[ singing in spanish ] [ singing in spanish ] >> i always feel slightly

depressed by beautiful vistas, you know i mean? ♪ ♪ ah, the storybook kingdom of

grenada. one of the oldest, most complex, magically surreal places in spain. and one of the most beautiful. grenada is tucked against the sierra nevada mountains of andalucia in southern spain. it's not like barcelona. it ain't madrid. any reasonable person who looks at spain, comes to spain, eats in spain, drinks in spain, they're going to fall in love. otherwise, there's something deeply wrong with you. spain is the sort of place that never really made any sense anyway. but in the very best possible way. this is the country that gave us the spanish inquisition. also anarchy. this is where devout catholicism mixes with surrealism, modernist cuisine.

christianity and islam shared space. the effects of influences of all those things are right here to see. you can almost look back through time and see the venetians marching up. or are those feral hippies? an influx of international hi y hippies have made things interesting. wherever you are on the ideological spectrum, some things are constant, it seems. some stereotypical expectations. it's true, there are free tapas everywhere. yes, they do actually take siestas. flamenco, yes, they do that also. but in granada, they do it old school. and oh yeah, bullfighting. they do that here, too. but i digress. i'm here to answer a question. what happens if you go over to

the other side? say you grew up in the states and wondered, fantasized about what it would be like living abroad in old europe, surrounded by crusader castles, delicious food, another language, another culture? what would that alternate life, that road not taken be like? my longtime friend and cameraman from maine zack is finding out. so where are we going? >> right here, one of these tables. maybe we want to do this with. see? how often can you go out with somebody who can appropriately block the table? >> ay, yes, of course. snails in an almond sauce. about as traditional and delicious as it gets. that's a plate full of perfect t

tapas. tapas come from here. this is still one of the few places in spain where they're free. all you have to do is keep drinking. >> you can sit here all day. order a couple drinks. >> no rush. i'm glad i'm spending some time here. red wine ordered. tripe to follow. tender, spicy, delicious tripe. >> guts. pretty good. >> hello. hello. >> not too long ago, before zack basically defected to spain, he met fuen. the next thing you know, he's living here. part of an extended andalucian family. eating the hand, drinking the wine, living the life of spanish dandy. in freaking granada, no less. >> classically, culturally speaking, do you want a sensitive, nice, caring thoughtful guy? >> well, it depends on the woman, first. but usually we look for this kind of person that we know he will protect us. >> from what? feral hippies?

>> i would like to do the vows of your wedding. do you swear to protect fuen sanchez from any attacks by cave-dwelling hippies? who attempt to sell her jewelry or other things of little value. >> i figure now that zack is marrying into a spanish family, i can piggy back along, suck of -- up a lure of the magic, live on what has often been my dream, too. >> if we can get weird for a second here, man. some places, do they have an energy, man, about them? >> what are you saying? >> you know, i don't want to get into metaphysics. >> you are going to end up living in a cave if you keep talking like this. more wine. to see spain, to see it straight, to understand it at

all, you should probably peek, if only through spread fingers, at that most spanish of traditions. bullfighting. meet alfandi, one of spain's most dashing and respected bullfighters. he's invited me to a ranch, a private bull ring where he likes to practice. >> so what you're going to do now is see how brave -- >> and if the calf is not brave, stew. >> arong -- along with me for the day, fuen's brother, alejandro, who like many spaniards, consider bullfighting an art. today a little practice first. don't worry, this guy is too young to fight.

>> you see the red cape, you know this is the most important thing, where they make all the art, all the poetry. >> why the cape? >> because it's moving. >> so that's important? >> you don't want it to be moving at all. >> this guy clearly has spirit. right away he tries to take a poke at zack's femoral artery. promising. >> he's going to teach you. >> no. >> sure. >> no one likes to look like a pussy on tv, so when he suggested i join him to wave a pink cape at an aggressive young bull, i said what any idiot would say -- si.

it all starts well enough. hey, this is fun. this is easy. until i get a horn hooked right up next to my nutsack. then it's not so fun. thanks, guys. this youngster shall live, perhaps to gore a future tv host with his mighty horns. now this is what a real bull looks like. this is a whole different thing. 500-freaking-kilos of aggressive charging killdozer aiming at your meat and two veg. it's a lot of muscle. >> yeah, it's a lot of muscle. that's a big bull.

♪ ♪ >> no matter how big, how strong, how scary, for this intrepid reporter who's seen many animals die for his dinner, this part is never easy. >> so as you see, he puts the cape lower. so when the bull brings the face forward, showing the neck -- that's it.

that was very good. that's it. >> oh, it's time for stew. bull stew. our friend went to a better place. like a big pot where he simmered for hours with local herbs and potatoes. nothing like a roaring fire, spanish cheeses, bread, and good olive oil to take the sting out of a near genital mutilation. >> it's not a bad place. >> he started at age 19? when you were a little boy growing up, you aspired to be a matador. the matadors were the original

rock stars, the ideal of masculinity, male beauty, and grace. that runs deep. like it or not, you should probably know this before dating a spanish guy. there is no denying the terrible beauty of the very complex tradition. >> it's not about winning. it's not about killing the bull. and nor is it about being just skillful. you have to look good doing it, too. are there any ugly ass bullfighters? a really out of shape -- a muffin top. how do you call a muffin top? >> we have everything. >> well, it was an education today, and a great meal. thank you. >> cheers. >> cheers.

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holy week. or semana santa as it's called. observed all over southern spain with a seriousness and fervor you might not see elsewhere. for seven days leading up to easter, nearly every city in andalucia gets taken over by ancient processions. to an outsider, it's an impenetrable montage of confusing, yet deeply evocative images. figures in dark hoods loom up from every direction.

spoke pots of insects, candles, religious imagery, and the crowds. flashes of goya, dimly remembered impressions of the inquisition. okay, watch this. these guys got to get their painstakingly crafted massively sized and incredibly heavy and cumbersome float through the door, down the steps, and out into the street. pedro is another of fuen's brothers, the youngest, and when not working for an i.t. company in ireland, he does this. he carries crushingly heavy religious floats. they're called casteleros.

they devote months of training to this. that thing is huge. >> this is very, very heavy. >> the virgin float, about 3,500 pounds total, and precise dimensions that have to make it through the door just so. the bearers have to kneel. crawl along with it on their backs to get it through the door. and the main event. ready, set, up.

♪ >> let's face it. i like a procession and all, but who likes a bunch of guys in hoods coming in your general direction? i don't. frankly, it freaks me out. time for a drink, perhaps. this is an eastern jesus and mary-themed drinking establishment, where between drinks, one can ponder the agony of the christ, but with sausages. is it like this all year? >> the whole year. you have incense all year. eastern music all year. >> is this a week for quiet contemplation and worship or is this a party week or both? >> both of them. >> throughout the course of the week, over 40-odd processions will creep slowly from these streets. there are different

brotherhoods, each with their own sacred colors, crests, insignia and so on. it's their medallions of particular christ images that adorn the bar. and frankly, they're kind of bumming me out. maybe it's just me, but when i'm getting a nice late morning buzz, i don't particularly want jesus looking down at me from, like, everywhere. >> how drunk can you get here? don't you feel a little guilty for getting really drunk here? >> of course. >> this is one of my favorite things. >> try it. it's amazing. >> gaze away disapprovingly all you like, jesus. i am happy now. overlooking granada, the hillside of sacramonte is riddled with caves, many older than anyone even remembers. spanish gypsies have lived here in caves turned homes like this for hundreds of years.

♪ >> they call this an jeurga, what jazz musicians might recognize as a jam session. >> this is it, granada. the only place in the world where you get to see real flamenco in a cave. >> alissia is an aficionado.

our host is a poet, historian, and a patriarch of the community here. an icon of the flamenco world. you see travelers, roma people are more embraced by the culture here than most other places in europe. >> we have our own gypsies. those are ours. we can tell you three things for sure we do here. we do flamenco. we do tapas. and we do siestas. >> you do them well. >> we know how to live, don't we? >> yeah. ♪

♪ ♪ ♪

♪

>> they dig deep for their material here. it means something. they're telling you something about themselves. >> what is -- the word what is duende? i've heard it. is it an emotional state or a technical -- >> no. >> is unhappiness necessary for great art? >> it's necessary, but magnifico. >> you'd have to think about that. >> you perform very well after a couple days.

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it's time to pursue that greatest of spanish traditions, tapas. you may think you know what a tapa is. small bites at some fusion hipster bar. yeah, that ain't a tapa. >> how often do you do this? >> i do it five days a week. it's rare not to do this. but on the weekend, you come out for a bunch. weekday, you come out for one. >> this is latana, a little place run by jesus and louisa, brother and sister, one bartender, one cook, taking care of everything. >> it's free. >> so you're just paying for the wine. >> exactly. >> so if i'm a wino, i can still eat well. as long as i can afford my wine,

i can eat. >> cheers. >> let us put this theory into practice. with our first round of drinks comes this. >> tomato with bread, garlic, olive oil, and blended. >> i could pretty much eat that all day. that's right. tapas are free. it shouldn't work, but somehow it does. another drink, another tapa. tomatoes, olive oil, bread. >> awesome. it's amazing. >> so all i've got to do is keep drinking. and i'm going to eat like a king. >> they'll keep feeding you. maybe you'd be interested in caviar. >> really? that's not included? >> that's not the point of the tapas. usually you have a few tapas. >> you start to get hungry. >> exactly. >> they're just hooking you in with this. >> it's all a scam. couple little nibbles, the next thing you know, you're ordering 200 grams of caviar. caviar ain't free, my friend.

delicious, entirely sustainable spanish caviar from river sturgeon. >> you can go into a place like this. >> some high test caviar. >> oh! >> you guys are going to eat the whole thing in one. >> sorry, is there something wrong with that? not even married yet, it's nag, nag, nag. let's do it. ah tapas. what a novel concept. there's even a verb for it. tapayar. meaning to take tapas. if we're going to tapayar some more, we're going to have to elbow past this crowd of catholics. >> is it extra insane? yes, but it's always busy here, man. the bast we're going is just on -- the bar we're going, it's just on the other side. >> maybe we go around. >> with parades crisscrossing the city in every direction, the

steady drum beat warns that your route is about to be cut off entirely for the next 40 minutes. >> we can get across. >> we have to go around. >> where? going around, going around, going around. >> we need to walk past. >> people take their processions very seriously here and aren't exactly accommodating to anyone who threatens to block the view. >> that was amazing, right? tell me there's not some duende in that music. >> finally, bar number two.

oliver. this place is always packed. beer, please. and with it comes a delightful tapa of muss else steamed in butter and olive oil. >> that's a great tapa. this is what's different. people come in here and they will eat like this perfectly happy. perfectly content to forego the table, come here, stand around and eat like this. >> the glass of wine comes with fried eggplant and honey. more wine accompanied by these delicious little clams. and the main event. >> now we are talking. these are not tapas and consequently not free. but worth it at any price. >> that's so totally awesome. we did good work here. >> should we go on? >> no, let's move on.

>> as this death march of tapas continues, things start to get a little weird. this is the story of my life. he doesn't do this at home? >> no. now i understand how you feel. >> yes. >> every day. >> good. finally. a little empathy. i do like the increasingly meta-aspect of this show. i should really be live streaming. that would really be interesting. finally, ball -- bar gallardo. just making it. we've had a lot to eat and drink at this point. some restraint needs to be shown. dude, fried fish. little ones. >> then we're done. >> and cheese. >> but instead, three more beers, three more tapas. baby lamb chops.

>> these are super good. >> these are super good. i'm uncomfortable with the idea of something for nothing. >> it's not something for nothing. >> if somebody can get demand for it in the u.s., this will take off. >> no, never. >> really? >> you will never have tapas culture. never. you're looking to change the entire day, from the minute you get up in america. nap in the afternoon. are you out of your mind? >> i want to walk to my bar, i want to have a little beer. >> i want a golden unicorn. both of those scenarios are equally likely. an alien species. reality check: a lot of 4g lte coverage maps don't really look like much at all. i see the aleutian islands. looks like a duck. it looks like... america... ish. that's a map. that's a map of the united states. check the map. verizon's 4g lte

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every storybook kingdom needs a castle. granada, it's got a good one. one of the most enchanted, inscrutable, maddeningly beautiful structures ever created by man. built on top of ninth century fortifications and added to and added to as history unfolded through wars and tragedy and invasion and conquest. >> on the outside, it's very bare. all you see are the tiny windows. and it's projecting impenatrability. but then you come in here. >> zach has gone a bit mad about the place. the details, and there are a lot of them, can obsess a man.

plus, he's a cinematographer, so you can understand once you start to really look around, how that might get a grip on a guy whose profession is the intricate play between light and darkness. >> my theory is they're trying to weave nature, calligraphy, symbols. these are all inscriptions, turned into graphics. >> depict words from god. >> yes, but what you can depict, and this is what this entire place is, is geometric systems. >> yes. >> when the nasri dynasty lived here, it was a harmonious space where light, shade, water, the transit of the moon and stars were harnessed and glorified. >> i think the best assumption is nothing is random.

they came here and laid out everything according to -- >> a plan. it was a place for reflection. each element of design presumably intended to have effects both psychological and religious. >> it's really a cinematographer's paradise. everything is about light and man. obviously they weren't cinematographers, but everything is framing for them. >> how long did it take them to build this? >> hundreds of years. >> that's why it takes so long for you to get the shot? >> oh, snap. >> in the builders time, astronomies, mathematicians were like priests, possessors of divine knowledge of how the universe worked. did they want to contemplate nature or conquer it, control it? >> they were certainly trying to emulate it. their mathematics were trying to figure out how nature worked, particularly the square roots

and the repetition of pattern. >> they saw mathematical patterns in the sky and on earth, the way water moved and rippled, the way things grew, the simple pine cone, a fern, a pomegranate, and they thought about the basic truths these things might represent. >> these symmetries can all be shuffled, spun on any point and they align again with themselves. so if you stretched them out, for them they pointed to infinity. >> we will understand all things. >> through contemplating sacred geometry. >> how did nature unfold, pattern itself? could the basic designs of nature, even if divine, be replicated in this magnificent structure? they saw the root of god here. >> exactly.

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an hour's drive from granada, the mediterranean. unlike much of spain's coastline ruined by real estate speculators and overdevelopment, the coast around here is largely unspoiled. i'm on my way to a moraga, a tradition in these parts best described as the local version of a beach barbecue. working the grill, chef juan andres moria. he heads the el claustro in granada. we're joined by fellow chef rafael luca. >> this is some good-looking food here. >> some of that simple salmareho on toast.

one of my favorite things. >> dried tuna, flavor-packed like tuna prociutto. >> it's spicy. and bitter. >> awesome. >> spain is a beautiful country. we're not even eating yet and it's good. >> oh, sweet. want mass. that is like the best thing in the world. >> the whole thing? >> this? yeah. chocolate. this is the chocolate of the gods. >> some grilled octopus, and some nice pork tenderloin. and my personal favorite, a

particularly delicious morcia, fresh blood sausage. i could just squeeze that. i'm telling you. sexual metaphor coming. beautiful. oh, yeah. looking good. wow. look at that. a lot of fat. >> yeah, it's quite nice. >> these were happy pigs. lazy pigs. >> the ones we like. >> the pigs and the bulls are happy here. >> the moment of truth. >> okay, enough with the work. let's seat. nice. >> awesome.

great meal. great, great, great meal. this is the dream of all the world. the dream is to live in granada, work in the morning, have a one-hour nap in the afternoon, at night, go out and have that life. go out and see your friends, eat tapa, drink red wine, be in a beautiful place. to have this kind of music and this food and the culture and look out the window and see spain. >> one thing. family. family is very, very, very important. >> right. see, he did it right. he's marrying into a spanish family in granada. it's cheating. >> very lucky. and a smart guy. >> right. look, no one's going to dare dream of this. this is too much to dream for. this is extraordinary. an ordinary life in spain looks pretty good to me.

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the swinging zamboni lifestyle. then it's down to the corner coffee shop. maybe a small breakfast like toast with tomato. no more than that. light. simple. because there will be a lot more

eating and drinking today and you want to be ready. by 2:00 p.m., he's made his way back uphill to mom's place. >> every day i come here for lunch. i walk in, she says get us two beers. so i get two beers from the fridge. >> everybody's home for easter. maria jose, zach's soon-to-be mother-in-law. aloy, that's dad. plus, alejandro and pedro, the soon to be brothers in law, whom you've already met. this nice family doesn't realize they aren't just gaining a son, but also an annoying, half-drunk and extremely hungry uncle tony. >> i know what happens here. >> yes. >> sitting there, ready to be

carved. >> he was able to cut the ham before he proposed to my sister. >> i think that's a completely reasonable policy. eventually the appropriate hour for lunch approaches. so, not to embarrass you, but maine is not exactly the mediterranean of america. let's put it that way. how is he adapting to the spanish lifestyle? >> he's more spanish than me. >> really? >> yeah. i think in the first week -- the week after. >> it's interesting to see how you've made the transition. >> cheers. >> first off, this. cod, egg, black olives, oranges, tomatoes, dressed in olive oil.

remember, this is holy week. maria is preparing recipes that go back through the family so far that nobody knows exactly where they even came from. migas, another iconic dish of andaluc andalucia, a way to use old, hard bread to combine all the week's leftovers. i'm told that every household in spain has a variation. what changes is what you put on it. today it's sardines, cod, churizo, melon, and peppers. oh, man. that's a lot of good stuff in one bowl. so how often do you make this? >> every lunch is like this. every day that i'm here. but lunch is -- >> big. >> siesta. >> but i used to try to resist siesta and you can't do it here. society will not resist you not taking a siesta. but that's the flow of life

here. >> that sort of begs the question here, while i'm busy hating you for your life, how often you get in a day? >> twice. one and a half. >> i don't get drunk every day. >> that is so spanish, by the way. everybody has a very distinct opinion. >> when my time comes, i pretty much want to die at a table like this. good work, zamboni. good work. so, zach, are you happy with the show? >> i hope i don't suck on television. >> dude, i think i'm setting a pretty low bar. i'm going to tell you, this relaxed lifestyle, lounging around, eating and drinking, no

nap is long enough for me. life is good. i envy you, zach zamboni. and we're out. since i was 14 years old, i always wore cowboy boots. maybe because my little boy role models were always the men in the black hats. richard boone, robert vaughn in "the magnificent seven." silent killers. men with pasts. men from somewhere else who found themselves in the great american west. a place where reinvention, a new life was always possible.