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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  May 21, 2014 6:00pm-7:01pm PDT

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from the public, maybe even suggestions from the public on that. >> i'm not sure you want to solicit suggestions from the public, you will probably end up with a lot of this. take a look, somebody hacked into a sign in new jersey and changed it into this bit of glory. i always thought that asheville was farther than new jersey. i don't think they were warning people in san francisco about a godzilla attack ahead. or notifying them that the roads were closed or because it is just too darn hot. i want to see them change a sign saying long haired freaky people need not apply. if you have suggestions, send them to the show. just kidding, we have no intention of doing that. but massachusetts may look for ideas and that is something we can all sign off on the ridiculist. use yah blinker.
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and anthony bourndain parts unknown starts now. this is the story of one man, one chef, and a city. also it is about france and a lot of other chefs. and a culinary tradition that grew up to change the world of gastronomy. it is about the family tree, the trunk from which many branches grew. and it is about food. lots of food. great food. some of the greatest food on earth. ♪ ♪
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what is it exactly about this place? over the past century, the system here, the tradition, whatever it is that took hold here churned out a tremendous number of the world's most important chefs, and as
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important influenced most of the rest of them. why is this such a gastronomic culture? why all the great chefs? >> because it is really positioned between the north and south. you're locked in between burgundy and rome. >> lyon, situated mid-way between the alps in the east and the mediterranean in the south. >> this was also a bottle neck when cars became the mode of transportation. >> driving the destination on the way to -- >> completely. >> out of that system came chefs like this guy. daniel bellou. like prince, or madonna, he needs really only one name, in new york or anywhere in the chef world. danielle, the name of his restaurant in manhattan. one of many in an empire that stretches from london to
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singapore. he came from here, a farm outside the city of lyon. through the city of great kitchens to new york to his flagship. >> when did you start working with food. >> 14 years old, 1969. i started as an apprentice in lyon. >> he started as so many cooks did at the bottom, as a 14-year-old apprentice. what was your first job in the kitchen? >> they used to just call me the beamer, i just washed everything. they make you carry the vegetables. >> 14, you can't do that anymore, can you? >> i don't think they can make you work 12 hours a day. and pay maybe a buck at the most. >> oh, the good old days. >> yeah, well. >> why lyon? why here? look at the fundamentals. the things that they think of sense birth rights, the right to
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eat delicious cured pork in unimaginably delicious forms. >> we can't live without it. >> pate, sausages, it is an art that is revered here and widely enjoyed. and few names garner more respect. >> just inside this room. they are coming and going mad with the predictions. >> in a relentlessly cold room, pork shoulder, belly and fat back are served through a vertical chopper, a sprinkling of seasons and spices. removed in large balls of finally but not too finally chopped meat. you do not want to get your hand
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caught in one of these things. then mixed with smooth perfection. >> a lot of work. >> spread out and layered for consistent seasoning, formed into shape and smacked to remove air bubbles. >> make sure the meat gets really tight. >> into the sausage machine and packed into organic casings. trust me, it ain't easy. >> let's see now, wise guy, let's see this. that is how you get pregnant.
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>> just release at the end. >> it is a serious work place, but with production nearly done this being france and all it is time for a snack and some wine. doing what i'm good at. eating. >> this is the sausage. >> this is so good. >> several days. >> another of lyon's most famous sausages is made primarily from pig's head with pork belly, shoulder, brandi and nutmeg for flavor. >> we're going to eat with my father. i'm going to get some of this for him. he knows he does really good work. >> huh? >> he knows how good his stuff is. >> cheers. >> it is a beautiful day in lyo
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lyon. >> in lyon, a city that believes absolutely in the power of food, one name is everywhere. the name that brought honor, attention and millions of visitors to the city. although there had been many chef hero, in lyon and even across france one name stands above all others. murals, bridges, markets, the name of paul is everywhere. but one of his most enduring institutions is this. one of the nation's great culinary schools. now just to give you an idea of the standards here, the kind of traditional dishes, baseline old school fundamentals you are expected to master before you become a creative genius all
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your own, meet these guys. the institute's top dog, chefs and mof's all, otherwise known as muffs. >> pretty much pay your flight home, private. >> master chefs. >> every four years, there are these mofs competition. the master crafts men of france. >> there are about 30 of these craftmen where you can acquire the mof. >> see the white and blue around their necks? that means they made it through the very difficult competition that pits hundreds of top chefs against each other where only a handful survive. >> so there are four or five every few years. >> certified by the highest in the land as being at the top of the top of their professions.
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mof challenges often include old school classics not unlike the one we're making today. thick slices of black truffle are slipped under the chicken. the rolls royce of chicken, then tied, slipped inside a pig's bladder until tender. >> the idea is to put the truffle inside the bladder. the dish they choose is always in reference to a chef of the past. >> there are at times the brutal world of the kitchen, it looks much of the time like a boy's club. but where did they come from? if we track back a bit for where it all began in lyon, to many of the chefs we now know and look up to it all goes back to here.
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the godmother. the original master. teacher, chef, force. two restaurants with three stars. an achievement no one, male or female had ever attained. and for many years, lyon's most famous chef. her influence runs right through every kitchen that has come since. and her graduates carry on her recipes and her traditions. this was one of hers, a signature. >> for the next hour you keep putting hot boullion with this, the most miserable thing is when the bladder explodes. as the chicken cooks the bladder starts to really expand. you have to talk to your bladder. >> i do all the time, please hold here, hold here, wait until you get in between cars. >> the luxury sauce of more,
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much more, black truffle and generous amounts of triple cream and fois grau. slightly pink around the legs but cooked through, the flesh perfumed by the generous amount of truffle. >> even if i were not a chicken i would want to go like this. surrounded by truffles and fine wine?
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. the roaring of a powerful engine, the screech of rubber, and off we go. kings of the road in our vehicle. two horsepower classics. >> no power steering, huh?
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it's like a toy car. we're going back in time a bit to the area where daniel grew up, where life was very different from new york. were you the misfit of the family? rebellious or? >> i was quite rebellious, my parents were talking to me about the idea of taking over the farm as the oldest farm. that would have been the logical thing. >> the farmer's life was not for you? >> no. >> he grew up in a true farm family. you milked the cows, tended the animals. daniel claims he never even saw processed food until he was a teenage
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teenager. >> a brief respite by the side of the road, and some passersby are apparently less appreciative of the final finer automobile. back on the road, and to daniel's school. i am automatically taken back to memories of my own school days. the smell of caustic pine cleaner, chalk boards and fear. the cruel ministrations of the lunch ladies slapping chow into the plates, powdered marked potatoes that haunt my memories still. ♪ ♪ >> pumpkin soup today with onions, nutmeg and chicken.
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>> this is marie, head chef, cook, host and server for 320 hungry and very discriminating french school children, ages three to 12, on the menu today, a pumpkin soup. served with homemade couscous. >> this is a very sophisticated meal for children. >> that is a nice meal. >> i was a little brat in school, like all the other children, variety? >> you want to make sure they always get a little challenged by how the food looks and the smell. and also the taste. i think she has a very strict budget. >> in the usa, greatest country in the world no doubt we spend an average of $2.75 per student for public school lunch.
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compare and contrast. >> 1.$1.50. >> did you you eat this well when you were here? >> absolutely. >> the kids attack their food like hungrily, wiping out three servings in the time it takes me to eat one. i guess they like it. >> this is good. >> i don't think my chef in new york would do better. i love to cook with wine, too. >> you're going to jail for that in the states. these kids eat fast. turn your head, they will eat your food out of your tray. just like in prison, stop, move it along. >> they come to you and serve you. most important thing, that is what we see here is the love marie gives to the food she makes and to the kids she serves. i think it what has a lot to do with the reaction they have to
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food. >> dessert is homemade farmer cheese with chocolate and orange segments. >> what do you want to be when you grow up? >> he wants to make machine guns? >> and generate machine guns. >> okay. keep an eye on that one. all right. for a dope fiend, feeding the monkey means finding this. for french food, it is this, particularly the food of lyon. and the writer, editor, literary lion at the prestigious new yorker magazine. at the age of 53, he pretty much
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pulled up stakes and defected to france to learn how to cook. what happened to you buford? you had a nice job, and the next thing you're living in france and cooking. >> i discovered a whole world that the rest of the world didn't seem to know about. just a very compressed intense life-long learned expertise and knowledge of food. it is not the food network and it is not glossy magazines and not something you get from a recipe book. it is something you get by just going deep. i was afraid of france because i knew if i took on the subject of french food i would have to go really deep. so we went and thought we would stay for six months and we stayed for five years. >> it is a unique institution, a casual laid back kind of pub and bistro with an unusually old school menu, people come here to
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wind, relax and eat with abandon. >> so you say outright, recently, in one of your published works that lyon is better than paris? >> lyon is a dark, tragic, well known eating city and everybody here knows they have a good life. and they don't give a flying fig that anybody else knows about it. but they don't actually want visitors. >> if you were to pick one iconic dish to represent this area, it would have to be this dish, fabulous river fish, pike, folded into a light dough, in a rich, creamy sauce made with fish, white wine and a splash of brandy. >> it is kind of a nice mix of france and italy.
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>> what a treat. put together in lyon.
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scientists have been researching why... ... many okinawans stay so active as they age... (elder man speaks in japanese) (elder man then laughs) (elder woman speaks in japanese) but okinawans know one reason... elder couple laughs) ...they eat well to be well... ...okinawa life has isoflavone, a key ingredient to the... ... okinawa diet. a secret of ... ( elder couple laugh) ... vitality from people ... ... who really know how to live. (female scientists yells) hey! (elder couple laugh) okinawa life!
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if you're really going to understand a place, love it the way it deserves to be loved
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maybe you have to live there. bill buford did just that and made lyon his home. today he is taking me where only somebody from the home team could be expected to know about. >> it is a beautiful day, the sky is blue, we're feeling the seasons changing and we're about to go into a dark room and you eat a menu from lyon, and drink a vast quantity of wine. >> who would be there? >> the only people who would do this, it is a very male tradition. you work hard, you drink harder. ♪ ♪ ♪ >> don't be afraid. >> don't be afraid. >> the mysterious, fabulous, goofy wonderful bro fest, these are basically eating and drinking societies that go back over a century when the silk
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workers of lyon would finish their night work. hungry and looking to get completely hammered they take over, stuff their faces like heroes, blow off the steam in decidedly french fashion. which is to say no freaking nachos or mozzarella sticks for these boys, hell no. >> some secret. all of them are like special memberships. there must be 50 of these things, remember if you're invited to be a member you remain a member for the rest of your life. >> the food is delicious, heavy, yet always glorious classics. like the slowly stewed neck and shoulder pieces of veal served over rice. hunks of bread and wine, and lots of it. >> saute.
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>> and it works. >> for? >> 50 years. >> do women have their own organization? >> yes. >> so somewhere on the other side of town there are a lot of women sitting and drinking wine and eating and bitching about the men? and then there will be yes, singing, no doubt followed by telling lusty jokes followed by the official serious business. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ [ speaking in a foreign language ]
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alongside and some say above the culinary giants, he received three stars in 1968. he sparked a dynasty of culinary excellence that continues today with pierre's son, mich oel, an his son, cezanne. >> my dream was to put his name on my resume. many have called it the best restaurant in the world. and in the '60s, the brothers pierre and john were early and
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important and fundamental innovators of what came to be known as nouvelle cousine. behold one of their classics, a game-changing, timeless, most influential dishes in history. it seems now maybe a simple thing but it absolutely turned the world upside down when it debuted on the mental in 1962. >> and when you have a dish this legendary, this iconic, no escaping it. the rolling stones will always have to play jumping jack flash. >> so forget everything. >> before this, fish was generally over cooked, served alongside elaborate garnishes, and starches. this ode to flavor changed the way we cook fish in restaurants
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today and how we make sauces, what our plates look like. i remember seeing a picture of this as a young man. i'm getting goosebumps seeing this. thrilling. perfect. >> it's beautiful. >> it's all about the technique. the moment you put the fish in the pan. the moment you put the sauce. it's very important. >> all right. >> from now to you in the dining room will take about one minute. >> right. >> one minute is the time when it's perfect. >> because it's cooking all the way. mm. perfect. it's a perfect dish. it's really one of the great ideas of the 20th century.
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fashionable. >> sexy. ot a lot to do. that's why i got my surface. it's great for watching game film and drawing up plays. it's got onenote, so i can stay on top of my to-do list, which has been absolutely absurd since the big game. with skype, it's just really easy to stay in touch with the kids i work with. alright, russell you are good to go! alright, fellas. alright, russ. back to work! ♪ (woman) this place has got really good chocolate shakes. (growls) (man) that's a good look for you. (woman) that was fun. (man) yeah. (man) let me help you out with the.. (woman)...oh no, i got it. (man) you sure? (woman) just pop the trunk.
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(man vo) i may not know where the road will lead, but... i'm sure my subaru will get me there. (announcer) love. it's what makes a subaru, a subaru. ♪ ♪ ♪ woooooah. ♪ [ male announcer ] you're not just looking for a house. you're looking for a place for your life to happen. zillow.
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when in lyon, one can't help but see a line from there, from the rustic dishes of the farm and the bouchon, to here, the classics of the great tables of europe. all roads lead here. a major trunk of the tree that goes back to karem and beyond.
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monsieur paul bocuse. the brigade. the way it is done and has always been done since escoffier instituted a military-style hierarchy into the kitchen. where the only acceptable response to any question or any command is "oui, chef." this is the special forces, the s.a.s. of cooking. and these cooks live to avoid, under any circumstances, disappointing their comrades, the hierarchy or monsieur paul. daniel worked here and so have many, many who have gone on to run their own celebrated kitchens. >> hello. [ speaking french ] >> in the '70s as a young wanna-be cook, i managed to lay hands on a french copy of paul bocuse's classic cookbook "la cuisine de marche."
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and i gaped in wonder at the photos. struggled to translate the descriptions of dishes so fantastic i was quite sure i never, ever in my life would cook, much less eat. if you could please say how honored and grateful i am to be here. this is a dream come true. over the years, how many great chefs have come through this restaurant and gone on to open great restaurants? >> [ speaking french ]. >> he always have a child somewhere around the world because everywhere he goes around the world. >> but bocuse too is and was part of the system. he came up with his own cruel
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and terrifying masters and their faces are here. fernand point, the tower and intimidating figure behind la pyramide. out of his kitchens came such figures as alain chappelle, francois biese, george perrier, the brothers troisgros, and many more. >> this was all the gang of the nouvelle cuisine. the '60s in new york. and paul and michel gerard. >> every great chef i have ever met has nightmares of they're still a young man, they're back in a kitchen and a chef is yelling at them. who of his masters? >> the woman. >> la mer brazier at the ripe old age of 20, monsieur paul worked as an apprentice for brazier.
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>> she was such a screamer. he say you would fall on your ass she was screaming so hard. she was the first up in the morning and the last one to go to bed. she would go to the market with three cook in the back of the truck and she would put the case of green beans or something and the cook will be sitting down making the beans, not to waste time. >> truly a terrifying figure. >> truffle soup elysee. i can't tell you how many hours i stared at photos of this dish, how pathetically i tried to replicate it. never, ever did i think i'd get to try it, much less like this. sea bass with a tomato bernaise sauce baked in a meticulously crafted millefois crust. >> this is a great moment. >> you only have three camera?
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>> the fish is filled with a delicate lobster mousse, chervil and tarragon and wrapped carefully in pastry. notice, please, the careful and expert tableside carving and service. >> he has been making the same thing for 50 years. paul has an amazing respect for classic. >> the peasant classic. >> tony, get closer. >> you are totally sending me every one of those pictures, by the way. wow. look at that. this style of dish goes back long before cameras but it's perfect. is there a more perfect assortment of colors and textures. >> in this one a somewhat more luxurious version. beef shanks, flank steak, ox tail, veal shanks, chicken, marrow bones, beef ribs, leeks, carrots, turnips, fennel, and parsnips. all stewed long and at low
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temperature, then served with its own deeply rich broth. >> think it's enough for the two of us? >> and then this. >> oh, my god. >> as if the chef had been listening to my deepest, darkest secret yearnings, the legendary yeve a la royale, an almost completely disappeared, incredibly difficult preparation of wild hare. the animal is first slowly cooked, then coated by a sauce of its own minced heart, liver and lungs that has been thickened with its own blood. after more than six hours of preparation, the hare is served as the chef prefers, whole on the bone, the rich glorious sauce finished with truffles and chartreuse. napeed over and over, until it coats like richest chocolate. absolutely the lost ark of the covenant of cuisine ancienne. >> everything great about
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cooking is encapsulated in this dish. >> we continue all over the world to make cuisine of paul many generations to come. forever. >> i will never eat like this again in my life. chef, merci. the meal of my life. >> today i was treated to the greatest hits of a glorious and fabled career. for the first and probably the last time, i sat next to the great man himself and daniel and i were served a menu that chefs will look back on in a hundred years and smile at appreciably, sentimentally, respectfully. ♪ oh, look. we have a bunch of...
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♪ so me and daniel were going hunting, and over lunch we mentioned that fact to paul bocuse, who immediately insisted, insisted that if we wanted to go duck hunting, we should come by his crib, and so we find ourselves in the morning mist of le dome, a rural area about a half hour outside lyon. and sure enough, in spite of his 88 years and the fact that he's been less than well, 9:00 a.m. on the nose, there he is, sitting on top of his beloved john deere with his faithful dog festand ready to go.
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>> nice fresh morning. >> that dog is happy. >> the great chef loves this place, and you can see why. ♪ >> monsieur paul can't safely hunt but is happy to chase around flushing birds for us. [ gunshots ] >> beautiful. >> yeah, it is beautiful. i could do this all day. that was about as good as we're going to get. >> you got a bullet to sell, i hope. >> if you look long enough, you start hallucinating. you start hallucinating ducks where there aren't any. [ gunshots ]
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>> you see that one falling? >> okay, not a moment to waste. quickly, a second shot. okay. >> you got it? >> yeah. right there. >> festand! >> between me and daniel and festand the dog, we managed to actually bag a few ducks. >> good job. very good. >> easy shot. >> then it's back to the lodge, clearly bocuse's happy place, where we meet up with some hunting buddies of the great chef. >> you did a good job, no? >> success. >> yeah. it's fantastic.
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>> is this the hunting lodge, the weekend getaway, hang out with the guys? >> that's where he comes every day, almost. look at the picture behind. you see? look at it behind. >> for tonight's meal, we pluck and roast some woodcocks over an open fire. cook up some well-aged duck and pheasant. >> they made this at the auberge paul bocuse. it's a swiss style mashed potato. >> is it predominantly butter or predominantly potato? >> is there a head in there somewhere? >> yes, of course. >> that's happiness right there.
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>> my father used to say -- used to say, i am a man of simple needs. and i notice that the chef. a nice fire, some birds. >> we can spend the whole week with paul, and we'll be hunting, we'll be cooking, we'll be eating, drinking, and talking. and that's beautiful. >> life is good. >> it is for me a dream to spend this time with a legend. but i'm thrilled that bocuse too seems genuinely delighted. >> you see, it's the one behind you? >> in lyon and all across france he's monsieur paul, he's the great chef, a public figure, a hero, an institution, always treated with the greatest deference. here it appears he's free to
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enjoy the simple things with friends and local farmers who talk to him like anybody else. it's a pretty damn magical thing to see. ♪ [ male announcer ] if you're taking multiple medications,
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18 percent? 20? purina one true instinct has 30. active dogs crave nutrient-dense food. so we made purina one true instinct. learn more at purinaone.com daniel may be a three-star michelin chef, but like so many of his predecessors he's basically a farm boy at heart. he grew up milking cows and doing farm work here, on his family's spread. there is, it turns out, something of a restaurant tradition to build on. the house on his farm was once a small cafe as well, operated first by his grandparents and great-grandparents. the famous cafe boulud, it turns out, was not the first place to bear that name. >> they kept it about 80 years,
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100 years, and then they closed it. [ speaking french ] >> no, no. >> meeting daniel's dad, one begins to understand the roots of his perfectionism. his mom, dad, wife catherine, and daniel collaborate. with some debate. on a super old school farmhouse classic. the sort of thing that good times, bad times, a family could make with stuff that's always readily available on the farm. check this out. it's a hollowed out pumpkin layered with toasted hunks of stale country bread, which monsieur boulud sr. bakes himself. nutmeg, grated gruyere cheese, mushrooms, fresh cream from the
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cows, and the meat of the pumpkin. >> and layer of bacon also. homemade pancette. very good. oh, man, it's heavy. we made it. >> is he concerned the pumpkin's going to try to get out? >> daniel's dad can be something of a gaulic mcguyver. you don't waste stuff around here, and he's a bit of an inventor anyway. >> how much would you pay for a machine like this? >> look at this. an old washing machine turned still. >> what the hell is that? >> so underneath we have the -- but to seal it so there's no air coming in, there's cement. it's not distilled yet, just fermented.
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>> leftover grape solids from the wine-making process usually used to make liquor like grappa. today a different use. if we can get it out of here. >> why did you put so much cement on it? >> we'll be using this delightfully funky stuff to flavor the steam that cooks the vegetables and the sabodet sausages from monsieur reynon inside the still. >> and we come back in an hour. >> at dusk we settle for dinner. >> look at that. >> there is the pumpkin. >> incredible. look at that. wow. >> the pumpkin is amazing. we also have that great sabodet sausage from monsieur reynon.
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>> look at that. >> cabbage and potatoes. all steamed in the still. >> the flavor you get from the fermented grape, awesome. >> yeah, it's awesome, huh? >> good. so good. >> and if you know daniel at all, he can't really help himself. he's popping up and down, serving everybody, making sure everything's just right. and sitting here with his family in the house he grew up in, you can see where it all comes from. >> madame and monsieur, their son, he's now a gigantic international success. but when he was a young man at 14 sneezing in a field, did they ever anticipate this? no? no early indications of greatness? but there is a line, isn't there, from the farm and haute cuisine? they all reflect the region hopefully. >> yeah. >> but in the best case they're interdependent, they come from each other. in fact, who cooks in the great restaurants? farm boys, basically. that's who always cooked. my deepest thanks to your mother and your father. thank you. >> merci. next time my father make you
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drive the tractor. this is cnn tonight. i'm don lemon. you and i both know millions of people in this country smoke pot. as i said before i'm not entirely unfamiliar with it so a lot were shocked when we heard about the texas teenager who is facing a possible life sentence for baking and selling pot brownies. we'll bring in a team of experts to go head to head on this. does the punishment fit the crime? plus, how far would you go to save your own life? would you take a potentially risky drug, one that hasn't been approved by the fda? that question may not be as easy to answer as you might think. the so-called right to try is legal in colorado but is it help or is it false hope for

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