tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN August 17, 2013 4:00pm-5:01pm PDT
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that. she had that cute little smile. she gave me a hug. she didn't really talk too much about it. i just kind of let her lead. >> two days after her rescue hannah started talking. as many kids her age do, online. she said, she feared for her life. he had a gun and threatened to kill me and anyone who tried to help. and that she's glad he's dead. he deserved what he got. then on instagram. a message of hope and healing. god gives his toughest tasks to the strongest soldiers.
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peru a country historically driven mad, mad for gold, for cocoa, for ancient history. now something else is drawing outsiders to the hidden valleys. we love this stuff, obsess about it, gorge on it. i'm talking about chocolate. what is a common treat is now becoming as nuanced as fine wine, making the pursuit of the raw, good stuff all the more difficult. i'm joining that hunt in remoteest peru but not before i have re-immersed myself in the booming lima food scene.
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i'm in peru with this guy. >> the guy look agate this went into the tree. >> excellent. >> chef of the world famous restaurant in new york. to look at where chocolate comes from particularly our chocolate. the very expensive, limited run designer chocolate bar business that eric got me into last year.
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that is why we're in peru. before we get all indiana jones we're spending some time in lima as we like the capital city just fine. and we have both of us from previous trips friends here. lima is the cultural hub and culinary capital of a country that has exploded in the last decade with scores of world class chefs and cooks and restaurants. it has long been considered one of the best food scenes in all of south america. >> looks good. >> how far away is the house? >> five minutes. >> one of our friends here is chef and restaurant owner, one of the best, most successful chefs in the country. his family is something of a beloved culinary dynasty in peru and this small fishing village about an hour south of lima is where they spend their weekends.
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his mom is like peru's julia child, james beard rolled into one. >> thank you for having us. >> a caterer, cookbook author, beloved icon of peruvian gastronomy. to say one is fortunate to enjoy her hospitality would be an under statement. warm, generous, welcoming beyond belief. >> normally we have lunch late like 5:00. >> do you nap before lunch or after? >> both. >> wow. look at this. every weekend she opens the house to an ever changing mob of visitors, friends, and family. they do not skimp on the food. delicious, delicious things pour
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out of the kitchen. >> wow. >> a torrent, deluge of traditi traditional favorites. >> we love avocado. >> okay. >> this is from the coast. >> beautiful. >> basically raw king fish fillets dressed with lime juice. >> perfect. >> fresh scallops, lemon juice, garlic. drum fish beretsed in exactly the same -- >> very spicy. >> oh, and stuffed peppers filled with ground beef and raisins served with cheese.
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that's just the beginning. so much more food there is no way we can show it all. it is incredible, overwhelming, fresh and delicious and thrillingly different than what i'm used to. >> i may get out of the chocolate business right now, put up a pup tent on the porch and dig in for the duration. this is living. >> this is so fresh. >> what if you are a next door neighbor? >> so good. >> so has peruvian cuisine always been this diverse and delicious and we're just discovering it or has it changed over the last 15 years? >> it is changing anyway. what you're eating now is traditional food. >> there are so many products in peru that are unfamiliar to people in the states. when you eat this food it's not like, well, this is something like -- it is not kind of like
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anything. >> what do you do when you're traveling and you're home sick for peruvian food? >> we take some in the luggage. the perfect smugglers. >> i believe you do it. i hate to say good-bye to this but it is what it is. things to do, places to go. wild and apparently extremely rare trees to visit. ♪ >> if the people are anywhere near this nice on the rest of the trip it is going to be okay. lima, city of kings, hope to a
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third of peru's people. locals escape by hanging out at the beach. why not when you can maybe get a tatoo while you're at it. is that sanitary? >> you've been here before. >> oh, yeah, man. >> we head over to see chef javier wong. uniquely nonconformist seafood specialist famous for his incredible and uncompromising food and flaming wok. if peru has a national dish it's probably this. the freshest fish only means the right cut, a little citrus, and no heat.
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what is the most common thing people do wrong? >> don't serve something not fresh. the cut is very important. the thickness. >> right. >> and you don't do too much. >> the whole place is served whatever menu he is doing that day. same for everybody. today the flounder he got from the market is particularly nice. so that's what we're getting. generally thicker pieces to stand up to the spices and acids. >> i don't know what to tell you, man. it's that good. >> it is good. >> have you ever been spanked in your life and enjoyed it? we need it. i don't like pain. exce except -- the pepper.
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>> that's really hot. >> the flounder dressed with pecans, lime, and sesame oil which clearly eric likes. >> this is totally good. >> really. you're not like foraging in the catskills for your inspiration? you basically just rip your ideas off small businessmen? >> superb. >> can i prepare you one more? >> sure. >> chinese and japanese immigrants came to peru in great numbers in the 19th through 20th centuries as contract laborers and farmers and their influence is felt here particularly in the food, to a greater degree than anywhere else on the continent. it is that influence and the ingredients of amazonia and and des that distinguishes the food
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as something special. >> what is this? >> this is a very good combination. is that pineapple? where did that come from? that is not traditional. >> it looks asian to me so i believe it is probably -- >> his name is wong. i mean, unless he is a retired important star. this shouldn't be good but it is. working up a sweat on that one. might have a couple more beers after this. then have a nice nap. day nap. the great outdoors... ...and a great deal. thanks to dad. (gasp) nope. aw! guys! grrrr let's leave the deals to hotels.com. (nice bear!) ooo! that one! nice!
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one more day in lima. a chance to delve a bit further into the cuisine before things get a little more old school. >> like cilantro that is long lived. much more powerful. it would be wrong to point out peru along with brazil is at the forefront celebrating a unique larder from the andes and the amazon, flavors you find no place else on earth. >> there seems to be a lot of interest in the last decade in the amazon because it's an amazing spectrum of entirely new to most of us flavors and
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ingredients. pedro escontino is at the cutting edge of that territory. his restaurant explores the ocean, rivers, landscape of peru. highlighting a range of products stunning in diversity and to us anyway in newness. >> whoa. >> this one, you've got tuna, bread fruit, cashew sauce. >> the scallops with the wild almond. >> very soft. like the flavor. it complements well. >> this one is fresh water shrimp made of fresh water shrimp. >> whole different flavor spectrum. all new. >> almost like you need a new section of your tongue. >> so exciting because they have basically an amazing garden in the amazon. >> that looks good. >> this is made of ham with peanuts and corn.
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>> i enjoy these cocktails, too. >> we'll be wasted. >> we'll be fine. whoa. >> this is on the leaf. the fish is cat fish. in the amazon we have 200 types of cat fish. >> it gets flavor from the leaf, too. >> here we have the second biggest fresh water fish in the world. underneath you have a puree, a fruit, and a sauce, a reduction of fermented wild yucca. this is actually toxic or -- >> poisonous. >> yeah. poisonous. with this you can eat it. >> these fish are unbelievable. they get up to 600 pounds and swim in water no deeper than a rice paddy. >> really. >> giant. they're like dinosaur fish.
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everyone has been saying for years that peru is going to be the next big thing as far as west -- >> it is. >> we also have chile pepper made with these ants. >> they're huge. >> huge ants. >> okay. >> try it? totally. >> you're not loving that are you? >> no. >> imagine, you took acid and then ate that whole ball of ants and you go home and experience violent diarrhea and like you're tripping, it's 4:00 in the morning and you turn around and you look at the toilet and you're like ants' heads floating in there. it would be cool. >> super cool. i can't wait. >> so now that we've confirmed what we already knew, that peru's food is unequivocally awesome, it seems proper that we take a trip back in time to meet
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the forebearers of this country's rich, cultural legacy. the museum in lima has a massive collection of precolombian artifacts. looking at them you get an idea of what these ancient peoples were like. how they lived. >> wow. this is the real stuff. >> i think so. gold necklaces. you see why the spanish just freaked out when they came here. turned like maniacal greed heads. but history does not have to be boring it can be sexy. i don't know whether you knew this but i am an expert on early erotica of precolombian and post colombian eras like pottery of people doing it. >> yeah. i should have known that. >> turns out things could get
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pretty interesting back in the day. hoerk yeah. those guys could get crazy. get wild. and apparently very kinky. your erotic gallery. there you go. that's a conversation starter. >> i take eric to the precolombian boning section. actually the erotic pottery section. >> slipping her the tongue. >> amazing. >> about as much fun as an all new renaissance fair but actually pretty cool. nothing new under the sun these precolombian horn dogs didn't think of first. >> i'm not sure i understand this one totally. >> i think we frown on that these days. oh, they're doing it under a blanket. this must be after the spanish arrived to teach them shame.
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ooh. skeletons with boners. >> they are zombies. >> oh, getting zombie old fashioned? >> i really appreciate your knowledge. >> was this decorative or really important? >> probably had it in a closet somewhere or something. >> i bet this was right out on the table. come on in. have a cup of tea. sit down. here is some animal on animal action. pretty awesome. >> yeah. this is interesting. yeah. i'm happy we made it here. that was an enlightened moment.
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>> something about steamy, triple x precolombian erotica always makes me hungry. luckily at night lima comes alive with the smell and the familiar, enticing sound of sizzling meat. it's time for delicious, screamingly hot garlicky, spicy, flavor jack sweet meats. as anybody who knows me is well aware, i love me some sweet meat. >> the street food in peru is starting to disappear. >> why? >> because the neighbors complain. >> our friend brought us to this place. it's a speed stall named for the lady who runs the joint. they specialize in one thing. skewered meat. this stuff they say goes back all the way to the incas and was
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as immediately popular with the spanish as it is today. >> that looks good. which is to say, i must have some. traditionally a mix of beef hearts and other animal parts. >> chicken hearts. gizzards. >> mariner ated in garlic, cumen, maybe vinegar. grill it up and pile it high. >> mountains of food. >> okay. >> it does not get any better. >> voila. good. man, that's awesome. >> yeah. right there. >> the marinade is nice. something for you. chicken heart. >> hum. that is seriously good.
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mountains to find our trees. chocolate. i mean, we know we like the stuff, but how is it made? where does it come from? columbus was the first european to encounter the beans on a mayan trading trip off the coast of honduras. he is said to have grabbed both crew and cargo and brought them back to spain. a few decades later a spanish conquism stador came across aztecs using the stuff in a drink considered the drink of the gods. like most delicious expensive things from abroad the largely inbred and syphylitic royalty did their best to keep the craze to themselves. it soon found its way to america and in 1765 the first factory foundry opened in new england.
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one stop for all things chocolate as well as just about everything else under the sun. >> man, you got your animal skulls. >> whoa. >> that is tempting. >> hair cut? >> i'm good. >> wow. >> cacao. >> this is the raw beans. >> that one is toasted. then she -- grinds it. >> then she puts it in. gracias. >> woo hoo. bitter. >> not sweet at all? >> no. >> they don't put sugar? actually here we are in the area of the market place where i believe they have santa marias. >> how shall i put it? let's just say he has more of a spiritual side than me. >> all you need for the shaman
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to bless the cacao. >> okay. >> he has us shopping for what i guess you call shamanic supplies. which place are we going to? i like the old lady with the sunglasses. >> medical, medicinal herbs with supposed magical properties and stuff for this shaman dude to bless us in our cacao crop. >> i need coco leaves. this one is amazing. supposedly will purify the house. >> smells like hippie. >> it is interesting. the shamans are very well respected in the agricultural region. they cure everything. >> good? >> yeah. our journey continues by road as we head east toward the andes. >> you go two hours north from here. you have the indians.
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>> with the little blow darts. >> yeah. >> before we get too deep into the mountains we're stopping off to meet our shaman. >> hello senor. anthony, he is going to teach us how to do this for the plants and for us. >> okay. [ speaking in foreign language ] >> he is cleaning all the negative vibrations.
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close your eyes. he cleanses you and wishes you a lot of success. especially in the neck, the back. that's it. in the chest. like that. >> we wanted a blessing for our cacao harvest. we got this. my aurora is now cleaner than gwenyth paltrow's colon after a three-month juice cleanse. to a successful harvest. >> yes. >> but we're not done. we have to transport this stuff to our trees and finish the job ourselves.
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>> i know you don't even believe it but there is a change. i'm serious. i'm not joking. >> listen, i'm not -- i have an open mind. >> eric and i are heading to the canyon, eight hours by car, well into the andeian highlands. on the way we stop for lunch and meet up with this guy. chris curtain, master chocolatier and our business partner in this knuckle headed adventure. one of life's great joys eating in a peruvian market. >> i like markets for breakfast. it's nice. >> basically a hen soup. that's good.
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where in the world does chocolate come from? >> well, 45% of course comes from the coast of africa. we don't deal in those beans because of the political situations. >> there is this stuff, special chocolate. >> yeah. >> which is pretty much what we're here to look at. >> yes, absolutely. >> where it comes from, what's involved. eric ate some of chris's chocolate, heard about these wild cacao trees he was sourcing from in peru and promptly got me involved in this designer chocolate bar business. i never really gave a -- about desserts. you on the other hand eat chocolate every day yeah. every day here we are. three men and a chocolate bar. good thing for the world or exploit ative tunism? yet to be determined. what do i, after all, know about chocolate? next to freaking nothing. >> good like that, right? like oliver twist there. yeah. we used to be like that in the
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the roads up into these mountains can be tricky. we got to take care of the local vigilante dudes who run a road block outside of town. it looks like a shakedown but they are a welcome sight. this hill where cars have to slow down is where all sorts of highwaymen used to waylay travelers like us so these guys stepped in to take care of business. wow. that was a big shotgun. that'll shoot through an engine block. i don't really know but i'm assuming. this time of the year is also the rain and mud which can mean flooded streets and streams that cut right across the roads. and there's this. the river. in the best of circumstances a fairly adventurous way to get
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your vehicles across. a long line across a fast moving current the ferry propelled only by the flow of water. but today the river is too high and the current too fast. it's these smaller boats or nothing. dealing with complex transportation issues, best thing to do is pull up with a cold beer and let somebody else figure it out. >> yeah. so let's go in the boat. >> to my crew, i say good luck. we're headed to what looks like a bar on the other side. let me tell you, it's quite a ride. >> i'll go last. >> hey, water inside the boat. the boat is sinking.
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you got to go down and then up just right. we make it to the other side reasonably dry. beer? the canyon is home to a wide range of species, including and most interesting to us, a strain of cacao previously thought to be almost extinct. a few years ago the valley's cacao trees were genetically tested at a usda lab and proven to have identical dna to the rarest forms of cacao in the world. this stuff. the real deal. pure. don fortunato is our cacao connection. a farmer whose families have
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been working these mountains for over 40 years. >> absolutely beautiful when they start out. really cooky pods off the tree. they look like someone glued them to the side of the tree. a once a year crop? >> it goes continuously but this is the peak season. >> stick one in your mouth. bite it. those are the beans where does chocolate come from? >> the bean. >> okay. here is where chocolate comes from. the trees produce pods. you split open the pods and take out the beans. the buyer sun dries the beans then roasts them. after roasting, the beans are extracted from their shells and ground up, producing chocolate liquor. mix this concentrate with milk, sugar, coco butter, and you get what we call commercial chocolate. now, our chocolate bar sells for
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a nose bleed price, high by even premium chocolate standards. so where does the money go? and most importantly to me and eric, are we doing a good thing? here's how it breaks down. the raw cacao costs one chunk. labor? the inner sleeve, this much. design, box, packaging, this much. various sundry equipment and miscellaneous another small chunk. chris, me, and eric each get a slice out of every bar. that leaves this much, which the retailer takes. chef bleeding heart hippie here as already convinced me to give whatever meager profits we make off our first bar to a local charity. so what's unusual about these pods, these beans? >> extremely high quality flavor. >> but not around for a while. >> this is what almost all chocolate was made of almost 20 years ago and now it is making a giant comeback.
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as a chocolatier this is a once in a lifetime find. >> about 40% of the beans from these trees have white kokkai beans mixed in. the rest are purplish in color. we've heard of a group of trees elsewhere further up the mountains that produce pods with a hundred percent all pure white beans. that's something me and eric are very interested in down the road. but for now, don's daughter johanna has prepared us a traditional peruvian mountain meal. >> oh, whoa. the rice dumplings with boiled egg, chicken inside. >> wow. >> this is amazing. >> and not surprisingly, some guinea pig of which there seems to be many around for the taking. this preparation served with a cacao sauce. >> oh, that's good. >> all of this food is
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delicious. so chocolate is a luxury food item, right? yes. >> this is an area that's abundant with coffee, chocolate, fruit. how is life for the locals? >> he says that 20 years ago, 25 years ago it was easier for him. it was plenty of soybeans and it was making much more money and then he didn't plant soybeans any longer and then the production went down so therefore he had a financial struggle for a while and now with the cacao trees they are planting he has no more stress.
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i'm in the maragnon canyon of peru with my friend in chocolate bars, chef eric. we are intrigued by the all wheat beans we heard about from don fortunato so we set up a meeting with another farmer elsewhere in the valley. we thought it would be a nice gesture given all the high test culinary talent between us to make him and his family dinner in return for his hospitality.
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what are you thinking? squaubs? butterfly marinade grill? >> we could do that. >> nice sausage. >> yes. sausage. >> which would be nice to throw in with stew. chicken, onion, pepper, maybe spice. >> potatoes. >> we're kind of moving into the spanish what is it called -- >> we can even do shrimp. >> shrimp and chicken works. >> that sounds like [ speaking foreign language ] >> you have 24? >> yeah. >> successful. >> yes. so far. wait until we arrive there. it's going to be interesting. >> don't be a downer, man. i'm optimistic. we arrive at the village where the fabled white cacao beans are said to be growing and meet with the village's unofficial mayor and our cacao former who will lead us to the trees.
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what was depicted as a short walk up a short inclined turned out to be an epic hump up one hill after another. >> when you tire up, you tell us. >> when i slump to the ground and urinate all over myself, that will probably be a tip that i probably want to stop. another reason i hate the swiss, mountains. >> i love mountains. >> eric, who grew up in the pyrenees, is up the slopes like a gazelle. me, i feel every year of my misspent life with every step. oh, geez. zbl this is cacao. >> are we there? >> no, no, we're not there. >> he's a baby. only 22 trees. >> i wish i could hear you over the sound of my exploding capillaries. >> okay. >> by the time we get near the fabled trees, i'm toast.
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gasping for air, waiting to puke from the altitude and the exertion. >> so, tell us again, what's unique about these trees? >> just because they are all white beans, all white. >> which is a rarity. >> so these are the only known all-white 100% pure. >> that's right. >> and why is that good? >> it's a new variety and gives new flavor profiles to it. >> a good one? i assume because i've humped up a -- >> excuse me. oh, nice catch. >> watch your fingers, man. yeah. that's it. >> there we go.
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and i'm going to repeat myself. >> all white. >> remember the shaman? well, we still have stuff to do with the package he gave us. we do, presumably, want a good crop. better get right with the spirit world. >> oh, geez. >> shaman juice thrown around, bury the purified soil and there you go, chocolate magnates. well, good luck, dude, to a good harvest. my asthma's under control.
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♪ the trip downhill unsurprisingly is a lot easier on me. time for me and chef ripert to get cooking. back to basics, wood fire, ingredients from the morning market and this old recycling system. here, fella. i'm ready for the chicken. and red wine. >> notice how i neatly maneuvered you into the chef job. >> now we have to make the mashed potato and we're good. >> eric's mashed potato secret, around 50% butter. ah, the glory that is france. i think they call it gout. okay. let's do it.
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>> gracias. >> you guys can cook. >> some say. [ speaking native language ] >> the only guy, he asked all the farmers of the village here to do exactly what he has done, so the farmers are starting to copy him. >> right. >> and he's happy because it's going to bring wealth, in the village, in the valley and the community. >> after don makes a traditional unsweetened hot chocolate preparation, ground cacao nibs, hot water. no milk, no sweeteners, no nothing. just like the ancient kings liked it. >> there we go. >> gracias. >> the real deal. >> only water, and they will use -- >> before chocolate hit europe. this is what the aztec kings would drink. >> they would be jealous right
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now. >> you'll get yours eventually. >> gracias. mucho gracias. salud. >> that's good, salud. >> salud. >> gentlemen, to education. >> yes. >> so, did we do the right thing? is it all right for two new yorkers to make money, however much, or however little, off the work of struggling farmers in a faraway land? fortunada, alberto, chris, everybody down the line, all the way to the families who pick the pods off the trees, seem pretty happy to be doing what they are doing, but do i want to be in the chocolate business? that's something i'm going to have to figure out. but for now one last thing needs to be done to fulfill our shamanic obligations. >> guys, you need to get out. the guy is coming with his bike, and he doesn't care.
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>> a bridge, a bundle of eucalyptus leaves, a badly working lighter, got to get right. do you have a lighter? >> we need to burn this stuff and pass it around our bodies three times. >> got something. >> oh, too moist. oh, you got it, man. >> okay. >> smoking. >> that's smoking. i'm going to get it. hold on. now i've got it. >> let's do it. >> okay. >> that's coming. i got it. we did it. >> over. >> okay. done.
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hey. we have a problem with chocolate, i tell you that. >> get him in the coffee business. ♪ people are lighting up all over the country. they call it the green rush. marijuana has moved out of the back alleys and into the open. >> happy cannabis, y'all. >> in some states it's legal to grow, to sell, to smoke. and marijuana could be legalized in a city near you. so easy to get, and many think so harmless. when the smoke clears, is marijuana bad for you? or could pat be good for you. >> marijuana is good
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