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to leave it behind. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ and felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪

tangier, it's morocco, but from 1923 through 1956 it was loosely governed by the major powers in international zone. for years it seemed everything was permitted. nothing was forbidden. at the northern tip of africa, a short ferry hop from spain, tangier was a magnet for writers, remittance men, spies and artists. if you were a bad boy your time, you liked drugs, kind of sex frowned upon at home and affordable lifestyle set against an exotic background, tang engineer was for you. nice. matisse, jenet, william burrows. many have come this way, staying a while or hanging around, but no one stayed longer or became more associated with tang engineer than the novelist and

composer paul vols. in works like "the sheltering sky" we created a romantic vision of tangier that even persists today, a dream that has become almost inseparable in the minds of many from reality. i'm here to find that dream city. the place burrows referred to as interzone. ♪ tangier, like i said, was a city of ex-pats, people with pasts, people who simply didn't like where they were and craved somewhere and something else. the grand soko was the gateway

to the medina where you could find the grand kaz bar which means fortress. the port of tangier was in the middle of it, what uncle burrows called the last stop, the meeting place, the switchboard of tangier. reasons for settling in tangier diverge but everyone sooner or later since the beginning of memory comes to cafe tingis. jonathan dawson came to this city over 20 years ago as a journalist and he never left. he lives a life not too distant from burroughs' fantasy. taking tea every day at 4:00 served by his manservant. he may not have a gazelle, but a pet rooster will do. every day he makes the rounds of the cafes seeing old faces,

ending up sooner or later here. >> this is the petit socco? >> yes. it existed in venetian times, roman times, in the portuguese times. the english were here for 22 years and then the international city until 1956, now here. this is a very historic square, very historic. >> as a writer, i've noticed everyone who comes here to do the article does the same article. >> so damn boring. they're all the beat generation and there are lots of other stories in morocco, but everyone likes the beats, bill burrows and all that stuff and tennessee williams. they were all here. >> yeah. >> but that's a small part of moroccan history. that's a 15-year page. there was a life before that and a life after that. you're here. >> yeah. it was inevitable. let's pretend those guys never came. what is this place? >> the reality is, you can read

the story and people can live it. people do come here and try to live it, but they don't stay very long. they smoke a little dope, go to a cheap hotel and go home with bedbugs. >> and a great story. >> and a great story. >> the attitude here is different than other parts of morocco. they have a higher tolerance of tradition of bad or outrageous behavior. >> they have a high tolerance of mad people, you know? but moroccans essentially are very tolerant people. they quite like madness as well. they kind of celebrate this. >> how moroccan is tangier? >> it's a moroccan city with a european outlook. you can see spain and gibraltar, and you can see all sorts of people passing through, but it's a very moroccan city. i'm 62 years old. i didn't know international days which finished in 1956, but at that time i think europeans may have outnumbered moroccans in the center of this city. it's not the case now. there's very few europeans actually living here full-time.

>> the notion of living a life apart, of being somewhere else, there are those who like that feeling. i like that feeling. then there are those who may live apart, may live somewhere else, but they're not entirely comfortable. it's the difference annoys them or is a burden. >> it did, and it frustrates them. some people have to leave home to find their home. i'm one of those people. whereas i didn't feel at home in the country i was born in at all. but here i feel okay. i feel very, very happy here. >> there is indeed something special about this place. by rows described the native quarter of tangier as a sunless twisting of streets filled with blind alleys. its smell was particularly notable to him, including a mix of hashish, seared meat and sewage.

tangier before anything else is essentially a port city, with all the things that traditionally come with port cities. it's situated at the choke point between the atlantic ocean and the mediterranean sea. the moroccan coast is a rich fishing ground, and a lot of people make their living from the sea. on shore they use a method called sentul fishing, where weighted nets basically drag fish across the bottom of the sea. some of that fish, the good stuff, anyway, ends up here. the saveur de poisson, or restaurant populare or popeye's. the place has a lot of names, but locals and ex-pats alike who have been coming here for year say it has some of the best tagine in town. mohammed bel hajj, the owner and

head chef is from the nearby mountains and a lot of his stuff and produce from the greens in the mountains. the back room is dedicated to sorting and drying various herbs which he blends into a secret mix that he claims has all sorts of healthful and bonner-inspiring benefits. f every dish i had been told over the year would make me strong worked, i would have a permanent pup tent going on down there, so i take all of that with a grain of salt. >> hello. how are you? >> hajj's son hasan delivers the food. >> olives. >> it all starts with fresh olives. they are in season now and roasted walnuts, some warm, very good bread. squishy. >> juice. >> oh, yeah, and you get this stuff. everybody gets it. al pulpy puree of figs, raisins, viau bris and full of mohammed's potent herbs and spices, of course. >> all night, it cooks.

>> yeah, yeah, i get it. it's supposed to make me more manly. you know what? i'm eating. let's not talk about that, okay, sunshine. what is a tagine, anyway, a traditional moroccan stew that can include meat, vegetables or ship. tonight, baby shark, calamari and monkfish, smoked in the classic clay pot that give it its name. the pot is supposed to force the condensation back into the dish and make it moist and tender. it's delicious, with the green and aromatics, i have no idea what they are. i've never had anything like that. the tangier version of farm to table. >> hi. >> what is that? thank you. and a whole turbo, brushed with olive oil, salt and pepper and some coriander, then grilled perfectly over the coals. cuddled up next to the fish,

tiny shark kabobs. cute. wow, spectacular. all of this for 20 bucks? good value. i thought we did a pretty good job on mr. fish. that will teach you. >> he's freaking me out. it's like that guy, you know, you're tripping, and he does like this to you. for dessert, strawberries, pine nuts and honey. like the whole meal, it's eccentric and delicious. thank you. >> you're welcome. >> i haven't had so much fruits and nuts since altaban. i told, mick, this is a bad

crowd. back of the shop, but he's like, man, we can't disappoint the fans. ah, memories. girl vo: i'm pretty conservative. very logical thinker. (laughs) i'm telling you right now, the girl back at home would absolutely not have taken a zip line in the jungle. (screams) i'm really glad that girl stayed at home. vo: expedia helps 30 million travelers a month find what they're looking for. one traveler at a time. expedia. find yours. to fly home for the big family reunion. you must be garth's father? hello. mother. mother!

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in tangier, i lived in one room in the native quarter. i have not taken a bath in a year nor changed my clothes or removed them, except to stick a needle every hour in the fibrous gray wooden flesh of term until addiction. i never cleaned or dusted the room. empty ampoule boxes and garbage piled up to the ceiling. life and water long since turned off for nonpayment.

i did absolutely nothing. i could look at the end of my shoes for eight hours. i was only roused to action when the hourglass of junk ran out. the words of william seward burroughs, one of my heroes. he came to tangier in 1953, shortly after shooting his wife to death in a drunken accident in mexico city. he was a heroin addict, a homosexual and an inspiration to those who became known as the beat. william burroughs was not a beatnik. he was a somewhat stuffy, well-dressed st. louis son of a good family gone wrong. he was also to my mind the greatest writer of the whole damn bunch. on the road, you can have it. his classic "naked lunch" was written here.

a nonlinear, dark, dry humored seeringly critical and satirical and profane masterpiece. burroughs was apparently high for much of the process, on heroin or on a locally valuable opiate and the daily staple in many of those parts, hashish. hashish is the concentrated thc resin of the cannabis plant as well as the leaves and flowers that have been separated from the buds and compressed into sheet or brick-like form. keif, a more local and indigenous product, is part of the plant containing only strongest concentration of psychoactive ingredients. majune is a confection made from keef, fruits, nuts, chocolate and honey. i was, of course, fascinated by this product since reading about it and inquired of some local contacts, who shall necessarily

go unnamed. how is it made? this is what i wanted to know. they were kind enough to demonstrate. keif is first chopped into fine granules and slowly added to butter and chocolate over a low heat to toast it and release the psychotropic goodies within. while the binder element of the majune is slow cooking in the pan, combinations of spices are blended with cashews, almonds, walnuts and dried fruit. this will be the framework to suspend the thc-laden goodness in the next step. the cannabis-laced butter chocolate is added along with plenty of honey to bind together all of the ingredients. then mix.

last, you roll the entirety of the mixture into a ball and either refrigerate or dig right in. of course, network standar practices prohibit me from even tasting this delicious and reportedly mind-altering treat. i'm guessing, anyway. so until i see chris, john and wolf doing bong riffs in "the situation room," i will abide by these rules, because that's the kind of guy i am. there's one particular cafe in the heart of the kasbah that's drawn in foreign dignitaries, rock stars, aristocrats and artists since it opened its doors in 1943. cafe baba. sweet mint tea in a thick slow-moving haze of smoke. it smells like my dorm room 1972. good evening, hello.

>> i am george. >> this is george bajalia and zaneb, and i should say i have no direct knowledge of either george or zaneb smoking any illegal substances or nor do i have any recollection of me doing anything untoward in their presence. that would be, like, wrong, dude. others in the room, however, well, don't give me that innocent look, you young punks. i know somebody in here is smoking reefer. how stoned are people here? >> we can ask, just ask. >> you're not getting totally ripped here? >> no. it's a functional part of daily life. for a long time, the rest of the country and the government didn't really like tangier a it was seedy. there were foreigners that came here and -- >> he likes.

>> it makes money. >> he sees it as a future economic economy. condos, boutique hotels. is that good or bad? >> for moroccans, it's work, but of course ex-pats want to keep tangier like they know it before. >> i mean, this cafe is very similar to the way it was, but there's a tv right there. >> flat screen. >> that's why people come here. they come to watch soccer games. >> you can well imagine the american guy who's lived in tangier for 30 years, right? he comes in and there's a flat screen tv on the wall, he's like -- what? you've ruined the authenticity and the integrity, but the moroccan guy at the next table is like, wait a minute, asshole, you have a flat screen at home. i want one, too. what is wrong with that? >> there are people here that probably never heard of this. but if you follow that, there's no progression, there's no progress. there's no change. >> the think about cafe baba,

just sitting here, taking in the atmosphere, you begin to appreciate the place. >> there's something different happening here. >> contact high, whoa, i'm hungry. wait until the spanish tortilla dude across the street opens for business. >> this is abdelileh. he specializes in one thing, and he makes it well, an omelette. it's like a spanish tortilla. but stonier. the potatoes are boiled, diced, meat with beaten eggs and cooked in a cast iron skillet. oh, yeah, the eggs. the egg man. i am me, we are you, and where is my omelette, dude, because i am hungry. >> one, two, three? >> abdelileh is waiting for you right when you come stumbling out of cafe back ba. coincidence or not?

you be the judge. >> ketchup and mayonnaise. everything. >> sure, why not. condiment options, i would be hard pressed to turn down at this precise moment anyway. i love mayonnaise. >> dude, that's awesome. i'll have 12 more. are you still sleeping? just wanted to check and make sure that we were on schedule. the first technology of its kind... mom and dad, i have great news. is now providing answers families need. siemens. answers.

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paul vols lived in tangier for 50 years, and sherry nutting was part of his inner circle. she was his friend, record keeper of sorts, and photographer. you arrived when? >> i came in the '70s, but went down to marrakesh. in '86, i wrote a letter and said i had to meet him and take his picture. he wrote back and said, come and visit. well, i never left. >> a lot of people came here to live that dream, that life. has the reality come to resemble his perception of the reality? >> the tangier i say is paul bowles. i still see it. i still feel it. you can still find the magic. >> the market or souk in tangier is one of the best in morocco. the food stalls or vendors are still pretty impressive. wander the markets long enough and you're sure to stumble across the unexpected. whose? sure. how about a lancet? here nothing goes to waste.

charbroiled to crispy burnt perfection it's served on a crunchy lunch bread. the grand soko's indoor market offers a variety of smoked, cured and fresh meat. smells good in here. the stuff looks good. i've heard this cheese is amazing. >> it's good. >> could i have one? >> a berber favorite, fresh goat cheese wrapped in palm leaves. >> yeah, they're beautiful, aren't they? >> it's good. [ speaking foreign language ] >> a little cheese, a little flatbread, the perfect moroccan breakfast to go. we're headed to the jabal foothills of the mountain range, about 80 kilometers southeast of tangier to a place called jaj 0 ka. the village is home to the people of the al sharrif tribe, which loosely translated means the saintly people.

jajouka is also home to one of morocco's better-known musicians, bashir attar. jazz and rock 'n' roll musicians have traveled from all over the world to meet this guy. he's from a lineage of master musicians, all from this small mountain village. ♪ >> famously dubbed as a 4,000-year-old rock band, bashir, his son and these musicians maintain one of the oldest still living musical traditions on earth. ♪ we're invited for dinner. it's family style, of course, beginning with braywine, like a

kefta pocket, hand formed envelopes of dough seasoned with beef, baked until golden and then crisped in oil. i'm good for now. well, one more. uh-oh, here we go. the main event, tagine of chicken. >> welcome, tony. >> thank you. just gorgeous. first, chopped onions, garlic, parsley and turmeric are blended with olive oil. the bird is generously coated and stuffed, and after simmering in a touch water and oil, the chicken ask fried until crispy, served with roasted almonds, paprika and ginger. nice.

>> he smells the food. >> like anywhere in the arab world, eating with your hands, also the right one, is proper dining etiquette. >> this is spinach. >> it's wild spinach. it grows in the mountains? >> yeah. >> vocalized chopped mountain spinach. garlic, cilantro, hot and black peppers finished with lemon and olive oil. that's delicious. >> i heard you have the greatest taste for food in the world, man. >> i love good food. this is good. >> yeah. >> after dinner some fruit, some mint tea, and let the music begin. ♪ for centuries, the master musicians of jajouka have been the musical choice of the royal families of morocco, excused by the country's rulers from manual labor to devote themselves to musical training. ♪

♪ the powerful style of sufi transmusic has inspired many music seekers, including most notably perhaps paul bowles who wrote about them and recorded them and spread the word. ♪ brian jones was here and recorded "the pipes of pan at jajouka" with these musicians. snoed snoed ♪ the word spread, and the master musicians have ended up being

featured on albums by macy parker and the rolling stones. ♪ for years, if you were a rock god, you had to come here, dig the crazy percussion, strings and pipes that took you to another place. ♪ it's intricate, hypnotic, beautiful. if you're in the right frame of mind, mesmerizing. the new buff. where new york state is investing one billion dollars to attract and grow business. where companies like geico are investing in technology & finance. welcome to the state where cutting taxes for business... is our business. welcome to the new buffalo. welcome to the new buffalo. welcome to the new buffalo. new york state is throwing out the old rule book to give your business a new edge, the edge you can only get in new york state.

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...and we inspected his brakes for free. -free is good. -free is very good. [ male announcer ] now get 50% off brake pads and shoes at meineke. anyone who comes to tangier inevitably ends up lost in the old part of the city. the medina is just what you want it to be. the ancient world residing next to and around the new one. you can walk around inside the movie in your head, play the bogie character you never were, all against an all too willing, all too genuine backdrop.

ordinarily just about the last thing in the world i would be interested in doing is antiquing, but buried in the network of twisting narrow streets of the old city is boutique majid, and he's one interesting guy. >> come in. >> pack in the '60s, majid left his hometown and came here, emptying ashtrays at the wild parties. he saw what people would buy for themselves, how they decorate their homes. he started to look around for himself, scoring, then reselling art and antiques. it became something of an obsession. now his artifacts from morocco and all across northern africa are bought by collectors from all over the world. carpets, antiques, wood car vipgs, jewelry and old doors. wow, these are incredibly

beautiful. tell me about that. >> amber, coral, shells. these used to be currency. >> how old is this? >> early '20s. the amber is millions of years orlando. >> how much are you selling it for? >> by weight. it's quite heavy, 249 grams, so it comes like 42,000 -- >> so that's how much in dollars? >> almost $5,000. >> about $5,000. >> almost. >> should we look at another floor? >> oh, yes, follow me. there's a nice collection of things from the sahara. >> so you travel a lot? >> not like you. >> oh, this is for pounding -- >> yes, this is from the gon tribe.

>> how much will this sell for, do you think? >> around $300. >> for this? that's very reasonable. i'll be buying that. that's going to be an old friend. >> also memory of tangier >> a memory of tangier as well. majid suggests lunch at andalous, a locals only place nearby. as a moroccan, so many westerners come here with a romantic notion of tangier that they read about in books. do people have a realistic expectation when they come here? are they looking for morocco or this phantasm? >> it is a phantasm. it is when you get here, you know morocco, you feel that you are in morocco, but you're not. there's a lot of mediterranean attached to this town. also the history, people hear about tangier -- when i first came in the '60s, everybody said to me you came late. tangier war. >> right. >> now i'm saying the samed

thing, they come and they say, wow, and i say -- >> what was better about those days? >> well, for me at that time i was young, and it was the boom of hippies, and it was a destination, you know, cafe baba, meet bob dylan, and the parties were going on. i miss these kind of parties. people would fly from everywhere to the party, and they make the whole town move. blue and white party, white and gold party, hat party, you know, it's amazing. you see people coming in with amazing hats, like a cage with a bird, extravagant hats, you know. they put so much energy and time into the parties, you know? look at -- >> now, that looks good. >> tomatoes brushed with local olive oil, garlic and coriander. liver kabobs, beef lever to be exact, grilled over charcoal.

>> that looks very nice. >> for fish, a bit of swordfish and orange ruffy. >> that is just beautiful. >> how do you like the tomato? >> the swordfish is amazing. so how else have things changed? >> you saw how many tourists there was today? >> they were in a hurry. >> if they come to the shop, they even try to avoid the eye contact. if you get my eye contact, i'm going to rip you off or -- >> or make you buy something you don't want? >> i don't know. >> do they buy? >> they don't even say hello. >> they don't buy. >> of course, we call them penguins. they have short hands that don't get into the pockets. i'm just kidding. in a three-hundred-ton rocket doesn't raise as much as an eyebrow for these veterans of the sky.

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♪ when tangier was interzone back in the day, it seemed to some i'm sure as if the ex-pats

outnumbered the locals. that was never true, but you certainly could life a life apart, make your own world within the existing one, reinvent yourself and live entirely within a universe of your own creation. far from the grand soko is a 14-acre estate owned by christopher gibbs, a well-known dealer of antiques and longtime ex-pat. today he's having a garden party. when's coming? jonathan, you know. maggie dean is from scotland. she's been living here for more than a decade. g.p. du richment, a frenchman who has had a hand on a lot of businesses, including a cafe in the kasbah. this american, she's been here forever, led many lives, i gather, and occasionally translates books from magrabi to

english, and the derrick and mistier use baron, an artist from chile, who's been living and working in the kasbah since a hasty exit from puerto rico for reasons never fully explained. on the menu, bastilla, a meat or often pigeon pie as traditional moroccan as it gets. today made by gibbs' full-time cooks. jamilla and fatima. it's chicken slow-cooked, pulled or shredded and folded into an eggs mixture and cooked in reduced stock from the pot. this is layered with blanched almonds, powdered sugar and cinnamon. the whole lot is wrapped in a crepe-like dough. after baking to a golden

crispiness, the final touch is a dusting of even more cinnamon and sugar. it has a sweet savory thing going on, and it's quite tasty. >> if you get nervous when you go in a room and you tough the light switch and the lights don't come on, you shouldn't be in this country. >> what was that first moment when you said i could live here? >> i'm still quite unsure about that. i came here first in 1958. when it was quite different. everyone wore native dress, but islam is still the throbbing motor of life here. i have a very tender feelings for morocco and the friendliness and courtesy of the people and its children who, you know. not like in england. bonjour, monsieur. >> i always feel welcome here. i never consider that this is mine. it's theirs, and they have allowed me to live here in a very nice way, and i feel recognition. they know who i am.

they know who i am. >> there is a side-by-side aspect to life here that's very unusual. >> very unusual here. it's mostly you can do whatever you want if you do it with good mappers. >> but it is a sort of a station of the cross for, you know, bad boys of cultures. >> rambo, iggy pop, the stones, guyson and burr 0 ghs writes about if. >> he was a jointer before he was a writer. >> as so many of us were. >> this is a place if you wanted to think of yourself as a writer, you would come here and somehow you were working with the romantic tradition. >> yes. >> burroughs said up front, to me a writer was someone who lounged around in a smoking jacket and caftan smoking a hash pipe or opiate pipe in a house littered with sleeping boys. >> or girls. >> to what extent did that world exist, and to what extent was that world created by the people who showed up with that

expectation? >> since bill departed, dear, wonderful, marvelous man, said it will be tame now, it's changed. he was genteel. >> he was the very opposite of genteel. he was an outlaw. >> my husband knew him very well, and he was selling the yes bill and he said i cured him of being a drug addict. i said how? he said i turned him into an alcoholic. >> who smokes hashish at this table, please raise your hand. >> is the camera on. ♪ right. but the most important feature of all is... the capital one purchase eraser. i can redeem the double miles i earned with my venture card to erase recent travel purchases. and with a few clicks, this mission never happened. uh, what's this button do?

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♪ . it's nye last night in tang yes, and i'm headed out.

>> is that a good one? >> thank you, yes. >> most cities in the islamic world getting a beer can be difficult. not here. as long as you're outside the medina, nearly anything goes. tangier reverts to its libertine past. here, western influences become very apparent. ♪ ♪ any night of the week is a good night for young moroccans to take to the streets of the ville nouveau. this man is from a generation of moroccans far removed from the rome stick receipts of the bowles/burroughs era. he's invited me out for a snack, spanish-style sandwiches with tuna, hard cooked eggs and a healthy wad of mayo, a crispy

layer of french fries within the sandwich. this is delicious, by the way. the bread here is very good. you work in mag scene journalist? >> i'm not a journalist, but i own an urban magazine here in tangier. to inform moroccans we're living in a place that's pretty special, not for any purpose that william burroughs or paul bowles or matisse, this city has something different from many other cities. >> what about young artists, young writers, young musicians, did they come here expecting this romantic paul bowles wonderland of the 1950s? >> some were, i'm going to say, too bohemian. >> too bohemian? >> yeah, because they thought that like coming and being an artist. >> is going to be enough. >> it's going to be enough. today it's not enough. >> yeah, right. >> it's pretty tough for them, and most of them pack their bags. >> right. >> today we have so many investments going on in tangier

thanks to our king. investors are here, tourists are attracted, but the most important part of it is we should keep the old parts of the city intact. the kasbah, the medina. >> the medina. that's what's hard to do because when you have european purchasing power coming over here to tangier. >> they come, well, like we come. we embrace it. other people want to come, and then we come out. well tangier's unique character survive? >> i hope so. ♪ i really hope so. >> tangier is morocco. always was morocco. and recently the country's leadership seems to very many

braced it in all its ill-reputed glory. the days of predatory poets in search of literary inspiration and young flesh are probably over for good. hippies can just as easily get their bond rips at portland or peoria. but the good stuff, the real good stuff, the sounds and smells and the look of tangier, what you see and hear when you lean out the window and take it all in, that's here to stay.

for most of my life libya was a word with bad associations. libya meant gadhafi. libya meant terrorism. >> pan am flight 103 went down in a blazing fireball. >> libya, a bad place where a comical dictator was the absolute power. nobody in libya, however, was laughing. >> reports of explosions. >> clashes between rioters and security forces. >> in 2011, what was previously unthinkable happened.