tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN October 18, 2013 8:00pm-9:01pm PDT
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mala malala yousafzi met the queen today. today. >> thanks for watching. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com woo go up this beautiful mo mountain. people trudge up the road to the church. it will be forever "the god father" theme park where they're playing the god father theme over and over. >> i think most thoughtful italians are disgusted by this.
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♪ it's one of the most beautiful places in europe, a place whose roots are very much the roots of the town where i live. but somehow i've never been able to get it right. to tell the story, any story, of sicily. it's the biggest island in the mediterranean. two main towns are palermo and catanya on opposite sides. i've done a show in palermo before. it was an epic goat rodeo, of humiliating failure. there's the sicily we know from films, an evocative, deeply felt history that's not quite reality but cool anyway, right? there's the simple fact of its location. tucked away under the boot of italy. part of but not really part of that country. its own language, culture, its own history of norman, arab,
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spanish, roman, turkish, egyptian interlopers, all leaving their mark and their influence. i grew up in new jersey which was pretty much sicily on the hudson. the italian-americans next door weren't from milan. i could tell you that much. i guess what i'm telling you is, i figured this will be easy. a certified hotel restaurant and working farm that in this case produces olive oil. >> how many acres of property do you have? >> about 40 acres. >> he's one of the oldest organic farmers. >> this is guido, the proprietor. >> wow. so that's where potatoes come from. >> how freaking hard can it be to make an awesome show in sicily? eat the nice food, drink the
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wine. in an idyllic villa in the countryside outside catana. how low impact can it get? ♪ >> so the plan was, we go fishing. we get some fresh octopus, maybe some cud el fish, explore the bounty of the surrounding waters all while working on our tans. with the local chef, fishermen, and man of the sea. he's experienced. he knows where to get it good. >> do you like the ocean? >> i love it. >> how do you say in italian? >> rici demari. >> it's one of my favorite things to eat. >> this is turin, my host. >> what else is out there? >> octopus. and cattle fish. and setia. bravo. i want to try to find some small abalone. and also clams. here the water is still cold.
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i think there will be really full. >> i'm thinking, really? are these prime fishing waters? i don't know about this. but all this boat traffic and all these people and so close to the action, i can't see much of anything living down there. >> okay. perfect. we anchor here. >> but i am famous for my optimism. so i dutifully suited up for what was advertised as a three-hour cruise. so i get in the water and i'm paddling around. and splash. suddenly there's a dead sea creature sinking slowly to the sea bed in front of me. are they kidding me? i'm thinking, can this be happening? splash. there's another one. another rigor mortis half frozen freaking octopus. but it goes on. one dead cud el fish deceased
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octopus frozen sea urchin after another. splash splash splash. each specimen drops among the rocks along the sea floor to be discovered by turin. i'm not actually watching as this confederate hurls them into the water one after one. i'm no marine biologist, but i know dead octopus when i see one. pretty sure they don't drop from the sky and then sink straight to the bottom. >> how many do we have? eight? >> yeah. >> okay. i'll try to get some [ inaudible ] now. >> strangely, everyone else tends to believe the hideous sham unfolding before our eyes. doing their best to ignore the blindingly obvious. >> [ inaudible ]. >> then they gave up and just
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dumped the whole bag of dead fish into the sea. >> at this point, i begin desperately looking for signs of life. hoping that one of them would stir, become revived. i'm frantically swimming around the bottom littered with dead things looking for one that's still twitching so i could hold it up to the camera and end this misery. but no. my shame will be absolute. for some reason i feel something snap, and i slide quickly into a spiral of near hysterical depression. is this what it's come, to i'm thinking? is another dead squid narrowly misses my head? almost a decade later back in the same country and i'm still desperately staging fishing scenes, seeding the oceans with supermarket seafood, complicit in a shameful, shameful incident of fakery?
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but there i was, bopping listlessly in the water, dead sea life sinking to the bottom all around me. you got to be pretty immune to the world to not see some kind of obvious metaphor. >> buono. >> i've never had a nervous breakdown before, but i tell you from the bottom of my heart, something fell apart down there and it took a long long time after the end of this damn episode to recover.
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>> we don't need to boil. we'll be ready without it. [ speaking foreign language ] >> raw clams, abalone and a heart-warming beach scene surrounded by a gaggle of curious and hungry kids. it was at this point about the only possible way for turin to redeem himself. you'll notice i'm not there. i'm sitting in a nearby cafe pounding one drink after another in a smoldering, miserable rage.
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our evening meal will be at turin's place which is just up the hill in turlina. by the time dinner rolls around, i'm whipped to the -- did i mention it's my birthday? i've had three hours of boning around in a pitching boat, a couple more hours getting looped, two more hours lying on sidewalk outside the restaurant while the crew hangs lights. so i'm gone baby gone. i don't remember any of this. any of it. >> so how's your day today? >> it was good. a nice boat trip, a little swim. >> i would be told later that a gentleman named tomasso had joined me for dinner. also someone on the crew mentioned his wife was present and that she didn't say much. presumably this was not her preferred way to spend her birthday. >> hi, tony. this is my passion. i like to find an old variety of olive. and one of thesis white. >> so that's the original.
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>> yes, original. >> apparently there were these white olives, harvested from some secret tree only turin knows about. maybe it's next to his secret fishing hole. there was great sicilian wine, apparently. and apparently i drank quite a lot of it. there was bread and olive oil. abalone served raw in the shell. baby sardine called neonata also served raw with a splash of citrus and salt. >> baby sardina. without much ingredients. to taste better the turn. salute. >> thank you. >> if you ask a sicilian, where do you come from? the correct answer should be i'm italian. no, we say i'm sicilian. >> is sicily italy? >> yes. >> should it be? >> i don't know. but we have britains, normans,
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arab, spanish. so basically we are a mix. we are a blender. >> oh, look. my octopus. i remember personally catching that one. it was a mighty struggle, too. no, actually, i don't. >> the octopus. >> beautiful little shrimp. very tender, the octopus. very nice. >> and another traditional specialty. i am told they call this tuna tartar. and cuddle fish. i recognize you, my friend. >> now like this, how traditional is this to sitly? >> i think from the part of the sea only. >> always as long as you've been alive you go to a restaurant and you see crudo like this? >> no. i see it in poor families. >> so it's not like there's japanese influence, but the japanese sort of gave everybody permission to eat their own
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traditional foods. what is the great mother sicilian classic dishes? >> the anchovie and parmiganna. i think for me. >> with the sardine. >> yes. but it's an explosion of flour. because this plate, it's arab. born in the period when sicily was very poor. >> this i like. i even remember it. pasta al fino quietta made with fennel, pine nuts, saffron and anchovy. served alongside sardines that have been salted and roasted with chest nuts and fried in oil. >> we have to use our hand to eat the fish. >> no problem. >> i must have slumped back to bed somehow, collapsed into a sodden heap of self-loathing.
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i would have normally turned on the porn channel and maybe loaded up on description mepres. but there's no tv here. [ horn honks ] [ passenger ] airport, please. what airline? united. [ indian accent ] which airline, sir? [ passenger ] united. whoa taxi! [ british accent ] what airline, then? [ passenger ] united. all right. [ spanish ] what airline? [ passenger ] united. ♪ [ mandarin ] which airline? [ passenger ] united. [ arabic ] which airline? [ passenger ] united. [ italian ] where are we going? [ passenger ] united. [ male announcer ] more destinations than any other airline. [ thai ] which airline do you fly? [ passenger ] united. [ male announcer ] that's great, big world friendly. ♪ [ male anmake my markat's greati wawith pride.ork.y. create moments of value. build character through quality. and earn the right to be called a classic. the lands' end no iron dress shirt.
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i love the films "god father 1" and "god father 2" but they had nothing to do with any organized crime from reality. they're opera. magnificent opera, but basically a morality tale about loyalty and destroying the things you claim to love and want to protect. actual organized crime members generally speaking are a bunch of spectacularry uneducated lazy sociopaths who have no problem stealing from their own harder working neighbors. here in sicily, they are less glamorous than gambling and prostitution. they are and have traditionally been a gigantic parasitic
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organism, one that has now grown to be of mere equal size as its host. mary taylor simetti is originally from new york but she's been living here in palermo for half a century now. she's a food writer and at one time a reformer for social justice, which is a dicey thing to be here. >> you've been here all this time? why? >> well, i came for a year. it was going to be a year between college and graduate school. i just finished college. i met a man. and therein lies the tale. i married a sicilian. and i've lived here ever since. >> piccolo napoli. it's a restaurant like a lot of others around here except for the quality of its food. >> tell me about where are we first of all? >> okay. the father and mother of the present owner opened this in 1951. there's a wonderful photograph
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there on the wall of the opening day. it started as really a tavern and has become a well-known and much appreciated restaurant now. it's very straightforward sicilian cooking at its best. >> we start with some typical things, the kind of things i deeply love. the kind of simple good things that make me happy. panelli, a fritter made from chick peas, some campana t a. a dish like ratatouille, some olives and white wine from a small vineyard run by mary and her husband. >> this is panelli? >> yes. chick pea probably came in with the arabs, maybe even earlier. because chick peace have been around for a long time. >> campanata. as says tillian as it gets. >> two internationally known
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sicilian dishes. >> this is what i've been waiting for. this is what i wanted sicily to be. something to sooth my shattered soul. it doesn't take much. a bowl of good pasta. in this case the famous spaghetti almero diseppia. spaghetti in cuddle fishing. also some pasta with swordfish, eggplant and tomatoes. >> ah beautiful. >> perfect. perfect pasta. very happy with that. >> good. i know you've been looking forward to it. i'm glad it's good. >> palermo is an expensive city for some things. because the consumer is paying -- >> more. >> -- more so that the store can afford to pay its extortion
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money. the big change that has happened is that up until the mid 80s, the late 80s, there were a great many sicilians who thought if they were honest and didn't have anything to do with the mafia they could live without being affected by the mafia. apparently, 80% of the businesses in palermo and 70% in the rest of italy that pay extortion. >> that's a lot. >> that's a lot. that's a lot. >> but not everybody pays the bite. a small but growing coalition of businesses have joined a group called adiopizo. a grassroots organization taking a stand against the mafia's traditional near total control over the food chain from farm to table. >> i come out of the restaurant business in new york. you got taxed with every laundry order, every time they took your trash away. it was built into all your basic services. >> here it's much more the going around christmas and easter. >> guy comes by. >> a guy comes by. i mean, it's plain and simple
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extortion. >> given that that's a pretty straightforward situation, some of these guys who have banded together, what happens? the guy shows up and they say i'm not paying you. what happens next? >> well, apparently now the mafia has decided that it isn't worthwhile bothering with the people who belong to adiopizza. there's so many others out there and why look for other people. to belong to the group you have to sign a pledge that you will not pay and that if you are approached you will go to the police. >> right. >> then they send you to lawyers until another organization which deals with the people who are actually having trouble. it's incredibly complex. there are no easy answers. >> right. >> what about big farm? what about some of the things that have been happening on a much more legitimate level? >> i mean, who's more
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destructive worldwide? yes. you could make a very good argument. >> that's horrible. i'm upset because i'm sounding as if i'm making apologies for the mafia. it's just i think what has happened that having lived 50 years in sicily i'm much more skeptical than most americans. >> right. >> i don't know that -- >> i know what you're saying. you're saying you're not so sure that a mafia-free italy would be that much more functional. >> no. absolutely. >> i'm not so sure. >> i'm not sure at all. but i am constantly amused by the fact that 45 years ago, if i said to an american, i live in sicily. oh, sicily. how did a nice girl like you end up in a place like that? >> really? >> now it's oh, on a farm in sicily. how romantic. oh, i envy you! so perception in sicily has changed. >> has changed. >> enormously. >> in 2007, there were only 160
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adiopizza members. now over 800 members. pretty cool considering we're talking about a group that demonstrated no hesitation in killing judges, politicians, police, prosecutors. back to catana. when you're talking late night dining options you're talk one thing. the enticing smell of smoke wafting through the streets. a smell that's enticingly equine. i smell rainbow dash. >> anthony and marco, a couple of sicilians and officianados of masselini equinas. >> this is one of the older side, famous from families of mafia that grows and crime
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organization here. >> really? >> yeah yeah yeah. nowadays seems to be like a bit more quiet because they are all getting arrested so they prefer to sell meat against drugs. . >> so right over there you can bet on a horse? >> yes. people like to bet horses. here you eat the one that loses. >> right. >> loser goes on the fire. it's not a nice thing. but i mean, sometimes happens for real, huh? >> cycle of life. all right. >> bona sera. >> so why horse? where does this tradition come fro from? >> egyptians, greeks, 750 years before christ. then we have romans. because we have to say in sicily we are bastards.
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we were being conquered by everybody. also our dialect. there are many words not understood by other people. italian language comes from latin. something different. we asicilians before italians. don't forget that. >> i'll never forget. >> the side of the meat. it's yellow, it's not white. when it's yellow means that the horse has been breeded eating fresh grass. >> tear and go? >> yes.
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>> do you like the taste? >> it's good. >> a bit sweet, huh? simple, huh? you don't need nothing. horse meat, basically it's loved by quite everybody here, you know? >> meatballs? >> as you wish, man. i'll try anything. >> a mix of two things, you know? scrambled bread, parmesan cheese, equinino, parsley, eggs and of course horse. >> it is very tasty. >> let's put it this way. when my daughter asks me for a pony, i'm bringing her here, pointing at that grill and saying, here's your [ mute ] pony. but they didn't fit. customer's not happy, i'm not happy. sales go down, i'm not happy. merch comes back, i'm not happy. use ups. they make returns easy. unhappy customer becomes happy customer. then, repeat customer.
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thought to have come from spain. >> the noise of the car. they will arrive. fantastic. >> like any good-tasting, high-quality pig, the secret is largely what were they fed, how did they live, were they happy. >> i'm a hunter. i've never seen so many at once. it's like i feel -- >> you should be shooting something. >> yes. >> a poorly fed pig who lived his life in squalor, stress and fear makes for bad pork. this is why we should treat animals well. not just because that's the nice thing to do but because it makes them provably more delicious. [ speaking in foreign language ] >> chestnuts, acorns, roots and
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stuff foraged from the hills supplemented by some nice fattening grain during the winter months when wild food is less easy and less plentiful. >> they catch here the animal only with the traps. >> right. >> it's a shame that they don't let you shoot. >> i like pig. not to hang out with, to eat. i don't have a tattoo of a pig or anything, but i like them fine. and when given the opportunity to shoot one in the brain or see one shot in the brain so they may is up on its entrails and other parts, i'm down. that's what's called cheering me up from some manic depression. >> bang. and this pig is like paul. you won't see him no more. even with the brain-dead, the heart still goes on beating, sort of like -- oh, pick a kardashian. in this case, however, those last few beats of the heart are
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absolutely necessary to pump all that red blood into a bucket for sanguinaco. the salt keeps it from coagulating prematurely. [ speaking in foreign language ] >> looking good. >> there's a kardashian joke there somewhere. kim gets ready for the big day. it's date night at khloe''s house. real housewife gets ready for summer. grooming tips from theresa. i got a million of them. let's hope kanye never has to see this. oh. >> we hang now. >> then get to work. >> okay. >> very fast, huh?
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>> all those good bits, the lungs, kidneys, they get cooked slowly in fat with garlic, chili pepper, a little wine. >> is the meat also what, the liver? [ speak in foreign language ] >> so it's all the interior. >> all the interior with a little bit of the fat. >> pork confi. >> yes. >> oh, that's pretty. >> meanwhile, the intestinal casings get filled with blood and gently poached until creamy bloody delicious. and a nice spread of homemade cure meats, local cheese, and homemade wine. let the party begin. >> so what do we have here? let's identify these products.
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capricolo? >> and sliced prisciutto. lard. >> pancetta. >> the cheese is local. this is the ricotta. just cooked in the oven. >> the bread? >> the bread is from the uncle. and they have also salami and they have sausages. >> and this cheese? >> carne estrado. >> and what do you call the dish? [ speaking in foreign language ] >> beautiful. mm. that's good. >> oh, the best moment of the day. >> indeed. oh, yeah. >> what do you think about the
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cheese? >> it's good. but for me the ricotta really good. >> i think you discover sicily and an aspect of that, i think that very few people know. this is incredible. even the bread is the old lady that she made it. >> you think of sicily, you think of family, you think of food. this is more like it.
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[ speaking foreign language ] >> catana. the early morning market. it's been going on for longer than america's had a country. it's old old i tell you. >> do they know you here? do you shop here often? >> yes. >> this is not tomasso's first trip to the market by a long shot. his mom is a regular. she comes here almost every day. >> you can find here everything. each butcher more likely they have their own specialty. fresh ingredients. lamb, sausage, hamburger, that
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is at least six months old. over here. this is a place where she buys the spices for home and the bacon. >> this is what the market is best known for, sea food. >> these are one of the biggest retailers that we have in the fish market. you can see also the variety. we consider the tuna like the pig. we'll try it with anything. we can find all this here. >> those are the tiny little clams. >> yes. >> welks. >> you can see the shrimp normally still alive.
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>> so i see cuddle sepia? >> baby sardines. >> swordfish? >> i'm joining tomasso for lunch today. mom's cooking, so we've got to do some shopping. [ speaking foreign language ] >> really beautiful. >> yes. the color is beautiful. >> so the shrimp and -- >> and baby sardines. >> after you. >> what do you want to try? blood sausage? >> start with that. >> just blood?
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no onion, no spice, nothing? a little salt? a little pepper? >> si. >> you squeeze it? >> no, no, you do like that. [ speaking foreign language ] >> an interesting roll up with salt. >> oh, that's good. usually i don't like trite plain, i like it in a sauce. but that's very tasty. looks like hell, tastes like heaven >> yes. >> if you like this you're sicilian. [ speaking foreign language ] but they didn't fit. customer's not happy, i'm not happy. sales go down, i'm not happy. merch comes back, i'm not happy.
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it any mystery why i'm always on the lookout for grandma? anybody's grandma will do. i've been known to cruise highways looking for grannies to abduct so they'll cook for me. given my fragile emotional state, it makes sense i would dragoon tomass owes mom into making me lunch. is that creepy and sad? >> what's going on in here? >> wine in the mean chime? >> chin. >> chin. >> need any help chopping parsleys? perfect. >> for lunch we got the shrimp and sardines from earlier at the market. but first this. >> just grab one? it's like aroncitti with a holl hollowed out potato filled with cheese and fried. >> filled with all the cheese and dip into the eggs to seal the potato and then the crumb
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bread and fry. my mother used to cook for everybody even if it was midnight. my parents's house was the fondest of my friends. when you want to do something share sometime all together, have dinner, my mother is cooking for everybody. because the problem is when she cooks, even if she knows it's only for five people, she's cooking for -- >> ten just in case. >> more campanata. this is sicily after all and this is the class you can starter. also a bread and tomato salad. >> would you like to try something? >> that's old school. >> we toss the bread. and normally we do it with bread at least two days old. >> right. really good. really really good. that's sicily right there. >> right. yes.
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>> fresh shrimp sauteed in garlic, butter and herbs. >> i've noticed over time as i travel around the world that every great and enlightened culture when they're confronted with a shrimp or a prawn, right away -- >> that is the way you see whether it is fresh or not. >> yes. >> so typical day when you were 15 years old. what did you eat for lunch? >> never missing pasta for lunch. >> pasta and meat or pasta and fish? >> and fish. of course something locally. basically you had to go right behind the corner to find your products. so whatever we can produce in sicily, that's what she would buy. >> watch this. zip the bone right out. out comes all the bone. who needs a knife? >> sardines fileted neatly, sauteed in garlic and oil, a little red pepper. >> that's a beautiful thing right there. >> another two hours here i'll be speaking italian.
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well, speaking sicilian. have to eat it hot. this is very nice. if you don't like this there's really no hope for you. >> there's something that you don't like it? tell her. >> i'm so happy. this was a delicious meal. to eat in this beautiful home was some really good home-cooked food. >> graci. ♪ [ male announcer ] more room in economy plus. more comfort, more of what you need. ♪ that's... built around you friendly. ♪
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♪ my last night in sicily. and after this i'm going back to new york, crawling under my bed and adopting the fetal position for like six weeks. >> could i cut some vegetables? >> i may look normal. i don't exactly. but i'm not barking uncontrollably or running around shrieking with my pants wrapped around my head. which is what my instincts are telling me i should be doing. >> to me one of life's great joys is cheese. >> no, i'm eating cheese. which makes me happy. always. and drinking wine. good wine. and a hell of a lot of it. and i'll just make it over the hump with any luck at all. >> mozzarella here. a procino.
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>> turin joins me for a final meal along with antonio, guido and guido's girlfriend. >> this is not a concept that existed in america but this is a concept that should exist. please explain what it is. >> this is a hotel linked to the territory. you have to use local product, local recipes. >> penne with sun-dried tomatoes, zucchini all from the farm. >> oh, man that. looks good. >> wow. >> fantastic. >> whoa. >> some nice rabbit, olive oil, also from the farm. more wine. i might just make it.
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>> this is called corn -- sweet and b and bitter. >> most interesting cuisine. philosophically. life is too good. i need a little bitterness to remind me self of the eternal tragedy of our existence. you're right. the sweet and sour of the life. >> one final attempt before i go, to extract something meaningful on what it means to be sicilian. >> what's wrong with these people in the north? >> people from the south are coming from greek street culture, where the philosopher while in the north, the austrian came through. >> that's the hardest, meanest anyone can say. >> and figured out that the last century the three best writers
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in italy are from sicily. because they consider us just like a weight or problem. but finally in summer they all come here to make babies. it's a good thing for us, you know? >> in the end, it all comes back to the godfather. >> we go up this beautiful mountain, this incredible town. he goes back to the 12th century. there are few places on earth more beautiful. but we are sitting in -- it was like a godfather theme park. oh, look, michael corleone got married there. it's so fantastic. >> look at these people with a "godfather" t-shirt. i say oh, my god. why people get stuck on this? i love "the godfather" movie. >> michael had many options. he destroyed his family. everybody, everything he
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touched. >> a way it's fair. >> it's fair? >> a good movie, coppola. >> coppola. he didn't [ mute ] it up. >> no. >> no! this is "piers morgan live." welcome to the viewers in the united states and around the world. the two florida girls drive this 12-year-old to suicide but should their parents be held responsible? >> i remember telling her, becca, don't listen to them. you're beautiful. they are jealous of you. and she would say well you're my mom. you have to say that. >> it's the bullying tragedy everyone is talking about. the sheriff at the center of it joins me. politics after the shut down, is cruz in charge and will obama care ever work? i'll talk about it all with gloria allred and more. the republican party retreats, hillary clinton's
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