♪ i went looking for the dream of africa. i woke up in tanzania. ♪

♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la ♪

♪ the narrow streets of the neatly dressed schoolchildren make it feel like a very different africa than i've ever known. it's tight, small. the architecture speaks of many layers. the hierarchy long gone but still evident. the famous zanzibar door, for instance. meticulously carved from mohagany and tique. they reveal the professions. brass bikes similar to india. the lotis flower and the symbol

meant to promote fertility. and chains, a reminder that this once was a central hub of the slave trade. ♪ >> what zanzibar is today is overwhelmingly muslim. 99% of the population. and you see a strong influence everywhere you look. the children are coming from the medrassa, the streets are neat and private homes even of the very poor are maintained with great pride. the call to prayer, five times a day. zanzibar part of tanzania but also an autonomous state sits

just off the mainland. >> the minute you cross the ocean from the mainland, you feel like you're in a different country and different culture, different vibe. >> this is a native of zanzibar and former tour guide and knows his way around these parts. so, what are our options here? >> this is what we call mandazi. >> mandazi, a swahili treat or basically a donut spiced with cormeander. >> care for a cup of coffee? >> yeah, let's do it. if you live here, if you're from here, chances are you start your day with bitter spiced coffee. talk about the issues of the day, politics for one. maybe a pastry. oh, that's good. so, you were born and bred here. how long has your family been here? how far back do you guys go? >> i'm half indian, half

african, and my mother has been here four generation. >> four generations, that's starting out in the -- >> late 1700s. >> wow. who built this neighborhood? >> construction started in 1830s in a portuguese colony. and it started in 1864 but they lost a lot of power in 1996. >> confused? let's take a step back. the persians were the first major power to set up here back around 975 a.d. expanding their empire onto the strategically positioned island. then the portuguese used zanzibar a hub for their slave trade and spices. then they did the same ultimately with the british who ruled from them. 1964, revolution. as with most revolutions, the days following were violent, chaotic and ugly.

after overthrowing the mostly arab government, reprisals. >> it wasn't intended for a revolution where more than 3,000 arabs and indians were moved out of this country. >> but your family stayed? >> my family stayed. >> why? >> there was no fmoney for the family to move out. >> tough times? >> very tough times. >> in about two hours from stone town, this is john biani, a tiny fishing village. here the first revolutionaries met from an independent zanzibar. total assassination in 1972. this, too, is a grandson of the country's first president. well, what was the political situation back then? >> well, it wasn't good.

basically it was english -- arabs in the middle and then the africans way, way at the bottom. and it was a form of apartheid, you know. >> was this village sort of a center for revolutionary -- >> this village was important in terms of the political support prior to the revolution. when my grandfather and my grandmother stayed right here and had meetings on the field right over there. that's where they would have their meetings to raise support for the african people, their it into identity. the objective was to give identity to zanzibar. well, this is the house. they are preparing a wonderful lunch for us. [ speaking foreign language ]

>> she used to take care of my grandmother many, many years ago. [ speaking foreign language ] >> she was a close family friend to him and his grandparents and she's putting together quite a spread. coconut rice, freshly caught fish called tasi simmered in broth of garlic and wine topped with a fresh salad of chopped tomato, eggplant, cucumber and potato. another fish called mackerel marinated in juice and garlic an pan fried. that's looking good. so coconut rice. japati bread from the other side of the water there. >> that's it. this is kasaba. two different types of fried

bread. >> wow, what a spread here. >> and you can use your hands. >> good. this i can do by hand. the rice, i need help. good. >> what do you think of the kasaba? >> lovely. the rice is great, too. whatever your feelings on revolutions, it is probably worth remembering that they start in places like this. people talking. and when they are one, they are often won by feet of the original planners, people who look like this. look at all these kids. watch out future revolutionaries. >> there's no ideas. how to change comes from them. think about it, the challenges we face as a small island country, doesn't the whole world face a similar challenge? >> yeah. >> how to preserve all these

things, find balance? to me, i see africa as a whole. i see a very interesting timing. >> optimistic? >> i'm very optimistic and think we have a lot of great people. and given the opportunity, i think they can put a lot on the table, not only for themselves but also for the culture of east africa and possibly the world. i think they are great people. why not? the sky is the limit, right? turn the trips you have to take,

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say you're going to zanzibar and people will tell you about the seafood. it's pretty impressive. in stone towns for downey gardens, vendors set up an insane variety of a seafood snack. oh, yeah, i would love some of that. >> we have shellfish, we have a mussel small shell, a tune tuna fish, mahi-mahi. >> good. let me find some of the octopus. i like hot. okay, good.

mmm. i like it, chewy but tasty. lobster is working for me. too spicy for you, ma'am. believe me, only one of us is going to be [ bleep ] tonight. and it's not going to be you. the famous zanzibar pizza. awesome. sounds awesome to me. looks good. thank you. mmm. weird and wonderful.

mmm. these stands are extremely popular with locals and visitors alike, so of course the government raised the rents. one guy, juma, decided to pick up and move his place a bit out of town. his customers came with him. >> this is juma. >> hi, juma. how are you? so what are we having? >> chick up and steak. half chicken and all the spices. i ordered beef for now. >> beef is good. i'll take half a chicken. >> chicken? >> yeah, sure. >> juma is famous for his chicken. the bird is slathered with a mixture of garlic, lime, coriandor, salt and pepper and grilled and served as a saw stay or whole pieces topped with chili sauce. >> preparation for this is saturday morning, prepare cutting and then coming here at 6:30 to finish about 10:00.

>> how many guys are working here? >> it's about six, seven of them. >> six or seven of them. >> all around the table. >> wow, it's like a big operation. he's finishing the skewers, i guess he's half-cooking or saucing. he's re-heating, finishing the skewers. that guy doesn't just set up plates for him to top with meat. then i guess they have the bread and the sauce and finishing to go, also. what are they squirting on the fries? >> his hot sauce, ketchup. >> so you never go hungry here. there's always food many the street. >> if you come here to buy ten skewers, you are eventually going to buy 20 or 30 because someone is always asking for food and you always buy it. it's just the culture. you always shell out food. >> there we go. >> and you use the stick as your fork. hot, hot, hot. >> where do you think the recipe came from? this is a real mixed up history

here? >> mostly arabic/indian components with the spices, most of the trees like mangos came from india, pineapples from brazil. >> tamron, southeast asia, not even india. damn, that's good. the chicken is really awesome. i might need some more of this. i'm liking the heat, man. good stuff. incredible. the 250-mile flight from zanzibar across the water to the town of arusha takes an hour and a half. but culturely you are flying from texas to the philippines.

kilimanjaro into whose white peak the hero saw himself disappear as he slipped into death. from there we head into the sarange sarangeti. ♪ the journey of this kind one must expect an occasional setback.

we reached the eastern edge of the sanghetti where it is a significant descent to the crater. a long time ago the crater collapsed on itself creating this kaldera, creating a truly lost word. inside the creator, an entire ecosystem within an ecosystem. wildlife pretty much stayed put. coming to drink, well, right below my place. it's nice. very, very nice if you find yourself here. a hot bubble bath awaits after a long day in the bush. perhaps a dry cherry of a glass of decanter. the next morning one rises to breakfast in one's chambers on the balcony, perhaps. silver service, hot coffee, freshly baked croissant.

good morning. thank you, sir. >> you're welcome. >> the rules of the house while slightly restricting are sensible enough and given the luxurious surroundings and the view, hardly a burden. you're not supposed to wander around at night here unescorted. there's lions and hyenas and baboons and stuff. i heard they can get a little rakey, but there were no knocks on the door. i know what you're thinking already, you're not going to go out there and shoot some beautiful animal in the brain. answer? no. what kind of sick [ bleep ] wants to shoot an elephant? even the toilet has a nice view. this is pretty much what you see because you're sitting on the

snakes. i dillic natural setting and good plumbing, it's pretty much paradise. and up to 10 gigabytes of 4g lte data. and now the next big thing is here. get the hottest device for everybody in the family for $0 down. ...so you can switch today.

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♪ it's nuts driving into the serangeti. after a short while you actually get used to the jungle book scene playing out in front of your car. it's interesting to see the giraffe and wild beasts, ski ze they all seem to pretty much hang together. >> the buffalos take the big stuff out. the zebras follow it down and the wild beasts are the closed crop. my guide is a fourth generation african born in kenya, lives in

tanzania and knows this area like i know the barney counter. >> about every tree you see here that's lying on its side has not fallen over by choice, it's being pushed over by elephants. there's an elephant over there. >> oh, yeah. whoo! >> it's a big bull. >> magnificent. will he charge us? >> no. >> if we piss him off? >> if we piss him off he would. they sleep so soundly, the zebra. you can creep right up. >> zebr as and more zebras you almost get bored looking at

them. giraffes look slightly irritated to be interrupted and stadium-sized crowds of wild beasts. the unkept looking things every 100 yards. all that's missing is a happy sound. >> everyone thinks wild beasts jump into the rivers, but that only happens two months of the year. the rest of the year they are trekking through the bush. to me this is so much more spectacular when you see the big numbers. you'll be in an area this morning that was full of wild beasts and go there this afternoon and there's not one. they have moved. >> thousands and thousands of wild beasts are on their migration everywhere. a big circle stretched out across tanzania in search of prime grazing. it's all about water and grass and a good place to make babies.

>> i mean, look at this little guy. he's keeping up with his mom. >> he's doing okay. >> within 15 minutes of being born, they are up and standing. >> really. >> running as fast as their moms within a couple of hours. there's a wild beast that didn't make it. >> how long has it been there? >> a day or two. very fresh. >> you don't want to get lost here. you definitely don't want to be on foot outside your car or injured, for instance. nature as they say is a cruel miscus to take care of its own without mercy. the evidence of this cool math called survival is everywhere. non-immediate family, you're not going to help a brother out. >> you would think, huh? >> start limping, first come the hyenas. >> they see the vultures dropping and that's key to them there's food up. and the vultures need the hyenas to rip open the skin to start eating it. >> by the time they stop ripping

out your soft parts and treating your femur like a chew toy, they call them the undertaker birds that are waiting for their turn. when i have cause to reflect on a pack of hyenas ripping out the guts, i think, you know what? i could really go for some pesto right now. by late day we pause for lunch. penne with pesto, steamed baby corn and snow peas, sprinkled tomatoes with parmesan and oh look, brownies. boy, the hippos are coming close. >> yeah, you can smell the p pesto. >> they are coming ashore. >> yes, dave. >> over thankfully cold beers, i learn who is really the most dangerous animal around here. yeah, that's right. mr. lovable funny hippo always in a tutu in the cartoons. a vicious, unpredictable and ape parentally incredibly fast

moving killer. >> you happen to leave here and go to pee behind the tree here and come face to face with a hippo, the hippo would easily outrun you in a big chomp, big tusks that will go straight through you, chop you in half. >> just get between them and their mud hole and they'll be all over you like justin bieber's bodyguards. it can get ugly. what do hippo penises look like? >> i don't know. >> do they ever emerge with a big hard on? >> not that i've said. they are under water. i don't go snorkeling. >> i find that comforting to know. [ narrator ] mama sherman and the legion of super fans.

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♪ they are among the last great warrior tribes on earth. semi-nomatic, they believe all the cattle are a gift from the gods to them. they move with their animals across the tanzanian planes setting up homes where they find the best grazing. ♪ their cattle are everything. the wealth of the family, units

of koucurrency, givers of milk live and on special occasions on meat and blood. the masai have strategic hamlets designed to repel and discourage predators. >> do you have a lot of livestock coming in here? this area is quite famous for the cats, the big cats. >> the big cats, lions, roam free here. an area called indutut. >> the lions are an enemy, they are a competitor, but they are also something that they greatly admire. >> swedish native engela johnson with the lion project is trying to find a balance between the needs, traditions and the basic identities of the people and the outside's world's desire to protect the beautiful killing machines. this is what can happen when a

warrior defending his cattle takes on a hungry adult lion. nobody wants this. for the masai, being comprised of the comings and goings of the lion population is a useful thing, good to know in advance. respect that the masai have always defined themselves and their identities but their enemy. a tribe of proud warriors, what happens when there's no one and nothing to fight? ♪ engela has brought several masai onto her team to show them up close the lions they share this land with. >> so often on my days out when i'm working with the masai, you don't eat at all. you get a cup of tee in the morning and then if you're lucky in the rainy season, you'll get

fresh milk or this. >> this is amasi, by the way, a lumpy yogurt drink similar to the masai diet. >> cheers. >> and before you say yuck, it may be worth noting that between their nearly 100% protein diet of meat, blood and dairy, the masai are known to have olympic-level stan ma and condition and can run miles at a time without rest or water and can basically kick your ass near any physical contact given half the chance. so help yourself to some sour lumpy goodness. a little honey and raisins in there, good to go. >> it's so different here, like the rainy season, dry season. such different challenges. what do you think of going under

here? >> i'm okay with it. currently, engela is tracking two lions n particular. ramu ss and pouyo. >> do you see them? >> yes, i do. i see them. wow. two of them. >> yeah. >> you like them, don't you? >> oh, they are magnificent. very admirable. he's a bit of a warrior, that one. should we try to upright them? >> yeah. >> when you go to the lions, you don't ever drive straight on them. you kind of go in at an angle to

relax them. that's funny how they pretend they don't see you. but they are so completely aware. so basically what we look at to identify them are their spots, like their fingerprint. punctured in the face, that means he's fighting with a female. it's too dangerous to go for the head area if they're fighting. the reason for the colors, do you see how lions behave to cope with threats in the area, to show that lions and masai can stay together. they will always live together. for the masai, one of the diminish things for them is

large ranges. the same resource that the lion needs. if push came to show and one would have to go, it wouldn't be the wildlife that's bringing in far too much for this area of the country. if they can show you they are actually fundamental to protect them in this area and to protect the lions, well, then it's the better for them as well. >> and what's total population of lions countrywide? >> tanzania probably has 50% population for the lion, so it's important. and best estimates are that there are 30,000 lions. it's not so worrisome the size but the rapid decrease. we have lost large predators in the world but the world carries on. there would probably be other predators to take their place, the hyenas, cheetahs and

leopards. lions are a big show of the ecosystem that is healthy. they are important to that. 20, 22 hours of the day they relax. so when you see sleeping cats -- >> man, they are beautiful.

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♪ just a few miles from the crater's rim, the village, about 400 masai live here. he's the chief, four wives, 12 children, a handful of woman are old enough to be out looking after the herds. i was born in new jersey and live in new york. >> oh. >> you have a son in new jersey, yeah? >> yes, yes. he's at one of the colleges known as montclair state. >> oh, sure, i know montclair well. near where i grew up. >> oh, yes. >> there's going to be some

downpours. well, do you think it comes here? >> no. >> no. >> not us. >> it's funny, like they always know since there are no weather reports out here. >> they have been migrating with the season since they came to this part of africa sometime in the 15th century, long, long before this became a national park. here we run into the kind of conflict that the world will see as they value the most. parts of nature pop lated with magnificent, wild but aggressively protected animals were the indigenous people. >> so when i came here to start up here, they were suspicious. they thought it was going to lead to us being kicked out. that's a constant fear in this area.

>> because in the past, they kill them. but today we stop that. or we can kill. >> if you have no other alternative. >> yeah. that's why we have a sphere. we are not hearmless people but it is only for protection only. >> the masai know we are here to work with them and we hope to start the lion guardian project, which basically you hire masais to protect the lions rather that kill them. >> when all of the cattle the masai people have, how do you protect them from the predators? >> if you do not bother them, they will not bother you. >> how about when they are grazing? >> when they are grazing, we have people who follow. >> and that's enough to discourage hyenas or lions? >> yes. but sometimes they are happy lion, so they are making it loud

to assure they are happy. and they make sounds to know they are happy. and if they catch something, we can hear very close, only like -- and stop. and if it's a loud -- >> that's a happy. >> that's happy. >> the purring noise, that's not good. >> that is not. >> that's not a hear kitty situation. >> that's him looking for food. >> okay. my cat ♪ >> okay, this, a lot of you are going to find very disturbing. >> i'm guessing the little goat over there is about to get the

bad news. >> come now. >> i try and be a good guest. i eat what my hosts put in front of me. i try to take responsibility if something dies for my dinner. >> here? >> no, no, here. >> so when the chief asks if i'd care to do the honors and tells me how it has to be done, i'm not happy. in fact, as i close off his air passages, i'm struggling to not throw up on myself. >> yeah. >> do you know how to skin?

>> maybe i can show you. >> go ahead. >> the masai traditionally kill their goats by suffocation, for very good reason, it turns out, to keep the blood, which is a vital component for the masai diet abundant in the chest cavity. >> let's prepare to take the skin out. oh, good. here now. then like this. >> more? everything's intact, beautiful. >> so all the blood -- >> it filled up the cavity and started to get coagulated. >> yes. >> i get it now. >> easier now to take the blood

out. see? >> i've never seen that. that's super cool. >> some would like to drink fresh. >> sure. >> it's good. ♪ >> people, they eat this one fresh. >> that's kidney. >> yeah. >> just a little piece. deed done, it's time for a little kidney. enjoy the spoils, then party. >> sweet, actually, i like them better like this than cooked. and the best move of all? having the right partner at my side. it's so much better that way.

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very good. >> that's great. >> not too much of a meat eater, but this i kind of like. ♪ >> even on the serengeti, it ain't barbecue if there ain't some kind of beer. >> normally the masai, they have what you call honey beer. you drink it just very strong. >> love to try some.

>> noticed a palpable change in the mood. [ laughter >> beer. >> welcome. >> asante. >> pretty tasty. >> almost refreshing. >> like a palm wine, kind of pulpy-like taste. >> you can definitely taste the honey. >> welcome to our culture. everyone has to carry a big knife. >> many aspects of their

lifestyle and traditions remain unchanged. >> awesome. this does not mean masai don't have cell phones, by the way. everybody does. >> we are talking about how can we balance this, because they're now looking to send our children to school, getting a good education, but we still stay a very strong culture. so it's really a hard time, but we continue. >> that's another question, when your son comes back from new jersey, you know, is your son going to want a motorcycle? is he going to want a car? a flat screen tv? >> i don't know. as you know, the children, they quickly change their mind. they may one day and say -- i

don't know. [ laughter ] >> it's beautiful, this country, this part of africa. geographically huge, but not really. as the world and what we need to live in it shrinks every day. who gets to live here? who or what do we want to see, is for better or worse going to determine that. nearly $1.5 billion is spent here every year by people who come wanting to look mostly at beautiful animals. that's an amount that's hard to argue with, and am possible to outrun.

psych dellics, alternate realities, mind expansion. if you think that sounds like the '60s, take a closer look. ♪ ♪ these american tourists are under the spell of a hal usin jennic plant mixture called io waska. it's made from a jungle vine, and it's proponents claim it's transforming their lives? >> what has it done for you? >> raised my level of