in the world i would be interested in doing is antiquing, but buried in the network of twisting narrow streets of the old city is boutique majid, and he's one interesting guy. majid left his hometown, and came here, emptying ashtrays at the wild parties. he saw what people would buy for themselves, how they decorate

their homes. he started to look around for himself, scoring, then reselling art and antiques. it became something of an obsession. now he artifacts from morocco, and all acontrolling north africa are ball by collectors all over the world. jewelry, and old doors. >> wow, these are incredibly beautiful. tell me about that. >> amber, coral, shells. these used to be currency. >> how old is this? >> early '20s. the amber is millions of years orlando. >> how much are you selling it for? >> by weight. it's a confide heavy, 429 grams, so it comes like 42,000 -- >> so that's how much in dollars? >> almost $5,000. >> about $5,000. >> almost. >> should we look at another

floor? >> oh, yes, follow me. there's a nice collection of things from the sahara. >> so you travel a lot? >> not like you. >> oh, this is for pounding -- >> yes, this is from the gon tribe. >> how much for this? >> around $300. for this? that's very reasonable. i'll be buying that. that's going to be an old friend. >> also memory of tangier ichblts a memory of tangier as well. majid suggests lunch at andalous, a locals only place nearby. >> as a moroccaner, so many people come with a romantic notion. do people have a realistic expectation? are they looking for morocco or this phantasm? >> it is a phantasm.

it is when you get here, you know morocco, you feel that you are in morocco, but not. there's a lot of mediterranean attached to this town. also the history, people hear about tangier -- when i first came in the '60s, everybody said you came late. >> right. >> now i'm saying the same thing, they come and they saw wow, i say -- >> what was better about those days? >> well, for me at that time i was young, and it was the boom of hippies, and it was a destination, you know, cafe baba, meet bob dylan, and the parties were going on. i miss these kind of parties. people would fly from everywhere to the party, and they make the whole town move. blue and white party, white and gold party, hat party, you know, it's amazing. you see people coming in with amazing hats, like a cage with a

bird, extravagant hats, you know. they put so much energy and time into the parties, you know? look at -- >> now, that looks good. >> tomatoes brushed with local olive oil, garlic and coriander. liver kabobs, beef lever to be exact, grilled over charcoal. >> that looks very nice. >> for fish, a bit of swordfish and orange roughy. >> that is just beautiful. >> how do you like the tomato? >> the swordfish is amazing. so how else have things changed? >> you saw how many tourists there was today? i want they were in a hurry. they even try to avoid the eye contact. if you get my eye contact, i'm going to rip you off -- >> or make you buy something? >> i don't know. >> do they buy? >> they don't even say hello.

>> they don't buy. >> of course, we call them penguins. they have short hands that don't get into the pockets -- no, i'm just kidding. everyone's retirement dream is different;

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♪ when tangier was interzone back in the day, it seemed to some i'm sure as if the ex-pats outnumbed better the locals. that was never true, but you certainly could live a life apart, make your own world within the existing one. reinvent yourself and live entirely in a universe of your own creation. far from the grand socco is a 14-acre estate owned by christopher gibbs, a well-known dealer of antiques and longtime ex-pat. today he's having a garden party. who's coming in jonathan, you know. maggie dean is from scotland. she's been living here for more than a decade.

gp, a frenchman who has a hand on a lot of businesses, including a cafe in the casbah. an american, she's been here forever, led many lives, i gather, and occasionally translate books from ma grabbi to english, and the dashing and mistier use baron, an artist from chile, who's been living and working in the casbah since a haste yegg exit from puerto rico for reasons never fully explained. on the menu, bastilla, a meat or often pigeon pie as traditional moroccan as it gets. today made by gibbs' full-time cooks. jamilla and fat ma. it's chicken slow-cooked, pulled or shredded and folded into an

egg mixture. this is layered with blanched almonds, poutered sugar and cinnamon. the whole lot is wrapped in a crepe-like dough. after baking to a golden crispyness, the final touch is a dusting of even more cinnamon and sugar. it has a sweet savory thing going on, and it's quite tasty. >> if you get nervous when you go in a room and you tough the light switch and the lights don't come on, you shouldn't be in this country. >> what was that first moment when you said i could live here? >> i'm still quite unsure about that. i came here first in 1958. when it was quite different. everyone wore native dress, but islam still the throbbing motor of life here. i have a very tender feelings for morocco and the and courtesy

of the they say bonjour, monsieur. blah, blah, blah. >> i always feel welcome here. i never consider that this is mine. it's theirs and they have allowed me to live here in a very nice way, and i feel recognition. they know who i am. they know who i am. >> there is a side-by-side aspect to life here that's very unusual. >> very unusual here. it's mostly -- you can do whatever you want if you do it with good manners. >> but it is sort of a station of the cross, bad boys of culture. rambo, the stones, guyson. burrows writes about it. he came about here to be a wr e writer. >> a joiner before he was a writer. >> as so many of us were were. you would come here, working within a romantic tradition,

burrows said right up front, to me it was a little guy who lunged around in a smoking jacket or a caftan smoking a hash pipe or opium pipe in a beautiful house boat littered with sleeping boys. >> yes. >> or girls. >> to what extent did that world exist and to what extent was that world created by people who showed up that expectation? >> since bill departed, dear, wonderful, marvelous man, since he's gone, it's been tame now. >> he was genteel. >> he was the very opposite of genteel. he was an outlaw. >> my husband knew him very well, and he was selling the yes, and he said i cured him of being a drug addict. i said how? he said i turned him into an alcoholic. >> who smokes hashish at this table, please raise your hand? >> is the camera on.

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tangier, and i'm headed out. most cities in the islamic world getting a beer can be difficult. not here. as long as you're outside the medina, nearly everything goes. tangier reverts to its libbertine past. here, western influences become very apparent. ♪ >> any night of the week is good nights for young moroccans to take to the streets of the ville nouveau. this man is from a generation of moroccans far removed from the romantic conseats of the bowles berra era. he's invited me out for a casual snack, spanish-style sandwiches with tuna, veggies, hard-cooked

eggs and a healthy wad of mayo, a crispy layer of french fries within the sandwich. this is delicious, by the way. the bread here is very good. you work in magazine, journalist? >> i'm not a journalist, but i own an urban magazine here in tangier. to inform moroccans, we are living in a place pretty special, not for burrows, henri matisse came to tangier this. city has something which makes it different from other cities. >> well, what about young artists, young writers, young musicians? did they come here expecting this romantic wonderland of the '50s. >> some were. i'm going to say some were too bohemian. >> too bohemian. >> >> because they thought like coming and being an artist. >> is going to be enough. >> it s going to be enough. today it's not enough. it's pretty tough for them, and most of them packed their bags.

>> right. >> today there's so many investments comes on here in tangier, thanks to our king. investors are here. have attracted tourists and the most important part of it is we should keep the old parts of the city intact. the kaz bar, the medina, that's was hard to do because when you have a european purchasing power they come over here. >> they come, like we come. we embrace it. other people want to come, and then we roll out. will tangier's unique character survive? >> i hope so. i really hope so. >> tangier is morocco. always was morocco and recently

the country's leadership has embraced it, in all its ill-reputed glory. the days of predatory poets in search of literary inspiration and young flesh are probably over for good. hippies can just as easily get their bond rips in portland or peoria, but the good stuff, the real good stuff, the sounds and smells and the look of tangier, but you see and hear when you lean out the window and take it all in, that's here to stay.

hello, i'm randi kaye. it was a shocking trial revealing details of sex, stalking and secrets. now, five years after jodi arias killed her boyfriend, after four months of riveting testimony, we have a verdict. guilty of first-degree murder. tonight, watch the testimony, weigh the evidence yourself, and you decide whether you agree or disagree with the jury's decision and whether jodi deserves the death penalty. we want to warn you, it is graphic. and the images and the language may be too explicit for young viewers.