for now, however, i'll settle for fixing my headache. that hurt. peru is a country that's historically driven men mad, mad for gold, for cacao, for its magical ancient history. now, there's something else drawing outsiders to its hidden mountain valleys. we love the stuff. we obsess about it, gorge on it and fetishize it. i'm talking about chocolate, once a common treat, it's now becoming as nuanced as fine wine making the pursuit of the raw good stuff all the more difficult. i'm joining that hunt in remotist peru, but not before i've re-immersed myself in the booming lima food scene.

♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ ♪

i'm in peru with this guy, eric. >> he was looking at this, he went into the tree. >> that's funny. >> chef of the world famous restaurant in new york. to look at where chocolate comes from, particularly our chocolate, the very expensive limited run designer chocolate bar business that eric got me into last year. so that's why we're in peru. before we get all indiana jones, we're spending some time in lima, as we like the capital city just fine. we have both of us, from previous trips, friends here. lima is the cultural hub and culinary capital of a country that has exploded in the last decade with scores of world class chefs, cooks and restaurants. it has long been considered to be one of the best food scenes in all of south america. >> good. >> how far is the house? >> five minutes. >> one of our friends here is

chef restaurateur, one of the best most successful chefs in the country. his family is a beloved culinary dynasty in peru and a small fishing village about an hour south of lima is where they spend their weekends. ♪ his mom is like peru's julia childs and james beard rolled into one. >> thank you for having us. a caterer, cookbook author, beloved icon of peruvian astronomy. oh, yeah, i'm going in. to say one is fortunate to enjoy her hospitality would be an understatement. yeah, definitely. warm, generous, welcoming beyond belief. >> too bad you have to leave so soon. >> yeah. >> normally, we have lunch late, like 5:00.

>> do you nap before lunch or after? >> both. >> sounds like paradise. wow. look at this. >> every weekend, marissa opens the house to an ever changing mob of friends, visitors, drop-ins and family. >> this is fantastic. >> they do not skimp on the food. delicious, delicious things pour out of the kitchen, a torrent, a deluge of traditional peruvian favorites. >> i do this with crab meat, yellow potato and avocado. we love avocado. >> it is like a tureen of crab meat, eggs, avocado and mashed yellow potatoes. >> this is from the coast. >> beautiful. >> basically raw king fish fillets dressed with lime juice. >> perfect. >> that's scallops ceviche. >> fresh scallops and lemon juice and garlic.

and limo. drum fish, braised with a corn based beer. >> they look fantastic. >> this is spicy. >> very spicy. >> and stuffed ricotta peppers filled with ground beef and raisins, served with cheese. >> wow. >> are we lucky or what? >> we are lucky. >> that's just the beginning. there's so much more food there's no way we can show it all, much less describe it. it's incredible, overwhelming, invariably fresh and delicious and thrillingly different than what i'm used to. >> yeah, it's fantastic. >> i could frankly get out of the chocolate business right now, put up a pub tent on marissa's porch and pretty much dig in for duration. this is living. >> those little fish are amazing. they're so fresh. >> i want to be her next door neighbor. >> it's so good.

>> so has peruvian cuisine always been this diverse and this delicious and we're just discovering it or has it changed over the last 15 years? >> it's changing any way. what you're eating now is the traditional food. >> there's so many products in peru that are unfamiliar to people in the states. when you eat this food it's not like, well, this is something like -- it's not kind of like anything. it's all its own. >> good ingredients all year round. >> it's very good. >> what do you do when you're homesick for peruvian food and you're traveling? there's really -- >> we take some chiles with us in the luggage. we're the perfect smugglers. >> i hate to say good-bye to this but it is what it is. things to do and places to go. wild and apparently extremely rare cacao trees to visit. incredible meal. so happy. ♪

>> all i can say is if people are anywhere near this nice on the rest of this trip, it's going to be okay. lima, city of kings. home to a third of peru's people. locals escape by hanging out at the beach. why not, when you can maybe get a tattoo while you're at it. is that sanitary? >> you've been here before. >> oh, yeah, man. >> i take eric's suggestion and we head over to see chef javier

wong, the uniquely nonconformist seafood specialist, famous for his incredible and uncompromising food and his flaming wok. if peru has a national dish, it's probably this. the freshest fish only needs the right cut, a little citrus and no heat. what's the most common thing people do wrong? >> the quality of the ingredients. you don't do it with something that is not fresh. >> the cut is very important. the thickness. >> right. >> when you do it, you don't do it too much ahead of time. >> the whole place is served whatever menu he's doing that day, same for everybody. today, the flounder he got from the market is particularly nice, so that's what we're getting. generally thicker pieces to stand up to the supervises and acids. octopus and flounder.

>> i don't know what to tell you, man. it's damn good. >> it is good. >> is this spicy or not? >> you ever been spanked in your life and enjoyed it? me neither. i don't like pain. >> as painful as the pepper. >> brutalized with a pepper. i like. >> that's really hot. >> it's flounder dressed with pecans, lime, limo and sesame oil which clearly eric likes. which clearly eric likes. so you're not like foraging in the catskills for your inspiration? you basically rip your ideas off small businessmen? >> it's okay? >> si. >> superb. >> chinese and japanese immigrants came to peru in great numbers in the 19th and 20th

centuries as contract laborers and farmers and their influence is felt here, particularly in food, to a greater degree than anywhere else on the continent. it's that influence and the ingredients of amazonia and andes that really distinguishes the food here as something special. >> what is this? tofu? >> this is a combination. is that pineapple? where did that come from? that's not traditional. >> it looks asian to me. i believe it's probably -- >> his name is juan. i mean, unless he's a retired porn star. this shouldn't be good, but it is. working up a sweat on that one. might have a couple more beers after this. have a nice nap, midday nap. so you can get out of your element.

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one more day in lima, the chance to delve a bit further into the cuisine before things get a little more old school. >> a special one we prefer here. if it comes from the jungle. >> coolentro? >> it's like cilantro and much more powerful in flavor. >> it would be wrong to not point out that peru along with brazil is at the forefront of a movement celebrating the incredible and unique ingredients from the andes and amazon, flavors you find no place else on earth. >> there seems to be a lot of interest in the last decade in the amazon because of its amazing spectra entirely new to most of us of ingredients. pedro is at the cutting edge of exactly that territory. his restaurant, amaz, explores

the rivers, the ocean, the landscape of peru. highlighting a roi inin ining i are diverse and to us, their newness. >> you have tuna, plantain vinegar. the nut is a fruit in brazil. and here we use the fruit. >> hmm. >> we make these scallops with wild almond. >> the almond is very, very soft, like the flavor of it and complements very well. >> this one is fresh water shrimp. made of a fresh water shrimp. >> whole new flavor spectrum, all new. it's almost like you need a new section of your tongue. >> it must be exciting because they're an amazing garden with the amazon. >> that looks good. >> this is a soup made of ham with peanuts and corn.

>> mmm. liking the food. i've enjoyed these cocktails, too. >> we're going to be wasted. >> we'll be fine. oh, whoa. >> this is also tradition. they season the fish, put it on a leaf and cook it. the fish is catfish. in the amazon we have like 200 types of catfish. >> and the flavor from the leaf, too. >> here, we have the second biggest fresh water fish in the world. underneath you have a puree that is a pan fruit and the reduction is fermented yuka. >> fermented. >> this is toxic or poisonous. they let it ferment and it becomes, you can eat it. >> these fish are unbelievable. they get up to 600 pounds swimming in water no deeper than a rice paddy. >> really? >> giant. they're like dinosaur fish. everyone has been saying for years peru will be the next big thing.

as far as restaurants. >> and it is. this really proves it. >> we have chili pepper with nuts and ants. >> they're big. >> huge ants. >> you want to try it? >> yeah. totally. you're not loving that, are you? >> no. >> imagine, you took a lot of acid and then you ate that whole bowl of ants and you go home and you experience violent diarrhea, you're tripping, it's like 4:00 in the morning and you turn around and look at the toilet and all these ant heads floating around in there. it would be cool. >> it would be cooler only i can't wait. >> now that we've confirmed what we already knew, that peru's food is unequivocally awesome, it seems proper we take a trip back in time to meet the forebearer's of this country's rich cultural legacy.

the museum in lima has a massive collection of pre-colombian artifacts. looking at them, you get an idea of what these ancient peoples were like, how they lived. >> wow! this is like the real stuff. >> i think so. the real deal, yeah. >> gold necklaces. you see where the spanish just freaked-out when they came here, turned into maniacal greed heads. >> history does not have to be boring. it can be sexy. >> i don't know whether you knew this, but i am an aficionado of earlry erotica of pre-clolombia

and post-colombian heiress, you know, pottery of people doing it. >> i should have known that. >> turns out things can get pretty interesting back in the day. >> oh, yeah. those guys can get crazy and get wild and apparently very kinky. >> the erotic gallery. there you go. that's a conversation starter. >> i take eric to the pre-colombian boning section, actually the erotic pottery section. >> slip of the tongue. >> amazing. >> which sounds about as much fun as all nude renaissance fair, actually pretty crude. nothing new under the sun these pre-colombian horn dogs didn't think of first. >> a chicken. >> i'm not sure i understand this one, tony. >> i think we frown on that these days. >> wow, they're doing it under a blanket. this must be after the spanish arrived to teach them shame. ew, skeletons with boners.

>> they are zombies. >> getting zombie old-fashioned. >> yes, tony. i really appreciate your knowledge. >> was this decorative or really porn? >> i think they put it in closets somewhere or something. >> i bet this was right on the table. come on in, have a cup of tea. sit down. oh. here's some animal-on-animal action. pretty awesome. >> yeah. this is interesting. yeah. i'm happy we made it here, tony. that was an enlightened moment.

>> something about steamy xxx pre-colombian erotica always makes me hungry. luckily at night, lima comes alive with the smell and familiar enticing sound of sizzling meat. it's time for delicious screamingly hot garlicky spicy flavor jack street meats. and as anyone who knows me is well aware, i love me some street meat. >> really? why? >> you know, the neighbors, they -- >> the neighbors complain? >> complain. >> our friend brought us to this place. a street stall named for the lady who runs the joint. they specialize in one thing. it means skewered meat. this stuff, they say, goes back all the way to the incas and as popular with the spanish conquistadors as today.

that looks good. which is to say, i must have some. traditionally a mixture of beef hearts and other animal hearts. >> chicken hearts. geese hearts. >> marinated in garlic, cumin, onion, a little vinegar. >> oh, yeah. >> grill it up and pile it on high. >> these are not small portions. these are mountains of food. okay. it does not get any better. >> voila. let's do it. man, that's awesome. >> yeah. >> beef heart. that is magical right there. >> it's very garlicky. the marinade is nice. chicken heart. >> that is seriously tasty. the beef heart or the chicken heart, the texture is so nice. >> all right.

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the city lies about 400 miles northwest of lima, peru's fourth largest city with over a half a million people living there. it's our next stop, the staging area for our trip to the mountains to find our cacao. chocolate. i mean, we know we like the stuff, but how is it made? where does it come from? columbus was the first european to encounter cacao beans on a canoe off the coast of honduras. he's said to have grabbed both crew and cargo and brought them back to spain. a few decades later a spanish con kiestador was said to have found the drink of the gods and the european royalty did their best to keep what was fast becoming a craze for hot chocolate to themselves.

but it soon found its way to america. in 1765, the first chocolate factory opened in new england. chiclayo's main market is a massive one stop shop for all things chocolate, as well as just about everything else under the sun. >> oh, you have your animal skulls. that's tempting. haircut? >> i'm good. >> wow. >> this is the raw beans? >> that is toasted. >> then she -- >> grinds it. >> then puts it in a mold. gracias. >> bitter. >> not sweet at all. >> no. >> they don't put sugar. >> actually, here we are in the market, i believe, where they have what i believe they call

santarias. >> he is how should i put it, let's say he has more of a spiritual side than me. >> this is all the ingredients that you need for the shaman to bless the rest of the cacao. >> okay. >> so he has us shopping for what i guess i'd call shamanic supplies. medical medicinal herbs with properties to help us bless the cacao crop. [ speaking foreign language ] >> this one is amazing. smells really good and supposedly purified. >> smells like hippie. >> interesting, they're very well respected in the region. they cure everything, do ceremonies. >> good? >> yes.

>> our journey continues by road as we leave and head east toward the andes. >> supposedly if you go two hours north from here, the indians welcome you. >> with blow darts. >> yeah. >> before we get too deep into the mountains, we're stopping off to meet our shaman. [ speaking foreign language ] >> anthony, he's going to teach us how to do the bath for the plants and for us. >> okay. [ speaking foreign language ] >> he's cleaning. all the negative vibrations.

>> close your eyes. he cleaned you and he wished you a lot of success. [ speaking foreign language ] >> especially in the back, the neck and the back. that's here, and the chest. a little bit like that. >> we wanted a blessing for our cacao harvest. we got this. my aura is now cleaner than gwyneth paltrow's colon after a three-month juice cleanse.

to a successful harvest. but we're not done. we have to transport this stuff to our trees and finish the job ourselves. >> i know you won't believe it but he has changed. i'm serious, not joking. >> listen, i have an open mind. eric and i are heading to the canyon, eight hours by car from chiclayo, well into the andean highlands. ♪ on the way, we stop for lunch and meet up with this guy. [ speaking foreign language ] >> chris curtin, master choclatier and our business partner in this knuckle headed

adventure. >> it's nice. >> so, basically a hen soup. that's good. where in the world does chocolate come from? >> well, 45% from ivory coast in africa. we don't deal in those beans just because of political situations. >> there was this stuff, the special chocolate. >> yeah. >> which pretty much is what we're here to look at. >> yes. absolutely. >> where it comes from, what's involved. >> eric ate some of chris' chocolate and heard about these wild trees he was sourcing in peru and promptly got me involved in this designer chocolate bar business. >> i'm a rather famous guy and i never cared about desserts. you on the other hand, eat chocolate every day. >> yeah, every day. >> so here we are, three men and a chocolate bar. good thing for the world or exploitive opportunism, yet to

be determined. what do i, after all, know about chocolate. next to freaking nothing. >> it's good like that, right? >> like oliver twist there. we used to do it like that in the orphanage. wow, this hotel is amazing.

oh no. who are you? who are you? wrong answer. wait, daddy, this is blair, he booked this room with priceline express deals and saved a ton. yeah, i didn't have to bid i got everything i wanted. oh good i always do. oh good he seemed nice. express deals. priceline savings without the bidding.

for safeof backache pain,f you can trust extra strength doan's. specially formulated for your worst backache pain. the canyon where we're headed to meet some of the farmers that supply the beans that make our chocolate and get me an education in all things cacao. the roads up into these mountains can be tricky, so we is to take care of the local

vigilante dudes who run a road block here outside of town. it looks like a shakedown but they're a welcome sight. this hill, where cars have to slow down, was where all sorts of miscreants used to waylay travelers like us. so these guys stepped in to take care of business. >> wow, that was a big shotgun. that will shoot through an engine block. actually, i don't really know but i'm assuming. at this time of year, there's also the rain and mud, which can mean flooded streets and streams that cut right across the roads. and there's this, the maranon river. in the best of circumstances, a fairly adventurous way to get your vehicles across, a long line across a fast moving

current, ferry propelled only by the flow of water. but today the river is too high and current too fast. >> river running a little high. >> it's these smaller boats or nothing. >> when dealing with complex transportation issues, the best thing to do is pull up with a cold beer and let somebody else figure it out. >> yeah. let's go in the boat. >> to my crew, i say good luck. we're headed for what looks like bar on the other side. let me tell you, it's quite a ride. >> i'll go the last. >> water inside the boat. look, look, look. the boat is sinking.

>> you got to go down and then up, just right! we make it to the other side, reasonably dry. >> beer? the maranon canyon is home to a wide range of species including and most interesting to us a strain of the cacao previously thought to be almost extinct. a few years ago the trees were any genetically tested and proven to have a rare dna to cacao in the world, this stuff, the real deal. pure. don is our cacao connection, a farmer whose family has been working these mountains over 40 years. >> they're absolutely beautiful when they start out. >> really kooky looking pods

when they come off the tree. they sort of look like someone glued them to the side of a tree. this is a once a year crop? >> it grows continuously but this is a peak seasons. >> try that. put one in your mouth. bite it and see the nibs inside? those are the coca anybodies. >> where does chocolate come from? >> the bean. okay. here's where chocolate comes from. the trees produce pods. you split open the pods and take out the beans. the buyer sun drys the beans, then roasts them. after roasting, the beans are extracted from their shells and ground up, producing chocolate liqueur. mix this concentrate with milk, sugar, cacao butter and you get what we call commercial chocolate. our chocolate bar sells for a nosebleed price that's high by even premium chocolate standards.

where does the money go? most importantly to me and eric, are we doing a good thing? here's how it breaks down. the raw cacao costs one chunk. labor, the inner sleeve, this much. design, box, packaging, this much. various sundry equipment and miscellaneous, another small chunk. chris, me and eric get a slice out of every bar. that leaves this much, which the retailer takes. chef bleeding heart hippie here has already convinced me to give whatever meager profits we make off our first bar to a local charity. >> what's unusual about these pods? these beans? >> extremely high quality flavor. >> thought not around for a while? >> this was over 120 years ago and making a guy and comeback. for a choclatier, this is a once in a lifetime find.

>> about 40% of the beans from these trees have white cacao beans mixed in. the rest are purplish in color. we heard of an ultra rare group of trees further up the mountains that produce pods of 100% all white pure beans and that's something that me and eric are very interested in down the road. but for now, don fortunato's daughter has prepared us a traditional peruvian mountain meal. >> wow. >> oh! >> kuinas. >> it's rice dumplings with boiled egg, chicken inside. >> wow. this is amazing. >> not surprisingly some guinea pig of which there seems to be many around for the taking. this preparation served with a

cacao sauce. >> that's good. >> all of this food is delicious. >> so chocolate, it is a luxury food item. >> yes. >> this is an area abundant with coffee, chocolate, fruit. how's life for the locals? [ speaking foreign language ] >> he says that 20 years ago, 25 years ago, it was easier for him. he was planting soybeans and coffee. >> right. >> he was making much more money. and then he didn't plant soybeans any longer and the coffee production went down so therefore he had a financial struggle for a while and now with the cacao trees they are planting, he has no more stress and fairly upbeat himself. ♪ ♪ where you think you're gonna go ♪ ♪ when your time's all gone? [ male announcer ] live a full life. the new lexus ct hybrid with an epa estimated 42 mpg.

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i'm in the canyon of peru with my friend and partner in chocolate bars, chef eric. eric and i are intrigued by the ultra rare all white beans we heard about from don so we set up a meeting with another farmer, don alberto elsewhere in the valley. we thought it would be a nice gesture given all the culinary talent between us to make him and his family dinner in run for his hospitality. >> what are you thinking?

>> butterfly marinade grill. >> you could do that with a nice sausages. >> which would be nice to throw in with stew. >> onion, peppers, a little bit of spice. >> and potatoes? we're kind of moving into the spanish and what's it called? >> and we can use shrimp from the guy. shrimp and chicken works. >> that sounds like a plan. [ speaking foreign language ] >> you have 24? >> yeah. >> successful. >> yes. so far. wait until we arrive there. it's going to be interesting. >> don't be a downer, man. i'm optimistic. we arrive at the village where the fabled cacao beans are said to be growing and meet with the village's unofficial mayor and our cacao former who will lead us to the trees.olympiad you

olympiad olympiad xxii olympiad xxiii olympishort incline turne an epic hump up one hill after another. >> when you tire up, you tell us. >> when you slump to the ground and urinate all over myself, that will probably be a tip that i probably want to stop. another reason i hate the swiss, mountains. >> i love mountains. >> eric, who grew up in the pyrenees, is up the slopes like a gazelle. me, i feel every year of my misspent life with every step. >> oh, geez. >> this is -- >> are we there? >> no, no, we're not there. >> he's a baby. only 22 trees. >> i wish i could hear you over the sound of my exploding capillaries. >> okay. >> by the time we get near the fabled trees, i'm toast. gasping for air, waiting to puke

from the altitude and the exertion. >> so, tell us again, what's unique about these trees? >> just because they are all white beans, all white. >> which is a rarity. >> so these are the only known all-white 100 pure. >> that's right. >> and why is that good? >> it's a new variety and gives new flavor profiles to it. >> i assume because i've humped up a -- excuse me. oh, nice catch. >> watch your fingers, man. yeah. that's it. >> there we go.

and i'm going to repeat myself. >> all white. >> remember the shaman. well, we still have stuff to do with the package he gave us. we do, presumably, want a good crop. better get right with the spirit world. >> oh, geez. >> shaman juice thrown around, the purified soil and there you go, chocolate magnates. well, good luck, dude, to a good harvest. ows ] ...and let in the dog that woke the man who drove to the control room [ woman ] driverless mode engaged. find parking space. [ woman ] parking space found. [ male announcer ] ...that secured the data that directed the turbines that powered the farm that made the milk that went to the store that reminded the man to buy the milk that was poured by the girl who loved the cat. [ meows ] the internet of everything is changing everything.

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♪ the trip downhill unsurprisingly is a lot easier on me. time for me and chef ripert to get cooking. back to basics, wood fire, ingredients from the morning morning and this old recycling system. here fella. i'm ready for the chicken. and red wine. notice how i neatly maneuvered you into the chef job. >> now we have to make the mashed potato and we're good. >> eric's mashed potato secret, around 50% butter. the glory that is france. i think they call it gout. okay. let's do it.

[ speaking foreign language ]. >> the only guy, he asked all the founders of the village here to do exactly what he has done, so the farmers are starting to copy him. >> right. >> and he's happy because it's going to bring wealth, in the village, in the valley and the community. >> after don makes a traditional unsweetened hot chocolate preparation, ground cacao nibs, and hot water. no milk, no sweeteners, no nothing, just like the ancient kings liked it. >> there we go. gracias. the real deal. >> only water, and they will use -- >> before chocolate hit europe.

this is what the aztec kings would drink. >> they would be jealous right now. >> you'll get yours eventually. >> gracias. mucho gracias. salud. >> that's good salud. >> salud. >> gentlemen, to education. >> yes. >> so, did we do the right thing? is it all right for two new yorkers to make money, however much, or however little, off the work of struggling farmers in a faraway land? fortunada, alberto, chris, everybody down the line, all the way to the families who pick the pods off the trees, seem pretty happy to be doing what they are doing, but do i want to be in the chocolate business? that's something i'm going to have to figure out. but for now one last thing needs to be done to fulfill our shamanic obligations. >> guys, you need to get out.

the guy is coming with his bike, and he doesn't care. >> a bridge. a bundle of eucalyptus leaves, a badly working lighter, got to get right. >> smells like ganga. do you have a lighter? >> we need to burn this stuff and pass it around our bodies three times. >> got something. >> oh, too moist. oh, you got it, man. >> okay. >> smoking. >> that's smoking. i'm going to get it. hold on. now i've got it. >> let's do it. >> okay. >> that's coming. i got it. we did it.

>> over. >> okay. done. hey. we have a problem with chocolate, i tell you that. >> get him in the coffee >> get him in the coffee business. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com >> the beatles! >> nothing but a bunch of british elvis presleys. >> it's not true, it's not true! >> when the beatles arrived, from then on, a thousand different things arose. ♪ >> is it a sex thing or -- >> it's sexual. >> yeah. >> completely. ♪ >> there is a desire to get power in order to use it for good. ♪ how does it feel >> pop musicians in today's generation, they can rule the world. ♪