pope francis begged forgiveness in his first meeting with victims sexually abused by priests. the pope also vowed bishops will be held accountable for failing to protect children. and a near collision caught on video. a plane taxis on the runway as you see just as another is about to land. and the plane in the air aborts the landing. luckily, wolf, no one was hurt. spanish aviation authorities are now investigating this incident. >> pretty scary stuff, susan, thanks. that does it for us. we'll see you again 11:00 p.m. eastern for another edition of "360." "anthony bourdain: parts unknown" starts right now. it's easily the most contentious piece of real estate in the world. and there's no hope, none, of ever talking about it without pissing somebody, if not

everybody, off. maybe that's why it's taken me so long to come here, a place where even the names of ordinary things are ferociously disputed. where does falaffle come from? is it a fence or a wall? by the end of this hour, i'll be seen as a terrorist sympathizer, a self-hating jew, orientalist, socialist, fascist, cia agent and worse. so here goes nothing. ♪ ♪

♪ >> i was raised without religion. one side of the family long ago, catholic, i think. the other side, jewish. i've never been in a synagogue, i don't believe in a higher power. but that doesn't make me any less jewish, i don't think.

these guys sandbagging me at the wall, they don't seem to think so either. >> only half. >> jewish? >> yeah. >> two minutes. you a writer? >> i'm a writer, yes. [ speaking foreign language ] >> thank you, gentlemen. >> oh, i've never felt so much like i'm masquerading something i'm not. i'm instinctively hostile to any

kind of devotion. certainty is my enemy, you know, i'm all about doubt, questioning when the nature of reality constantly, when they grabbed hold of me and in a totally nonjudgmental way, essential essentially -- god's happy to have you, you know, here you go. oh, man. my treachery is complete. >> just because i was raised outside the faith with no particular attachment or loyalty to israel doesn't mean that plenty of people on this earth don't hate me in principle, i know that. but the state of israel, i never really knew what to think. >> it's pretty, it's awesome, it's urban, sophisticated, hip. like southern california, only nicer.

then you start to get the idea. this is jerusalem. >> i'm taking you through damascus gate, which is one of the gates to the old city. and these walls are pretty ancient. people say the deepest go back to king david. and then they built up the walls so the top bit is the newest bit. >> and you mean -- >> i mean up to the moment in time the turks left here about 150 years ago. and the brits came and conquered us. i wasn't here. >> born here, now cooking in london, he is the widely known, respected chef and co-author of the book "jerusalem." >> basically, this city was divided into two until 1967 when there was the famous six-day

war. and the hole we're traveling and working in is east jerusalem. it was the eastern palestinian part and that up until 1867 belonged to jordan. so now, it's under israeli control. very controversial. because for the jews, the city's been unified. but for the palestinians, they're under occupation as far as they're concerned. >> we just have to go through difficult -- >> because it's so much part of the culture here and, again, contentious because everybody in the world thinks is israeli food. but the actual fact, it's not palestinian, even more so it's been done for generations here. here you get it just fried. not any other way. i want them to fry them before me. that makes all the difference in the world. >> it's a whole different animal, isn't it?

>> is there a historically provable answer as to who invented it? >> the one thing that is very clear in this part of the world, palestine and syria, it's been cooked for many, many generations. on the other hand, you get jews from yemen coming here -- >> they can say, hey, my great uncle was in syria, but i remember distinctly. >> there's no question as to appropriation or who owns the food. you'll go on arguing about it forever. >> the old city is divided into four quarters. there's muslim quarter, jewish quarter. there's a christian quarter, and armenian quarter. each one functions independently, but people who live in that area are all from that religion. >> right. >> so here you see the israeli flags over this house, so basically jews have bought this

house, although it's in the muslim quarter. but it's very controversial because it breaks what would normally be in the city. now we're walking on the steps of jesus christ. >> as i so often do. >> this is via dolorosa. people say, i'm walking in the steps of mohammed, david or jesus. it's like, jesus was here, i feel like i should be more something. a little bit more bias. >> it's too late for me. oh, great. you get your own crown of thorns? >> answer the question, what would jesus wear? >> oh, no.

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israel is bordered by egypt, jordan, syria and lebanon. in 1967, after the six-day war, israel took control of the gaza strip, the peninsula, the west bank, the golan heights and east jerusalem. in 2003, israel began construction on the wall along the green line representing the israeli/palestinian border. the wall now stretches 450 mi s miles. when completed, it'll span 700 miles. 85% of it in palestinian territory. on the one hand, there's no doubt that the number of suicide bombings fell drastically. on the other, there's this. across from jerusalem into the west bank, also called judea and

somaria, also called palestine. since 1967, 500,000 settlers have moved here, all in contravention of international law. though, in effect, it seems to make little difference. they're here and in ever larger numbers. this is one of our drivers from tel aviv who asked about the graffiti on the house near the settlements. >> so what -- >> if something happens in the settlement, kids from the settlement would come and have a price tag for every activity. so they come to a village like this, they will destroy cars, they will write on walls like this. it's against arabs, the state of israel is alive and death to the arabs is what it says. >> intimidating. you put two targets on my house, i'm moving.

this is a settlement with a population of over 3,000. relatively isolated from the rest of israel. the chief executive of the settlement and the former head of security. >> you see from up above, most of our town. the palestinian villages all around. >> it's an unusual situation, a lot of your neighbors would very much like you to not be here. >> i know most of them and most of them are happier here. because we actually gave them prosperity for the past 45 years. and wherever the plo came, they lost it. >> i'm guessing a lot of people would disagree with that statement. >> high-tech security radars and cameras. >> so from the high ground, you can see anybody walking at night, you could see from pretty far out? >> that's right.

>> could you identify them after the fa account? >> depends. we have our protocols we work with and our successes. >> we drive to another settlement a few miles away. hot, sun bleached suburban feeling. behind the ring of electronic surveillance sensors, the security, everything they feel they need. the school, public transportation, and a petting zoo. he's lived here for 25 years. he's a wine maker and amateur cook.

>> oh, wow. you weren't kidding around. >> the salmon is marinated to pomegranate juice. on the season, i squeeze pomegranate and freeze the juice so i'll have it all year round. >> where were you before here? >> i was born in pennsylvania. >> your parents brought you over? >> yeah. >> kids living in the relative, comforted familiarity of pennsylvania and off to what must have, at least in part of in their mind, seemed uncertain. >> it was difficult for them. almost all jews say next year, it's part of prayers that we say all the time. >> the bible, it's all right there. it all happened, that's a nonnegotiable position.

>> prophesies coming true, things coming to life. mountains nobody wanted to live on, nobody dared to -- for thousands of years, nobody wanted this place, you know. and then finally, we come here and everything is flourishing again. it's -- makes you feel good, you know. >> you've been here since '90. you look -- the arab village. >> yeah, there's one you can see from here. >> any point during that time, you ever go to anybody's house and sit down and eat? >> not there, but in other villages. >> you host and everybody else? >> coffee -- no, i don't, as a religious jew, i eat only kosher. so they respect that. so they don't offer me. >> so i've got to ask you about something that troubled me coming out.

the first house before you come up the drive to this village. >> yeah. >> the graffiti on the front. >> yes. >> the targets. spray painted on. >> yes. >> who done it? >> villains. bad people. >> kids? >> i don't know. apparently kids. we educate kids, kids are not able to understand complicated things. they see the world in black and white. when you get older, you're able to see the gray. and when someone hits you -- when -- >> i understand why kids would do it. given what you told me earlier, identifying the perpetrators within the -- within the realm of possibility? >> young people. >> why not paint it over? >> good question.

i don't know. maybe we should. you're right. >> elsewhere in the west bank, just outside of ramallah, -- meet betty and mona. two members of a group of women who call themselves the speed sisters. the first all female palestinian racing team. >> hi. >> hi. i'm tony. good to meet you. >> when i'm riding in a car, i'm the happiest girl ever, racing, it's in my blood.

here in palestine, it's very small, there's no roads. so when i drive, i speed. i feel free. >> did you find that people underestimated you at first? >> at the beginning, they could maybe make fun of us. but when we got good scores, we win our respect. car doesn't know if you're a woman or a man. a lot of girls want to join us, the speed sisters. but some of the families are very reserved. they don't like their daughters to be between men racing, you know? palestine is a reserved society. >> things getting better, staying the same or worse? >> you never know what's going to happen in palestine. one day, it's good, and the other day, you never know. it's a crazy country. >> the local police would prefer them off the streets for obvious reasons. but the track here such as as it is has its drawbacks. it's basically a parking lot

across from the detention center. >> what do thaw think about this next store? do they ever give you problems? >> one time we were here with the speed sisters and there was problems because of the prisoners. so i just stopped my car over there, and that was working. i wanted to see what's going on. and the israeli soldiers, they came running at me and started shooting at me, and i got shot in the back. it was tear gas. >> the canister hit you? >> yeah. so my speed sister, they took me to the hospital. >> have you thought of challenging the israelis to put up a team? >> i can't race because my car is palestinian. >> what if they come over here? >> they're not allowed to enter the west bank and we're not allowed to go to jerusalem. how can we race together? >> okay. silly question. that's keeping m the healthcare you deserve.

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it's right there for all to see. and it feels like something out of a science fiction film. this is the wall. from the other side, from inside this place, for instance, the refugee camp in the district of

bethlehem doesn't feel like anything other than what it really is. a prison. the founder of the children's theater center. >> so we are at the north entrance of bethlehem and heading to the refugee camp. >> so this has been here since 1950? >> yes. it started with tents. people were under the tents for about 70 years. and later on, it was not done totally as it was supposed to be. so they started building what they called shelters. >> first impressions of the camp, there's a remarkable number of kids. >> now, it's about 6,000 people. and the 2/3 are under 18 years old. it's a very young population.

and with the political and economic situation, we are in a situation where we have no playgrounds anymore. >> children play beneath the streets in walls covered in images of plane hijackers, political prisoners. >> 6,000 people of that number, 66% are under the age of 18. i don't care where that is in the world, that's pretty much a recipe for unruly behavior, i think would be the best. >> well, especially, yes, especially when you don't have any possibilities to get rid of the anger and stress in a creative way. after i finished my studies, i came back here and started using theater as one of the most amazing, powerful, civilized and unviolent means to express yourself. to tell a story, be truthful. this is, for me, to build the peace within. and hopefully help them to think they can grow up and change the world and create miracles

without exploding themselves or burn themselves, but to stay alive. >> he takes me to the camp's quarter to be fed. she runs a women's collective running cooking classes, helping provide for six children, one of whom is disabled. >> it's a miracle. kids grow up with pop stars, sports players -- >> yes. >> never a politician. it's unthinkable for a child to look up to a politician. or to look up to a military figure. sports or entertainment. >> yeah. >> here, kids 4 or 5 years old, every day, they're looking at somebody who, you know, brought down a plane. >> yeah. >> i'm not questioning why that is. >> i know. >> do you think it's helpful? >> well, i guess we have a

history. we are people who are -- they are heroes. and those that resist the occupation. whether they resist it the struggle. sometimes i have been -- some political parties one day put images of people who were killed in their houses. in the 29th of october, 2001, she was killed in her kitchen by a sniper from the intercontinental brotherhood. but when these political parties take this woman and want to make a montage of photos with her carrying a gun to say this is the hero who liberated the palestine. sorry, this is not true. this woman was killed in her house. you go today and ask the palestinians, who is the great

hero? >> you ask these kids, who will they recognize? they would recognize -- he becomes more famous than arafat and everybody else. this is another image of palestine. >> you could almost believe for a minute or two that some kind of peace, some kind of reconciliation, meeting of the minds, sanity is possible after you visit majdah, it's a restaurant that looks like an idyllic village in the hills, 20 minutes from jerusalem. it feels like an alternate universe for a number of reasons.

one is jewish, one is muslim, they're partners, co-owners of majdah and also married. together, they grow and raise much of what's used in their kitchen. >> very nice. >> their food reflects both their different backgrounds and their commonalities. >> we're going to spoil you now. >> so you grew up in this town. >> yes. >> where did you grow up? >> near the beach. >> near the beach. not the neighborhood? >> but we met in the neighborhood. >> mm-hmm. >> and we worked together. >> how did that go down with the families? >> wonderful now. now wonderful. >> now good? in the beginning not so much.

>> started with the questions and answers and slowly understand that we love each other and they can do nothing. so we continue and they support us. >> this is your special fried eggs. >> farm eggs? from your garden, tomato. that looks awesome. beyond word. it is incredibly beautiful here. i don't know why i didn't expect that. >> you know, a lot of people come and say it's like france, italy. and we say, no. >> you like our food? >> i do. roasted tomatoes, okra and -- >> onions and mints. we char the hell out of it.

it is sweet and smokey from being in the pan on high heat. >> so generally speaking, who lives in this area? mostly arab, ethnically arab in this town? >> yes. only muslim. >> only muslim? >> only jewish. >> only jewish in the village. >> and this? >> that's a zucchini that's been grilled. and then we use the sauce. it's that intense kind of goat-y flavor. very typical for palestinian cooking. >> okay. man, this is good. >> i just had this incredibly delicious meal completely oblivious to the fact that it's entirely vegetarian. if any of the vegetarian restaurants in new york served food that tasted near this, i would actually go there. you made it, i'd consider it.

>> and this? >> zucchini. >> and the apricots. the sweet apricots we had. >> all this food is intensely delicious. >> are you hopeful? >> of course, i had my children, i need to see them. >> i respect her religion, she respects my religion, my family. and together, we can build something for our kids. our future country. that's what we think, and that's what we give the message for our customers. >> part of the attraction of this restaurant, the fact it actually manages to do what so many chefs try to do here, try to mix the jewish ethnicity, background, with arab food. live in the same communities that we serve. people here know that our operations have an impact locally. we're using more natural gas vehicles than ever before. the trucks are reliable, that's good for business.

but they also reduce emissions, and that's good for everyone. it makes me feel very good about the future of our company. ♪

getting in and out of gaza from israel is truly one of the most surreal travel experiences you could have on earth. over 1.5 million people live in gaza. most of them considered refugees. meaning, they're not from the place they're compelled to live now. in most cases, they're either prohibited from or unable to leave. israel decides who comes and goes. what gets in and what stays out. apart from journalists, aid workers, emergency responders. very few people are allowed to cross into gaza. in 2005, the israeli defense forces left the gaza strip and

all israeli settlers were removed. now inside gaza, hamas is in charge. considered a terrorist organization by both the united states and israel, they got elected in 2006. this is laila hadad, native journalist and author of "the gaza kitchen." >> the catches are not as big as they used to be. and that's primarily because the fishermen can't go beyond 3 to 6 >> you continue fishing, what happens? >> they'll shoot at the fishermen, spray cold water at them, destroy their boats, cut their fishing nets, detain them.

it's obviously really risky business. 9 nautical miles, that's where the deep sea channel is where you're going to get the patches. it's the last of the palestinian area with access to the coast. you have the west bank just an hour away, but many of the palestinians there have never seen the sea, never been to the sea. >> they own a small farm in the eastern gaza strip. she and her husband are unusual in that they cook together. this is not typical in this part of the world or in this culture. they use their own fresh killed chickens to make the gazan classic macluba. the traditional palestinian dish with fried eggplant, tomato, potatoes, caramelized onions and simmered with nutmeg, cinnamon and rice.

it's a big family. children, grandchildren all living under the same roof. and it can get chaotic. >> so let's talk about food and eat food. >> yeah, yeah, sure. >> so this is called macluba. traditionally made with lamb, in this case chicken. they're very concerned we're being very rude and we're not -- >> yeah. >> we're not allowing the others to eat. he's saying, how can you be eating? oh. >> mm. wow. >> for me, being from gaza, a child of dias diaspra.

being able to discover this lost history, this palestinian past, plus, the food is really damn good. >> right. that it is. >> it was also important to be able to provide palestinians an image of themselves they recognize, a very humane image. because all they're seeing in the media, whether here or there, arabic channels or abroad are images of, you know, gunmen and whaling women and this kind of grim, you know, cinder block landscape. you're not entering into the private homes. what does a kitchen look like? or what does a family, you see here. yeah. do you like it, she's asking? >> really, really good. >> yeah? she wants you to open a restaurant for her. >> keep cooking like this. it's really delicious. >> three distinctive culinary heritages. those who hail from villages that were either depopulated or

destroyed in 1948 and they constitute about 75% of the population of gaza. they bring with them their own distinct cuisine. that's very different from the cuisine of the city, gaza city which tends to use much more heat, much more chili peppers. and a very sophisticated cuisine. >> will there -- in your lifetime -- i guess the first question, in your lifetime, will you be able to visit yafa? >> she says she hopes she can. and she hopes she can go to jerusalem, as well. she's optimistic. >> first he said, you're not allowing us to. and he self-corrected and said

the israelis aren't allowing us. >> go, go. >> yeah, yeah, yeah. yep. >> this is the normal tone of voice. he's not upset, by the way. this is how we talk. we yell. >> what's he saying? >> he's saying, you know, give me a permit. if they allow, of course i'll go. to combine solar and natural gas at the same location. during the day, we generate as much electricity as we can using solar. at night and when it's cloudy, we use more natural gas. this ensures we can produce clean electricity whenever our customers need it. ♪ wouldn't it be great if hiring plumbers, carpenters shopping online is as easy as it gets.

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laila's got something to show me. something she discovered on her recent trip here that's piqued her interest. so off we go. this will take a minute. we arrive at what looks like a pretty serious gathering. we're soon joined by her husband abu. >> it's an area where kind of the elders gather to, you know, resolve community problems, to, you know, kind of advise. >> all these guys are originally from part of israel. they're bound together by traditions and way of life very different from here where they've been relocated and lived since 1948.

>> does he think he'll be able to go to his ancestral homeland in his lifetime? his children's lifetime? what's his guess? >> yeah. preordained, yeah. >> and we understand that. we hope, and if not me, my son, my daughter. >> so what they're making now is basically baby watermelon, underripe watermelon. and it's a specialty of southern gaza, generally, but also sinai. it's made exclusively by men, as i was told here. as they begin here, they're fire roasting the baby watermelons,

cover them with aluminum foil and put them through wire like a rustic skewer and throw them in there. and then the idea is they -- they take the pulp out. that's what's going on. and then what they do while that's fire roasting is they knead an unleavened dough over there with whole wheat, barley, plenty of rich, extra virgin olive oil. and then they throw that into the pit as well, or they dig a pit in the sand over there. and that's fire baked. >> right in the coals? >> yep. and they mix that all together. so it's interesting. because right now, we're about, what, 35 minutes away from gaza city. ask anyone in gaza city if they've heard of this dish and, no. so even in an area as small as gaza, you see this very wide

variation. they're going to clean it up. ♪ >> many, if not most of these guys, are not too sympathetic to my country or my ethnicity, i'm guessing. but there's that hospitality thing. anywhere you go in the muslim world, it seems. no matter what, you feed your guests, you do your best to make them feel at home. >> we have to eat. [ speaking foreign language ].

you're supposed to eat this with your hands. mm, very good. [ speaking foreign language ]. >> he's saying if you eat this, you shouldn't have another meal for three days. >> where does this dish come from? >> this is a dish that's native to southern gaza, the sinai, sort of the desert bedouin areas. >> all the food i've had so far in gaza has been very different than in anything else i've had in the arab world. different flavor spectrum. >> totally. it's kind of its own little gastronomical bubble. >> why are you not using a spoon? >> i find that the food has a more flavor. i get a better sensory experience. even children, and they like to eat with their hands. he's saying god gave us hands to eat with, not spoons. (son) oh no... can you fix it, dad?

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thinking, when you see how similar they are, the two peoples, both of them cook with pride, eat with passion, love their kids, love the land in which they live or the land they dream of returning to, who live so close, who are locked in such an intimate, if deadly embrace might somehow, some day, figure out how to live with each other. but that would be very mushy thinking indeed. those things in the end probably

don't count for much at all. gatan galkowitz runs a restaurant just seven miles from the gaza strip. you and your family have paid the worst imaginable price. >> yes. my daughter was killed by a mortar sent by hamas. >> in some israeli towns and villages within close proximity of the gaza strip, bus stops double as bomb shelters and air raid sirens warn of incoming missiles fired from less than a mile away. rockets and mortar shells have been known to fall from the sky in these parts and no one understands the consequences more than this man. you were not a fervent zionist. >> no. >> you were not an orthodox jew. >> no. >> and yet here you are, at the spear point, right at the dip. there's your restaurant. here's a shelter.

>> this is a shelter. >> here you are. >> after the death of my daughter, i just start to talk, to whom? to people who want to listen. i know that my daughter was killed for no reason and i know that people on the other side have been killed for no reason. childrens, old people. i have been a soldier in gaza. i saw very poor people. i know there is interest in keeping these poor people. you can go far, far, but the bottom line is, let's stop with the suffering. >> you know, i went to this settlement community. >> nice people. >> and i said to you, you know, they were nice. and you said, you said, you said, they're all nice. >> they're all nice. i know, nice, very nice palestinian people. >> they're all nice, but if you

scratch, if you push, they all want -- they'll all say, throw them in the sea. >> most of the people, they don't talk. they are very upset. they are fed up. and the same goes from the other side to us. you have to find the right people on both village, also on the down, also on the up, and maybe they talk. and i am sure that is possible. >> the opportunities to do that here are very, very, very limited, it seemed. >> i agree. >> and i mean, one doesn't even have to speak metaphorically, because there is an actual wall. >> that is a wall. >> or a fence, depending on who you're talking to. >> fence or wall. no, it's a big wall.

it's ugly. it's really ugly. you can see it, it's not far you can see it, it's not far away from here. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com the newspaper headline that call president obama the n word. the fourth of july parade that calls an outhouse his library. poor taste? definitely. is it racism? who decides what you can and cannot say about this president. especially this president. i'll talk to the writer of. controversial newspaper column. also the toddler killed in a hot car. his father charged with murder and police have questions for the mother, too. unthinkable but it seems it just keeps happening. there is a couple arrested for leaving their 15-month-old in a hot car this weekend and a 3-year-old dead after getting trapped in his family car. what can w