this is the story of one man, one chef and a city. also it's about france and a lot of other chefs and a culinary tradition that grew up to change the world of gastronomy. it's about a family tree, about the trunk from which many branches grew. and it's about food, lots of food, great food. some of the greatest food on earth. ♪ i took a walk

♪ in this beautiful world ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la, la, la, la, la ♪ sha la, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪ what is it exactly about this place? over the past century, the system here, the tradition, whatever it is that took hold here churned out a tremendous number of the world's most important chefs, chappelle,

bokuz, and as importantly, influenced nearly all the rest of them. why is this such a gastronomic capital? why here? why all of these great chefs? >> because lyon, it's really positioned between the north and the south. >> right. >> you are locked in between burgundy and rome. >> lee i don't know, the second chargest city in france, situated in the southeast of the country midway between the alps in the east and the mediterranean to the south. >> this was also a bottleneck when cars became the mode of transportation. >> it goes right to the heart of the idea, driving a destination on the way. >> completely. >> out of that system cams chefs like this guy, daniel boulud. like prince or madonna, he needs really only one name. in new york or anywhere in the chef world. daniel. the name of his restaurant in

manhattan. one of many in an empire that stretches from london to singapore. he came from here, a farm outside the city of lyon. through the city's great kitchens to new york, then his flagship. when did you start working with food? >> 10 years old, 1969. >> uh-huh. >> i started as an apresent nice lyon. >> he started as to many french cooks of his time did, at the very bottom. as a 14-year-old apprentice in the restaurant. what was your first job in the kitchen? >> they used to call me the beaver because i was just washing everything. you know, they make you clean the vegetables, they make you carry all the boxes from the market. >> 14. you can't do that anymore, can you? >> i don't think you can make them work 12 hours a day. >> right. >> and pay him maybe a buck a month. >> oh, the good ol' days. why lyon?

why here? look at the fundamentals, the things the lyonnais think of as birth rights, the right, for instance, to eat delicious cured pork and unimaginably delicious forms. >> the art lyonnais can't live without it. >> look at this. >> pate, sausages. it's an art that's revered here and widely enjoyed. [ speaking french ] and few names garner more respect from aficionados of pig. [ speaking french ] >> 20 ton of sausages just inside this room. they are coming and they are going mad with the production. >> right. in a relentlessly cold room, pork shoulder, belly and fat back, they are fed in batches through a vertical chopper. a sprinkling of seasoning and spices. removed in large balls of finely

but not too finely chopped meat. you do not want to get your hand caught in one of these things. then mixed to a smooth perfection with a dough hook. a lot of work. spread out and layered for consistent seasoning, formed into shapes and smacked to remove air bubbles. >> make sure the meat gets really tight. >> into the sausage machine and piped into organic casings. trust me, it ain't easy. ♪ >> very light touch. >> let's see now, wise guy. come on. let's see this. that's how you get pregnant.

>> just release at the end. >> it's a serious workplace, but with production nearly done, this being france and all, it's time for a snack and some wine. i'm doing what i'm good at, eating. >> this is. >> this is so good. [ speaking french ] >> another of lyon's most famous sausages is made primarily from pig's head with pork belly, pork shoulder, brandy, nutmeg and allspice mixed in for flavor. is this always cooked sort of hot? >> yeah. >> man, that's good. [ speaking french ] >> he knows he does really good work. he knows how good his stuff is. cheers. nice. it's a beautiful day in lyon.

>> yeah. ♪ in lyon, a city that believes absolutely in the power of food, one name is everywhere. a name that brought honor, attention and millions of visitors to the city. though there had been many chef heroes in the annals of gastronomy, in lyon and even across france, one name stands above all others. murals, bridges, markets, the name of monsieur paul is everywhere. but one of his most enduring institutions is this. bocuse. one of the nation's great culinary schools. now, just to give you an idea of the standards here, the kind of traditional dishes, baseline

old-school fundamentals you're expected to master before you move on to becoming a creative genius all your own, meet these guys. matthew, joseph and the institute's top dog, alain. chefs, otherwise known as m.u.f.s. >> your flight home, private. master chefs. >> every four years, they have this m.o.f. competition. >> m.o.f. is? >> mayor of france. >> the master craftsman of france. >> there's about 30 disciplines of craftmen where you can acquire the m.o.f. >> see that red, white and blue around their necks? that means they made it through the brutal competition that pits hundreds of top chefs against each other where only a handful survive. >> so basically four or five every four years.

>> certified by the highest in the land as being at the very top of the top of their professions. m.o.f. challenges often include ultra old-school classics not unlike the one we're making today. thick slices of black truffle are slipped under the skin of a chicken. the rolls royce of chickens. it's then tied, slipped inside a pig's bladder, and steamed until tender. >> the idea is to get the flavor of the truffle inside the bladder. the dish they choose, it's always in reference to a chef of the past. and this was a dish he was doing. >> the sometimes brutal world of the kitchen looks much of the time like a boy's club. but where did they come from? if we track back a bit to where it all began for lyon and for

many of the chefs whose names we now know and look up to, it all goes back to here. brazier, the godmother, the original master, teacher, chef vchef, force. an achievement, no one, male or female, had ever attained. and for many years, lyon's most famous chef. her influence runs right through every kitchen that's come since. and her graduates carry on her recipes and her traditions. this was one of hers. a signature. >> for the next hour, you keep putting hot bullion like this. the most miserable thing is when the bladder explodes. >> that's never a good thing when a bladder explodes. >> as the chicken cooks, the bladder starts to really expand. you have to talk to your bladder. >> i do all the time, believe me. please hold up. please hold up. we're not here. people are looking.

wait till you get in between cars. a rather luxurious sauce of more, much more, black truffle in generous amounts of foie gras and triple cream. perfect. nice milk shake. slightly pink around the legs but cooked through, the flesh perfumed by the generous slices of truffle. who gets to eat like this? we do. this is divine. >> you see the perfect balance in the sauce. if i was a chicken, that's the way i would like to end up. >> even if i weren't a chicken, i would want to go like this. surrounded by truffles and foie gras and fine wine. merci.

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the roaring of a powerful engine. the screech of rubber and off we go. kings of the road. two horsepower classics. no power steering, huh? >> i'm kidding. >> it's like a toy car. we're going back in time a bit to the area where daniel grew up, where life was very different from new york. were you the misfit of the family? rebellious or -- >> i was -- i was quite rebellious. my parents were talking to me about the idea of taking over the farm as the oldest son that would have been the logical thing. >> right. the farmer's life was not for you. >> no. >> he grew up in a true farm family. you milked the cows, tended the

animals. daniel claims he never even saw processed food until he was a teenager. uh-oh. ♪ we were by the side of the road, and some passersby less appreciative of fine automobiles than we are. the short consultation with an automotive professional, and we're back on the road. back in this case to school. this was daniel's old elementary school in the nearby town of st. pierre. i'm automatically taken back to memories of my own school days.

the smell of caustic pine cleaner, chalkboards and fear. the cruel eyes of lunch ladies in steam tables. chipped beef, tuna noodle surprise, and powdered mashed potatoes that haunt my memories still. ♪ >> pumpkin soup today. with onion, nutmeg and chicken stock. basic good pumpkin soup. >> this is marie. head chef, cook, host and server for 320 hungry and very discriminating french schoolchildren ages 3 to 12. on the menu prefixe today, a pumpkin soup, white wine, vanilla and shallot and a homemade couscous. this is a very sophisticated meal for children.

i was a little -- in school. like a lot of other students, i want pizza, pizza. are the children here open to variety? [ speaking french ] >> we want to make sure they always get a little challenge by how the food looks, the smell and also the taste. i think she has a very straight budget. >> in the usa, greatest country in the world, no doubt, we spend an average of $2.75 per student for public school lunch. compare and contrast. [ speaking french ] >> $1.50. >> did you eat this well when you were here? >> absolutely. >> tony. bonjour. the kids attack their food, wiping out three servings in the time it takes me to eat one. i guess they like it. it's good. yeah, this is good. >> i'll tell you, i don't think my chef in new york would do better.

it goes good with wine. >> you're going to jail for that. look how fast this kid eats. turn your head, he'll eat your soup right out of your plate. my school lunchroom, you pushed up your tray just like in prison, move it along. >> they come to you and serve you. the most important thing that we see here is the love to the food she makes and to the kids she serves. it has a lot to do with the reaction they have to food. >> dessert is homemade fromage with chocolate and orange segments. >> what do you want to be when you grow up? fireman. et tois? machine gun. >> he wants to make machine guns? >> machine gun, yeah. >> okay. keep an eye on that one, all right? for a dope fiend, feeding the

monkey finds this. for one poor guy, french food, in particular, lyonnais food. the cautionary tale of bill buford. writer, editor, literary lion with a perfectly good job as fiction editor at the prestigious "new yorker" magazine. at the undignified age of 53, he pretty much pulled up stakes, put his whole past life on hold and defected to france. to learn how to cook. what happened to you, anyway, buford? you used to have a good job. you hang out a couple of nights with batali, and the next thing you know, you're living in france and cooking. >> it's true. i discovered a whole world that the rest of the world didn't nehm to know about, just a very compressed, intense, lifelong learned expertise knowledge of food. it's not the food network and it's not gauzy magazines, andist not something you get from reading a res ciperecipe.

i was afraid of france. i knew if i took on the subject of french food, i'd have to go really deep. so we went and we thought we'd stay for six months, and we stayed for five years. >> we meet. it's a uniquely lyonnais institution, a pub/bistro with a limited usually old-school menu and always, always an unpretentious vibe. people come here to unwind, to relax, and to eat with abandon. so you say outright recently in one of your published works that l lyon is better than paris. >> everyone here knows that they have a really good life, and they don't give a flying fig of anybody else who knows about it because they don't actually want visitors. >> if you were to pick one iconic dish to represent the

bouchon lyon nais, it would be pike folded into a light dough until fluffy and airy but still rich, adrift in a rich, creamy almost bisquelike sauce made with krafish, creme fraiche, white wine and a splash of brandy. pretty amazing for one of the world's less wonderful fish. >> it's kind of a nice mix of france and italy. cheers. gentlemen. what a treat to get together and eat a meal. (woman) the constipation and belly pain

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if you're really going to understand a place, love it the way it deserves to be loved, maybe you have to live there. bill buford did just that and made lyon his home. today he's taking me somewhere only someone from the home team could be expected to know about. >> it's a beautiful day. the sky is blue. we're feeling the seasons changing. and we're about to go into a dark room. and you eat a very lyonnais menu, and you drink a vast quantity of lyonnais wine. >> what kind of sinister bodies would be in there? >> it's a very male tradition.

you work hard, you drink harder. ♪ >> don't be afraid. >> don't be afraid. the mysterious fabulous goofy, wonderful brofests. these are basically eating and drinking societies that go back over a century. when the silk workers of lyon would finish their night shifts early in the morning. hungry and looking to get, shall we say, completely hammered, they'd take over a bouchon, stuff their faces like heroes, blow off the proverbial steam in decidedly french fashion, which is to say no freakin' nachos for mozzarella sticks for these guys. hell, no. how often do you do this? >> it's a very lyonnais society. special memberships. there must be, like, 50 of these things that i know about.

remember if you're invited to be a member and remain a member for the rest of your life. the food is deliciously dinosauric and heavy yet classics, the slow, slowly stewed neck and shoulder pieces of veal with mushrooms served over rice. hunks of bread and wine, local, of course, and lots of it. the king. >> and it works. for 50 years. >> do women have them, their own organizations? >> yes. >> there are? so it's somewhere on the other side of town, there are a lot of women sitting around drinking wine, eating, bitching. then us singing and no doubt telling lusty jokes followed by serious official business. ♪

♪ ♪ >> alongside and some say above the names of the other culinary giants in and around lyon is the name, started by the visionary brothers jeanne and pierre, they received three stars in 1968 and

sparked a dynasty of culinary excellence that continues today with pierre's son, michel, and his son, cesar. >> my dream was always to put it on my resume. it's my first day. bonjour. >> bonjour. tres bien. many have called it the best restaurant in the world. and in the '60s the brothers pierre and jean were early, important and fundamental innovators of what came to be known as nouvel cuisine. behold one of their breakout classics, one of the truly game-changing, timeless, most influential dishes in history. it seems now maybe a simple thing. but it absolutely turned the world upside down when it debuted on the menu in 1962. when you have a dish this legendary, this iconic, there's

no escaping. the rolling stones will always have to play "jumping jack flash." if you google it, you'll see this name. >> forget everything. >> before this, fish was generally overcooked. it was served alongside elaborate garnishes, starches, vegetables. this simple, elegant, almost japanese ode to flavor changed the way we cook fish in restaurants today. and how we make sauces, what our plates look like. i remember seeing a picture of this as a young man. i'm getting goose bumps seeing this, really. perfect. >> beautiful. >> it's all about the moment you put the fish on the pan. the moment you put the sorrel in the sauce, it's very important. >> wow.

>> from now, you have one minute. >> right. >> one minute is the time you have it perfect. >> because it's cooking all the way. perfect. it's a perfect dish. it's really one of the great ideas of the 20th century. >> it's sexual. sensual. thanks for the ride around norfolk! and i just wanted to say, geico is proud to have >> thanks for the ride around norfolk, and i just wanted to say roger that. captain's waiting to give you a tour of the wisconsin now. could've parked a little bit closer...

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when in lyon, one can't help but see a line from there, from the rustic dishes of the farm and the bouchon, to here, the classics of the great tables of europe. all roads lead here. a major trunk of the tree that goes back to karem and beyond. monsieur paul bocuse. the brigade. the way it is done and has always been done since escoffier instituted a military-style hierarchy into the kitchen. where the only acceptable response to any question or any command is "oui, chef." this is the special forces, the s.a.s. of cooking.

and these cooks live to avoid, under any circumstances, disappointing their comrades, the hierarchy or monsieur paul. daniel worked here and so have many, many who have gone on to run their own celebrated kitchens. >> hello. [ speaking french ] >> in the '70s as a young wanna-be cook, i managed to lay hands on a french copy of paul bocuse's classic cookbook "la cuisine de marche." and i gaped with wushd wonder at the photos. struggled to translate the descriptions of dishes so fantastic i was quite sure i never, ever in my life would cook, much less eat. if i could please say how honored and grateful i am to be here. this is a dream come true. over the years, how many great chefs have come through this

restaurant and gone on to open great restaurants? >> [ speaking french ]. >> you always have a child somewhere around the world because everywhere he goes around the world. >> but bocuse too is and was a part of the system. he came up with his own cruel and terrifying masters and their faces are here. fernand point, the tower and intimidating figure behind la pyramide. out of his kitchens came such figures as alain chappelle, michel guerrar, francois biese, george perrier, the brothers troisgros, and many more. >> this was all the gang of the nouvelle cuisine. the '60s in new york.

and paul and michel gerard. >> every great chef i have ever met has nightmares of they're still a young man, they're back in a kitchen and a chef is yelling at them. who of his masters? >> the woman. >> really? >> la mer brazier, in 1946, at the ripe old age of 20, monsieur paul worked as an apprentice for brazier. >> she was such a screamer. he say you would fall on your ass she was screaming so hard. she was the first up in the morning and the last one to go to bed. she would go to the market with three cook in the back of the truck and she would put the case of green beans or something and the cook will be sitting down making the beans, not to waste time. for the rest of them. >> truly a terrifying figure.

>> truffle soup elysee. i can't tell you how many hours i stared at photos of this dish, how pathetically i tried to replicate it. never, ever did i think i'd get to try it, much less like this. sea bass with a tomato bernaise sauce baked in a meticulously crafted millefois crust. >> this is a great moment. >> you only have three camera? >> the fish is filled with a delicate lobster mousse, chervil and tarragon and wrapped carefully in pastry. notice, please, the careful and expert tableside carving and service. >> he has been making the same thing for 50 years. paul has an amazing respect for classic. >> the peasant classic. >> tony, get closer.

>> you are totally sending me every one of those pictures, by the way. wow. look at that. this style of dish goes back long before cameras but it's perfect. is there a more perfect assortment of colors and textures. >> in this one a somewhat more luxurious version. beef shanks, flank steak, ox tail, veal shanks, chicken, marrow bones, beef ribs, leeks, carrots, turnips, fennel, and parsnips. all stewed long and at low temperature, then served with its own deeply rich broth. >> think it's enough for the two of us? >> and then this. >> oh, my god. >> monsieur. ♪ >> as if the chef had been listening to my deepest, darkest secret yearnings, the legendary yeve a la royale, an almost completely disappeared, incredibly difficult preparation of wild hare. the animal is first slowly

cooked, then coated by a sauce of its own minced heart, liver and lungs that has been thickened with its own blood. after more than six hours of preparation, the hare is served as the chef prefers, whole on the bone, the rich glorious sauce finished with truffles and chartreuse. napeed over and over, until it coats like richest chocolate. absolutely the lost ark of the covenant of cuisine ancienne. >> everything great about cooking is encapsulated in this dish. >> we continue all over the world to make cuisine of paul many generations to come. forever. >> i will never eat like this again in my life. chef, merci. the meal of my life. >> today i was treated to the greatest hits of a glorious and fabled career. for the first and probably the last time, i sat next to the great man himself and daniel and i were served a menu that chefs will look back on in a hundred

years and smile at appreciably, sentimentally, respectfully. ♪ ♪searching with devotion ♪for a snack that isn't lame ♪but this... ♪takes my breath away based on 6 different criteria...

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so me and daniel were going hunting, and over lunch we mentioned that fact to paul

bocuse, who immediately insisted, insisted that if we wanted to go duck hunting, we should come by his crib, and so we find ourselves in the morning mist of le dome, a rural area about a half hour outside lyon. and sure enough, in spite of his 88 years and the fact that he's been less than well, 9:00 a.m. on the nose, there he is, sitting on top of his beloved john deere with his faithful dog festand ready to go. >> nice fresh morning. >> yeah, that's what i was thinking. that dog is happy. >> the great chef loves this place, and you can see why. ♪ >> monsieur paul can't safely hunt, but he's happy to charge around flushing birds for us. ♪ [ gunshots ]

>> beautiful. >> yeah, it is beautiful. i could do this all day. that was about as good as we're going to get. >> you got a bullet to sell, i hope. >> if you look long enough, you start hallucinating. you start hallucinating ducks where there aren't any. [ gunshots ] >> you see that one falling? >> okay, not a moment to waste. quickly, a second shot. okay. >> you got it? >> yeah. right there. >> festand! >> between me and daniel and festand the dog, we managed to actually bag a few ducks. >> good job.

festand. very good. >> easy shot. >> then it's back to the lodge, clearly bocuse's happy place, where we meet up with some hunting buddies of the great chef. >> you did a good job, no? >> success. >> yeah. it's fantastic. >> is this the hunting lodge, the weekend getaway, hang out with the guys? >> that's where he comes every day, almost. [ speaking french ] look at the picture behind. you see? >> for tonight's meal, we pluck and roast some woodcocks over an open fire.

cook up some well-aged duck and pheasant. >> they made this at the auberge paul bocuse. it's a swiss style mashed potato. >> is it predominantly butter or predominantly potato? >> is there a head in there somewhere? >> yes, of course. >> that's happiness right there. >> my father used to say -- used to say, i am a man of simple needs. and i notice that the chef. a nice fire, some birds. >> we can spend the whole week with paul, and we'll be hunting, we'll be cooking, we'll be eating, drinking, and talking. and that's beautiful. [ speaking french ] >> life is good. >> it is for me a dream to spend

this time with a legend. but i'm thrilled that bocuse too seems genuinely delighted. [ speaking french ] >> you see, it's the one behind you? >> in lyon and all across france he's monsieur paul, the great chef, a public figure, a hero, an institution, always treated with the greatest deference. here it appears he's free to enjoy the simple things with friends and local farmers who talk to him like anybody else. it's a pretty damn magical thing to see. ♪ ben...

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♪ daniel may be a three-star michelin chef, but like so many of his predecessors he's basically a farm boy at heart. he grew up milking cows and doing farm work here, on his family's spread. there is, it turns out, something of a restaurant tradition to build on. the house on his farm was once a small cafe as well, operated first by his grandparents and great-grandparents. the famous cafe boulud, it turns out, was not the first place to bear that name. >> they kept it about 80 years, 100 years, and then they closed it.

[ speaking french ] >> five minutes. >> perfect. >> no, no. >> meeting daniel's dad, one begins to understand the roots of his perfectionism. his mom, dad, wife catherine, and daniel collaborate. with some debate. on a super old-school farmhouse classic. the sort of thing that good times, bad times, a family could make with stuff that's always readily available on the farm. check this out. it's a hollowed out pumpkin layered with toasted hunks of stale country bread, which monsieur boulud sr. bakes himself. nutmeg, grated gruyere cheese, mushrooms, fresh cream from the cows, and the meat of the pumpkin.

>> and layer of bacon also. homemade pancette. very good. oh, man, it's heavy. >> voila. >> we made it. >> is he concerned the pumpkin's going to try to get out? >> daniel's dad could be something of a gaulic macgyver. you don't waste stuff around here, and he's a bit of an inventor anyway. look at this. an old washing machine turned still. >> what the hell is that? >> so underneath we have the -- but to seal it so there's no air coming in, there's cement. it's not distilled yet, just fermented. >> leftover grape solids from the wine-making process usually used to make liquor like grappa. today a different use.

if we can get it out of here. >> why did you put so much cement on it? >> he says funky. >> we'll be using this delightfully funky stuff to flavor the steam that cooks the vegetables and the sabodet sausages from mr. reynon inside the still. >> and we come back in an hour. >> at dusk we settle for dinner. >> look at that. >> there is the pumpkin. >> incredible. look at that. wow. >> the pumpkin is amazing. we also have that great sabodet sausage from monsieur reynon. >> look at that. >> cabbage and potatoes.

all steamed in the still. >> the flavor you get from the fermented grape, awesome. >> yeah, it's awesome, huh? >> good. so good. >> and if you know daniel at all, he can't really help himself. he's popping up and down, serving everybody, making sure everything's just right. and sitting here with his family in the house he grew up in, you can see where it all comes from. >> madame and monsieur, their son, he's now a gigantic international success. but when he was a young man at 14 sneezing in a field, did they ever anticipate this? no? no early indications of greatness? but there is a line, isn't there, from the farm and haute cuisine? they all reflect the region hopefully. but in the best case they're interdependent, they come from each other. in fact, who cooks in the great restaurants? farm boys, basically. that's who always cooked. my deepest thanks to your mother and your father. thank you. >> merci. next time my father make you drive the tractor.

[ bells tolling ] ♪ >> we go up this beautiful mountain. this incredible town. it goes back to the 12th century. people trudge up the hill to the beautiful church to take the walk that michael corleone took. now and forever more it will be sort of "the godfather" theme park, where they're playing "the godfather" theme over and over. >> i think most thoughtful sicilians are disgusted by this. ♪ >> imagine that waking uever