smarter about that now than when i first came to k-town in the middle of the night to discover a strange and fabulous and delicious slice of america i had never known was there, but i'm trying to figure it out. this is a good place to both experience fantasy and reality. ♪ the air, explosives and food? you can't beat that. ♪ muy gracias. you just stand here in the

street, and random strangers bring you delicious foods. it's a great country. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ looking good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ ♪ colombia, ordinarily and for all too many years, when this

country makes the news or appears in a film or television drama, it's not for its looks -- which are, i should say right up front, spectacular. it's not for its people who are, everyone i've ever met anyway, warm, proud, generous and fun, or for its food which is truly great. i don't know what this is, but it's good. food in this country is excellent. ♪ i'm no stranger to this place. generally speaking, it's a particularly vibrant mix of spanish, european, afro-caribbean, and indigenous people. these are deep waters, my friend that no news story or episode of "miami vice" has ever come close to navigating. it is and always has been a fiercely, fiercely proud country, and its people yearn to see international coverage of

something other than cocaine and violence, but that isn't a legacy that's easy to ignore. its decades of civil unrest have left vast swaths of colombia relatively unknown, even to its own citizens. to reach a place previously considered a no-go area, i'll fly out of an airport of in villavicencio, 45 miles southeast of the capital of bogota. on first inspection, this is an airplane bone yard. where unwanted props from "romancing the stone" corrode artfully. but in reality, this sleepy hangar is an important gateway to the more impenetrable parts of the country. the remote settlements in the amazon basin are cut off from the country, with neither rail nor roads connecting them. there are only two ways in, either boat for several days downriver, or aboard a jungle

bus, which is what locals call the world war ii era dc-3. i've flown worse. i've been brought here by pablo i've been brought mere by pablo mora, a teacher at medellin university and a particular enthusiast for this golden class of aviation. you have taken this flight before? >> yes. every time i have a chance i come here and fly one. it's a romantic thing. >> he sees the work these hulking great airships and their pilots do, as dare testify humanitarian missions for the more re-month-old motor colombians. they have an in-flight movie? >> no, nor first class either. >> what? >> no, no. >> the planes travel with their own mechanic to cobble together anything that might go wrong. and stuff can go wrong.

the risk is that we'll be able to land but not take off again, so this guy is our return ticket out of the jungle. ♪ our captain is joaquin san clemente, something of a legend in these parts, and his copilot is captain costanza reyes. >> it's mystical. they develop this sensibility with the plane. there's no intel in sight here, no software. they have gps, but that's about it. it's beautiful, you know, they have to sense everything. they know when the sound of the plane is not right. it's just man and machine. >> the weather is the big unknown around here. it's changeable enough to ground planes in remote places if they hang around for too long.

we have to make one stop on the way to pick up more cargo. vital cargo, by the way. ♪ >> the land we're passing over is beautiful and lush, but the life of those below has been anything but. >> colombia seems to be trapped in a vicious circle. farc has used this territory as a haven for kidnapping and -- >> until recently most of the news coming out of this part of colombia was not good. it was a front line in the war on drugs, for lack of a better

term, and colombia's long struggle with the farc, a marxist guerrilla force financed by drug trafficking, kidnapping and covert assistance from venezuela. 50 years of very dirty war. the stakes not about drugs per se, but about the ability of ordinary colombians to live without fear. we land in the jungle outpost of miraflores in the southern province in the amazonian forest reserve. the heavy presence of army and special police is a result of its strategic location and recent history as a one-time center of coca production. farmers here would grow the stuff and make the leaves into paste. traffickers would come and buy it. the farc had this area under its sphere of influence for years. nine years ago, the government moved to expel the farc, the

traffickers and any paramilitaries, with apparently much success. overnight, however, its population shrank by 85%. what remains struggles to survive. the people here you're telling me, they were born here? >> most of the people came from elsewhere. in the beginning in the 1950s and '60s, they were -- they were escaping from the violence, from the political violence between the two parties in colombia. >> so if you were having problems in the city or wherever you were from, you came out here? >> yeah. >> so what did you do for a living out here? >> cattle and some agriculture, and after that the drug trade began and everything with the coca plantations. >> the climate is good for it? >> yeah, very good.

since 1999, there were no police or army force here, so it was just occupied by the farc. and then by the farmers who tried to -- but that's when the real violence began. >> so really the problems in this country pre-existed the drug trade? >> what we say here is the drug trade just made everything more. there's no judge here. there's few institutions here. >> right. >> basically you know the state is here just because the army is here. so i think you're going to meet the major. >> oh, yeah. >> anthony, this is the major. >> julio cesar gonzalez is the current mayor of milaflores, which has seen much better and much worse days. how many people live in this town? >> around 1,500 to 2,000 in the municipality. the farc were here for 20 years, and they were the central authority here.

>> you're growing plantains and not much else. not even particularly well, not particularly happy with the government, somebody comes along and offers you a nice machine gun and a cool scarf, especially if you're 15, 16 years old. >> yeah. >> that's a pretty attractive option. >> of course, it is. >> even if they say you probably will be dead by the time you're 25. >> it is, and they offer you a salary. >> what is the future of this town? [ speaking foreign language ] >> they're providing free education, and there's a lot of potential in biodiversity and eco-tourism as well. >> what other people say is, without the customer, there's no cocaine trade, and there's no violence, right? so if the united states and europe stopped buying cocaine? >> it's so impossible. i can't think about it, if the

situation where the demand is not going to be there. >> but demand in the states is down 40%. >> as long as there's a market, there will be people ready to do it. >> the united states spends how many billions of dollars a year paying for guns and uniforms, training, et cetera. where should they be spending it? >> i would say the health is very important, but more important is to end the war on drugs. it just doesn't work. >> here's my problem. if crack didn't exist, i would have no -- i would absolutely agree with you, but as a former coke addict and as a former crackhead, you know, that is a problem. >> the thing is that people think if you think that drugs should be legalized, you're saying they're good. no, we're not saying that. we're just getting rid of one problem. the problem that the major has here. >> you're freeing up a lot of money you could divert? i'm with you, i agree. >> yes, we have two problems. one is drug addiction and the other is drug trafficking. we can get rid of one but we're

not going to deal with the other. we have to deal with it forever. >> it's a beautiful country. the people here are -- from where i've been is nice, even the bad guys are charming. >> that is true. >> the food is delicious. the problem is the united states will never legalize drugs. it will never happen. it's a complicated issue. >> yeah, yeah. >> so the good people of this town could thank us for bringing their fresh supply of coca. >> yeah. yeah. >> cerveza, coca. think nothing of it, gentlemen. it was really our pleasure. are you still sleeping? just wanted to check and make sure that we were on schedule.

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♪ bogata, the country's capital and an almost two-mile-high city with new lofty food ambitions, where previously the restaurant scene didn't really exist. now young restauranteurs such as musician turned chef tomas rueda are beginning to make a name for themselves in colombia.

>> this is one of the biggest markets in bogata. i love this place. it's very beautiful. the colors. my mom comes here to buy flowers, my grandma also. >> did i mention that this city is over 8,000 feet up? hence the altitude sickness i'm feeling. not good. tomas comes here a few times a week for an early breakfast, which i'm hoping will make me feel better. paloquemao market has been in existence in one way or another since the 1940s. >> that place is huge. >> you want some juice? >> yeah. what do you have? >> i love the orange juice with some carrot. >> probably the healthiest thing i've had in a while. >> good for the high altitude.

>> yeah. >> this is better? >> i'm feeling better every hour. >> first hour is killing me. >> but you have a better face. >> i didn't think i was going to make it out of the airport. >> most of the mornings, early in the mornings, 5:00 to 6:00 in the morning, i climb the mountain. >> why? >> fresh air. >> okay. >> you have to come with me. >> hell no! ain't happening. >> you want to taste some arepa? arepa is made with corn. [ speaking foreign language ] it's fantastic, i love it. >> tucked away in a back corner of the fish market is a place that serves breakfast to the market's workers and shoppers. we're talking beef short ribs simmered in an oily broth with potatoes, salt and scallions.

tomas swears by this stuff, a traditional breakfast soup from the andean region. >> okay. gracias. >> would you like chile? >> i do. [ speaking foreign language ] >> now we're talking. >> this is perfect. when you have a good party last night. >> i was just going to say, this is hangover food. >> perfect. >> i know hangover food well, and this is good. there's good meat in there. >> yeah. >> good broth. >> yes. >> the stock is good. what's this dish called? >> beef stock. calde de -- >> rib broth. >> yes, with potatoes, of course. everything with potatoes. [ speaking foreign language ]

>> very good spanish. >> i don't speak spanish. i speak a little mexican. ♪ bogata. back in the '90s, a very dangerous and violent place to be. today, not so much. today in my repeated experiences here, kind of awesome. the candelaria is a recently renovated old city when i meet up with hector abad, one of the distinguished and most supremely talented writers in latin

america. his recent work is about his father, called "oblivion," who was killed for his outspoken attempts to change things for the better. so, first of all, where are we? >> puerta falsa. this is a place where many boegt -- bogotans come to eat something in the middle of the morning. or in the middle of the afternoon. >> the tamales are made with chicken and pork belly combined with vegetables, rice and masa, wrapped in a banana leaf, and slow cooked for hours. this place has been serving chocolate completo to the politicians of the nearby plaza bolivar for a couple hundred years. >> here are the tamales. >> beautiful. it is a thing of beauty, isn't it? >> let's see if it tastes like my mother's. >> oh, well, that's a high standard. >> i suppose it is. >> i was just in milaflores yesterday. what economy there was, was entirely drug-based economy.

now that the drugs are gone, there is no economy. it's a ghost town, a military and people sitting there staring at the space waiting for the beer to arrive. best i can understand. tell me something hopeful. >> i think we are becoming more and more conscious that this past decade of violence has been absolutely useless and that we have to change many, many things >> um-hmm. >> and so -- i think -- it's not as good as my mother's. i'm sorry. >> well, it never is. if you removed cocaine from the equation, removed the drug trade as a financial engine, you would still have serious division over ideology here. is that improving? >> things are changing in a good direction, but very slowly, i think. you know, ten years ago in

medellin they killed 7,500 people every year. three years ago this number came to 700 people killed in medellin every year so the situation has changed. >> right. >> i have only questions, i have no answers. i'm so sorry. if i were the president, i really i -- i don't know what -- >> you wouldn't know what to do? >> no, i wouldn't. >> to suggest that a nation should expand its social services, do its best to lift people out of poverty, to provide medical care for everyone, as you well kn, that may be in the minds of many, as saving the country. are those as potentially dangerous ideas as they used to be? >> well, 25 years ago my father was killed just because he was asking for these basic things

like clean water, a glass of milk, and an arepa for every child. that's -- we still don't have that, and we need that. now we in colombia, maybe we are trying. i think there are some people here even in the government who are working for that. ♪ when our little girl was born,

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♪ bogota is the largest city in colombia and the economic heart of the country.

about a fifth of the population lives here. many of them very well, but some not so well. it's a city with a marked north/south divide. chef tomas rueda's restaurants sit side by side in the macarena neighborhood where the city meets the north. the lunch at tabula is defined by high fundamentals, than high concept theories. if there's a theme here, the that ingredients this good, meticulously prepared, are the essence of great eating. such a beautiful space. so how's the restaurant business in bogota? >> a very good business. a lot of people with money, they don't know how to cook. >> nobody cooks at home.

maybe their cook does. they eat out a lot? >> yeah, a new part of our culture. everybody wants to go to restaurants. >> so 10 years ago, 15 years ago, what? traditional casual food? >> yeah. >> a few fine dining, you know, white tablecloths, serves french, continental or italian? but this is new. >> it's a new business, a new world. there's two great bodies of colombia food, the mixture of the culture, black people, indian people, white people. that mixture is beautiful. the other one is all of this region of the mountains, the valleys, the rain forests, the sea, we are like a big farm, a beautiful farm to send all these products to the world. i believe more in a beautiful carrot than a great recipe, yeah? >> right. >> this is a crab salad.

>> right. >> and this one a pasta. >> thin sheets of handmade pasta are filled with ladna cheese, and finished with a chorizo sauce. >> so you used to be in a band? you used to be a musician? >> yeah, i'm still. >> what happened, man? how did you go from music to restaurants? >> rock and roll doesn't make me money. >> this is good. >> really good. >> it's great that business is good, because generally speaking the only worse idea that i think i'll try to make a living making music is i think i'll make a living by opening a restaurant. i see why that's so popular. good stuff. >> thank you, tony. >> tomas' take on osso bucco uses beef shank instead of veal which is braized over vegetables and perot in a wood-fired oven. whoa, it's huge. oh, yeah. >> you don't need a knife, only

a spoon. >> you're right. >> do you cure this first in salt? >> no. >> dry it? salt it? nothing? >> no. >> just fresh? >> yes. >> delicious. you would never get this off your menu. you'll have to keep it on your menu forever, right? >> forever. the best part. >> mama didn't raise no fool. ♪ juice santiago de cali or just

cali, as everybody calls it in these parts, is a city in the southwest of colombiaion for it proximity to the pacific coast and semi-tropical temperatures, but i'm not really here for the climate. i'm here for tejo. ♪ it involves alcohol and explosives. colombian mario gallino, ex-pat, will holland and their band mates, are to be my guide for this ancient and very traditional colombian sport. how do you play this game? i guess that's how it's done. what do you call this object? >> el tejo. >> hence the name. >> exactly. tejo. >> i should be good at this.

i've been throwing pots into the dish sink from across the room for years. >> you win more point if you get it in the middle without hitting anything. >> oh. but that doesn't sound like any fun. >> everyone has a different style it seems. you have to do like one step and then another and swing. >> i don't think that style is going to work for me. after some early success, it turns out we all pretty much suck at this. not enough beer. that's my problem. time to bring in some outside muscle. >> we're going to mix in now the experts. [ speaking foreign language ] >> who am i with? i'm over here, with these guys. whoa! [ speaking foreign language ]

>> holy crap, two in a row? this is dismaying. no, one of those guys had to be on my team, right? >> the guy in the white striped shirt. his name is el pollo viejo, which is -- >> the old chicken. >> the old chicken, yeah. >> i need a poultry name. he's calling himself the old chicken. i should be the enormous cock! the chicken dude is killing it. every time. ♪ >> must beat chicken. that's what i'm talking about. but i wanted something to blow

up. >> tejo is hungry work, but kitchen here is up to the challenge, making a colombian piccata. this is a huge selection of fried pork, pork rib, steak, casava, potatoes and deep-fried plantain. >> i smell food. oh, thank you. oh, that's good. a beer, explosives and food? can't beat that. yes. nice. yes! ♪ ve a good night. here you go. you, too. i'm going to dream about that steak. i'm going to dream about that tiramisu.

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...and we inspected his brakes for free. -free is good. -free is very good. [ male announcer ] now get 50% off brake pads and shoes at meineke. ♪ if bogota is colombia's financial heart, cali is the shaking hips. people here like their music. ♪ >> my tejo buddies, mario and

will, are the founders of a collective called on the tropica. their idea was to reinterpret the tropical music heritage of colombia. what often sounds like salsa in style is actually cumbia. ♪ >> if there's one type of music that be classified as distinctly colombian, this is t. ♪ cumbia draws on the african, indigenous mix that makes up the country, so will and mario created something a long way from the pop music that's a staple here. they brought together musicians who are with the cumbia scene of the '50s and '60s and matched them up with younger counterparts. ♪ with the impressive amount of fried meat we ate at the tejo

court, we go for dinner at. one of the band's favorite spots. >> the recording we made for three weeks in medellin, had 42 musicians, so it was a big sort of ensemble and had musicians from, i think the youngest was 25 maybe and the oldest was 82. >> old school and new school mix? >> the idea so we can meeting not only doing music, but also exchanging lots of information about how music was made, how music was recorded, what was the spirit of the music. >> so that's the idea, get back to the roots. >> first up, the cali version of ceviche. cooked shrimp lathered in main -- mayonnaise, ketchup and worcestershire sauce. essentially a '70s cocktail sauce.

it's a staple used in everything from tamales to stews. cooked rice, and guancha, not a clam -- >> like a rock mollusk pretty much. >> it's delicious. wow. >> so this is like palau, very pacific pago rojo, red snapper. >> steamed shrimp and nice green tomatoes. find them on the corners everywhere. >> plantain. >> like homemade. >> i'm learning that. >> it's the best way to handle this. >> cane sugar. >> like homemade. >> what are your favorite places in colombia? >> colombia is like five countries in one. when you come to colombia, you

definitely have to go to some pacifico experience, either being cali or go straight to the coast. you have to have an atlantic or caribbean experience, rio ocho. you definitely have to have a montan experience like medlin or bogota, and the other one would be to go to the amazon, like go to the jungle. >> i'm planning a vacation. should i come to colombia? should i come to cali? >> most definitely. you will find great music, great partying, great food, beautiful views, beautiful nature around. >> yeah, yeah, look, the country is beautiful, we know this. but most americans, they're afraid to come. is colombia any more dangerous for a tourist than rio or puerto rico? >> south central? >> i mean, my impression is no. when you go to rio, you don't wear a big watch or an expensive suit. you don't behave like an i had yorkts and life is going to be good.

>> maybe i've been lucky, but i've never been mugged or kidnapped or robbed. most people will tell you we had an amazing time. we heard some great music, met some beautiful girls or guys. we've drank some great drinks, and we just hung out and we went to the beach, and it was great and we want to come back, you know? >> there's a lot of heart here. people feel very deeply about things. it's the most welcoming country in latin america that i've been. >> salud, salud, salud. ♪

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♪ i leave the subtropics for

more extreme climbs. rio hacha is a climate neither of cali on colombia's caribbean sea. la guajira borders the venezuela. it's home to the natives called the wayuu. the wayuu are a tough tribe that's never taken a side with the government, the farc or the paramilitaries. as a result, they remain independent politically and live pretty much by their own code. i'm meeting juan pablo majorca, a he have -- a chef from bogota that comes to this spot regularly. it's a very different part of colombia. >> it's rugged terrain, there's not that much water, so that's part of why the spanish weren't able to colonize it.

>> you've been coming here for some time. >> i became interested, because i began dealing with fresh fish, lobster and shrimp, and for me to take back to bogota. >> is it good? >> it's very good. >> goats are important to the wayuu, they're used for food, bartering, even dowry payments. rancho owners come to the old market in riohacha to sell, slaughter and cook goat in the mornings. today we're having frichi. >> it's a traditional dish from the wayuu. it consists of the heart, the intestines, and the offal. >> of the goat. >> it's fresh. they slaughter back here. this is where the wayuu women cook it. this is fresh and traditional. >> this is breakfast. >> this is breakfast for them. >> the frichi.

>> a little bit of everything in there. >> yes. we have hearts, a bit of meat, of ribs. >> it's interesting, because this one is for breakfast and it's almost done where they are slaughtered. you have to eat this fresh. >> fresh, this is delicious. if not fresh, this would not be so good. >> no. >> this is where i say something that takes us seamlessly from a discussion about fresh meat to me hauling my aging carcass on an atv, sugarbear style. ♪ tribal members of the wayuu have dual citizenship and can cross the border into venezuela to live or trade there whenever they need to. luckily for us, it means that cheap gas is easy to come by in these parts. there are no stations as such.

you just keep an eye out for the cans. >> more so from venezuela. it's extremely cheap. it's like 50 cents a gallon. the government subsidizes a lot of it. they're able to buy venezuelan gasoline and sell legally venezuelan gasoline in colombia. >> having taken on as much gas as can be mouth-siphoned into one sitting, we're off again. let me set the scene. it's hot out here, desert hot. we plan to ride three hours along the coast to our lunch spot, and i ate salty goat innards for breakfast, and i refuse to wear a helmet or sunblock. we avoid wild donkeys and goats, and get lost more than a few

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a momentary concussion is seldom a good thing. waking up in colombia on a beach almost always is. ♪ having abandoned the epic ride, we're back where we started in the guijira at the blue sea restaurant. how come you're all clean? >> i changed. >> you brought a change of clothes? >> yeah. i'm hurting now. i'm feeling every minute, every hour, every month and year of my age. >> so you're ready? >> yes. i trust it will make me feel all

better. >> much better. it's a good end to the day. >> can't ask for better scenery. it's beautiful here. >> a beer. >> i need the anesthetic qualities of the local fire water. that's preely a reprobably a re idea. >> that's going to be a good start for tonight. >> a good start. i'm done. oh, man. that dog has the right idea. see, i'd be very happy if that was me right now. just like laying down in the sand with my chin out like that. man, it's so beautiful here. who comes here? >> basically tourists from colombia and backpackers that are making their way up to the north. >> we saw one tourist all day, and it's nice, really it's completely off the grid. >> this used to be a fisherman village. >> there are definitely worse places to eat seafood than beachside in a fishing village,

and the strength of this area lies in the variety of fish available. >> basically it's like a fish chowder, made with shrimp, clams. >> right. >> a small kind of clam, lobster, fish. >> yeah. >> and conch. >> i need a bath. very clear sky for the caribbean. oh, yeah. oh, man. >> always accompanied by lemon and coconut rice and plantain and some hot sauce in there. ♪ >> some good food, a few shots, the sounds of waves in the background, and a nice sunset. these are things in my experience that will set most things right. thank you to guajira. >> and colombia. >> salud.

>> cheers. >> we had good fun. >> we had good fun. >> cheers. >> i always find colombia encouraging. they face problems more extreme and seemingly more intractable than many of us can imagine, and yet every time i come here it gets better. don't get me wrong. problems, serious problems, remain, which is particularly heartbreaking in a country so beautiful, so generous, so proud, so eager to love and be loved back. i come back to my own country from colombia, and i think if they can fix that, if they can make things better, then surely there's nothing we can't do.

for now, however, i'll settle for fixing my headache. that hurt. [ speaking foreign language ] ♪ ♪ i took a walk