latest on this story. we're going to see you again at 11 p.m. eastern time. anthony bourdain, "parts unknown" starts now. see you at 11:00. i went looking for the dream of africa. i woke up in tanzania. [ children singing ]

♪ i took a walk in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪

the narrow streets and neatly dressed children of stone town make it feel like a very different africa than i've ever known. it's tight, small. the architecture speaks of many layers. of a hierarchy long gone but still evident. the famous zanzibari doors for instance, meticulously carved of teak. it reveals ethnicity and professions. brass spikes evoke similar doors in india, the lotus flower, the historically egyptian symbol is meant to reflect fertility.

and chains, a reminder that this was one the central hub of the slave trade. ♪ [ singing in foreign language ] >> what zanzibar is today is overwhelmingly muslim. 99% of the population. and you see the strong influence. the children coming from the madrasa, the streets maintained with great pride. the call to prayer, five times a day. zanzibar, part of tanzania, but also an autonomous state, sits

30 miles off the coast of the mainland. >> you feel like you're in a different country and different culture, different vibe. >> he is a native zanzibari and tour guide. so he knows his way around these parts. >> this is what we call mandazi. >> mandazi, a classic swahili treat, basically a donut. and a fried fritter, spiced with cumin, tumeric. >> if you live here, if you're from here you start with spiced coffee, maybe a pastry. and you talk about politics. oh, that is good. so you're born and bred here? how long has your family been here? >> i'm half indian, half african, and my mother's been here four generations.

>> so that's starting out in -- >> late 1700s. >> wow. who built this neighborhood? >> construction started in about 1813. we are portuguese, yeah? they stayed from 1846, and left in 1964. but they lost a lot of power in 1896. >> confused? let's take a step back. the persians were the first major power to set up here around 975 a.d., expanding their empire on the strategically positioned island. then the portuguese used this for their slave trade, then the ammanis did the same. 1964, revolution. as with most revolutions, the days following were violent, chaotic and ugly. after overthrowing the mostly arab government, reprisals. >> it wasn't intended for revolution where more than 3,000

arabs were slaughtered, and a lot of indians were slaughtered or moved out of the country. >> but your family stayed. >> my family stayed. >> why? >> there was no money in the family to move out. >> so there was no option? >> no option. >> tough times. >> very tough times. >> and about two hours from stone town, this is jambiani, a tiny fishing village. here the first revolutionaries would meet and plan for an independent suspen zanzibar. the ruler ruled until assassination in 1972. this is grandson of the country's first president. >> what was the situation back then, political situation back then? >> it wasn't good. basically it was english on top. arabs in the middle and africans way, way at the bottom.

it was a form of apartheid, you know? >> was this village sort of a center for revolutionary -- >> this village was important in terms of the political support prior to the revolution with my grandmother and grandfather stayed right here. and they had had meetings on the field right over there. that is where they would have the meetings. to raise support for their people, and identity. the objective is to give equal rights to all people. revolutions aren't the best things sometimes when it comes to peaceful transition. this is the house, my son, they are preparing a wonderful lunch for us. [ speaking in foreign language ] >> this is mwacca. she used to take care of my grandmother, many, many years ago. [ laughter ]

[ speaking in foreign language ] >> looking forward to lunch. >> mwacca was a close family friend to him and his grand parents, and she's putting together quite a spread. coconut rice, freshly caught fish, called tassi, topped with a fresh salad. another fish, mackerel, marinated in lime juice and garlic and pan-fried. >> now this is good. >> whoa. that's looking good. so coconut rice. >> yeah. >> chapati bread. >> this is casaba.

>> what a spread here. >> and you can use your hands. >> good. the fish i can do, the rice, i will need help. >> mm, good. what do you think of the casaba? lovely. the rice is great, too. whatever your feelings on revolutions, it is probably worth remembering that they start in places like this. people talking. and when they are won, they're often won by people who sat at the feet of the original planners, people who look like this. >> look at all these kids. >> watch out, future revolutionaries. >> new ideas coming in to change things come from them. think about the challenges we face as a small island country, doesn't the whole world face these challenges? we have to preserve these things and find balance. to me, i see africa as a whole, i see very interesting times.

>> hopeful? >> i'm very hopeful. >> i'm optimistic. i think our people are great people. and if given the opportunity, i think they can put a lot on the table, not only for themselves but also for the culture of east africa and possibly even the world. i think they're great people. why not? begins with the cloud. this is "titanfall," the first multi-player game built and run on microsoft azure. empowering gamers around the world to interact in ways they never thought possible. this cloud turns data into excitement. this is the microsoft cloud.

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[ thunder ] ♪ say you're going to zanzibar and people will tell you about the sweet food. it's pretty impressive.

in stone town's gardens, every night, vendors set up an insane variety of every variation of seafood snack. oh, boy, i love some of that. >> we got some shrimp. we have octopus. we have scallop, shellfish, a mussel, a small shell, mahi-mahi and snapper. >> let me try some of the octopus. >> some lobster? with marsala sauce. >> i like hot, okay, give me some chili mango with that. all right. good. mm. octopus, chewy, but tasty. lobster's working for me.

too spicy for you, man. nah, believe me. only one of us is going to be shitting tonight, and it's not going to be you. ooh. ♪ ♪ the famous zanzibar pizza, awesome. >> fresh cheese. with egg. >> sous awesome to me. lookin' good. thank you. mm. weird and wonderful and mm. damn. these stands are extremely popular with locals and visitors alike. so of course the government raised the rents.

one guy, juma, decided to pick up and move his place outside of town. his customers came with him. hey, juma, how are you? what are we having? >> beef on a stick, chicken on a stick. half chicken and spices and sauces. >> i'll order beef for now. >> beef, good, let's have chicken. >> chicken? >> yeah, sure. [ speaking in foreign language ] >> juma is famous for his chicken. it's slathered with ginger, coriander, lime, grilled and topped with chili sauce. >> they come here at 6:30 and finish about 10:00. >> how many guys work in here? >> there's about six, seven of them. >> six or seven of them? >> all around the table.

>> wow, this is a big operation. >> he's finishing the skewers. i guess he's half cooking or saucing. he's reheating, finishing the skewers. that guy just sets up plates for him to top with meat and they've got the bread and sauce to go also. what are they squirting on the fries? hot sauce, catsup. >> you never go hungry. >> there is always food in the street. >> if you come here to buy 10 skewers, you buy 20 or 30 because somebody is always asking for food. and you always buy it. it's just the culture. no one says no to each other for the food. it's the culture. and you use the stick as your fork. >> hot, hot, hot. where do you think the recipe came from? this is a real mixed-up history here. >> it's mostly arabic, indian components in here.

the spices, most of them came from india, mangoes came from india, brazil. >> southeast asia. >> in india. >> mm. damn, that's good. this chicken's really awesome. might need some more of this. ooh, good stuff. incredible. ♪ >> the 250-mile flight from zanzibar to arusha takes about an hour and a half, but culturally, you might as well be flying from texas to the philippines. [ bell ringing ] >> kilimanjaro.

where hemingway saw himself disappear as he slipped into death. from there we head into the serengeti. ♪ the journey this time, one must expect the occasional setback. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ we reach the eastern edge of the serengeti, where it's a steep climb to the magnificent

crater. once a massive volcano that somewhere around 2.5 million years ago collapsed in on itself, creating this caldera, a true, lost world. inside the crater, a true ecosystem within an ecosystem. wildlife pretty much stay put. coming to drink, well, right below my place. it's nice, very, very nice if you find yourself here. a hot bubble bath awaits after a long day in the bush. perhaps a dry sherry from a cut glass decanter. the next morning you rise to breakfast on the balcony, silver service, hot coffee, freshly baked croissant. >> thank you.

>> you're welcome, sir. >> the rules of the house are sensible enough and given the luxury surroundings and the view, hardly a burden. >> you're not supposed to wonder around at night by yourself, there's elephants and hyenas and stuff. there were no knocks on the door. you know, i know what you're thinking already. you're not going to do what i think you're going to do, already, you're not going to go out there and shoot some beautiful animal? no. what kind of sick -- wants to shoot an elephant? even the toilet has a nice view. this is pretty much what you see as you're sitting on the snakes. idyllic natural setting. and good plumbing?

it's pretty much paradise.

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♪

it's nuts driving into the serengeti. after a short while, you actually get used to the jungle book scene playing out in front of your car. it's interesting to see the giraffe and wildebeest and zebra they all seem to hang out with each other, no conflict at all. >> pretty much. there's no conflict in what they want to eat. elephants taking the big stuff out, zebras follow down, and then the wildebeest are the really close crop. >> my guard is collin mcconnell. he lives in tanzania and knows this area like i know the deli counter. >> so this is the edge of the woodland here.

about every tree you see here lying on its side has not fallen over by choice, it has been pushed over by elephants. there's an elephant over there. >> oh, yeah. whoa. >> a big bull. >> magnificent. will he charge us? >> nah. >> if we pissed him off? >> if we pissed him off, he would. they sleep so soundly, these zebra, you can creep right up. >> zebras and more zebras. so many, you almost get bored seeing them. and giraffes only look mildly irritated to be interrupted. and ever more massive herds.

every few hundred yards. all that's missing is a happy sack. >> everybody's come to terms that the wildebeest migration means wildebeest jumping into rivers. that only happens two months out of the whole year. the rest of the year they're trekking through the bush. to me, this is so much more spectacular. you see these big numbers. you'll be in an area this morning that was full of wildebeest and go there this afternoon and there's not one. they've moved. >> thousands and thousands of wildebeests on their annual migration are everywhere. a big circle stretched out across tanzania and into kenya in search of prime grazing. it's all about water, and grass, and a good place to make babies. >> look at this little guy. he's keeping up with his mum. >> yeah, he is doing okay.

>> within 15 minutes of being born they're up and standing, running as fast as their mums within a couple of hours. there's a wildebeest that didn't make it. >> how old is that? >> a day or two. >> wow. >> you don't want to get lost here. you definitely don't want to be on foot outside your car or injured for instance. nature, as they say, is a cruel mistress. it takes care of its own without mercy. the evidence of this cruel math called survival is everywhere. >> they're not going to help a brother out. >> no. you would think, huh? >> start limping, first come the hyenas. >> they see the vultures dropping. and that is a key to them there is some food out there. and the vultures need the hyena ripping the skin. >> by the time they finish eating your soft parts and

chewing your femur, theva vultures, lovingly called the undertaker birds are waiting for their turn. i don't know about you, but when i have cause to think about hyenas, i think, you know what? i could really go for some pesto right now. we pause for lunch. indigenous specialties like pasta, oh, look, brownies. >> those hippos are coming in close. >> they can smell the pasta. >> they love pesto. >> they're coming ashore. over thankfully cold beers, i learn who is really the most dangerous animal here. yeah. that's right, mr. loveable, funny hippo. always in a tutu in the cartoons, a vicious and unpredictable and apparently incredibly fast-moving killer.

>> you know, you have to leave here and go for a pee behind the tree and come face-to-face with this hippo. the hippo would easily outrun you, one big chomp. tusks would go straight through you. chop you in half. >> just get between them and their mudhole, and they'll be all over you like justin bieber's body guards. >> what do hippo penises look like? >> i have no idea. >> they don't emerge with a hippo hard-on? >> not that i've seen. >> really? >> they're under water. i don't go snorkeling. >> i find that comforting to know.

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they are among the last great warrior tribes on earth. semi-nomadic, they believe that all the world's cattle are a gift of the gods to them, the maasai people. they move with their animals across the tanzanian plains s seting up homes where they find the best grazing. ♪ their cattle are everything, the wealth of the family, units of currency, givers of milk to live and on special occasion, meat and blood. they construct their villages or

bomas like this as strategic hamlets designed to repel predators. >> you have a lot of livestock coming in here. and they have all taken off. this area is quite famous for the cats, the big cats. >> the big cats -- lions -- roam free here, an area of the serengeti. >> it is a paradox, i mean, the lions are a predator, a competitor, but they are also something they greatly admire. >> this field biologist is trying to find the identity of the people and the outside world's desire to kill these beautiful machines. this is what happens when a

warrior defending his cattle takes on a hungry lion. nobody wants this. for the maasai, being aware of the comings and goings of the lion population is a useful thing, preferable to find out in advance and take evasive action. lion population is important. remember and respect that the maasai have always defined themselves and their identities by their enemy, a tribe of proud warriors. what happens when there's no one and nothing to fight? ♪ she has brought several maasai onto her team to show them up close the lions they share this land with. >> it's often on my days when i'm working with the maasai, you don't eat, you have a cup of tea in the morning, and if you're lucky, you'll get this. either fresh milk or this. >> this is a lumpy yogurt-like

drink essential to the maasai diet. before you say yuck, it might be worth noting that between their 100% diet of meat, blood and dairy, they are known to have near super-human cardio. olympic-level stamina and condition. they can run miles at a time without water, and can basically kick your ass in any physical contest, given half the chance. so help yourself to some sour, lumpy goodness. >> little honey, some raisins in there. you'll be good to go. >> it's so different here. like the rainy season, dry season, such different challenges. what do you think of going on to here? >> i'm okay with it.

>> currently, ingala has been tracking two lions in particular. ramos and pujon. >> oh, ramos is there. see him? >> i see -- yes, there they are. i see them. wow, two of them. >> yeah. >> you like them, don't you? >> oh, they're magnificent. they're very admirable. he's a bit of a worrier, that one. should we try and approach them? >> yeah. >> when you go for lions, you don't never drive straight on them. you kind of go at an angle. that relaxes them. it's funny how they pretend they don't see you.

they're so completely aware. basically, what we look at to try to identify them are the spots, it's like their fingerprint. puncture wounds on his face, it means he is fighting with a female. if they fight with another competitor male, the wounds would go on the back. the reason for the collars, to see how they behave together. to cope with threats in the area. to show that the lions and the maasai can stay together, they have always lived together. for the maasai, one of the diminishing things for them is the rain, the same resource that the lions use. if push came to shove and one part had to go, it wouldn't be the wildlife.

that's bringing in far too much money for this country. so if they can show that they're actually fundamental to protecting this area and protecting the lions, well, then, it's the better for them as well. >> what's the total population of lions, do you think, countrywide? >> tanzania probably has 25 to 50% of the total population for lions. so it is an important country for it. the last estimate was 30,000 lions remaining. i think it's not so much the worry of the size, but the rapid decrease. we've lost large predators in the big part of the world. the world carries on. you would probably have other predators to take their place. you know, that'd be the hyenas, cheetahs, leopards. of course, they couldn't take the big prey like the lion does. if you think about it that way, lions are a big show of an

ecosystem that is healthy. they're important to that. 20, 22 hours of the day they relax. the female, you see sleeping cats lie. >> they are beautiful. [ male announcer ] it's less of a race... yeah! [ male announcer ] and more of a journey. keep going strong. and as you look for a medicare supplement insurance plan... expect the same kind of commitment you demand of yourself. aarp medicare supplement insurance plans insured by unitedhealthcare insurance company. go long. insured by unitedhealthcare insurance company.

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>> just a few miles from the crater's rim, the village. about 400 maasai live here. this is the chief. he has four wives, 12 children, a handful of whom are old enough to be out looking at the herds. i was born in new jersey and live in new york. you have a son in new jersey, yeah? >> yes. yes. study in one of the college known as mont claire state. >> oh, yes, i know montclair very well. near where i grew up. >> oh, yes. >> look at that cloud there. there's going to be some downpour. >> you think it comes here? >> not us. >> it's funny, they always know what the clouds are doing.

our weather report out here. >> the maasai have been migrating with the season since they came to this area. before the 15th century. long, long before the serengeti became a national park. here we run into the extensional conflict. populated with magnificent wild but aggressively protected animals or the indigenous people. >> the project is promoting co-existence with lions. so when i came here to start up lion guardians, they were suspicious. they thought this is going to lead to us being kicked out. that's a constant fear in this area. >> because in the past, they kill, but today we stop that. or we can kill if no way. >> if you have no alternative.

>> yeah. that's why we have the spear, we are not harmless people, but we carry the spear for protection. >> the maasai trust that we're here to work with them, not to kick them out. and we're going to start the lion guardian project. which basically you hire the maasai to protect the lions rather than kill them. >> with all the cattle, how do you protect them from predators? >> the animals are smart enough. if you do not bother them, they do not bother you. >> how about when they're grazing? >> when they're grazing we have people that follow. >> and that's enough to discourage hyenas or lions? >> yes, yes, but sometimes they're happy lions so they're showing themselves to be very happy. and the way that make that, is

woo! woo! woo! ooh! ooh! thus make happy, you know. if you just like to catch something you can come very close, only like rrrrrrrr, rrrrrr, now stop. but that's a loud woo! >> that's a happy? >> that's a happy. >> no problem. >> no problem. >> but that purring one, that second noise, that's not good? >> that sound is not. >> that's not a here kitty situation? >> no, that's looking for finding food. >> okay. my cat hates me. >> yeah. >> okay. this, a lot of you are going to find very disturbing. i'm guessing the little goat over there is about to get the bad news? >> come now. and touch this.

>> i try and be a good guest. i eat what my hosts put in front of me. i try to take responsibility if something dies for my dinner. >> stand here? >> no, no, no. here. >> this is the heart. >> so when the chief asked if i cared to do the honors and tells me how it has to be done, i'm not happy. in fact, as i close off its air passages, i'm struggling to not throw up on myself. ♪ ♪ >> tony, you know huh to skin? maybe i can show you.

then i can -- >> go ahead. >> the massai traditionally kill their goats by suffocation. for very good reason it turns out to keep the blood which is a vital component for the massai diet intact and abundant in the chest cavity. >> continue now to take the skin out. >> yep. >> oh. >> here now. this. uh-huh. good. and then continue like this. >> good, everything is intact. beautiful. >> there is some blood. so all the blood. >> it filled up the cavity. and started to get coagulated. >> yes, yes. >> i get it now. >> take the blood out. >> wow. >> yeah. >> that is really.

i have never seen that. that is super cool. >> yes. some one look to drink from it. >> sure. [ speaking foreign language ] >> it is good. >> hey, not bad. >> it is good. >> people they eat this one fresh. >> that's the kidney. >> yeah. >> would you like a piece. >> just a little piece. >> deep down it's time for a little kidney. enjoy the spoils. then party. >> mm. sweet. actually. that's good. i like it better. better than cooked. turn the trips you have to take, into one you'll never forget. earn triple points when you book with the expedia app. expedia plus rewards.

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>> it is smelling good. >> yeah. that's great. that's really good. not too much in the meat either. this is i kind of like it. >> even here it ain't a barbecue unless there is some kind of beer. >> usually the massai, we have what you have honey beer. you drink. so, come here. >> love to try some.

[ laughter ] >> a chain nge in the mood. >> ha-ha-ha. >> not bad. >> tasty. >> it's refreshing. >> look a palm wine. >> you can taste the honey. >> yeah. >> according to our culture. everyone has to carry a big knife. >> everybody is ready. >> yeah.

>> many aspects of their lifestyle and traditions remain unchanged. >> awesome. mm. perfect. >> this does not mean the massai don't have cell phones by the way, everybody does. >> as you say, we are talking about how can we balance this because we are now looking to send our children to school, getting a good education. but we are still saying a very strong culture. it's really, it continues. >> that as it nothis another qun your son comes back from new jersey is he going to want a motorcycle, a car, a flat screen tv. >> i've don't know. where the future comes. as you note children they are very quickly changing their mind.

maybe he one day, come in and say, he is just a boy. i don't know. >> it is beautiful this country. this part of africa. geographically huge, but not really. as the world and what we need to live in it slin sequester it sh. who gets to live here? who or what do we want to see? for better or worse, it will determine that. nearly 1.5 billion is spent here every year by people who come wanting to look mostly at beautiful animals. it is hard to argue with and impossible to outrun.

this is "cnn tonight." i'm don lemon. we are live tonight in ferguson, missouri. tensions rising here as we get closer to the grand jury decision on whether to indict officer darren wilson in michael brown's death. that decision expected some time in the next two weeks. st. louis county police have spent more than $120,000 stocking up on riot gear. in these cases in this street if they erupt. ferguson police chief thomas jackson says he won't step down despite months of criticism over the police department handling of the shooting and the protest. but w