for most of my life libya was a word with bad associations. libya meant gadhafi. libya meant terrorism. >> pan am flight 103 went down in a blazing fireball. >> libya meant a bad place where a comical dictator was the absolute power. nobody in libya, however, was laughing. >> explosions. >> clashes. >> in 2011 what was previously unthinkable happened. the libyan people rose up and fought for their freedom. >> heavy battles raging around the libyan capital. >> they fought like hell. >> the rebels are about to force gadhafi's complete departure. >> they recorded the whole thing on their cell phone

♪ amazing. arriving here after all you see on tv these days that libya is in fact functioning at all. but it is. the fountains across from the

cornish are operating. traffic works -- kind of. at the radisson club sandwiches arrive on time in the lobby. the occasional flash of camo and a security scanner are the only discordant notes. you don't want to take -- >> okay. then don't. >> inside the old part of the city, men slaughter a camel while a girl records it with her ipad. okay. you say no. kids are setting off fireworks. incoming. tomorrow is the prophet mohamed's birthday and people who have not known freedom for nearly 50 years are ready to celebrate.

the square is filled with families, kids, teenage skater boys and hot shots on motorcycles. it's wild. and almost giddily happy. young men in the camouflage pants of the militias most of whom were civilians until last year do their best to sporadically keep water or just join in the fun. every kid above the age of 5 seems to have been issued a lighter and fist full of fireworks. ambulances idle on the square to treat fireworks related injuries of which there will be many.

that's good. this is tripoli after 42 years of nightmare. how to build a whole society overnight and make it work in one of the most contentious and difficult areas of the world is what people are trying to figure out.

so before the war did you think it would ever be possible? >> no. >> did you dream some day this will change? >> no. you get killed. that's it. it was impossible. but then i joined the group. you know? >> right. >> the militia. >> omar is young and was even younger when the fighting started. he, like so many libyans from around the country and many who had left, heeded the calls for revolution on facebook and twitter. they fought in tripoli, benghazi, misurata, and everywhere in between. who won this war? young people or everybody? >> everybody. but the young people, they started it what was your day like as a revolutionary? >> you keep one thought in your mind. you do this for the next generation for a better country for a better life. >> you have a future now. >> yes. >> before people, you know -- >> a future.

we were slaves for gadhafi. >> oh, this looks good. >> yeah. it is. >> barracuda is a seafood restaurant just outside of town on the mediterranean coast. >> one of the best in libya i think. >> the menu is not printed in paper but laid out right there for you on ice. >> what do they do, just grill that? >> yes. some garlic, some sauce. really awesome. >> you pick out the stuff that interests you from the daily catch. >> let's get one of these. one of these. >> some shrimp. calimari, too. >> they cook it for you the way you want. >> oh, beautiful. >> grilled dote. >> wow. that's delicious. this is the stuffed calimari libyan style.

good sauce. living large today. >> yes we are. what were you doing before the war? >> i was a travel agent. >> you were a travel agent. >> yes. medical school. >> many of the people who started the revolution who fought in the streets with makeshift weapons were like omar. medical students. garage mechanics or simply teenagers. they transformed themselves in a matter of months from kids playing play station to hardened fighters and fieldmen. >> nobody believed that he could be removed. >> how quickly after the uprising started did you begin to think that, wow, this is possible that we might actually win? >> the first day. >> the day before you figured impossible we'll be stuck with this son of a -- forever and a few hours later, wow.

this might work. >> seeing groups with you going toward the martyrs square demanding their rights, at that moment you feel that you can do anything. this is going to happen. or die trying to do it. so much has changed around town, so much is changing. new music, graffiti, these things mean something. but centuries of strict social

and religious values keep some things solidly the same. alcohol, for instance, is strictly forbidden. men and women follow hirkal roles as before. since the revolution there is a tug of war over what is acceptable. outside a mosque men fill the narrow street to celebrate mohamed's birthday. snacks are passed around. women watch and record from the roof tops.

there aren't a lot of conflicts in the world where there is a clear bad guy. clearly, a bad guy here. >> exactly. one thing about gadhafi is he had -- he was the most important human being he believed that almost ever existed. he changed the names of the months. he changed the dates of the islamic calendar. such meglomania and as you well know anyone outside, you mention the word libya and everyone just said gadhafi. gadhafi stole the identity of libya. >> he is the cofounder of the english language paper the libya herald and has known several different libyas in his

lifetime. >> for so long the news has been the personality. gadhafi turned up to open a shopping center, to open an envelope. those of us who knew libya, who knew there was another libya and wonderful people, we would talk about it as you talk about a dead person. do you remember this? do you tlaer? then in february, 2011, suddenly there was resurrection. the dead came back to life. >> we meet at a libyan coffee house. a traditional, male only sort of joint. cafe culture is big here, a holdover from the days of italian colonization when mussolini tried to rebuild rome's long lost empire. >> it's just been the most amazing experience seeing the rebirth of a country, of a people. >> last night's fireworks. exuberance bordering on anarchy. i felt very happy if somewhat in

peril. >> it's christmas. it is the 4th of july rolled into one. but it also, there are people who are trying to stop it, puritans, extremists, you want to say militants. what has happened is people have come out in defiance of that. they're showing, we want to have fun. remember for a long time in libya you couldn't have fun. the biggest misconception is that the place is turning into another afghanistan or iraq where you've got bombs going off, attacks. it is not, as you see. libyans have gone through an awful time having fought for freedom. people have died and struggled and that is going to hold them together. the great outdoors... ...and a great deal. thanks to dad.

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kids selling fireworks in the market. one is constantly reminded libya was once a vital part of the ancient roman empire. that was nearly 2,000 years ago. tonight i was told was going to be an even bigger, wilder celebration in martyrs square. but something has happened since last night. the british foreign office just told all uk citizens to leave benghazi, libya's second largest city, due to an unspecified

threat. the libyan government such as it is has denied any basis for such drastic action. a lone cherry bomb now and again, an awkward flurry of roman candles. the buzz of last night's chaotic partying m inin ining parched b. whether this is part of the larger geo political situation the vibe toward this western film crew seems apprehensive. uncertain. the following day feels better, somewhat. fresh produce is for sale on the streets. a small restaurant or if you were shopping for a big family, you bring cash, wheel barrow, and load up with what you need.

but the revolution has brought changed tastes. libyans especially young libyans hunger for more than just freedom. they hunger for places like this. uncle kentucky fried chicken. okay. the colonel and his buddies the king and the clown have not quite made it here given the uncertainty of the situation so in the meantime, places like this have been popping up. awesome. do you know where kentucky is? this place is new? >> yeah. new. born in kentucky -- and now it's normal. >> oh, that's nice.

>> now you found it how? >> nice and delicious. >> johar like many libyans his age fought to overthrow gadhafi. he was there, gun in hand, when they stormed gadhafi's palace compound. >> happy? excited? good day? >> gives me a nice feeling. nice feeling. gadhafi killed my cousin. how we should be feeling? exactly, i'm feeling good because i wanted to kill him. i don't want see anyone die more. he has killed for nothing. the first time i think that killing people is bad. he's leave me do that because if i don't kill him he's kill me. >> right. nice to see freedom. nice to see the bad guy gone. it's nice. i feel welcome here. >> finally. we say no on him. he is now die.

that is what we wanted. >> to johar a few pieces of greasy fried chicken eaten in a brightly colored fast food setting means something more than a calorie bomb. >> that is why i gave my blood for my country because i want the feeling of freedom. >> the taste of freedom. >> a nice taste. >> this? >> good. outside triple e center, there's this. one time access of all power and

untold evil. a huge complex of sinister offices, barracks, residences, on top of a rabbit warren of secret tunnels and underground facilities. gadhafi's enormous compound. most everything belonging to or associated with gadhafi was destroyed. nato continually bombs strategic locations within the compound and on august 23rd, 2011, it fell to the rebels. gadhafi and his family having fled. this is what is left of gadhafi's palace.

when is the last time you were here? >> last time is when the revolution is finishing. the machinery is going in first fighting. after that the people with the guns. after that all the people, normal people listening about something expensive here like the salt and like the gold. >> stop. stop now. stop now. >> okay. >> while talking we didn't notice several pickup trucks of local militia had closed in on us. >> let's go. >> okay. stop. >> okay. you stop. >> just relax.

relax. this is their turf or their area of operation or somehow under their control. whatever the case, they're the group in charge today. an argument ensues between our guys and their guys. all of whom fought against the same forces on this ground a year ago. >> asking you guys to stand aside. >> okay. let's go. >> hold it down. hold it down.

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libya has denied an imminent threat to westerners in benghazi. this follows advice on thursday that westerners should get out of the city warning of a specific and imminent threat. >> if you follow the news you'll be reminded about how the lack of centralized power in the wake

of the 2011 conflict has seen an increase in islamic militancy in libya. >> westerners and libyans are very concerned. >> what you see is not encouragingment kidnappings in algeria, unrest in mali, terrorist cells to the south. deadly riots in egypt and extremist attacks in benghazi that killed the u.s. ambassador. all of those things are very real concerns. if you only look at the news can miss maybe what is a bigger picture. another morning in tripoli and life goes on. vendors are out. people go about their daily routines. this is our traditional breakfast. >> what is this dish called? >> it's an over stretched omlete i suppose with an egg on top.

>> what is the little pancake they put on top, just to hold the egg in? >> yes just to hold the egg in. you can get them with cheese. you can have it with honey, with sugar how do you like yours? >> i like mine cooked. to be honest. what is the name of this neighborhood? >> this was the first neighborhood to rise up. this is it. >> why do you think this neighborhood? >> it is an impoverished neighborhood. it is liked by the regime. made them feel like they are not in this country. we go for it. >> oh, yeah. dip it right in the egg. >> dip it in the egg. delicious. where were you when it all started? >> i was in london. actually manchester at the time. then i was in libya. >> we were out to see his house

yesterday in the compound. >> i was one of the guys who entered from the southern gates -- the northern gates. >> he is in the security business, a thriving industry here as you could probably imagine. a lot of things happened in a lot of different parts of the country simultaneously. kind of amazing all these people came together very fast. >> how did it happen? >> yeah. >> easy. twitter. >> twitter. it was really like that. >> yes. we sent so much information to nato via twitter. we got phone calls from tripoli or benghazi or whatever. we got the coordinates from google earth. we verified there is a location there that needs to be hit. send it and then it is gone. >> really. >> yeah. >> how does that feel knowing you can call in a tomahawk missile over there? >> it's out of the movies. >> did anyone think it was possible that in their lifetime they would see the end of this son of a [ bleep ]? most people were telling me they never dreamed -- >> i don't know if you can call it dreams, hopes, wishes. it was just something in the

sky. something i look at every night. but when it hit that point, got in and stood on gadhafi's body, any dream will come true. >> what is the situation now? >> it is fluid. it can swing any direction. >> look. what happened in benghazi a few months ago, what does this mean to the country? >> i think there is a dark, mysterious hand that doesn't like this country to prosper. they see organization as a big enemy. these organizations are slowly getting diminished. a matter of time before we can get rid of them. >> how hard do you think it will be? not hard at all. we got rid of gadhafi. nothing else is hard. >> i like your attitude. the fluid situation in libya has been intensifying since our arrival. we've had to change our behavior, constantly moving. >> should i be wearing one of these cool, gerald safari

jackets at this point. >> so it seemed like a good time or maybe not. >> saddle up. >> to go to misurata. okay, guys. we can go. >> roger that. >> since the revolution, misurata has been the most secure city in libya. over the last two weeks in a hail of bullets and hand thrown grenade attacks, an imam, security forces, and a police officer have all been killed. along the narrow congested highway there are check points with mostly local militias. i want to stress most of them are friendly enough. we are in a hurry to get to misurata before dark. traveling at night around here is not advised.

pulling into town after dark it doesn't feel like a happy place to be. misurata was where some of the fiercest and most heroic struggles of the war occurred. resistance was the most determined and the response by the gadhafi forces especially merciless. we just learned that earlier in the day a city councilman who was a hero of the revolution was assassinated and it's not clear who is responsible. misurata is on full lockdown. looking around at the price this city paid for freedom you can see why they don't want to lose what they fought so hard for.

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norng misurata. daylight reveals the extent of the fighting that took place here not so long ago. >> this used to be a vegetable market. clothes. one of the soldier's clothes. >> he left them here and ran. >> yeah. what they did in tripoli. went into the city. just moved their clothes. so nobody won who they are. >> this is hownia one of the guys we called the misurata boys basically militia men from the area who looked out for us here and in tripoli when things started to get hinchy in neighboring algeria and in

benghazi. >> seriously attacked. his job these days is hunting down former gadhafi supporters. >> so the gadhafi forces rolled in, would use these tanks to fire around. >> around the city. full of tanks here. this was the operation room here. >> now if you had any doubt about the terrible odds these young revolutionaries were facing during the early days of the fighting, especially in the months before nato came in with air support, check out misurata's war museum. what did this fire? >> fired a rocket. home made. there is a rocket here. >> you had to have serious courage to ride around with this

thing. >> why? a lot of home made things here. this is home made, too. >> this is home made. >> this one? >> this was from a helicopter. >> yes. >> we got it. i rode in the cars. >> you took it off the helicopter. >> yeah. >> and you put it on a car. >> yeah. you know what this is for. you know the motor. >> basically a crossbow that fires molotov cocktails. >> yes. and tnt sometimes. >> you're shooting this at people who have mortars and tanks. you're shooting this at tanks. >> yeah. this one we got at the time. >> what you have. awesome. >> this is his. he has to think twice before sitting on it. >> never screw your people. never screw your people. i'd remember. >> and here, these are gadhafi's stuff. >> this was all taken from the compound. >> the ak.

his chair. >> preferred hair product. >> his shaving kit. he was wearing a mask. >> his beauty mask. i could use some of that. >> gadhafi. beautiful, you know. this is the first one. >> who was he? >> that's just a normal guy. went out with the first riot and somebody came and shoot him. so the next day the whole city came out. that is when everything started. these are photos of those killed during the uprising. combatants and bystanders alike. >> she was 6 years when she died. >> shelled in their homes, tortured to death in prisons, shot by snipers. look at this. he died, they killed him with a

grenade. he's saying what's going on, guys? why are you doing that? they still have the t-shirt with the blood in it. >> do you know any of these people? >> yeah. i know a couple of them. this guy is egyptian. >> not even his fight but he came. >> all of them died.

these are brothers. one, two, three, four. they died on the same day in the same house. the mother when we found her, she was holding the kid. they were both dead and holding each other. it was a very sad moment. uhh, it's my geico insurance id card, sir. it's digital, uh, pretty cool right? maybe. you know why i pulled you over today? because i'm a pig driving a convertible? tail light's out.. fix it.

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>> that's how you turn a corner in misurata. >> i notice you're going full blitzer thon shoot. the mediterranean sea defines libya's northern border. in shacks built along the coast people get together on weekends to do what people do everywhere in the world in one form or another since the beginnings of society. like barbecue? who does not? >> there he is. >> they sure like them here.

chase down an animal. kill it. cycle of life. >> cut it into pieces. and throw it on a flame. all of these people are freedom fighters? >> ex-freedom fighters. now chilling, having fun, making barbecue. >> to start, they grill the lamb in small pieces with a few veggies. i've been about a week without alcohol. i'm enjoying my new clean living lifestyle. walls. yes. that's hospitality. >> i said it before. i'll say it again. barbecue may not be the road to world peace, but it's a start. laid back. american?

laid back. a stew made of kidneys, liver, and heart served family style. feel free to eat with hands, right hand only please. and left over from the italians, basically pasta with ragu. >> good. so the italians left you one good thing. a few nice buildings and pasta. >> yeah. the story of libya seems to be ordinary people suddenly called upon to do extraordinary things. where were you when war broke out? >> i was in canada, montreal. >> studying medicine. >> yes. >> dr. jihan put her medical studies on hold to help tend all

manner of horrible war injuries. what kind of procedures were you doing on a regular basis? >> oh, everything. without prior practice and knowledge so you just kind of enter the situation and pick up things. >> how many patients did you treat a day? >> 60, 70. it was a lot. like the whole hospital was full. >> when you heard he had been killed, what did you feel, relief? >> i felt relief. i was like realizing that, okay. it is over. i am trying to heal my own wounds. in the middle of it you just go, go, go and you never realize how many injuries and trauma you get inside yourself. before you never think of we're going to survive and have a free libya or anything. it's just lying going with the state of mind that i'm going to do my best and i am at peace with myself if i die. then you find yourself here now. it's like, now it's the gray area. >> she risked her life along

with the men. the traditional and hide bound rules of conduct do not allow her to sit with them during dinner. she is relegated to what might be called the kids table. what can one say? we who like to think of ourselves as more enlightened in this area? i don't know. rightly or wrongly, i said nothing. what does freedom mean? i don't know that either i guess. for sure, it does mean the freedom to enjoy an afternoon no one thought possible. only a little while ago. the freedom at least to joke and laugh. the freedom to be for a while relatively care free. the great outdoors...

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a liver sandwich. they talk about a high risk environment. i think they're talking-environ talking about food. that's good. >> halfway back to tripoli, the magnificent ruins. arguably the most intact remains of a roman city in the world. it's worth noting that at one time the emperor of all rome was, himself, libya. this is pretty amazing. born right here.

someone chipped off all the -- not that i was looking. anywhere else in the world this place would be overrun with tourists. but look, no one. you're free to wander as you wish. >> quite a backdrop, you know? you see a little dinner theater production of our town a couple thousand years ago. not bad. >> the only other visitors today are libyan boy scouts. bizarrely enough, gadhafi, himself, was once a scout. this was only one of the organizations allowed to remain independent of the government. >> maybe i should go down there and introduce myself. exchange some boy scout lore. yes. yes. i was once a boy scout, too.

>> drilled into their heads is something that was long ago drilled into mine. >> i promise to be trustworthy, loyal, helpful, friendly, courteous, kind, obedient, cheerful, brave, clean and referent. ♪ >> you know, it's been a really

difficult shoot for a whole lot of reasons. it's not easy to shoot here. but in spite of all that, for me, this was a happy show. >> libya, was supposed to be the bad guys, a bad country filled with bad people, right? i don't think so. i met a lot of really nice people here. nobody's saying we're going to be perfect tomorrow. everybody seems to be saying, you know, look at us in five years. a pretty reasonable attitude. this place is filled with extraordinary people who have done an extraordinary thing. on very short notice. under very difficult circumstances and at a very difficult time.

who are continuing to do the best they can, and i wish them well. we don't know precisely what happened. >> oh my god. he's been shot. >> the president of the united states has been shot. >> i could see it through the view finder. even now. >> an inch from his heart. >> he was minutes away from not making it. >> who is the shooter? >> he says, if you know about that, you know about everything. >> a bizarre motive. >> he felt the relationship was real. >> he was a really severely disturbed person. >> and his crime changed history. the shooting of ronald reagan. next.