you know, you can put the toothpaste back in the tube. you know, there's no doubt about that. but for the moment at least, things seem to be moving in the right direction, a country closed off to most for so long, sleeping, a 50-year nightmare for many of its citizens finally maybe waking up. to what? time will tell. keith, the salary man. tokyo's willing cog in an enormous machine requiring long hours, low pay, total dedication. in sometime bhas's called haroshi. death bid over-work. here in a society of tight spaces and many expectations, 2 pressure is onto keep up appearances, to do what's expected. to not let the interior life become exterior. but at night, things are

different.

>> what do you need to know? >> first time i came here, it was transformative. it was a powerful and violent experience. it was just like taking acid for the first time. what do i do now? i see the whole world in a different way. i often compare the experience of going to japan the first time

to what eric clapton and pete townsend must have gone through, mid-reigning guitar guys of england, what they must have gone to the week that jhendrix came to town. a whole window opens up into a whole new thing. what does this mean? what do i have to say? what do i have to do now? welcome to tokyo. you are not vital.

this is the other tokyo. 12 hour flight and i'm baked. might as well. must go out. . near my hotel, the advantage of the subterranean life where the repressed japanese male around some females, too, comes out to play. joining me is production manager. always a good time when the entertainer sprats from the soon-to-be entertained, right? prepare yourself for the greatest chobe in the history of entertainment.

s

. >> no, no, it can't be over. not yet. but, yet, yet it is.

>> generally speaking, the overworked salary man can find the attention of seemingly acorned dorned fascination. >> your job is interesting. i don't care what your wife says, i think you're really interesting. >> penetration bid a q-tip in the ear followed by a personal lover spell in this case to make your tea taste better.

>> what is this place? what's happening here? >> this is not for men, but for middle-aged ladies. >> a million guys wondering around here looking to get [bleep] and then you have a bunch of middle-aged housewives coming here. why don't they come to the same club around somebody can actually have sex. >> people don't like rejected, so they sort of pay for their pleasure. maybe you can feel like,oh, maybe i'm not that bad. >> that's the saddest thing i've ever heard. >> is the business for dream sns. >> it is for the dream of doing so chrks is never going to happen. >> really?

all of this is a very enticing situation. >> wait a pin it. that's a boy. >> oh, man. whatever. golden god. one of my favorite places to drink in tokyo. >> this police station is one of the favorites. bar albatross. the definition of a hole in the wall.

>> now, did you come here right from work, drink all night and then go back to work? would a plan bring his wife here? >> look, in america, a bartender is like a priest. i can tell him all of my problems, i can behave very badly and he will never talk. ever. >> they have a they have a con tract.

so i have a guarantee of total security. this is a great country. every chef i know wants to die here. the food is awesome. i still don't understand the foreign here? why is it okay to hit somebody with a penis but not ok with an octopus tentacle?

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in japan, the very rich tradition of martial arts. many styles. many schools. the ward focuses on boxing. and this man is a legend. teaching generations of fighters using a simple and effective philosophy that has some real application to our stories. there it is. pacing up a wall behind the rink. one speed, two timing, three, distance. the same idea applies to the convention-shutting sushi techniques. until recently, the chef partner of one of the very best, if not the best sushi restaurant in new york, sush gesuda.

>> a short while ago, he left the manhattan restaurant that still bears his name and, at age 52, moved to tokyo to start all over again. i was determined to track him down to see what he was doing. his wife, is his only helper: i welcome to new place. thank you so much for coming. >> why did you do such a hard thing? >> this place, tokyo, is kient of the mecca of sushi. i want to be the sushi chef in tokyo. >> he's a very, very interesting

and complex man who constantly surprises. >> i wait, wait, wait. that's very frechblg of you. >> so many things separate yasuda from other japanese sushi ves xxs. the most noticeable is his hands. they're huge. from years of pounding cement walls during repeated daily practice. hi first trained and come peeted in tokyo.

he'd fight until someone gets beaten to the ground. every second is important. rice is getting cold, seaweed is getting soggy, fish, less-than-perfect temperature. look at his posture. a fighter's stance. distance. knowing the perfect spot to be. always ready for the next move. >> most people don't understand sushi. most people say oh, i had the best sushi last night. it was the freshest fish. right out of the ocean. >> the freshest fish, there's no taste. people think freshest should be good. but it wasn't.

he does not buy ridiculously expensive tuna that people pay hundreds of dollars a pound for. instead, he buys tunas from the heads he cures if result where it will stay for a week or

longer at-82 degrees celsius. he pioneered years ago in new york where if you bothered to ask, he would proudly tell you that the absolutely unbelievably sublime piece of perfect sushi you're eating was frozen. >> delicious. thank you very much. which is more important, the rice or the fish? rice. more important. about 95%. fish is a second ingreed yent. the main ingredient is rice. so my sush sirks rice. >> yasuda still played us though his fighting days of over. he said he was tired of hurting people.

he brings me to the gym to show how his sushi technique fighting neek are one in the same. people ask me, what is the difference between the karate and the sushi. but this movement, it was the stance. the stansz is a bit more upper.

so this stance is more deep. the body stance. move this, move this. so this karate is my sushi moves.

>> this is underground. you can work on your legs for five, seven minutes. what happened? no excuse. don't give up. blank blavng

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. those who buy into the notion that japanese women, shy, giggling, subservient beings of convention would be confused by tomeka. people, as everywhere, if you look deeper, can surprise you.

her day job is doing this. i gather, from what she tells me, that she gets plenty of work. >> the ward of tokyo. another complicated ward of businesses layer upon layer excuted businesses well-represented. a place to have a beer and some sake.

or many beers and many sakes. and salty, savory picked snacks. we go to one of them to meet some friends. there's kusai, followed by beef intestine and chicken. this place is known for its intestine stew with miso. so we ordered some of that, as well. there's this man, one of the best-known and most respected practitioners. a master of shibani, the heart

of ropes, beautiful knots that, for lack of a better word, we call bondage. >> how big is the say doe masochistic community? >> hundred thousand people. >> a lot? >> a lot. >> this is shibi. translation, vine. confusing for those looking for a concise reaction to what sure as hell looks pretty disturbing. tameka spends her time whipping, burning and generally abusing men in her long time relationship. >> she looks like a very delicate procedure. does it hurt? or does that feel good?

>> okay. >> oh, she said when she tied up, no need to think. craft, fetish or compulsion, it's an old, shockingly om omnipresent feature of the japanese. it's not far from the surface. >> what the japanese are

interested in either tieing up or something? >> the question is, how many japanese men like to be tied up. so in your experience, all japanese women like to tie men up. so in your experience, all japanese men like to be tied up.

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mpx rjs in america, where i come from, we put aside childish things. brutal realities of the real world. real combat. real sex.

japan, increasing numbers of people. they'll continue to live a life inside four walls. inside their mind, the life we call of the computer geek, the nerd. it's avatars. a whole subculture. now, a proud identifier. the geek. one who has turned his back and found satisfaction elsewhere. he found a different culture here. there's yawe, for example, otherwise known as boys love ma nurks ga. extremely popular with teenage girls. stories change, but the core themes are sexual am big yousz boys getting very friendly with each other. it's what they find compelling in the thousands.

>> like few others, father that can only be described as tentacle porn. his 1986 doji was found half human, half space invaders in search of an evil, supreme being. it contained unbelievably graphic, lurid, violent and offensive images of sex acts involving not sex organs, but other prodrew troou dens.

indicating a huge [expletive], both in live action films, a whole genera of extraordinarily well-drawn magnets. he tries to explain. >> so a lot of them make high school. they say school. notice the distinguished owner and her frankly shocked horrifying images of rape and murder spread fantastically across the table for all to see. >> the big breakthrough was you couldn't draw penises. you could blt draw specifically

orifices. >> when you met him at the time, if you go to youtube now, there's hengu manga, demon man grksz a. a lot. for dinner, there's hita.

commonly favored sumo wrestle i recalls. it's a hot pocket of beef and vegtabkes. chicken, pork, beef, fish bowls keep getting fed into the pot. >> so get into the hidden desires. men want filthier? dirtier? more vie lebt? >> in japan, you can be rude in public, right? but you need, you know, probably the manga is the one male can do that. >> generally speaking, what do women want?

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the tea in tokyo is not that different than ours. but, like i said, not so different than us. picture an army of miley cyrus. they don't get to a record deal. how friendly? not.

>> so, yeah, how big of an audience in japan for a flash metal? a little hard core. >> we had bonds. and i feel like the heavy metals with a mere movement. >> and the audiences here? >> they're very quiet and just watching us. when we finished, they started here. >> i look at selling millions of records in america. it makes me angry, actually.

>> yeah, if i see nicklback, i want to kill myself. i want to kill them and then i want to kill myself and then i want to kill everybody who listens to them. okay. who do you hate? what band do you hate? who's the worst band in the world. the worst popular band in the world. >> my chemical romance. >> oh, my chemical romance, yes. take them. >> that's a good one.

>> can you make a living? >> no. not at all. >> not at all. >> you all have jobs? so what do your families think when they see you doing this kind of >> we are 22 to 25 years old. it's the hunting job season. in our lives. >> so there's pressure on you. >> yeah. we all went to university. >> right. the expectation, the pressure is okay, get a real job. >> yeah. >> put aside this rock 'n' roll [ expletive ] and get a real job. in a perfect world, would you like to play rock 'n' roll every night? would you like to play metal every night? >> yeah. i could be cleaning toilets if i could keep doing this. >> and you? yeah, these guys look like lifers. ♪

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tokyo may well be the most amazing food city in the world. with a nearly unimaginable variety of places stacked one on top of the other, tucked away on every level of densely packed city streets. at lawsons you can dig into their unnaturally fluffy, insanely delicious, incongruously addictive egg salad sandwiches. i love them! layer after layer after layer of awesome. crowded eateries serving who knows what. but it all smells delicious and looks enticing. in the tiny almost micro-neighborhood of nakamaguro, tokyo, all is quiet. and amazingly for right here in the middle of this eye-goggling, pinball machine of a city, green. yasuda lives near here and he loves this place. a low-key joint to enjoy family meals and meet friends.

>> i so much appreciate seeing you and all of the people from the u.s. >> well, we miss you. >> i miss new york city. >> i'll tell you something really terrible. every relationship i've ever had with a woman, at some point very early on i bring them to yasuda in new york. and i would watch how they eat. if they talk too much, if they didn't understand how to eat sushi, if they did not eat the uni, we will never have a relationship. that's it. it's the end. they don't serve high-end sushi here. or elaborate kaiseki-inspired fare. it's almost like hipster tempura. this style of food is known as kushiagei. skewers of delicious things dipped in batter and fried perfectly.

yasuda-san orders up slim. and basil, lotus root, octopus, and pickled quail eggs. we also have to have their take on okonomiyagi, an egg batter pancake that can be filled with many things. for us, it's squid brushed with worcestershire sauce. >> wow. that's awesome. >> i've been coming here many times, but this is the first time to eat this. >> yeah. love this dish. you lived in new york, what, 14 years? 18 years? >> 27 years. since 1984 to 2011. >> 27 years in new york. that changes a person. >> very much. >> you're a new yorker now. >> yes. >> what was the hardest thing to get used to when you first came here? >> culture. >> the culture. >> the culture is so much different between the u.s. and here. and manhattan is so interesting always. i never, ever get bored. in that city. >> i never get bored and i always learn new things in

manhattan. but there's 15, 20 different manhattans in tokyo to me. i mean, shin joouku, shimuyu, roppongi. from my perspective these are completely different cities. even building to building. pachinko down here. nightclub for men, nightclub for girls, nightclub for rock 'n rollers, hair salon. but all up. 15 different businesses in one building. one building. >> yes. >> i could spend the next five years just doing shows on this one building. what is weird? what is strange? what do those things even mean, anyway? sure, a lot of what you've seen looks different from maybe the mainstream. it's certainly different from

the way we like to portray ourselves, see ourselves, at least our daytime selves. but roughly 50% of all movies rented in american hotel rooms are adult films. the american porn industry catering to exactly the kinds of dark urges we've been talking about, but even nastier is a $12 billion a year industry that dwarfs the hollywood product. our own obsessions arguably are at least as crazy, violent, and lurid as japan's. and we tend to actually carry out our violent fantasies more frequently. maybe with that fetishism, that attention to detail comes some kind of excellence in other fields. maybe there's a line from there to here. so who's crazy now? ♪

-- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com ♪ i remember the moment i first realized i had been living my whole life in black and white.