difficult circumstances and at a very difficult time who are continuing to do the best they continuing to do the best they can, and i wish them well. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com peru is a country that's historically driven men mad, mad for gold, for cocoa, for its magical ancient history. now, there's something else drawing outsiders to its hidden mountain valleys. we love the stuff. we obsess about it, gorge on it and felty size it. i'm talking about chocolate, once a common treat, it's now becoming as nuanced as fine wine making the pursuit of the raw good stuff all the more difficult. item joining that hunt in remotist peru, but not before i've reimmersed myself in the

boom i booming lima food scene. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> i'm in peru with this guy,

eric. >> he was looking at this, he went into the tree. >> that's funny. >> chef of the world famous restaurant in new york. to look at where chocolate comes from, particularly our chocolate, the very expensive limited run designer chocolate barbs eric got me into last year. so that's why we're in peru. before we get all indiana jones, we're spending some time in lima, as we like the capital city just fine. we have both of us, from previous trips, friends here. lima is the cultural hub and culinary capital of a country that has exploded in the last decade with scores of world class cooks, chefs and restaurants. it has long been considered to be one of the best food scenes in all of south america. >> good. >> five minutes. >> one of our friends here is

chef restaurateur as circumstance er, one of the best most successful chefs in the country. his family is a beloved culinary dynasty in peru and a small fishing village about an hour south of lima is where they spend their weekends. his mom is like peru's julia childs and james beard rolled into one. >> thank you for having us. >> an icon of peruvian astronomy. to say one is fortunate to enjoy her hospitality would be an understatement. warm, generous, welcoming beyond belie belief. >> too bad you have to leave so soon. >> yeah. >> normally, we have lunch late, like 5:00.

>> do you nap before lunch or after? >> both. >> sounds like paradise. wow. look at this. >> every weekend, marissa opens the house to an ever changing mob of friends, visitors, drop jins and family. >> this is fantastic. >> they do not skimp on the food. delicious, delicious things pour out of the kitchen, a torrent, a deluge of traditional peruvian favorites. >> i do this with crab meat, yellow potato and avocado. we love avocado. >> it is like a tour rin of crab meat, avocado and mashed yellow potatoe potatoes. >> this is from the coast. >> beautiful. >> basically raw king fish fillets dressed with lime juice. >> perfect. >> that's scallops cerricha. >> fresh scallops and lemon juice and garlic.

drum fish, braised with a corn based beer. >> they look fantastic. >> this is spicy. >> very spicy. >> and stuffed riccotti peppers filled with ground beef and raisins, served with cheese. >> wow. >> are we lucky or what? >> we are lucky. >> that's just the beginning. there's so much more food there's no way we can show it all much less describe it. it's incredible, overwhelming, invariably fresh and delicious and different than what i'm used t to. >> that's fantastic. >> i could get out of the chocolate business right now, put up a pup tent on marissa's porch and dig in for the duration. this is living. >> they're so fresh. >> i want to be her next door neighbor. >> it's so good. >> so as peruvian cuisine always

been this diverse and this delicious and we're just discovering it or has it changed over the last 15 years? >> it's change iing any way. what you're eating now is the traditional food. >> there's so many products in peru different than the states. when you eat this food, it's something like. not kind of like anything. >> it's all year-round. >> it is very good. >> what do you do when you're homesick for peruvian food and you're traveling? >> there's really -- >> we take some chiles with us in the luggage. >> i hate to say good-bye to this but it is what it is. things to do and places to go. wild and apparently extremely rare cocoa trees to visit. >> incredibly rare. so happy. ♪

♪ >> all i can say if people are anywhere near this nice on the rest of this trip, it's going to be okay. lima, city of kings, home to a third of peru's people. locals escape by hanging out at the beach. why not, when you can maybe get a tattoo while you're at it. is that sanitary? >> you've been here before. >> oh, yeah, man. >> i take eric's suggestion and we head over to see chef wang,

the uniquely nonconformist seafood specialist, famous for his incredible and uncompromising food and his flame iing wok. if peru has a national dish, it's probably this. the fresh estfish only needs the right cut, a little citrus and no heat. what's the most common thing people do wrong? >> the quality of the ingredients. you don't do it with something that is not fresh. >> the cut and the thickness. >> right. >> when you do it, you don't do it ahead of time. >> the whole place is served whatever men you he's doing that day, same for everybody. today, the flounder he got from the market is particularly nice, so that's what we're getting. generally thicker pieces to stand up to the supervises and acids. octopus and flounder.

>> i don't know what to tell you, man. it's damn good. >> it is good. >> is this spicy or not? >> you ever been spanked in your life and enjoyed it? me neither. i don't like pain. >> as painful as the pepper. >> brutalized with a pepper. >> that's really hot. >> it's flounder dressed with pecan, lime, limo and sesame oil, clearly eric likes. so you're not like foraging in the catskills for your inspiration? you basically rip your ideas off small businessmen? >> it's okay? >> circumstancesi. >> superb. >> chinese and japanese immigrants came to peru in great

numbers in the 19th and 20th centuries as contract laborers and farmers and their influence is felt here, particular there in food, to a greater degree than anywhere else on the continent. it's that influence and the ingredients of am zonia and andes that really distinguishes the food here as something special. >> what is this? to fu? >> this is not traditional. >> it looks asian to me. i believe it's probably -- >> his name is want. unless he's a retired porn star -- this shouldn't be good but it is. working up a sweat on that one. might have a couple more beers after this. have a nice nap, midday nap. it starts with little things. tiny changes in the brain.

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one more day in lima, the chance to delve a bit further into the cuisine before things get a little more old school. >> a special one we prefer here. >> colentro? >> it's like cilantro and much more powerful in flavor. >> it would be wrong to point out it is at the forefront of create i creating flavor unique to the

andes and amazon, flavors you find no place else on earth. >> there seems to be a lot of interest in the last decade to the amazon because of its amazing spectra entirely new to most of us of ingredients. at the cutting edge of exactly that territory, his restaurant amaz explores the rivers and landscape of peru highlighting a range of products stunning in their diversity and to us, their newness. >> you have tuna, plantain vinegar. the nut is a fruit in brazil. >> hmm. >> we make these scallops with wild almond. >> it is very very soft, the flavor of it and complements very well. >> this one is fresh water shri shrim

shrimp. >> whole new flavor spectrum, all new. almost like you need a new section of your tongue. >> it must be exciting ba because they're an amazing garden with the amazon. >> that looks good. >> this is a soup made of ham and peanuts and corn. >> hmm. i like the food. i've enjoyed these cocktails, to too. >> we're going to be wasted. >> we'll be fine. oh, whoa. >> this is also tradition. they seasons the fish, put it on a leif and cook it. the fish is catfish. in the amazon we have like 200 types of catfish. >> and the flavor from the leif, too. >> here, we have the second biggest fresh water fish in the world. underneath you have a puree that is a pam fruit and a production of ferment ed yuka.

>> fermented. >> or poisonous. >> and it becomes -- you can eat it. >> these fish are unbelievable. they get up to 600 pounds swimming in water no deeper than a rice paddy. >> really? >> giant. they're like dinosaur fish. everyone has been saying for years peru will be the next big thing. >> it is. this really prove it. >> we offer a chil chili pepper under the circumstances nuts and ants. >> they're big. >> huge ants. >> you want to try it? >> yeah. totally. you're not loving that, are you? >> no. >> imagine, you took a lot of acid and then you ate that whole bowl of ants and you go home and you experience violent diarrhea, you're tripping, it's like 4:00 in the morning and you turn around and look at the toilet and all these ant heads floating

around in there. it would be cool. >> it would be cooler only i can't wait. >> now that we've confirmed what the we already knew, that peru's food is unequivocally awesome, it seems proper we take a trip back in time to meet the forebearer's of this country's rich cultural legacy. the museum in lima has a massive collection of pre-colombian artifacts. looking at them, you get an idea of what these ancient peoples were like, how they lived. >> wow! this is like the real stuff. >> i think so. the real deal, yeah. >> gold necklaces. you see where the spanish just freaked-out when they came here, turned into men ni call greed heads. >> history does not have to be

bori boring. it can be sexy. >> i don't know whether you knew this, i have an aficionado of early erotica of post colombian heiress, you know pottery of people doing it. >> i should have known that. >> turns out things can get pretty interesting back in the day. >> oh, yeah. those guys can get crazy and get wild and apparently very kinky. >> the erotic gallery. there you go. that's a conversation starter. >> i take eric to the pre-k pre-colombian boning section, actually the erotic pottery section. >> slip of the tongue. >> amazing. >> which sounds about as much fun as an all nude renaissance fair, actually pretty crude. nothing new under the sun these pre-colombian horn dogs didn't think of first. >> a chicken. >> i'm not sure i understand this one. >> i think we frown on that these days.

>> wow, they're doing it under a blanket. this must be after the spanish arrived to teach them shame. ew, skeletons with boners. >> they are zombies. >> getting zombie old-fashioned. >> i really appreciate your knowledg knowledge. >> was this decorative or really porn? >> i think they put ain't closet somewhere. >> i bet this was right on the table. come on in, have a cup of tea. sit down. oh. here's some animal and manual action. pretty awesome. >> yeah. this is interesting. yeah. i'm happy we made it here, tony. that was an enlightened moment.

>> something about steamy xxx pre-colombian erotica always makes me hungry. luckily at night, lima comes alive with the smell and familiar enticing sound of sizzling meat. it's time for delicious screamingly hot garlicky spicy flavor jack street meats. as any knows me is well aware i love me some. really? why? the neighbors complain? >> complain. >> they brought us to this place, a street stall named for the lady who runs the joint.

they specialize in one thing. it is catch you want for skewered meat. this stuff, they say, goes back all the way to the incas and as popular with the spanish con kis s kist sta dors as today. which is to say, i must have some. traditionally a mixture of beef hearts and other animal hearts. >> hearts and gizzards. >> marinated in garlic, cumin, onion, a little vinegar. >> oh, yeah. >> grill it up and pile it on high. >> these are not small portions. these are mountains of food. >> this does not get any better. >> let's do it! >> man, that's awesome. >> yeah. >> that is some magic right

there. >> it's very garlicky. nice. chicken heart. >> that is seriously tasty. the beef heart or the chicken heart, the texture is so nice. >> all right. i'm maxed out. really delicious. >> excellent. atch. that's your receipt from another store? yup. let's put it to the test. all right! hot dog eating contest? [ laughs ] look at that price! nice! that's the thing! walmart checks thousands of competitors' prices every week. i like that! onward! charcoal. if someone else advertises a lower price, walmart will match it at the register. i didn't know that. i'm full of good ideas! okay. not so much muscle! all right, you ready? mm-hmm. that's incredible! that's the walmart low price guarantee! bring your last grocery receipt to walmart and see for yourself.

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the city lies about 400 miles northwest of lima, peru's largest city with over half a million people living there. it's our next stop, the staging area for our trip to the mountains. chocolate. we know we like the stuff. how is it made? where does it come from? columbus was the first european to encounter cocoa beans off the coast of honduras. he's said to have grabbed both crew and cargo and brought them back to spain. a few decades later a spanish c concquis tr concquistodore was said to have found the drink of the gods and the european royalty did their

best to keep what was fast becoming a craze for hot chocolate to themselves. but it soon found its way to america. in 1765, the first chocolate factory opened in new england. chiclayo's main market is a massive one stop shop for all things chocolate as well as just about everything else under the sun. >> oh, you have your animal skulls. that's tempting. haircut? >> i'm good. >> wow. >> this is the raw beans? >> that is toasted. >> then she -- >> grinds it. >> then puts it in a mold. gracias. >> bitter. >> not sweet at all. >> no. >> actually, here we are in the

market, i believe, where they have what i believe they call santarias. >> he is how should i put it, let's say he has more of a spiritual side than me. >> you need it to bless the rest of the cow. >> okay. >> so he has us shopping for what i guess i'd call chemanic supplies. medical medicinal herbs with properties to help us bless the cocoa crop. [ speaking foreign language ] >> this one is amazing. smells really good and supposedly purified. >> smells like hippie. >> interesting, they're very well respected in the region. they cure everything, do ceremonies. >> good? >> yes.

>> our journey continues by road as we leave and head east towards the andes. >> originally two hours north from here. you have the indians welcome you -- >> with blow darts. >> yeah. >> before we get too deep into the mountains, we're stopping off to meet someone. [ speaking foreign language ] >> anthony, he's going to teach us how to do the bath for the plants and for us. >> okay. [ speaking foreign language ] >> he's cleaning. all the negative vibrations.

>> close your eyes. he cleaned you and he wished you a lot of success. [ speaking foreign language ] >> especially in the back, the neck and the back. that's here, and the chest. >> we wanted a blessing for our

coca harvest. we got this. my aura is now cleaner than gwyneth paltrow's colon after a juice cleanse. but we're not done. we have to transport this stuff to our trees and finish the job ourselves. >> i know you won't believe it but he has change. i'm serious, not joking. >> i have an open mind. eric and i are heading to the canyon, eight hours by car from chiclayo, well into the andean highlands. on the way, we stop for lunch and meet up with this guy. [ speaking foreign language ] >> chris curtin, master

chocolate anoth chocola chocolateer and business partner in this adventure. so, basically a hen soup. that's good. where in the world does chocolate come from? >> well, 45% from ivory coast in africa. we don't deal in those beans just because of political situations. >> there was this stuff, the special chocolate. >> yeah. >> which pretty much what we're here to look at. >> yes. absolutely. >> where it comes from, what's involved. >> aftereric ate some of chris' chocolate and heard about these wild trees he was sourcing in peru and got me involved. >> i'm a rather famous guy and i never cared about desserts. you on the other hand, eat chocolate everyday? >> everyday. >> so here we are, three men and a chocolate bar. good thing for the world or

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the canyon where we're headed to meet some of the farmers that supply the beans that make our chocolate and get me an education in all things cacao. it can be tricky so we have to take care of the vigilante dudes that run a roadblock outside of town. it looks like a shakedown but they're a welcome sight. this hill, where cars have to slow down, was where all sorts used to waylay travelers like us. so these guys stepped in to take care of business. >> wow, that was a big shotgun. that will shoot through an engine block. actually, i don't really know but i'm assuming. at this time of year, there's also the rain and mud, which can mean flooded streets and streams that cut right across the roads.

and there's this, the river. in the best of circumstances, a fairly adventurous way to get your vehicles across, a long line across a fast moving current, ferry propelled only by the flow of water. but today, the river is too high and the current too fast. >> river running a little high. >> it's these smaller boats or nothing. >> when dealing with complex transportation issues, the best thing to do is pull up with a cold beer and let somebody else figure it out. >> yeah. let's go in the boat. >> to my crew, i say good luck. we're headed for what looks like bar on the other side. >> let me tell you, it's quite a ride. >> i'll go the last.

>> water inside the boat. the boat is sinking. >> you got to go down and then up, just right! f we make it to the other side, reasonably dry. >> beer? the canyon is home to a wide range of species including and strange us to the cacao previously thought to be almost extinct. a few years ago the trees were tested at a dna lab and had the

rare estforms of cacao in the wor world, this stuff. don is our cacao connection, a farmer whose family has been working these mountains over 40 years. >> they're absolutely beautiful when they start out. >> really cookie looking pods when they come off the tree. they sort of look like someone glued them to the side of a tree. this is a once a year crop? >> it grows continuously but this is a peak seasons. >> try that. put one in your mouth. bite it and see the nibs inside? >> where does chocolate come from? >> the bean. okay. here's where chocolate comes from. the trees produce pods. you split open the pods and take out the beans. the buyer sun drys the beans, then roasts them.

after roasting, the beans are extracted from their shells and ground up, producing chocolate liqueur. mix this concentrate with milk, sugar, cocoa butter and you get what we call commercial chocolate. our chocolate bar sells for a nosebleed price that's high by even premium chocolate standards. where does the money go? most importantly to me and eric, are we doing a good thing? here's how it breaks down. the raw cacao costs one chunk. lei bo labor, the inner sleeve, this much. design, box, packaging, this much. various equipment and miscellaneous, another small chunk. chris, me and eric get a slice out of every bar. that leaves this much, which the retailer takes. chef bleeding heart hippie here has already convinced me to give whatever meager profits we make off our first bar to a local

charity. >> what's unusual about these pods? these beans? >> extremely high quality flavor. >> thought not around? >> this was over 120 years ago and making a guy and comeback. the chocolate here is once in a life tooinl find. >> about 40% of the beans from these trees have white cacao beans mixed in. the rest are purplish in color. we heard of an ultra rare group of trees further up the mountains that produce pods of 1 100% all white pure beans something me and eric are very interested in down the road. but for now, don for fun naoto's daughter has prepared us a traditional peruvian mountain meal. >> wow. >> >> kuinas. >> it's rice dumplings with boiled chicken inside.

>> this is amazing. >> not surprisingly some guinea pig of which there seems to be many around for the taking. this preparation served with a cacao sauce. >> that's good. >> all of this food is deliciou delicious. >> so chocolate, say it is a luxury food item. >> yes. >> this is an area abundant with coffee, chocolate, fruit. how's life for the locals? [ speaking foreign language ] le. he says up 20 years ago, 25 years ago, it was easier for him. he was planting soybeans and coffee. >> right. >> he was making much more money. and then he didn't plant soybeans any longer and the coffee production went down so therefore he had a financial struggle for a while and now with the cacoa trees they are planting, he has no more stress and fairly up bebeat himself.

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[ roars ] ♪ [ male announcer ] universal studios summer of survival. ♪ i'm in the cannon in peru with my partner in chocolate bars, chef eric. and these are the white

chocolate beans from a farmer and we set up a meeting with another farmer elsewhere in the valley. we thought it would be a nice gesture given all the culinary talent between us to make a nice dinner for he and his family. >> how about that? >> you could do that with a nice sausages. >> which would be nice to throw in with stew. >> onion, peppers, a little bit of spice. >> and potatoes? we're kind of moving into the spanish and what's it called? >> and we can use shrimp from the guy. shrimp and chicken works. >> that sounds like a plan. [ speaking foreign language ] >> yeah. >> successful. >> yes. so far. wait until we arrive there.

it's interesting. >> don't be a downer, man. i'm optimistic. we arrive at the village who will lead us to the trees. >> we're going to follow him. >> what was depicted as a short walk up a slight incline turns out to be an epic hump up one hill after another. >> when you tire up, you tell us. >> when you slump to the ground and urinate all over myself, that will probably be a tip that i probably want to stop. another reason i hate the swiss, mountains. >> i love mountains. >> eric, who grew up in the pyrenees, is up the slopes like a gazelle. me, i feel every year of my misspent life with every step. >> oh, geez.

>> this is -- >> are we there? >> no, no, we're not there. >> he's a baby. only 22 trees. >> i wish i could hear you over the sound of my exploding capillaries. >> okay. >> by the time we get near the fabled trees, i'm toast. gasping for air, waiting to puke from the altitude and the exerti exertion. >> so, tell us again, what's unique about these trees? >> just because they are all white beans, all white. >> which is a rarity. >> so these are the only known all-white 100 pure. >> that's right. >> and why is that good? >> it's a new variety and gives new flavor profiles to it. >> i assume because i've humped up a -- >> excuse me.

oh, nice catch. >> watch your fingers, man. yeah. that's it. >> there we go. and i'm going to repeat myself. >> all white. >> remember the shamin. well, we still have stuff to do with the package he gave us. we do, presumably, want a good cop. better get right with the spirit world. >> oh, geez. >> shamin juice thrown around, the purified soil and there you go, chocolate magnates. well, good luck, dude, to a good harvest. vo: traveling you definitely end up meeting a lot more people but

a friend under water is something completely different. i met a turtle friend today so, you don't get that very often. it seemed like it was more than happy to have us in his home. so beautiful. avo: more travel. more options. more personal. whatever you're looking for expedia has more ways to help you find yours.

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♪ the trip downhill unsurprisingly is a lot easier on me. time for me in chef repare to get cooking. bake to basics, wood fire, ingredients from the morning morning and this old recycling system. here, fila. i'm ready for the chicken. and red wine. notice how i neatly maneuvered you into the chef job. >> now we have to maked the mashed potato and we're good. >> eric's mashed potato secret, around 50% butter. the glory that is france. i think they call it gout. okay. let's do it.

>> gracias. >> you guys can cook. >> some say. [ speaking foreign language ] >> the only guy, he asked all the founders of the village here to do exactly what he has done, so the farmers are starting to copy him. >> right. >> and he's happy because it's going to bring wealth, in the legend, in the valley and the community. >> afterdon makes a traditional unsweetened hot chocolate preparation, ground cakau anybodies, no sweetener, no nothing, just like the ancient kings liked it. >> there we go. gracias. the real deal. >> only water, and they will use -- >> before chocolate hit europe.

this is what the aztec kings would drink. >> they would be jealous right now. >> you'll get yours eventually. >> gracias. mucho gracias. salud. >> that's good salud. >> salud. >> gentlemen, to education. >> yes. >> so, did we do the right thing? is it all right for two new yorkers to make money, however much, or however little, off the work of struggling farmers in a faraway lane? for the nada, alberto, chris, everybody down the line, all the way to the families who pick the pods off the trees, seem pretty happy to be doing what they are doing, but do i want to be in the chocolate business? that's something i'm going to have to figure out. but for now one last thing needs to be done to fulfill our

shamanic obligations. >> guys, you need to get out. the guy is coming with his bike, and he doesn't care. >> a san mateo-hayward bridge, a bundle of uke luptus leaves, a badly working lighter, got to get right. do you have a lighter? >> we need to burn this stuff and pass it around our bodies three times. >> got something. >> oh, too moist. oh, you got it, man. >> okay. >> smoking. >> that's smoking. i'm going to get it. hold on. now i've got it. >> let's do it. >> okay. >> that's coming. i got it. we did it.

>> over. >> okay. done. hey. we have a problem with chocolate, i tell you that. >> get him in the coffee business. good evening, i'm anderson cooper. tonight, a murder that's gone unsolve the for more than half a century. a texas beau beauty queen, assaulted, killed shortly after going to confession. suspicion turned to the priest but nothing stuck. now, 50 years later evidence points only to the man who heard irene garza's final confession, the man they suspect took her life. gary tuchman has the story. >> she had beautiful, shiny hair. >> she had this natural effervescence. >> she had the most musical type voice.