was involved, he was in the payroll of the sinaloa cartel. >> what happened to this man? >> right now, he's very happy drinking rum, i think, building many enterprises, fake enterprises, laundry his money. >> to me the weak link are the bankers. a banker who launders money, he's got a family, he's got a reputation, he gives money to charity, his neighbors think he's great. his kids think he's wonderful. he's got something to lose. so i wouldn't be prosecuting drug dealers. i would be prosecuting bankers. >> the name of my book is "los senores del narco" because los senores del narco are not only chapo de guzman. and the leaders of these cartels. no. los senores del narco are also the politicians and bankers and businessmen. the people have to know who are these people by name. >> you have been a journalist for how long?

>> 20. 20 years. >> 20 years. your father was killed, kidnapped and killed in 2000? >> my father was a businessman. in that year many gangs used to kidnap businessmen just for money. so when we went to the police and asked them to investigate, they said well, if you pay us, we will make the investigation. so as family, we decide to pay because you cannot buy the justice. since that, i really tried to fight against corruption. that's why i'm doing what i do, because i think that corruption is the worst problem in mexico. the drug cartels are maybe the worst face of that problem, but the problem in the deep is the corruption. the corruption is the mother of all our problems in mexico.

>> it should be pointed out that 88 journalists, how many journalists have been killed in this country? >> 90. 90 now. >> 90 journalists have now been killed or disappeared over the last few years. >> yeah. >> here you can kill a journalist and get away with it. why are you still here? >> i have lost many things in my life. my father was the most important person in my life. i already lost everything. i don't have any life anymore. i don't have a social life. i don't have a sentimental life. i don't have anything. i just have my work and my family. and my work of a journalist is everything for me. i really believe that good journalists can change the world. i have received many offers to go outside to france, to sweden and other countries. i don't want to leave.

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i came to oaxaca for mescal. i like mescal. more and more these days. and this guy, ron cooper, finds and sells some of the best mescal in the world. we're at the zapatec ruins of monte alban.

>> in pre-conquest mexico, there were gods and goddesses of intoxication and ecstasy. the touch of a lover, the smell of a flower, the a-ha of an idea, all had gods and goddesses that took responsibility for those things. >> all of your mescals come from different villages and only that village? >> and only one maker in that village. we call our stuff single-village mescal because most mescals are made with a blend of different villages all put together. no one goes home and has a cocktail in these indian villages. they wait until there's a special occasion. ♪ every birth, death,

confirmation, baptism, there's a fiesta. a wedding is eight days. you invite 200 people. you feed them breakfast, lunch and dinner. you have a band every day. and then they really consume. don't drink yet. for mother earth and her ancestors. and then you say stijibeo. >> stijibeo. that's extraordinary. back in the day, it was cheap stuff with a worm in it and there were rumors that if you ate the worm you would start tripping, that there was a hallucinogenic quality to mescal. >> yeah. >> is there a particular kind of high? is this an enlightening high? is this a good high? >> the high is humorous.

you have these funny thoughts dancing around the back of your head. >> happy, witty drunk. >> yes. >> in oaxaca ancient indigenous traditions and ingredients define not only the mescal but also the food. >> one of the main reasons people visit our city is to eat. >> this is alejandro ruiz almeido, one of mexico's best chefs. he started cooking young. when he was 12, his mother died and it fell on him to raise and feed his five siblings. >> this is what we call pasajo. >> today he draws much of his inspiration from oaxaca's central market. probably america's most beloved food is what they think is mexican food. >> yes. >> and i think most americans' view of mexican food is beans, fried tortilla, melted cheese, some chicken. >> yes.

>> in fact, in particular when we're talking about oaxaca, this is a deep, really sophisticated cuisine. >> that's correct. oaxaca has these different microclimates all over our territory. and that give us this enormous amount of spices, products, fruit, chiles. >> like 500,000 varieties of corn. something like that. this is where the good -- grows. this is barbacoa. and this lady here is always make the best. >> tender. >> yes. tender, tasty. >> mm, man. greens and crunch. >> cabbage and cilantro. >> oh, unbelievably good. so tasty. mm. >> they'll give us some consomme. >> mm. man. deep. it's good. i'll finish this. this is just too damn good.

>> people have this barbecue especially on sundays. it's a tradition to have barbacoa. >> it's so tasty. >> all this pasillo is full of chilis. people think that mexican food has to be necessarily spicy because of the chilies we use. and we go for flavors, not for the spiciness. >> what most people miss is how really deep and really sophisticated the sauces here can be. like lyon is to france, oaxaca is to mexico, in my experience. >> you're right. also in my experience. >> not kissing your ass here. i was just in lyon. this is vicky's place. she has been cooking up traditional oaxacan dishes in the market for 30 years. >> whoa, that's awesome. cooking an egg right on -- oh, man. so the guy working the camal. first of all, a lot of the camal you see now are metal. that's old school -- super old

school. the way they did back in zapotec times. >> yes. >> on the clay camal. i'm looking over there, he's doing our tortillas. and the zucchini flowers with the string cheese. that's so pretty to see. >> omero's cooking, his focus, his passion, have very old, very deep roots. >> my family were farmers. and small village like mine. since you were six, eight, seven, you have a role to develop in the family. so my role was to water the chili plantation, the tomato plantation, to milk the cows, and help my mom while she was making tortillas like that. she would give me directions and telling me okay, roll the chilis, roll the tomatoes, i'll tell you how to prepare mocajete salsa. it was the beginning of my profession, learning from the knowledge of how a tomato should taste like when you cut it

directly from the plant. >> the way it should taste. >> that's right. >> oh, man. happy. >> this is what you should do. try the egg first like this. >> just grab a hunk. >> yes. >> then put salsa. >> yeah. i haven't been anywhere in mexico where the cooking is better than here. >> this is the way to preserve our culture, through our food. ♪ the only thing better than the smell of fresh-cut grass... is the smell of perfectly level, fresh-cut grass. that yellow seat's my favorite chair. you wanna find a john deere dealer? just set your gps to tractor expert. when my grandson grows up, it's his. but it's all mine now.

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the quiet little town of teo titlan del valle is about 15 miles outside of oaxaca. a town where the arts, crafts, and traditions of the pre-hispanic mexico are celebrated and packaged for consumption. abigail mendosa and her sister rafina are zapoteca, original people from mexico before the spanish. before the aztecs. this is her restaurant, where abigail has been grinding corn by hand, making masa and moles like this, the ridiculously faithful, time-consuming, difficult traditional way she was taught to make these things and the way she's been making

them since she was 6 years old. look at her hands, by the way. small, surprisingly delicate, given all the hard work, all the pushing, kneading, grinding, stone against stone over the years. then look at her forearms. the power there. it's impressive and beautiful. >> every time you enter a house in oaxaca, especially the small villages, they always offer you a shot of mescal. >> mm, so good. >> seguesa, a mole and chicken dish. this mole sauce, like a lot of the real old school moles made by masters like abigail, uses 35 different types of chili peppers and takes more than two weeks to make.

do you think that until recently, until guys like you, that mexicans were not looking back at their own food culture, they were looking elsewhere? what was going on? >> we were conquered. we are also a culture that was conquered first by the aztecs and then we were conquered by the spaniards. so we were always told that everything that was good and excellent has to be imported. >> right. >> and what we have here, it was just not good. >> right. another zapotecan classic, chili agua, a simpler dish of cow and pork brains cooked with chilis, tomatoes and yerba santa. >> as a cook, the main thing i learn was to develop a little bit my cuisine here. there was this space where nobody tried to innovate. still using the same techniques, the same ingredients, the same flavors, herbs, et cetera, but developing them a little bit. >> muchas gracias.

[ speaking foreign language ] >> i mean, that's as old-school as it gets. this is super ancient. >> a finer dish than this one you cannot have. this is something that you do not find anywhere else in mexico. >> a quiet night in the zocalo, the central square of oaxaca. ♪ but even tonight there's plenty of evidence of the struggle, the discontent boiling just under the surface. the graffiti and painting of this street artist who goes by the name yezca captures that

spirit of oaxacan protest. ♪ the last supper, for sure. >> it's a last supper but mexican last supper. >> who are these people? >> it's the most powerful people in mexico. people that is driving mexico. this is pena nieto, the president right now. this is felipe calderon, the last president. and that guy is like the economy guy, the guy that is, like moving the economy in mexico. this is the army. this is a prostitute. represents because they are like prostitutes, you know. and a narco traffic guy. he's like the god in mexico. you know? because he is like over -- >> all of it. >> yeah. >> so this is the way mexico works.

>> yeah. for me the most problem in mexico is the corruption. >> mexico could be a dangerous place for journalists, for politicians, for police. is it a dangerous place for artists? >> yeah, i think so, yeah. because if you not agree with the government you are like enemy. in 1936 the town of cuernavaca, 50 miles from mexico city, was visited by malcolm lowry. how did we do it last time?

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in 1936 the town of cuernavaca, 50 miles from mexico city, was visited by malcolm lowry. the tormented, self-loathing, brilliant, and hopelessly alcoholic author. his life work "under the volcano," is set here. it is widely believed to be one of the great novels of the 20th century. lowry saw symbolism and evil everywhere here. in the deep barrancas, the looming volcano that towered overhead. writer, poet javier cecilia, one of cuernavaca's most celebrated residents, has reason to see evil too.

on march 28th, 2011 narcos kidnapped and murdered his son, juan francisco, and six other equally blameless innocent victims. cecilia found himself moved to march to mexico city, to demand an end to the increasingly futile so-called war on drugs that was mindlessly grinding up so many victims in the crossfire and in the margins. in "under the volcano" the evil that's coming is fascism, nazism. what is the heart of the

infernal machine today? [ speaking foreign language ] >> what does he want to say? what does he want people to hear? [ speaking foreign language ] >> can he think of one place on earth where the good guys are winning and where you are not ground under the wheels of the machine? [ speaking foreign language ]

>> have you written a poem since the death of your son? [ speaking foreign language ] >> as i have come to know in my own life, drugs, even drug addiction, can be a survivable event. death is not. death is final.

-- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com ♪ beautiful, right? we can already indulge ourselves into something special, such a beautiful day. >> pony ride. >> absolutely. now we are coming to your most beautiful fascination side of russian legacy. the birches. >> ah. the forest of birch. >> ah, what a place. ♪ >> a h