we want to give you live pictures of brazil, a youth event his holiness pope francis at the copa cabana beach in rio. he has a very special prayer vigil for young bipilgrims ther. i'm don lemon. anthony bourdain, parts unknown, begins right now. [ speaking in foreign language ]

♪ it takes a special breed to live in a province like quebec. it gets cold in winter, and

winters are long. it takes a special kind of person for whom frozen rivers, icy, wind whipped streets, deep, seemingly endless forests are the norm. i will confess my partisanship up front. i love montreal. it is my favorite place in canada. the people who live there are tough, crazy people and i admire them for it. toronto, vancouver, i love you but not like montreal. why? i shall explain. all will be revealed. in the meantime, check this guy out. what sz the post office motto? neither rain nor sleet nor driving snow nor plague of locusts prevent the mail carrier from delivering junk mail? here in montreal the simple task of delivering the mail in winter comes with its own set of

hurdles. icy hurdles. i got to ask. you have special equipment for this? we got to like slip on boots? >> we do have boots when it gets icy with spikes on them. and they give us also slip on spikes for when it's icy. >> any sort of city ordinance that you have to shovel if -- not penalized financially snnchs no, nothing like that. >> any injuries in the line of duty? >> i had several incidents. i broke my ankle. >> what is the most perilous aspect of the job? dogs or icy stairs? >> in this area there's a lot of dogs but also icy stairs. >> it's one thoing have to work

outside in this wintry mess but takes a strange and wonderful kind of mutant to actually find it pleasurable like, well, these two gentlemen. do you like the cold? i mean -- >> it cleans the streets of ebola. >> the cold. >> the frigid cold keeps the riff raff out of the city for sure. fred and david, chefs at the legendary joe beef. historians of their beloved great white north. princes of hospitality. and what do men like this do for fun when the rivers turn to ice? when testicles shrink and most of us scurry for warmth and shelter? if like so many other canadians they would go ice fishing on the st. lawrence fever. >> the cabin fever in the family because we are confined, perhaps, to spend so much time indoors a lot of the families

love to do activities together like go to the cottage, go ice fishing. it's like get you out of the house. it's very much a family thing. >> like many of their ilk they'd seek one of the temporary, small towns of sled borne cabins, drill a hole in the ice, and wait. but these are not normal men. >> so is quebec better than the rest of canada? >> obviously. >> not bad. >> come on. i mean, you didn't have to think about that long. >> no. >> wait a minute. are strippers paid hourly here? is that right? >> it is considered an art, a performance art. >> so how does that work? you don't tip a stripper? >> you pay per song. >> you pay per song. >> then you can get a dance in the back. which is a private dance. ten bucks a song. five bucks a song in public. >> that's why i go there because their songs are super long and i

am a bit cheap. i go for the lap dance. >> after a suspiciously stunned fish emerges from the deep it is ignored. because fred and dave do things differently. no crude fried fish and bread crumbs for these men. >> oh, wow. look at that. instead a hearty lunch of french classics accompanied by fine wines and liquers as befitting gentlemen of discerning taste who have exhausted themselves in the wild. so this is how you live? >> well, more often than not, yes. >> we always have to travel well and eat properly. white burgundy. glacier bay oysters as well as thrown in there delicious. my prized possession. >> the funnest part is the

cutlery. fred has a wonderful collection of table ware. >> without getting snobby or elitist eating off vintage table ware is one of the great joyce in life. >> this is the interesting paradox. you aspire to run a democratic establishment and yet you are hopeless row mantics when it comes to painful nostalgics the art of living, right? sustenance is required like say a comsumme of ox tail to begin followed by chilled lobster. >> the art of dining is disappearing much to our chagrin. i work super hard at being an excellent dining companion. when seeking excellence in a dining companion what qualities does one look for? >> i turn my phone off, you know? i never put my elbows on the

table. >> of course. >> come prepared with stories. don't drink too much. don't become sloppy. >> come prepared. >> absolutely. >> no elbows on the table? >> no. it's not proper. >> i am a total failure as a dining companion. what is that? >> what's that, you ask? an iconic classic of gastronomy? look at that sauce. holy crap. the devilishly difficult dish. a boneless, wild hare in a sauce of its own blood, truffle, garnished with thick slabs seared directly on the top of the cabin's wood stove. >> look at that. we're in a wooden shack, over three feet of ice. >> you are hopeless row mantics, gentlemen. oh, look at that.

>> the dish is perch atop an etherial dish. >> this is from the vineyard. >> nice. wonderful. >> yes, yes it is. really. is there a billionaire or des pot anywhere on earth who at this precise moment is eating better than us? >> no. no. >> look at that. >> cheese. there must be cheese. in this case a voluptuously filled dish which some less hearty outdoorsmen might call over ripe but not us. this is awesome. here. a few cubans. you guys have a much more relaxed attitude toward the importation of cuban cigars. chartreuse of course and a dessert as rare as it gets. a dinosaur era monster long

believed extinct. >> this is ghetto -- >> who does this? >> no one frnls it is one of those, like, painful, nostalgic things. >> right. >> layers of almond and hazelnut meringue, chocolate butter cream. >> look at that! >> that was good. >> for these guys, this is normal. this is lunch. >> some days it's like play house in my house, french play house. >> yeah? what do you do? >> get dressed at their house. >> no way. tell me about it. >> the kids, too. >> he's a dandy. >> a sunday dandy. last time i did i made salad la orange, and then a huge cheese kurd about like 15 kurds of cheese. >> right. and how many people are in your family? >> him and his wife and two young boys. >> right. >> how many kids? >> so you, your wife, and a

2-year-old and a 4-year-old. >> they don't make it to the end usually until prematurely opened. i'm thinking that's -- i'm also thinking i have to do that. >> actually my daughter would totally be into it. the great outdoors... ...and a great deal. thanks to dad. nope eeeeh... oh, guys let's leave the deals to hotels.com. ooh that one! nice. got it! oh my gosh this is so cool... awesome! perfect! yep, and no angry bears. the perfect place is on sale now. up to 40% off. only at hotels.com

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once every so often a nation

will produce a hero. someone who changes everything about their chosen field, who changes the whole landscape, life after them is never the same. this is such a man. a here to foreunencountered rugged outdoorsman, veteran chef with many years of fine dining experience. renegade, innovator, one of the most influential chefs in north america. he is also a proud quebec wa and perhaps he more than anyone else is define for a new generation of americans and canadians what that means. he is an unlikely ambassador for his country and his province but maybe not so unlikely. i mean, look at him. out for a day trapping beaver with a local trapper, carl. so the bait is wood? >> yeah. just the bark.

>> they eat the bark. >> yeah, yeah. >> in pioneer days beaver was the financial engine of canada. >> yeah. >> empyres were built on it. every hat practically in the world was made of a bever pelt. >> that's why today it is the icon of canada. >> to a lesser extent the tradition continues today. carl continues to trap usually called on by provision officials to track beaver and clear away dams and control what could become a destructively over pop latd situation. >> hello, my little friend. >> this is a young one. those are the one we want to eat. >> what will you compare the meat to? is there anything like it? >> that's the thing. there is nothing. nothing like it. when you eat beaver it's beaver. >> along with an enpsycyclopedi knowledge of fine wines and

attachment to the music of celine dion he is a big believer in honoring history and tradition. if you still trap beavers you should if at all possible cook them and eat them. not just strip them of their pellets. as incredible as it might seem you can cook beaver really, really well. beaver tail on the other hand is not actually beaver at all. rather, a quick spoon bread type of thing that in our case goes somewhat awry during an inadvertent inferno. >> the sauce almost looks like chocolate it is so rich looking. >> i love it. when it is like that. some people don't put too much blood but i like when it is very thick. wow. absolutely delicious. >> it is. i wasn't joking about it. >> it doesn't taste like chicken at all.

>> this is your first time. wow. >> something i think you almost eat everything. >> yeah. at this point, you know, animals see me and they're like, ah. that guy. >> there is a joke around here somewhere but to tell you the truth the stuff is just too good. it's like ten below zero in this freaking town. that generally does not spell good times for me. a good time for me is more like a palm tree, a beach, a swimming pool, but the only cold thing is my beer. but no. they like to frolic in the snow and ice. more accurately, they like to obey their genetic imperative to

risk dental and facial injury by skating around slapping at a hard disk trying to drive it in each other's general direction. i believe they call this sport hockey. this is not in my blood. you skate? >> we grew up on this. >> everyone in quebec? >> what else? there is no reason to live here if there is no hockey. >> hockey rinks pop up all over the city to accommodate montrealers' desire to risk teeth, groin, and limb. right behind fred and dave's restaurant joe beef a pickup game of chefs, cooks, and hospitality professionals is under way. some of these guys have looked to be a little long in the tooth to be out there swinging sticks at each other skidding around on the ice. this is normal behavior? people actual dye this? >> absolutely. this is every day growing up playing hockey. canadian national sport, man. >> this young one is already

being indoctrinated. hello, young man. >> you going to play hockey? are you going to be a goalie or a player? >> a player. >> wow. >> a player. >> oh, man. am i going to get like a mouth full of puck by the way? >> it's being catered with fred and dave's usual restraint. >> come eat. >> hot coco in styrofoam cups? no. try a titanic containing flintstone sized hunks of pork belly, bacon, home made portions, smoked chops, plus veal and pork links. oh, yeah. this is a truly heroic dish. look at the beautiful work. >> awesome. this is the single best argument

for sharing a border with germany. and of course the finest wines known to humanity. >> german wine, pirate bottles. sweet. >> what am i drinking? >> canadian. this is norman hardy from prince edward county five hours from here. amazing wine. >> here's an allegory here somewhere. i'm reaching for it. something about friend days, reckless abandon coupled with precision and technique. a hockey metaphor perhaps. the hell with it. look. look. sausages. s. they work fast on heartburn and taste awesome. these are good. told ya! i'm feeling better already. [ male announcer ] new alka seltzer fruits chews. enjoy the relief!

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montreal to quebec city by rail. 160 miles of wintry vistas whipped past the windows, evocative for some of another time. >> sturgeon and caviar. >> i'm not sure about dave mcmillan but in fred's perfect world we would all travel by rail. it would still be the golden age of rail travel. so tell me about the great canadian rail system.

>> it's purely emotional. >> really? >> nothing rational about it. >> fred is what one might call conservatively an expert. how extreme is your railroad nerdism? >> this is how bad it gets. operating manual. >> this model train. >> yeah. >> so you have other operations. >> yeah. >> books, printed information, collectibles. an enduring love for the great iron horses that still take passengers across the frozen land he calls home. but it is something more than just nostalgia. it's also an appreciation for a dying art. >> it's like the old cruise ships. you transport your comfort. you know? >> for those days of cross country rail there were lavish dining cars, luxurious sleeping compartments, a bar car with attendants. >> we look at the menus of how people would eat on trains. it was inspiration of how we

cook in the restaurant. >> all the sweet breads and fresh peas, leg of lamb. current jelly. >> very nice pictures in the dining by train book. the guy holding the turkey and cutting the turkey. >> right. >> you order a drink. it comes from a bottle made out of glass into a glass made out of glass right. >> which is kind of cool in our day and age. it goes back to service doesn't it? thank you. we are presented with a perfectly serviceable omlete. there may no longer be a smoking lounge with brass spitoons but this does not mean a traveler has to suffer. you always travel with a truffle? as a gentleman must. wait a minute. i got to get an action photograph here. canadian rail. all these people are going to be expecting -- wait a minute. where is my truffle? can i have the truffle option please? oh, of course. don't forget the flop.

quebec city. one of the oldest european settlements in north america. samuel dechanplain sailed up the saint lurns and founded the site in 1608. when the fighting started with you know who quebec city was the french stronghold until the bitter end when the french fell at the plains of abraham. the french may have lost that one but some things french have stayed firm, unbowed, resiliently unchanged by trends or history. the continental is the kind of place about which i am unreservedly sentimental. >> when i was younger i ate here with my grandparents and parents. >> the best restaurant in town. >> classic.

unironic cuisine, meaning dishes you haven't seen since, like, forever. fresh, continental, ocean liner classics such as -- ceasar salad, tossed fresh to order. table side. and beef char char also prepared table side as one must. shrimp cocktail. a shrimp cocktail the way jesus wants you to eat them. all served by a dedicated professional. >> in culinary school we were taught this. real customers is your final class. we'd have to do the fruits, table side, all that which would fly off the fork and land in somebody's soup. i was so bad. start with the orange. run into trouble. i'll be right back. bite with my teeth. stripping the thing. at least once a day. one of the students would set themselves or the customers on

fire. the inferno would spill and they'd light it. there would be this line from the thing down across the floor up their leg. no. that doesn't happen here. like i said, professionals. >> this is going to go like a big fire ball. >> fire ball. good. >> the kind who know how to properly prepare these dishes. sweet. >> like a goose bump moment. >> yeah. >> for dave, another classic. a sauce made of cognac, cream. >> that is nice. look at that. and for fred, scampi newberg. awesome. absolutely awesome. for me, that most noble of dishes, dover sole. this appears to be one of the few remaining servers alive who knows how to take that fish off the bone, sauce it, and properly

serve it. thank you very much. so happy. very comforting. there is continuity in this world. >> across town, another thing entirely. the younger, wild er affaire ceh ocech -- cech ketchup which means everything is cool. are they hips ters or am i just crazy and thinks anybody below 30 is a hipster? i don't know but i admire them.

>> so how much did it cost you when you opened? >> not much. >> look at this tiny electric four burner stove. at no point in my cooking career could i have worked with one of these without murdering everyone in the vicinity before hanging myself from the nearest beam. how long did it take to adapt. >> i would say three months. in the beginning i was lucky i didn't have a lot of guests. i was like oh, man. i was freaking out. >> and yet these kids today. look at them go. serving a wild liam bishs and quite substantial ever changing menu out of this, this suzy home maker oven. tonight there's razor clams and a cream of haddock. >> very cool. thank you. i love clams. and you'll notice that nobody in quebec seems to skimp on portions. head cheese with mustard.

oh, and truffled sweet breads. and some goose hearts for good measure. excellent. hearts in general. >> also you got your grilled tomato bread. that's salt cod for you anglos. i'm all swollen up like the tire dude and ready to burst on the directional mist. hotel/motel time for me.

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with odor free aspercreme. powerful medicine relieves pain fast, with no odor. so all you notice is relief. aspercreme. how canadian is quebec? are they truly one entity or two? this is a question that has been wrestled with for sometime. question question be ek is certainly part of canada but in many ways another thing entirely. there is a lot of history much

of it contentious. go back far enough, and you get a clearer picture of why. the french arrived on the shores of quebec city in the early 16th century and seccumbed to the military might of great britain in the mid 18th. thus began a gradual but steady persecution of all things french. the quebecwa have struggled mightily to hang on to their french heritage and language. the issue of seceding entirely a notion that persists to some extent even today. journalist patrick la gas meets me for lunch to help me understand a little bit of what many quebecwa feel is at stake. >> i was going to talk about the whole history, identity, separatist movement but i have to get right to the pressing matter of the day. pastagate. >> what do you want to know? >> for those not up on current quebec politics, pastagate

refers to an incident where local authorities notified an italian restaurant they were in violation of french laws because they used the word pasta which is italian. >> okay. stop apologizing. okay? >> don't get me wrong. i lean french, hard. i am enormously sympathetic to the language laws. >> you don't think it is preposterous? >> i do not but here we have a situation. it is stupid. >> i agree with you completely that this province 40 years ago was in some respects an english city. we needed to have language laws for signage and stuff. >> now, signage for instance must by law be principally in french. french first in all things. but every bureaucracy produces by products of stupidity. that was it. you know what? it will not stand. >> the anglo canadian treated french speaking quebec law like

second class crap for much of history. i get it. i'd want my own thing and when i got it i'd want to make sure there is no back sliding to the bad old days. >> the first sovereign to be elected in 1976, it didn't come out of a vacuum. it came out from a couple decades of awakening and struggle. >> 50 years from now will people still be speaking predominantly french in montreal? >> yes. no doubt about it. >> french first is something most would agree with. how far and how vigorously you want to go with that, well, do you think there is any possibility or real majority plurality who would have voted in separate nation status? >> in english you guys say timing is everything. the timing was never better than in 1991, 1992.

from 1995 this country came inches from being broken up. >> do you think it will happen in the history of the world? >> i don't know. but i know one thing. anybody who says separatism is dead in this country and this province is a fool. >> no matter how you feel about quebec, either separate from or as essential part of greater canada, any reasonable person loves this place. correct me if i'm wrong. this is famous for the sandwich special. what tradition does this fall in? >> basically eastern europe. it was a survival thing. it was because they were poor. and that's what they could make. >> wilensky's an old school corner institution around since 1932 serving up pressed meat, bologna, and salami sandwiches or specials as they call them with egg greens and milk shakes. so the special and an appropriate beverage. very happy.

>> here's how it goes. there are rules. the special is always served with mustard. it is never cut in two. don't ask why. just because. that's the way it's always been done. a little respect for tradition, please. >> hum. i'm happy now. some things are beloved institutions for a reason. this is delicious. thank you. innovation, tempur choice. it features an adjustable support system that can be personalized with a touch of a button. so both of you can get the best sleep possible...together. goodnight love chickens. ...excuse my english, love birds..

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the tradition of the sugar shack is as old as maple syrup here in quebec where 70% of the world's supply comes from. deeply embedded in the maple syrup outdoor lumber jack lifestyle is the cabin in the woods where maple sap is collected and boiled down to syrup. over time, many of these cabins became informal eating houses, dining halls for workers and a few guests where a lucky few could sit at communal tables and enjoy the bounty of the trees and forests around them. this tradition has been taken to what is somehow both its logical conclusion and insane extreme.

creating his own shack open only during maple season and serving food stemming directly from those humble yet hearty roots. it makes perfect sense in one way. i mean, 130 acres produced about 32,000 gallons of maple sap, which run through these tubes here where they're cooked down to about 800 gallons of syrup, which is more or less what they use per season here. nothing leaves the property. and it makes sense while you're here to raise hogs and cattle on the property and maybe keep a cabin or two around for any friends who get too loaded to sleep it off. but this? this is there really any reason for this? what are you doing here? why do you have to make life so hard? if money were your primary

motivation, this doesn't seem like the fastest road to untold wealth. >> you know, everybody had a -- you can go back three generations and they had a sugar shack. i am very proud of quebec. i'm very proud of canada. you know? you celebrate canadian history. you celebrate cannian traditions. you celebrate canadian ingredients in a way that no one else has. are you some kind of patriot? is that what's going on here? is it national -- >> very much a patriot. i say it all the time. this is one of most important restaurants to me in north america if not the world. >> an art installation if you actually look at it. >> the meal begins with a power of maple desserts. good lord. sponge maple toffee, maple donuts, beaver tails, maple cotton candy. but wait.

there's more. almond croissant, whipped biscuits. some nugget. >> yeah. >> ah. there we go. i think that is a first for me. i've never seen that done. not with a hammer. then let the madness begin. next, a whole lobe of baked beans on a pan cake cooked in duck fat of course. cottage cheese and eggs cooked in maple sir u. wow. that's awesome. there's a healthy salad. sauteed duck hearts, gizzards and pig's ear topped with a heaping pile of fried pork rinds. >> good lord. oh, and a calf brain and maple bacon omlete. and these. >> how this is made? >> with love. >> with love. >> panko-encrusted duck drum sticks with shrimp and salmon moose and maple barbecue sauce. >> good lord. wow. >> this is a classic dish.

it is a meat pie. >> calf brain, sweet braeds, bacon, and with martin that is not sufficient. >> usually there is no truffle but i just -- >> yes, black truffles. >> more truffle. >> too much truffle. >> >> my blood is getting thicker as i look at that. >> now the main course, a home grown smoked right out front local ham, with pineapple and green beans almandine. and with chicken, but with martin, chicken is never just chicken. >> stuffed with foie gras and lobster. we pump lobster bisque into the chicken. >> good god. there is a light at the end of the tunnel. >> oh. >> someone should be singing the national anthem now, i mean,

really. >> in practically prehistoric old-schooled canadian classic, maple syrup is heated, then poured on snow, making a kind of taffy, but the preferred delivery mechanism does present some issues. >> no, no, no, no, no. >> what? >> take a big one, and you have to suck it. don't swallow it, you know? >> look, you have to go like that, slowly, slowly. you know? just slowly, slowly. that's how it's good. that's it. >> can i do that in a manly way? you just sort of look away in a distracted way. i'm not really -- >> the best way is to look up. >> finally maple meringue cake and maple ice cream with

chocolate shards. any suggestion on how to attack it. >> we did it once. i went the chef suggests a cone and the chef suggests you eat it like that. there's the thing. i think there's too much focusing on the food, wow, these are very intellectual and wow. i've done too much of all those -- you know? i don't want to do that. i don't want to play games any more. >> because food is feces in waiting. [ laughter ] >> this is cnn. play close. good and close.

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if there's one thing you always need on a cold snowy night, it's yet another hearty meal. i meet back up with dave and the liverpool house, sister restaurant to joe beef. >> i think we always compensate a little bit with overabundance of food. because of our insecurity of not being, like, good cooks. >> you know what? it's a combination of low self-esteem and generosity that explains the amount of food, perhaps. >> first course -- >> gravlax of char. >> salman gundi. beets and eggs. >> look at that. >> unbelievable.

look at the aspic work. >> this is smoked potatoes inside. salmon pastrami. >> wait a minute. this is super classic. >> soft, boiled or poached egg in clear gelatin broth classly garnished with white ham, tarragon leaves and black truffles. >> oh, my god, i was pretty sure i would live the rest of my life without ever seeing this again. delicious. but tonight after a full week of franco-canadian full-on assaults on our livers and our lights, fred and dave thought it would be good to take advantage of the insanely delicious fare by their brilliant chef omar, who's from pakistan. amazing, authentic pakistani food. >> what do we have here? >> butter chicken crab, tikka,

pomegrana pomegranate. a little mushrooms. rabbit korma. fingerlings with a fenugreek and fennel. this is donkey hanarri. >> yes, he did say donkey. the dishes continue. pakistani gumbo with okra and coriander, a says my seed and green pepper curry. hangar steak, scotch egg, and an authentic goat biryani. wow. biryani's awesome. >> are you full? >> yeah. pretty close. >> we did good work here. in the end, and perhaps as a nod to the anglo tradition, however, there will be stilt. this is a genius meal. these princes of gastronomy, never a suboptimal moment.

nothing short of excellent accepted. beyond excellent. too much excellent? yes. possibly. over the top? yeah, definitely. it all comes around in the end. the circle of life. we begin at the beginning, the heart and soul of every right-thinking quebecois, apparently. ice, a stick, and a puck. fred and dave and martin picard are joined by the original god of montreal gastronomy, the great chef norman la pris to watch their beloved montreal canadiens lay waste to the carolina hurricanes. all the while eating, of course, and drinking, as it turns out, the finest wines known to humanity. >> and here we go. >> oh!

if you listen to the news these days you might think america is a pretty divided nation. you're either for gay marriage or against it. you're either pro life or pro choice. you're a republican or a democrat. but when it comes to guns, things get a little trickier. because no matter which side of the line you stand on, you can't ignore the news about gun violence. >> another deadly shooting. >> the gunfire erupted at this birthday party. >> two people are dead. >> shot a 35-year-old -- >> 7-year-old boy. >> open fire on a street with tons of people around. >> more than 11,000 homicides were committed with firearms in 2011, alone. mash shootings and gun suicides are on the rise in