that hurt. i'm talking about chocolate, once a common treat, it's now becoming as nuanced as fine wine making the pursuit of the raw good stuff all the more difficult. i'm joining that hunt in remotist peru, but not before i've re-immersed myself in the booming lima food scene.

♪ ♪ ♪ >> i'm in peru with this guy, eric. >> he was looking at this, he

went into the tree. >> that's funny. >> chef of the world famous restaurant in new york. to look at where chocolate comes from, particularly our chocolate, the very expensive limited run designer chocolate bar business that eric got me into last year. so that's why we're in peru. before we get all indiana jones, we're spending some time in lima, as we like the capital city just fine. we have both of us, from previous trips, friends here. lima is the cultural hub and culinary capital of a country that has exploded in the last decade with scores of world class chefs, cooks and restaurants. it has long been considered to be one of the best food scenes in all of south america. >> good. >> how far is the house? >> five minutes. >> one of our friends here is chef restaurateur, one of the best most successful chefs in the country.

his family is a beloved culinary dynasty in peru and a small fishing village about an hour south of lima is where they spend their weekends. his mom is like peru's julia childs and james beard rolled into one. >> thank you for having us. >> an icon of peruvian astronomy. to say one is fortunate to enjoy her hospitality would be an understatement. warm, generous, welcoming beyond belief. >> too bad you have to leave so soon. >> yeah. >> normally, we have lunch late, like 5:00. >> do you nap before lunch or after?

>> both. >> sounds like paradise. wow. look at this. >> every weekend, marissa opens the house to an ever changing mob of friends, visitors, drop-ins and family. >> this is fantastic. >> they do not skimp on the food. delicious, delicious things pour out of the kitchen, a torrent, a deluge of traditional peruvian favorites. >> i do this with crab meat, yellow potato and avocado. we love avocado. >> it is like a tureen of crab meat, eggs, avocado and mashed yellow potatoes. >> this is from the coast. >> beautiful. >> basically raw king fish fillets dressed with lime juice. >> perfect. >> that's scallops ceviche. >> fresh scallops and lemon juice and garlic. drum fish, braised with a corn

based beer. >> they look fantastic. >> this is spicy. >> very spicy. >> and stuffed ricotta peppers filled with ground beef and raisins, served with cheese. >> wow. >> are we lucky or what? >> we are lucky. >> that's just the beginning. there's so much more food there's no way we can show it all, much less describe it. it's incredible, overwhelming, invariably fresh and delicious and different than what i'm used to. >> that's fantastic. >> i could get out of the chocolate business right now, put up a pup tent on marissa's porch and pretty much dig in for the duration. this is living. >> those little fish are amazing.

they're so fresh. >> i want to be her next door neighbor. >> it's so good. >> so has peruvian cuisine always been this diverse and this delicious and we're just discovering it or has it changed over the last 15 years? >> it's changing any way. what you're eating now is the traditional food. >> there's so many products in peru different than the states. when you eat this food, it's something like. not kind of like anything. >> it's all year-round. >> it is very good. >> what do you do when you're homesick for peruvian food and you're traveling? >> there's really -- >> we take some chiles with us in the luggage. we're the perfect smugglers. >> i hate to say good-bye to this but it is what it is. things to do and places to go. wild and apparently extremely rare cacao trees to visit. >> incredible meal. so happy. ♪

>> all i can say is if people are anywhere near this nice on the rest of this trip, it's going to be okay. lima, city of kings, home to a third of peru's people. locals escape by hanging out at the beach. why not, when you can maybe get a tattoo while you're at it. is that sanitary? >> you've been here before. >> oh, yeah, man. >> i take eric's suggestion and we head over to see chef javier wong, the uniquely nonconformist seafood specialist, famous for his incredible and uncompromising food and his

flaming wok. if peru has a national dish, it's probably this. the freshest fish only needs the right cut, a little citrus and no heat. what's the most common thing people do wrong? >> the quality of the ingredients. you don't do it with something that is not fresh. >> the cut and the thickness. >> right. >> when you do it, you don't do it ahead of time. >> the whole place is served whatever menu he's doing that day, same for everybody. today, the flounder he got from the market is particularly nice, so that's what we're getting. generally thicker pieces to stand up to the supervises and acids. octopus and flounder. >> i don't know what to tell you, man. it's damn good.

>> it is good. >> is this spicy or not? >> you ever been spanked in your life and enjoyed it? me neither. i don't like pain. >> as painful as the pepper. >> brutalized with a pepper. >> that's really hot. >> it's flounder dressed with pecan, lime, limo and sesame oil, clearly eric likes. so you're not like foraging in the catskills for your inspiration? you basically rip your ideas off small businessmen? >> it's okay? >> si. >> superb. >> chinese and japanese immigrants came to peru in great numbers in the 19th and 20th centuries as contract laborers and farmers and their influence

is felt here, particularly in food, to a greater degree than anywhere else on the continent. it's that influence and the ingredients of amazonia and andes that really distinguishes the food here as something special. >> what is this? tofu? >> this is not traditional. >> it looks asian to me. i believe it's probably -- >> his name is juan. unless he's a retired porn star -- this shouldn't be good but it is. working up a sweat on that one. might have a couple more beers after this. after this. have a nice nap, midday nap. sm. when my son was born, i remember, you know, picking him up and holding him against me. it wasn't just about me anymore. i had to quit. [ male announcer ] along with support,

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one more day in lima, the

one more day in lima, the chance to delve a bit further into the cuisine before things get a little more old school. >> a special one we prefer here. >> coolentro? >> it's like cilantro and much more powerful in flavor. >> it would be wrong to point out it is at the forefront of creating flavor unique to the andes and amazon, flavors you find no place else on earth. >> there seems to be a lot of interest in the last decade in the amazon because of its amazing spectra entirely new to most of us of ingredients. at the cutting edge of exactly that territory, his restaurant amaz explores the rivers and landscape of peru highlighting a range of products stunning in

their diversity and to us, their newness. >> you have tuna, plantain vinegar. the nut is a fruit in brazil. and here we use the fruit. >> hmm. >> we make these scallops with wild almond. >> the almond is very, very soft, like the flavor of it and complements very well. >> this one is fresh water shrimp. >> whole new flavor spectrum, all new. it's almost like you need a new section of your tongue. >> it must be exciting because they're an amazing garden with the amazon.

>> that looks good. >> this is a soup made of ham with peanuts and corn. >> hmm. i like the food. i've enjoyed these cocktails, too. >> we're going to be wasted. >> we'll be fine. oh, whoa. >> this is also tradition. they season the fish, put it on a leaf and cook it. the fish is catfish. in the amazon we have like 200 types of catfish. >> and the flavor from the leaf, too. >> here, we have the second biggest fresh water fish in the world. underneath you have a puree that is a pam fruit and a production of fermented yuka. >> fermented. >> or poisonous. >> they let it ferment it and it becomes -- you can eat it. >> these fish are unbelievable. they get up to 600 pounds swimming in water no deeper than a rice paddy. >> really? >> giant. they're like dinosaur fish. everyone has been saying for years peru will be the next big thing. >> it is. this really prove it.

>> we offer a chili pepper with under the circumstances nuts and ants. >> they're big. >> huge ants. >> you want to try it? >> yeah. totally. you're not loving that, are you? >> no. >> imagine, you took a lot of acid and then you ate that whole bowl of ants and you go home and you experience violent diarrhea, you're tripping, it's like 4:00 in the morning and you turn around and look at the toilet and all these ant heads floating around in there. it would be cool. >> it would be cooler only i can't wait. >> now that we've confirmed what we already knew, that peru's food is unequivocally awesome, it seems proper we take a trip back in time to meet the forebearer's of this country's rich cultural legacy. the museum in lima has a massive

collection of pre-colombian artifacts. looking at them, you get an idea of what these ancient peoples were like, how they lived. >> wow! this is like the real stuff. >> i think so. the real deal, yeah. >> gold necklaces. you see where the spanish just freaked-out when they came here, turned into maniacal greed heads. >> history does not have to be boring. it can be sexy. >> i don't know whether you knew this, but i am an aficionado of early erotica of post colombian heiress, you know pottery of people doing it. >> i should have known that. >> turns out things can get pretty interesting back in the day. >> oh, yeah. those guys can get crazy and get wild and apparently very kinky.

>> the erotic gallery. there you go. that's a conversation starter. >> i take eric to the pre-colombian boning section, actually the erotic pottery section. >> slip of the tongue. >> amazing. >> which sounds about as much fun as an all nude renaissance fair, actually pretty crude. nothing new under the sun these pre-colombian horn dogs didn't think of first. >> a chicken. >> i'm not sure i understand this one, tony. >> i think we frown on that these days. >> wow, they're doing it under a blanket. this must be after the spanish arrived to teach them shame. ew, skeletons with boners. >> they are zombies. >> getting zombie old-fashioned. >> yes, tony.

i really appreciate your knowledge. >> was this decorative or really porn? >> i think they put ain't closet somewhere. >> i bet this was right on the table. come on in, have a cup of tea. sit down. oh. here's some animal-on-animal action. pretty awesome. >> yeah. this is interesting. yeah. i'm happy we made it here, tony. that was an enlightened moment. >> something about steamy xxx pre-colombian erotica always makes me hungry.

luckily at night, lima comes alive with the smell and familiar enticing sound of sizzling meat. it's time for delicious screamingly hot garlicky spicy flavor jack street meats. and as anyone who knows me is well aware, i love me some street meat. >> really? why? the neighbors complain? >> complain. >> they brought us to this place, a street stall named for the lady who runs the joint. they specialize in one thing. it means skewered meat. this stuff, they say, goes back all the way to the incas and as popular with the spanish conquistadors as today. which is to say, i must have some.

traditionally a mixture of beef hearts and other animal hearts. >> hearts and gizzards. >> marinated in garlic, cumin, onion, a little vinegar. >> oh, yeah. >> grill it up and pile it on high. >> these are not small portions. these are mountains of food. it does not get any better. >> voila. let's do it! man, that's awesome. >> yeah. >> that is some magic right there. >> it's very garlicky. the marinade is nice. chicken heart. >> that is seriously tasty. the beef heart or the chicken heart, the texture is so nice. >> all right. i'm maxed out. really delicious.

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half a million people living there. it's our next stop, the staging area for our trip to the mountains to find our cocao. chocolate. we know we like the stuff. how is it made? where does it come from? columbus was the first european to encounter cacao beans off the coast of honduras. he's said to have grabbed both crew and cargo and brought them back to spain. a few decades later a spanish conquistador was said to have found the drink of the gods and the european royalty did their best to keep what was fast becoming a craze for hot chocolate to themselves. but it soon found its way to america. in 1765, the first chocolate

factory opened in new england. chiclayo's main market is a massive one stop shop for all things chocolate, as well as just about everything else under the sun. >> oh, you have your animal skulls. that's tempting. haircut? >> i'm good. >> wow. >> this is the raw beans? >> that is toasted. >> then she -- >> grinds it. >> then puts it in a mold. gracias. >> bitter. >> not sweet at all. >> no. >> they don't put sugar. >> actually, here we are in the market, i believe, where they have what i believe they call santarias. >> he is how should i put it, let's say he has more of a

spiritual side than me. >> this is all the ingredients that you need for the shaman to bless the rest of the cacao. >> okay. >> so he has us shopping for what i guess i'd call shamanic supplies. medical medicinal herbs with properties to help us bless the cacao crop. [ speaking foreign language ] >> this one is amazing. smells really good and supposedly purified. >> smells like hippie. >> interesting, they're very well respected in the region. they cure everything, do ceremonies. >> good? >> yes. >> our journey continues by road as we leave and head east towards the andes.

>> originally two hours north from here. you have the indians welcome you -- >> with blow darts. >> yeah. >> before we get too deep into the mountains, we're stopping off to meet our shaman. [ speaking foreign language ] >> anthony, he's going to teach us how to do the bath for the plants and for us. >> okay. [ speaking foreign language ] >> he's cleaning. all the negative vibrations.

>> close your eyes. he cleaned you and he wished you a lot of success. [ speaking foreign language ] >> especially in the back, the neck and the back. that's here, and the chest. a little bit like that. >> we wanted a blessing for our cacao harvest. we got this. my aura is now cleaner than gwyneth paltrow's colon after a three-month juice cleanse.

but we're not done. we have to transport this stuff to our trees and finish the job ourselves. >> i know you won't believe it but he has changed. i'm serious, not joking. >> listen, i have an open mind. eric and i are heading to the canyon, eight hours by car from chiclayo, well into the andean highlands. on the way, we stop for lunch and meet up with this guy. [ speaking foreign language ] >> chris curtin, master choclatier and our business partner in this adventure.

so, basically a hen soup. that's good. where in the world does chocolate come from? >> well, 45% from ivory coast in africa. we don't deal in those beans just because of political situations. >> there was this stuff, the special chocolate. >> yeah. >> which pretty much is what we're here to look at. >> yes. absolutely. >> where it comes from, what's involved. >> eric ate some of chris's chocolate and heard about these wild trees he was sourcing in peru and promptly got me involved in this business. >> i'm a rather famous guy and i never cared about desserts. you on the other hand, eat chocolate everyday? >> everyday. >> so here we are, three men and a chocolate bar. good thing for the world or exploitive opportunism, yet to be determined. what do i, after all, know about chocolate. next to freaking nothing. >> like oliver twist.

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the canyon where we're headed to meet some of the farmers that supply the beans that make our chocolate and get me an education in all things cacao. the roads up into these mountains can be tricky, so we is to take care of the local vigilante dudes that run a roadblock outside of town.

it looks like a shakedown but they're a welcome sight. this hill, where cars have to slow down, was where all sorts of miscreants used to waylay travelers like us. so these guys stepped in to take care of business. >> wow, that was a big shotgun. that will shoot through an engine block. actually, i don't really know but i'm assuming. at this time of year, there's also the rain and mud, which can mean flooded streets and streams that cut right across the roads. and there's this, the maranon river. in the best of circumstances, a fairly adventurous way to get your vehicles across, a long line across a fast moving current, ferry propelled only by the flow of water. but today the maranon river is too high and the current too

fast. >> river running a little high. >> it's these smaller boats or nothing. >> when dealing with complex transportation issues, the best thing to do is pull up with a cold beer and let somebody else figure it out. >> yeah. let's go in the boat. >> to my crew, i say good luck. we're headed for what looks like bar on the other side. let me tell you, it's quite a ride. >> i'll go the last. >> water inside the boat. look, look, look. the boat is sinking. >> you got to go down and then up, just right!

we make it to the other side, reasonably dry. >> beer? the maranon canyon is home to a wide range of species including and most interesting to us a strain of the cacao previously though to be almost extinct. a few years ago the trees were tested at a dna lab and had the rarest forms of cacao in the world, this stuff. don is our cacao connection, a farmer whose family has been working these mountains over 40 years. >> they're absolutely beautiful when they start out. >> really kooky looking pods when they come off the tree.

they sort of look like someone glued them to the side of a tree. this is a once a year crop? >> it grows continuously but this is a peak seasons. >> try that. put one in your mouth. bite it and see the nibs inside? >> where does chocolate come from? >> the bean. okay. here's where chocolate comes from. the trees produce pods. you split open the pods and take out the beans. the buyer sun drys the beans, then roasts them. after roasting, the beans are extracted from their shells and ground up, producing chocolate liqueur. mix this concentrate with milk, sugar, cacao butter and you get what we call commercial chocolate. our chocolate bar sells for a nosebleed price that's high by even premium chocolate standards. where does the money go? most importantly to me and eric,

are we doing a good thing? here's how it breaks down. the raw cacao costs one chunk. labor, the inner sleeve, this much. design, box, packaging, this much. various sundry equipment and miscellaneous, another small chunk. chris, me and eric get a slice out of every bar. that leaves this much, which the retailer takes. chef bleeding heart hippie here has already convinced me to give whatever meager profits we make off our first bar to a local charity. >> what's unusual about these pods? these beans? >> extremely high quality flavor. >> thought not around for a while? >> this was over 120 years ago and making a guy and comeback. for a choclatier, this is a once in a lifetime find. >> about 40% of the beans from these trees have white cacao beans mixed in.

the rest are purplish in color. we heard of an ultra rare group of trees further up the mountains that produce pods of 100% all white pure beans and that's something that me and eric are very interested in down the road. but for now, don fortunato's daughter has prepared us a traditional peruvian mountain meal. >> wow. >> oh! >> kuinas. >> it's rice dumplings with boiled chicken inside. >> wow. this is amazing. >> not surprisingly some guinea pig of which there seems to be many around for the taking. this preparation served with a cacao sauce. >> that's good. >> all of this food is delicious. >> so chocolate, it is a luxury food item. >> yes.

>> this is an area abundant with coffee, chocolate, fruit. how's life for the locals? [ speaking foreign language ] >> he says that 20 years ago, 25 years ago, it was easier for him. he was planting soybeans and coffee. >> right. >> he was making much more money. and then he didn't plant soybeans any longer and the coffee production went down so therefore he had a financial struggle for a while and now with the cacao trees they are planting, he has no more stress and fairly upbeat himself.

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i'm in the canyon of peru with my partner in chocolate bars, chef eric. and these are the white chocolate beans from a farmer and we set up a meeting with another farmer elsewhere in the valley. we thought it would be a nice gesture given all the culinary talent between us to make him and his family dinner in run for his hospitality. >> what are you thinking?

>> butterfly marinade grill. >> you could do that with a nice sausages. >> which would be nice to throw in with stew. >> onion, peppers, a little bit of spice. >> and potatoes? we're kind of moving into the spanish and what's it called? >> and we can use shrimp from the guy. shrimp and chicken works. >> that sounds like a plan. [ speaking foreign language ] >> you have 24? >> yeah. >> successful. >> yes. so far. wait until we arrive there. it's going to be interesting. >> don't be a downer, man. i'm optimistic. we arrive at the village where the fabled cacao beans are said to be growing and meet with the village's unofficial mayor and our cacao former who will lead us to the trees. what was depicted of a walk up a

short inclined turned out to be an epic hump up one hill after another. >> when you tire up, you tell us. >> when you slump to the ground and urinate all over myself, that will probably be a tip that i probably want to stop. another reason i hate the swiss, mountains. >> i love mountains. >> eric, who grew up in the pyrenees, is up the slopes like a gazelle. me, i feel every year of my misspent life with every step. >> oh, geez. >> this is -- >> are we there? >> no, no, we're not there. >> he's a baby. only 22 trees. >> i wish i could hear you over the sound of my exploding capillaries. >> okay. >> by the time we get near the fabled trees, i'm toast. gasping for air, waiting to puke from the altitude and the exertion.

>> so, tell us again, what's unique about these trees? >> just because they are all white beans, all white. >> which is a rarity. >> so these are the only known all-white 100 pure. >> that's right. >> and why is that good? >> it's a new variety and gives new flavor profiles to it. >> i assume because i've humped up a -- >> excuse me. oh, nice catch. >> watch your fingers, man. yeah. that's it. >> there we go. and i'm going to repeat myself. >> all white.

>> remember the shaman. well, we still have stuff to do with the package he gave us. we do, presumably, want a good crop. better get right with the spirit world. >> oh, geez. >> shaman juice thrown around, the purified soil and there you go, chocolate magnates. well, good luck, dude, to a good harvest. ♪ late. or is it? introducing new, fast acting advil. with an ultra-thin coating and fast absorbing advil ion core™ technology, nothing works faster to stop pain in its tracks. new fast acting advil. nothing works faster to stop pain in its tracks. some brokerage firms are but way too many aren't. why? because selling their funds makes them more money. which makes you wonder. isn't that a conflict? search "proprietary mutual funds". yikes!! then go to e*trade. we've got over 8,000 mutual funds and not one of them has our name on it.

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♪ the trip downhill unsurprisingly is a lot easier on me. time for me and chef ripert to get cooking. bake to basics, wood fire, ingredients from the morning morning and this old recycling system. here, fila. i'm ready for the chicken. and red wine. notice how i neatly maneuvered you into the chef job. >> now we have to make the mashed potato and we're good. >> eric's mashed potato secret, around 50% butter. the glory that is france. i think they call it gout. okay. let's do it. >> gracias.

>> you guys can cook. >> some say. [ speaking foreign language ] >> the only guy, he asked all the founders of the village here to do exactly what he has done, so the farmers are starting to copy him. >> right. >> and he's happy because it's going to bring wealth, in the legend, in the valley and the community. >> after don makes a traditional unsweetened hot chocolate preparation, ground cacao nibs, no sweetener, no nothing, just like the ancient kings liked it. >> there we go. gracias. the real deal. >> only water, and they will use -- >> before chocolate hit europe. this is what the aztec kings would drink.

>> they would be jealous right now. >> you'll get yours eventually. >> gracias. mucho gracias. salud. >> that's good salud. >> salud. >> gentlemen, to education. >> yes. >> so, did we do the right thing? is it all right for two new yorkers to make money, however much, or however little, off the work of struggling farmers in a faraway lane? fortunada, alberto, chris, everybody down the line, all the way to the families who pick the pods off the trees, seem pretty happy to be doing what they are doing, but do i want to be in the chocolate business? that's something i'm going to have to figure out. but for now one last thing needs to be done to fulfill our shamanic obligations. >> guys, you need to get out. the guy is coming with his bike,

and he doesn't care. >> a san mateo-hayward bridge, a bundle of eucalyptus leaves, a badly working lighter, got to get right. do you have a lighter? >> we need to burn this stuff and pass it around our bodies three times. >> got something. >> oh, too moist. oh, you got it, man. >> okay. >> smoking. >> that's smoking. i'm going to get it. hold on. now i've got it. >> let's do it. >> okay. >> that's coming. i got it. we did it. >> over. >> okay. done.

hey. we have a problem with chocolate, i tell you that. >> get him in the coffee business. this is your first time to denmark? >> i've got to be honest, i usually try to avoid clean, orderly countries without massive social problems. i'm here for you, man. if you're not the poster boy for the entire country, you should be. >> we go? >> yes, let's go. you were saddled with the weight of best restaurant in the world. this looks totally bogus. it's fantastic. >> you need to work 20 hours a day in order to achieve this. >> still waiting now. >> let's go. >> it's so much less about woo. it's about bang! and elements, elements. sauce elem.