>> not a bad punk song. but talk to me when someone wears a tunic adorned with anderson cooper faces. until then i'll consider myself the reigning rock god "the ridiculist." that does it for this edition of 360. thanks for watching. [ singing in spanish ] ♪

>> i was still slightly impressed by beautiful vistas. you know what i mean? ♪ ♪ ♪ oh, the story book kingdom

of grenada. one of the oldest, most complex, magically surreal places in spain and one of the most beautiful. grenada is tucked against the sierra nevada mountains in southern spain. it's not like barcelona. it's not like san sebastien. it ain't madrid. any reasonable person who looks at spain comes to spain, eats in spain, drinks in spain, are going to fall in love. otherwise, there's something deeply wrong with you. spain's a sort of place that never really made any sense, anyway. and in the very best possible way. this is the country that gave us the spanish inquisition. also anarchy. this is where devout ath lickism mixes with surrealism. modernist cuisine with traditional tapa. the effects and influences of all those things are right here

to see. >> you almost look back through time and through the mists of history, see the phoenicians marching up across the vega. or are those ferrel hippies. >> hippies many of whom appear to have set up squats in the caves in the mountains make things interesting. >> they asked if they were staging the moon landing. >> wherever you are on the ideological spectrum, however, some things are constant it seems. some stereotypical expectations. it's true, there are free tapas everywhere. yes, they do actually take siestas, which is a civilized damn thing to do as far as i can see. flamenco, they do that also. but in grenada they do it old school. oh, yes, and bull fighting. they do that, too. but i digress.

i'm here actually to answer a question. what happens if you go over to the other side? say you grew up in the states and like a lot of us wondered, fantasized about what it would be like living abroad in old europe, surrounded by crusader castles, delicious food, another language, another culture. what would that alternate life, that road not taken be like? my long-time friend at cameraman from maine, zach zamboni, is finding out. >> where are we going? >> right here. one of these tables. which maybe we want to do like this with. see, how often do you get to go out with somebody who can really block the table. >> it's misery is what it is. >> oh, yes, of course. >> snails in an almond sauce. about as traditional and delicious as it gets. >> that's a plate full of perfect happiness. >> good tapa, huh?

>> that's right. tapas come from here. this is still one of the few places in spain where they're free. all you have to do is keep drinking. >> you can sit here all day. just order a couple drink. >> no rush. we plan on spending some time here. >> red wine ordered, tripes to follow. tender, spicy, delicious tripes. >> sun, plaza, guts. pretty good. >> hello. hello. >> not too long ago, before zach basically defected to spain, he met fuen. the next thing you know, he's living here, part of an extended andalucian family. eating the ham, drinking the wine, living the life of the spanish dandy in freaking grenada no less. >> do you want a nice, caring, sensitive, thoughtful guy? >> it depends on the woman first. but usually we look if for this kind of person that we know he will protect us. >> from what?

ferile hippies? >> for example. >> i would love to do the vows at your wedding. do you, zach zamboni do you swear to protect fuen from ferile hippies who will attempt to steal her jewelry or other things of value. >> i figure now that zach is marrying into a spanish family i can piggyback along for this. suck up a little of the magic. live a little bit of what has often been my dream, too. >> but if we can get weird for a second here, man. >> oh, boy. >> some places do they have an energy, man, about them? >> what are you saying, man? >> you know, i don't want to get into the metaphysics, but some places we go -- >> you're going to be living up in the cave you keep talking like this. more wine. >> to see spain, to see it straight, to understand it at all, you should probably peek if

only through spread fingers at that most spanish of traditions. bull fighting. meet alfande, one of spain's most dashing and respected bull fighters. he's invited me to la marquesa's ranch, a private bull ring where he likes to practice. >> so what are you going to do now, you're going check how brave. >> and if the calf's not brave? >> along with me for the day, alejandro who like many spaniards consider bull fighting an art. today a little practice first. and don't worry this, guy is too young to fight. ♪

>> the red cape is the most important thing. where they make all the art, all the poetry. >> why the cape not the man? >> because it's moving. >> so that's important. >> that's important. >> you don't want to be moving. >> you don't want to be moving at all. it seems they get more upset. >> this guy clearly has spirit. right away he tries to take a poke at zach's femoral artery. promising. >> i don't think so. >> sure. you and him. he's going to teach you. >> yeah? >> sure. >> no one likes to look like a pussy on tv. when he suggests i join him in the ring to wave a red cape at an aggressive young bull who just tried to charge my cameraman i said what any idiot would say. si.

it all starts well enough. hey, this is fun. this is easy. who! >> until i get a horn hooked right up next to my nut sack. then it's not so fun. >> thanks, guys. >> this youngster shall live, perhaps to gore future tv hosts with his mighty horns. now, this, this is what a real bull looks like. this is a whole different thing. 500 freaking kilos of aggressive, charging, four-legged kill dozer aiming at your meat and two veg. >> a lot of muscle. >> that's a lot of muscle. that's a big bull. ♪

♪ >> no matter how big, how strong, how scary, for this intrepid reporter who's seen many animals die for his dinner, this part is never easy. >> so as you see, he puts the cape lower so the bull brings the face forward, showing the neck. that's it. that was very good. and yeah, that's it. >> okay, it's time for stew.

bull stew. our friend went to a better place after all. like a big pot where he simmered slowly for hours with local herbs, onions and potatoes. nothing like a roaring fire and a spread of ham, hour made chirrizo, spanish cheeses, bread and good olive oil to take the sting of of a near genital mutilation. >> nice. >> looks good, huh? it's a good place to come, right? >> oh. >> now, you started at age 19? >> if you were a little boy growing up you aspired to be a bull fighter.

>> exactly. >> the matadors were the original rock stars, the very ideal of masculinity, male beauty and grace. that runs deep. like it or not, you should probably know this before dating a spanish guy. me, i'd happily see an end to it tomorrow. but there is no denying the terrible beauty of a very complex tradition. >> it's not about winning. it's not about killing the bull. nor is it about being just skillful. no, no, you have to look good doing it, too. >> yeah, that's right. >> are there any really ugly ass bull fighters? like a really out of shape? a little with a muffin top. how do you call a muffin top? >> there's a little of everything. >> interesting. well, it was an education today and a great meal. thank you. >> cheers. >> cheers. i was having trouble i was having trouble getting out of bed in the morning because my back hurt so bad. the sleep number bed conforms to you.

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♪ holy week, or semana santa as it's called, observed all over southern spain with a seriousness and a fervor you might not see elsewhere. ♪ >> the seven days leading up to easter, neither every city gets taken over by ancient processions. to an outsider it's an impenetrable vision. religious imagery and dimly remembered impressions of the inquisition.

>> okay. watch this. these guys got to get their painstakingly crafted massively sized and incredibly heavy and cumbersome float through the door, down the steps and out into the street. >> but the women who escort the virgin, they wear candles to light the whole way to the cathedral. >> pedro is another of fuen's brothers. when not working for an i.t. company at ireland he does this. he carries crushingly heavy religious floats. they're called castelleros and they devote months of training to this.

>> that's huge. >> it is huge. very, very heavy. very, heavy throne. >> the virgin float, about 3,500 pounds total, and precise dimensions that have to make it through the door just so. the bearers have to kneel, crawl along with it on their backs to get it through the door. and the main event, ready, set, up. [ cheers and applause ] ♪ >> let's face it.

i like a procession and all, but who likes a bunch of guys in hoods coming in your general direction? i don't. frankly, it creeps me out. time for a drink perhaps. this is tabernaculo, an easter jesus and mary themed drinking establishment where between drink you can ponder the agony of the christ but with sausages. >> is this like this the whole year? >> whole year. they have incense the whole year, eastern music the whole year. >> is it a place for quiet contemplation or a party week or both? >> both of them. >> throughout the course of the week, over 40 odd processions will creep slowly through these streets. there are different

brotherhoods, each with their own sacred colors, crests, insignia and so on. their medallions of particular christ images that adorn the bar. and frankly, they're kind of bumming me out. maybe it's just me, but when i'm getting a nice late morning buzz, i don't particularly want jesus looking down at me from like everywhere. >> how drunk can you get here? don't you feel a little guilty getting really drunk here? >> yeah, of course. >> morcia. this is one of my favorite things ever. >> try it. it's amazing. >> gaze away disapprovingly all you like, jesus, i am happy now. >> over looking grenada, the hillside is ridded with caves, many of them older than anyone even remembers. spanish gypsies have lived here in caves turned homes like this for hundreds of years.

♪ ♪ >> they call this ojuerga, an informal, intimate and spontaneous performance. what jazz musicians might recognize as a jam session. >> this is it, grenada. the only place in the world where you get to see real flamenco in a cave. >> this woman is an officianodo. our host, kuro, is a poet,

historian, and patriarch of the community here, an icon of the flamenco world. >> are more embraced by the culture here than most other places in europe? >> we have our own gypsies. those are ours, yeah. i can tell you three things that for sure we do here. we do flamenco, we do tapas, and we do siesta. >> you do them well. >> yeah. we know how to live, don't we? >> yeah. ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ ♪

♪ ole!

>> they dig deep for their material here. it means something. they're telling me something about themselves. >> what is the word "duende"? i've heard it. >> is it an emotional state or a technical? >> it is unhappiness unnecessary for great art? [ speaking in spanish ] >> you perform very well after a couple of this. >> i may not have one day but i have valentines.

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♪

nighttime in grenada. and it's time to pursue that greatest of spanish traditions, tapas. you may think you know what a tapa is. like if you've had small bites at some fusion hipster bar where they do a whole lot of little plates? that ain't a tapa. >> how often do you do this? >> five days a week. it's rare not to do this. but it's like on the weekend you come out for a bunch. week day you come out for one. >> this is latana. a little place run by brother and sister. one bartender, one cook. taking care of everything. >> tapas for that. >> so you're just paying for the one. >> exactly. >> if i were like a degenerate wino, i could still eat well as long as i could afford my wine i'd eat. >> cheers! >> let us put this theory into practice. with our first round of drink comes this.

>> this is tomato with bread, garlic, olive oil and blended. >> i could pretty much eat that all day long. >> that's right. tapas are free. it shouldn't work, but somehow it does. another drink, another tapa. >> tomatoes, olive oil, bread. >> yes. awesome. just amazing. >> so all i got to do is keep drinking and i'm going to eat like a king. >> keep drinking. although maybe you'd be interested in caviar here. >> really? that's not included with my -- >> that's the other point of the tapas. usually you have a few tapas and then -- >> you start to get hungry. >> exactly. >> they're just hooking you in. >> it's all a scam. >> it is a scam. >> a couple little nibbles next thing you know you're ordering 200 grams of caviar. >> caviar ain't free, my friend. delicious, entirely sustainable caviar from river sturgeon. >> you can come in and get this

or -- >> high cost caviar. >> you guys aren't going to eat the whole thing in one. i'm going to -- >> not even married yet. it's nag nag nag [ laughter ] >> let's do it. >> oh, tapas. what a novel concept. there's even a verb for it. tapayar, meaning to take tapas. as in if we go to tapayar some more we're going to have to elbow past this crowd of catholics here. >> is it extra insane because it's santo semana? yes, but it's always crazy here. the bar we're going is just on the other side. >> maybe we go around. >> with parades crisscrossing the city in every direction, the steady drum beat warns that your root is about to be cut off entirely for the next 40 minutes.

>> we can cross. we can cross. >> we have to go around. >> where? >> going around. going around. >> but we need to walk fast. >> pardon. pardon. gracias. >> people take their processions very seriously here. and aren't exactly accommodating to anyone who threatens to block the view. >> that was amazing. there they go. ♪ >> there is some duende in that music. >> there is. >> finally barnum two. oliver.

this place is always packed. beer, please. and with it comes a delightful tapa of mussels steamed in butter and olive oil. >> look at that. that's a great tapa. come on. this is what's different. >> right. >> people come in here and they will eat like this perfectly happy. perfectly content to forego the table, come out here and stand around and eat like this. >> when glass of wine comes with fried eggplant and honey. which sounds to me like it's moorish in origin. more wine accompanied by these delicious little clams. and the main event. >> now we are talking, yes. >> these longusteins are not tapas and consequently not free, but worth it at any price. >> they're so totally awesome. well, we did good work here. >> anything else, or shall we go on? >> let's move on. >> let's move on.

>> as this death march of tapas continues, things start to get a little weird. >> this is the story of my life. he doesn't do this at home, does he? >> no. no, thank god. no, i understand how you feel >> yes, good. >> finally. a little empathy. i do like the increasingly meta aspect of this show. i should really be live streaming. now we can really be interesting. >> finally, bar gallardo. just making it before closing. now let's be honest. we've had a lot to eat and drink at this point. some restraint needs to be shown. >> fried fish? >> okay, fried fish. >> little ones. >> little ones. >> then we're done. >> but instead, three more beers, three more tapas. geez. >> these are super good.

>> these are super good. >> i'm uncomfortable with the idea of something for nothing. >> right. >> it's not something for nothing. >> it's $3 for a glass of wine and something for nothing. >> yeah, but if somebody can get them to the u.s. this will take off. >> never. we will never have tapas go through america. never ever. you're looking to change the entire day from the minute you get up in the morning in america and nap in the afternoon? are you out of your mind? >> walk to my bar, i want to have a little beer. >> i want a golden unicorn that shits money. both of those scenarios are ch ut... over 20 million drivers are insured with geico. so get a free rate quote today. i love it! how much do you love it? animation is hot...and i think it makes geico's 20 million drivers message very compelling, very compelling. this is some really strong stuff!

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every store book kingdom needs a castle. grenada, it's got a good one. the aljambra. one of the most enchanted, inscrutable, maddening structureses ever built by man. built on top of fortifications by the nasared dynasty as history unfolded through tragedy invasion and conquest. >> from the outside it's very bare. all you see is these tiny windows. and it's projecting impenetrable. then you come in here. >> a bit mad about the place. the details and there were a lot of them, can obsess a man. plus it's a cinematographer so you can understand once you start to really look around how

that might get a grip on a guy whose profession is the intricate play between light and darkness. >> my theory is that they're trying to weave nature, calligraphy, symbols. >> symbols, what you can depict what this entire place is is geometric systems. >> yes. ♪ >> when the nazrit dynasty lived ♪ >> when the nazrit dynasty lived here it was a harmonious space, light, shade, water, the moon and stars were harnessed and glorified. >> i think nothing is random.

they came and laid out everything according to a plan. >> yes. >> this was a place for reflection. each element of design presumably intended to have effects both psychological and religious. >> cinematographer's paradise. because everything is about light and man. obviously they weren't cinematographers but everything is framing for them. >> how long did it take them to built this? >> hundreds of years. >> that's why it takes so long for you to get the shot? >> oh, snap. >> in the builder's time, engineers, astronomers, mathemeticians were like priests, magicians, possessors of divine knowledge of how the universe worked. >> did they want to contemplate nature or conquer it and control it? >> they were certainly trying to emulate it. all their mathematics really trying to find out how nature worked. particularly the square roots and repetition of pattern.

>> they saw mathematical patterns in the sky and on earth, the way water moved and rippled. the way things grew. the simple pine cone, a fern, a pomegranate. and they thought about the basic truths these things might represent. >> these symmetries can all be shuffled, spun on any point in the line again with themselves. so if you stretched them out, for them they pointed to infinity. >> understand all things. >> through contemplating sacred geometry. >> how did nature unfold, pattern itself? could the basic designs of nature, even if divine, be replicated in this magnificent structure? >> trying to solve the riddle of god here. >> exactly. ♪

an hour's drive from grenada, the mediterranean. unlike much of spain's coastline ruined by real estate speculators and overdevelopment, the coast around here and almaria is largely unspoiled. i'm on my way to the local version of a beach barbecue. working the grill, chef juan moria. he heads the highly regarded el quastro back in grenada. we're joined by another chef and some friends. some of that simple, yet magical samarejo on toast. dried tuna, flavor packed like

tuna phusciutto. >> quite spicy and bitter. >> oh, that's good. so good. >> spain is a beautiful country. we're not even eating yet and it's good. it's like a -- >> pate de morfia. >> that is like the best thing in the world. >> you want this whole thing? >> yeah. chocolate. this is the chocolate of the gods. >> some grilled octopus and sea breme and nice pork tenderloin. and my personal favorite, a

particularly delicious morcilla, fresh blood sausage. >> yes. i feel some blending coming on. sexual metaphor coming. beautiful. this feeling of -- oh, yeah. looking good. wow, look at that. a lot of fat. >> yeah, yeah. it's quite nice. >> those were happy pigs. lazy pigs. >> the ones we like. the ones we raise here. >> the pigs and the bulls are very happy here until they're not. >> truth. >> okay. enough of the work. let's eat. nice. [ speaking in spanish ] >> awesome. great meals. great great great great meals. this is the dream of all the

world. >> yes. >> the dream is to live in grenada. work in the morning have, a one-hour nap in the afternoon. at night go out and have that life. go out and see your friends and eat tapa and drink red wine and be in a beautiful place. to have this kind of music and this food and this kind of culture and look out the window and to see spain -- >> one thing. family. family is very, very, very important. >> right. see, he did it right. he's marrying into a spanish family in grenada. >> right. >> he's cheating, man. >> very. a smart guy. >> right. >> look. no one's going to dare dream of this because this is too much to dream for. this is extraordinary. an ordinary life in spain looks pretty good to me. ♪ i'm kind of seeing a...

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♪ the new swinging zamboni lifestyle. rise early, like 9:00 a.m. then it's down to the corner coffee shop. maybe a small breakfast like toast with tomato, pan y tomato. no more than that. light, simple. because there will be a lot more eating and drinking today, and you want to be ready.

by 2:00 p.m. he's made his way backup hill to mom's place. >> every day i come here for lunch. i walk in and she says get us two beers. so i'll get us two beers from the fridge and watch her cook. >> salud! >> everybody's home for easter. maria jose, zach's soon-to-be mother-in-law, eloy, that's dad, plus alejandro and pedro, the soon-to-be brothers in law whom you've will ever met. what this nice family doesn't realize is they aren't just gaining a son but also an annoying half drunk and extremely hungry uncle tony. >> and i know what happen here. >> yes. >> ham sitting there ready to be carved. >> he was able to cut the ham

before he proposed to my sister. >> i think that's a completely reasonable policy. >> eventually the appropriate hour for lunch approaches. >> so not to embarrass you publicly, but the main is not exactly the mediterranean of america. how is he adapting? >> he's more spanish than me. >> really? >> yeah. the first of the week he was i don't understand how you guys can take siesta. week after? i need siesta. >> it's interesting to see how you've made the transition. cheers. >> cheers. [ speaking in spanish ] >> first off, this. bacala salad. salt cod, egg, black olives, oranges, tomatoes dressed in olive oil.

remember, this is holy week. mauer jose is preparing recipe that is go back through the family so far that nobody knows exactly where they even came from. migas. another iconic dish of andalucia. referred to as the shepherd's lunch. born as a way to use hard bread and combine all the week's leftovers. i'm told every house in spain has a variation. what changes is what you put on it. today it's sardines, cod, chorrizo, melon and peppers. >> oh, man. that's a lot of good stuff in one bowl. >> yeah. >> so how often do you eat this well? >> every lunch is like this. >> every lunch of your life. >> every day i'm here. but lunch is -- >> big. >> big lunch, siesta. >> but i used to try to resist siesta. you can't do it here. society will not accept you not taking a siesta. but that's the flow of life here. >> that sort of begs the

question, then. while i'm busy hating you for your life, how often are you getting drunk a day? >> twice. one and a half. >> i don't get drunk any day. [ speaking in spanish ] >> that is so spanish by the way. everybody have a very distinct opinion that's completely different. this is a fact. [ laughter ] >> when my time comes, i pretty much want to die at a table like this. good work, zamboni. good work. >> zach, happy with the show? >> i hope i don't suck on television. >> dude, i'm sitting with a pretty low bar. i'm going to tell you this relaxed lifestyle, lounging around and eating and drinking and no nap is long enough for

me. life is good. i envy you, zach zamboni. and we're out. nice end. ♪ diplomacy can be so powerful, it can peacefully defuse the worst weapons of war. >> it seemed impossible two weeks ago, but new this morning, there is now a deal on how to proceed with syria's chemical weapons. i spoke on the phone with president rouhani of the islamic republic of iran. >> it was an historic moment, 34 years in the making. but does a phone c