is to go and arrest him and bring him back to justice, prosecute him, and find him guilty. i've always wanted to get as far away as possible from the place that i was born.

far both geographically and spiritually. to leave it behind.

it's morocco but from 1923 to 1926 it was loosely governed an international zone. for years it seemed everything was permitted. nothing was forbidden. at the northern tip of africa, a short hop from spain, it was a magnet for writers, spies and artists. if you were a bad boy of your time, you liked drugs, the kind of sex that was frowned upon at home and an affordable life style set against an exotic background, tangier was for you. many have come this way, staying awhile or hanging around. but no one stayed longer or became more associated with

tangier than the novelist and composure pa composure paul boles. it is a dream that has become almost unseparable in the minds of many from reality. i'm here to find that dream city. the place burroughs referred to as enter zone. tangier like i said was a city of expass. people with pasts. people that simply didn't like where they were and craved somewhere and something else.

it's the gateway where you can find the kasbah which means fortress. it's what uncle bill burroughs called the last stop. the meeting place. the switchboard. reasons for settling in tangier diverge but everyone sooner or later since the beginning of memory comes to the cafe. johnathan dawson came to this city over 20 years ago as a journalist and never left. he live ace life not too distant from burrough's fantasy. cake and tea at 4:00 every day served by his man servant. he may not have a gazelle but a pet rooster will do. and every day he makes the rounds of the caves seeing all the old faces. ending up sooner or later here.

>> this exists in roman times and port jeez and the english were here and now it's completely morocco but this is a very historic square. very historic. >> as a writer, i noticed everybody that comes here to do an article does the same article. >> it's so boring. they all do the beat generation and there are lots of other stories in more rocco. but everybody likes the beats, bill burroughs and tennessee williams. they were all here but that's a small part of moroccan history. there's a life before this and after it. you're here. >> it was inevitable. let's pretend they never came. what is this place. >> the reality is you can live a

bowles story and live it and people try to live it. but they don't stay long. they stay in a cheap hotel and go home with bed bugs. >> that's not a great story but the attitude here is different than in other parts of morocco. >> they have a high tolerance of mad people. but moroccans are very tolerant people. they quite like madness as well. they kind of celebrate that a bit, you know? >> how moroccan is tangier. it's a moroccan city. i'm 62 years old and i didn't know in the international days but i think at that time europeans may have out numbered

mor moroccans in the center of the city. >> the notion of living life apart from being somewhere else -- there are those that like that feeling. i like that feeling. and then there are those that who, they may live apart. they may live somewhere else but they're not entirely comfortable. it's the -- the difference annoys them or is a burden. >> it is and it frustrates them. some people have to leave home to find their home. i'm one of those people. where as i didn't feel at home in the country i was born in at all but here i feel okay. i feel very, very happy here. >> there is, indeed, something special about this place. burroughs described the native quarter of tangier as a maize of sunless twisting streets filled with blind allies. it's smell was particularly notable to him including a mix of sered meet and sewage.

tangier before anything else is a port city. with all the things that traditionally come with port cities. it's situated at the choke point between the atlantic ocean and the mediterranean sea. the coast is a rich fishing ground and a lot of people make their living from the sea. on shore, they use a method of fishing where weighted nets drag fish across the bottom of the sea. some of that fish, the good stuff, anyway, ends up here. restaurant popular or pop eyes. it has a lot of names but they say it's got some of the best in town. the owner and head chef is from the nearby riff mountains and

sources a lot of his stuff from there and he is real proud of them. the back room of the place is dedicated to sorting and drying various herbs he blends into a secret pix he claims has all sort of benefits. if every dish i've been told over the years was going to make me strong worked, i'd have a permanent tent going on down there. so i take all that with a grain of salt. >> hey. how are you. >> his son delivers the food. it all starts with fresh olives. they're in season now and roasted walnuts. warm, very good bread. >> juice. >> oh yeah and you get this stuff. everybody gets it. a puree of figs, raisins, strawberries and full of the potent herbs and spices of

course. >> [ inaudible ] >> i get it. it's supposed to make me more manly. i'm eating. let's not talk about that, okay, sunshine? what is that anyway? it's a traditional moroccan stew that can include vegetables, meet or fish. tonight baby shark, calamari and fish with fresh mountain spinach cooked over charcoal in the pot that gives it it's name. it's supposed to force the con sensation into the dish and keep it moist and tender. >> that's delicious. i have no idea what they are. i've never had anything like them. tangier version of farm to table. >> hi. >> hi, what's that? [ inaudible ] >> and a whole turbo. brushed with olive oil, salt and pepper and then grilled

perfectly over the coals. suddenel cuddled up next to the fish, tiny shark kabobs, cute. >> all of this for $20. [ inaudible ] >> freaking me out. it's like that guy that does like this to you -- >> for dessert, strawberries, pine nuts and honey. like the whole meal, it's excentric and delicious. >> i haven't had so much fruits and nuts since -- [ inaudible ] -- >> i told him i said this is a

crowd, back on the job but he's like we can't disappoint the fans. memories.

for 40 cents, i got an egg. i got gum. a kazoo. a candy necklace. i got one of these. helium. fabric softener.

[ pop ] lipstick. two pills a day is what it takes to stay alive if you're h.i.v.-positive. those pills cost about 40 cents a day.

in tangier, i lived in one woman in the native quarter. i had not taken a bath in a year, nor changed my clothes or removed them except to stick a

needle every hour in the flesh of terminal addiction. i never cleaned or dusted the room. empty boxes and garbage piled up to the ceiling. light and water long since turned off for nonpayment. i did absolutely nothing. i could look attend of my shoe for eight hours. i was only romoved to action wh the hour glass of junk ran out. the words of will burroughs. he came to tangier shortly after shooting his wife to death in a drunken accident. he was a heroin addict and homosexual and inspiration to the beats. burroughs however was not a

hipster. he was a stuffy well-dressed st. louis son of a good family gone wrong. he was also, to my mind, the greatest writer of the whole bunch. on the road, you can have it. his classic naked lunch was written here. and nonlinear dark, dry humored critical and profane masterpiece. burroughs was apparently high for much of the process. on heroin or a locally available prescription opiate but the daily staple of many in these parts. it is the concentrated thc of the plant in brick like form. keef is the part of the plant containing only the strongest

concentration of psycho active ingredients. the other is a confection made from keef, fruits, nuts, chocolate and honey. i was of course fascinated by this product since reading about it and inquired of some local contacts, who shall necessarily go unnamed. how was it made? this was what i wanted to know. they were kind enough to demonstrate. it is first chopped into fine granules and slowly added to melted butter and chocolate and toasted and release the psychotropic goodies within. while the binder element is slow cooking in the pan, combination of spices are blended with kashew's almonds, and dried fruit. this will be the frame work for the next step.

the cannabis laced chocolate is added along with honey to bind together all the ingredients. then mix. last, you roll the entirety of the mixture into a ball and either refrigerate or dig right in. of course network standards and practices prohibit me from even tasting this delicious and mind altering treat, i'm guessing anyway. so unless i see chris john and wolf doing bong rips in the situation room i will abide by these rules because that's the kind of guy i am. there is one particular cafe that has drawn in foreign dignitaries, rock stars and artists since it opened it's

doors in 1943. cafe baba. sweet mint tea in a thick slow moving haze of smoke. it smells like my dorm room, 1972. >> hello. >> i'm george. >> this is george. >> thank you very having me. >> yeah, welcome to cafe baba. >> i have no direct knowledge or awareness of them smoking any illegal substances nor do i have any recollection at this time of me doing anything in their presence because that would be like wrong, dude. >> some tea? >> george is here on a full bright scholarship and she is an artist. others in the room, however, well, don't give me that innocent look you young punks. somebody in here is smoking reefer. >> how stone redirect examination -- stoned are people

here? >> we can ask. >> you're not getting totally ripped here? >> no, it's a functional part of daily life. for a long time the rest of the country and the government didn't like tangier a lot. there were foreigners that came here -- >> he likes it. >> it makes money. he sees it as a future economic super power. he is talking hotels and condos. good or bad. >> for moroccans it's work but of course they want to keep tangier like they know it before. >> this is very similar to the way it was but there's a tv right there. >> flat screen. >> and that's why people come here. they come to watch soccer games. >> you can well imagine the american guy who lived in tangier for 30 years, okay, he comes in and there's a flat screen tv on the wall. you have ruined the authenticity and integrity but the moroccan guy at the next table is saying wait a minute, you have a flat screen tv at home.

i want one too. what's wrong with that? >> yeah there are people here who probably never heard of it. if you only follow that there's no progression, there's no progress, there's no change. >> the thing about cafe baba is just sitting here taking in the atmosphere, you begin to appreciate the place. >> there's something different happening here. >> contact high, whoa, i'm hungry. wait until the spanish tortilla dude across the street opens for business. this is him. he specializes in make one thing and he makes it well, an omelet. well, it's actually more like a spanish tortilla but stonier. the potatoes are boiled and diced and mixed with beaten with eggs and put in a cast iron skill let.

where's my omelet because i'm hungry. >> he is just waiting for you right when you come stumbling out of cafe baba? coincidence or not. you be the judge. >> ketchup and mayonnaise. everything. >> ketchup and mayonnaise? sure, why not. condiment options i would be hard pressed to turn down at this precise moment anyway. >> good. >> that's a lot of mayonnaise. >> dude, that's awesome. i'll have 12 more. vo: traveling you definitely end up meeting a lot more people but

a friend under water is something completely different. i met a turtle friend today so, you don't get that very often. it seemed like it was more than happy to have us in his home. so beautiful. avo: more travel. more options. more personal. whatever you're looking for expedia has more ways to help you find yours. [growl] we used to live with a bear. we'd always have to go everywhere with it. get in the front. we drive. it was so embarrasing that we just wanted to say, well, go away. shoo bear. but we can't really tell bears what to do.

moooooommmmmm!!! then one day, it was just gone. mom! [announcer] you are how you sleep. tempur-pedic.

paul bowles lived in tangier and she was part of his inner circle near the end of his life. she was his friend, record keeper of sorts and photographer. >> you arrived when. >> in the 70s. and then in 86 i wrote a letter to paul bowles and said i had to meet him and take his picture and he said come and visit but i never left. >> a lot of people came here to live that dream or life. has the reality come to resemble

his perception of the reality. >> the tangier i see is paul bowles. i still see it. i still feel it. you can still find the magic. >> the market is one of the best in all morocco. the food stalls and vendors are still pretty impressive. wander the markets long enough and you're sure to stumble across the unexpected. how about a lamb's head? nothing goes to waste. the meat is scraped off and served on a crusty lunch bread. not so adventurous? they serve a variety of fresh meat. >> smells good in here. this stuff looks good. >> i heard this cheese is amazing. >> it's good, yeah. >> could i have one. >> a berber favorite.

fresh leavcheese wrapped in pal leaves. a little cheese, a little flat bread, the perfect moroccan breakfast to go. we're headed into the foothills of the mountain range. about 85 kilometers south. it's home to the people of a tribe which loosely translated means the saintly people. sit also home to one of morocco's better known musicians. jazz and rock and roll musicians travelled from all over the world here to meet this guy. he is part of a lineage of master musicians all from the small mountain village.

famously dubbed as a 4,000 year old rock band he and his son and these musicians maintain one of the oldest still living musical traditions on earth. we're invited for dinner. it's family style of course. beginning with hand formed envelopes of dough filled with seasoned beef and baked until golden and then crisp in oil. >> i'm good for now. well, one more. oh, here we go. >> the main event. chicken.

>> first chopped onions, garlic, parsely blended with olive oil. the bird is generously coated and stuffed and then after simmering in a touch of olive oil and water the chicken is fried until crispy served with roasted almonds and olives, paprika and ginger, nice. >> he smells the food. >> like anywhere else, eating with your hands is proper dining etiquette. >> this is tangier spinach. >> that's a wild spinach that grows in the mountains? >> it is chopped mountain spinach, garlic, cilantro, hot and black peppers finished with lemon and olive oil.

>> delicious. >> the greatest taste for food in the world. >> i love good food. this is good. >> after dinner, some fruit, some mint tea and let the music begin. for centuries the master musicians have been the musical choice of the royal families of morocco. excused by the country's rulers from manual labor to devote themselves to musical training. [ music playing ]

>> their powerful style of music has inspired many musical seekers including most notably paul bowles who wrote about them and recorded them and spread the word. brian jones was here and recorded the pipes with these musicians. the word spread and the master musicians have ended up being featured on albums by the rolling stones. for years, if you were a rock god, you had to come here. the crazy precussion and pipes

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but for all these symptoms, you also take kaopectate. new kaopectate caplets -- soothing relief for all those symptoms. kaopectate. one and done. anyone that comes to tangier ends up lost in the old part of the city. it's just what you want it to be. the ancient world residing just

next to and around the new one. you can walk around inside the movie in your head. play the character you never were. all against it all too willing, all to a genuine backdrop. ordinarily just about the last thing in the world i'd be interested in doing is antiquing but buried in the network of twisting narrow streets of the old city is the boutique owned and operated and cure rated by this man. >> hello. >> hello, how are you. >> he is one interesting guy. >> thank you. >> come in. >> when he was a little kid in the 60s he left his hometown and came here. he would own a few a night entering ashtrays at the wild and extravagant parties being thrown here. he saw what these people would buy for themselves and how they decorate their homes and he started to look around for

himself. scoring and then reselling art and antiques. >> wow. >> it became something of an obsession. now his artifacts from morocco and all across northern africa are bought by collectors from all over the world. carpets, antiques, wood carvings, jewelry and old doors. >> these are beautiful. tell me about that. >> amber, corral, shell, this used to be currency. >> how old is this. >> this is early 20s, the amber is millions of years old. >> how much are you selling this for. >> by weight. >> yes, quite heavy piece this one. so it comes to 42,000 -- >> so that's how much in dollars. >> 5000. >> about $5,000?

>> yes. >> should we look at another floor. >> yes, follow me. there's a nice collection of things. >> so you travel a lot? >> not like you. >> oh, this is for pounding -- >> yes, this is from mali. >> how much will this sell for? >> around $300. >> really? that's very reasonable. >> yes. >> i'll be buying that. that's going to be an old friend. >> a memory. >> and a memory of tangier. >> he suggests lunch at a local's only place nearby. >> as a moroccan, so many werners come with a romantic notion of a tangier they read about in books. do people have a realistic expectation? are they looking for morocco or --

>> if you get here, you know morocco you feel that you're in morocco but you're not. there's a lot of mediterranean touch to this town and also the history, people hear story about tangier. when i first came in the 60s everybody said to me you came late. >> right. >> now i'm saying the same thing now. they come and say wow. >> what was better about those days? >> at the time i was young and it was the boom of hippies and it was the destination, you know, cafe baba, bob dillon and the parties was going on. i miss these kind of parties. people fly from everywhere to the party and they make the whole town move. blue and white party, white and gold party, hat party. it's amazing and you see people coming with amazing hats like cage with a bird, extravagant

hats. people put so much energy and time into these parties, you know? >> oh, now that looks good. >> tomatoes brushed with local olive oil, garlic. liver kabobs, beef liver, grilled over charcoal. a bit of swordfish. >> that is just beautiful. >> how do you like the tomato. >> oh and the swordfish is amazing. how else have things changed. >> did you see how many tourists there were today? they were in a hurry. if they come to the shop they even try to avoid eye contact. they're afraid if they get my eye contact i'll rip you off or -- >> or make you buy something. >> i don't know. >> do they buy? >> ee don't even say hello. >> they don't buy.

>> of course. they have short hands and don't get to the pockets. i'm just kidding. la's known definitely for its traffic, congestion, for it's smog. but there are a lot of people that do ride the bus. and now that the busses are running on natural gas, they don't throw out as much pollution to the earth. so i feel good. i feel like i'm doing my part to help out the environment.

>> when tangier was inner zone back in the day it seemed to some as if they out numbered the locals. that was never true. but you certainly could live a life apart. make your own world within the existing one. reinvent yourself and live entirely within a universe of your own creation. far there's a 14 acre estate owned by christopher gibbs. a well-known dealer of antiques and long time expat. today he's having a garden party. who is coming. jonathan, maggie dean is from scotland. she has been living here more than a decade. >> he is a frenchman with his

hands on a lot of businesses including a cafe. years living in tangier unknown. bianca, an american, lead many lives and occasionally translates books to english and the mysterious man, an artist from chile who has been living and working here since a hasty exit from puerto rico for reasons never actually explained. on the menu, a meat or often pigeon pie. as traditional moroccan as it gets. made by gibb's full time cooks. the meet period is chicken which is pulled or shredded and then folded into an egg mixture cooked in the reduce stock.

it's layered with blanched almonds and powdered sugar and cinnamon and then raked in a crepe like dough. the final touch say dusting of more cinnamon and sugar. it has a sweet savory thing going on and it's quite tasty. >> if you get nervous when you go in a room and you touch the light switch and the lights don't come on, you shouldn't be in this country. >> what was that first moment when you said i can live here? >> i'm still quite unsure about that. i came here first in 1958 when it was quite different. everyone wore native dress. >> yes. >> but islam still the throbbing motor of life here. i have a very tender feelings for morocco and the friendliness and curtesy of the people and

the children -- you know, they don't say grandad like we do in england. >> i always feel welcome here. i never consider they know who i am. they know who i am. >> there is a side by side aspect to life here that's very unusual. >> very unusual here. it's mostly you can do whatever you want if you do it with good manners. >> it is a station of the cross for, you know, bad boys of culture. i mean, rambo. iggy pop. the stones. burroughs writes and came here to be a writer. >> he was a drunk before he was a writer. >> as so many of us were. >> a place to think of yourself as a writer you would come here and somehow working within a romantic tradition. >> yes. >> burroughs said right up front, writer to me lounged around in a smoking jacket or a

kaf tan smoking with a pipe littered with sleeping boys. >> yes. >> or girls. >> to what extent did that world exist and to what extent was that world created by the people that showed up with that expectation? >> since bill departed, iep, dear, wonderful, marvelous man, he's gone, it's tame now. >> it is tame. >> well, he was -- >> genteel now. >> he was the very opposite of genteel. he was an outlaw of every society. >> my husband knew him very well and i said, he said i cured him of being a drug addict. i said, how? he said, i turned him in to an alcoholic. >> who smokes hashish at this table? plea raise your hand. >> is the camera on? >> put your hand up, bianca.

vo: traveling you definitely end up meeting a lot more people but a friend under water is something completely different. i met a turtle friend today so, you don't get that very often. it seemed like it was more than happy to have us in his home. so beautiful. avo: more travel. more options. more personal. whatever you're looking for expedia has more ways to help you find yours. with the innovating and the transforming and the revolutionizing. it's enough to make you forget that you're flying five hundred miles an hour on a chair that just became a bed. you see, we're doing some changing of our own. ah, we can talk about it later. we're putting the wonder back into air travel,

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thank you, yes. most cities in the islamic world, getting a beer can be difficult. not here. as long as you're outside the medina, nearly anything goes. tangier reverts to its libertine past. here, western influences become very apparent. ♪ ♪ any night of the week is a good night for young ma rock cans to take to the streets. he's from a generation of moroccans far removed from the bowls burroughs era. he's invited me out for a casual snack. spanish style sandwiches with tuna, eggs and a healthy wad of mayo.

crispy layer of french fries within the sandwich. this is delicious. by the way, the bread here is very good. you work in magazine journalist? >> yes. i'm not a journalist but i own an urban magazine here in tangier to inform moroccans we are living in a place that's pretty special. it is not a place for burroughs or people that came to tangier. the city has something which makes it different from other cities. >> what about young artists, young writers, young musicians? do they come here expecting this romantic paul bowles wonderland of the '50s? >> some were. some weren't. too bohemian. >> too bohemian? >> yeah. they thought that coming and being an artist -- >> is going to be enough? >> is going to be enough. today it is not enough. >> right. >> it's pretty tough for them. most of them pack their bags. >> right. >> today we have so many investments going on here in

tangier thanks to our king. investors are here. attracted. tourists are attracted. but the most important part of it is we should keep the old parts of the city intact. the kasbah, the medina. >> the medina. >> that's what's hard to do because when you have a european purchasing power coming over here to tangier -- >> they come like we come. like we come. we embrace it. other people want to come. and then we throw up. we'll, will tangier's unique character survive? >> i hope so. i really hope so. >> tangier is morocco. always was morocco. and recently the country's leadership seems to have embraced it.

in all its ill reputed glory. the days of predatory poets in search of literary inspiration and young flesh are probably over for good. hippies can just as easily get their bong rips in portland or peoria. but the good stuff, the real good stuff, the sounds and smells and the look of tangier, what you see and hear when you lean out the window and take it all in, that's here to stay.

for most of my life libya was a word with bad associations. libya meant gadhafi. libya meant terrorism. >> pan am flight 103 went down in a blazing fireball. >> libya, a bad place where a comical dictator was the absolute power. nobody in libya, however, was laughing. >> reports of explosions. >> clashes between rioters and security forces. >> in 2011, what was previously unthinkable happened. the libyan people rose up and fought for their freedom. >> heavy battles raging around the libyan capital. >> they fought like hell. >> the rebels are about to force gadhafi's complete departure.