here of paraguay. that's the catfish. that's the dorado. >> ooh, that's tasty. that's nice. so i'm curious about this whole episode of the settlement of new bordeaux. >> it came about 400 people. they were supposed to be about 1,000. they were supposed to be most of them farmers. but just 86 why farmers. >> who were the other people? >> they were tailors, shoemakers, musicians. teachers and artists, and they were put in the jungle and left by themselves. >> why here of all the places in the world? people talk about the chaco as hell. i mean, it's hot here. it's dry. it's wet. it's fetid. if's difficult. >> mosquitoes. and you have all the ticks and vermin. >> a flatland of cactus and thorns and misery and cannibals. >> there were the indians coming down the river and killing everybody. there was the langua who if you entered the country, you are good food. >> did the paraguayans ever see this as a utopia? >> no. >> i'm sure not.

>> what we have is new bordeaux. >> wow. that's kind of not how i pictured it. doesn't look like bordeaux to me. ♪ >> there's nothing much left of new bordeaux. i'm told a small museum of artifacts. the site where the colony once existed is now called something else. >> perhaps there was a

communication break down somewhere, and he might have told the paraguayans, i'm bringing the finest farmers france has to offer and he might have told these french men, you'll get free property, you don't have to do anything, reach up into the trees and fruit and gold bars are dropping? [ dogs barking ] >> in fact, there was thrown out in the cold and say here you are. that's your land. go ahead. >> these poor french guys show up. >> right. >> lopez senior, and the government kept their side of the bargain. >> yes. >> they provided them with houses, equipment. >> tools and animals and everything. >> my aunt used to have one of these, made pressed sandwiches i think. okay, that's it.

dig, grow. the settlers quickly found out it was hard work and resembled in no way the france of their dreams. >> it broke, and they decided to leave the colony. >> how many french were left at the end of the new bordeaux experiment? did any stay? >> some of them, but few. >> all right. any thoughts or hopes that my great, great, great-grandfather ended his life here leaving me a vast, unclaimed stake in what is now prime cattle country turns quickly to dust. ♪

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so, you guys have some information perhaps on my elusive great, great, great-grandfather? >> mm-hm? >> yeah. i don't know what he did here. i'm hoping for something extremely glamorous, a river pirate, drug smuggler, maybe he died in the saddle. maybe he died happy. maybe he lived out in the bush, surrounded by adoring indigenous women.

i don't know. maybe he was an masseur for madam lynch. >> i contacted with other genealogists, and the history of your family is very interesting. >> oh, really? >> yeah. >> okay. your family, your grandfather came to montevideo. >> the facts as i know them so far, i think are this. my great, great, great granddad, his son came to uruguay to live with his uncle. >> 1850, john bourdain moves. >> this is the document we have showing him arriving. >> there he is. >> at that time, he was a -- >> he was a hat maker. >> hat maker?

i'm pretty sure he said hat maker, which i have to say disappoints me a lot. the whole elusive wing of bourdains were red carpets of their day? >> madam lynch was fond of things like french couture? >> yes. and that changed the way of dress. >> madam lynch might have been good for business. >> he put this in a light i can be enthusiastic about, by how forward-thinking my relatives were. >> his customers were a hat maker, the very people that treated madam lynch with utter contempt, did they live in the old colonial homes, the mansions we see still? >> yes. >> times were changing in south america too, in those days. society ladies craved the latest

in french fashion. there was money to be made. ah, i'm bummed. >> after this episode with the new bordeaux group came a triple alliance. >> he died in 1858. >> yes. >> it was a good time to die, this way he didn't have to joan this horrible war. >> he missed the war? >> yes. the old lopez died. the young lopez got in power. >> our man becomes president? >> yes, francisco lopez. >> absolutely the most maniacal, megalomaniacal. >> his brothers were killed. his sisters were jailed in tiger cages. >> tiger cages.

>> and their mother was given some 50, 60, something. >> the 60 year old mother was flogged and beaten in front of them. >> it was believed he had a chance to be married with the daughter of the emperor of brazil. >> he was refused in very unflattering terms. thanks to his ambitions he dragged paraguay into a triple alliance war. >> he challenged all three neighbors. >> brazil, argentina and uruguay -- >> to war. this doesn't seem like a good idea. >> yeah. >> in what would become the bloodiest war in latin america's history, hundreds of thousands of paraguayans died. when lopez ran out of adults, he sent children into the field

dressed only in rags, armed with sticks painted to look like guns. >> my great grandfather was a 10-year-old boy, and he was dressed like them because otherwise he was going to be enrolled in the army. >> lopez was hunted down, but madam lynch survived? >> yes, she survived. >> with her money? she was allowed to keep her possessions? >> yes. >> in history, it's hard to find a more disastrous or more cruel or pointless campaign, it would seem. >> when all was said and done, as much as 60% of the population and 90% of the men of this country were dead. >> survivors were just like 50 or 40,000 people. so that's why you could easily understand why there was nothing here for 100 years.

>> he dies here. >> yes. before the alliance war. >> an adult natural of france by the name of juan bourdain. >> cause of death? >> not specified here. >> is there a grave site? >> we are looking for. ♪ ♪

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so i'm hungry. i'm really hungry. >> you know you want it. it's late, you've had a few. now you've had a lot. you want something greasy, savory, juicy, and nasty. >> this is it. the legendary lovito. >> that's right. that's what the people eat in the streets. >> an egg, a little runny, please. some kind of meat like beef patty thing. throw on your lettuce and tomato.

two sauces, i don't know what they are. soy sauce, too. egg on top of cheese on top of meat. now get in my stomach now! mm. sandwich is awesome. >> awesome good? >> good awesome. all my greasy meat dreams have come true. that's good. and at the last minute, the last thing i give a steaming loaf about anymore is my long-dead relatives. i mean, i'm over it. here comes news of the big breakthrough. >> i talked with the historian, and he said it looks like your great-grandfather, what he was merchandising, it was definitely not hats. >> willie? >> we have here jean bourdain. and what is he bringing? 200 boxes of fireworks. >> fireworks? >> fireworks. >> like firecrackers? >> there is not even more than 200 or 300 wealthy families who sometimes in the birthday would crack a little bit. >> uh-huh. so are you suggesting something untoward?

>> weapons. >> weapons. >> yeah. >> he was a merchant of death? awesome. my aunt always said he was a gun runner. we figured she was full of shit. she also said she was in the resistance, but everybody in france said that. >> arms. so was he ever a hat maker? was this a cover job? was he a hat maker/arms? are all these historians on the money here? was great, great, great grampy an arms dealer? needs 200 pounds of gunpowder. i've got you now jean bourdain. i've got you now. or was he simply a party

supplier, selling little firecrackers and party hats to school kids? >> and in 1858, unfortunately, he died. >> right. >> and he was buried here, two miles from here. the rich people's cemetery. >> yeah. >> we can pretty well say on which area. he remains. he is there. >> wow. well, i guess we'll have to go look, huh? >> definitely, yeah. ♪ get to a better state.

♪

sorry, little buddy, there's no escaping, paraguay loves their beef. perfect ratio, little bit of beef, little bit of vegetables. this is a sprawling ranch bigger

than some of the countries i've traveled to, and it's been in the family going all the way back to the triple alliance war. hard life? good life? >> we are pretty happy here. we have everything. >> 20 years ago, the chaco was not huge. and the last years it's booming. >> where is the boom come from? >> we are the second biggest soybean exporter, cattle exporter, we feed the world for eight days a year. >> 100,000 hectares. >> barbecue has to be included. >> if you have sausages. >> could eat this all day, and i will. >> barbecue, you are complete. [ laughter ]

♪ >> mm. that's awesome. so were there a lot of vegetarians in this part of paraguay? [ laughter ] >> here comes the highlight. >> look at that. pretty. beef short ribs are amazing.

mm. so good. ♪ >> all of the books i read about paraguay are maybe 15 years old, and like the first says everybody has a gun, buy a gun. [ laughter ] [ speaking in foreign language ] >> this was not the paraguay i expected. at all. >> please, we want to sing a song for you. >> a welcome song to the foreign people. >> yeah. ♪ [ singing in foreign language ] >> it says, welcome stranger. welcome brother stranger. ♪ >> the jean bourdain who died here was my great, great, great-grandfather. >> yes.

>> this old cemetery. recol techlt -- recoletta. >> it seems most likely that he was buried there. ♪ ♪ ♪ nobody i know. >> it's very, very likely that the tomb was just oval with something on top. >> yeah. ♪

[ singing in foreign language ] ♪ . .

three men created the musical sound track to the whole wide world. the men tell all of them got cut out of the big money or just laugh at the absurdity of it all. hip-hop, he came from nowhere else. it could have come from nowhere else but the bronx. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪

>> for the most part the bronx is overlooked. the never visited bureau in new york city. which is a shame because the bronx is a magical place. with its own energy, its own food, vibe, and rhythm. you have been to brooklyn, maybe it's time you took a look at the bronx. >> the oldest, 1973, the sister was holding a birthday party for

herself in the basement of 1520 sedgwick avenue. as he was playing the music on his two disk turntable he began to slow the music down, slow the record. people stood up and said, otis, began asking him to do it he did it again. he attracted more and more people to his performance, and people began to imitate him. and that was the beginning of hip-hop music. it started in the bronx. >> moody's records. inside, rummaging for records just like he used to do is the man, the legend, one of the very select few who started it all, who created the sound that hundreds of millions of people now claim as their own. google who created hip hop. go ahead. you get dj kool herc. >> it's a national landmark now, is it? >> no, it's not.

we're working on it. it's still the birthplace of hip-hop undisputed. because i didn't start it with four guys in a club. i started it in a residential building. at the time it wasn't the building. we had a watchful eye over the recreation room. she was watching for any disturbance, and it never happened. that's how it survived. good music sells itself. good drugs sell itself. good anything sells itself. and this was something good. >> was there a moment when you realized, whoa, this is big. this is going to spread way beyond my neighborhood? >> never. i saw it spreading, you know, the dmc fellas, when i see that, the commercial, i knew it was going. it was going. it done took a big lift. let's say i don't have money and all that. i'm rich in other ways, but "time" magazine said, you got louie armstrong for jazz, you got elvis presley for

rock'n'roll. i could be between him and chuck berry. but for hip-hop, i got that. >> feel good? >> very good. >> historically, from the last third of the 19th century into about 1920, the second language spoken in the bronx was german. from about 1930 to about 1960, the second language spoken in the bronx was yiddish. from about 1965 onward the second language spoken in the bronx is spanish, and that's the way it is today. >> it's got a reputation as a tough place, crime, street gangs, a lot of which goes back to the way it was and some of which, well, like i said, it's got a reputation as being tough. the bronx is, let's face it, a big blank space in a lot of people's minds, even people like me who live, what, ten minutes away?

we don't know anything about that big area between yankee stadium and the bronx zoo. what you should know is that the bronx is big, really big. and that it's a patchwork of ethic enclaves, a cross section of the whole world. every immigrant group you could think of. ♪ ♪ justin has taken it upon himself to serve as the bronx' culinary ambassador. >> let the dinner begin. >> an evangelist for the cause of introducing the splendiferous delights to the ignorant -- well, like me. he has a show on the tv and throws parties that would make andrew zimmer turn gray and slump unconscious to the floor.

showman, conquest, explorer, and gourmet. >> bronx is so multi-faceted, but for some reason this is the first place i always take people. because this just oozes and emanates kind of that flavor of the bronx. >> and he knows what i like, places like this. 188 cuchifritos. with 188th street on the grand con course. old school new york puerto rican good stuff. get within 20 feet of this place and prepare to lose your freakin' mind. >> it's basically fried pig. the ears and tongue, chopped up and deep fried. >> chopped up, deep fried. the shank there? >> yeah, the shoulder. you're going to get that in there. >> oh, yeah. >> big piece with the skin just chopped up. >> skin and fat? >> yeah, like a meat candy bar. >> amazing.

[ speaking foreign language ] what else? we need some platino? >> yeah. >> puerto rico, i miss you. >> need some more. the bronx became the place i could engage my sensibility. you could really come here, eat, drink, wine, women and song and indulge. >> this is pretty much the center of the pork universe that i've ever seen in new york. i don't know anywhere else porkier than that. on this is the kind of thing i thought we lost in new york. one after the other faded away in the neighborhoods i lived in. and all along it was there,

right under foot, a gusher of porky goodness. >> there's a great line which they say, cele-bronx. which is, what do you think, this is the bronx? the music is really loud and someone's making a mess. to me, i take that as a point of pride. bronx is where the music gets loud, the men are tough. the women are sexy, the food is spicy. if those things weren't true, you wouldn't know what the bronx was. >> so the bad reputation is what protects it. >> i think the perception of it being a place where the funk is alive. >> incredible spread. >> yeah, man, it's good. >> it is one place you'll dream about. am i really there? i'm going back to make sure that place is really there. >> i can't lay off this pork. it's insane. actually gonna get a to-go order. no, love for my haters, yol and it's automatic. we save time and money. time? money? time and money. awesome. awesome! awesome!

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no, love for my haters, forgiveness for my enemies. move spectators on the day they shot kennedy. i'm from the bronx, new york. and i don't beg your pardon.

i was 12 or 13 when hip-hop was started. >> go and take a minute to listen to what these fools think. it's pure uncut garbage. let me bump, feel my energy. no logic, a bunch of false prophets, pushing a poisonous product. >> i'm not hard to find. i'm right by the zoo, by the gorilla cage. holler at me, baby, hoo, hoo. watch it. ♪ ♪ [ dog barking ] ♪ ♪ >> first to call himself an mc. another pioneer, melle mel. in 1982 he and grand master

flash wrote and recorded the album "the message." an album that was a complete groundbreaking departure from the kind of lyrics and content up to that point. >> before we started hip-hop music there was no hip-hop, so we played everything. reggae, rock, watched heehaw. that was like a favorite in our house. heehaw. and all of those things kind of became the components of what became hip-hop music. ♪ to the burnin' sand ♪ here i stand ♪ the weapon say mike in my hand ♪ ♪ >> i started out as a break dancer. i used to break dance. my brother used to do graffiti.

in all of those individual elements, it wasn't really happening anywhere else. so it was just something that could only have went on right in that area. in the bronx. >> okay. you may be thinking about what about the sugar hill gang? what about them? they were an industry band like the monkeys or the archies, built to cash in quick on what was seen as a fad. and they did cash in. >> the most popular record was rapper's delight. i used to live on the fifth floor walk-up. somebody was playing it next door. it was playing on the fourth floor, third floor, second floor, first floor. somebody had a boom box outside playing it. a car that drove by had it on. you could hear nothing. it was like a plague.

it was like locusts. and that's when i realized, you know, it's something that was beyond what we was doing out in the street. critically, it's not a great record, but if you play it right now, it's still a good record. >> in this case, at least, history has come around. today, nobody looks back at the sugar hill gang as having been originals or innovators. people know who did what. >> as far as hip-hop now, these guys are not trying to tell a story of their time at all. okay. they've popped a lot of bottles, had sex with a lot of women and drove a lot of expensive cars and nothing else happened. you would never know that there was a black president. you would never know there was two wars. you would never know those things, because it's not reflected in the music. and at some point, somebody was supposed to step up and make those songs. 20 years from now they'll still be talking about the message and planet rock and all the classic records, you know what i mean?

that's what it is. >> robert moses has been dead over 30 years now. and people in the bronx, for the most part, still hate him. his role as master builder, he rammed the cross bronx expressway and cross way straight through dozens of working class neighborhoods, seemingly uncaring about the destruction of whole communities. massive housing projects conceived as utopian solutions to stacking the poor in centralized vertical ghettos were also his bright idea. he did leave some impressive works behind him like the bridge, flushing meadows park, the verrazano bridge. ha. the bronx happens to be the home of the two largest parks in new york city. pelham bay and van cortlandt. and you see stuff here you probably ain't seen in central park. the garifuna come from honduras, guatemala, and belize. they trace their ethnic group to a single slave ship that crashed off st. vincent. where is home for many of the garifuna community living in the u.s.? you guessed it, the bronx.

>> living in the bronx you're able to travel the world without leaving the borough. >> right. >> and you know, it's like an addiction. when you go to another country, that first day on the market, and all your dreams and you smell the diesel and you're looking around, where's that one thing i'm looking for? to be able to do that really in your own back yard is really -- >> cool. >> we have an hudutu, that's coconut soup with fish. over here we have tapo, with banana, malanga in coconut soup. >> well, that sounds good. >> neck bones and flat head, let's do that. >> in garifuna cuisine, mashed plantains come with just about every dish. >> plantains are just part of it. you never have it without this. same method, same right hand.

same everything. >> there's fish and coconut soup. >> what kind of fish is this? >> blue fish. >> oh, awesome. i love bluefish. >> and some nice smoked neck bones with bananas. that's officially awesome already. ooh, that's tasty. that's really good. an underexploited fish, one of my favorites. you know what i've noticed already? the bronx is big. how ludicrous and shameful is it that i can literally see my house from here and i basically have no idea where i am. >> no fault of your own, but that's what keeps the bronx so amazing is that you have all these untouched ethnic enclaves. >> i didn't know there were hondurans here, much less, 200,000 garifuna. >> i said the neck is the next big thing here now.

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people from all over the world reside in the bronx. as a matter of fact we have residents from every continent on the earth. and if you count the penguins in the zoo that includes

antarctica. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ give it to me baby ♪ the well spring of hip-hop is right around here, a mostly jamaican community in the south bronx. jamaicans began arriving here in the '50s. and still today, the music, the culture, the music is all over. sundial international headquarters, makers of traditional herbal remedies.

a bronx institution since the '70s. >> this is one of the ingredients. this is the mahogany bath. this one is used for any type of body weaknesses. >> baba rashan, or pops baba, a grassroots bush doctor, healer. he uses recipes passed down from mothers and aunties. blends of roots, spices, herbs, barks and woods. >> don't care what is wrong with you, you will show improvement. >> whatever ails, he's got a cure. wood root cure for the blood, the body, the nerves. tea, an intestinal cleanser.

he helps to get your man hood back among other things. >> about 1956 when i came to america. so i can make it in the apartment. and when i'm boiling the whole project smell up. it would drive them. hey, what are you doing in there, what kind of hocus-pocus are you doing in there? then i'd bottle it and sell it in the bronx. the bronx is the best place in america. nowhere like the bronx. >> in the yard out back, some freshly roasted jamaican coffee and this man. a tyrannosaurus rex of music. a man who changed the world for generations. africa bam bada. they go back to the same housing projects. >> that's big baba. that's great. ♪ >> he and his associates in the zulu nation were absolutely instrumental in shaping what

became hip-hop culture, break dancing, graffiti, d-jaying, and rap. >> is it true you soak your records and take the label off? >> we put tapes on it or we soaked the label off. you know, you had spies in each other camps, trying to figure out what was their beat. i used to soak it up, put on tape to cover the records. and we was digging in the crates hard. >> you were unusually voracious in your musical taste. of all the records in the world, how did you come upon it?

>> i came upon digging in the crate in the village. i said this is a type of weirdo here, and i took it home and heard the sound, and i said whoa, this is some funky hmm. man, some futuristic type of funk where they didn't know they were doing some style of funk. thus came the birth of the electrofunk sound. the miami base sound. and since the beginning we always play tribute to james brown, sly, the family stone. george funkadelic clinton for bringing the funk from which the hip-hop came, and to you know, all the pioneers of hip-hop. >> up north a ways in west jamaica another working class community where subway service is pretty limited. and yet people have to get up, go to work and often make the long hump to another borough. afterwards, a person could use a drink. and if you're a jamaican person can you use the everyday go-to drink of back home. any time day or night. wray and nephew. >> it's a very strong jamaican white rum. here you get it with cranberry

juice with milk and water. that's what wray and nephew is to the bronx. >> desus is one half of a group. deezus versus kid marrow. it is a very fast free-form diatribe on what is happening in the bronx and at the city. he knows what's happening in the news or what happened last night. >> bronx is isolated from the rest of the city. the bronx is kind of abandoned up here. people get on a boat and go to staten island before they ride up to the bronx. >> i am inadvertently part of that problem. >> yes. they say the bronx will be gentrified. that's not happening any time soon. they always say it's going to be part of the city, but it's not. >> this is the man right here, who made today possible. >> thank you. >> i am happy here, and i will drink more of your wray and nephew, regardless of what it

might be doing to my brain, but then i will eat. >> is that the pork foot? >> pigtail. awesome. i love this. oh, man, that looks good. people sort of stop on their way to the bronx when it wasn't burning anymore. when ft. apache was something we didn't have to think about. >> let's just say this is the neighborhood where they stop and frisk. >> you remember your first time? the stop and frisk? >> i cried. that summer, 15 times, stopping and frisked, just thrown up against the gate, fingers to our genitals, looking for guns. but you remember that. when you lose your stop and frisk virginity, you remember it. >> i've never been stopped and frisked. >> i wonder why. is it because you have a cnn show? or is it because -- [ laughter ] >> i've been arrested. >> if you hang around here long enough, i can get you stopped and frisked. ♪

>> they talk about diy culture, do it yourself. and you better be able to do it your damn self in the bronx because often nobody else is going to do it for you. >> if you go to the bronx you basically go back in time. >> there are certain crimes that will happen here that are not going to happen in manhattan and brooklyn. the purse snatchings. >> really? >> yes. >> they're still crackheads? >> there's crackheads in front of that bodega over there and they are getting their crack and not bothering anyone. they are respecting parts of this community. you see them every day. there is a crackhead that has been here for 25 years. >> that takes some determination. >> if i could be a crackhead, i would be the best crackhead possible. >> i was a crackhead, and oh -- >> we've all been there.

trust me. >> hey, guys. >> hey, what's up? >> all right. look, i'm thinking curry goat. >> desa's uncle used to own this place. but that was three owners ago. now it's lammy. and lammy took over from someone who put too much cinnamon in their curried goat, which we all know is a sin against god. lammy fixed things. curried goat and stewed ox tail with rice and peas, collards, and yes, mac and cheese. i can't resist. >> correct me, if i'm wrong, there's a lot of good food in the bronx. >> there is. if people would get over their bias and come above 96th street they would find out. >> if the bronx were a neighborhood in manhattan, you'd have hipsters crawling all over you. >> oh, my god. if you live in the bronx, you're not necessarily going to leave the bronx because everything you want, everything you need is in the bronx. so why would you go past 149th street? so all that right in my neighborhood, the ethnic pride. people hold onto that. and it's true of rye lander

avenue. the italian doo-wop, all that sort of stuff. even this neighborhood was all white until the '50s. it's very recent, the whole immigrant experience. >> who lived here in the '50s. >> all white people. >> what kind of white people? >> white, white. we enjoy milk white. kissing dogs on the mouth, white white. but it moved forward. now you have this. definitely this whole, i'm from 223rd. you're from 225th. every ethnic that lives in the bronx has that. the next group that is going to take over here is mexicans. the thing is, it's an immigrant neighborhood. it is not a matter of who owns it, it's ace a -- a matter of who owns it at a particular time. and they're next. and i'm looking forward to that, because i enjoy a good quesadilla. but i made a good decision coming to lammy's today. >> good move. >> i'm always here for the curried goat and mac and cheese. lammy's don't play, man. no, it. you want to try? i try this if you try... not this.

okay. da!

the twos and the fives here are the greatest trains because they go from bronx, through manhattan all the way to brooklyn. it's the only number lines that will get three boroughs visibility. >> bronx, still here. >> yeah, still here. but like even then, that brings me back, tony. that sound. >> do you remember the first time you put spray paint on a wall? >> yeah. >> when was that? >> summer of '70. >> back then, seemingly

overnight, they were everywhere. princes of the city. their pieces stretching across city blocks, whole trains, ever more audacious. some, like this man, were artists. >> in the late '70s, to be on a rooftop like this with a brew or whatever, hanging out, we're waiting for somebody to come through with a cool letter, like oh, my god, look at that t. kids are screaming, oh, my god, here it comes, here it comes! >> there's mine. >> there's mine. but what if you thought the train you painted was on the left side and you messed up. it's on the right side. you just wait until this train goes all the way to brooklyn and comes all the way back. >> this was the audience that you had in mind? the audience that mattered? >> i think all of us spoke to each other back then. >> other artists? >> it was just the rush of the event and the accolades you'd receive, not from the public but your peers. >> futura 2,000. his style and that of a few of

his colleagues spread across the globe. >> i miss those trains. others, not so much. i get it. it went on and on until it seemed there wasn't an unmarked, unscrawled bit of wall in new york. but for a while it was a golden time. >> the whole point of being here was what the bronx was about. not just the music and the scene and coming up, we had the parties with the likes of van and kirk and everyone of that era. it's watching trains. it's what we called benching. >> you were watching each other's work go by. >> absolutely. >> art lovers. this was his museum, where he and his fellow artists would meet, exchange ideas, and admire each other's work. it is jarring to learn all those years later that it was really all about this. about a few seconds, as their pieces rode by to be evaluated by peers. there for a moment then gone.

like, well, all of their work from that time, long-since removed or painted over. >> ultimately, the legacy. here's our legacy. you know, we don't have a movement anymore. the movement has been given to the world. and if you go to trains in milan and paris, or whatever, certainly not the russian system, but if you go to some of the cities around the world, they're bombed. their rail systems are destroyed. i mean today, if i could have a train running, it would be epic. and i think any artist, if that concept was available, like, here's some public art, guys. let it run through our countryside. ♪ [ indistinct chatter ] ♪

[ horns ] >> take the six train to the end of the line. then do the same with the number 29 bus. technically, you'll still be in the bronx, but it kind of won't feel like it. city island is a fishing village turned what? a parking lot for pleasure boats and a long established restaurant row for new yorkers. >> picked the perfect day to

come out here. >> desus says this place, and desus is always right. >> how far from the neighborhood by car? >> by car? 15, 20 minutes. >> 20 minutes? >> seems like a world away. >> yeah, i want to buy some nautical bric-a-brac while i'm here. >> this is new york city? >> this is cape cod in the bronx. >> you get here, and oh, the beach is closed for medical waste. it's not a day that you don't go in the water and come out with a maxi pad stuck to you. >> you were here yesterday? >> i was here yesterday, for my sister's graduation. every time you have an event of note in the bronx, you have to come celebrate here. >> i noticed all the big catering halls. >> if you get married, arraigned. the baby's not yours. you come here. >> seashore restaurant. a massive fish factory, having started my cooking career in one

just like it. i'm also a sentimental fool, and i love this kind of thing. steamers, the true taste of childhood. boiled striper and snow crab and a nice cold beer, yes, thank you, desus. >> it's like a knighting ceremony. just sit up, and, like, take it all in. >> thank you. i could have done that myself. >> that's part of the -- >> it's part of the ambiance. it's the perfect place for a date, but it's the worst food for a date. it's either a huge turnoff or a huge turn on. you might give a lady a preview of what they're about to get into, a little bib, little sucking action. in an hour, this could be you. >> wow. what have i been missing all my life. this is pretty awesome.

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the first european settler

to come to the bronx came in 1639. his name was jonas bronck. b-r-o-n-c-k. in 1874, all the areas east were -- west of the river was annexed to the city. and in 1898 they decided that the two areas previously annexed should also become a borough. but what to call it since it never had a name before. they looked at the map and right smack in the middle of the territory ran the bronx river, so they named it after the river, the borough of the bronx, and that is why it is called the bronx, and not just plain "bronx." ♪ if you have a question about the bronx, chances are lloyd altan has the answer. born and raised here, he's never really left for over seven decades. this is a disappearing aspect of new york for sure. the real thing jewish deli. liebman's is one of the last. there used to be lots of places

where you could get your brisket, and chopped liver. pastrami, pickles. there used to be lots of places to get your reuben or cherry soda to drink. >> the world series is going on. howard cosell is on the air. suddenly, you see a tongue of flame licking up into the sky. and he says, this is the kind of thing that jimmy carter saw, ladies and gentlemen, the bronx is burning. the old image of the bronx as middle class, healthy area had survived up until 1977. this shattered it. >> the bronx was burning like the story, and that stuck. politicians make the bronx a poster child for what was wrong, would always be wrong, would never, we were told, get any better. >> so you now have a slum lord, essentially, snapping up large numbers of buildings? >> that's right. first of all, he takes out a huge fire insurance policy.

so he goes to these junkies and he says, you see that empty apartment on the top floor. i'm going to turn my back. you take all of the lead pipes that are in there, but i have one request, please. before you leave, turn on the water. and the water comes down, driving everybody else out. they then hire an arsonist, set fire to the building, collect all the money, and they leave. >> i remember it well. things were bad. are things getting better? >> is the bronx better? absolutely. there is more home ownership in the south bronx than ever existed in history. that doesn't mean we have reached utopia. how long it will take, i'm a historian, i look in the other direction. i would say my crystal ball is cracked. >> i got four cheeseburgers!

>> is it the best hamburger in the world? far from it, my friends. is it even strictly speaking a burger? i mean, it's small and square and steamed. it can be, especially when you eat a lot of them as one tends to, a hate yourself in the morning experience. but if you grew up like i did with white castle, this connects with some deep dinosaur part of the brain evoking a powerful emotional response. >> these are a great cultural part of my childhood. we'd come here 24 hours a day. guys on their dates. there was a bunch of punk rock kids. so along with that potpourri of humanity i just described, you had guys from the mental institute. >> that's community for you. >> that's the bronx, man. it was great. >> maybe you know handsome dick from bands like the dicktators. dick grew up, where else, the athens, the cultural geyser, the font of art and music that is the bronx.

and back in the day, like me, this was his special warm and happy place. >> i can go by and eat a full, two and a half hour meal and be stuffed and see someone eating a white castle, i still one want. you can forget mickey d's, if you need a white castle scratch, none of the cheap places will do. i can't stop eating these. ♪ of an overwhelming amount of analysis. [ all talking ] you want the insights that will help you decide which ideas to execute and which to leave behind. you want your trades executed in one second or less, guaranteed, and routed with institutional-quality technology. look no further. open an account and find more of the experse you need to be a better investor. ♪ who's going to do it? who's going to make it happen? discover a new energy source.

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[ children's laughter ] ♪ the bronx academy of letters is something of a cause for me. an institution whose mission i see is absolutely vital, if kids like these kids from a tough neighborhood, often coming from tough family situations, are going to do the things that they're capable of, of having the things that they want. i believe there is no way to realize your dreams if you can't articulate them, if you can't, with words, convince others to give you the opportunities, the

chances you need to grasp. >> i wanted to talk today, really, i wanted to tell you in a short period of time everything i know about writing. >> today i'm dropping by in my role as substitute teacher. >> i'm from manhattan, and i don't know anything about the bronx, really. i'm ridiculously, shamefully ignorant. do you think people know about the bronx, what it's like to grow up in the bronx? >> everybody sees the bronx as the emergence of hip-hop. and all that, the culture. aside from that, the bronx is lively. at all times, at night, in the morning. you hear people screaming outside your window. >> i grew up with that since i was, like, 7. >> yeah. >> it's happened that way. the sense of community. it's like the biggest thing. >> i have been teaching here for eight years. what people forget, we talk about this. they focus on lots of health issues, lack of education, but i can be out walking to the train to go to a field trip and say hi

to at least 30 people. they know everyone. >> what other bronx specialties should i be paying attention to? >> mcdonald's. [ laughter ] >> that works for you? >> yeah. i like bacon egg and cheese sandwich. >> that's a classic. that's a new york classic. a bodega classic. love that. >> i can walk outside and have an italian icy. as soon as the weather gets nice, you hear that. >> what is chopped cheese? what is chopped cheese? i have to see it. where does this come from this mutant cheese product? this thing, whatever it is, it will do just fine. as long as you're reading orwell's essays while you're eating it, kid. >> i think somebody experimented in their house. it's a simple thing but it tastes so different from a cheeseburger, which is what it kind of is. but it's really uptown or downtown to say i want a chopped cheese. and they're, like, what? >> so this is a regional, indigenous specialty? >> and it's newer. it hasn't been around that long. >> i've been just about everywhere in the world you can think of, as beautiful as many

cities are around the world, it's really in your blood if you grew up here. you're living in paris. you'll want a chopped cheese sandwich and will be angry that you can't get one. [ laughter ] >> so there it is, a peek, a narrow slice of an old, dean, and noble subject. ♪ the relentless >> sitting right there, relatively unexplored, a cross-section of the tasty original good stuff. ♪ so gritty i'm grimey a petri dish.

for talent. for culture. the great unknown. go look. >> bx, home again. ha-ha-ha. tonight, nrs nina pham is resting comfortably at the national institute of health in bethesda, maryland, where she arrived last night. amber vinson is being treated at emery hospital in atlanta. questions are swirling about exactly when she first had symptoms of ebola. the latest on both nurses. also, authorities learned a passenger onboard a carnival cruise ship may have handled lab specimens from thomas eric duncan. plus, proof positive that ebola has gone