"unguarded" with the end of the game is just the start of the story. good night. i went looking for the dream of africa. i woke up in tanzania. ♪ [ children singing ]

♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪

♪ the narrow streets and neatly dressed children of stone town make it feel like a very different africa than i've ever known. it's tight, small. the architecture speaks of many layers of a hierarchy long gone but still evident. the famous zanzibari doors, for instance, meticulously carved of mahogany and teak. the patterns reveal details of the original inhabitants' ethnicity and professions. brass spikes evoke similar doors in india, the lotus flower, the historically egyptian symbol is meant to promote fertility and

chains a reminder that this was once a central hub of the slave trade. ♪ ♪ what sanz si bar is today is definitely overwhelmingly muslim, 99% of the population, and you see the strong influence. the children coming from the madrassa, the streets are neat and private homes even of the very poor are maintained with great pride. the call to prayer. five times a day. zanzibar, part of

tanzania, sits 30 miles off the coast of the mainland. >> you feel like you're in a different country and different culture, different vibe. >> he is a native zanzibari and former tour guide, and he knows his way around these parts. >> so what are our options here. >> mandazi, a classic swahili treat. a fried fritter, spiced with cumin, tomb rick tumeric and coriander. >> let's do it. >> if you live here, if you're from here you start your day with some bitter spiced coffee, maybe a pastry. >> you like it? >> oh, that's good. so you're born and bred here. >> in zanzibar. >> so you're born and bred here? how long has your family been here? >> i'm half indian, half african, and my mother's been here four generations.

>> four generations so that's starting out in -- >> late 1700s. >> wow. who built stonetown? who built this neighborhood? >> construction started in about 1813. the portuguese colony. we had portuguese, right. they stayed from 1846. they left in 1964. but they lost a lot of power in 1986. >> confused? let's take a step back. the persians were the first major power to set up here around 975 a.d., expanding their empire onto the strategically positioned island. then the portuguese used zanzibar as a hub for their slave trade and spices. then the ammanis did the same. ultimately with the british who ruled through them. 1964, revolution. as with most revolutions, the days following were violent, chaotic and ugly. after overthrowing the mostly arab government, reprisals.

>> it wasn't intended for revolution where more than 3,000 arabs were slaughtered, and a lot of indians were slaughtered or moved out of this country. >> but your family stayed. >> yes. >> why? >> there was no money for them in the family to move out. >> it wasn't an option. >> no option. >> stick with what was left. >> yes. >> tough times. >> very tough times. >> and about two hours from stone town, this is jambiani, a tiny fishing village. here the first revolutionaries would meet and plan for zanzibar. zanzibar's first president served until his assassination in 1972. this too is the grandson of the country's first president. >> what was the situation back

then, political situation back then? >> it wasn't good. basically it was english on top. arabs in the middle and africans way, way at the bottom. it was a form of apartheid, you know? >> was this village sort of a center for revolutionary -- >> this village was important in terms of the political support prior to the revolution with my grandfather and my grandmother standing right here an they had meetings on the field, right over there. that's where they would have their meetings, to raise support for the african and chorazi people, their identity. objective was to give equal rights to all people of zanzibar. of course, revolutions aren't the best things sometimes when it comes to peaceful transition. well, this is the house where they are preparing a wonderful lunch for us. [ speaking a foreign language ] >> this is mwacca. she used to take care of my

grandmother many, many years ago. [ laughter ] [ speaking in foreign language ] >> looking forward to lunch. >> mwacca was a close family friend to habeed and his grandparents, and she's putting together quite a spread. coconut rice, freshly caught fish called tassi, topped with a fresh salad of chopped tomato, cucumber and eggplant. another fish, mackerel, marinated in lime juice and garlic then pan fried. >> now this is good. >> whoa. that's looking good. so coconut rice. >> yeah. >> chapati bread. >> yep. >> this is from the other side of the water there. >> that's it. this is casaba. >> casaba.

three different types of bread. >> what a spread here. >> and you can use your hands. >> good. the fish i can do by hand, the rice, i will need help. mm-mm, good. what do you think of the casaba? lovely. the rice is great, too. whatever your feelings on revolutions, it is probably worth remembering that they start in places like this. people talking. and when they are won, they're often won by people who sat at the feet of the original planters, people who look like this. >> look at all these kids. watch out, future revolutionaries. >> exactly. new ideas coming in to change things come from them. think about it. the challenges we face as a small island country, doesn't the whole world face these challenges? >> yeah. >> how to preserve all these things, how to find balance. to me, i see africa as a whole,

i see very interesting times. >> hopeful? >> i'm very hopeful actually. >> optimistic? >> i'm optimistic. i think the zanzibar people are great people. and if given the opportunity, i think they can put a lot on the table, not only for themselves but also for the culture of east africa and possibly even the world. i think they're great people. why not? turn the trips you have to take, into one you'll never forget. earn triple points when you book with the expedia app. expedia plus rewards. are the largest targets in the world, for every hacker, crook and nuisance in the world. but systems policed by hp's cyber security team

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and people will tell you about the sweet food. it's pretty impressive. in stone town's fordoni gardens, every night, vendors set up an insane variety of every variation of seafood snack. oh, boy, i'd love some of that. >> we go some shrimp. we have octopus, calamari. we have scallop, shellfish, a mussel, a small shell, we have a tuna fish, mahi-mahi and snapper. >> good. i think let me try some of the octopus. >> with marsala spice. but it is not hot. >> i like hot. all right. give me some chili mango with that. all right. good. mm-mm. octopus, chewy, but tasty.

lobster's working for me. too spicy for you, man. nah, believe me. only one of us is going to be shitting like a mink tonight, and it's not going to be you. ooh. the famous zanzibar pizza, awesome. >> fresh cheese. mayonnaise with egg. >> sounds awesome to me. lookin' good. thank you. mm-mm. weird and wonderful and mm. damn. these stands are extremely popular with locals and visitors

alike. so, of course, the government raised the rents. one guy, juma, decided to pick up and move his place outside of town. his customers came with him. hey, juma, how are you? so, what are we haveing? >> beef on a stick, chicken on a stick. half chicken and all the spices and i'll order beef for now. >> beef, good, let's have chicken. >> chicken? >> yeah, sure. [ speaking a foreign language ] >> juma is famous for his chicken. the bird is slathers with a mixture of garlic, lime, coriander, salt and pepper and topped with tamarin chili sauce. >> they come here at 6:30 and finish about 10:00. >> how many guys work in here? >> there's about six, seven of

them. >> six or seven of them? >> all around the table. >> wow, this is a big operation. >> okay. he's finishing the skewers. i guess he's half cooking or saucing. he's reheating, finishing the skewers. that guy just does the set upof plates for him to top with meat and they've got the bread and sauce to go also. what are they squirting on the fries? >> hot sauce, ketchup and tamarin. >> you never go hungry. >> if you come here to buy 10 skewers, you buy 20 or 30 because somebody is always asking for food. >> right. >> and you always buy it. it's just the culture. no one says no to each other for the food. >> there we go. >> and you use the stick as your fork. ♪ >> hot, hot, hot. where do you think the recipe came from? this is a real mixed-up history here. >> it's mostly arabic, indian components.

the spices, most of the trees like mangos came from india. pineamounts came from brazil. >> tamarin. southeast asia. not even india. mm-mm. damn, that's good. hey. this chicken's really awesome. might need some more of this. i like the heat. whoo. good stuff. incredible. ♪ >> the 250-mile flight from zanzibar across the water to the town of arusha takes about an hour and a half, but culturally you might as well be flying from texas to the philippines. [ bell ringing ]

>> kilimanjaro. into whose white peak hemingway's gang againous hero saw himself disappear as he slipped into death. from there we head into the serengeti. ♪ >> a journey of this kind, one must expect the occasional setback. we reach the eastern edge of the serengeti where it's a steep

climb to the rim of the magnificent angora-gora crater. once a massive volcano that somewhere around 2.5 million years ago collapsed in on itself, creating this caldera, a true, lost world. inside the crater, and an entire ecosystem within an ecosystem. wildlife pretty much stay put. coming to drink, well, right below any place. it's nice. very, very nice, if you find yourself here. a hot bubble bath awaits after a long day in the bush. perhaps a dry sherry from a cut glass decanter. the next morning ones rises to one's breakfast on the balcony, freshly baked croissant.

>> good morning. thank you, sir. >> you're welcome, sir. >> the rules of the house are slightly restrictable but sensible enough and given the luxurious surroundings and the view, hardly a burden. you're not supposed to wander around at night by yourself, there's elephants and hyenas and stuff. and while i'm told the baboons can get rapy, there were no knocks on the door. you know, i know what you're thinking already. you're not going to do what i think you're going to do, are you? you're not going to go shoot some beautiful animal in the brain, no. answer, no? what kind of sick -- wants to shoot an elephant? even the toilet has a nice view. this is pretty much what you see as you're sitting on the snakes. idyllic natural setting.

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♪ it's nuts driving into the serengeti. after a short while, you actually get used to the "jungle book" scene playing out in front of your car. it's interesting to see the giraffe and wildebeest and zebra and they all seem to hang out with each other, no conflict at ah >> pretty much there's no conflict in what they want to eat. it starts with elephants taking the big stuff out, zebras follow out and then the wildebeest are the really close crop. >> my guard is collin mcconnell. he lives in tanzania and knows this area like i know the deli counter at barney's.

>> so this is the edge of the woodland here. every tree you see lying on its side hasn't fallen over out of choice, it's been pushed over by elephants. there's an elephant over there. >> oh, yeah. whoa. >> a big bull. >> magnificent. will he charge us? >> nah. >> if we piss him off? >> if we pissed him off, he would. they sleep so soundly, these zebra, you can creep right up. >> zebras and more zebras. so many, you almost get bored seeing them. giraffes looking only slightly

irritated to be interrupted. all that's missing is a happy sack. >> everybody's come to terms that the wildebeest migration means wildebeest jumping into rivers. that only happens two months out of the whole year. the rest of the year they're trekking through the bush. to me, this is so much more spectacular. when you see these big numbers. you'll be in an area this morning that was full of wildebeest and go there this afternoon and there's not one. they've moved. >> thousands and thousands of wildebeests on their annual migration are everywhere. a big circle stretched out across tanzania and into kenya in search of prime grazing. it's all about water, and grass, and a good place to make babies. >> i mean, look at this little guy. he's keeping up with his mum.

>> he's doing okay. >> within 15 minutes of being born, they're up and standing, >> really. >> running as fast as their mums within a couple of hours. there's a wildebeest that didn't make it. >> how old is that? >> a day or two. >> oh, really? >> yeah. >> wow. >> you don't want to get lost here. you definitely don't want to be on foot outside your car or injured, for instance. nature, as they say, is a cruel mistress. it takes care of its own without mercy. the evidence of this cruel math called survival is everywhere. not an immediate family, you're not going to help a brother out. >> no, you would think, right? >> start limping, first come the hyenas. >> the hyenas see the vultures dropping and that's a key to them that there's some food up and the vultures really need the hyena to rip open the skin and start eating it. >> after they rip out your soft

parts, the vultures and marry but storks lovingly called the undertaker birds are waiting for their turn. i don't know about you, but when i have cause to think about hyenas ripping out the guts, i think, you know what, i could really go for some pesto right now. by lake mosak, we pause for lunch. indigenous specialties like penne with pasta, steamed baby corn, grilled so mate tos with parmesan and brownies. >> those hippos are coming in close. >> yeah. they can smell the pasta. >> they love pesto. they're coming ashore. >> you're safe. >> over thankfully cold beers, i learn who is really the most dangerous animal around here. yeah. that's right, mr. loveable, funny hippo. always in a tutu in the cartoons, a vicious, unpredictable and apparently

incredibly fast-moving killer. >> you know, you have to leave here and go for a pee behind the tree and come face-to-face with this hippo. the hippo would easily outrun you, one big chomp. big tusings would go straight through you, chop you in half. >> just get between them and their mudhole, and they'll be all over you like justin bieber's bodyguards. it can get ugly. what do hippo penises look like? >> i have no idea. >> they don't emerge with a hippo hard-on? >> not that i've seen. >> really? >> no. they're under water. i don't go snorkeling. >> i find that comforting to know.

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♪ they are among the last great warrior tribes on earth. semi-nomadic, they believe that all the world's cattle are a gift of the gods to them, the maasai people. they move with their animals across the tanzanian plains setting up homes where they find the best grazing. ♪ their cattle are everything, the wealth of the family, units of currency, givers of milk to live

and on special occasions of meat and blood. the maasai construct their villages or bomas like this as strategic hamlets designed to repel predators. >> do have you a lot of livestock coming in here? a lot of other have taken off. this area's quite famous for the cats, the big cats. >> the big cats -- lions -- roam free here, an area of the serengeti. >> it's a paradox. the lions are an enemy and a competitor but they're also something they greatly admire. >> swedish native angela janssen, a field biologist is trying to find the identity of the maasai people and the outside's view of these killing machines. this is what happens when a warrior defending his cattle takes on a hungry lion.

nobody wants this. for the maasai, being apprised of the comings and goings of the lion population is important. take evasive action than the alternative. remember and respect that the maasai have always defined themselves and their identities by their enemy, a tribe of proud warriors. what happens when there's no one and nothing to fight? ♪ ingela has brought several maasai onto her team to show them up close the lions they share this land with. >> it's often on my days when i'm working with the maasai, you don't eat, you have a cup of tea in the morning, and then if you're lucky in the rainy season

you'll get fresh milk or this. >> this is a lumpy yogurt-like drink essential to the maasai diet. >> cheers. >> cheers. >> and before you say yuck, it might be worth noting that between their nearly 100% protein of beef, blood and dairy, the maasai are known to have olympic level cardio. they can run miles at a time without rest or water and can basically kick your ass at near any physical contest given half the chance. so help yourself to some sour, lumpy goodness. not bad. a little honey, some raisins in there. you'll be good to go. >> uh-huh. >> it's so different here. like the rainy season, dry season, such different challenges. what do you think of going on to here? >> i'm okay with it.

tracking two lions in particular, ramos and pujon. >> oh, ramos is there. savvy. you see him? >> i see -- yes, there they are. i see them. wow, two of them. >> yeah. >> you like them, don't you? >> oh, they're magnificent. they're very admirable. he's a bit of a worrier, that one. should we try and approach them? >> yeah. >> when you go for lions, you don't never drive straight on them. >> right. >> you kind of go at an angle. that relaxes them.

it's funny how they pretend they don't see you. they're so completely aware. so, basically, what we look at to try to identify them are the spots, it's like their fingerprint. puncture wound on his face. that means he's fighting with a female like if they fight with another competitor, male, the wounds will be on the back. it's too dangerous to go for the head area if they're fighting. the reason for the collars, to see how lions behave to cope with threats in the area to show that lions and the maasai can actually stay together. live together. one of the diminishing things for them is the rain, the same

resource that the lions need. if push came to shove and one part had to go, it wouldn't be the wildlife. that's bringing in far too much money for this country. so if they can show that they're actually fundamental to protecting this area and protecting the lions, well, then, it's the better for them as well. >> what's the total population of lions, do you think, countrywide? >> tanzania probably has 25% to 50% of the population of lions. it's an important country of it. the last estimate was 30,000 lions remaining. i think it's not so much the worry of the size, but it's the rapid decrease. we've lost large predators in the big part of the world. the world carries on. you would probably have other predators to take their place. you know, that'd be the hyenas, that'd be the cheetahs, that would be the leopards. of course, they couldn't take the big prey. if you think about it that way, lions are a big show of an

ecosystem that is healthy. they're important to that. 20, 22 hours of the day they relax. the female, you see sleeping cats lie. >> they are beautiful. keeping a billion customers a year flying, means keeping seven billion transactions flowing. and when weather hits, it's data mayhem. but airlines running hp end-to-end solutions are always calm during a storm. so if your business deals with the unexpected, hp big data and cloud solutions make sure you always know what's coming - and are ready for it. make it matter.

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just a few miles from the crater's village, about 400 maasai live here. oladorup is the chief. he has 4 wives, 12 children, a handful of whom are old enough to be out looking after the herds. i was born in new jersey and >> oh. >> you have a son in new jersey, yes? yeah? >> yes. yes. starting in one of the colleges known as montclair state. >> oh, yes, i know montclair very well. near where i grew up. >> oh, yes.

>> look at that cloud there. there's going to be some downpour. >> you think it comes here? >> not us. >> it's funny, they always know what the clouds are doing. the weather reports out here. >> the maasai have been migrating with the season since they came to this part of africa time in the 15th century. long, long before the serengeti became a national park. and here we run into the kind of existential conflict we'll be seeing more and more of as the world decides what they value most. unspoiled expanses of nature populated till with nag enough sent wild but aggressively protected animals or the indigenous people. >> the aim for our project is promoting co-existence with lions. so when i came here to start up lion guardians, there were many among the maasai that were suspicious. they thought this was going to lead to us being kicked out. that's a constant fear in this

area. >> because in the past, they kill, but today we stop that. or we can kill if no way. >> if you have no alternative. >> yeah. that's why we have the spear, we carry the spear for protection only. >> the maasai, they trust that we're here to work with them, and we're foreseeing we're going to be able to start the lion guardian project. we hire maasai to protect the lionss rather than kill them. >> with all of the cattle the maasai people have, how do you protect them from predators? >> the animals are very smart enough. if you do not bother them, they do not bother you. >> so, how about when they're grazing? >> uh-huh. when they're grazing we have people that follow. >> and that's enough to discourage hyenas or lions? >> uh-huh, uh-huh. yes. but sometimes there are happy lions, so they make themselves show that they are very happy, and the way to make is to say

woo! woo! woo! ooh! ooh! thus make happy, you know. if you just like to catch something, you can hear very close only like rrrrrrrr, rrrrrr, and they'll stop. but that's a loud woo! >> that's a happy? >> that's a happy. >> but that purring one, that second noise, that's not good? >> that one is not good. >> that's not a here kitty situation? >> oh this, one, must looking for finding food. maybe. >> okay. my cat hates me. >> yeah. >> okay. this, a lot of you are going to find very disturbing. i'm guessing the little goat over there is about to get the bad news?

>> come now. and touch this. >> i try and be a good guest. i eat what my hosts put in front of me. i try to take responsibility if something dies for my dinner. >> stand here? >> no, no, no. here. >> this is the heart. >> so when the chief asked if i cared to do the honors and tells me how it has to be done, i'm not happy. in fact, as i close off its air passages, i'm struggling to not throw up on myself. >> yeah. >> do you know how to skin? >> not well enough. >> maybe i can show you and then i can -- >> go ahead.

>> okay. >> the maasai traditionally kill their goats by suffocation, for very good reason, it turns out -- to keep the blood, which is a vital component for the maasai diet intact and abundant in the chest cavity. >> we continue now to take the skin out. >> cut right through? >> yeah. >> oh, good. here now. you touch like this? >> uh-huh. >> good. and then continue like this. a little more. good. >> good, everything's intact, beautiful. >> this the blood, so all the blood. >> it filled up the cavity and started to get coagulated. >> yes, yes. >> i get it now. >> it is enough to take the blood out. >> right. >> see? >> wow. that's really --

i've never seen that. that's super cool. >> some like to drink fresh. >> sure? >> and. >> not bad. >> it's good. >> people, they eat this one fresh. >> that's kidney. >> you like a piece? >> a little piece. >> deed down, it's time for a little kidney. enjoy the spoils. then party. >> sweet, actually, it's good. i like them better like this than cooked.

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>> well, it's smelling good. >> yeah. it's smelling good. i'm not too much of a meat eater but this is my kind of light food. ♪ >> even on the serengeti, it ain't a barbecue if there ain't some kind of beer. >> normally we have -- the maasai, we have what we call honey beer. we drink it just very strong. [ laughter ] >> i'd love to try some. >> i've noticed a change in the

mood. [ laughter ] [ speaking a foreign language ] >> welcome. [ speaking a foreign language ] >> not bad. >> pretty tasty. it's refreshing, as well. >> it's like a palm wine or a poce type taste also. >> you can definitely taste the honey. >> yeah. >> the sweet. >> according to our culture, everyone has a big knife. >> everybody is ready. >> many aspects of their lifestyle and traditions remain unchanged.

>> mm-mm. awesome. perfect. this does not mean the maasai don't have cell phones, by the way. everybody does. >> as they say, we are talking about how can we balance this because we are now looking to send our children to school, getting a good education. but we are still staying a very strong culture. it's really coming but we continue. >> that's another question. you know when, your son comes back from new jersey, you know, is your son going to want a motorcycle? is he going to want a car? is he going to want a flat screen tv? >> i don't know for the future. as you know, the children are very quick at changing their mind. one day coming as a new jersey boy, i don't know.

>> it's beautiful this country, this part of africa. geographically huge, but not really, as the world and what we need to live in it shrinks every day. who gets to live here? who or what do we want to see is for better or worse going to determine that. nearly $1.5 billion is spent here every year by people coming to want to look mostly at beautiful animals. that is an amount that's hard to argue with and impossible to outrun.

welcome to my place of dreams. my spirit house. the city of ghosts. ♪