too old, too mean, and too dumb to change. so i can't say that i'm evolving or maturing or doing anything differently. same dick i was 13 years ago. it's easily the most contentious piece of real estate in the world, and there's no hope, none, of ever talking about it without pissing somebody, if not everybody, off. maybe that's why it's taken me so long to come here. a place where even the names of ordinary things are ferociously disputed. where does falafel come from? who makes the best hummus? is it a fence or a wall? by the end of this hour, i'll be seen by many as a terrorist sympathizer, a zionist tool, a

self-hating jew, and an apologist for american imperialist, fascist, cia agent, and worse, so here goes nothing.

>> i was raised without religion. one side of the family long ago, catholic, i think. the other side, jewish. i've never been in a synagogue. i don't believe in a higher power, but that doesn't make me any less jewish, i don't think. these guys sandbagging me at the wailing wall don't seem to think so either. >> only half. >> jewish? >> yes, so that makes me -- >> jewish. you need a bar mitzvah. you a righty. >> a right, yes. >> say this --

>> ooh. >> bar mitzvah. mazel tov. >> thank you, gentlemen. >> i've never felt so much like i'm masquerading as something i'm not. i'm instinctively hostile to any kind of devotion. certainty is my enemy. i'm all about doubt. questioning one's several in the nature of reality, constantly. when they grab hold of me in a totally nonjudgmental way, essentially, god's happy to have you. here you go, oh, man, you know? my treachery is complete.

>> just because i was raised outside the faith with no particular attachment or loyalty to israel doesn't mean that plenty of people on this earth don't hate me in principle. i know that. but the state of israel, i never really knew what to think. first look around, it's like everybody says. it's pretty. it's awesome. it's urban, sophisticated, it. like southern california, only nicer. then you see the young draftees in the streets and you start to get the idea. this is jerusalem. >> i'm taking you through damascus gate, which is one of the gates of the old city. these walls are pretty ancient. people say the deepest go back to king david, and then as history progressed, they built

up the walls so that the top there is the newest bit. >> by newest, you mean -- >> up to about the turks left here about 150 years ago. and the brits came and they conquered us. i wasn't here. >> born here, now cooking in london, he's the widely known respected chef and coauthor of the book "jerusalem." >> basically, this city was divided in two until 1967 where there was the famous six-day war, and the whole we're traveling in is east jerusalem, the palestinian part. that belonged to jordan. so now it's under israeli control. very controversial because for the jews, for the israelis, the city has been unified, but obviously, for the palestinians, they're under occupation as far as they're concerned.

>> we just have to go through with a falafel plate because it's so much part of the culture and contentious because jews and israelis make falafel their own, and everybody thinks falafel is an israeli food. but in fact, it's as much a palestinian food or more so because it's been done for generations here. and here, you get falafel that is deep fried. when i see it's got a few bowls left from the previous customer, i don't take that. i want them to fry it for me. that makes all the difference in the world. >> a whole different animal, isn't it? is there an historically viable answer to who made it first? >> one thing is clear that in this part of the world, it's been cooked for many, many generations. on the other hand, you get jews from yemen coming here. >> they can say, hey, my great uncle was in syria at the time. i remember it distinctly.

>> there's no answer to the question of food appropriation or who owns the food. we could go on arguing about it forever. >> the old city is divided into four quarters. there is muslim quarter. there's a jewish quarter. there is a christian quarter. and there's an armenian quarter. each one functions independently. but people who live in the certain area are all from that religion. >> right. >> so here you see these israeli flags over this house. so basically, jews have bought this house, although it's in the muslim quarter. that's very controversy because it breaks the separation people would normally expect in the city. now we're walking in the stipes of jesus christ, right? >> as i so often do. >> so this is viadolorosa, which was the last trip jesus did before he was crucified, so people are emotional.

they come here and feel like, i'm walking in the steps of mohammed, david, or jesus. like jesus was here. >> i feel like i should be more something. >> a little bit more pious. >> a little bit. well, it's too late for me. i'm -- great. get your own crown of thorns? >> yeah. >> in answer to the question, what would jesus wear? oh, no, no. you think you take off all your make-up before bed. but do you really? [ female announcer ] neutrogena® makeup remover erases 99% of your most stubborn makeup with one towelette. can your makeup remover do that? [ female announcer ] neutrogena® makeup remover. where would you go?iving away a trip every day. can your makeup remover do that? woman: 'greece.' woman 2: 'i want to go to bora bora.' man: 'i'd always like to go to china.' anncr: download the expedia app and your next trip could be on us. expedia, find yours.

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israel is bordered by egypt, jordan, syria, and lebanon. in 1967, after the six-day war, israel took control of the gaza strip, the sinai peninsula, the west bank, the golan heights, and east jerusalem. in 2003, israel began construction on a wall along the

green line representing the israeli-palestinian border. the wall now stretches 450 miles. when completed, it will span 700 miles. 85% of it in palestinian territory. on one hand, there's no doubt that the number of suicide bombings fell drastically. on the other, there's this. you cross from jerusalem into the west bank. also called judea, sumaria, also called palestine. since 1967, half a million settlers have moved here, all in contravention of international law. many in contravention of israeli law, though in effect, it seems to make little difference. they're here, and in ever-larger numbers.

this is one of our drivers from tel aviv who i asked about the graffiti on the house near the settlements. so what is price tagging? >> if something happens in a settlement or an attack with jews, kids in the settlement would come and have a price tag for every activity. they come to a palestinian village like this, they will destroy cars, write on walls like this. it says against arabs. state of israel is alive, and death to arabs. >> intimidating. you put two targets on my house, i'm moving. this is ely, a settlement with a population of over 3,000, relatively isolated from the rest of israel. this is the chief executive of the settlement and its former head of security. >> you can see from up above most of our town. you see the palestinian villages all around. >> it's an unusual situation.

a lot of your neighbors would very much like you to not be here. >> i know most of them, and most of them, they're happy we're here. because we actually, we gave them prosperity for the past 45 years. and wherever the plo game, they lost it. >> i'm guessing a lot of people would disagree with that statement. >> high-tech security, radars and cameras. >> so from the hardware, you can see anybody walking at night. you could see from pretty far out. >> yes. >> could you identify them after the fact? >> depends. we have our protocols we work with, and we had our successes. >> we drive to lebanon, another settlement a few miles away. hot, sun-bleached, suburban feeling.

behind its ring of electronic surveillance sensors and security, everything they feel they need. the school, public transportation, and a petting zoo. this man has lived here for 23 years. he's a wine maker and amateur cook. oh, pretty. wow. you're not kidding around. >> the salmon is marinated with pomegranate juice that on the season i squeeze pomegranates and squeeze the juice so i have it year round. >> where were you before here?

>> born in pennsylvania. >> your parents brought you over at 4? >> yes. >> living in the relative comfort and familiarity of pennsylvania, heading off to what must have at least in part of their minds been seen as uncertain. >> yes, it was very difficult for them. they say next year, part of prayers we say all the time. >> if i understand you correctly, the bible, it's all right there. it all happened here. that's sort of a nonnegotiable position. >> you see prophecies coming true. mountains that nobody wanted to live on, nobody dared to for thousands of years, nobody wanted this place. then finally we come here and everything is flourishing again. it makes you feel good, you know. >> you have been here since '90. you look over the edge there, an arab village right how far?

>> yeah, there is one that you can see from here. >> at any point during that time, do you ever go to anybody's house, sit down and eat? >> not there, but in other villages. >> ever sat down at a muslim table? >> muslim table? >> your host and everybody else -- >> coffee. >> not dinner? >> because i don't as a relicious jew, i eat only kosher. so they respect that. so they don't offer me. >> i have to ask you about something that troubled me coming up. the first house before you come up the drive to this village. the graffiti on the front. >> yes. >> the targets. spraypainted on. >> yes. >> who done it? >> villains. bad people. >> kids? >> i don't know. apparently, kids.

when we educate kids, kids are not able to understand complicated things. they see the world in black and white. when you get older, you're able to see the gray. and when someone hits you -- >> i understand why kids would do it. given what you told me earlier, identifying the perpetrators within -- within the realm of possibility. >> young people. >> why not paint it over? >> good question. i don't know. maybe we should. you're right. >> elsewhere in the west bank, just outside of ramallah.

meet betty and mona. two members of a group of women who call themselves the speed sisters. the first all-female palestinian racing team. >> hi. >> hi. i'm tony. >> hi. >> good to meet you. >> when i'm riding a car, i'm the happiest girl ever. racing. it's in my blood. here in palestine, it's very small. there's no roads, so when i drive, i speed. i feel free. >> did you find that people underestimated you at first? >> at the beginning, they would maybe make fun of us, but when we get good scores, we earn the respect. >> now they don't? >> yes. a lot of girls want to join us, the speed sisters, but some of

their families are very reserved. they don't like their daughters to be between men racing, you know? palestine is a very reserved society. >> so are things getting better, staying the same, or worse? >> you never know what's going to happen in palestine. one day, it's good. and the other day, it's just you never know. it's a crazy country. >> the local police would prefer them off the streets for obvious reasons. but the track here, such as it is, has its drawbacks. it's basically a parking lot across from the detention center. what do thaw think about this next door. do they ever give you problems? >> this is an israeli jail. one time we were here with speed sisters and there were problems because of the prisoners. so i just stopped my car over there, and i was walking, i wanted to see what was going on, and the israeli soldiers, they came running at me and started shooting at me.

i got shot in the back. it was tear gas. >> the canister hit you? >> yeah, so my speed sisters took me to the hospital. i fainted. >> have you thought of challenging the israelis to put up a team? >> i can't race because my car is palestinian. >> what if they come over here? >> they're not allowed to enter the west bank, and we're not allowed to go to jerusalem, so how can we race together? >> silly question.

it's right there for all to see. and it feels like something out of a science fiction film. this is the wall. from the other side, from inside this place, for instance, the refugee camp in the district of bethlehem doesn't feel like anything other than what it is, a prison. this is the founder of the children's theater center. >> so we're at the north entrance of bethlehem and heading to the refugee camp. >> so this has been here since

1950? >> yes, it started with tents. people were under the tents for about seven years. and later on, the u.n. saw that it was not as it was supposed to be, so they started building what they call shelters. >> first impressions of the camp, there's a remarkable number of kids. >> now it's about 6,000 people. and the two thirds are under 18 years old, so it's a very young population. unfortunately, with the continued degradation of the political and economic situation, we're in a situation where we have no playgrounds or green spaces anymore. >> children play in streets beneath walls covered in martyrs, plane hijackers, political prisoners. 6,000 people, of that number, 66% are under the age of 18.

i don't care where that is in the world, that's pretty much a recipe for unruly behavior, i think would be the best. >> well, especially -- yes, especially when you don't have any possibilities to evacuate the anger and stress in a creative way. so after i finished my studies, i came back here and i started using theater as one of the most amazing, powerful, civilized and nonviolent means to tell you story, be truthful, and this is for me the remedy to build peace within and hopefully help them think they can grow up and change the world and create miracles without grabbing a gun or exploding themselves, but to stay alive. >> abed takes me to the camp's martyrs quarter to be fed. she runs a women's collective offering palestinian cooking classes, helping to provide for six children, one of whom is disabled.

>> in america, kids grow up with pop stars, sports players. >> yes. >> never a politician. it's unthinkable for a child to look up to a politician or to look up to a military figure. sports or entertainment. >> yeah. >> here, kids, 4, 5 years old, every day, they're looking to somebody who, you know, brought down a plane. >> yeah. >> i'm not questioning why that is. >> i know, yeah. >> do you think it's healthful? >> well, i guess we have a history. we are people who are under occupation. people honor their heroes, and their heroes who are those who resist the occupation, whether they resisted it. and to tell you the truth, sometimes i have been in fight with some political parties when they put images of people who

were killed in their corner houses. a sister in the 29th of october, 2000, when she was killed in her kitchen by a sniper. but when these political parties take this woman and want to make a montage of photos with her carrying a gun to say this is the hero for the fight of the palestine, sorry, this is not true. this woman was killed in her house. you go today and ask the palestinians who is the great hero? you ask these kids who would they recognize? they would recognize the man from gaza who is an arab idol, a singer who sings. he becomes more famous that arafat and everybody else. this is another image of palestine.

>> you could almost believe for a minute or two that some kind of peace, some kind of reconciliation, meeting of the minds, sanity, is possible after you visit moshda. it's a restaurant in what looks like an idyllic village in the hills about 20 minutes from jerusalem. it feels like an alternate universe for a number of reasons. >> she is jewish. and yakub is muslim. they're partners, co-owners, and also married. they're unsurprisingly friends of yota. together, they grow and raise much of what's used in their kitchen. their food reflects both their different backgrounds and their

commonalities. >> we're going to spoil you now. >> here we go. >> so you grew up in istanbul? >> yes. >> where did you grow up? >> near the beach. >> near the beach? >> yeah. >> not the neighborhood. >> but we met in the neighborhood. and we worked together in hotin. >> how did that go down with the families? >> not wonderful. >> in the beginning, not so much. >> started with questions, answers, and slowly understand that we love each other and they can do nothing, so we continue. and they support us. >> this is your special fried eggs. >> farm eggs with peppers from

your garden, tomato. that looks awesome beyond words. >> it is incredibly beautiful here. i don't know why i didn't expect that. >> you know, a lot of people come and say it's like provence, like italy. and we say, no, it's not. >> you like it? >> i do. roasted tomatoes, okra -- >> onion and mint. what they do a lot here is char the hell out of it so it's really smoky just from being in a pan in high heat. >> so good. so generally speaking, who lives in this area? mostly arab, ethnically arab in this part of town? >> only muslim. >> only jewish. >> the only jewish in the village.

>> and this? >> that's zucchini that's been grilled and then we used fried yogurt. that's the sauce. it's that intense flavor. very particular to palestinian cooking. >> oh, man. that's good. i just had this incredibly delicious meal, completely oblivious to the fact it's entirely vegetarian. if any of the vegetarian restaurants in new york served food that tasted anything near this, i would actually -- >> go there. >> here maybe, i would consider it. and this? >> fresh zucchini with mint. >> and apricots. the sweet apricots we had. >> this food is intensely delicious. >> are you hopeful? >> of course, i have my children.

i need to save them. >> i respect television. she respects my religion and family, and together we can build something for our kids, for our future. that's what we think and give the message for our customers. >> part of the attraction of this restaurant, the fact it actually manages to do what not so many chefs try to do here, which is mix your jewish ethnicity or background with arab foods. stamps.com is the best. i don't have to leave my desk and get up and go to the post office anymore. [ male announcer ] with stamps.com you can print real u.s. postage for all your letters and packages. i have exactly the amount of postage i need, the instant i need it. can you print only stamps? no... first class. priority mail. certified. international. and the mail man picks it up. i don't leave the shop anymore. [ male announcer ] get a 4 week trial plus $100 in extras including postage and a digital scale. go to stamps.com/tv and never go to the post office again.

getting in and out of gaza from israel is truly one of the most surreal travel experiences you could have on earth. over 1.5 million people live in gaza. most of them considered refugees. meaning they're not from the place they're compelled to live now. in most cases, they're either prohibited from or unable to leave. israel decides who comes and goes. what gets in and what stays out. apart from journalists, aid workers, emergency responders, very few people are allowed to cross into gaza. in 2005, the israeli defense forces left the gaza strip and all israeli settlers were removed. now, inside gaza, hamas is in charge. considered a terrorist organization by both the united states and israel, they got elected in 2006.

this is leila hadad, a native gazan, journalist, and author of "the gaza kitchen." >> the catches are not as big as they used to be. that's primarily because the fishermen can't go beyond 3 to 6 nautical miles. >> you could continue fishing, what happened? >> they'll shoot at the fishermen, spray cold water at them, destroy their boats, cut their fishing nets, they'll detain them. it's obviously really risky business. nine nautical miles is where the deep-sea channel is where you get the really good catches. so gaza is the last palestinian area with access to the coast. that's really important to remember. you know, you have the west bank just an hour away, but many of the palestinians there have

never seen the sea, have never been to the sea. >> this family owns a small farm in an area in the eastern gaza strip. this woman and her husband are unusual in that they cook together. this is not typical in this part of the world or in this culture. they use their own fresh-killed chickens to make the gazan classic. makluba, a traditional palestinian dish of eggplant, potato, tomatoes, caramelized onions and chicken sauteed and then simmered with nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, and rice. it's a big family. children, grandchildren, all living under the same roof. and it can get chaotic. so let's talk about food and eat food because it's sitting here. tell me what do we have here? >> so this is called matluba.

traditionally made with lamb. in this case, chicken. no, no. they're very concerned that we're being very rude and we're not allowing the others to eat. we're saying, how could you be eating and not allowing the others. >> um, wow. >> for me, being from gaza, being a child of diascra, i always thought food was a really interesting way to tell the palestinian story. being able to discover this lost history, this palestinian past. plus, the food is really damn good. >> that it is. >> and it was, i think, also important to be able to provide palestinians an image of themselves that they recognize, of their humane image, because all they're seeing in the media, whether here or there, on arabic channels or abroad are these caricatured images of gunmen and this grind, cinder block landscape.

you're not entering into the private homes. what does a kitchen look like, or what does a family you see here? yeah. do you like it? >> absolutely delicious. really, really good. >> she wants you to open a restaurant for her. >> keep cooking like this. it's really delicious. >> it has three distinctive culinary heritages. those who hail from villages that were either depopulated or destroyed in 1948. and they constitute about 75% of the population. and they kind of bring with them their own distinct cuisine. that's very different from the cuisine of the city, gaza city, which tends to use much more heat, different from the coast, which uses seafood, which is sophisticated and urbane.

>> in your lifetime, i guess the question will be, in your lifetime, will you be able to visit yaza? >> she says, you know, she hopes she can. she also hopes she can go to jerusalem as well. she's optimistic, yeah. >> what? >> first he said you're not allowing us to. then he self-corrected and said the israelis are not allowing us to. >> go, go. >> this is the normal tone of voice. he's not upset, by the way. this is how we talk. we don't yell. >> what is he saying? >> he said, give me a permit. if they allow me, of course i

go.

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that's the reason i'm here. leila's got something to show me.

her watermelon salad thing that she discovered on a trip here that piqued her interest. so off we go. i figured this would take a minute. we arrive at what looks like a pretty serious gathering. this is a dua. and we're joined by abu. >> it's an area where the elders gather to, you know, resolve community problems, to, you know, kind of advise. >> all these guys are originally from part of israel. so they're bound together by traditions and a way of life very different from here, where they have been relocated and lived since 1948. does he think he'll be able to go to his ancestral homeland in his lifetime? his children's lifetime? what's his guess?

>> whether now or in 100 years? preordained, yeah. >> this enemy back me. we kill him. and we understand that. we hope, not me, my son, my daughter. >> so what they're making now is basically baby watermelon, underripe watermelon. this is kind of a specialty of southern gaza, but also sinai. usually something that's made exclusively by men, as i was told here. they begin, they're fire roasting the baby watermelons. they cover them with aluminum foil, in addition, they put them through wire, like a rustic skewer, and then yeah, they throw them in there. and then the idea is, they take the pulp out so that's what's going on. hey, mama. come here.

yeah, and then what they do while that's fire roasting is they knead an unleavened dough over there with whole wheat, barley, plenty of really rich extra virgin olive oil. and then they throw that into the pit as well or they dig a bit in the sand and that's fire baked. >> right in the coals? >> yeah, and they mix it all together. so it's interesting because right now, we're about, what, 35 minutes away from gaza city? ask anyone in gaza city if they've heard of this dish, and no. even in the area as small as gaza, you see this wide variation. they're going to clean it up. >> many, if not most of these

>> many, if not most of these guys, are not too sympathetic to my country or my ethnicity, i'm guessing, but there's that hospitality thing. anywhere you go in the muslim world, it seems, no matter what, you feed your guests, you do your best to make them feel at home. >> we have to eat. you're supposed to eat this with your hands. um, very good. >> they're saying if you eat this, you shouldn't have another meal for three days. >> where does this dish come from originally? >> this is a dish that is native to southern gaza, the sinai, sort of the desert bedouin

areas. >> all of the food so far i have had in gaza has been different than anywhere else in the arab world. a different food spectrum. >> yeah, kind of like its own gastronomical bubble. i find the food has more flavor. i get a better sensory experience. even children, they like to eat with their hands. he's saying god gave us hands to eat with, not spoons. [ male announcer ] this store knows how to handle a saturday crowd. ♪ [ male announcer ] the parking lot helps by letting us know who's coming. the carts keep everyone on the right track. the power tools introduce themselves. all the bits and bulbs keep themselves stocked.

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one can be forgiven for thinking when you see how similar they are the two peoples, both of whom cook with pride, eat with passion, love their kids, love the land in which they live or the land they dream of returning to, who live so close, who are locked in such an intimate, if deadly, embrace, might somehow, some day figure out how to live with each other. but that would be very mushy thinking indeed. those things in the end probably

don't count for much at all. natan runs a restaurant just seven miles from the gaza strip. you and your family have paid the worst imaginable price. >> yes, my daughter was killed by a mortar sent by hamas. >> in some israeli towns, some villages within close proximity of the gaza strip, bus stops double as bomb shelters and air raid sirens warn of incoming missiles fired from less than a mile away. rockets and mortar shells have been known to fall from the sky in these parts and no one understands the consequences more than this man. you were not a fervent idealogical scientist? >> no. >> not an orthodox jew? >> no. yet here you are at the spearpoint. this is your restaurant, here's a shelter. here you are.

>> after the death of my daughter, i just start to talk. to whom? to people who want to listen. i know that my daughter was killed for no reason. and i know that people in the other side had been killed for no reason. children, old people. i saw them in gaza. i saw very poor people. i know there is interest in keeping the poor people. you can go far, far, but the bottom line is, let's stop with the suffering. >> you know, i went to the settler community -- >> nice people. >> and i said to you, you know, they were nice. you said, you said, what did you say? they're all nice. >> they're all nice. i know, nice, very nice palestinian people.

>> they're all nice, but if you scratch, if you push, they all -- they'll all say throw them in the sea. >> most of the people, they don't talk. they are very upset. they are fed up. and the same goes for the other side to us. you have to find the right people in both village, also on the down, also on the up, and maybe they talk. and i am sure that is possible. >> the opportunities to do that here are very, very, very limited, it seems. >> i agree. >> and i mean, when does it even have to speak metaphorically because there is an actual wall. >> that is a wall. >> or a fence, depending on who you're talking to. >> fence or wall. oh, it's a big wall.

it's ugly. really ugly. you can see it is not far away from here.