that's it for us. thanks for watching. "anthony bourdain, new mexico parts unknown" starts now. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com since i was 14 years old, i always wore cowboy boots. maybe because my little boy role models were always the men in the black hats. richard boone in "have gun will travel" robert vaughn in "the magnificent seven" "silent killers. men with pasts. men from somewhere else who found themselves in the great american west. a place where reinvention, a new life, was always possible. as long as you were willing to

kill for it. ♪ ♪ ♪ >> the western myth is pretty much captured the american imagination. none of us can escape it. for ages we identified ourselves with the image of the lone

cowboy, the perception of frontier values, self-sufficiency, rugged individualism, the freedom of wide open spaces. few places in america still manage to embody that mythic landscape of the imagination like the state of new mexico. what does freedom mean? it's different things to everybody, it seems. but something about this place manages to catch the overlap between a whole hell of a lot of very different cultures. old route 66 runs through new mexico like a collapsed vein right through sante fe and albuquerque. they must have seemed like magic once. families loaded in a massive chrome and steel chariots with powerful v 8 engines and took off down that blacktop highway. they slept in whimsical motor

lodges and bungalows, swam in kidney-shaped pools. then it all went redundant. route 66 was decommissioned, chopped up, largely forgotten. except by desperate and lazy travel show hosts. >> does anyone else at cnn do this, like drive around 10:15 at night looking for tacos? >> yeah, probably. >> i'll say. this is. the strip takes on a much more interesting look at night. you could imagine dennis hopper huffing nitrous and dismembering somebody over an unrolled tarp in any one of those sinister of-looking motel rooms. cool. >> hopefully tacos first. after you do the meth you aren't going to want to eat. in ancient times drivers would hang the testicles of their enemies on their rear-view mirrors. parking lot, the smell of mystery parts on a griddle? yes. >> could i have one asada, one

pastur and -- >> you might expect me to be eating talk coast for the next hour. >> comfort vistas, stay for the tacos.

>> 30 round per magazine of steel-jacketed destruction as fast as your finger can pull the trigger. you might well ask yourself, why the hell would anybody need a weapon like this? the ar 15 is one of the weapons most reviled by gun opponents. it's also america's favorite rifle. >> never thought i'd say that a guy from new york ace natural when it comes to shooting an ar 15 in new mexico but i'm impressed. >> as a nation, we love them. there are about 4 million in circulation. those are the facts. >> basically ar 15 are the semiautomatic civilian version of an m 16. the funny thing is that in relation, this gun is almost identical to this gun. but this is the one that's evil. shoots the same caliber, same magazine capacity. just looks a little different. >> i'm an east coast guy. i'm a new yorker. but culturally i come from a place where glimpse a weapon

somebody in a bar, in a street, it is reason for panic. here and in much of america in between new york and l.a. you walk into a bar, see somebody with a weapon it's like that's my neighbor. maybe he's going hunting. who knows? most people you know own guns? >> everybody i know. >> pretty much everybody. >> i had a rifle before i had a baseball bat. >> meet jesse, bill, bo, and daniel. pretty much who we are talking about when we see the latest stats on gun purchases in america and shake our heads uncomprehendingly. that cultural divide, much more than policy, is what's kept the issue of gun control so polarized and so frankly hopeless. >> he had a gun before he had a baseball bat. i'm in the same situation. i was shooting a bb gun when i was five years old. and i knew at that time it

wasn't a toy. it was a weapon. and i was very well-educated by my father on the responsible use of that piece of equipment. and that's what's critical to me. >> i shoot all the time. and i'm always trying to shoot better than i did last week. it's relaxing. you're out with friends. it's fun. >> there's a dark little jegeni in all of us i think that wants to pick up a gun, point it at something and blast away. >> this is a new springfield arm 9 millimeter with a 19 round clip. >> i like guns. i don't own a gun, but i like holding them. i like shooting them. >> the glock 22 chambering a 40 caliber. >> there is something compelling, an eerie rush, an unholy sense of empowerment feeling the warm glow of these heavy iconic shapes in your hands. >> get off my lawn, you kids.

>> that's a .357 magnum, 8-shot revolver. >> bigger kick on this guy. >> a little bit. >> you can't help silently mouthing "make my day" or "feeling lucky, punk." >> i could do this all day. >> whatever your opinion on the subject, fact is, gun culture runs deep in this country. >> this is what i grew up with. i shot my very first turkey with this gun at 12 years old, actually. >> that's a .22 rim-fire cartridge. that is probably the type of firearm that most kid start off with. >> these guys, i'm guessing, are not people i should be worried about. they are nice and exceedingly patient with the city boy who wants to play with their guns. >> that there is a .338 winchester magnum. that's a big cartridge, heavy bullet.

kind of for very large game like elk. there's a target up on that hillside. can you see it? >> now, watch mr. new york city liberal shoot that target out there from 244 wind-swept yards. >> oh, wow. now, am i accounting for windage, dropping, wind distance? >> you want to aim 13 millimeters to the left, 4 millimeters high and you'll hit that center. [ laughter ] >> left? >> no, hold it right on. i was just making a joke. >> taking advantage of the city boy. >> that wind's got to be 20 miles per hour. >> yeah. holding a rifle in this wind without a brace, it's tough. >> all eyes on you. no pressure. >> pretty close, huh? >> may have been a hair left.

a little high that time, i think. >> a little right. shooting real good, though, tony. i mean, you're not missing it by much. if you were elk hunting you'd be hitting him. exhale and squeeze. the biggest thing is, just let it surprise you. as you're pulling the trigger, squeeze it slow. every time it goes off it should surprise you. that way you don't flinch. >> that looked right on. that looked right on to me. >> got to tell you. i'm proud of myself. i was somewhere in the neighborhood. >> he's a natural. >> do you think that people who don't like the idea of guns, if they had a day out here shooting targets? i suspect a fair number of them would at least temper their views somewhat. >> 1,000%, absolutely. >> you'd definitely get a spent for the power of it for sure.

>> generally speaking, me and these guys i think should feel free to buy all the guns we want. it's the rest of yu i'm not so sure about. >> i know how to shoot beer cans. when the zombie apocalypse comes, i'll be ready. as long as they're holding beers [ laughter ] ♪ ♪ [ male announcer ] more room in economy plus. more comfort, more of what you need. ♪ that's... built around you friendly. ♪

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stay in the groove with align. ♪ so when i grew up, when i was a kid, i played cowboys and indians. the cowboy myth had such a grip on american self-identity. >> i remember playing cowboys

and indians. it was just part of the culture. you look up to john wayne, steve mcqueen. big kid, 12 years old. wouldn't even think about cowboys. >> this is david manzanares. his family has lived here for generations, tracing their roots all the way back to the spani conquistador,. >> those walls are 160 million years old. the ones on the bottom 220. all the way back to the jurassic era. >> this is the area where georgia o'keefe spent the last and most productive decades of her life. >> now you've walked in her painting. this is what she called my country. it wasn't until i was in my early 20s they even knew who georgia o'keefe was. grew up with her being like a grandmother. it took me going out to l.a. and going into a gallery out there. i saw these paintings.

like an idiot i said, why do they have pictures from my house? he said please take a step back. that's georgia o'keefe's. it's just going to get prettier. just going to get prettier. >> one of o'keefe's biographers infamously described this landscape which had so captivated the artist as garish, vulgar and in poor taste. which if you look around is pretty hard to comprehend. >> this is such the other side of the universe for somebody who lives like i do. people who live in cities for whom a backyard this big is inconceivable. the idea that there's a certain type of personality who's drawn towards open spaces like this. >> you know, this country it either embraces you or within a year it spit you out. . >> we reached the end of of our

trail at a place called valley of thieves, once said to be a haven for infamous cattle ru russelleruss rustlers. of course. >> they call it the rabbit. ladies, you know what i'm talking about. i'm in my 50s. still with the jokes. got to find a distinguished segue into adulthood one of these days. >> three generations of manzanares are here with me this evening. herman, david and max. we'll do our best to put together a little meal. >> anybody want some coffee? >> i'll take some of that. >> cream, anybody? >> who am i kidding? i'm a city boy. i need some cream. >> you need some cream? >> yeah. trying to get all jack palance here. who am i kidding? >> we're also joined by dan flores, author of the book

"horizontal yellow, nature and history in the near southwest." >> how spanish is new mexico still? how powerful are the echos from spain? >> spain was in control of new mexico for far longer than mexico was. i think a lot of these new mexican families are ten generation and 11 generation. when they look back on themselves, they think of themselves as spanish. those traditions, they have continued to thrive in these little pockets. we're cut off from spain. so i once worked with some people from spain. and they kept cutting up. snickering at me. what they told me was, okay. you can knock it off with the don quixote phraseology. equivalent of me today saying the top of the morning to you, sir. they were like stop making fun of us. i said you know what? i'm not making fun of you. that's the way we speak. we go see grandpa that's all he knows, 500 year ago spanish. maybe if we're lucky enough

we'll have grandpa play his harmonica the way he used to do on the cattle drives. >> but i have a plan here on this meat. >> all right. >> the meat is yours. >> all right. good. >> just call me cookie. some local beef, growing hot coals, cast iron pan. >> pureed green chile's here? >> yes. >> beautiful. i'm going to throw those chile's in a little bit and stew it for a few minutes and we'll be good. i just need a few splashes of like an open beer even. good. >> check it up off the chuck wagon greatest hits. beef, beans, potatoes, corn bread. we do our best. >> this is just about ready.

>> let's eat. dig in. >> well, we done good, gentlemen. >> no kidding. >> thank you, tony. this is excellent. >> i'm wondering, you guys have been here for so long, your family. could you live anywhere else? >> not me. no, not me. >> this is home. the roots, i always get called back here. i visited paris and lived in l.a. for awhile. paris is pretty great. it's pretty great. but it's not here. >> dad, i'm curious to know why you chose here, why you came here initially. >> open space. because i'd grown up in a circumstance where you couldn't see 50 feet. i mean, the forest was so dense. i used to climb up into the top of a tree of the highest hill just to be able to see over the forest. so there was something about the idea of being able to see the landscape that really compelled me. >> the big empty makes a real

deep deep sense to certain type of person. ♪ [ singing des colores ]

♪

since before 1598 went sante fe was established as a province of new spain, grizzled frontiersmen and hearty pioneers have come to this landscape to eek out a difficult existence. welcome to sante fe today. where we can all live the western dream and even buy a little piece of it to take home. you got to love it. we pretty much eradicate the native american culture, and now in newer, more politically correct times, we decide we love indians and all things native american. we're kind of but not really sorry. how much is that bricabrac?

that's not all. sante fe is inclusive. new age types seeking peace and serenity in the heart of the western landscape. it's the last place in the u.s. you can wear buckskin and fringe without irony while holding a bhuddist blanket. there is buried deep inside this ordinary-looking five and dime something truly authentic. >> hi. frito pie and soda, please? >> this is the frito pie. as american as the apple high and manhattan project and nearly as deadly. chili and cheese-like substance dropped like a deuce another roller in the night right into a bag of fritos. >> it feels like you're holding

a warm crap in a bag. close your eyes and put this in your hand you would be very worried. colostomy pie. it is also delicious. neither the frito nor the frito pay are indigenous to new mexico. this comes from texas. new mexico has many great things. let texas have this one. >> in six minutes i've managed the depths of self-loathing it usually takes a night of drinking to achieve. ♪ >> a warm spreading glow fills my belly as i set out once more in my mighty ford galaxy. yet i am also depressed. frito pie. i smell metaphor. speaking of explosive diarrhea,

did you know that the first ever atomic bomb was exploded in 1945 in the desert of new mexico? sushi bars, galleries, rekki massage studios. crystals? we got em. >> i think i need to adjust my meds or something. because i just see dark portents in all of this. >> well, there are a lot of dark portents. >> today's frito pie. >> this food will lighten you up. i guarantee it. >> horseman's haven cafe sits next to a gas station. it is about as far away from the plaza as you can get without leaving the sante fe city limits. >> it has a special feel of chilies grown specifically for this restaurant and nowhere else. >> i meet back up with van flores for a little historical

perspective over some of sante fe's most beloved new mexican fare. >> i know people who have journeyed hundreds of miles to come and eat at horseman's haven. >> enchilada. couped pork in red new mexico an chili sauce with beans and rice. some posole made from sound hominy and pork. and sopopilla. >> did the early spaniards, early cattle railroad men and the people on the way to making this america, were they romantic about this part of the world? >> they thought of it as a hard place. for one thing, it was exceedingly remote. when you were here, this seemed like one of the farthest reaches of the globe. i mean, initially americans began coming here because they

perceived that sante fe was so remote from the rest of the spanish empire that it was possible for the united states to pluck it. i don't think anybody becomes romantic about it probably until the taos painters arrived. >> starting a long-running tradition of artistic pilgrimages to catch the spiritual groove. every kind of eutopian dreamer, eccentric, new ager, they all came here in search of whatever. chilies! >> more? >> thank you. >> that's level three? all right. we will be careful. new mexico an chilies come in two varieties, red or green. >> ordinarily i like green. it's like yankees or mets. you got to pick one. this green, however, is not ordinary green. >> my face is burning off. >> this ain't normal. oh, god. this hurts. >> i'm going to join you.

fate lies right here. >> defcon one, two, three. >> it's a slow roll. first you think it's going to be okay. then it's not. there's nothing to do but wait it out. >> i believe they use these same peppers in pepper spray. >> for killing grizzly bears if that tells you anything. >> yeah. shot glass? that would put you in the hospital. >> no kidding. everybody in the restaurant seems so calm. maybe they're not eating this. >> they're all just trying to muffle their screams. ♪ nothing, that's what? that's why i take prilosec otc each morning for my frequent heartburn. 'cause it gives me a big fat zero heartburn. woo hoo! [ male announcer ] prilosec otc. the number one doctor recommended frequent heartburn medicine for 8 straight years. [ larry ] you can't beat zero heartburn. and best of all, it means i can enjoy all the foods i love. oh, zero heartburn is awesome.

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♪ history, they say, belongs to the victors. and here where the myth of the american west took root, where so much romantic lore began, history was being rewritten almost as soon as it happened. this was never the big empty. as van flores writes, the idea of a wilderness is itself a cultural construct. as early as 1539, when marcos deniza, a francis can friar reported seeing the seven cities of cebola these were tantalizing outposts of wealth, possibly cities of gold. coronado, the famous spanish conquistador dispatched an expedition and there were indeed cities.

>> thank you for having us. >> the home of community leader ivan pinar in zia pueblo. i'm here to join robert and his family in a traditional hunt. >> we'll be carrying our shotguns, our rabbit stick. we won't do this anymore. it's -- >> harder. [ laughter ] >> it's always good to get a prayer going so that the animals can be willing to take their life. [ speak iing foreign language ] >> the pueblo who lived here continuously since around 1250 a.d. had long before the spanish or anyone else arrived a highly organized society. they built multilevel adobe apartment blocks. they famd the land, irrigated

crops using intricate water diversion systems. all this in what sure as hell looked like a harsh and unforgiving land. >> this is good weather though for hunting. because it's a nice breeze, overcast. >> the breeze is beautiful. >> not too hot. >> pueblo long ago learned to adapt to hard times, dry seasons, war, incursion. there were years where there was nothing and they had to deal. >> we found a pack rat. >> our first pack rat. >> in preparation for the summer solstice ceremony, game like ran bits and pack rats are collected for the medicine man as a payment for his services. >> you notice that there's some droppings, fresh droppings. >> you see the droppings you know there's one around. this time of the day they're going to be inside their homes. there's too many predators around.

>> it's not easy. once you find a nest you got to dig after the little burrowing bastards. you hack, you dig, you dig some more. >> a lot of work. >> something to think about, yeah. >> that's what our ancestors had to do sometimes. when times got hard. right now there's this drought going on. we didn't have the grocery stores. >> then hopefully you flush one cleanly. >> get it? >> got it right here. >> right. >> and give him a good whack on the head. >> the ratio of work to protein is not a hunter's favor. >> it's whiskers, a little bit of his tail and plant it back in here. >> to ensure regeneration of this once vital source of food, tradition and ritual requires returning a part of the animal

back to the nest. >> i will never go hungry. >> going for pack rats is really an homage, an acknowledgement of an important earlier time when that was all there was. for 25 years, a great drought. >> as a city boy, i am greatly relieved these little critters are for the medicine man and that we won't actually be eating any of it. instead, linda, ivan's wife, is preparing a pretty traditional menu. >> nothing is wasted when the big game is brought home. we dry up and dehydrate the bone. >> deer bone stew, red chili stew, pinto beans with chicos, that's roasted dry corn, and tortillas. and of course, more chile's. >> we call this dish pusharound chili. >> gather around and push around until you see the one you want.

>> chilies in the state of magical. >> the seeds have been passed down from generation to generation. they stay within the families. >> what percentage of young people leave and don't come back? >> not too many people will leave. >> really? >> no. >> there are people who will leave. eventually there's this yearning inside you you want to go home, you want to learn your culture, you want to be a part of everything. >> it would be an understatement to say that the first europeans who came into contact with indians, certainly the effect was destructive to the culture. and give than history, how american do you feel? >> this village is unique in that we can easily just ignore everything that happens out there and just keep to ourselves here. and we do that sometimes. we close the road and we take care of our own business here. but it really varies by individual. and maybe even by generation. we have a veteran a veteran a veteran that all served in the armed forces. >> big tradition of serving in the military, yes?

>> yes. we continue to be outdoorsmen. and we are survivors. i've dealt with the elements of the dust, the rain, the hail. but it made a better person out of me. we are who we are. we're still going to be here. i feel so alone. but you're not alone. i knew you'd come. like i could stay away. you know i can't do this without you. you'll never have to. you're always there for me. shh! i'll get you a rental car. i could also use an umbrella. fall in love with progressive's claims service.

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[ inaudible ] >> taken out into the desert. [ inaudible ]. >> look up in the dark. the night sky.

uncontaminated by the light of any nearby cities. you can see things. and of course, you've got a rich tradition of actual real-life spooky science fiction stuff. the manhattan project in l los alamos. nuclear missile silos hidden deep beneath the desert floor. it's out there. >> so where are we? >> ground zero of where everything seemed to have started. >> submitted for your approval. norio and his friend james, two men associated with a new mexico ufo and paranormal forum. >> this is where america's rocketry actually started. >> at the end of world war ii, classified unit of the cia and army intelligence were sneaking away from possible prosecution, cadres of the world's best rocket scientists. did i mention they were nazis? oh, yeah. many of them were sent around here. >> other very mysterious things

even took place allegedly in 1947. >> 1947. roswell incident. >> that's right. that's still a mystery. >> some say you notice how they always say that in those dubious cheaply re-enacted doc shows? some say it was the remains of an alien spacecraft. anyhow, back then they were working on some pretty cool stuff. for instance, a my lar-like weather balloon designed to hair high reslusion cameras across the soviet union. when they got way up in the atmosphere they'd pancake out like a flying saucer. >> might that explain the excessive zeal and mysterious behaviors? if one of these things crashed in the desert you could well understand a whole bunch of sinister looking bodies would show up and tell people never start speaking of this incident. >> you know, it's hard to say. but any military could create a cover story for anything. >> any possibility of like cyborgs or aliens?

>> i've heard there is and then i've heard there isn't. >> we're taking you to a place, an undisclosed location what's known as albuquerque's own area 51. there'll be no appropriating involved? every time there's alien stuff there's always probing. always with the program. i don't understand. if they've come here for years haven't they done enough probing? >> boy, if we were in like ghost adventures we'd be playing this up. some say this area was used for sinister experiments, german-speaking cyborgs. we need to find some crack pot scinetician. >> this is even better than area 51 it's like area 61. >> it turns out to be a fenced-off view of essentially kirkland air force base. >> the leading edge of military research developing and testing. at night there's a lot of lights. it's a huge complex. >> fact is, there was and still is some pretty cool stuff being

tested out there in the desert. maybe for darpa or nsa or the air force. who knows? >> you think there are other life forms among us or who visited this? >> yes, do i. >> what do you think? >> well, personally i have a different opinion. this who alien concept is a cover story in order to conceal a certain kind of projects. but i could be wrong. but i try to be a realist. but i'm open to anything. >> but it's for certain it has been authentically documented on film is that somewhere out there among the silos, underground cities, supposed nuclear waste dumps and alien burial grounds there is a large animal and a hole in the ground. what strange beast even now is being loaded into a grave-sized pit in the desert for me?

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>> well, i think one of the first things any society learned

to do was dig a hole, throw an animal in it, cook it. >> they call it around here an matanza. >> one, two three. up up up. >> it's pretty much an old school version of a barbecue. in the sense that it involves burying a giant pig and the em imbibing of much alcohol. about 20 minutes from the nearest paved road is a place called dead horse ranch. people who helped us make the show, their families, friends, and no shortage of local new mexican characters have gathered to par take in the festivities. there is beer here. plenty of it. local and delicious and abundant. did i say that? >> tony, need a drink? >> there are very tasty and lethal, as it turns out, margaritas. and i believe to the best of my recollection, anyway, that i soon made the classic error of moving from margaritas to actual shots of straight tequila. it does make it easier to meet

new people. >> let me ask you. why is it that anytime the alien visits like america, there's always anal penetration involved? >> i've never heard it before ever. >> really? >> no. am i new to that? >> but the pig. the pig. what about that body in the desert? some say the tradition of the matanza dates back to moorish times when the eating of pig had to be clandestine. but we can verify this pig's been cooked slow over hot coals for the last 17 hours. >> i caught a peek of its ass. it looks delicious. >> frank here, he knows. he runs pancho's barbecue in albuquerque. >> time to get slicy. i step in to help frank break my piggy friend down into its constituent parts. >> beautiful. >> first, off got legs. what you call your fresh ham. then your forequarter, your shoulders and what not. the loin and rib section, your

pork belly. nothing goes to waste. >> all right. now the head. >> all those pig parts sent down the line to harold, who's been using them for a veritable rainbow of new mexico an specialties. he's getting shredded for tacos, added to the beans, cooked up for posole. going into chili. >> that's going to be beautiful. >> the tender loin i set aside for a little time on the grill. everyone here has put in a lot of work, and it's time to eat. >> i didn't know the show was about this, but i've been thinking about it a lot. this sort of cowboys, mexicans, indian, romantic ideal. a lot of easterners came out here and fell in love with this romantic notion of the west and wanted to come out here and sort

of kind of create their own version of the west. >> exactly. >> was that a good thing? >> that's what helps us as a people, as a native culture, as a culture that's been here for these years. we invite you to come and to enjoy what we par take in. i mean, the indians had the beans and chili and corn, spanish people brought the pork. we put that together and we have this meal here. >> people love the native culture, they love the hispanic culture here. it wasn't always that way when i was younger. >> you played cowboys and indians as a kid. if there's one american iconic hero it's the lone cowboy. does that have any residence at all out here? >> every culture here, mexican, spanish, pueblo, reservation, white, we all are cowboys here. >> i am a native new mexican. i've gone through strange phases of like my ownership of this place. it's this weird mixed bag of everything here all the time. and that is the identity. i don't know. it allows a certain freedom.

>> my desire to wear cowboy boots and put a hat on right now, you're similar pa theft to -- similar pa the sympathetic of that? >> sure. >> tony i have a question for you. what do you think of new mexico? kind of what are your thoughts? >> i'm going to try to boil it down to a simple statement. if you're an easterner and you come out to new mexico, you start to see metaphors in everything. but actually, if you were to stretch a little bit you could say that new mexico is a perfect metaphor for america. it is a total mutation. it's got spanish, mexican, original american, and add a ting of radioactivity. this is what america really is. to one degree or another we are an immigrant culture. we are a gun culture. the expression of american power and identity has always been the lone cowboy with a gun.

that goes deep. this is the heart of the american dream. american dream. love it or hate it, this is it. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com this is "piers morgan live." welcome to the viewers in the united states and around the world. did she have to die? [ gunshots] >> new details and questions in the police chase on capitol hill that ended in the bullets. the family of the driver miriam carey speaks out. >> i just know that my sister did experience postpartum depression with psychosis, they labeled it, which came along with treatment of medication and counseling, which she did and she had her challenges with that. >> the latest on the shooting, her state of mind and the investigation and day four of