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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  May 19, 2013 11:00pm-12:01am PDT

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i've always wanted to get as far away as possible from the place where i was born. far both geographically and spiritually, to leave it behind.
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♪ ♪ i took a wall ♪ through this beautiful world ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ perhaps something good ♪ in this beautiful world ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ tangier, it's morocco. but from 1923 through 1956, it
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was loosely governed by the major powers, an international zone. for years, it seemed, everything was permitted, nothing was forbidden. at the northern tip of africa, a short ferry hop from spain, tangier was a magnet for writers, spies, and artists. if you were a bad boy of your time, you liked drugs, the kind of sex that was frowned upon at home and an affordable lifestyle set against an exotic background, tangier was for you. matisse, genest, william burroughs, many have come this way, staying a while or hanging around, but no one stayed longer or became more associated with tangier than the novelist and composer paul bowles. in works like "the sheltering
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sky" he created a romantic vision that persists today, a dream that's become almost inseparable in the minds of many from reality. i'm here to find that dream city. the place burroughs referred to as interzone. tangier like i said was a city of ex-pats -- people with pasts, people who simply didn't like where they were and craved somewhere and something else. the grand socco is the gateway to the medina where you could find the cass, which means
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fortress, by the way. the port is to the east, and right in the middle of it all, the petit socco, called the last stop, the meeting place, the switchboard of tangier. reasons for settling in tangier diverge, but everyone sooner or later, since the beginning of memory comes to cafe tingis. jonathan dawson came to this city 20 years ago as a journalist and never left. he lives a live not too distant from burroughs' fantasy. taking tea every day at 4:00 served by his manservant. he may not have a gazelle, but a pet rooster will do. he makes the rounds every day, seeing the old faces, ending up sooner or later here. >> this is the petit socco? >> yes.
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it existed in venetian times, roman times, in the portuguese times, the english were here for 22 years, then the international city until 1956, now here. very historic square. very historic. >> as a writer, i've noticed everyone who comes here to do the article does the same article. >> so damn boring. they're all the beat generation and there are lots of other stories in morocco apart from that. beats, bill burroughs, tennessee williams, they were all here, but that's a small part of moroccan history. that's a 15-year page. there was a life before that and a life after that. you're here. >> yeah. it was inevitable. let's pretend those guys never came. what is this place? >> the reality is, you can read the story and live it.
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people do come here and try to live it, but they don't stay very long. they smoke a little dope, go to a cheap hotel and go home with bedbugs. >> and a great story. >> and a great story. >> the attitude here is different than other parts of morocco. they have a higher tolerance of tradition of bad or outrageous behavior. >> they have a high tolerance of mad people, you know? but moroccans essentially are very tolerant people. they quite like madness as well. they celebrate that a well. >> how moroccan is tangier. >> it's a moroccan city with a european outlook. you can see spain and gibraltar, you see all sorts of people passing through. but it's a very moroccan city. i'm 62 years old. i didn't know international days which finished in 1956, but at that time i think europeans may have outnumbered moroccans in the center of this city. not the case now, there's very few europeans actually living here full time. >> the notion of living a life apart, of being somewhere else, there are those who like that
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feeling. i like that feeling. then there are those who may live apart, may live somewhere else, but they're not entirely comfortable. it's the difference annoys them or is a burden. >> it did, and it frustrates them. some people have to leave home to find their home. i'm one of those people. whereas i didn't feel at home in the country i was born in at all. but here i feel okay. i feel very, very happy here. >> there is indeed something special about this place. burroughs described it as a maze of sunless twisting streets filled with blind alleys. its smell was particularly notable to him, including a mix of hashish, seared meat, and sewage. tangier before anything else is
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essentially a port city, with all the things that traditionally come with port cities. it's situated at the choke point between the atlantic ocean and the mediterranean sea. the moroccan coast is a rich fishing ground, and a lot of people make their living from the sea. on shore they use a method called sentul fishing, where weighted nets basically drag fish across the bottom of the sea. some of that fish, the good stuff, anyway, ends up here. the saveur de poisson, or restaurant populare or popeye's. the place has a lot of names, but locals and ex-pats alike coming here for years say it's got some of the best tagine in town. the owner and head chef is from the nearby riff mountains and sources a lot of his stuff, produce and greens from there
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and he's real proud of them. the backroom of the place is dedicated to serving and drying various herbs he blends into a certain mix he claims has all sorts of healthful and bonner-inspiring benefits. if every dish i told would make me strong, i would have a permanent pup tent going on down there, so i take all of that with a grain of salt. his son delivers the food. it all starts with fresh olives, and warm, very good bread. and you get this stuff. everybody gets it. a pulpy puree of figs, raisins, strawberries and full of mohammed's potent herbs and spices. of course. >> all night, it cooks. >> yeah yeah, i get it.
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it's supposed to make me more manly. you know what? i'm eating. let's talk about that, sunshine. is that good? ine is an original stew, that can include meat, vegetables or ship. tonight, baby shark, calamari and monkfish with fresh mountain spinnish, slowly cooked over charcoal in the classic clay top. it's supposed to force the condensation back into the dish and keep it moist and tender. >> that's delicious. the greens and aromatics and herbs, i have no idea what they are. i've never had anything like that. the tangier version of farm to table. what is that? thank you. and a whole turbo, brushed with olive oil, salt and pepper and some coriander, then grilled perfectly over the coals. cuddled up next to the fish, tiny shark kabobs.
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cute. wow, spectacular. all of this for 20 bucks? good value. i thought we did a pretty good job on mr. fish. >> he's freaking me out. it's like that guy with, you know, you're tripping, and does this to you? for dessert, strawberries, pine nuts and honey. like the whole meal, it's eccentric and delicious. thank you. >> you're welcome. >> i haven't had so much fruits and nuts since altaban. i told, mick, this is a bad crowd. back of the shop, but he's like,
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in tangier, i lived in one room in the native quarter. i have not taken a bath in a year nor changed my clothes or removed them, except to stick a needle every hour in the fibrous gray wooden flesh of terminal addiction. i never cleaned or dusted the room. empty ampoule boxes and garbage piled up to the ceiling. life and water long since turned off for nonpayment. i did absolutely nothing. i could look at the end of my shoes for eight hours. i was only roused to action when the hourglass of junk ran out. the words of william seward
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burroughs, one of my heroes. he came to tangier in 1983, shortly after shooting his wife to death in a drunken accident in mexico city. he was a heroin addict, a homosexual and a inspiration to those who became known as the beat. there was nothing beatnik about him. he was a somewhat stuffy, well-dressed st. louis son of a good family gone wrong. he was also to my mind the greatest writer of the whole damn bunch. on the road, you can have it. his classic "naked lunch" was written here. a nonlinear, dark, dry humored searingly critical and satirical and profane masterpiece. burrows was apparently he for much of the process, on heroin, or locally available prescription opiate.
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and the daily staple in many of these parts. hashish. hashish is the concentrated thc rich resin of the cannabis plant as well as varying amounts of its flowers and leaves that have been separated from the buds and compressed into sheet or brick like form. keef a more local and indigenous form is the part of the plant containing only the strongest concentration of psychoactive ingredients. majune is a confection made from keef, fruits, nuts, chocolate and honey. i was, of course, fascinated by this product since reading about it, and inquired of some local contacts, who shall necessarily go unnamed. how is it made? this is what i wanted to know. they were kind enough to demonstrate. it's first chopped into fine
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granules and slowly added to melted butter and chocolate over a low heat to toast it and release the psychotropic goodies win. while the binder element is slow cooking in the pan, spices are blended with cashews, almonds, walnuts and dried fruit. this will be the framework to suspend the thc-laden goodness in the next step. the cannabis-laced butter chocolate is added along with plenty of honey to bind together all of the ingredients. then mix. last, you roll the entirety of the mixture into a ball and either refrigerate or dig right in. of course, network standards and practices prohibit me from even tasting this delicious and
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reportedly mind-altering treat. i'm guessing, anyway. so until i see chris, john and wolf doing bong riffs in "the situation room," i will abide by these rules, because that's the kind of guy i am. there's one particular cafe in the heart of the kasbah that's drawn in foreign dignitaries, rock stars, aristocrats and artists since it opened its doors in 1943. cafe baba. sweet mint tea in a thick slow-moving haze of smoke. it smells like my dorm room 1972. good evening, hello. this is george bajalia, and i >> thank you for having me. >> welcome to cafe baba. >> i should say right now i have no direct knowledge of either george nor zaneb smoking any illegal substances or do i have any recollection of me doing
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anything untoward in their presence. that would be, like, wrong, dude. george is here on a scholarship. she is an artist. others in the room, however, well, don't give me that innocent look, you young punks. i know somebody in here is smoking reefer. how stoned are people here? >> we can ask, just ask. >> you're not getting totally ripped here? >> no. it's a functional part of daily life. for a long time, the rest of the country and the government didn't really like tangier a whole lot. it was seedy. there were foreigners who came here -- >> the new comers. >> it makes money. >> he sees it as a future economic superpower. he's talking boutique hotels. is that good or bad? >> for moroccans, it's work, but of course ex-pats want to keep
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tangier like they know it before. >> i mean, this cafe is very similar to the way it was, but there's a tv right there. >> flat screen. >> that's why people come here. they come to watch soccer games. >> you can well imagine the american guy who's lived in tangier for 30 years, he comes in, there's a flat screen tv on the wall, he's like -- what? you've ruined the authenticity and the integrity, but the moroccan guy at the next table is like, wait a minute, asshole, you have a flat screen at home. i want one too. what is wrong with that? >> there are people here that probably have never heard of -- >> right. >> if you only follow that, there's no progression, there's no progress, there's no change. >> the think about cafe baba, just sitting here, taking in the atmosphere, you begin to appreciate the place. >> there's something different happening here. >> contact high, whoa, i'm hungry. wait until the spanish tortilla dude across the street opens for business.
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>> this is abdelileh. he specializes in making one thing, and he makes it well. an omelet. it's like a spanish tortilla. but stonier. the potatoes are boiled, diced, meat with beaten eggs and cooked in a cast iron skillet. oh, yeah, eggs. the egg man. i am me, we are you, and where's my omelet dude? because i am hungry. >> one, two, three? >> abdelileh is waiting for you when you come stumbling out of cafe baba. coincidence or not? you be the judge. >> ketchup and mayonnaise. everything. >> ketchup and mayonnaise? sure. why not. condiment options i'll be hard pressed to turn down at this precise moment, anyway. >> that's a lot of mayonnaise.
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paul bowles lived here for over 50 years and sherry nutting was part of his inner circle near the end of his life. she was his friend, record keeper of sorts, and photographer. you arrived when? >> i came in the '70s, but went down to marrakesh. in 86s i wrote a letter to paul bowels and said i had to meet him and take his picture. he wrote back and said, come and visit. well, i never left. >> a lot of people came here to live that dream, that life. has the reality come to resemble his perception of the reality? >> the tangier i say is paul bowles. i still feel it. you can still find the magic. >> the market or souk in tangier is one of the best in all morocco. the food stands and vendors are still pretty impressive. wander the markets long enough and you're sure to stumble across the unexpected. whose? sure. how about a lancette? here nothing goes to waste. char broiled to crispy burnt per
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specs it's served on a crunchy lunch brea. the grant socco's indoor market officers a variety of smoked, cured and fresh meat. smells good in here. the stuff looks good. i've heard this cheese is amazing. >> it's good. yeah. >> could i have one? >> a berber favorite, fresh goat cheese wrapped in palm leaves. >> yeah, they're beautiful, aren't they? >> it's good. [ speaking foreign language ] >> a little cheese, a little flatbread, the perfect moroccan breakfast to go. we're headed to the jabal foothills of the riff mountain range, about 80 kilometers south of tangier, to a place called jajouka. the village is home to the people of the al sharif tribe, which loosely translated means
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the saintly people. jajouka is also home to one of the morocco's better-known musicians, bashir attar. jazz and rock 'n' roll musicians have traveled from all over the world to meet this guy. he's a lineage of master musicians, all from this small mountain village. ♪ famously dubbed as a 4,000-year-old rock band by william burroughs, his son and these musicians maintain one of the oldest still living musical traditions on earth. ♪ we're invited for dinner. it's family style, of course, beginning with braywine, like a
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kefta pocket. hand formed envelopes, seasoned with beef, baked until golden then crisped in oil. i'm good for now -- well, one more. uh-oh here we go. the main event, tagine of chicken. >> welcome, tony. >> thank you. just gorgeous. first, chopped onions, garlic, parsley and turmeric are blended with olive oil. the bird is generously coated an stuffed then after simmering in a touch of olive oil and water, the chicken is fried till crispy. served with roasted almonds and olives, paprika and ginger. nice. >> he smells the food.
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>> like anywhere in the arab world, eating with your hands, also the right one, is proper dining etiquette. >> this is spinach. >> it's wild spinach. it grows in the mountains? >> yeah. >> vocalized chopped mountain spinach. garlic, cilantro, hot and black peppers finished with lemon and olive oil. that's delicious. >> the greatest taste for food in the world, man. >> i love good food. this is good. >> yeah. >> after dinner some fruit, some mint tea, and let the music begin. for centuries, the master musician of jajouka have been the musical choice of the royal families of morocco, excused by the country's rulers from manual
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labor to devote themselves to musical training. ♪ ♪ their powerful style of sufi trans music has inspired many musical seekers including most notably, perhaps, paul bowles, who wrote about them, recorded them and spread the word. brian jones was here and recorded "the pipes of pan at jajouka" with these musicians. the word spread, and the master musicians have ended up being
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...and we inspected his brakes for free. -free is good. -free is very good. [ male announcer ] now get 50% off brake pads and shoes at meineke. anyone who comes to tangier inevitably ends up lost in the old part of the city. the medina is just what you want it to be. the ancient world residing next to and around the new one. you can walk around inside the movie in your head, play the bogie character you never were, all against an all too willing, all too genuine backdrop.
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ordinarily just about the last thing in the world i'd be interested in doing is antiquing, but buried in the network of twisting narrow streets of the old city is this boutique owned and operated and personally cure rated by this man. he is one interesting guy. thank you. when he was a little kid back in the '60s, majid left his hometown and came here, emptying ashtrays at the wild and extravagant parties being thrown her by wealthy ex-pats. he saw what people would buy for themselves, how they decorate their homes. he started to look around for himself, scoring, then reselling art and antiques. wow. it became something of an obsession. now his artifacts from morocco and all across northern africa are bought by collectors from all over the world.
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carpets, antiques, wood carvings, jewelry, and old doors. wow. these are incredibly beautiful. tell me about that. >> amber, coral, shells. these used to be currency. >> how old is this? >> this is early '20s. the amber is millions of years old. >> how much are you selling this piece for? >> by weight. >> by weight? >> yes. quite heavy. this one, 429 grams. so it comes, like, 42,000 -- >> that's how much in dollars? >> like almost $5,000. >> about $5,000. >> almost. >> should we look at another floor? >> oh, yes, follow me. there's a nice collection of things from the sahara. >> so you travel a lot? >> not like you. >> oh, this is for pounding -- >> yes, this is from the gon
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tribe. >> how much will this sell for do you think? >> around $300. >> really? for this? that's very reasonable. i'll be buying that. that's going to be an old friend. >> also memory of tangier as well. majid suggests lunch at andalous, a locals only place nearby. >> as a moroccaner, so many westerners who come to tangier come with a romantic notion of a tangier they read about in books. do people have a realistic expectation? are they looking for morocco or are they looking for this phantasm? >> it is a phantasm. it is when you get here, you know morocco, you feel that you are in morocco, but not. there's a lot of mediterranean attached to this town. also the history, people hear story about tangier. when i first came in the '60s, everybody said, you came late. >> right.
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>> now i'm saying the same thing to these young, they come and, wow, i say -- >> what was better about those days? >> well, for me at that time i was young, and it was the boom of hippies, and it was a destination, you know, cafe baba, meet bob dylan, and the parties were going on. i miss these kind of parties. people would fly from everywhere to the party, and they make the whole town move. blue and white party, white and gold party, hat party, you know, it's amazing. you see people coming in with amazing hats, like a cage with a bird, extravagant hats, you know. they put so much energy and time into the parties, you know? look at -- >> now, that looks good. >> tomatoes brushed with local olive oil, garlic and coriander. liver kabobs, beef liver to be exact.
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grilled over charcoal. >> that looks very nice. >> for fish, a bit of swordfish and orange roughy. >> that is just beautiful. >> how do you like the tomato? >> the swordfish is amazing. so how else have things changed? >> you saw how many tourists there was today? >> they were in a hurry. >> if they come to the shop, they even try to avoid your eye contact. they're afraid if you get my eye contact, i'm going to rip you off. >> or make you buy something. >> i don't know. >> do they buy? >> they don't even say hello. >> they don't buy? >> of course. we call them -- they have short hands that don't get into the pockets. no, i'm just kidding. i want to make things more secure. [ whirring ] [ dog barks ] i want to treat more dogs.
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when tangier was interzone back in the day, it seemed to some i'm sure as if the ex-pats outnumbered the locals. that was never true. but you certainly could live a life apart. make your own world within the existing one. reinvent yourself and live entirely in a universe of your own creation. far from the grand socco is a 14-acre estate owned by christopher gibbs, a well-known dealer of antiques and longtime ex-pat. today he's having a garden party. who's coming? jonathan, you know. maggie dean is from scotland. she's been living here for more than a decade.
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g.p., a trench frenchman who has his hands on a lot of businesses including a cafe in the casbah. an american, she's been here forever, led many lives, i gather, and occasionally translates books to english. and the dashing mysterious baron, an artist from chile who's been living and working in the casbah since an exit from puerto rico for reasons never fully explained. on the menu, bastilla, a meat or often pigeon pie as traditional moroccan as it gets. today made by gibbs' full-time cooks. jamilla and fattima. it's chicken slow cooked in broth and spices, pulled and shredded and cooked in a reduced stock from the oil.
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this is folded with cinnamon then the whole lot is wrapped in a crepe-like dough. after baking to a golden crispiness, the final touches of dusting of even more cinnamon and sugar. it's got a sweet, savory thing going on. and it's quite tasty. >> if you get nervous when you go in a room and you touch the light switch and the lights don't come on, you shouldn't be in this country. >> what was that first moment when you said i could live here? >> i'm still quite unsure about that. i came here first in 1958. when it was quite different. everyone wore native dress, but islam still the throbbing motor of life here. i have a very tender feelings for morocco and the friendliness and courtesy of the people and the children. they don't say granddad like
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they do in england. they say -- [ speaking foreign language ] >> i always feel welcome here. i never consider this is mine. it's theirs and they've allowed me to live here in a very nice way and i feel recognition. they know who i am. they know who i am. >> there is a side by side aspect to life here that's very unusual. >> very unusual here. mostly you can do whatever you want if you do it with good manners. >> it is a sort of a station of the cross, you know, bad boys of culture. i mean, rambo, the stones. burroughs writes about it. he came here to be a writer. this is a place if you want to think of yourself as a writer you'd come here, you'd somehow, work in a romantic tradition. to me, a writer was a guy who lounged around in a smoking jacket, smoking a hash pipe or
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opium pipe in a beautifully anointed house littered with sleeping boys. >> or girls. >> to what extent did that world exist? to what extent was the world created with people who showed up with that expectation? >> since bill departed, dear, wonderful, marvelous man, since he's gone, it's a little bit tame now. >> it is tame. >> he was -- >> gentile now. >> he was the very opposition of gentile. he was an outlaw. >> my husband knew him very well and was selling the yes bill. he said i cured him of being a drug addict. i said, how? he said, i turned him into an alcoholic. >> who smokes hashish at this table? please raise your hand. >> put your hand up. it's my last night in tangier, and i'm heading out.
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it's my last night in tangier, and i'm heading out.
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most cities in the islamic world, getting a beer can be difficult. not here. as long as you're outside the medina, nearly anything goes. tangier reverts to its past. here western influences become very apparent. ♪ >> any night of the week is a good night for young moroccans to take to the streets. he is from a generation of moroccoans far removed from the bowles/burroughs era. he invited me out for a casual snack. spanish-style sandwiches with tuna, veggies, hard cooked eggs
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and a wad of mayo. a crispy layer of french fries within the sandwich. this is delicious, by the way. the bread here is very good. you work in magazine, journalist? >> i'm not a journalist but own an urban magazine in tangier to inform moroccans we're living in a place that's pretty special. the city has something that makes it different from other cities. >> what about young artists, young writers, young musicians? did they come here expecting this romantic paul bowles wonderland of the '50s? >> some were too bohemian. >> too bohemian? >> yeah. they thought, you know, coming and being an artist -- >> is going to be enough? >> is going to be enough. today is not enough. it's pretty tough for them. and most of them pack their
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bags. >> right. >> today we have so many investments going on in tangier. thanks to our king, investors are here. being attracted. tourists are attracted. but the most important part of it is we should keep the old parts of the city in tact. the medina. >> the medina. >> that's what's hard to do. when you have european purchasing power coming over here to tangier -- >> they come like we come. we embrace it. other people want to come. then we fall out. will tangier's unique character survive? >> i hope so. i really hope so. >> tangier is morocco. always was morocco. recently the country's >> tangier is morocco. always was morocco. recently the country's leadership seems to have
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embraced it, in all its ill-reputed glory. the days of predatory poets in search of literary inspiration and young flesh are probably over for good. hippies can just as easily get their -- in portland and peoria. the real good stuff of tangier, what you see and hear when you lean out the window and take it all in, that's here to stay.
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for most of my life libya was a word with bad associations. libya meant gadhafi. libya meant terrorism. >> pan am flight 103 went down in a blazing fireball. >> libya, a bad place where a comical dictator was the absolute power. nobody in libya, however, was laughing. >> reports of explosions. >> clashes between rioters and security forces. >> in 2011, what was previously unthinkable happened. the libyan people rose up and fought for their freedom. >> heavy battles raging around the libyan capital.

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