noticed a significant oil slick on the surface, bill? >> okay, paula. there's hope against hope, by parents there that one of their little high schoolers will be rescued. if that happens we will have it here at cnn. i'm bill weir. have a good weekend. ♪

♪ ♪ ♪

>> this was built by dr. blake. >> my grandfather came to be nominated. >> it was another time. one that few still remember. it was another time. when these rooms, this house was part of the seat of power. i had the privilege of being born in this house, upstairs.

>> this was the mirage gentleman's bed. sfwlit was a routine that we go to my grandfather's room to wish him good morning and we come down for breakfast. >> the walls tell a story. many stories. >> they used to be a lot of animosity. there was a lot of tension between the ruled an the rulers but that was a different time. now i think back and it's more like a fairy tale. ♪

>> day one in northern india near the pakistan border. this is the indian punjab's largest city. population, about a million. this is a part of india i have never seen, a place i have always been curious about, home to some pretty legendary cuisine. they have a saying, the best food isn't cooked in people's homes. you find it on the streets. ♪

>> punjabis are known for their adventurous spirit as brave warriors who spread throughout the world, bringing great food with them. ♪ in fact, much of the good stuff we refer to simply as indian food comes from here. ♪ the punjab of the early 20th century saw some of the most violent resistance to british rule. and when the british finally cashed out in 1947, they carved off a huge piece, what is now pakistan.

and it remains a potential flashpoint for conflict. but that's easy to forget when you first smell the food. >> there we go. >> dhaba meaning side of the road food stall and there are countless dhabas to choose from in this town but this one is legendary. >> see tony eat vegetables. and like it. >> to eat around this part of the world, punjab in particular, get used to eating a lot of vegetarian. india is one of the few places on earth where even for me, that's not a burden. >> what's that? i'll take that. right here, my good man. mm. that's good. >> in the punjab, meat or no meat, you are almost guaranteed a free for all of intense colors, flavors and spices.

unlike some of the joyless vegetarian restaurants in my sad experience, vegetables here are actually spicy, all taste different, different textures. and served with extraordinarily good bread. it's got this multi-tiered crispy on the outside, chewy in the middle. it's a whole different experience. if this was what vegetarianism meant in most of the places that practice it in the west, i would be at least half as much less of a -- about the subject. >> if you made bread this good, i might eat in your restaurant. mm. ♪ around here, one of the first

things you notice that's different from the rest of india, turbans everywhere. the symbol of self-respect, bravery and spirituality for sikh men. this is the home, the spiritual center of the sikh faith, the world's largest and maybe most misunderstood religion. in the heart stands the majestic golden temple, the sikh equivalent of the vatican. sikhs are fundamentally against any caste system, believers in religious tolerance, but they are just as fundamentally war-like when it comes to defending their principles and what they see as their territory. >> welcome to golden temple. >> thank you.

>> today is one of the most auspicious days of the sikh calendar. pilgrims from all over the world come to worship, walk the perimeter and bathe in the holy pool. all are welcome of any faith or caste to remove their shoes, wash their feet, cover their heads and take part in a simple meal. this is a free vegetarian meal this is a free vegetarian meal

served to many thousands of visitors from every walk of life every day of the year. >> they serve 16 hours a day? >> 16 hour a day. >> for how many years? continuously? >> 300 years. >> 300 years. >> everyone doing the cooking, the serving, the washing of thousands and thousands of metal plates and utensils, are volunteers. the sound is extraordinary. >> we have a feeling that everyone should serve to other people free of cost. that's what we do. >> walking me through it all today. for a religion so concerned with

tolerance, where does the military tradition come from? because it is a powerful one. >> powerful people, hard-working people. every sikh you have seen, when we get baptized, you must protect yourself, you must protect others and you must protect your country so that makes us what we are. i live in a luxury penthouse overlooking central park. when the guests arrive, they're greeted by my butler, larry.

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morning. the smoke from countless burning fields covers the city in a thick haze.

the ancient art evolved from indian wrestling techniques that date back to the fifth century b.c. >> ready, start! ♪ >> training is rigid. this is not just a sport, but a way of life. ♪ wrestlers live and train together and have strict rules of diet and personal conduct. no smoking, no drinking, no contact with women.

i took high school wrestling so that i could get out of gym class. i was a dirty, dirty fighter. it's an all too natural segue between the aggressive posturing of opposing bodies and this. the entire border between india and pakistan has only one crossing. here. every sunset the border is officially closed with this bit

of national theater. wearing nearly duplicate uniforms, the indian military and pakistani rangers partake in a game of theatrical contempt. clearly it's a popular show. >> so where are we? >> we are right next to pakistan. >> india and pakistan were once one country, ripped apart in one of the hastiest, ill-considered partitions imaginable. beyond there, no more fence? >> no more fences. >> so once you get past there, you can go straight into pakistan if you want? >> the problem is, the thing is, india is trying to stop people from coming in, infiltrators, drug dealers, terrorists. >> he is working on a documentary about the india/pakistan border. >> no one wants to go to pakistan. >> no one wants to? >> in their right mind, to go into pakistan. >> that's a fairly decisive

statement. so they put up the fence but the fence is on the indian side. >> yeah. it's 115 meters from the border. >> so beyond that fence, still indian farmland. >> yes. >> so people who live over here can farm over there. >> farm over there. >> the punjab is a fertile region in an otherwise very dry country. this is india's bread basket. with over a billion people currently residing in india, every inch of fertile punjabi soil has great value. these are people who own land over there, then they put the fence, suddenly your life became difficult. >> exactly. they can only grow some kind of crops and they can't farm more than eight hours in a day. >> how long does it take to get back and forth? >> the border security force manage these gates so they have times when they can enter and come out.

>> how much farther can we go before they start to get worried? >> i think [ inaudible ]. >> when india and pakistan were separated, the attempt was to try to draw a line across religious lines. >> exactly. >> drained by the colossal task of fighting two world wars, in 1947 great britain decided to end their nearly 200 year rule over india in an attempt to prevent an inevitable civil war between hindus, muslims and sikhs, the british commissioner drew up a new border. >> he was given two months. >> two months to create a new country, basically. >> people died because of the displaced men. unofficially they say two million people. >> in one of the largest exchanges of populations in history, many millions of people fled their homes. almost immediately, religious

violence broke out on a mass scale. this is exactly what the partition had been intended to avoid. >> do people here still have families over there? >> they do. when the line was drawn, there were religious split into halves. there are some houses where you enter from india and exit from pakistan. >> really. >> yes. >> wow. >> this part of punjab and that part of punjab were once the same so the cultures are very similar. >> it's a popular metaphor for india. pakistan is twins separated at birth. >> we were never twins. it was one country. you could say dismembered. if you cut a body in two, they are not going to become twins. >> right. >> it's sad, you know? you can see them. they are doing the same work as you are doing. they dress the same. they look the same. but you can't talk to them. >> it is an ongoing struggle, an enduring cause of paranoia,

visible all across the region. two nations with atomic arsenals who have shown if nothing else, a terrifying willingness to use them. from the horrific 2006 train bombings to the militant attacks from the horrific 2006 train bombings to the militant attacks in mumbai, the threat of terrorism along this border is a daily concern. ♪

i live in a luxury penthouse overlooking central park. when the guests arrive, they're greeted by my butler, larry. my helipad is being re-surfaced so tonight we travel by more humble means. at my country club, we play parlor games with members of the royal family.

yes i am rich. that's why i drink the champagne of beers.

want something good? really, really good? something local, regional, iconically wonderful? you can't say you've had the whole experience until you've had a little cocha in your life. this is the iconic dish of punjab. >> yes. >> it's a perfect little flavor bomb of wheat dough pressed against the side of a very, very hot clay oven, slathered with butter and served with a spicy chickpea curry on the side. did i mention the butter? >> how is it? >> delicious.

>> everyone seems to be an expert on the dish, including this lady. >> this is our radish. >> very, very, very good. generally speaking, punjabis are famous for being a warrior class. taller, bigger. >> yes. they're big. >> still maybe not fighters so much but still eaters. >> oh, yeah. big-time. yes. the religion doesn't matter. food is religion here. >> checking off my list of things to do in the punjab, i got to score some animal protein. it's time. i've been going all morrisey for

two days now and frankly, that's enough. i need chicken. we are nowhere here. where am i? >> it's very famous for chicken. >> when we are talking must-haves, tandori chicken is just that. >> i have some lemon in this. you will enjoy it. >> oh, man, it's delicious. this type of establishment, dhaba? >> this is the most successful business here. anyone who open a dhaba tomorrow, it will be like this. >> but if you're going to have chicken it better be good. >> yeah. would you like to have something else? >> there's ground mutton? mutton ball, dough. and the special ingredient, magic hands.

believe me when i tell you, this is good. so good that people snap it up the second it comes out of the tandora. hey, that's mine. mm. >> is it good? >> sensational. wow. >> people do love their food. >> i love eating. >> the movies and television in this country is fantastic. i don't even understand why -- what's going on. everybody dances and sings. i don't get it. ♪

>> would you like to have something else? >> no, this is good. oh, yeah. ♪ wow. oh, yeah. mm, that's good. thank you. no, nothing, thank you. delicious. so good. ted by my butler, larry. my helipad is being re-surfaced so tonight we travel by more humble means. at my country club, we play parlor games with members of the royal family. yes

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♪ leaving the fertile plains of the punjab behind, i'm headed out towards the himalayas. in getting there, at least the way i'm going, hasn't changed much in the last hundred years. all aboard. ♪ this is going to be suboptimal seating. i don't think this reclines. thank god they have relaxed attitudes towards prescription drugs. before you enter the gateway to the himalayas, you better self-medicate. ♪ meanwhile, i have been like 24 hours without a bite of food. i arrive, it's like oh, there's

snacks on the way. great. get a bag of peanuts. >> truth be told, i'm an angry bitter man when i board. i'm guessing there ain't a p.f. chang or shone shoney's on the way. >> so little. the universal tourist. you go on the king kong ride. >> while my stomach growls, i become the kind of traveler i warn against, gripy, self-absorbed, immune to my surroundings. but as my brightly colored little train heads up into the hills from kalka station, known as the gateway to the himalayas, my world view starts to improve. the naturally bright colors of india start to pleasurably saturate my brain. the view of the windows, ridiculously deep valleys,

hundred-year-old bridges, it's, well, breath-taking. my fellow passengers, too, are irresistibly charming. the school kids cheer in unison every time we pass through one of the tunnels. >> hip hip hooray! >> i had pretty much forgotten about my hunger until the whistle stopped. >> two of these. >> this place is named for a colonel, the british engineer tasked with building the line.

>> thank you. >> the station and the adjacent tunnel bearing his name are rumored to be haunted. >> it's delicious. >> already behind schedule and plagued by cost overruns, barog screwed up. when he realized the two ends of this tunnel didn't meet in the middle, he shot himself. it's the kind of personal accountability i would like to see more of, frankly. or is that just me? all my snarkiness fades as one can't help but reflect on what it took to dig, drag, blast and tunnel one's way up this route back in the day. back in the beginning, making the trip required a somewhat uncomfortable three-day trek up the mountain by foot or horse or

hand-carried pelanguin. the stats are impressive. the climb of around 5,000 feet, over 100 tunnels, more than 800 bridges, an engineering feat, a job that when you consider the time, defies imagining. in the building of this railroad, many died. many, many died. ♪

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♪ when you look at that painting, when you stand out front of the garden and look out at the view, can you picture the way it was? >> i have been to many places where it reminded me of what it's like to be when the british came and settled there. i have ventured to such places. >> fond memories of british rule, maybe not what you would expect to hear. but reggie's family was different. indian royalty with palaces, the 1% of the 1%. so life for reggie as a young

boy was relative to the millions and millions of others his age, enchanted. shimla is from a time before partition, when nearly the entire ruling class of british india would move to hill stations in the hotter months. shimla was once known as the queen of all hill stations. here, the colonials created england in miniature. complete with tudor architecture, rose gardens, afternoon tea. >> my grandfather, what did he

do? quite frankly, he did nothing but he entertained hugely. >> garden parties, fancy dress balls, elephant hunts. the remnants of british rule can still be seen. and felt. this is particularly true of one house. chapsley. >> my family was very fortunate that they were able to buy this house, because it was a famous house. >> the house was purchased by reggie's grandfather, the last maharajah. >> the brits really left beautiful buildings. >> from a distance, it looks much the same as it must have when the maharajah slept here.

check out the tub. >> locked in a constant battle against time and nature, barbed wire does little to keep shimla's ever encroaching monkey population at bay. stripped of their wealth and their kingdoms, the one-time royals all across india have had to either sell their estates or like reggie, turn them into hotels and guest houses in order to hold on. ring a buzzer and a servant

appears. they bring you hot water bottles at night, put them under the covers. butlers keep popping in, build a nice fire. >> a great facet of my childhood was how my grandfather entertained. his table came to be known as perhaps the most famous in northern india because he was a conoisseur of food. >> tonight, dinner at chapslee, an elaborate anglo-indian menu from reggie's childhood. >> i will put on my apron first. >> my fellow guests, two of

reggie's friends. a historian on the subject of shimla and the barrister. >> so much history here. while i take a dim view of colonialization, it's very hard to resist the charms of a house like this. >> that's quite understandable, actually. you've got 100 years of very, very intense history funneled into a very small place. >> this house used to house the secretary of state. >> this is eggs florentine. ♪ >> oh, that's good. >> this was a small town. >> small town with a very, very big government. >> it has the distinction of surprisingly, it was the capital of burma during the war days.

>> you have this tiny little village up on the hill connected to the rest of the world by a narrow mountain path and a rule, approximately a fifth of the human race for eight months every year. in today's context it would almost seem bizarre. >> mulligitawny soup. a classic example of what we think of as indian food in the west but not at all. this was originally a soup made by indian chefs to accommodate british tastes, is that correct? >> it was something what you would call halfway between a soup and a broth. basically, meat cooked in its own fat. it's a misnomer. this meat is not actually mutton.

it has sugar on it. >> here, back before the rail line, it would be a difficult trip. >> yes. >> but once they were up and running, there were many servants to look after your every need. you had a fireplace, a hearth in every room. >> and people on the regular payroll whose only job was to shoo monkeys off the grounds. >> wow. >> you would be carried around in a little box. this man would go and the common folk -- normally they were not supposed to look in that direction. it was bad manners. it wasn't easy for the people. it was india that paid the bill for all of this grandeur for all of the show. they did it at our expense and without money. >> at the end of the meal there's coffee, brandy and

cigars in the sitting room. as one does, or once did. >> very much, really wonderful. a lot of history in this house. one can be forgiven for maybe briefly forgetting what it took to build this lost kingdom. and how much the world has changed around it.

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getting there you may well have an opportunity meet one of those deities. as you tear around narrow guardrail free mountain roads, overlooking terrifying dropoffs. >> i could do heights. i've done jumping out of planes thing a number of times, but i feel -- like looking over that i feel it in my knees. you know, like if my knees could vomit in terror, they would be. would be vomiting with terror right now. they should have underwear stops on this road where you could get a fresh pair every couple of miles. it's like woohoo, that was scary. overloaded buses, water trucks with worn brake pads, aggressive

truck drivers can come wailing around the corner at anytime and they do. squeeze your cheeks tight and close your eyes. the isolated mountain villages has kept old traditions alive. ♪ village fairs serves as an opportunity for families who live very far apart to get together, play games, eat and partake in religious rites honoring local deities. quite a ride getting here. >> yeah. how did you enjoy that road? >> white knuckled. meet hasheem. he runs motorcycle tours through these parts. >> mine is the holy grail of motorcycles. it's so unbelievably beautiful.

>> so we have vegetable curry. >> yogurt-based curry. quite typical. vegetables again. surprisingly not a problem. good. one of the few places in the world that i can eat vegetarian and be happy. what do people, farming, agricultural? what are they growing? >> wheat for personal use. >> for everything. >> you want to check out the fair? >> let's walk through town and see what's going on. >> they come together. people are businesscy on their farms. they are going to come down and walk down and socialize with people. because it's autumn, everyone's done with the agriculture.

now they are batting down for winter. there's a lot of romance in the air. >>

>> you got to back up. >> we're at the airport. kim kardashian is flying from paris. there's a gaggle of paparazzi here. people are crowding around the door, jockeying for position. i'm going to bust in and try to get the best shot i can. that sucks. i'm the worst pap ever.